@ 16:38 That was hardest part of this repair. Also, prepare for that antifreeze shower, once that drain cap was removed coolant blasted everywhere. Other than that? Solid video Thanks for the help!
Definitely great information in this video, right now I'm in the process of replacing my timing belt on 2013 pilot touring and my belt between the two cams is a teeth short while all the marks are aligned to bad we didn't get to see how you got your belt to fit correctly I'm a bit stuck with my right now..
Used this video to do the same job on a 2019 pilot. Very similar. One tip i read somewhere else was to mark the pulleys/belt with a paint marker and count the teeth once removed and transfer the marks to new belt. Then you can double check the timing marks and the paint marks for accuracy. It helped me to quickly trouble shoot all my paint markings matching but my rear camshaft being slightly off. Realised while fitting the belt it turned slightly. I simply pulled the belt by hand where the tensioner is and it pulled the cam right back to where it should have been. Otherwise i would have been chasing my tail and potentially been off by 1 tooth.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching the internet for a few hours and your video is the best I found. I have 2004 Honda Pilot Ex with 270k. It has been a family car for 16 years and I love it so much. The problem I have now is that it cranks but it does not start. I was driving it yesterday when this happened, and I think the problem maybe the timing belt. I say so because it happened to me before about 2 years ago, and I don't understand why I keep having this timing belt issue. Since I work from home, I really don't need a car that much and I want to keep it for about a year or so and then buy a good car. So I wonder it is worth fixing it. I was lucky last time because It didn't damage the engine. But I am not sure if engine is okay this time.
very good video, quick question do i have to put the transmission gear on N or D ? before i start replacing the timing belt or it doesn't matter ?, thanks
Just a heads up. You better have a catch can the size of you engine bay because it sprays past the opening and spills out over every inch of the plastic cover.
ADDITIONAL NOTES: 1) Be prepared to buy the heavy crankshaft 19mm impact socket for the crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt. I had to use a 1500ft-lb pneumatic impact with the specialty socket, and at first it still didn't work because I didn't have a big enough air compressor (pancake compressor). You need probably a 3 to 5 gallon air tank at 120 to 150 psi, I only needed 90psi going to the gun though. 2) The harmonic balancer specialty tool is still needed for reassembly. This can be bought/ borrowed from an auto parts store. 3) You'll have to remove the plastic under the front of the car, and from the passenger side wheel well. I regret not removing both pieces from the passenger side for better access. 4) The motor mount shown in the video on the 2015 year is impossible to remove without removing the black motor mount that is attached directly to the frame. Removing this gives access to the 3rd bolt that's recessed back in the frame attachment. The 2015 doesn't have near the room to work with that the model shown in the video has. Removing the other motor mount doesn't add much time, but trying to attempt this step without removing it adds a ton of time. 5) A lot of coolant comes out when you remove the water pump, even after draining the radiator, be prepared for it, unlike me. The video doesn't show this very well.
If it was me I would go with Honda parts. Guy on Piloteers forum put a gates kit in the tensioner failed after 22k miles the valves got bent cost him $4500 in major engine damage repair. Honda dealer said they seen several of these aftermarket kits fail usually the tensioner. The gates belt is good, but the issue is Honda tensioner is a critical part due to the engine being an interference designed engine meaning if the cams get out of time valves can hit the pistons not worth saving a few bucks just go with Honda OEM parts.
Concise to the point, all viewing angles are visible and clear. Thankyou for taking time in preparing this educational video. I do not need to do the (Honda Odyssey) timing belt but really enjoy watch your video. Thank you very much! My curiosity, why did the cam dots did not align when the timing was reinstalled? We have checked that before the belt was taken off.
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VERY NICE. Made the job much easier. Turning the crank back 1/2 tooth was a great idea. just that tip was worth the whole video.
Great video! I appreciate you taking the time to record and post this.
@ 16:38 That was hardest part of this repair. Also, prepare for that antifreeze shower, once that drain cap was removed coolant blasted everywhere. Other than that? Solid video Thanks for the help!
+@jjerdmann Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Definitely great information in this video, right now I'm in the process of replacing my timing belt on 2013 pilot touring and my belt between the two cams is a teeth short while all the marks are aligned to bad we didn't get to see how you got your belt to fit correctly I'm a bit stuck with my right now..
Used this video to do the same job on a 2019 pilot. Very similar. One tip i read somewhere else was to mark the pulleys/belt with a paint marker and count the teeth once removed and transfer the marks to new belt. Then you can double check the timing marks and the paint marks for accuracy. It helped me to quickly trouble shoot all my paint markings matching but my rear camshaft being slightly off. Realised while fitting the belt it turned slightly. I simply pulled the belt by hand where the tensioner is and it pulled the cam right back to where it should have been. Otherwise i would have been chasing my tail and potentially been off by 1 tooth.
+@walkinyourownshoes Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching the internet for a few hours and your video is the best I found. I have 2004 Honda Pilot Ex with 270k. It has been a family car for 16 years and I love it so much. The problem I have now is that it cranks but it does not start. I was driving it yesterday when this happened, and I think the problem maybe the timing belt. I say so because it happened to me before about 2 years ago, and I don't understand why I keep having this timing belt issue. Since I work from home, I really don't need a car that much and I want to keep it for about a year or so and then buy a good car. So I wonder it is worth fixing it. I was lucky last time because It didn't damage the engine. But I am not sure if engine is okay this time.
very good video, quick question do i have to put the transmission gear on N or D ? before i start replacing the timing belt or it doesn't matter ?, thanks
Very thorough video. If I did that job, I would end up with a whole bunch of extra bolts not knowing where they go. 😂
Honda repair manual says to tighten the idler pulley after the belt is in place, confused as to why you tightened before the belt was in place
Great video! Gives all details while performing repairs. Helped tremendously.
Just a heads up. You better have a catch can the size of you engine bay because it sprays past the opening and spills out over every inch of the plastic cover.
ADDITIONAL NOTES:
1) Be prepared to buy the heavy crankshaft 19mm impact socket for the crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt. I had to use a 1500ft-lb pneumatic impact with the specialty socket, and at first it still didn't work because I didn't have a big enough air compressor (pancake compressor). You need probably a 3 to 5 gallon air tank at 120 to 150 psi, I only needed 90psi going to the gun though.
2) The harmonic balancer specialty tool is still needed for reassembly. This can be bought/ borrowed from an auto parts store.
3) You'll have to remove the plastic under the front of the car, and from the passenger side wheel well. I regret not removing both pieces from the passenger side for better access.
4) The motor mount shown in the video on the 2015 year is impossible to remove without removing the black motor mount that is attached directly to the frame. Removing this gives access to the 3rd bolt that's recessed back in the frame attachment. The 2015 doesn't have near the room to work with that the model shown in the video has. Removing the other motor mount doesn't add much time, but trying to attempt this step without removing it adds a ton of time.
5) A lot of coolant comes out when you remove the water pump, even after draining the radiator, be prepared for it, unlike me. The video doesn't show this very well.
Perfect video detailed without all the extra talking
If it was me I would go with Honda parts. Guy on Piloteers forum put a gates kit in the tensioner failed after 22k miles the valves got bent cost him $4500 in major engine damage repair. Honda dealer said they seen several of these aftermarket kits fail usually the tensioner. The gates belt is good, but the issue is Honda tensioner is a critical part due to the engine being an interference designed engine meaning if the cams get out of time valves can hit the pistons not worth saving a few bucks just go with Honda OEM parts.
Nice 👍 job people don’t appreciate a good job done
Thanks for your video
Awesome video!!!
Great job
Thanks so much for sharing this
Concise to the point, all viewing angles are visible and clear. Thankyou for taking time in preparing this educational video. I do not need to do the (Honda Odyssey) timing belt but really enjoy watch your video. Thank you very much!
My curiosity, why did the cam dots did not align when the timing was reinstalled? We have checked that before the belt was taken off.
Sir, what type of oil is for the hydraulic pump? Thanks.
Sure would've been nice to see the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys
Need to go with the Aisin kits
I dont see any torque setting after 31 min into video for mount bracket bolts, cam covers etc. Can you please put those here or in description thanks
Perfect 👍
34 min: ...apply a little grease to the threads on your harmonic balancer bolt... maybe not a good idea if you want that bolt to stay in?
2013 doesnt need the shim behind the idler correct?
Thinking about taking this job but Honda with those drive belt tensioners have a horrific habit of breaking the nut head off that releases the tension
So what if I can’t get the belt off