Great video! Here’s a trick I used for making sure the timing belt was on properly (with no slack). Before I removed the old belt, I used a white marking pen to mark a belt tooth and the corresponding notch on the cog at all three cog locations (both cams and the crank). I used the old timing belt after removal to mark the new timing belt at the exact three locations. The old and new timing belt teeth should be spaced exactly the same so I made sure the marks on the new belt perfectly match the marks on the old belt. I also found it very helpful to very slightly rotate the cam shaft clockwise a few degrees to get the belt on the exact location marked and the teeth properly seated in the cog. I then rotated the cam back (counter clockwise) a few degrees to make it taut. Make sure the marks on the cam and two crank cogs are properly aligned. This worked great for me and gave me the confidence to start the engine knowing the belt was on correctly (but I was sweating a little...)
Useful tip about rotating the cam, just a smidge to get the belt on and making it taut. otherwise it’s almost impossible, pulling it by hand to get it on the right mark.
I’m planning to do same thing tomorrow and correct me if I’m wrong but if I put marks on the old belt in 3 locations and transfer them to a new belt than it doesn’t have to be done with engine in a cylinder 1 top position
@@tomgrimmer947 great tip but be careful about turning the cam much as it can jump forward without notice causing potential injury and will require getting the timing marks set up correctly again.
Just did mine - 2014 odyssey. Thank you. Watched the video dozens of times. Had to look up some other stuff also . Work done over 6 days . Total of approximately 9 hours? Car started !!! - my steering pump had 3 bolts holding it on?- I’d take it out completely from the beginning. - I used nail polish transfer marks from old belt to new one- guaranteed the timing for myself. - routed belt exactly as you show- the only way I could get it to sit correctly on rear cam gear was to use a breaker bar and turn the cam clockwise 1-2 degrees, seat the belt and turn back to original position. - my Makita impact couldn’t remove the crank nut- used the breaker bar starter technique- worked ( luckily) Be slow and methodical.
Thank you so much. This is a very good detailed to the point type of video and Im so appreciative of that as I am going to attempt this procedure for the first time ever. If I would’ve told my 18 year old self that I would be doing all these car repairs when I am 48 years old, I would’ve never believed myself. 😂 my God I’ve learned so much in the last 10 years. Thanks to UA-cam and guys like you. Pray for me lol. God bless you.
Ha! It’s March 2024 and here I am with a GREAT van but leaky pump gasket and BROKE. My Honda guy wanted $1100. Nope. I’m 59 and tired of turning wrenches, but like you, here I am….. Pump, belt kit with pulleys for $67 and $10 for a motor mount. Shop is going to bust and retighten the crank bolt the day I do it so hopefully that tough part will work out easier for me. I now have a place to do it with back up should it all go wrong. $100 and a days labor? I gotta do what I gotta do. Cant believe at 59 I’m about to bust the crap out of my knuckles and arms.
Just wanted to give a shout out, I just completed the timing belt swap on my 2017 Odyssey last night, had it back and running for this afternoons errands. Thank you very much for your time and advice!!!!
Very good how to/tutorial. Very helpful. Thanks for this video. Saved me $1700 over taking it to the dealer. Dealer cost was $2400 for total timing belt, water pump and pulleys. My material cost was $700 but I also changed on the passenger side motor mount while I had it loose. Good thing because the rubber in the mount was toast. Again, very clean efficient how to video.
Took me 10 hours over two days and I never did one before, but I took my time and double checked everything. Putting the timing belt on was easy, getting to it was another story, a lot of stuff to remove. With the videos on UA-cam anyone with mechanic ability can pull this job off and save mega bucks, with Asian Timing belt kit same as OEM Honda from Rock Auto and two gallons of blue coolant from Walmart I am under $200.00 for everything. 14 Odyssey had 195,000 miles on it and the timing belt was never done before, I just bought it.
Excellent work. I’ve gotten in the habit of learning & servicing all my cars myself (Honda, Toyota & Subaru), currently rebuilding a Subaru motor. Save money and make sure you did everything correctly following the FSM. I’m not a mechanic but once you learn, the satisfaction you get out of saving money and fixing/maintaining your own cars is awesome.
Awesome video, you have the patience of a saint, as for me I thought about doing it but now I’m letting someone else endure the torture for 1200 bucks, but your amazing, thanks for sharing
I just want to say thank you for this video. I had all data, and some other youtube vids, but this is the one that was most helpful. Just finished changing my timing belt on my 2011 odyssey.. It was a good challenge and everything turned out well. My rear cam slipped when putting on the belt and when I went to check it, it was out of alignment. I learned that I can just rotate it back, but it's slipper, like on a spring. I got it back and the belt when on well. Turned the crank twice like you said and all was lined up. I'm very thankful for you putting up this video. It was concise in just the best way.
Great video! I found a way to remove that stingy piece without removing the computer! I went from underneath and used a “serpentine belt remover tool”! It’s super slim and let’s you fit a 14mm socket right in there. It doesn’t ratchet, but once you get it loose enough you can unscrew by hand with the socket. Hope this helps someone!
Yep, don't need to remove the computer. I actually used a regular 3/8" drive ratchet to break it loose and finished by hand. It won't come all the way out, but free from the block. You can get the bracket out with the bolt hanging in it.
Wow. U really make this job look easy. I'm a worker on this field. I congratulate u for all your knowledge and teaching experience. God bless you my friend 🙏
Nice Video. One thing I would add. You should fill the cooling system and check the water pump for leaks before continuing with the belt replacement. IF you don't and it has a leak you'll be tearing it down again to fix it.
Thanks for the video. Took me about four days (1/2 day each day) to tackle this job on my 16 Odyssey. Took a little while, since I had to replace the passenger side motor mount. Was a pain to remove. Also, spent a whole evening too making sure all the reference marks lined up. If I had to do it again, probably will have it done in a day.
Great video I just bought a 2015 Odyssey everything has been done by the Honda dealer in all the paperwork is there but it's due for a new timing belt and so of course I'm 70 for years old and I've been a mechanic nearly all my life and this stuff is complicated and I've done a lot of time and build jobs on a lot of other cars and corrected a few that that ran but ran very bad and recheck all the timing marks and find out that the tooth off my problem no problem right now is I'm getting I get sore real easy and but I'll get this done I'll wait I'll wait till the weekend and my shop and I'll have everything cleared out of my way have all my tools gathered up and get that thing done great video I once was a aircraft instructor avionics though not not to mechanical bright video on definitely need it I will be looking at it again a couple of times
@@larryward1082 Glad this video is helpful! I also have a downloadable repair guide that you can reference in the video description. If you have any questions during your repair feel free to post them here 👍
Thank God I’m not the one who might have to do it, but this is a great video with plenty of helpful details. I sent the link to my Son in case he and his boss decide he needs to do it himself on the road on their company service van.
Thanks for the great video. I'm doing my timing belt right now and I successfully removed the motor mount without taking out the computer etc... Thing are looking promessing. Although the crankshaft bolt was a 2 hrs pain in the but...... 😂
Liked and subbed!! i remember taking 12 hrs or so to do my 2000 accord v6 a few years back (massively double checking and even did the cam seals) and this looks similar if not easier. I still have the accord and look forward in a couple of years to doing my ody. Totally appreciate ur video!!
Great video!! Super helpful. There is a lot of discussion online, and the manual photos you show also indicate what bolts should be replaced. Apparently they may actually be TTY or have some other characteristics that justify replacement. Might be helpful to cover that.
I am using the Asian timing belt kit for my 2016 also. My mechanic said it's the best kit. He always uses these kits for the Hondas he works on at his shop.
That is so simple. I guess once you do one you can do all. Last one I did was 2013 Ford flex, I know that's chains but it's literally almost an identical process. Thanks for the video man, it's definitely helps not having to look for extra stuff you didn't know you needed to remove.
Great video. A note, I did see another video where the tech lifted the engine a bit and was able to get that hard bolt on the motor mount out without having to pull the ECM and the other side of the motor mount. FYI.
Whatever you do, do not make the mistake I made, and try to take the bolt from the tensioner pulley completely out! It does not need to come out! You just need to push it to release the belt. I thought it needed to come out and I ended up breaking mine.
Local quote for this also on a 2013 was $1200. As these parts wear out, it's the hydrolic tensioner that starts to weaken, and the pulleys start making some grinding "marbles" sounds. If you hear some squealing or gritty marbles deep in the engine, better get the stuff replaced.
Yes, your exactly right. Once the hydraulic tensioner start leaking...time to replace belt, tensioner, water pump, also change the power steering belt while you already have it loose too!
My impact gun hits 375 lb ft, and I had that exact socket. I sat there and rattled it for over 60 seconds several times until I gave up. My friend came over with a DeWalt and busted it off in 3 seconds.
Thanks for convincing not to get a used honda Odyssey, lol. Almost every used odyssey, with the exception of one I had interest in, didn't have the timing belt and water pump serviced. I wanted to see if it was easy enough for me to do it myself.
Hey thanks! Glad this video is helpful. The manual I use is part of a professional subscription from Identifix. But you can go to the Honda website and purchase a "pass" to access all the OEM information for your vehicle for around $20 for a few days. It's the best for the price if you're only working on one vehicle every so often.
Does it make sense to replace the thermostat during this service as well? I know it's not really in the same location, but if most of the coolant is already drained it might be a good time. Same with the serpentine belt. Replace that, since it's already off?
First want to say thanks for making an awesome video, very informative love the diagrams. I wanted to ask for a parts list, i look for one in your description but couldn't find any. Would like to now the parts used and the part #'s if possible, please and thanks in advance.
Hey Eliel, thanks for the comment. The parts are from the local parts store. It's the timing belt water pump kit. It should come with everything you need to do the complete job (belt, tensioner, pump etc.) 👍
You removed the power steering pump to better access the bracket. Would this require a new gasket when replaced or did you only remove the pump from its position?
@@Wolfhound. Removing the spark plugs will help the engine turn easier but the cam rotating is due to valve spring pressure and not cylinder compression. Hopefully that helps 👍
Finished up doing this job, wasn't terrible but I have a question. I believe I may of accidentally read the wrong specs and overtorqued the hydraulic tensioner bolts. The van runs well, but I don't have peace of mind on the bolts. Would I be able to easily replace the tensioner bolts without removing everything again?
@@blakebauer2722 If you can't see the bolts you will need to remove the lower timing cover again. I think you can do that without removing everything. You will need to remove the crank pulley though. Do you remember what you torqued them to?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I'm pretty sure they are visible outside of the timing cover. I would guess they were between 12 and 15lbs tops? I do remember backing off the torque wrench to see what they were at (thinking 19 was what it needed to be - accidentally looked at the tensioner pulley spec apparently) and it seemed to be in that range.
@@blakebauer2722 If you can access the bolts you can back one off while the other is still tight and re torque it then back the other off and re torque it. You should be good to go 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive so do you think there's reason for concern at the current torque? Also when removing the bolt, won't the tensioner push up or down with just one bolt in? Just hoping not to open a can of worms here. At that point I'd need to decompress and repin the tensioner, would I need to be concerned about TDC or timing being off at that point? My dealer had to order in those bolts because they didn't have them in stock. Do you think I'd be able to find a suitable replacement at like a Fastenal or something?
@@donovanhays I guess that's standard from Honda dealership if it includes the whole package. My local independent garage quoted me $700 with aftermarket parts, though. So you have a choice.
I’m currently doing a timing belt on an odyssey and had lined up the cam markings to the marking on the plastic cover like you did, but now that I’m putting the new belt on I realized the crank sprocket is slightly to the left of the pointer and my belt isn’t going on easy, plus all the tension is on the left side not on the right. Is it safe to turn the crank sprocket with the belt off to line it up with the pointer?
Do you advise using the bleed screw on the block to remove all the old coolant? and using it for bleeding procedure? or just the radiator to drain and bleed?
You will lose most of the coolant when you remove the water pump. There's not much left in the engine. If you want a little more coolant exchanged you can drain the radiator one more time after you've driven it for a little bit.
How much torque will that crank bolt take? I got the beefy socket but can't get it off with a 650 ft-lb impact. I can borrow a compressed air impact rated at 1,000, but I really don't want to shear that thing.
They are pretty tight! Having the thicker socket definitely helps with an impact. I imagine 650 should work. The Earthquake XT from Harbor Freight says it's 1,000. That's usually what I use for Hondas.
Great video. Doing mine now. Do you put anything on the water pump o ring or just install dry. Also same question about thread sealing any of the bolts. My balancer bolt was very tight. Looked like it had locktite in it. Took a long cheater bar. Again, really good video. Thank You!!!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thank You for the response and again for the great video. The information about removing the Jack from under the engine was priceless and really helped me. Nobody else mentioned that. Awesome job.
There aren't any symptoms that clue you into replacing the timing belt. This is a mileage based maintenance item every 100k. I feel your pain, it is a pricey service for sure but it beats needing to possibly replace the engine if it brakes.
The pin is the tensioner lock. It comes preloaded on the new tensioner. Keep the pin in until you are ready to deploy the tensioner then pull the pin out 👍
@@alfredovelazquez822 If the timing marks are lined before removing the belt the cam sprockets should stay in place. If one decides to rotate on you that's ok just turn it back into place 👍
@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for the quick response. So I assume if this happens, no valves will be damaged, and I would just re align the sprocket back into place. Thanks again. This gives reassurance on performing this on my Odyssey.
As a guy who has absolutely no power tools except for a drill that is only useful for drilling wood or screwing in screws in wood, is the impact absolutely necessary? Could I just use an long extension and breaker bar to get the crank pulley loose? Thanks for the video.
Short answer: yes. Many have tried and few have succeeded getting Honda crank bolts off with a breaker bar much less a breaker bar + extension. If you're considering this job as DIY, investing in proper tools will make life much easier.
Thanks for the vid but it seems the sequence is not right, I can't remove the bottom cover because the tensioner is in the way. I tried to follow this instruction, the same exact one in the manual. how were you able to remove the bottom cover without removing the tensioner first?
When he took the plug out of the timing cover I could have swore somebody hollered my name in the background I had to rewind and watch it again if you listen closely it sounds like he says ..."Darren".. 😂😂
The engine still has the front mount, the rear mount and the transmission mount holding it in place. The engine will drop slightly when you lower the jack but this is perfectly fine. Raise the engine back up to reinstall the right side engine mount 👍. If you need to leave it overnight to finish the next day I would put the jack back under it.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thank you for the answer, upon doing the TB i also notes small cracking in the rubber mount, its not torn, but has crackes, do you advise to swap it as well or might still be ok?
@@RobertoMartinez-gl6ii Nice! Since recording this video I've gotten the thicker socket and it's amazing how much more gusto it provides. Breaking these bolts loose by hand is no joke!
Unfortunately I can't share the documents. You would need to purchase a shop manual. Alldata diy has a yearly subscription that's very reasonably priced for what you get.
Big time. I don't know if the Ody is a "zero clearance" engine, but if it is - AND the timing belt breaks - the piston will smash into the valves and obliterate your entire engine. (OK, you might save your alternator, some bolts and brackets, but it'll be a total train wreck nevertheless.) I once got lucky when my timing belt broke about 12K after it was SUPPOSED to be replaced. Turned out the vehicle I was driving then wasn't a zero-clearance engine. Might have been an 85 Camry or something. But the lesson was this: when they say change it, then CHANGE IT. Because they'll laugh all the way to the bank when you have to drop $5K+ on a new engine if you neglected to change the timing belt when the manual says to. But I hear you. This procedure is a PITA.
Good question. Yes, supporting the engine with a jack helps the bolts come out straighter. It also keeps the engine from dropping too hard on the other mounts. You can leave the jack there for the rest of the repair if you'd like. I remove the jack because it gets in the way of your catch pan when you pull the water pump off. A lot of coolant will spill out! But leaving it under or taking it out is up to you 👍
did you change the front main seal? Is it a good idea to do that with this job or not? is this a common area for an oil leak for odysseys. I have a 2011 odyssey touring.
Good question. Typically I don't if it's the first service at 100k unless it's showing signs of failure. At the next service around 200k I would recommend it. The Honda 3.5 is a really good engine and personally I haven't seen that oil seal fail at 100k. Maybe other mechanics have? That said once you're in there it's only a few more steps to pull the old seal and put in a new one.
Thanks. Do you have any tips or tricks on getting that crank pulley bolt torqued to spec.? For example, how to position it so as to get good leverage. I’ll be using jack and jack stands also.
@@MrRockman890 the best way to get a proper torque is to use the special holding tool. Jack the vehicle up on that side as much as possible to get room for a breaker bar. You can mark the crank bolt relative to the pulley to tighten it up however many degrees more it says. These suckers are TIGHT! If you need anything else let me know 👍
I'm was trying to do the timing belt change on a 2013 Honda Odyssey 3.5. After getting all the covers and parts removed, I mistakenly pulled the key that connects the lower shaft to the lower timing belt sprocket. Then I proceeded to try and align the tabs for TDC but realized that the timing belt wasn't moving because I removed the key. I was moving the lower drive shaft separately from the upper camshafts Have I ruined my engine? I can't remember how many rotations I made to mis align the lower drive shaft and upper cam shafts. This photo was taken after I used an adjustable wrench to align the shaft and sprocket. A new engine is $3k about what the car is worth. I'm feeling sick to my stomach now.
You should be ok. You can slowly bring the crankshaft to 45* before TDC and you should be ok to move the cams independently to get them lined up then move the crank to full TDC. If you feel any binding or feel like the cam or crank is getting stuck don't force it. Let me know how it goes 👍
No, at the very least you can just replace the belt and tensioner. But you're already 95% of the way there so replacing the water pump and timing belt pulleys will save you a ton of labor down the road.
Great video! Here’s a trick I used for making sure the timing belt was on properly (with no slack). Before I removed the old belt, I used a white marking pen to mark a belt tooth and the corresponding notch on the cog at all three cog locations (both cams and the crank). I used the old timing belt after removal to mark the new timing belt at the exact three locations. The old and new timing belt teeth should be spaced exactly the same so I made sure the marks on the new belt perfectly match the marks on the old belt. I also found it very helpful to very slightly rotate the cam shaft clockwise a few degrees to get the belt on the exact location marked and the teeth properly seated in the cog. I then rotated the cam back (counter clockwise) a few degrees to make it taut. Make sure the marks on the cam and two crank cogs are properly aligned. This worked great for me and gave me the confidence to start the engine knowing the belt was on correctly (but I was sweating a little...)
Works till someone else had it off a tooth and you end up doing the same
Useful tip about rotating the cam, just a smidge to get the belt on and making it taut. otherwise it’s almost impossible, pulling it by hand to get it on the right mark.
I’m planning to do same thing tomorrow and correct me if I’m wrong but if I put marks on the old belt in 3 locations and transfer them to a new belt than it doesn’t have to be done with engine in a cylinder 1 top position
@@tomgrimmer947 great tip but be careful about turning the cam much as it can jump forward without notice causing potential injury and will require getting the timing marks set up correctly again.
Just did mine - 2014 odyssey. Thank you. Watched the video dozens of times. Had to look up some other stuff also . Work done over 6 days . Total of approximately 9 hours? Car started !!!
- my steering pump had 3 bolts holding it on?- I’d take it out completely from the beginning.
- I used nail polish transfer marks from old belt to new one- guaranteed the timing for myself.
- routed belt exactly as you show- the only way I could get it to sit correctly on rear cam gear was to use a breaker bar and turn the cam clockwise 1-2 degrees, seat the belt and turn back to original position.
- my Makita impact couldn’t remove the crank nut- used the breaker bar starter technique- worked ( luckily)
Be slow and methodical.
2015 also has three bolts for PS pump
Thank you so much. This is a very good detailed to the point type of video and Im so appreciative of that as I am going to attempt this procedure for the first time ever. If I would’ve told my 18 year old self that I would be doing all these car repairs when I am 48 years old, I would’ve never believed myself. 😂 my God I’ve learned so much in the last 10 years. Thanks to UA-cam and guys like you. Pray for me lol. God bless you.
If you have any questions during the repair feel free to post in the comments. You got this 👊
Ha!
It’s March 2024 and here I am with a GREAT van but leaky pump gasket and BROKE.
My Honda guy wanted $1100. Nope.
I’m 59 and tired of turning wrenches, but like you, here I am…..
Pump, belt kit with pulleys for $67 and $10 for a motor mount. Shop is going to bust and retighten the crank bolt the day I do it so hopefully that tough part will work out easier for me.
I now have a place to do it with back up should it all go wrong. $100 and a days labor? I gotta do what I gotta do.
Cant believe at 59 I’m about to bust the crap out of my knuckles and arms.
Just wanted to give a shout out, I just completed the timing belt swap on my 2017 Odyssey last night, had it back and running for this afternoons errands. Thank you very much for your time and advice!!!!
Very good how to/tutorial. Very helpful. Thanks for this video. Saved me $1700 over taking it to the dealer. Dealer cost was $2400 for total timing belt, water pump and pulleys. My material cost was $700 but I also changed on the passenger side motor mount while I had it loose. Good thing because the rubber in the mount was toast. Again, very clean efficient how to video.
@@scotthall3120 Glad this was helpful 👍
Took me 10 hours over two days and I never did one before, but I took my time and double checked everything. Putting the timing belt on was easy, getting to it was another story, a lot of stuff to remove. With the videos on UA-cam anyone with mechanic ability can pull this job off and save mega bucks, with Asian Timing belt kit same as OEM Honda from Rock Auto and two gallons of blue coolant from Walmart I am under $200.00 for everything. 14 Odyssey had 195,000 miles on it and the timing belt was never done before, I just bought it.
What was the condition of the belt?
What was the condition of the belt??
This is much more complicated that I thought it would be
Excellent video, this covers everything important without wasting time on unnecessary stuff. Thank you.
Best I’ve seen. Thanks and keep up the good work. Helping us common folk save thousands.
Excellent work. I’ve gotten in the habit of learning & servicing all my cars myself (Honda, Toyota & Subaru), currently rebuilding a Subaru motor. Save money and make sure you did everything correctly following the FSM. I’m not a mechanic but once you learn, the satisfaction you get out of saving money and fixing/maintaining your own cars is awesome.
Awesome video, you have the patience of a saint, as for me I thought about doing it but now I’m letting someone else endure the torture for 1200 bucks, but your amazing, thanks for sharing
I just want to say thank you for this video. I had all data, and some other youtube vids, but this is the one that was most helpful. Just finished changing my timing belt on my 2011 odyssey.. It was a good challenge and everything turned out well. My rear cam slipped when putting on the belt and when I went to check it, it was out of alignment. I learned that I can just rotate it back, but it's slipper, like on a spring. I got it back and the belt when on well. Turned the crank twice like you said and all was lined up. I'm very thankful for you putting up this video. It was concise in just the best way.
Awesome Joseph! This is a big task, glad you got it 👊
Great video! I found a way to remove that stingy piece without removing the computer! I went from underneath and used a “serpentine belt remover tool”! It’s super slim and let’s you fit a 14mm socket right in there. It doesn’t ratchet, but once you get it loose enough you can unscrew by hand with the socket. Hope this helps someone!
Yep, don't need to remove the computer. I actually used a regular 3/8" drive ratchet to break it loose and finished by hand. It won't come all the way out, but free from the block. You can get the bracket out with the bolt hanging in it.
Wow. U really make this job look easy. I'm a worker on this field. I congratulate u for all your knowledge and teaching experience. God bless you my friend 🙏
Nice Video. One thing I would add. You should fill the cooling system and check the water pump for leaks before continuing with the belt replacement. IF you don't and it has a leak you'll be tearing it down again to fix it.
Thanks for the video. Took me about four days (1/2 day each day) to tackle this job on my 16 Odyssey. Took a little while, since I had to replace the passenger side motor mount. Was a pain to remove. Also, spent a whole evening too making sure all the reference marks lined up. If I had to do it again, probably will have it done in a day.
Great video I just bought a 2015 Odyssey everything has been done by the Honda dealer in all the paperwork is there but it's due for a new timing belt and so of course I'm 70 for years old and I've been a mechanic nearly all my life and this stuff is complicated and I've done a lot of time and build jobs on a lot of other cars and corrected a few that that ran but ran very bad and recheck all the timing marks and find out that the tooth off my problem no problem right now is I'm getting I get sore real easy and but I'll get this done I'll wait I'll wait till the weekend and my shop and I'll have everything cleared out of my way have all my tools gathered up and get that thing done great video I once was a aircraft instructor avionics though not not to mechanical bright video on definitely need it I will be looking at it again a couple of times
@@larryward1082 Glad this video is helpful! I also have a downloadable repair guide that you can reference in the video description. If you have any questions during your repair feel free to post them here 👍
Thank God I’m not the one who might have to do it, but this is a great video with plenty of helpful details. I sent the link to my Son in case he and his boss decide he needs to do it himself on the road on their company service van.
Thanks for the great video. I'm doing my timing belt right now and I successfully removed the motor mount without taking out the computer etc... Thing are looking promessing. Although the crankshaft bolt was a 2 hrs pain in the but...... 😂
They make a really thick walled 19 mm socket designed to remove the Honda crankshaft bolt . With it bolt comes right out.
Liked and subbed!! i remember taking 12 hrs or so to do my 2000 accord v6 a few years back (massively double checking and even did the cam seals) and this looks similar if not easier. I still have the accord and look forward in a couple of years to doing my ody. Totally appreciate ur video!!
Great video!! Super helpful. There is a lot of discussion online, and the manual photos you show also indicate what bolts should be replaced. Apparently they may actually be TTY or have some other characteristics that justify replacement. Might be helpful to cover that.
I am using the Asian timing belt kit for my 2016 also. My mechanic said it's the best kit. He always uses these kits for the Hondas he works on at his shop.
What is an Asian timing belt? Do you man it’s a clone part made in China -not by Honda-?
Outstanding video, all information needed in a concise presentation!!!!!
That is so simple. I guess once you do one you can do all. Last one I did was 2013 Ford flex, I know that's chains but it's literally almost an identical process. Thanks for the video man, it's definitely helps not having to look for extra stuff you didn't know you needed to remove.
Great video. A note, I did see another video where the tech lifted the engine a bit and was able to get that hard bolt on the motor mount out without having to pull the ECM and the other side of the motor mount. FYI.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Awesome!! I always dread this maintenance but this video is a great help!
Whatever you do, do not make the mistake I made, and try to take the bolt from the tensioner pulley completely out! It does not need to come out! You just need to push it to release the belt. I thought it needed to come out and I ended up breaking mine.
Ingersoll rand 7150 1/2 " impact gets em everytime, yeah the crankshaft pulley bolt!!
Thank you so much! Your video helped me a lot with my 2017 Honda Odyssey
You're welcome! Glad this was helpful 👍
dude you are incredible...thx for the walkthru
I like your video you show the diagram for torque spec good job
Local quote for this also on a 2013 was $1200.
As these parts wear out, it's the hydrolic tensioner that starts to weaken, and the pulleys start making some grinding "marbles" sounds. If you hear some squealing or gritty marbles deep in the engine, better get the stuff replaced.
Yes, your exactly right. Once the hydraulic tensioner start leaking...time to replace belt, tensioner, water pump, also change the power steering belt while you already have it loose too!
Very clear and step by step . Very nice video and teacher !!👍
Hey, thanks for the encouragement 👍 glad this video was helpful.
The crankshaft bolt comes off in 2 seconds with a 1/2" impact and Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda
My impact gun hits 375 lb ft, and I had that exact socket. I sat there and rattled it for over 60 seconds several times until I gave up. My friend came over with a DeWalt and busted it off in 3 seconds.
Great job! video was a lot of help for me on getting the job done!
Thanks for convincing not to get a used honda Odyssey, lol. Almost every used odyssey, with the exception of one I had interest in, didn't have the timing belt and water pump serviced. I wanted to see if it was easy enough for me to do it myself.
Good video. You don't need crank pulley to rotate the crank.
Excellent tutorial. Big thanks.
Doesn't the 100k mile service also require the valve lash to be adjusted? Do you have a video of that process?
Great video lots of help for a newer tech
This is the best video yet on this honda timing belt replacement. Can I ask what program are you using for all the diagrams?
Awesome. this video is really helpful for me. Could you let me know where I can find the service manual you showed in the video.
Hey thanks! Glad this video is helpful. The manual I use is part of a professional subscription from Identifix. But you can go to the Honda website and purchase a "pass" to access all the OEM information for your vehicle for around $20 for a few days. It's the best for the price if you're only working on one vehicle every so often.
Excellent video. Thanks
Does it make sense to replace the thermostat during this service as well? I know it's not really in the same location, but if most of the coolant is already drained it might be a good time. Same with the serpentine belt. Replace that, since it's already off?
Hi this is great video. Do you have the torque values for 2007 Honda Odyssey by any chance? Thanks.
while you have this area open is there other things you can check or replace?
First want to say thanks for making an awesome video, very informative love the diagrams. I wanted to ask for a parts list, i look for one in your description but couldn't find any. Would like to now the parts used and the part #'s if possible, please and thanks in advance.
Hey Eliel, thanks for the comment. The parts are from the local parts store. It's the timing belt water pump kit. It should come with everything you need to do the complete job (belt, tensioner, pump etc.) 👍
Thank you!! Liked and subbed!!
Thank you for your work!
Your welcome!
You removed the power steering pump to better access the bracket. Would this require a new gasket when replaced or did you only remove the pump from its position?
Do you have any videos on how to replace the o-rings on the power steering lines for a 2015 Honda Odyssey?
would it be wise to remove spark plugs to make it easier to torn engine over and also to avoid compression turning the cam while the belt is off ?
@@Wolfhound. Removing the spark plugs will help the engine turn easier but the cam rotating is due to valve spring pressure and not cylinder compression. Hopefully that helps 👍
Finished up doing this job, wasn't terrible but I have a question. I believe I may of accidentally read the wrong specs and overtorqued the hydraulic tensioner bolts. The van runs well, but I don't have peace of mind on the bolts. Would I be able to easily replace the tensioner bolts without removing everything again?
@@blakebauer2722 If you can't see the bolts you will need to remove the lower timing cover again. I think you can do that without removing everything. You will need to remove the crank pulley though. Do you remember what you torqued them to?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I'm pretty sure they are visible outside of the timing cover. I would guess they were between 12 and 15lbs tops? I do remember backing off the torque wrench to see what they were at (thinking 19 was what it needed to be - accidentally looked at the tensioner pulley spec apparently) and it seemed to be in that range.
@@blakebauer2722 If you can access the bolts you can back one off while the other is still tight and re torque it then back the other off and re torque it. You should be good to go 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive so do you think there's reason for concern at the current torque? Also when removing the bolt, won't the tensioner push up or down with just one bolt in? Just hoping not to open a can of worms here. At that point I'd need to decompress and repin the tensioner, would I need to be concerned about TDC or timing being off at that point? My dealer had to order in those bolts because they didn't have them in stock. Do you think I'd be able to find a suitable replacement at like a Fastenal or something?
@@blakebauer2722 You don't need to remove the bolt just loosen it one turn then re torque.
Where do you get such a complete and informative tech manual?
I pay for a subscription to Identifix.
Excellent video. Helping to push me into trying it on my 2016 - paying someone else $1-2k to do it makes me cringe.
Hey thanks! Glad this video is helpful 👍
Also glad I found this video. I got a quote for $1,600 to do this job.
@@donovanhays I guess that's standard from Honda dealership if it includes the whole package. My local independent garage quoted me $700 with aftermarket parts, though. So you have a choice.
It's only a three to four hour job. It should cost a little less than $1,000 to have it done.
@@fullautocare4403 depends on shop rate. Around here shop rate is usually $160/hr.
Great video, thank you very much!
I’m currently doing a timing belt on an odyssey and had lined up the cam markings to the marking on the plastic cover like you did, but now that I’m putting the new belt on I realized the crank sprocket is slightly to the left of the pointer and my belt isn’t going on easy, plus all the tension is on the left side not on the right. Is it safe to turn the crank sprocket with the belt off to line it up with the pointer?
Yes. You can turn the crank or cams slightly as needed (forward or backward) to get the belt markings lined up.
Great video, thanks!
Do you advise using the bleed screw on the block to remove all the old coolant? and using it for bleeding procedure? or just the radiator to drain and bleed?
You will lose most of the coolant when you remove the water pump. There's not much left in the engine. If you want a little more coolant exchanged you can drain the radiator one more time after you've driven it for a little bit.
Thanks for the drainage answer, I have another question about the worn alternator bracket did you replace it or just fix it?
Great video! Can you (or anyone else) point me where to find the diagrams you were using?
The diagrams look like they're from Identifix. You need a subscription.
How much torque will that crank bolt take? I got the beefy socket but can't get it off with a 650 ft-lb impact. I can borrow a compressed air impact rated at 1,000, but I really don't want to shear that thing.
They are pretty tight! Having the thicker socket definitely helps with an impact. I imagine 650 should work. The Earthquake XT from Harbor Freight says it's 1,000. That's usually what I use for Hondas.
The 650 stripped both the bolt head and the socket a little bit. The 1000 did the job. About 9 seconds. Thank you.
Great video. Doing mine now. Do you put anything on the water pump o ring or just install dry. Also same question about thread sealing any of the bolts. My balancer bolt was very tight. Looked like it had locktite in it. Took a long cheater bar. Again, really good video. Thank You!!!
Hey thanks! No need to put anything in the o-ring or the bolts 👍. Yeah those crank bolts are crazy tight!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thank You for the response and again for the great video. The information about removing the Jack from under the engine was priceless and really helped me. Nobody else mentioned that. Awesome job.
So if that pulley bolt ever comes loose, then kaboom engine, right?
Glossed over removing the cover on the ECM. what is that sucker caught on?
Great work , I have inquiry what is the drive position during this process on P or N ?
Either one works. If you have it in neutral I would block the tires or set the parking brake to prevent the vehicle from rolling 👍
Does this show signs of needing to be replaced? My dealer quoted me 1400 bucks and unfortunately I don't have the scratch at the moment.
There aren't any symptoms that clue you into replacing the timing belt. This is a mileage based maintenance item every 100k. I feel your pain, it is a pricey service for sure but it beats needing to possibly replace the engine if it brakes.
Yeah I’m going to scratch this off my DIY list lol.
Honda and toyota!! Are Tough to work with it but is worthy !! Best you can get
I need to do this. What's the pin that needs to be pulled? When was it loaded?
The pin is the tensioner lock. It comes preloaded on the new tensioner. Keep the pin in until you are ready to deploy the tensioner then pull the pin out 👍
You are so honest
Is the crank pulley bolt left hand or right hand thread? Edit: it’s left hand thread
What are the risks of the camshaft sprockets moving once belt is off and if so what needs to be done?
@@alfredovelazquez822 If the timing marks are lined before removing the belt the cam sprockets should stay in place. If one decides to rotate on you that's ok just turn it back into place 👍
@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for the quick response. So I assume if this happens, no valves will be damaged, and I would just re align the sprocket back into place. Thanks again. This gives reassurance on performing this on my Odyssey.
@alfredovelazquez822 That's correct 👍. If you have any questions during your repair feel free to post in the comments 🙂
Hi, how can i get the odyssey 2016 work shop repair manual
Plz help me
I would like to know how to loosen the timing belt tensioner.
Is it same for a ra9 honda odyssey 2010?
The best video
Thank you !!!
You're welcome, glad this is helpful 👍
As a guy who has absolutely no power tools except for a drill that is only useful for drilling wood or screwing in screws in wood, is the impact absolutely necessary? Could I just use an long extension and breaker bar to get the crank pulley loose? Thanks for the video.
Short answer: yes. Many have tried and few have succeeded getting Honda crank bolts off with a breaker bar much less a breaker bar + extension. If you're considering this job as DIY, investing in proper tools will make life much easier.
@@siegsuwa aight. Yeah I needed to get an impact anyway for my job so Ill go ahead and get one.
@@christianhudspeth3338 Make sure you get the impact wrench not impact driver.
Am I able to replace the belt with a chain so the belt doesn’t break again? It’s done it twice and I’m coming here before the third time
Where did you get that Manuel from
good job brother
Thanks Alex🙂
Took me 5 hours today. Fiddle fucking with the mount was the most annoying part
Thanks for the vid but it seems the sequence is not right, I can't remove the bottom cover because the tensioner is in the way. I tried to follow this instruction, the same exact one in the manual. how were you able to remove the bottom cover without removing the tensioner first?
You're welcome 👍. The serpentine belt tensioner comes off before the bottom cover. The timing belt tensioner comes off after the cover.
Good job! Thank you
Beautifull!!!!
Thanks!
When he took the plug out of the timing cover I could have swore somebody hollered my name in the background I had to rewind and watch it again if you listen closely it sounds like he says ..."Darren".. 😂😂
@@darrencollins8075 haha that's funny 😂
on Odyclub everybody is freaking out about the jack removal from under the oil pan during coolant drain. Are you sure it is safe to do so?
The engine still has the front mount, the rear mount and the transmission mount holding it in place. The engine will drop slightly when you lower the jack but this is perfectly fine. Raise the engine back up to reinstall the right side engine mount 👍. If you need to leave it overnight to finish the next day I would put the jack back under it.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thank you for the answer, upon doing the TB i also notes small cracking in the rubber mount, its not torn, but has crackes, do you advise to swap it as well or might still be ok?
how many labor hours did the books says on this water pump and timing belt?
My honda dealer told me 5 hours
Thanks bro!
Thank you!
Snap on impact got it off for me I'm doing one rn in Carrollton
@@RobertoMartinez-gl6ii Nice! Since recording this video I've gotten the thicker socket and it's amazing how much more gusto it provides. Breaking these bolts loose by hand is no joke!
Do you install new timing belt pulley bolts or reuse the old ones?
You should be good to reuse them. Sometimes the kit will give you a new bolt with the tensioner pulley but if not just reuse the old one 👍
where can we get a copy of the writeup that you were using?
Unfortunately I can't share the documents. You would need to purchase a shop manual. Alldata diy has a yearly subscription that's very reasonably priced for what you get.
My car runs fine 113k should I change it also waterpump and belt
Yes, this is a maintenance item that should be replaced every 100k miles 👍
Big time. I don't know if the Ody is a "zero clearance" engine, but if it is - AND the timing belt breaks - the piston will smash into the valves and obliterate your entire engine. (OK, you might save your alternator, some bolts and brackets, but it'll be a total train wreck nevertheless.)
I once got lucky when my timing belt broke about 12K after it was SUPPOSED to be replaced. Turned out the vehicle I was driving then wasn't a zero-clearance engine. Might have been an 85 Camry or something. But the lesson was this: when they say change it, then CHANGE IT. Because they'll laugh all the way to the bank when you have to drop $5K+ on a new engine if you neglected to change the timing belt when the manual says to.
But I hear you. This procedure is a PITA.
Thank you 🙏
You're welcome 👍
Why do you support the engine then remove the support? Is this just to remove the bolts?
Good question. Yes, supporting the engine with a jack helps the bolts come out straighter. It also keeps the engine from dropping too hard on the other mounts. You can leave the jack there for the rest of the repair if you'd like. I remove the jack because it gets in the way of your catch pan when you pull the water pump off. A lot of coolant will spill out! But leaving it under or taking it out is up to you 👍
did you change the front main seal? Is it a good idea to do that with this job or not? is this a common area for an oil leak for odysseys. I have a 2011 odyssey touring.
Good question. Typically I don't if it's the first service at 100k unless it's showing signs of failure. At the next service around 200k I would recommend it. The Honda 3.5 is a really good engine and personally I haven't seen that oil seal fail at 100k. Maybe other mechanics have? That said once you're in there it's only a few more steps to pull the old seal and put in a new one.
Thanks. Do you have any tips or tricks on getting that crank pulley bolt torqued to spec.? For example, how to position it so as to get good leverage. I’ll be using jack and jack stands also.
@@MrRockman890 the best way to get a proper torque is to use the special holding tool. Jack the vehicle up on that side as much as possible to get room for a breaker bar. You can mark the crank bolt relative to the pulley to tighten it up however many degrees more it says. These suckers are TIGHT! If you need anything else let me know 👍
Where did you get that manual
@@coreymadden3650 The manual I use in the video is from Identifix. I put together my own repair guide in the description you can download for free.
I'm was trying to do the timing belt change on a 2013 Honda Odyssey 3.5. After getting all the covers and parts removed, I mistakenly pulled the key that connects the lower shaft to the lower timing belt sprocket. Then I proceeded to try and align the tabs for TDC but realized that the timing belt wasn't moving because I removed the key. I was moving the lower drive shaft separately from the upper camshafts
Have I ruined my engine? I can't remember how many rotations I made to mis align the lower drive shaft and upper cam shafts. This photo was taken after I used an adjustable wrench to align the shaft and sprocket. A new engine is $3k about what the car is worth. I'm feeling sick to my stomach now.
You should be ok. You can slowly bring the crankshaft to 45* before TDC and you should be ok to move the cams independently to get them lined up then move the crank to full TDC. If you feel any binding or feel like the cam or crank is getting stuck don't force it. Let me know how it goes 👍
Do I have to replace the water pump with replacing the timing belt?
No, at the very least you can just replace the belt and tensioner. But you're already 95% of the way there so replacing the water pump and timing belt pulleys will save you a ton of labor down the road.
How to buy service manual for 2015 odyssey, I believe Honda don’t sell them anymore,
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