I know this is slightly old but…to anyone else out there… I just finished my spark plugs and was gonna go with all new coils also. I saw this video and decided to do it…followed the instructions to a T…and it worked. Misfire on #1 and #4 codes, random misfire code, and coil circuit H code. All fixed. This man saved me many hundreds!
I enjoyed watching this video… I have never replaced a coil on plug before. I’ve replaced countless ignition wires and spark plugs on older vehicles, but I’ve not replaced any on vehicles with coil on plugs I was looking at one on my car today, and I was not willing to pull up on the boot because I was unsure how the assembly went together. Thank you for your video… It was very helpful.
The amount of people paying 50+ dollars for a new coil over plug or even $100 if you take into a garage just to replace an entire piece that needed a good cleaning, would be staggering. Well done Johnny!
Very good video! Very helpful! You saved me huge money!!! $97 per coil that I was gonna get, a simple cleaning and bam! Truck runs great! Awesome video thank you for taking the time and making/helping people save money and become a little more smarter!!!!😊
Good on ya mate good video, I’m definitely gonna try this. It also occurred to me you could clean that spade terminal with an emery board the ladies used to file their nails with might work a bit quicker…….. Also on UA-cam, there’s several videos showing how to test resistance of coil on plug using a primary test and a secondary test via a multimeter while it’s out it’s probably not a bad idea All the best from Melbourne Australia
Definitely does not hurt to check the resistance. I know that even if they check out okay, they can still be faulty under load. My understanding is there's no real good way to check the true health of them at load (which is where most of the problems arise)
I've got the powered by Ford intake cover and the matching fuel rail covers that help keep water,dirt,& other road debri away from the cop area. Im sittN on about 45k miles on my 06 GT so its about time for her first plug change.
That's great, I have that engine cover as well. I would definitely clean those contacts on the COPs and best of luck on the plug change! I used the impact and it worked great.
mine studders even at very low speeds ,,,, i replaced the plugs about 2 months ago and the studdering stopped the old plugs were really bad ,,,,,, ill try this i hope it works
Good to see the CPBK240 are actually made in USA. I thought for sure they would of been china. They say to coat the inside of the boot in dielectric grease, along with the head/to boot sealing rings, and finally the boot to coil stem inside and out. 2v tritons no antiseize MC plugs 28 ft lbs (yes over tighten them). And 3v 5.4 is MC plugs with Nickle anti seize on shaft/threads torqued to proper spec.
What about the coil pack on a Vulcan V6? Many brands out there. In my 50s, Taurus is my 1st frikn computer car. Also looking for good scanner, just sent back creader3001, wouldn't read O2 sensors. Was a Ford mechanic at a restoration shop that's now closed yrs back. We stuffed big blocks in old Ford classics or rebuilt what was in them.
The same idea can be applied to any coil on plug doesn't matter the make or model. If it has a coil on plugs with a spring and a boot, I would take a look and see on RockAuto or a similar site if springs and boots are available. And if so it's probably not a bad idea to take a look at changing them out and cleaning that contact. People do the same thing with Chevrolets and Toyota's... it's all the same idea.
@@3VJohnny have a pack on valve cover, not individuals. Checked the arc last night seemed more orange and red with a little blue. Would probably explain alot. Could barely notice a change in way it ran. Use to be 1st thing I checked to find a bad plug or wire. I trusted a chinese gizmo a guy plugged in. Did find problems but not this one
Just replaced Plugs n wires. Besides the crank sensor which is good or bad it's the coil or computer. Engine light has flashed at times, sure an 02 sensor or 2 are also done, don't think that's the problem tho
I just changed my plugs on my 2001 Ford Excursion V10. I torqued the plugs to 15 foot pounds. Too low ? I was told should go back and do 25 foot pounds. What's your opinion?
Ford 6.2 Motors have a little pill resistor in between the spring and contact. The tabs that hold it wear away, you need a new coil. Its expensive :lol: Each cyl has 2 plugs.
I am getting what you are describing on my 2008 4.6L F150, but there is also some strange random vibrations at idle, no matter if in gear or out of gear. what do you think
There honestly could be multiple things that cause it. First instinct would be a low-grade misfire which could be caused by dirty plugs or corroded coil on plugs. It's not something you're going to diagnose through the internet but my plan of attack would be: clean Mass airflow sensor, clean throttle body, rebuild coil on plugs, and change spark plugs if they are older (or you don't know history), change fuel filter. Most of the time that maintenance solves a lot of problems. But ultimately you're just going to have to try it and find out...good luck
I have this same issue at idle I replaced my plugs. Went to the ford dealership and they said I had a slight misfire. No codes or anything but they seen on the scan tool. They recommended coils. I would say yea clean the coils like he did and see what that does.
Exactly. This is not a one-size-fits-all fix, but usually the coils don't just fail. So it's worth the $30 to clean them and put new springs in boots and see what that does.
Are the 3v and 2v mustang coils swapable... like I've got a good running 2002 GT and I got a 2005 3 valve GT can I borrow a coral off my 2002 GT and put it on my 3-valve GT
My F-150's 4.6 Triton is doing EXACTLY what you described, i had the plugs changed, maybe slight improvement but still bad. Then watched your vid & planned to follow your instructions, it appears that i don't have the COPs, the wires go directly to the tops of the plugs. Is that because it's a 1999? Are those COPs something newer than that? If so I guess my only hope is to change the wires, do you agree?
So that is a different design that is unfortunately out of my wheelhouse. Ford had changed from that design over to the later coil on plugs. I'm not saying you can't use the same method and check for corrosion, but I personally have not owned one of the older coil pack based design so I can't speak to it. If they have the little spade connectors where the wires connect to the coil pack, I'm sure you can clean them. But unfortunately in this case, I'm not sure and you maybe better off just replacing the wires and the coil packs if they're overdue. Good luck
Wires certainly go bad, especially that age. Very common item to replace during a tuneup. Best to use Ford OEM wires. The coil pack can also wear out. Do not buy cheap ones though!
Putting dielectric grease inside boot is good, and also cleaning exterior and smearing a thin even coat of black RTV on it, and let it dry for a few hours. Keeps boot conditioned and adds a little more protection from cranking/wear.
I agree and quite frankly I think it's something you could do every 50,000-60,000 miles. My truck had around 40-50,000 miles from the first time I had changed the coil on plugs, and they already had the corrosion on them. Just good preventative maintenance to keep things uneventful and running strong!
The boots on the coil packs for my 2012 Mazda 3 seem stuck on. I'm not able to get them off, they pull a little bit, then snap back into place. Any advice?
I just use the contact cleaner because that's what it is designed for and readily available at any parts store. It evaporates. No need for anything else.
@@3VJohnny man I just finished, plugs job…was gonna spend LOTS of money on new coils also…watched this video…decided to use the method… boom codes gone. 2 misfires, a random misfire, and a coil circuit code-fixed. Thanks a ton. Ps I used some battery cleaner I found. It worked well.
This is one of those “the most common cause” and “easy to fix” instructionals that when you finally diagnose your problem is never EVER the cause. Don’t get me wrong. This will need fixing too and you will think you’re done. But then, when you test you will find the symptoms intact and something completely independent causing the same problem. Hundred percent of the time. That’s just the law.
I know this is slightly old but…to anyone else out there… I just finished my spark plugs and was gonna go with all new coils also. I saw this video and decided to do it…followed the instructions to a T…and it worked. Misfire on #1 and #4 codes, random misfire code, and coil circuit H code. All fixed. This man saved me many hundreds!
Glad to hear. Coils rarely ever fail and this to me is great preventative maintenance
My Expedition drivetrain felt like it was going to rip out from underneath the vehicle. Did this and now it is smooth as butter. Thanks Johnny!
Awesome, so glad to hear Cameron!
I enjoyed watching this video… I have never replaced a coil on plug before. I’ve replaced countless ignition wires and spark plugs on older vehicles, but I’ve not replaced any on vehicles with coil on plugs I was looking at one on my car today, and I was not willing to pull up on the boot because I was unsure how the assembly went together. Thank you for your video… It was very helpful.
Awesome, glad you found value and I appreciate the kind words
Great tip Johnny. The engine light is staying off and the miss is gone.
I own a 99 f250 SD and I use the rifle bore cleaning brush and cordless drill plus contact spray
cleaner.
Works every time.👍🏽🤑
The amount of people paying 50+ dollars for a new coil over plug or even $100 if you take into a garage just to replace an entire piece that needed a good cleaning, would be staggering.
Well done Johnny!
Absolutely! They rarely fail and to think a full set at least a few years ago was over $300 is just mind-boggling.
Very good video! Very helpful! You saved me huge money!!! $97 per coil that I was gonna get, a simple cleaning and bam! Truck runs great! Awesome video thank you for taking the time and making/helping people save money and become a little more smarter!!!!😊
Good on ya mate
good video, I’m definitely gonna try this. It also occurred to me you could clean that spade terminal with an emery board the ladies used to file their nails with might work a bit quicker……..
Also on UA-cam, there’s several videos showing how to test resistance of coil on plug using a primary test and a secondary test via a multimeter while it’s out it’s probably not a bad idea
All the best from Melbourne Australia
Definitely does not hurt to check the resistance. I know that even if they check out okay, they can still be faulty under load. My understanding is there's no real good way to check the true health of them at load (which is where most of the problems arise)
Sandpaper nail files work great for this sort of job.
Good idea!
I've got the powered by Ford intake cover and the matching fuel rail covers that help keep water,dirt,& other road debri away from the cop area. Im sittN on about 45k miles on my 06 GT so its about time for her first plug change.
That's great, I have that engine cover as well.
I would definitely clean those contacts on the COPs and best of luck on the plug change! I used the impact and it worked great.
Awesome video !!! You literally saved me like $200 !!! Thanks so much !!!
Really excellent video! Helps me out a bunch
I'm going to try this today...good tip.
From Libya, i thank you so much for this helful video.
Great video and thanks for sharing! Will try this out for sure!
Hope it works out for you. Even if there's no issues, it's good to clean them when you do spark plugs.
mine studders even at very low speeds ,,,, i replaced the plugs about 2 months ago and the studdering stopped the old plugs were really bad ,,,,,, ill try this i hope it works
More great info.....thanks so much!
Great video very helpful thanks
Awesome thanks man trying to this tomorrow 👍
Good luck!
Good to see the CPBK240 are actually made in USA. I thought for sure they would of been china. They say to coat the inside of the boot in dielectric grease, along with the head/to boot sealing rings, and finally the boot to coil stem inside and out. 2v tritons no antiseize MC plugs 28 ft lbs (yes over tighten them). And 3v 5.4 is MC plugs with Nickle anti seize on shaft/threads torqued to proper spec.
Can you just clean the original spring instead of buying new ones? If so, what would be the best way?
Recientemente lo hice, funcionó excelente..gracias
Great video ! Thanks
What about the coil pack on a Vulcan V6? Many brands out there. In my 50s, Taurus is my 1st frikn computer car. Also looking for good scanner, just sent back creader3001, wouldn't read O2 sensors. Was a Ford mechanic at a restoration shop that's now closed yrs back. We stuffed big blocks in old Ford classics or rebuilt what was in them.
The same idea can be applied to any coil on plug doesn't matter the make or model. If it has a coil on plugs with a spring and a boot, I would take a look and see on RockAuto or a similar site if springs and boots are available. And if so it's probably not a bad idea to take a look at changing them out and cleaning that contact. People do the same thing with Chevrolets and Toyota's... it's all the same idea.
@@3VJohnny have a pack on valve cover, not individuals. Checked the arc last night seemed more orange and red with a little blue. Would probably explain alot. Could barely notice a change in way it ran. Use to be 1st thing I checked to find a bad plug or wire. I trusted a chinese gizmo a guy plugged in. Did find problems but not this one
Just replaced Plugs n wires. Besides the crank sensor which is good or bad it's the coil or computer. Engine light has flashed at times, sure an 02 sensor or 2 are also done, don't think that's the problem tho
I just changed my plugs on my 2001 Ford Excursion V10. I torqued the plugs to 15 foot pounds. Too low ? I was told should go back and do 25 foot pounds. What's your opinion?
2010 f150 xlt 4.6 3v. Can i use some fine sandpaper to clean the corosion? I have the shudder at 50mph, im ordering boots and springs now
Ford 6.2 Motors have a little pill resistor in between the spring and contact. The tabs that hold it wear away, you need a new coil. Its expensive :lol: Each cyl has 2 plugs.
Would that standard kit work for the 2011 f250SD? Looking to tackle misfire on cylinder 7!
I am getting what you are describing on my 2008 4.6L F150, but there is also some strange random vibrations at idle, no matter if in gear or out of gear. what do you think
There honestly could be multiple things that cause it. First instinct would be a low-grade misfire which could be caused by dirty plugs or corroded coil on plugs. It's not something you're going to diagnose through the internet but my plan of attack would be: clean Mass airflow sensor, clean throttle body, rebuild coil on plugs, and change spark plugs if they are older (or you don't know history), change fuel filter. Most of the time that maintenance solves a lot of problems. But ultimately you're just going to have to try it and find out...good luck
I have this same issue at idle I replaced my plugs. Went to the ford dealership and they said I had a slight misfire. No codes or anything but they seen on the scan tool. They recommended coils. I would say yea clean the coils like he did and see what that does.
Exactly. This is not a one-size-fits-all fix, but usually the coils don't just fail. So it's worth the $30 to clean them and put new springs in boots and see what that does.
How do you remove the spring
Are the 3v and 2v mustang coils swapable... like I've got a good running 2002 GT and I got a 2005 3 valve GT can I borrow a coral off my 2002 GT and put it on my 3-valve GT
No they are different. 2V engines us DG-508 coils.
3V engines use DG-511
My F-150's 4.6 Triton is doing EXACTLY what you described, i had the plugs changed, maybe slight improvement but still bad. Then watched your vid & planned to follow your instructions, it appears that i don't have the COPs, the wires go directly to the tops of the plugs. Is that because it's a 1999? Are those COPs something newer than that? If so I guess my only hope is to change the wires, do you agree?
So that is a different design that is unfortunately out of my wheelhouse. Ford had changed from that design over to the later coil on plugs. I'm not saying you can't use the same method and check for corrosion, but I personally have not owned one of the older coil pack based design so I can't speak to it.
If they have the little spade connectors where the wires connect to the coil pack, I'm sure you can clean them. But unfortunately in this case, I'm not sure and you maybe better off just replacing the wires and the coil packs if they're overdue. Good luck
Wires certainly go bad, especially that age. Very common item to replace during a tuneup. Best to use Ford OEM wires. The coil pack can also wear out. Do not buy cheap ones though!
Excellent
Putting dielectric grease inside boot is good, and also cleaning exterior and smearing a thin even coat of black RTV on it, and let it dry for a few hours. Keeps boot conditioned and adds a little more protection from cranking/wear.
Kinda seems best to do this every time you change plugs as PM esp if cost 30$
I agree and quite frankly I think it's something you could do every 50,000-60,000 miles. My truck had around 40-50,000 miles from the first time I had changed the coil on plugs, and they already had the corrosion on them. Just good preventative maintenance to keep things uneventful and running strong!
The boots on the coil packs for my 2012 Mazda 3 seem stuck on. I'm not able to get them off, they pull a little bit, then snap back into place. Any advice?
Try using silicone spray and/or a flat bladed pick
Any alternatives to the special contact cleaner? I don’t wanna corrode my boots
I just use the contact cleaner because that's what it is designed for and readily available at any parts store. It evaporates. No need for anything else.
@@3VJohnny man I just finished, plugs job…was gonna spend LOTS of money on new coils also…watched this video…decided to use the method… boom codes gone. 2 misfires, a random misfire, and a coil circuit code-fixed. Thanks a ton.
Ps I used some battery cleaner I found. It worked well.
Awesome glad to hear it!!
sometimes it is just the springs inside the boot.
👍🏽
I cleaned every one of mine with electric connector cleaner worked great for a week or so and gradually got worse again
Use a low voltage terminal flat head it's a perfect fir to clean the coil peckerhead
This is one of those “the most common cause” and “easy to fix” instructionals that when you finally diagnose your problem is never EVER the cause. Don’t get me wrong. This will need fixing too and you will think you’re done. But then, when you test you will find the symptoms intact and something completely independent causing the same problem. Hundred percent of the time. That’s just the law.
fyi stop looking at your self in the camara look at the camara.
Great video. I don't mean to be anal, but your flag in the back ground needs to be presented with the stars to the left.
It's called a COIL.. A COIL!.. NOT A COIL ON PLUG!!... THE CORRECT NAME IS IGNITION COIL
Nope. Wrong. This ignition system is called a coil on plug
When a coil has 8 windings as a posed to 10, the ECM will not allow aftermarket parts.
Great video. Thanks!