Omar, I’m’m all about Option 1. Good enough is good enough. Drop it in, work the bugs out of the car, have some fun. Never let perfection be the enemy of progress. Tri-Power later.
I would've rolled bearings in there while you were in there. Plan on dropping it into Neutral at every stop light when your oil pressure dips and your oil light stay on. Ask me how I know.
Option #1 . Get the whole car squared away with single quad on 390 and FPA exhaust. It will just be a matter of swapping in the Omar prepped Tri-power 428 WHEN it’s ready . I realize that it’s easier said than done 😎 .
Option 1 and drive it. Enjoying the car now will keep you motivated. I have a '64 XL (right down to the same color as yours) with a 390 and also have a '66 428 sitting on the sidelines.
When going in to replace the rear seal, replace all the main and rod bearings. This will save time and later expense. Also poke at the timing chain to check the wear there. That would be much easier to change now while the engine is out. Yes you have 428 to eventually install, but those worn bearings will let the crank jump up and down which will allow the front and rear seals to leak. If an automatic, the oil pressure light will flicker at stops when warmed up. Do not worry about a different intake, fix the bottom end before those worn bearings bite your butt. You are courting spun bearings with what you have done. Put a true roller double roller timing set in. When assembled again, test run on your stand. When you are confident it is good, you can be confident it will give years of trouble free service.
I have a tired .040 over 390 in my 63 Galaxie 500XL convertible. Despite being worn and leaking oil, it is a great driver. One cylinder is slightly down on compression but it was a nice build 15+ years ago w/ forged TRW pistons, nice cam etc. When it is warm, oil pressure would be 10-12 psi (10W30) although when cold it was 50 psi. I first moved to 10W40 which helped hot oil pressure. However, when the car sat for a few weeks the valve train would rattle when fired until oil PSI came up. I moved on to Valvoline VR1 20W50 and replaced one quart with Lucas oil treatment. Adding Lucas solved the problem with startup valve train rattle but combined with 20W50 really had cold oil PSI too high and increased all of the oil leaks from the front cover, rear main seal. When the summer drive season is over, I'm going to pull it out of the car and decide if rings and bearings will get the job done or if more serious work is needed. Long story short, I'd go 10W40 and a quart of Lucas, drive it easy and enjoy cruising your Galaxie. A full rebuild is easy to say in the comments but $$$$.
i just started mine on a run stand. ran great for about 15 minutes and then started losing oil pressure big time down to about 5-10 psi. started about 45-50! scratching my head now. All new parts..... nice video
David Freiburger has said, Don't make it perfect, just get it running. Put that engine in and go cruising.
Omar, I’m’m all about Option 1. Good enough is good enough. Drop it in, work the bugs out of the car, have some fun. Never let perfection be the enemy of progress. Tri-Power later.
Drop it in as is and enjoy the ride! Cheers! 😎👍🏎🏁🏁
I'd go for option 1, given the serious wear on the bearings that should be addressed as well before you add bolt-on goodies like a tri-power.
Option 1. Get it going as-is.
I would've rolled bearings in there while you were in there. Plan on dropping it into Neutral at every stop light when your oil pressure dips and your oil light stay on. Ask me how I know.
Option 1. That tri-power setup is cool but those are a real pain.
Great job fixing the oil leak. Option 1 for me.
Looking at the bearings, I would drop it in as is and enjoy the ride until rebuild time.
Option #1 . Get the whole car squared away with single quad on 390 and FPA exhaust. It will just be a matter of swapping in the Omar prepped Tri-power 428 WHEN it’s ready . I realize that it’s easier said than done 😎 .
Option 1 and drive it. Enjoying the car now will keep you motivated. I have a '64 XL (right down to the same color as yours) with a 390 and also have a '66 428 sitting on the sidelines.
Since it’s on a stand, prep it for painting. It would clean up nicely
Good stuff!! Option #1 for me! Get it up and running fast!
When going in to replace the rear seal, replace all the main and rod bearings. This will save time and later expense. Also poke at the timing chain to check the wear there. That would be much easier to change now while the engine is out. Yes you have 428 to eventually install, but those worn bearings will let the crank jump up and down which will allow the front and rear seals to leak. If an automatic, the oil pressure light will flicker at stops when warmed up. Do not worry about a different intake, fix the bottom end before those worn bearings bite your butt. You are courting spun bearings with what you have done. Put a true roller double roller timing set in. When assembled again, test run on your stand. When you are confident it is good, you can be confident it will give years of trouble free service.
I have a tired .040 over 390 in my 63 Galaxie 500XL convertible. Despite being worn and leaking oil, it is a great driver. One cylinder is slightly down on compression but it was a nice build 15+ years ago w/ forged TRW pistons, nice cam etc. When it is warm, oil pressure would be 10-12 psi (10W30) although when cold it was 50 psi. I first moved to 10W40 which helped hot oil pressure. However, when the car sat for a few weeks the valve train would rattle when fired until oil PSI came up. I moved on to Valvoline VR1 20W50 and replaced one quart with Lucas oil treatment. Adding Lucas solved the problem with startup valve train rattle but combined with 20W50 really had cold oil PSI too high and increased all of the oil leaks from the front cover, rear main seal. When the summer drive season is over, I'm going to pull it out of the car and decide if rings and bearings will get the job done or if more serious work is needed. Long story short, I'd go 10W40 and a quart of Lucas, drive it easy and enjoy cruising your Galaxie. A full rebuild is easy to say in the comments but $$$$.
As always, Thanks for the great, informative video. Love you humility...
Put the 390 in as is till the 427 is ready. Then put the 390 in the Comet. Fun
i just started mine on a run stand. ran great for about 15 minutes and then started losing oil pressure big time down to about 5-10 psi. started about 45-50! scratching my head now. All new parts..... nice video
Hi Omar, I had a 67 cyclone with a modified 390 . That car was a
Great video Omar. Run it as is. It starts quick and runs smooth. Cruise it until the 427 is ready.