Who doesn't want free plants!! I'm trying this tonight. Thank you for all your videos, they have helped me so much. I'm in my third year of planting. I have no one but youtubers to teach me. You are one of my faves, James is too. Loved seeing the collab between you two. Happy gardening!
I did this with a sungold tomato last year but started the cuttings in water until they showed a good root system. I kept a couple growing during the winter on a window sill and now have a dozen growing in my poly tunnel. Just about to pick the first fruit (and that’s in the U.K.)
I've tried the rooting method in water, and I find the stems often yellow or turn brown in spots. I know some people have success doing it this way, but I honestly have more success just direct-rooting them in moist soil, and you get to skip an entire step. I've cloned 2 plants this season alone, and they always take within a week or less as long as you keep them moist. I'm growing Sungold this year, and MAN is it tasty!
Getting in here late but I just want to say how helpful and informative this video was. It never crossed my pointed little mind (even with both neurons working simultaneously) to cut off suckers to propagate my tomato plants. Thank you! Dale: Don't let him give you a hard time. You're no monster, just a high-quality connoisseur!
Thanks! I'm glad the video was helpful. Dale is one of the least picky eaters I've ever encountered, but he doesn't like strawberries, blackberries and raspberries. I think it's the texture. If I toss them in the air and he grabs them out of the air, he'll eat them because he likes the taste, but he usually won't take them from my hand. I guess it's the bumpiness.
You can root the suckers in a glass of water as well. Ive gone away from using any mulch at all because of insect pressure. It has a made a huge difference. Great video, good information.
I have had very limited success trying to root cuttings in water. They often turn yellow or brown in my experience. Rooting them in soil seems to be much faster with nearly a 100% success rate, and they don't suffer from the browning. Plus, you skip an entire step of having to transfer them into the glass and then into the ground.
Jealous of your dry summers and lower disease pressure. Some of my heirlooms are starting to show spots. Disease is about 3 weeks behind schedule thanks to this dry spell we've been stuck in though, so I can't really complain. Thanks for watching!
I had started hydroponic tomatoes last August. The plants produced for me all winter. I rooted cuttings and put them in tbe garden this year. My plan had been to see if I could reverse that this fall and take cuttings back inside. Do you think that diseases make that a bad choice?
@@TheMillennialGardener You’re welcome. I enjoy your videos specifically because you do a lot of research and show the actual results. Yes, our dry, desert conditions (zone 10a) aren’t conducive to disease and insects. We do have an abundance of spider mites, flea beetles and aphids but they don’t usually affect tomatoes. Horn worms are also prevalent but the blue Jays and mocking birds love ‘em and keep the plants cleared of those beasties! The biggest problem with my tomatoes is me and my penchant to over-fertilize and get beautiful green growth and few fruit. I went to an organic liquid duo of 3-3-2 and 3-3-5 this season vs. 20-20-20 water soluble and there has been a marked difference, more fruiting and still good green growth. If I lived in your climate I’m not sure I’d be a gardener. I have to hand it to you though for the variety of produce you grow and for winning the battle against diseases and pests. Oh, we also have pocket gophers that are the bane of my existence. I’ve had three foot corn stalks literally disappear underground in seconds. I wish they made a sprayer for those darned things!
@farmerbob4554 Hi FarmerBob, I don't know if you found a solution to your gopher problem, but I just saw a video where the guy laid galvanized hardware cloth, under the area he was planting and said it worked for him. Hope that helps.
Wow! I didn’t think the tomato plant would survive but great job on saving it and creating a new plant as well. Now I know what to do if this happens to my tomato plants. Great channel and It is always good when Dale is part of it!!
I'm glad it was helpful! I'm happy to say my Indigo Blue Beauty have 6 nice, healthy tomatoes on it that are the size of clementines, now. The plant looks great. Dale will always be a part of this channel, because he's the best looking member! Thanks for watching!
Everybody stand back! The Millennial Doctor is in the garden. My wife every year make 100;s of clones but she doesn't go to that kind of trouble. she dips the end in the Harmone then puts in cup of water in the kitchen window and they almost always make a huge root ball then she plants
I've had limited luck rooting tomatoes in water. They often turn yellow on me, which indicates they'd need a soluble fertilizer mixed in to maintain their health. I've never failed simply plopping them directly into the ground and keeping it moist. Cloning in water is a whole extra step since you'll then have to very carefully plant the rooted cuttings. Just plopping them in the ground like I did is the fastest method possible, and I've never had a cutting fail for me.
Good information on propagating, thank you. Ive seen many videos that say put it into a small pot of dirt like cottage cheese container, water, and that's it. Well all mine have died this year, if not overnight then within a few days. i'll have to try your mini greenhouse method.
I would suggest planting your suckers not only as deep as you can but also high enough to keep leaves off the ground to prevent disease in your young plant. Also I would not suggest getting the leaves wet. Try to water under the leaves with them not touching soil. Disease in your young plant can easily destroy your efforts.
Good boy Dale! My two best buds spit out fruit that isn't perfectly sweet. They both prefer freshly picked asparagus over almost anything from the garden. And of course, thanks for the vid.... very helpful info as always.
Awesome! I ❤️ your videos and am learning volumes from you. Even though I am in the desert instead of your semi-tropical climate, I can easily apply your instructions. Also ❤️ Dale! Please keep adding clips of him.
I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful. I really appreciate you watching. Our climates may differ a lot, but the vast majority of gardening truths can be applied everywhere. Dale is my best bud, so he'll always steal the spotlight when he feels like it 😂
@@TheMillennialGardener BTW I just picked the largest fig ever from my nearly 3 year old tree. This was after following your advice during the dormant season and other fig tree advice you gave in the past year.
@@joemerino3243 U had wondered that as well, but last year I rooted some suckers off a determinant plant I had to prune for disease and the sucker gave me a full plant. YMMV...
Good job with the cutting. I'll try an opaque jug next time, but in the house. the sun here would cook it. 1st use of mulch for us, you in NC and me in southern Arizona, is insulation. Feeding is next. I put a foot or more on the garden beds and when it sinks and mats, add more. Did you see soil aphids? The only time I had a problem was when planting ginger; they eat the buds off it. Those looked like baby fishworms, which are white when young. and yep, they'll feed on plant roots when they need moisture. the best tomato here is Porter Improved. It was developed after WWII in West Texas. the thing can handle drought, salts, alkaline soils, hear and strong, dry winds (20+ mph 4% humidity is common here).
Thanks for another great video. I'd have put the sucker in a pot and kept it out of the sun for a few days to ensure it didn't dehydrate until the new roots took effect. I'd have also watered it with Seasol (a weak seaweed solution) so that it could absorb nutrients through the foliage until the roots took over. You're spot on that tomato suckers are easy to create clones, but if I had one chance (as you did in this case), I'd do the above to dot I's and cross T's. Have you had any experience with cloning dwarfs? Was going to try it this upcoming season. Any tips would be appreciated (as to when to clone and from where, given they're determinates).
While I'm sure the additional measures you've suggested can't hurt, I've found tomato suckers are so easy to direct-root in soil that I don't think it's necessary. As long as you keep them moist, they've never failed for me. I'd actually avoid doing it in pots, because pots are more likely to suffer from moisture fluctuation problems and suffer some kind of disease. My garden soil is very healthy, so it should be fairly pathogen-free. I've always found pots to be a bigger liability, because you can't develop strong fungal webs or cultivate healthy soil bacteria in them because of the limited ecosystem. Your garden soil is easier to keep evenly moist, and because my soil is well cared for, disease pressure is lower. Just something to consider. I don't think I've ever cloned a dwarf before. Every Dwarf Tomato Project tomato I've ever grown has been so stout that it's never been necessary. I only seem to have problems with indeterminates. They seem to be the weakest of the lot. However, the Dwarf Tomato Project tomatoes sucker just like any other tomato, so as long as you choose a sucker that's 4-8 inches in length, they should root in the same exact way.
This is such a great video! You've identified the problem and gave several concise solutions with explanations with results to show! Keep up the quality content sir!
Super helpful video as usual, thank you! Wish I saw this before I pruned my tomatoes yesterday, suckers are already dried out now. Your soil looks great, what is the soil recipe in this garden bed?
My garden soil is 100% local compost from a place near me called Hoffman Ecoworks. They make their own compost onsite and have an enormous mountain-like pile. I had 20CY dumped in my front lawn and I manually filled my beds with a wheelbarrow.
It doesn't have to be a sucker , I took off a limb that had no blooms , left only a few leaves at top , and put it in a sunny window in a glass of water .2 1/2 weeks , its rooted .
I'm not a fan of this method. I find the suckers tend to turn yellow around the edges of the leaves, and brown spots can form. It also takes several weeks to do this, and you have to go through this extra step. If you simply cut them and stick them directly in the ground, they'll root more quickly, they won't develop the yellowing and you can eliminate the extra transplant step. Most cuttings have failed for me in water, but directly in ground, I have a 100% success rate.
I live where its pretty hot and humid, i've gotten probably a 85% success rate with planting suckers. I had 6 original plants i lost 3 to blight and have about 6 more rooted suckers off of the remaining healthy plants
You can, but you'll need to change the water frequently and make sure your tomatoes are free of disease. If your tomatoes have disease on them, you'll want to start new seed.
I root tomato cuttings every year. Shouldn't' the blossoms of the cutting have been removed so all of the energy in the new plant could go towards root development?
I'm in Brunswick County. I say "Wilmington" because people know where that is. I have more detailed location info in the video description and coordinates in the channel description.
Can you use the spray to prevent this from happening. I had 3 plants last year, they just died. They were 4 feet tall. No leaf spot , blight , or anything. I could see. They just started wilting.
That is likely a disease called Bacterial Wilt. Once the tomato gets that, it closes off the plant's ability to uptake water from the roots and it's as good as dead. It's common in areas with sandy soils and high humidity (such as mine). There is nothing you can really do about it. Your best defense is to grow a lot more tomatoes than you need, and to grow many different varieties. Some years, certain varieties do poorly, so it's good to have some backups. I always grow a diverse tomato planting, because something will always grow well if you try different types.
Sort of. Peppers do not root as easily as tomatoes, because peppers do not root all along the stems like tomatoes do. They aren't covered in those fine hairs like tomatoes are. Peppers root more like a fig cutting, where roots can grow out of the cut line and at nodes. You can clone pepper plants by taking cuttings, removing the leaves, burying them and maintaining the humidity, but they'll probably take 2-3 times longer than a tomato and may benefit from a little rooting hormone.
Tomato suckers root so quickly and readily, I don't think you need to do anything to them aside from keep moist, maintain humidity and wait a week. They're really, really easy.
Most tomato disease starts from bacteria and viruses in the soil splashing on the undersides of leaves. It is good practice to remove the lowest few leaf nodes to help prevent this splashing during rain.
Great video. Especially the part about taking the sucker and making another plant. What was the name of the tape you wrapped around the stem of your mother plant? I didn’t quite get it and didn’t see it listed in your items you use. I look forward to reading your reply.
Open tomato heart surgery 😀✌ I have better success rate if I place the sucker in a glass jar with clean water for few days until it has some roots, clearly seen through the glass jar. Then i transplant the sucker to a pot and almost surely will make it.
My apologies, what was the organic product you used to kill off the invaders? Would BT or Neem oil have accomplished the same end result? Do you think the mulch itself brought in the bugs?
The Pyganic brand pyrethrin concentrate I have linked in my Amazon Storefront is broad-spectrum and will kill virtually any insect. BT is only effective against worms and caterpillars, and will not kill any other insects. Neem, for me, has never done anything but burn my plant's leaves. I've never had any success with 100% cold pressed neem oil, and it costs more than the effective, organic pesticides that do work. Spinosad is another excellent, organic, broad-spectrum alternative if you don't want to use pyrethrin.
Nevermind I read a reply you sent to someone else ab rooting in water. I have a couple suckers in a little shot glass with water right now and they’ve started to root. Going to stick them in some seedling trays now
That isn't really necessary for a tomato, since tomatoes root so readily. The most important thing you need when rooting a tomato is maintaining high humidity and shielding from strong sun until it really gets growing.
@@TheMillennialGardener I noticed some comments on other channels were people are claiming that you are only supposed to use rooting power or gel on non-edible plants. I had never heard that before, but I was wondering if you, Dr. Tomato, know the low-down on that? ;-)
Tomatoes love sending surface roots through mulch. I find tomatoes do very well in a mulch layer. Not all annuals do - some struggle - but indeterminate tomatoes do very well with mulch.
The greenhouse should increase your chances of success and speed up the process. You can certainly root the cuttings without it, but I really think it helps.
If you leave the cap off, it should vent just fine. The jug will actually block the harsh UV rays of the sun, and it will hold in the humidity, decreasing stress. Unless you live in an extreme environment, like the desert southwest, with very large temperature extremes (in which case you probably are beyond your tomato season, anyway), it should help.
It must've been a fluke with the camera on him. He's back to refusing to eat them again. He is a very good eater, but he won't do strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. It must be the texture with all the lumps and bumps.
If I want more tomato plants I just pull suckers and shove them in the ground like you did. Works good for me.
Master designer, and now a proven tree surgeon. Hats off to ya, mate
Thank you! Thanks for watching. I really appreciate it.
Thank you, I didn't even know a person could operate on a tomato plant, amazing.
Who doesn't want free plants!! I'm trying this tonight. Thank you for all your videos, they have helped me so much. I'm in my third year of planting. I have no one but youtubers to teach me. You are one of my faves, James is too. Loved seeing the collab between you two. Happy gardening!
jug greenhouse? absolute genius!
They work great. They're excellent for frost protection on new transplants in spring, as well. Thanks for watching!
I did this with a sungold tomato last year but started the cuttings in water until they showed a good root system. I kept a couple growing during the winter on a window sill and now have a dozen growing in my poly tunnel. Just about to pick the first fruit (and that’s in the U.K.)
I've tried the rooting method in water, and I find the stems often yellow or turn brown in spots. I know some people have success doing it this way, but I honestly have more success just direct-rooting them in moist soil, and you get to skip an entire step. I've cloned 2 plants this season alone, and they always take within a week or less as long as you keep them moist. I'm growing Sungold this year, and MAN is it tasty!
Getting in here late but I just want to say how helpful and informative this video was. It never crossed my pointed little mind (even with both neurons working simultaneously) to cut off suckers to propagate my tomato plants. Thank you! Dale: Don't let him give you a hard time. You're no monster, just a high-quality connoisseur!
Thanks! I'm glad the video was helpful. Dale is one of the least picky eaters I've ever encountered, but he doesn't like strawberries, blackberries and raspberries. I think it's the texture. If I toss them in the air and he grabs them out of the air, he'll eat them because he likes the taste, but he usually won't take them from my hand. I guess it's the bumpiness.
You can root the suckers in a glass of water as well. Ive gone away from using any mulch at all because of insect pressure. It has a made a huge difference. Great video, good information.
I have had very limited success trying to root cuttings in water. They often turn yellow or brown in my experience. Rooting them in soil seems to be much faster with nearly a 100% success rate, and they don't suffer from the browning. Plus, you skip an entire step of having to transfer them into the glass and then into the ground.
Great job rescuing that tomato! I’ll be propagating from suckers in a couple weeks for a second tomato crop this Fall.
Jealous of your dry summers and lower disease pressure. Some of my heirlooms are starting to show spots. Disease is about 3 weeks behind schedule thanks to this dry spell we've been stuck in though, so I can't really complain. Thanks for watching!
I had started hydroponic tomatoes last August. The plants produced for me all winter. I rooted cuttings and put them in tbe garden this year. My plan had been to see if I could reverse that this fall and take cuttings back inside. Do you think that diseases make that a bad choice?
@@TheMillennialGardener You’re welcome. I enjoy your videos specifically because you do a lot of research and show the actual results. Yes, our dry, desert conditions (zone 10a) aren’t conducive to disease and insects. We do have an abundance of spider mites, flea beetles and aphids but they don’t usually affect tomatoes. Horn worms are also prevalent but the blue Jays and mocking birds love ‘em and keep the plants cleared of those beasties! The biggest problem with my tomatoes is me and my penchant to over-fertilize and get beautiful green growth and few fruit. I went to an organic liquid duo of 3-3-2 and 3-3-5 this season vs. 20-20-20 water soluble and there has been a marked difference, more fruiting and still good green growth. If I lived in your climate I’m not sure I’d be a gardener. I have to hand it to you though for the variety of produce you grow and for winning the battle against diseases and pests. Oh, we also have pocket gophers that are the bane of my existence. I’ve had three foot corn stalks literally disappear underground in seconds. I wish they made a sprayer for those darned things!
@@farmerbob4554 They do, but .22 is hard to find sometimes now and expensive.
@farmerbob4554 Hi FarmerBob, I don't know if you found a solution to your gopher problem, but I just saw a video where the guy laid galvanized hardware cloth, under the area he was planting and said it worked for him. Hope that helps.
You're a tomato surgeon! Well done.
Thanks for watching!
Wow! I didn’t think the tomato plant would survive but great job on saving it and creating a new plant as well. Now I know what to do if this happens to my tomato plants. Great channel and It is always good when Dale is part of it!!
I'm glad it was helpful! I'm happy to say my Indigo Blue Beauty have 6 nice, healthy tomatoes on it that are the size of clementines, now. The plant looks great. Dale will always be a part of this channel, because he's the best looking member! Thanks for watching!
Everybody stand back! The Millennial Doctor is in the garden. My wife every year make 100;s of clones but she doesn't go to that kind of trouble. she dips the end in the Harmone then puts in cup of water in the kitchen window and they almost always make a huge root ball then she plants
I've had limited luck rooting tomatoes in water. They often turn yellow on me, which indicates they'd need a soluble fertilizer mixed in to maintain their health. I've never failed simply plopping them directly into the ground and keeping it moist. Cloning in water is a whole extra step since you'll then have to very carefully plant the rooted cuttings. Just plopping them in the ground like I did is the fastest method possible, and I've never had a cutting fail for me.
Good information on propagating, thank you. Ive seen many videos that say put it into a small pot of dirt like cottage cheese container, water, and that's it. Well all mine have died this year, if not overnight then within a few days. i'll have to try your mini greenhouse method.
I would suggest planting your suckers not only as deep as you can but also high enough to keep leaves off the ground to prevent disease in your young plant. Also I would not suggest getting the leaves wet. Try to water under the leaves with them not touching soil. Disease in your young plant can easily destroy your efforts.
Amazing tips, I’m glad you saved your tomato plant 🙏 I did something similar and got four extra tomato plants. Your method is easier.
Thanks for watching! Glad to hear you were able to get some clones, too!
Good boy Dale! My two best buds spit out fruit that isn't perfectly sweet. They both prefer freshly picked asparagus over almost anything from the garden. And of course, thanks for the vid.... very helpful info as always.
Awesome! I ❤️ your videos and am learning volumes from you. Even though I am in the desert instead of your semi-tropical climate, I can easily apply your instructions.
Also ❤️ Dale! Please keep adding clips of him.
I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful. I really appreciate you watching. Our climates may differ a lot, but the vast majority of gardening truths can be applied everywhere. Dale is my best bud, so he'll always steal the spotlight when he feels like it 😂
@@TheMillennialGardener BTW I just picked the largest fig ever from my nearly 3 year old tree. This was after following your advice during the dormant season and other fig tree advice you gave in the past year.
I don't know for sure, but I suspect this would only work on indeterminate tomato plants, of which blue beauty is one. Great job on the stem surgery!
It will work on determinates as well. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener Very interesting!
@@joemerino3243 U had wondered that as well, but last year I rooted some suckers off a determinant plant I had to prune for disease and the sucker gave me a full plant. YMMV...
Good job with the cutting. I'll try an opaque jug next time, but in the house. the sun here would cook it.
1st use of mulch for us, you in NC and me in southern Arizona, is insulation. Feeding is next. I put a foot or more on the garden beds and when it sinks and mats, add more.
Did you see soil aphids? The only time I had a problem was when planting ginger; they eat the buds off it. Those looked like baby fishworms, which are white when young. and yep, they'll feed on plant roots when they need moisture.
the best tomato here is Porter Improved. It was developed after WWII in West Texas. the thing can handle drought, salts, alkaline soils, hear and strong, dry winds (20+ mph 4% humidity is common here).
Thanks for sharing, how you identify tomato sucker ?
The tomato suckers form at 45 degree angles in between the main stem and a leaf stem. They shoot off at the sides.
Great tips, smart use of the sucker!! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Well done! Who knew that was even possible to do. Just amazing 👏👏👏
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for another great video. I'd have put the sucker in a pot and kept it out of the sun for a few days to ensure it didn't dehydrate until the new roots took effect.
I'd have also watered it with Seasol (a weak seaweed solution) so that it could absorb nutrients through the foliage until the roots took over.
You're spot on that tomato suckers are easy to create clones, but if I had one chance (as you did in this case), I'd do the above to dot I's and cross T's.
Have you had any experience with cloning dwarfs? Was going to try it this upcoming season.
Any tips would be appreciated (as to when to clone and from where, given they're determinates).
While I'm sure the additional measures you've suggested can't hurt, I've found tomato suckers are so easy to direct-root in soil that I don't think it's necessary. As long as you keep them moist, they've never failed for me. I'd actually avoid doing it in pots, because pots are more likely to suffer from moisture fluctuation problems and suffer some kind of disease. My garden soil is very healthy, so it should be fairly pathogen-free. I've always found pots to be a bigger liability, because you can't develop strong fungal webs or cultivate healthy soil bacteria in them because of the limited ecosystem. Your garden soil is easier to keep evenly moist, and because my soil is well cared for, disease pressure is lower. Just something to consider.
I don't think I've ever cloned a dwarf before. Every Dwarf Tomato Project tomato I've ever grown has been so stout that it's never been necessary. I only seem to have problems with indeterminates. They seem to be the weakest of the lot. However, the Dwarf Tomato Project tomatoes sucker just like any other tomato, so as long as you choose a sucker that's 4-8 inches in length, they should root in the same exact way.
This is such a great video! You've identified the problem and gave several concise solutions with explanations with results to show! Keep up the quality content sir!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Super helpful video as usual, thank you! Wish I saw this before I pruned my tomatoes yesterday, suckers are already dried out now. Your soil looks great, what is the soil recipe in this garden bed?
My garden soil is 100% local compost from a place near me called Hoffman Ecoworks. They make their own compost onsite and have an enormous mountain-like pile. I had 20CY dumped in my front lawn and I manually filled my beds with a wheelbarrow.
It doesn't have to be a sucker , I took off a limb that had no blooms , left only a few leaves at top , and put it in a sunny window in a glass of water .2 1/2 weeks , its rooted .
@@nonstopend8436 you wont get fruit
Just sticking that sucker in a glass of water will make it form roots along the stem. Takes a couple of weeks to have a new plant with a load of roots
I'm not a fan of this method. I find the suckers tend to turn yellow around the edges of the leaves, and brown spots can form. It also takes several weeks to do this, and you have to go through this extra step. If you simply cut them and stick them directly in the ground, they'll root more quickly, they won't develop the yellowing and you can eliminate the extra transplant step. Most cuttings have failed for me in water, but directly in ground, I have a 100% success rate.
Put some search terms for "wilt". This video was very informative. Headed out to try to save a couple plants right now.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching!
I live where its pretty hot and humid, i've gotten probably a 85% success rate with planting suckers. I had 6 original plants i lost 3 to blight and have about 6 more rooted suckers off of the remaining healthy plants
Great video with some great information 😉
Does it only have to be a sucker to clone from? Great video!
Great jobs.... Dale too!!
Thanks for watching! Dale is always at his best!
@@TheMillennialGardener U gave time to it.... So trained! Hahh haa. Good luck.
Great video. This information is so helpful. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching.
Good boy Dale!
The Pyrethrin is okay for the bacteria in the soil?
Could you root the sucker in (constantly moist) water? Great idea. I will try to clone my favorite tomatoes.
You can, but you'll need to change the water frequently and make sure your tomatoes are free of disease. If your tomatoes have disease on them, you'll want to start new seed.
Can you root suckers from determinant tomatoes?
I root tomato cuttings every year. Shouldn't' the blossoms of the cutting have been removed so all of the energy in the new plant could go towards root development?
Was going to ask if you were in Brunswick county NC but I saw Wilmington so you must be just north in new Hanover.
I'm in Brunswick County. I say "Wilmington" because people know where that is. I have more detailed location info in the video description and coordinates in the channel description.
Can you use the spray to prevent this from happening. I had 3 plants last year, they just died. They were 4 feet tall. No leaf spot , blight , or anything. I could see. They just started wilting.
That is likely a disease called Bacterial Wilt. Once the tomato gets that, it closes off the plant's ability to uptake water from the roots and it's as good as dead. It's common in areas with sandy soils and high humidity (such as mine). There is nothing you can really do about it. Your best defense is to grow a lot more tomatoes than you need, and to grow many different varieties. Some years, certain varieties do poorly, so it's good to have some backups. I always grow a diverse tomato planting, because something will always grow well if you try different types.
I got a question. Can you grow copys of bell pepper plants just like you did with the tomato plant? 🤔
Sort of. Peppers do not root as easily as tomatoes, because peppers do not root all along the stems like tomatoes do. They aren't covered in those fine hairs like tomatoes are. Peppers root more like a fig cutting, where roots can grow out of the cut line and at nodes. You can clone pepper plants by taking cuttings, removing the leaves, burying them and maintaining the humidity, but they'll probably take 2-3 times longer than a tomato and may benefit from a little rooting hormone.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Impressive!!!
Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the video, any reason you didn't use Root Tone to help it root?
I don't really use rooting hormone. Tomatoes root readily without any.
I’d use willow water to water the cuttings for the added rooting hormone.
Tomato suckers root so quickly and readily, I don't think you need to do anything to them aside from keep moist, maintain humidity and wait a week. They're really, really easy.
@@TheMillennialGardener Craig Lehouller says you can stick them in a glass of water and they'll root also
What about the leaves touching ground. I have been told not to do this. What do you think?
Most tomato disease starts from bacteria and viruses in the soil splashing on the undersides of leaves. It is good practice to remove the lowest few leaf nodes to help prevent this splashing during rain.
Great video. Especially the part about taking the sucker and making another plant. What was the name of the tape you wrapped around the stem of your mother plant? I didn’t quite get it and didn’t see it listed in your items you use. I look forward to reading your reply.
It is an expandable vinyl garden tape. The exact tape is linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description. It's very inexpensive.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you. Found it.
thank you plant science
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, so helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Great video 👏👏
Open tomato heart surgery 😀✌
I have better success rate if I place the sucker in a glass jar with clean water for few days until it has some roots, clearly seen through the glass jar. Then i transplant the sucker to a pot and almost surely will make it.
My apologies, what was the organic product you used to kill off the invaders? Would BT or Neem oil have accomplished the same end result? Do you think the mulch itself brought in the bugs?
The Pyganic brand pyrethrin concentrate I have linked in my Amazon Storefront is broad-spectrum and will kill virtually any insect. BT is only effective against worms and caterpillars, and will not kill any other insects. Neem, for me, has never done anything but burn my plant's leaves. I've never had any success with 100% cold pressed neem oil, and it costs more than the effective, organic pesticides that do work. Spinosad is another excellent, organic, broad-spectrum alternative if you don't want to use pyrethrin.
Awesome vid! I'm definitely a subscriber now!👍🏿
Thanks for subbing! I really appreciate it.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks! You saved me from the cut worms in another video!😃
Why not stick the sucker in water until it roots, and then plant it out into the garden like a transplant?
Nevermind I read a reply you sent to someone else ab rooting in water. I have a couple suckers in a little shot glass with water right now and they’ve started to root. Going to stick them in some seedling trays now
I like the dog. 🐶
Dale is the absolute best! 🐕
Would it increase your chances of cloning if you used a rooting powder before you planted it into the ground?
That isn't really necessary for a tomato, since tomatoes root so readily. The most important thing you need when rooting a tomato is maintaining high humidity and shielding from strong sun until it really gets growing.
@@TheMillennialGardener
I noticed some comments on other channels were people are claiming that you are only supposed to use rooting power or gel on non-edible plants. I had never heard that before, but I was wondering if you, Dr. Tomato, know the low-down on that? ;-)
You might want to prune the blossoms off.
I didn’t feel the need to since it was only a handful. It rooted fine with them left on, and it is doing well.
Do the worms mind the nerve gas?
You may need to pull the mulch away from the tomatoes a little.
Tomatoes love sending surface roots through mulch. I find tomatoes do very well in a mulch layer. Not all annuals do - some struggle - but indeterminate tomatoes do very well with mulch.
👍:)
Thanks for watching!
for me is not necessary the plastic bottle just watwr every evening
The greenhouse should increase your chances of success and speed up the process. You can certainly root the cuttings without it, but I really think it helps.
@@TheMillennialGardener probably but if you have a lot of sun you risck to cook the jung plant, like one owen.
If you leave the cap off, it should vent just fine. The jug will actually block the harsh UV rays of the sun, and it will hold in the humidity, decreasing stress. Unless you live in an extreme environment, like the desert southwest, with very large temperature extremes (in which case you probably are beyond your tomato season, anyway), it should help.
Big mistake making him like strawberries, he's going to want them alllllllllllll
It must've been a fluke with the camera on him. He's back to refusing to eat them again. He is a very good eater, but he won't do strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. It must be the texture with all the lumps and bumps.
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