Audi S4 Front Brake Upgrade | 2 Piece Rotors
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Today we go over installing performance brake pads and rotors in our B8.5 S4. We went with Girodisc 2 Piece Rotors and G-Loc GS1 Pads. This brake kit is intended for street use, but with the Girodisc rotors, we can easily swap out our brake pads with track pads when we are ready to take it on the track. We show the full process of changing the front brake pads and rotors. We will have a rear brake upgrade coming in the near future.
Links Talked about in this video
Front (Girodisc/G-Loc) Brake Kit for S4/S5 (Street) - www.shopdap.co...
G-Loc GS1 front Pad Set - www.shopdap.co...
Front Rotor (2 Piece) Girodisc (345x30mm) - www.shopdap.co...
Front Brake Caliper Bolt
www.shopdap.co...
Front Brake Caliper Carrier Bolt
www.shopdap.co...
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Cornelius NC 28031
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Good Job! There is an inexpensive (less than $20) and easy to use ratcheting tool for compressing front brake pistons which is a much safer and better option.
Always use anti-seize on the set screw for the rotor. I learned this the hard way.
Yup..this set up is free floating caliper..
I just drill em out when I take rotors off that have them. They seize in there regardless over time, plus you can just use a wheel lug nut or two to hold the rotor in place when you put the caliper back on
I made the same mistakes on my maiden voyage with my vehicles brakes- tightening instead of braking the bolts loose. Ended up braking the caliper bracket’s tapped threads off along with the caliper bolt.
Life’s most valuable lessons are learned the hard way.
How did u fix it, made same mistake 😭😭😭
Righty tighty Lefty loosey. When going in from the back its the other way round OBVS.
In the future, use one of the old pads and a ‘c’ clamp. So much easier and no worries of tearing the boot.
I always use a C clamp, I thought that was a standard procedure
and/or damaging the aluminum piston...
dont take you car to nim
Anyone else notice he said "B5 and a half S4" in the beginning of the video Haha, good laugh
Great video thankyou very much all details covered unlike others 👍
a cheap ;C' clamp will work better, and in the hub face a coat of nickel anti seize.. this will prevent rust from glueing the rotor, even aluminum to the hub face.. and also anti seize the set screw... got to love these youtube pro mechanics...( i work as a Classic Italian car tech for the past 13 years..might know what i an writing about here )
Loved the zoom in after breaking loose the left disk, lol. Great vid.
Are all calipers a simple depressing? I think when I did a ‘02 A6- the rear calipers were the twisting as they needed to be depressed.. and need to borrow a brake caliper kit from a friend to complete that task.
Thanks for the video 👍🏻
my 16 jetta had the same twist retract pistons as well
Could you tell me what’s what’s the most common problem on the brakes on an Audi Yes for
Can you remove the rotors ( discs ) if the pads are fine? For example, if the rotor has a lip, can you remove the disc and put back the pads on?
Would you recommend upgrading to stainless steel brake lines as well for the occasional track day ?
read the comments above... then re consider asking advice from this person
I have a pad spreader tool to retract the pistons. Cost about 9 Euros, takes 25 seconds to retract the pads per side.
My C-Clamp costs about $9, which is less than 9 Euros, and it works fine, but I can also use it for clamping when I do MiG welding, and use it for lots of other things.
Without getting into too much detail
What’s the approx weight and disc diameter of the two piece?
Man I thought you have to use brake cleaner prior to installing new rotors to clean off any oils. Also, what about the disengagement of the E Brake? Due to it being an electrical brake I thought you needed to charge the battery while installing new rotors and brakes.
cant you see he's a ' pro '
Sorry, just wanted to ask, how does 12-bolt be 196Nm? the 1-Bolt is def 30Nm, so can you verify this is correct? Thanks and a great video as per usual. Is the set screw a Torx T30 bit?
that's what it states in the manual. I thought the same, wow
Funny that I just seen this video after being mocked at by my Rotors that will not come off!!
Dam rubber mallet broke apart in the process. Hopefully tomorrow I can pull a 8:20 face on my MK7 GTI after that rotor comes off = Enter Hammer Time!
pourquoi n'a-t-il pas le même sens de montage, quand on regarde la vidéo sur le changement de disque arrière droit audi s4 et le changement du disque avant droit audi s4 ils sont montés différemment
Excellent. Thanks!
Replacing the front brake pads doesnt require the use of the OBD function that you used on the rear pads?
The electronic handbrake/parkingbrake or emergency brake is integrated in the rear calipers. These are actuated with a electric motor which stops the caliber from beeing pushed back more than a little for new pads. You basically tell the E-Motor to spin backwards recessing the pistons into the caliper. After finishing you want your parkingbrake working so you tell the E-Motor to close the gap between the pads and the rotor to have sufficient contact that you car does not roll away.
dang yall didnt clean the rust off the hub
I know, right? Or even apply some Hammerite to add some colour...clean it up a little. Great video tho. I'm just wondering if the pads are fine, can you just replace the rotors/ brake discs and reuse the existing pads?
Thanks for this video.
Can I use a 2 piece rotor on my MK7 gti sport with stock caliper??????
Hello, I stumbled across your channel looking for upgrades for MK7 Golf's. I recently picked up a MK7 2015 1.8t Golf S. I found it funny that the 2015 model S makes more torque then following 2016 model (16 more). Any how I would like your prospective on Traditional VW automatic against the DSG. Should have I coughed up the extra 5k/6k for a DSG? Is the standard auto even comparable with performance and modification to the DSG? How much would a DSG swap cost? OR am I just over thinking everything
going to talk about on AskDAP 133
thank you!
Great video 👍 very helpful
“Hammer time” Ha! Good vid...thanks for putting it together.
For those that point out the channel lock vs c-clamp, he did mention there are other ways but he did this as more people are prob going to have a set of channel locks vs a c-clamp. With that being said, they are cheap and if you are doing your own brakes, they are worth the investment in your tool box.
Do you have the torque specs for the rear brakes too somewhere??
Can i use EBC yellow bads on street? or just stick with red.
It's so funny how basic the S4 brakes look and yet they work crazy well.
Yes, it's only single piston but the stopping distances they generate especially considering how heavy the car can be is up there with even more focused performance cars. The downfall of these style brakes is really the heat dissipation, they can't withstand many hard stops in succession without getting cooked. Steel lines, new pads, vented rotors, and fluid go a long way though.
@@tuneman7688 I drive on the Autobahn and over Alpine passes with a fully loaded car for holidays and never lost the S4 brakes. The car originally had 320s, so I did the upgrade after they warped. They simply couldn't handle mountain passes at moderate speeds with a loaded cargo area. The 345s went on and never looked back. The primary driving is on the Autobahn and it's not all nice like people think: it's mostly one going all out and then someone doing 80kmh pulling in front of you. So doing 240-250 is commonplace as are sudden speed control zones, so 240- 100 or less in no time. I've never had the S4 rotos let me down, even repeat panic stops on the Autobahn. In fact, two summers ago, repeated panic stops and I never lost the brakes before I boiled the fluid and had a soft pedal. The only real problem I had was that the S4 rotors were vaned only one way- no right and left, but were still directional. The first Brembo replacements I got were the same thing and it makes a difference. The replacements for those are non-directional in a running update Brembo did.
Also reminds me I was driving from Chamonix to Switzerland last year, fully loaded car and bikes on the back, down a mountain pass. At the bottom, the brakes were smoking, presumably with some fire I couldn't see in the sun. I never lost the brakes. They smoked and people thought the car was on fire, but I just smoked the brakes. That pad set and rotors are still on the car right now.
Correct me if I am wrong. The rotors are sided and in this demonstration they are on the wrong side!!
You are wrong. You've been corrected. :)
can i use blue loctite on both caliper and carrier bolts instead of replacing them?
It's stated that the carrier bolts are "Torque to Yield" bolts - here's the "official" word on those: (TTY) or stretch bolt is a fastener which is torqued beyond the state of elasticity and therefore undergoes plastic deformation, causing it to become permanently elongated. Once stretched, they are not as strong as before. Consequently, they cannot provide the same amount of clamping force and may break or shear off if reused. The manual says to replace them. I know people that have reused them without incident - your mileage may vary!
Great video! Love the quirkiness. As a next brake grade upgrade step would you do the Tyrolsport caliper bushings and SS brake lines?
No, save up until you can get a static caliper and more aggressive pads/rotors
Would you use a synthetic grease on the back of the pads?
Yes, the back, not the front of the pads.
Question can b8 s4 caliper fits on mk7 golf r?
Does a parts search engine show the same parts fit that vehicle? Why are you asking someone on UA-cam instead of looking it up yourself?
Is this the same as B8.5 Q5 3.0T?
No
Bud, you installed the passenger rotor on the drivers side. Gotta mention to viewers that vented rotors are directional.
The rotors look like they are installed correctly. The slotted rotors are something that many people get backwards when it comes to L/F. They way that they are installed in this video is the correct method.
some
it's the internal veining that determines that
@@mattn5160 bonjour pourquoi sur l'autre vidéo les freins arrières audi s4 coté droit il est monté dans l'autre sens
Way to not tell anyone to clean their hub before putting on the new rotor(rolling eyes). Cleanliness between the hub and rotor mating surfaces is crucial in preventing induced run-out.
Also, don't smack the hammer on the hub, regardless... I've only ever used a rubber mallet and smacked from the backside of the rotor on the face. A BFH may be needed if a rubber mallet doesn't work. Smacking the hammer on the hub area can again, induce run-out.
And, put Loc-tite on the carrier bolts!
I also bet you have the squeakiest brakes ever. No preventative measures to reduce noise were shown. Rookies!
yeah - What about brake pad lube on the back side?
LOCK = LOCK
LOC = LOC (which should sound like) LOWK.
Those are G - Locs (G Lowks)
No offense but even with simple tools .. there are better methods for recessing the brake piston.. useing the old pads is one
I use a c clamp and the old pads ... Channel locks by design will bite and tear what ever you apply em too.
I know .
Another keyboard mechanic .. but damn that was stupid as stated , You can damage the rubber boot .. don't teach others that ..
I second that C clamp would be so much faster and safer
Good comment!!!
Ear protection dude! Your future self will thank you
He wasn't doing anything loud for any sustained period of time. Why would you put hearing protection on, in your opinion?
I said it in another video, you should not skip steps and use the wrong tools... there is not one video where there are not atleast 3-4 big mistakes...
You were in the process of making mistakes while you typed that comment about him making mistakes. Good luck figuring out basic things in life.
Dude!!! screwdriver on painted calipers, compressing the piston with that stupid tool...you get the T1000 finger wag for your bad practice.
That stupid tool? I bet you've never picked up a tool in your life if you don't recognize it. They don't make men like they used to....Hahahah
For everyone who is watching this video, you should just go straight to a set of Big brake Kit. The factory brake are just junk. They are pain in the ass to swap pads comparing with a BBK. And they are heavy as hell. The calipers just don't have the heat capacity. It is really easy to overhead the brake fluid. The Stoptect six-piston big brake kit I bought cost $2400. I know they are not cheap. But it is worth ever penny, It is the third set of Stoptech BBK I bought.
For everyone who is *made of money
Fixed that for you.
The Girodisc two-piece rotor costs $800 per set. And they dont fix the problem at all.
I thought the same. I have like the same front brake only smaller for my 69hp car :'D
but my original rs5 brake is gud enough i just need disc......
Did you say B5 and a half S4? 😂
He said "B 8 and a half." You can always rewind the video, it's still there! But you wrote the comment before even verifying that's what he said. Children these days.
@@tcolondovich2996 nope dont know what your talking about dude, he clearly says B5 and a half...not that it matters, but it clearly does to you, to go through and read the comments and then rewatch to try amd prove someone wrong on a comment on UA-cam. And children these days? Really?
@@rubberskilla2991 I watched the same video as you, and heard b8.5, which is what it is. Say what you want. "clearly it does to you..." LOL you're funny. Half-assed attempt at an insult.
no grease at the sliding areas of the pads.... no cleaning of the hub before the mounting the disc... Hope you do not work like this on costumer cars.
I really wonder if this guy had any clue what he’s doing?