Hi Johnny, Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your demos , I'm a sculptor that has loved Paper mache for many years , but have just started to want to get away from bronze and get back to basics . Thanks for Sharing .Eugene Daub
Thank you so much! I had just gotten mold on my papier mache and i was really bummed out. It was my first time making papier mache.This really helped me out!
I'm experimenting with mold forming now. Just to see what happens. Some thin, some thick paper mache and even some solid forms. After they have dried I will put a batch (some sealed some not) in a plastic bag with a wet rag. I'm the curious type. I also tried salt and bleach. And I am storing some fresh clay in cellophane in my fridge. Been almost a week now and still looks pretty much like fresh cheese. I have already found that adding salt seems to help the flow of the surface when you smooth it out. I'm also experimenting with using an kitchen oven to dry them extra fast. A convection oven set to 40 C (100 F) seems to work very well. Totally forgot to video log the whole thing. I may have to repeat the whole process just to show you my findings. ;-)
Thank you so much! I am just starting out and you have answered a myriad of questions going through my mind!! You are very much appreciated!! I love your beautiful work! Such an inspiration!!
Wonderful and very helpful video Mam. I have made a house with paper mash and after a week from completing the house I found mold on it. So now can you suggest me what should I do now.
It sounds like your paper mache house didn't dry completely, or wasn't sealed with varnish after it was sealed. If you live in a very humid place, paper mache can be very challenging. It might be possible to kill the mold by putting the house in an oven at around 250° F (121.111° C) for half an hour. But the mold will come back if the house can still absorb water from the air.
@@UltimatePaperMache First thank you very much for replying Mam. Second I am totally agree with you about the coming back of the mold. This is what happening with my house. I am leaving in India and now we are facing monsoon. I think that is why this all happening. Can I put that work beside of fireplace and if I try this is it going to effect the work?
Ms. Johnie, Thank you for the good & honest advice. I've discovered the very same issue over the years & as I live in the Southeast the humidity plays an important factor in the appearance of molds. If folks want more info on molds such as types & causes they can simply Google " Mold " for plenty of information on the specifics. Your work is simply beautiful. I am an artist who has been really very sickly &your updates & projects allow me to see what I would ordinarily be doing in one form or another.. Thank you for your time & imstruction, your lovely talent & creativity.
You're welcome. For people in really humid climates, you might try the Elmer's Art Paste, made from methyl cellulose. The paste itself sat in my house for weeks without showing any signs of growing mold, and a reader from Georgia confirmed that the art paste will keep mold from growing on the paste while the piece is still damp. You would still have to dry the piece quickly and seal it, though.
This might be a dumb question, but i often use a humidifier in the room where I have a paper mache piece that has already been painted and sealed. Is this bad for it?
I made your elephant & (thought I'd left it long enough to dry each layer but obviously not!!) I painted it a couple of days ago & thought it was grease coming through the bottom of the legs / feet but it must be mould from the wetness flowing downwards & not drying! Argh! It's too big to fit in my oven too!! Could it perhaps dry if left shut in my conservatory for a week or so while it's rather warm here? (England) or am I going to have to do some severe chopping & rescuing of the head and body top area? :D
tanya simone Ok I've cut a big hole in her belly and pulled all the paper & card out so she is completely hollow, the feet were unsealed at the bottom too & have a hole in the bottoms. I've got my fan blowing into the belly which is circulating through & out of the leg holes. Fingers crossed she will dry out properly now from the inside. It must be damp somewhere inside because it smells like chicken coops now it's all opened up!!
tanya simone Tanya, it sounds like you have the situation under control. Since it's now hollow and the fan is blowing, it should get dry all the way through. The smell should go away when it's completely dry - hopefully. ;)
The smell had gone completely after 1 day. It's in the hot conservatory now so I will see how it goes! Thanks for replying, your videos are so fun (and I like how impatient you are sometimes with waiting for things!) :)
Mold needs water, so the only way to keep it from happening is to keep your paper mache absolutely dry during storage. Don't stick it up in the attic or in a damp basement, for instance. If it stays dry it shouldn't get moldy.
Hi!! I've been watching your videos and I'd like to thank you for the expert information on all your videos. They're very helpful. I just finished doing my clay sculpture and about to do the paper mache-ing, though i'm not so sure about the recipe.. I want this paper mache work to be extra strong, so, i thought maybe i could add some plaster of paris to the mix.. Have you ever tried this before?
I use a paste made with Elmer's glue and Plaster of Paris for my masks, and it works really well. For the paper, I use the blue shop towels from the hardware store. Even a few layers is really strong.
Hi Jonni! Thanks for the response.. thank you I've found your gesso recipe video some days ago. So i did that! The problem is that the plaster I used sets so fast--maybe I'm slow or maybe because it's very warm in here (Philippines) but I made it, so thanks a lot!
Do you think putting a paper mache sculpture into a dehydrator. Then paint it then seal it with a clear matte spray for crafts, would be a good way to make sure it doesnt mold?
I've never had a problem with an artists' acrylic varnish getting yellow. I've used Liquatex, Golden and Deco Arts (their "soft" varnish is my favorite) with no problems. If someone mentions that their varnish yellowed, ask them what brand they used so you can use something else.
very helpful video and timely as i've been wondering about the mold issue. after i work, applying thin layers, i place the work under a warm lamp for a while and don't add anything for a couple of days. question: if there is potential for mold to grow how long before i might expect to see something. as always, thanks for your great site and videos and for introducing me to to this exciting medium.
How long it takes depends on how many spores are naturally in the air, and the temperature and humidity of the air. That's a question that kind of needs a scientist to answer, and I'm not a scientist. Also, I have no experience with mold growing on paper mache, since I follow the advice I gave in the video. Another view suggested doing a google search for mold, and that might help. I suppose you could run an experiment and just leave the wet paste itself out on the kitchen counter, uncovered, and see how long it takes for fungi to start growing. Yeast would move in first, of course, so that might not give a good result.
Have you tried “damp rid” in the drying room or container to pull moisture out faster? I think I might try it. Here in humid southeast Florida moisture is a problem.
Hi Suzie. I haven't tried that, but here in Minnesota it isn't usually difficult to get paper mache to dry quickly, as long as you use a fan. For Florida and other humid areas, that might be a great idea. Let us know if it helps!
If size permits, can the sculptures be put in a low temp oven to dry? And what sealant do you find works best without yellowing!? Thanks ! This is so exciting ! I've been away from mask making for awhile! It has called be back! So glad I came across your tutorials!!
Hi Donna. You can put the sculptures in an oven, but keep the temp at 200° F or below. The glue smells bad if you get it too hot. I've found that small pieces actually dry faster if you put them in front of a fan. I have never had any trouble with yellowing when I use acrylic varnish, so any brand should do. I currently like the DecoArt Soft Touch varnish, because it feels so nice. I get it on amazon: amzn.to/2nze1q8
Hi. I put mine in the oven after they have dried. Surface mold dies at 160F for 20 minutes. I put mine on 200 for 45, because i sculpt pumpkins and are a little thicker. I have never lost one to mold after doing this. Just wipe your oven out after finish, but we have an old spare one.
Jonni, since deep excess wetness is what sometimes causes the paper mache to mold. What if, after the armature is covered with crushed paper and masking tape, as an added step, the artist wrapped the entire project with self clinging plastic wrap (saran wrap). On large projects making sure the plastic wrap overlapped each of the plastic wrap seams by two or three inches. Since it is self clinging it would be a way of waterproofing all the crushed paper and masking tape, so the moisture would be stopped before going deeper. Then the strips of wet glued newspaper could be added, still making sure each thin layer was thoroughly dried before adding the next layer. Perhaps on small art projects it wouldn't matter, but for my first project, I am working on your pattern of the thirty inch high Baby Elephant and the thought of deep wetness could certain be a problem for me. Anyway, do you know if anyone has tried this method and if so was it successful? I may give it a try.
I don't know if anyone has tried it or not. If water does get deep inside a sculpture, that would certainly be a problem. However, if the paper mache itself is dry, and it's sealed, and the sculpture is kept in the house, I can't see how the water would get in. Unless you live in a really humid area, perhaps, where it's really hard to get anything to stay dry. My baby elephant just went through a very humid summer -fungus killed all my tomato plants because it was so damp :( - but the elephant suffered no damage. However, putting plastic over the tape shouldn't hurt anything.
Thanks for the information Jonni. I live in a very dry area, Amarillo, Texas. Maybe I don't have anything to worry about when it comes to mold. I do plan on keeping my elephant indoor and will make sure each layer of paper mache dries thoroughly. I will let you know how it turns out, but more than likely I won't need to use the plastic wrap as a water bearer.
Very informative, thanks! I make papermache masks that cover the whole head. These masks are used for dancing. Dancers do get sweaty and heavy humid breathing does accumulate underneath the mask. Do you recommend an alternative recipe that prevents mould? Possibly like a watered down glue recipe?
Sonal Agrawal I don't know about health issues. I think some people are allergic to mold. You might be able to save the piece by putting it in the oven. According to one website I read, 340F (170C) for one hour will kill almost all fungi spores. One big question, though, is why the piece got moldy in the first place. If the sculpture wasn't sealed with a good varnish, or if it's in a very humid environment, new mold might start growing again as soon as you get rid of the old mold. Mold can't grow without water, so something is making the paper mache wet, or it stayed wet too long after it was made. Your son might want to start over with a new sculpture, and make sure it dries quickly. Then seal it well with a good varnish to keep the paper dry.
You could try adding in some collodial silver in the water, or lugol's iodine, cinnamon, and those probably wouldn't alter the consistency of the clay material. Boric acid would probably work, and stop insects, too. You just have to use more caution with that.
MelodyFixation No, I don't bother to let each layer dry. If you apply wet paper mache over dry paper mache, the first dry layer soaks up the water, so you now have two wet layers. I do try to make sure my paper mache dries as fast as possible, by putting it in front of a fan. I also use the minimum number of layers needed, and I only use as much paste as needed. Since the bottom layers take longer to dry than the top layers (even if you do let them dry between layers) you need to leave the sculpture in front of a fan until it's dry all the way through.
Do you know how I could make a mold for a paper mache releif sculpture to be cast with plaster? In order to make a plaster copy of a paper mache sculpture.
Hi John. I don't know anything about sand molds, but if there aren't any undercuts in the original I suppose it could work. Plaster of Paris will soak into dry paper mache, and you'll never get them apart unless you use a release. If you use any kind of oil, you might not be able to get it off the original if you need to. Even a silicone mold will need the paper mache to be sealed, and perhaps a release of some kind.
Alright. Thanks. What do you think about a masking type of glue. The type airbrush artists apply on paper. Maybe that or something of the sort could work on a paper mache object. To sort of water proof it temporarily.
I haven't tried it - I think you'll need to do some experiments to see if it will work. Do you have something that you could play around with, and not worry if your first experiments don't work?
I think there will be a guest post on my blog in the next few days by a lady who has successfully made waterproof paper mache. I'll add a note to this comment to let you know when it's published, and give you a link. I'm really looking forward to seeing how she did it.
A lot of people use salt. Lots of other people use oil of clove. I don't use anything like taht because you don't need it if you dry the paper mache right away. Mold can't grow without water.
@@UltimatePaperMache thank you so very much. right now i am using a recipe of vinegar (instead of water), glue, and flour. do you think that might work, or does vinegar make glues less potent? I was hoping the vinegar would make mold less likely. If you don't mind another question: would you mind giving me a word about when you would use joint compound as opposed to plaster of paris for sculpting details? ...you are a wonderful source of info. thanks!
@@ilana.simons I have never tried using vinegar instead of water, so I don't know how it will affect the glue. I also don't mix glue into my flour and water paste. You might need to ask someone else who has more experience with the paste recipe you're using. I rarely use either joint compound or plaster for details, because I use my paper mache clay recipe instead. It's much stronger. I do use joint compound sometimes to make an area smoother when I use paper strips and paste, but I usually cover it with another layer of paper mache or coat it with acrylic gesso, to keep it from cracking when the paper mache flexes.
I live in Hawaii where it is very humid. If one so much as spills a little salt on the table by the next morning it has become droplets of water. Salt drags moisture from the air, therefore I think it would not be a good idea to add it as a dehumidifying agent as it would have the opposite effect. I made some pieces out of flour and salt dough and they completely disintegrated when I brought them to Hawaii. They had survived in Southern California for over 50 years! I haven’t put this to the test yet but I would think that getting a paper mache piece first thoroughly dry (perhaps in an over or with the help of a hair dryer or heat gun) and then sealing it with acrylic gesso, paint, and varnish would help prevent the piece from absorbing enough moisture from the air to foster mold growth.
Jonni, I use a commercial product because it's easier for me. I have found that turning a fan on it as I go through my production process makes it much easier to get things realllly dry. Most of my Santas and Gnomes sit around for weeks before gesso ingredients. Then they sit again since the gesso makes things slightly moist again. One thing we don't worry about at our house is dry air. 😂
just made some paper mache. i havent added anything to it yet. i squeezed the water out & crumbled it in a big plastic jar. so its only somewhat damp. what can i do so it wont mold on me.or is it ok like that until i add the glue & etc.. can anyone give me aany idea.
Put the paper in the freezer. It's the only thing that will keep it from getting stinky over the long run. Bleach or oil of clove will slow down mold, but it won't stop it the way the freezer will.
Yes, that does work. I do that all the time. You still need to dry it quickly, though, because the bleach will eventually evaporate, and new mold spores can move in from the air.
I just wish to add that some of the older paper mache forms (even tables) were high heated and some under pressure. I had bought a "collectible" Paper Mache Table for not very much at a local place in NYC. (one in 1980 could find these at the local goodwill and other such outlets). I could not understand the product lasting sooooooo long, and was super tough and durable. I did some research (back in NYC at the research library). I moved and sold/tithed many of my books so "if memory serves". (30 years ago). Note the "tar spirit" (one can google this now but one has to search for those that don't pay to have their information "up front") Before the www, only research at the library and my old moulage books would inform one as to what this was." Papier Mache Production www.papiermache.co.uk/articles/victorian-papier-mache/ "The making of papier mache items, in particular, the pieces of furniture, involved many hours of work and relied upon an almost limitless supply of cheap labour. Very large sheets of black paper were pasted on both sides and firmly pressed over greased moulds. (After having been dipped in large shallow vats of tar spirit and linseed oil). Care was taken to smooth out the surface and remove any trapped air bubbles. After 2 or 3 layers had been applied, the edges would be trimmed and the item baked in a hot oven. The object would be built up in this way, continually repeating the three layers and baking until the final thickness was met. Some articles had as many as 100 layers of paper by the time they were finished! Once thoroughly dry, the item was saturated in linseed oil and baked in a very hot oven for many hours to make it hard and water-resistant." Another great link on paper mache of past. antiquesqa.blogspot.com/2015/10/tear-and-paste.html .................. As well, I could not understand ancient War Armour made out of paper - so research showed this form of paper is not what we think of it today. Their war costumes were tough and durable. Now selling on Ebay for several hundreds and more. Here is an example of one. Antique 19th C MOTHER OF PEARL Inlaid PAPER MACHE Lift Top TRAY Coffee TABLE www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-19th-C-MOTHER-OF-PEARL-Inlaid-PAPER-MACHE-Lift-Top-TRAY-Coffee-TABLE/283350482352?hash=item41f9013db0:g:UQUAAOSwxZxcDsQb Interesting link for additives, some funny and some such as insect repellant and anti-mold very useful. (often older sources prove very useful). The older resin mentioned was most likely the lac bug resin (not the synthetic and highly toxic resins of today). www.papiermache.co.uk/articles/history-of-papier-mache/
Yes, that's what I've heard. It does sound like a lovely place, though. If I lived there, I might switch to Apoxie Sculpt so I wouldn't have to worry about the damp.
I think we may live in different countries. Here in the US, mold is the normal spelling for a type of fungus - and it's also the spelling for molds used for casting.
Hi Johnny, Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your demos , I'm a sculptor
that has loved Paper mache for many years , but have just started to want to
get away from bronze and get back to basics . Thanks for Sharing .Eugene Daub
You're welcome, Eugene. Have fun!
Thank you so much! I had just gotten mold on my papier mache and i was really bummed out. It was my first time making papier mache.This really helped me out!
Glad I could help! 😀
I'm experimenting with mold forming now. Just to see what happens. Some thin, some thick paper mache and even some solid forms. After they have dried I will put a batch (some sealed some not) in a plastic bag with a wet rag. I'm the curious type. I also tried salt and bleach. And I am storing some fresh clay in cellophane in my fridge. Been almost a week now and still looks pretty much like fresh cheese.
I have already found that adding salt seems to help the flow of the surface when you smooth it out. I'm also experimenting with using an kitchen oven to dry them extra fast. A convection oven set to 40 C (100 F) seems to work very well.
Totally forgot to video log the whole thing. I may have to repeat the whole process just to show you my findings. ;-)
I do hope you'll keep us posted. I love experiments!
That's the main idea. ;-)
Did you do the coyote/wolf in your background? I'd love to see a how to video on it!
Matthew Lawrence Yes, there's a video series about the wolf. they start with this one: ua-cam.com/video/ajzIKsmrUJ0/v-deo.html
Thank you so much! I am just starting out and you have answered a myriad of questions going through my mind!! You are very much appreciated!! I love your beautiful work! Such an inspiration!!
I'm glad you're enjoying the channel. 😀
Wonderful and very helpful video Mam. I have made a house with paper mash and after a week from completing the house I found mold on it. So now can you suggest me what should I do now.
It sounds like your paper mache house didn't dry completely, or wasn't sealed with varnish after it was sealed. If you live in a very humid place, paper mache can be very challenging. It might be possible to kill the mold by putting the house in an oven at around 250° F (121.111° C) for half an hour. But the mold will come back if the house can still absorb water from the air.
@@UltimatePaperMache First thank you very much for replying Mam. Second I am totally agree with you about the coming back of the mold. This is what happening with my house. I am leaving in India and now we are facing monsoon. I think that is why this all happening. Can I put that work beside of fireplace and if I try this is it going to effect the work?
Ms. Johnie, Thank you for the good & honest advice. I've discovered the very same issue over the years & as I live in the Southeast the humidity plays an important factor in the appearance of molds.
If folks want more info on molds such as types & causes they can simply Google " Mold " for plenty of information on the specifics.
Your work is simply beautiful. I am an artist who has been really very sickly &your updates & projects allow me to see what I would ordinarily be doing in one form or another..
Thank you for your time & imstruction, your lovely talent & creativity.
You're welcome. For people in really humid climates, you might try the Elmer's Art Paste, made from methyl cellulose. The paste itself sat in my house for weeks without showing any signs of growing mold, and a reader from Georgia confirmed that the art paste will keep mold from growing on the paste while the piece is still damp. You would still have to dry the piece quickly and seal it, though.
This might be a dumb question, but i often use a humidifier in the room where I have a paper mache piece that has already been painted and sealed. Is this bad for it?
I made your elephant & (thought I'd left it long enough to dry each layer but obviously not!!) I painted it a couple of days ago & thought it was grease coming through the bottom of the legs / feet but it must be mould from the wetness flowing downwards & not drying! Argh! It's too big to fit in my oven too!! Could it perhaps dry if left shut in my conservatory for a week or so while it's rather warm here? (England) or am I going to have to do some severe chopping & rescuing of the head and body top area? :D
tanya simone Ok I've cut a big hole in her belly and pulled all the paper & card out so she is completely hollow, the feet were unsealed at the bottom too & have a hole in the bottoms. I've got my fan blowing into the belly which is circulating through & out of the leg holes. Fingers crossed she will dry out properly now from the inside. It must be damp somewhere inside because it smells like chicken coops now it's all opened up!!
tanya simone Tanya, it sounds like you have the situation under control. Since it's now hollow and the fan is blowing, it should get dry all the way through. The smell should go away when it's completely dry - hopefully. ;)
The smell had gone completely after 1 day. It's in the hot conservatory now so I will see how it goes! Thanks for replying, your videos are so fun (and I like how impatient you are sometimes with waiting for things!) :)
Excellent information. Thank you for sharing these tips. What might you suggest to prevent mold when storing?
Mold needs water, so the only way to keep it from happening is to keep your paper mache absolutely dry during storage. Don't stick it up in the attic or in a damp basement, for instance. If it stays dry it shouldn't get moldy.
Hi!! I've been watching your videos and I'd like to thank you for the expert information on all your videos. They're very helpful. I just finished doing my clay sculpture and about to do the paper mache-ing, though i'm not so sure about the recipe.. I want this paper mache work to be extra strong, so, i thought maybe i could add some plaster of paris to the mix.. Have you ever tried this before?
I use a paste made with Elmer's glue and Plaster of Paris for my masks, and it works really well. For the paper, I use the blue shop towels from the hardware store. Even a few layers is really strong.
Hi Jonni! Thanks for the response.. thank you I've found your gesso recipe video some days ago. So i did that! The problem is that the plaster I used sets so fast--maybe I'm slow or maybe because it's very warm in here (Philippines) but I made it, so thanks a lot!
Do you think putting a paper mache sculpture into a dehydrator. Then paint it then seal it with a clear matte spray for crafts, would be a good way to make sure it doesnt mold?
That might work.
Great video.. Thank you!
Do you have any particular sealers that you would recommend? Sounds like some may cause yellowing. Thanks!
I've never had a problem with an artists' acrylic varnish getting yellow. I've used Liquatex, Golden and Deco Arts (their "soft" varnish is my favorite) with no problems. If someone mentions that their varnish yellowed, ask them what brand they used so you can use something else.
very helpful video and timely as i've been wondering about the mold issue. after i work, applying thin layers, i place the work under a warm lamp for a while and don't add anything for a couple of days. question: if there is potential for mold to grow how long before i might expect to see something. as always, thanks for your great site and videos and for introducing me to to this exciting medium.
How long it takes depends on how many spores are naturally in the air, and the temperature and humidity of the air. That's a question that kind of needs a scientist to answer, and I'm not a scientist. Also, I have no experience with mold growing on paper mache, since I follow the advice I gave in the video. Another view suggested doing a google search for mold, and that might help. I suppose you could run an experiment and just leave the wet paste itself out on the kitchen counter, uncovered, and see how long it takes for fungi to start growing. Yeast would move in first, of course, so that might not give a good result.
Have you tried “damp rid” in the drying room or container to pull moisture out faster? I think I might try it. Here in humid southeast Florida moisture is a problem.
Hi Suzie. I haven't tried that, but here in Minnesota it isn't usually difficult to get paper mache to dry quickly, as long as you use a fan. For Florida and other humid areas, that might be a great idea. Let us know if it helps!
If size permits, can the sculptures be put in a low temp oven to dry? And what sealant do you find works best without yellowing!? Thanks ! This is so exciting ! I've been away from mask making for awhile! It has called be back! So glad I came across your tutorials!!
Hi Donna. You can put the sculptures in an oven, but keep the temp at 200° F or below. The glue smells bad if you get it too hot. I've found that small pieces actually dry faster if you put them in front of a fan. I have never had any trouble with yellowing when I use acrylic varnish, so any brand should do. I currently like the DecoArt Soft Touch varnish, because it feels so nice. I get it on amazon: amzn.to/2nze1q8
Hi. I put mine in the oven after they have dried. Surface mold dies at 160F for 20 minutes. I put mine on 200 for 45, because i sculpt pumpkins and are a little thicker. I have never lost one to mold after doing this. Just wipe your oven out after finish, but we have an old spare one.
Jonni, since deep excess wetness is what sometimes causes the paper mache to mold. What if, after the armature is covered with crushed paper and masking tape, as an added step, the artist wrapped the entire project with self clinging plastic wrap (saran wrap). On large projects making sure the plastic wrap overlapped each of the plastic wrap seams by two or three inches. Since it is self clinging it would be a way of waterproofing all the crushed paper and masking tape, so the moisture would be stopped before going deeper. Then the strips of wet glued newspaper could be added, still making sure each thin layer was thoroughly dried before adding the next layer. Perhaps on small art projects it wouldn't matter, but for my first project, I am working on your pattern of the thirty inch high Baby Elephant and the thought of deep wetness could certain be a problem for me. Anyway, do you know if anyone has tried this method and if so was it successful? I may give it a try.
I don't know if anyone has tried it or not. If water does get deep inside a sculpture, that would certainly be a problem. However, if the paper mache itself is dry, and it's sealed, and the sculpture is kept in the house, I can't see how the water would get in. Unless you live in a really humid area, perhaps, where it's really hard to get anything to stay dry. My baby elephant just went through a very humid summer -fungus killed all my tomato plants because it was so damp :( - but the elephant suffered no damage. However, putting plastic over the tape shouldn't hurt anything.
Thanks for the information Jonni. I live in a very dry area, Amarillo, Texas. Maybe I don't have anything to worry about when it comes to mold. I do plan on keeping my elephant indoor and will make sure each layer of paper mache dries thoroughly. I will let you know how it turns out, but more than likely I won't need to use the plastic wrap as a water bearer.
Very informative, thanks! I make papermache masks that cover the whole head. These masks are used for dancing. Dancers do get sweaty and heavy humid breathing does accumulate underneath the mask. Do you recommend an alternative recipe that prevents mould? Possibly like a watered down glue recipe?
You might try Elmer's Art Paste. Mold doesn't seem to like it.
Ultimate Paper Mache thanks!
My son's paper mache project got moldy.. pls suggest how to get rid of that nasty mold.. is it bad for health and i should just throw it away?
Sonal Agrawal I don't know about health issues. I think some people are allergic to mold. You might be able to save the piece by putting it in the oven. According to one website I read, 340F (170C) for one hour will kill almost all fungi spores. One big question, though, is why the piece got moldy in the first place. If the sculpture wasn't sealed with a good varnish, or if it's in a very humid environment, new mold might start growing again as soon as you get rid of the old mold. Mold can't grow without water, so something is making the paper mache wet, or it stayed wet too long after it was made. Your son might want to start over with a new sculpture, and make sure it dries quickly. Then seal it well with a good varnish to keep the paper dry.
You could try adding in some collodial silver in the water, or lugol's iodine, cinnamon, and those probably wouldn't alter the consistency of the clay material. Boric acid would probably work, and stop insects, too. You just have to use more caution with that.
Do you let your sculptures dry 2 days between each layer? What is your process?
MelodyFixation No, I don't bother to let each layer dry. If you apply wet paper mache over dry paper mache, the first dry layer soaks up the water, so you now have two wet layers. I do try to make sure my paper mache dries as fast as possible, by putting it in front of a fan. I also use the minimum number of layers needed, and I only use as much paste as needed. Since the bottom layers take longer to dry than the top layers (even if you do let them dry between layers) you need to leave the sculpture in front of a fan until it's dry all the way through.
Do you know how I could make a mold for a paper mache releif sculpture to be cast with plaster? In order to make a plaster copy of a paper mache sculpture.
Is it possible to make a sand mold from a paper mache sculpture. To be later cast with plaster?
Hi John. I don't know anything about sand molds, but if there aren't any undercuts in the original I suppose it could work. Plaster of Paris will soak into dry paper mache, and you'll never get them apart unless you use a release. If you use any kind of oil, you might not be able to get it off the original if you need to. Even a silicone mold will need the paper mache to be sealed, and perhaps a release of some kind.
Alright. Thanks. What do you think about a masking type of glue. The type airbrush artists apply on paper. Maybe that or something of the sort could work on a paper mache object. To sort of water proof it temporarily.
I haven't tried it - I think you'll need to do some experiments to see if it will work. Do you have something that you could play around with, and not worry if your first experiments don't work?
Ok. Thanks. Take care.
I want to paper mache a 16' weather balloon - outside. Any sugestions?
I think there will be a guest post on my blog in the next few days by a lady who has successfully made waterproof paper mache. I'll add a note to this comment to let you know when it's published, and give you a link. I'm really looking forward to seeing how she did it.
Thank you, By the way ever work with tyvec - like usps envelopes?
does adding salt, baking soda, or bleach to the mixture help? which would you most recommend?
A lot of people use salt. Lots of other people use oil of clove. I don't use anything like taht because you don't need it if you dry the paper mache right away. Mold can't grow without water.
@@UltimatePaperMache thank you so very much. right now i am using a recipe of vinegar (instead of water), glue, and flour. do you think that might work, or does vinegar make glues less potent? I was hoping the vinegar would make mold less likely. If you don't mind another question: would you mind giving me a word about when you would use joint compound as opposed to plaster of paris for sculpting details? ...you are a wonderful source of info. thanks!
@@ilana.simons I have never tried using vinegar instead of water, so I don't know how it will affect the glue. I also don't mix glue into my flour and water paste. You might need to ask someone else who has more experience with the paste recipe you're using. I rarely use either joint compound or plaster for details, because I use my paper mache clay recipe instead. It's much stronger. I do use joint compound sometimes to make an area smoother when I use paper strips and paste, but I usually cover it with another layer of paper mache or coat it with acrylic gesso, to keep it from cracking when the paper mache flexes.
@@UltimatePaperMache thank you very much. so far, the vinegar mixture is working well. i look forward to trying your paper mache clay recipe.
I live in Hawaii where it is very humid. If one so much as spills a little salt on the table by the next morning it has become droplets of water. Salt drags moisture from the air, therefore I think it would not be a good idea to add it as a dehumidifying agent as it would have the opposite effect. I made some pieces out of flour and salt dough and they completely disintegrated when I brought them to Hawaii. They had survived in Southern California for over 50 years! I haven’t put this to the test yet but I would think that getting a paper mache piece first thoroughly dry (perhaps in an over or with the help of a hair dryer or heat gun) and then sealing it with acrylic gesso, paint, and varnish would help prevent the piece from absorbing enough moisture from the air to foster mold growth.
Exactly what I needed to know!! Thank you for this helpful video😊
You're welcome.
You're welcome. :)
Jonni, I use a commercial product because it's easier for me. I have found that turning a fan on it as I go through my production process makes it much easier to get things realllly dry. Most of my Santas and Gnomes sit around for weeks before gesso ingredients. Then they sit again since the gesso makes things slightly moist again. One thing we don't worry about at our house is dry air. 😂
gessoing
just made some paper mache. i havent added anything to it yet. i squeezed the water out & crumbled it in a big plastic jar. so its only somewhat damp. what can i do so it wont mold on me.or is it ok like that until i add the glue & etc.. can anyone give me aany idea.
Put the paper in the freezer. It's the only thing that will keep it from getting stinky over the long run. Bleach or oil of clove will slow down mold, but it won't stop it the way the freezer will.
I'm enjoying watching your videos!
Can we add a little bit of bleach to prevent mold?
Yes, that does work. I do that all the time. You still need to dry it quickly, though, because the bleach will eventually evaporate, and new mold spores can move in from the air.
Fantastic information!!!👍
😊
Good to know
😁
thanks! :)
You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Can we add boric add
+Gayatri S A I don't know. You could try it, if you can do it safely.
I’m new to this, so thank you! :)
You're so welcome! 😊
I just wish to add that some of the older paper mache forms (even tables) were high heated and some under pressure. I had bought a "collectible" Paper Mache Table for not very much at a local place in NYC. (one in 1980 could find these at the local goodwill and other such outlets). I could not understand the product lasting sooooooo long, and was super tough and durable. I did some research (back in NYC at the research library). I moved and sold/tithed many of my books so "if memory serves". (30 years ago).
Note the "tar spirit" (one can google this now but one has to search for those that don't pay to have their information "up front") Before the www, only research at the library and my old moulage books would inform one as to what this was."
Papier Mache Production
www.papiermache.co.uk/articles/victorian-papier-mache/
"The making of papier mache items, in particular, the pieces of furniture, involved many hours of work and relied upon an almost limitless supply of cheap labour. Very large sheets of black paper were pasted on both sides and firmly pressed over greased moulds. (After having been dipped in large shallow vats of tar spirit and linseed oil). Care was taken to smooth out the surface and remove any trapped air bubbles.
After 2 or 3 layers had been applied, the edges would be trimmed and the item baked in a hot oven. The object would be built up in this way, continually repeating the three layers and baking until the final thickness was met. Some articles had as many as 100 layers of paper by the time they were finished!
Once thoroughly dry, the item was saturated in linseed oil and baked in a very hot oven for many hours to make it hard and water-resistant."
Another great link on paper mache of past.
antiquesqa.blogspot.com/2015/10/tear-and-paste.html
..................
As well, I could not understand ancient War Armour made out of paper - so research showed this form of paper is not what we think of it today. Their war costumes were tough and durable.
Now selling on Ebay for several hundreds and more. Here is an example of one.
Antique 19th C MOTHER OF PEARL Inlaid PAPER MACHE Lift Top TRAY Coffee TABLE
www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-19th-C-MOTHER-OF-PEARL-Inlaid-PAPER-MACHE-Lift-Top-TRAY-Coffee-TABLE/283350482352?hash=item41f9013db0:g:UQUAAOSwxZxcDsQb
Interesting link for additives, some funny and some such as insect repellant and anti-mold very useful. (often older sources prove very useful). The older resin mentioned was most likely the lac bug resin (not the synthetic and highly toxic resins of today).
www.papiermache.co.uk/articles/history-of-papier-mache/
Great video Jonni, Thank's
You're welcome. I'm glad you liked it.
oh dear you don't live in FL...nothing dries up really :(((
Yes, that's what I've heard. It does sound like a lovely place, though. If I lived there, I might switch to Apoxie Sculpt so I wouldn't have to worry about the damp.
@@UltimatePaperMache do you have a recipe that uses it?
Great advices!! Thanks a lot :)
You're welcome.
Mould is the correct spelling of the word. Mold is the form you would pour papier mache into. Really confusing!
I think we may live in different countries. Here in the US, mold is the normal spelling for a type of fungus - and it's also the spelling for molds used for casting.
Subscribed!:)
Gunnyc animation Thanks!
O plot
I put my paper mache pieces in the oven, then i fan dry the rest.
Good plan - anything that will get them dry all the way through.
boric acid