And his car, and from the looks of it, his career and everything else. Just guessing, but I imagine he applies this methodology to just about everything. Again though, just what it seems like.
Thank you for gracing us with your presence, Miata father. But I'm actually in the final stages of finishing a VVT swap on my 94 R-Package, so these videos have been perfectly timed and awesome! (Hi Austin)
I'm going to be super duper honest Greg; without your passion behind the miata I never would have undertaken this turbo build. Honestly your videos are so valuable online and will be loved for years and decades to come. I STILL watch your earliest BrokeBoosted videos to learn more! I'm on step 1 brotha!
Dude I have loved your channel since the day I found it and it gave me the confidence to supercharge my nb2, I was always bummed on the lack in nb content but lately I am in heaven. Let’s get you too 200k subscriber’s by 2023!!!
Hey brother I really appreciate your channel and you have inspired me to do a whole lot on my Megasquirt 3 S480 BBF Build. I really appreciate your hard work 🤙
Haven't seen anyone else in the comments mention this, but if you have a high compression motor or aftermarket cams and can't use full VVT advance, please DO NOT rely on the values in the table to keep you safe. Install a mechanical limiter inside your phaser to protect your motor.
went through this mess myself a year ago and just copy/pasted a map but it really is a noticeable difference alongside boost, especially if you don't like downshifting to pass or merge quickly on the highway with long gears
another way of measuring the vvt-effect is to look at the AFR, when the VVT peaks the compared AFR also should do the same.. for my specific engine that gave me the highest afr at around 6degrees on idle for example..
im looking forward to see the gains from spray now bro cuz this is awesome on paper and i bet the butt dyno loves it lol ... peace n love pops keep it rad stay safe and build on pops l8z
Ever thought about doing a video specifically for ITB tunes? Ever since you last saw my tune, I had some changes happen, including moving and stuff, as well as slapping on ITBs, tuning, and going racing. I was curious if you ever pondered on the idea.
VVT map, that is helpful. Nice video. I have a map that is a bit more advanced but overall similar. Since you mentioned alternator in the comments, I'll write about my experience. I could not control it completely with [fastswitch] at the alternator for mk2.5. Sometimes it output 19V. When I replaced it with an alternator for mk2, I could control it well with [fastswitch]. I tried 4 alternators. Both for mk2.5 sometimes output overvoltage; both for mk2 could be controlled. I could not figure out why.
The 1.6 in my 92 needs to come out for head work and a good reseal…. But I’m suddenly thinking a VVT swap might be my new goal. Already on MS2…. So tempting.
Nice video. Generally its very hard to find decent information on tuning vvt. Might be worth mentioning that changing vvt will also need some retuning of VE/ fuelling to account for the change in VE achieved by the optimisation of vvt.
I definitely should have mentioned this, even ignition timing might need to be changed as well if you have it turned up high already in the midrange. I guess my thought was if someone has a standalone and they're tuning themselves, they know that they need to keep AFR within a certain range as it changes with modifications and other adjustments to the tune.
Going to be vvt swapping my '90 very soon...should be interesting. Radium fuel line worth the money? 99/00 ones seem to be unobtanium right now for me.
Hey Greg, brilliant video 👏🏻👌🏻 I’m actually on your shop seeking to buy some merch so I can show it off over here in the UK.. CarPassion Shirts - Grey (or black) Heather in size large. Shows out of stock. When are you expecting more back in stock man?
Ya know the haters are gonna be coming out in full force because they made more power with 90degree elbow and cold air. It's what's under the curve you smucks. Lol Good job as always. Also big up to the last nb timing belt vid. Followed it to almost all the way. The damn o ring got me on the mixer and it's leaking. Gonna have to go back in to it. Bitch about it, is that it looks like it was already done before I bought it three yrs ago.
This looks awesome option ESPECIALLY in Europe. The mk2.5 is more widely available with the 1.6 B6-ZE engine..Looks like the 1.8 VVT would be a great option ..But would I need to use a standalone ECU to tune it..? Would it run using the stock 1.6 ECU? If so I think I’ll buy the stand-alone and let a tuner take care of the tune..Although the wiring of the cam sensor looks 👍 ok
So when are you going to port and polish the head to squeeze a bit more power out? I've heard you can get up to a 12% increase in flow by doing it on boosted applications
Hey greg, i drive a 1999 1.6L NB miata with a Kraken low mount and a chinese T25 turbo (in europe the NB's were sold with 1.6's aswell, not sure if you were aware) but since i installed my megasquirt i cant seem to get the VSS to work in tuner studio, the car has ABS. Do i need to run an extra wire or is it just a setting thats configured wrong. Any help would be greatly apreciated
I really want to see a Miata engine built for all mid range torque. A VVT engine with a VICS manifold, stock intake cross over tube, and 4-2-1 headers. Then strap a TDR centrifugal kit, valve springs, damper, and oil pump and see how far it it can rev out and still make power.
I just bought a Fiat 1.6 16 valve. And I'm getting bothered by the Rev hang it has. Stock ECU with mechanical throttle body, TPS, MAP and a stepper motor for idle control. I doesn't have a MAF or AFM. Why am I getting rev hang between shifts ?? Is it normal or do I have a vacuum leak that I can't feel elsewhere ??
I have a nb 1998 1.6l It comes with 110hp but it doesnt feel like 110hp, it literally doesnt pull at all. The sparkplugs are new and every service has been done. I know miatas are slow but it just feels too slow for the power/weight ratio. Anybody knows what could be wrong? It has 190k miles btw but it sounds and feels great while driving. Takes long to find idle when its cold
Hey Greg! Watched your videos years ago to get my ECU set up in the first place. Its been bugging me and I’m just now trying to get around to fixing it- have you heard of the BMW VTPS sensors not holding calibration and being really jumpy? It never returns to the same number when I’m off throttle, and when I give it the first blip of throttle it shows negative for a split second before increasing. Today it was suddenly showing -50% throttle! And this sensor was brand new, replacing one that showed the same issues. Thanks!
Hey Greg, if im not mistaken on the ms3 you don't need the diode correct? That's just something with the me22? Just making sure I don't need to go back in and add it to mine.
How were you able to get your alternator to work on the ME442? Mine refused to work at all on my 2000, so I found an old forum where they take an NA8 alternator and splice two wires. Just wondering 😀
@@TheCarPassionChannel I’m glad that you want to (makes me feel I made the right decision lol) I do know that now the battery light is on but the car is charging no problem with 13.9-14.2 volts at idle
Extensive head work is needed to reach those number. At that point boost is the cheaper route. But VVT can reach 150 whp for pretty cheap by a good tuner.
@@Samuelamnuelgreeneggshamuel thanks for the insight man, it's super interesting stuff modifying an engine like that. I guess the main benefit would be that it isn't boosted - I love the N/A feel. I wonder how much VVT you could get for the price of a K24 swap
@@LukeEvans55 if budget is low and skills are high, get a VVT, skim the head, find a VICS intake manifold with ms3 mini. You can get 150 whp easily and the power band would be nice and flat.
Off topic, but is that the after market hard top you got from treasure coast a while ago? How's it holding up after all this time, road noise seemed minimal.
I'm very satisfied with it considering the fact that it's a race top. It will never be as quiet and nice as OEM, but that's to be expected when it's less than half the weight. It's significantly quieter than rocking a soft top which is awesome. You may notice in some of the videos that the fitment on mine in particular isn't perfect, mostly due to the fact that my car was crashed before so .. it's a little crooked haha
Thanks for that awesome Informations. 1. What's the exactly name of the ecu and where can I get a Basemap for the mx5 nbfl vvt 146hp? 2. Is this vvt mod also compatible, with a 14degrees timing advance? 3. What software do you use for the ecu setup on your laptop? Kind regards from Germany
-ECU: Motorsport Electronics ME442 -Basemaps are pre-loaded into the ECU for all MX5 models -Whrn using a standalone ECU there's no need for the "14 degree advance" because you have full control over the timing map, unlike stock ECU -Sodtware is MEITE, which is free to download from Motorsport Electronics
If you're considering cams, I'm assuming that means you're already full bolt on as well, in which case you will definitely benefit from a standalone. You might unlock more power by modifying the VVT curve but you'll find power elsewhere also with perfecting the AFR and timing map. Get all of your bolt ons done, convert to a standalone, and get a dyno tune for the full power unlock
Maybe someone in here can help me. I have a 2002 nb miata that doesn’t run good when cold …low on power until you get rpms up around 3500 then goes like you flipped a switch. Idles fine even when cold. Runs great when warm.
Correct me if I'm wrong but VTEC switches to an entirely different cam profile which can change valve timing, lift, and duration, not lift only. The cam doesn't "clock" differently so technically it's not altering the "cam timing" but it's achieving the same thing. Since cam timing changes valve timing
@@TheCarPassionChannel The 1st gen of vtec switches cam profile only as you said. The 2nd gen(i-VTEC) on top of that have cam phaser which can advance/retard intake timing (basically exactly what VVT does) There is also weird 3 stage vtec which has 3 profiles on cam, with 1st one not opening one of valves at all (to mix fuel better for low rpm economy operation)
You mean advancing the timing with a stock ECU? It's not really related. VVT changes cam timing, what you're talking about is ignition timing, and the stock-ecu timing mods can only shift the entire map, usually making it more efficient in some areas and less efficient in others.
So EUDM is 10:1 with a flat top but JDM is 10.5 with the flat top? Strange that they would be different. And yeah I have a flat top on mine, it's the only way to go lol
@@TheCarPassionChannel the only difference between USDM and EUDM is the flat top therefore the extra 2 HP rating. The difference between EUDM and JDM is the 10.5:1 vs 10:1 therefore the additional 8 HP rating. I imported 10 EUDM engines. They all come with flat top and I disassembled 3 of them. It is the exact same engine as USDM which I assembled and disassembled as well.
I should buy a VVT... My stock BP from my 94 NA doesn't really make power. I can't get any more power with the ignition. It doesn't matter whether I use 95 or 93 fuel. The engine does not knock
@@TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for a quick reply Greg! I have a 6 speed which I think would be a good match with its close ratios for my na6 with 4.1 torsen.
I've done this before with spark angle and found it to be really ineffectual. Any change in inlet temperature dominated any changes in tune. You need a decent cold air intake and to not heat soak the engine between runs. Its difficult. That said, your drag data does seem to suggest you got a clear change!
Optimal spark angle is much more difficult to tune using VD, it's simply not as sensitive as a real dyno. It can get you in the ballpark, but it's better to stay on the conservative side. There's not a ton of power to be had by adding those few extra iffy degrees in there anyways.
First set your cutoff voltage to like 17v so it can't go that high. Also I use the "fast switch" setting which helped a lot. Keeps voltage in check 99% of the time
@@TheCarPassionChannel okay thanks, do you have a tuning guide for a non VVT engine? or know anyone who has made one? Im new to tuning and I really just want my engine to run a bit smoother.
Can we all appreciate all the work Greg puts into his videos to give us those tons of information? 🍻
And his car, and from the looks of it, his career and everything else. Just guessing, but I imagine he applies this methodology to just about everything. Again though, just what it seems like.
Thank you for gracing us with your presence, Miata father.
But I'm actually in the final stages of finishing a VVT swap on my 94 R-Package, so these videos have been perfectly timed and awesome!
(Hi Austin)
Hi Zach
Weird… same here.
I'm going to be super duper honest Greg; without your passion behind the miata I never would have undertaken this turbo build. Honestly your videos are so valuable online and will be loved for years and decades to come. I STILL watch your earliest BrokeBoosted videos to learn more! I'm on step 1 brotha!
The shot of the valves opening with VVT is excellent, thanks! Great video.
Appreciate your hard work and dedication to these videos. We learn a lot from you!
Just went through all this. So glad to see someone finally make it easy to use video!
Dude I have loved your channel since the day I found it and it gave me the confidence to supercharge my nb2, I was always bummed on the lack in nb content but lately I am in heaven. Let’s get you too 200k subscriber’s by 2023!!!
👌 You sir (GP) are killing it with these vids.
This is a well deserved break after working on my Miata the whole afternoon. It's still overheating but this is more important right now! Thanks Greg!
Just another super helpful video from our friend ! Thanks again!
Hey brother I really appreciate your channel and you have inspired me to do a whole lot on my Megasquirt 3 S480 BBF Build. I really appreciate your hard work 🤙
Thanks for posting this your videos really take the scare out of self tuning.
Loving the ME knowledge. Breaking down the manual to be super understandable.
you're a legend for these videos Greg!
i love these videos man
Great video; something more to play with. I learned recently you can also get a boost of power by fixing a scraping brake pad!
Great Video as always. What would be also be very interesting is tuning for driveability. Acceleration Enrichment etc.
I always look forward to these new videos. 🎉
Haven't seen anyone else in the comments mention this, but if you have a high compression motor or aftermarket cams and can't use full VVT advance, please DO NOT rely on the values in the table to keep you safe. Install a mechanical limiter inside your phaser to protect your motor.
Love it keep the tuning content coming
bro u have the best channel for miata on youtube
So much value in this video!
Daddy Gred drops yet another banger on YT 😍💪
Great video Creigle!
Good job Greg keep it going!!!
went through this mess myself a year ago and just copy/pasted a map but
it really is a noticeable difference alongside boost, especially if you don't like downshifting to pass or merge quickly on the highway with long gears
Dear Father Gregorius,
Thank you for thine wisdom.
Amen
Miatason
Thanks Greg for another miata Monday!!!
i am not one of the 11 people this will help but thank you for more great tuning videos
Clearly more than 11 people enjoying this vid Greg. Well done
Awesome technical content. 👌
One of your 11 commenters checking in!
The real MVP's
another way of measuring the vvt-effect is to look at the AFR, when the VVT peaks the compared AFR also should do the same.. for my specific engine that gave me the highest afr at around 6degrees on idle for example..
4:40 LOL
im looking forward to see the gains from spray now bro cuz this is awesome on paper and i bet the butt dyno loves it lol ... peace n love pops keep it rad stay safe and build on pops l8z
I love all the information you are spreading and The entertainment value of all your videos mah boi. But that crankcase vent hose is a bit kinked 😬😂
Brilliant execution pulling a valve to show timing!
beginning a petition for you to attempt to make your own free valve miata and tune it series
I’m embarrassed by how much I learnt from this video 🤛🏼
All this nb content and im back in a Miata. Silver 03 with appearance package and LSD with black top and interior.
Ever thought about doing a video specifically for ITB tunes? Ever since you last saw my tune, I had some changes happen, including moving and stuff, as well as slapping on ITBs, tuning, and going racing. I was curious if you ever pondered on the idea.
Extremely nice and important as always thank you Greg. Have you ever thought of BMW content also???
For us European boys.
2:40 I thought the 1.8 engines were non-interference, meaning no chance of piston to valve contact?
Sick color!
VVT map, that is helpful. Nice video.
I have a map that is a bit more advanced but overall similar.
Since you mentioned alternator in the comments, I'll write about my experience.
I could not control it completely with [fastswitch] at the alternator for mk2.5. Sometimes it output 19V.
When I replaced it with an alternator for mk2, I could control it well with [fastswitch].
I tried 4 alternators.
Both for mk2.5 sometimes output overvoltage; both for mk2 could be controlled.
I could not figure out why.
Would love you to make a vid on accel/enrich on the me221
The 1.6 in my 92 needs to come out for head work and a good reseal….
But I’m suddenly thinking a VVT swap might be my new goal. Already on MS2….
So tempting.
Nice video. Generally its very hard to find decent information on tuning vvt. Might be worth mentioning that changing vvt will also need some retuning of VE/ fuelling to account for the change in VE achieved by the optimisation of vvt.
I definitely should have mentioned this, even ignition timing might need to be changed as well if you have it turned up high already in the midrange. I guess my thought was if someone has a standalone and they're tuning themselves, they know that they need to keep AFR within a certain range as it changes with modifications and other adjustments to the tune.
You da best!
Can you please do a video going over how aftermarket ecu's and emissions work in states that have them?
Going to be vvt swapping my '90 very soon...should be interesting. Radium fuel line worth the money? 99/00 ones seem to be unobtanium right now for me.
Hey Greg, brilliant video 👏🏻👌🏻
I’m actually on your shop seeking to buy some merch so I can show it off over here in the UK.. CarPassion Shirts - Grey (or black) Heather in size large. Shows out of stock. When are you expecting more back in stock man?
I loved my MX-5 and I want another one so badly :(
Is the fly back circuit needed on Megasquirt installs as well?
What pins are you using to connect wires to the me442 aux board?
Ya know the haters are gonna be coming out in full force because they made more power with 90degree elbow and cold air. It's what's under the curve you smucks. Lol
Good job as always. Also big up to the last nb timing belt vid. Followed it to almost all the way. The damn o ring got me on the mixer and it's leaking. Gonna have to go back in to it. Bitch about it, is that it looks like it was already done before I bought it three yrs ago.
This looks awesome option ESPECIALLY in Europe. The mk2.5 is more widely available with the 1.6 B6-ZE engine..Looks like the 1.8 VVT would be a great option ..But would I need to use a standalone ECU to tune it..? Would it run using the stock 1.6 ECU? If so I think I’ll buy the stand-alone and let a tuner take care of the tune..Although the wiring of the cam sensor looks 👍 ok
So when are you going to port and polish the head to squeeze a bit more power out? I've heard you can get up to a 12% increase in flow by doing it on boosted applications
Hey greg, i drive a 1999 1.6L NB miata with a Kraken low mount and a chinese T25 turbo (in europe the NB's were sold with 1.6's aswell, not sure if you were aware) but since i installed my megasquirt i cant seem to get the VSS to work in tuner studio, the car has ABS. Do i need to run an extra wire or is it just a setting thats configured wrong. Any help would be greatly apreciated
Great now I wanna put a vvt head on my na8
I’m here dad
Greg, when you say "piston to valve contact" for a VVT engine, isn't this not possible on an NB miata since it uses a non-interference engine?
I really want to see a Miata engine built for all mid range torque. A VVT engine with a VICS manifold, stock intake cross over tube, and 4-2-1 headers. Then strap a TDR centrifugal kit, valve springs, damper, and oil pump and see how far it it can rev out and still make power.
Burrito with all the works
On a stock vvt car at high revs is it an interference engine?
I just bought a Fiat 1.6 16 valve. And I'm getting bothered by the Rev hang it has. Stock ECU with mechanical throttle body, TPS, MAP and a stepper motor for idle control. I doesn't have a MAF or AFM. Why am I getting rev hang between shifts ?? Is it normal or do I have a vacuum leak that I can't feel elsewhere ??
Can you share your VVT table in the description please?
What if you deleted all the evap stuff? Is the megasquirt the solution?
just put a VVT engine in my '90. all hail master craig
4:48 sounds like something a vtec honda boy would say
I have a nb 1998 1.6l
It comes with 110hp but it doesnt feel like 110hp, it literally doesnt pull at all. The sparkplugs are new and every service has been done. I know miatas are slow but it just feels too slow for the power/weight ratio. Anybody knows what could be wrong?
It has 190k miles btw but it sounds and feels great while driving. Takes long to find idle when its cold
Hey Greg! Watched your videos years ago to get my ECU set up in the first place. Its been bugging me and I’m just now trying to get around to fixing it- have you heard of the BMW VTPS sensors not holding calibration and being really jumpy? It never returns to the same number when I’m off throttle, and when I give it the first blip of throttle it shows negative for a split second before increasing. Today it was suddenly showing -50% throttle! And this sensor was brand new, replacing one that showed the same issues. Thanks!
Yeah, especially the older ones, they can be temperamental. I had good luck with my Z32 TPS but it took a little work to get bolted up
Hey Greg, if im not mistaken on the ms3 you don't need the diode correct? That's just something with the me22? Just making sure I don't need to go back in and add it to mine.
I believe that is correct, you might want to check with DIY just to be safe but if you've been running it then you should be fine
i know exactlyyy whjat he means by feeling it faster
How were you able to get your alternator to work on the ME442? Mine refused to work at all on my 2000, so I found an old forum where they take an NA8 alternator and splice two wires. Just wondering 😀
It works fine 99% of the time, but I want to do the NA8 swap myself too.
@@TheCarPassionChannel I’m glad that you want to (makes me feel I made the right decision lol) I do know that now the battery light is on but the car is charging no problem with 13.9-14.2 volts at idle
Someone told me that I should comment.
I'm looking forward to seeing how far you take this one! With the right mods this could be a "budget k-swap". Wonder if 200bhp NA is possible 🤔
Extensive head work is needed to reach those number. At that point boost is the cheaper route. But VVT can reach 150 whp for pretty cheap by a good tuner.
@@Samuelamnuelgreeneggshamuel thanks for the insight man, it's super interesting stuff modifying an engine like that. I guess the main benefit would be that it isn't boosted - I love the N/A feel. I wonder how much VVT you could get for the price of a K24 swap
@@LukeEvans55 if budget is low and skills are high, get a VVT, skim the head, find a VICS intake manifold with ms3 mini. You can get 150 whp easily and the power band would be nice and flat.
@@Samuelamnuelgreeneggshamuel Why VICS? It doesn't have any benefit combined with VVT and the manifold flows less than the one used on the VVT models.
@@TheAdatto that's absolutely not true, everyone knows VICS manifold flows better than VTCS manifold. It's well documented in many forums.
Off topic, but is that the after market hard top you got from treasure coast a while ago? How's it holding up after all this time, road noise seemed minimal.
I'm very satisfied with it considering the fact that it's a race top. It will never be as quiet and nice as OEM, but that's to be expected when it's less than half the weight. It's significantly quieter than rocking a soft top which is awesome. You may notice in some of the videos that the fitment on mine in particular isn't perfect, mostly due to the fact that my car was crashed before so .. it's a little crooked haha
Thanks for that awesome Informations.
1. What's the exactly name of the ecu and where can I get a Basemap for the mx5 nbfl vvt 146hp?
2. Is this vvt mod also compatible, with a 14degrees timing advance?
3. What software do you use for the ecu setup on your laptop?
Kind regards from Germany
-ECU: Motorsport Electronics ME442
-Basemaps are pre-loaded into the ECU for all MX5 models
-Whrn using a standalone ECU there's no need for the "14 degree advance" because you have full control over the timing map, unlike stock ECU
-Sodtware is MEITE, which is free to download from Motorsport Electronics
How do these numbers compare to a factory vvt ECU? Would it be worth doing to a std nb2 before starting on cams etc?
If you're considering cams, I'm assuming that means you're already full bolt on as well, in which case you will definitely benefit from a standalone. You might unlock more power by modifying the VVT curve but you'll find power elsewhere also with perfecting the AFR and timing map. Get all of your bolt ons done, convert to a standalone, and get a dyno tune for the full power unlock
Maybe someone in here can help me. I have a 2002 nb miata that doesn’t run good when cold …low on power until you get rpms up around 3500 then goes like you flipped a switch. Idles fine even when cold. Runs great when warm.
VTEC is "on-off" only for lift. VTEC (or rather i-VTEC, started with K series) have inifintely variable cam angle too
Correct me if I'm wrong but VTEC switches to an entirely different cam profile which can change valve timing, lift, and duration, not lift only. The cam doesn't "clock" differently so technically it's not altering the "cam timing" but it's achieving the same thing. Since cam timing changes valve timing
@@TheCarPassionChannel The 1st gen of vtec switches cam profile only as you said. The 2nd gen(i-VTEC) on top of that have cam phaser which can advance/retard intake timing (basically exactly what VVT does)
There is also weird 3 stage vtec which has 3 profiles on cam, with 1st one not opening one of valves at all (to mix fuel better for low rpm economy operation)
dat high compression Wiseco in the back tho...
Oh you already know what motor that's going in 😏
This might be a noob question, but i'll take a shoot. How does this procedure compares to advance timing with a 5x Racing wheel or the like?
You mean advancing the timing with a stock ECU? It's not really related. VVT changes cam timing, what you're talking about is ignition timing, and the stock-ecu timing mods can only shift the entire map, usually making it more efficient in some areas and less efficient in others.
FYI, EUDM engine is 10:1. Exactly same engine. Reason EUDM overall hp is rated higher because in EU they use flat top instead of our crappy VTCS.
So EUDM is 10:1 with a flat top but JDM is 10.5 with the flat top? Strange that they would be different. And yeah I have a flat top on mine, it's the only way to go lol
@@TheCarPassionChannel the only difference between USDM and EUDM is the flat top therefore the extra 2 HP rating. The difference between EUDM and JDM is the 10.5:1 vs 10:1 therefore the additional 8 HP rating. I imported 10 EUDM engines. They all come with flat top and I disassembled 3 of them. It is the exact same engine as USDM which I assembled and disassembled as well.
@@TheCarPassionChannel I prefer VICS in endurance because we redline at 7k. If you redline 7200+ flat top is the way to go. VTCS is junk 😛
I’m a 1.6 lover but dammit I wouldn’t mind getting my hands on a vvt 1.8 lol
I thought the thumbnail said miserable gains lol
6spd right? What's your rear diff ratio in this video?
4.3! Ultra short 😅
I should buy a VVT... My stock BP from my 94 NA doesn't really make power. I can't get any more power with the ignition. It doesn't matter whether I use 95 or 93 fuel. The engine does not knock
You'll also get the benefit of better head flow and more aggressive factory cams 🙂
@@TheCarPassionChannel I get some midrange power with the MS3 but the stock cams from the BP are rather poor at the top.
Can you do VVT on a stock 1.6 NA?
No - the 1.8 and 1.6 heads are not interchangeable
It would be interesting to compare this toad tune to your dyno tune to see how accurate it really was
I will be doing that on the next dyno day, that's why I always do a baseline pull after rolling on the dyno for the first time with a new setup.
I’m use VVTuner 38* 2500rpm.
I am one of the 11 people dad
Hey Greg, how do you like a 6 speed with NA engine?
It's bliss. The car is so much fun. Gears are incredibly short paired with the 4.3 rear
@@TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for a quick reply Greg! I have a 6 speed which I think would be a good match with its close ratios for my na6 with 4.1 torsen.
I've done this before with spark angle and found it to be really ineffectual. Any change in inlet temperature dominated any changes in tune. You need a decent cold air intake and to not heat soak the engine between runs. Its difficult. That said, your drag data does seem to suggest you got a clear change!
Optimal spark angle is much more difficult to tune using VD, it's simply not as sensitive as a real dyno. It can get you in the ballpark, but it's better to stay on the conservative side. There's not a ton of power to be had by adding those few extra iffy degrees in there anyways.
Nissan VVEL is a better take on the valvetronic thing
My me442 keeps making my voltage go to 22v.
First set your cutoff voltage to like 17v so it can't go that high. Also I use the "fast switch" setting which helped a lot. Keeps voltage in check 99% of the time
can this work on a non vvt engine
No, you cannot tune VVT on a non-VVT engine. But you can apply the same street tuning methods
@@TheCarPassionChannel okay thanks, do you have a tuning guide for a non VVT engine? or know anyone who has made one? Im new to tuning and I really just want my engine to run a bit smoother.
Does anyone thinks that the green neon miata in the background is to bright or is it just my OCD?
Gep