BUILD a 20-Ton Hydraulic Press! FREE PLANS!
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- Опубліковано 18 лис 2022
- Not hard to build, no real special tools to build, but boy is it handy to have!!
FREE PLANS
www.gwellwood.com/tools/hydra...
FREE Curriculum
www.gwellwood.com/subjects/
VEVOR Air/Hydraulic 20T Bottle Jack
amzn.to/3DZMgzD
Princess Auto Manual 20T Bottle Jack
www.princessauto.com/en/20-to...
Press Springs
www.princessauto.com/en/shop-...
Steel Supplier
www.russelmetals.com/en/compa...
Fasteners
bcfasteners.com/
Thank you so much for sharing your very informative build and upgrade vid on a press that i’ve been looking to build. You are the only one that i seen to actually put plans on your channel on how to build one of these presses. Nice job well done.
Another video with excellent info and very strong flavorings of shop style entertainment. Two thumbs up!
Thanks for the video and especially the plans.
Great video. Thanks for the tip on moving a punch mark. Keep up the good work
Subscribed! Lovely demonstration and appreciate the plans!
Spray painting the press would be a lot like body work and we know how much you hate body work! Thanks for the plans and the video. This would be a great addition to my shop!
Thanks
My brother-in-law set me up with a 5 hp Quincy Air compressor that he put together from rejected parts from work. A tank with a small dent that couldn't be sold. Rebuilt pump. Basically new!!
Along with the compressor, came a hydraulic ram, and a foot pedal operated air over hydrologic pump. Yep, you guessed it, I searched for press plans. You have yourself a new subscriber! A friend acquired some steel at a bargain price and offered some to me for whatever project I'd like.
If you like vintage vehicles, check out the playlist on my channel about my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban. Some have chosen to subscribe to follow along as I slowly get it back to daily driver condition.
Thank you kind sir for supplying free plans, I shall not complain about freedom units of measure and will do necessary conversions myself 😬 I’ve been thinking about building hydraulic press for a while now, since I have a fair bit of steel left over from building my garage frame (yes, my garage once finished will be a bit closer to a bunker construction). Once built I shall post the result and credit your video as well, get those views in!
Here in Canada we work in both Metric AND Imperial, and which one you used kinda depends on what you're measuring: Speed is metric. Volume for cooking is Imperial but volume for everything else is Metric. Your weight is in pounds but other weights will be pounds only if its light otherwise Kg if it's heavy. Cooking temps are in °F but outdoor temp will be in °C and your swimming pool will be °F. Your height will be Imperial and distances related to work will be Imperial but if it's not related to work it will be Metric. Bienvenue au Canada. I'm doing the best I can under these conditions.
@@GregWellwood well, isn’t that a fine mish-mash 🤣🤣🤣
And more often than not, travelling distances are measured in time, not km or miles. Because "why not."
Thank y9u.
several years ago i built my shop press (i was farming pretty big then) it is made out of 1/2in thick 4in angle iron 6 ft long riveted 6in apart (salvaged bridge beam) with 4 - 10 in channel for the tops and the table. my pins go through the table and the angles on the sides. i tried something different for the head it slides across the tops so i can put it right next to the side or anywhere between (with the angle iron riveted about every foot with 5in wide strap ) you can go through Long ways with long but narrow pieces again there is about 6in between the angles. it is pretty wide across the table and i should have made the head plate and the top cap that holds it in heavier it has bent a little and now wobbles slightly until pressure is on it . i also up graded to an air over hyd and picked up a foot pedal valve for it but don't have the valve on yet unfortunately it is outside right now . and Yes keep the old bearing races and cut off shafts i found a 6x 12 piece of 2 in plate to press against (dont know where i found it ) (no x blocks yet just lots of big blocks of plate) great vid very informative have fun with it
I like the user interface on your "press brake". At work I feed sheet aluminium into a Amada HFE 50-20S press brake. That Amada press brake user interface has me convinced that aliens live among us and they work as designers for Amada. If there is a Rosetta Stone for that thing I'd love to find it.
Some machines need more of a Ouija Board to operate.
Legend🙌 a skookum choocher indeed 👌
Where s the link
Very interesting, very helpfull. Thanks.
Noob-Question: Why is it better to press down than up? Or why is the jack on top not the bottom?
I don't think it matters which way you press, but I'd think it's earier to move just the table to press something large, than to move a table with a bottle jack on it. Truthfully, I reverse-engineered a press I have at work to make this one; it had the bottle on top.
As instructed..."Where's the link to the plans?" 🤣 Thanks GW, when I finish about 100 honey-dos this will be next in line.
You are first! You get an "A"!
what I have on hand from another project is a 30-ton bottle jack. What would need to be increased in this design so it could handle 30 tons? Bigger bolts, heavier C-channel?
I don't know. I'd look at ones in stores, and surreptitiously measure things with a tape measure when the salesman isn't looking.
I may have missed it in the video, but did you use standard or heavy duty channel? I priced it out at my local metal supplier and they offer both standard at approx 3/16” thick and heavy duty at approx 3/8”.
Have you noticed any deflection in the top or the bed with the 20-ton press? I was thinking of getting a 32-ton instead as the cost isn’t much different. If I do, maybe the heavy duty channel is the way to go.
I'm pretty sure mine is 3/16" thick, but if heavy duty isn't much more money, I'd go with that. I get some deflection, but I've always chalked it up to poor measurement and sloppy construction (grin).
Thanks for the quick reply. It’s about $60 more to go heavy duty so I think I will likely do that unless I come across something else!
what brand is a good brand of drill bit? Thanks Ted
There are many brands, but I usually get either CLE-Line, or Walter. Cheap cutters are never cheap in the long run.
You should consider inverting the Jack. This allows you to eliminate the cross arm, and one set of springs. I did this on mine and love it. I also mounted the air valve on the column and activated it with a foot lever. Very handy. Is this a good place to say Bob,s your uncle?
You know my Uncle Bob?
I know you mother’s brother, Robert.
Do you have info on how you inverted your bottle jack?
I used a series of video from "The Aussie Shed" channel. ua-cam.com/video/wDn5-Yyw5SU/v-deo.html @@frankglass
Thanks Mr W. If a chap (or chapess) felt inclined to weld some or all of the frame do you have any words of wisdom?
You'll need a skookum welder with lots of heat, and pay attention to how it's all going to warp. I have more confidence in the shear strength of bolts than I do of my welds.
How is the air over hydraulic bottle jack working.
Still working well. Used it a couple weeks ago to replace a FWD wheel bearing. This would make re/de-arcing leaf springs SO much nicer than a manual bottle. I feel silly for not chosing air/hydraulic right from the get-go.
I keep checking it for leaks every time I use it, because I've gone through a few bottle jacks from another supplier. No leaks so far.
Good video
I am looking for a 20 ton ram with about a 7" travel. I like the 20 ton press from Eastwood. I didn't like the $190 shipping charge. I like your press just want the bottle inverted or find a ram.
Would this press hold a 32 ton bottle jack?
I don't know. But I don't want to be around it if it doesn't.
Did you even save money doing this?
It's not usually cost-effective to build things for yourself. At the time I was about to pull the trigger, a 12T went on sale for the same price as the steel alone. I chose to build it anyway; mine's probably more robust.
First, you need to keep one of those foam gardening pads handy for your knees. Very cheap but very helpful.
Second, I share your preference for corded tools. House power is 100% 24x7, so why use batteries in the shop? They always let you down. Save those for mobile use, and never buy Bauer from Harbor Freight. Their lithium cells are inferior.
Also, great tip on just using bolts for the crossmember supports. You can use solid rod, but bolts are usually harder and the head is a built in stop for one end.
Also having it on casters is another great idea since all of the pressure is in the pressing zone, not onto the base.
I would rather hear the sound of plastic bags or even nails on a calk board that the awful music so many UA-camrs use.