So glad I saw your video. Had the same code. I changed my transmission fluid and filter, tested and cleaned the solenoid,(it was fine) to see if it helped, same issue. I replaced the transmission sensor for a 2012 Tundra 4.6 ( note: not the same as the one in the video) and it resolved the issue. Runs smoothe and all. Thank you so much for your help.
We build a lot of these transmissions for performance use and we have run into P2757 a lot and it never seems to get fixed by changing the solenoid. There are a lot of other vehicle issues that can cause it. It's sometimes a valve body wear issue that's correctable.
Same codes here. Swapped the sensor still don't have 5/6th gears. Going for a drain/fill tomorrow morning, hoping that's the fix. If not new valve body here we come.
Thank you for this! I have a 2016 Tundra SR and just came inside from swapping that sensor and unplugging the battery. Should know in a 1-2 weeks if that did the trick!
Update for anyone who reads the comments: New sensor ($15 on Amazon) did the trick for a few weeks, but the light came back on for the permanent code. Found a thread online that said the issue is likely one of the valves itself, and I found out yesterday the dealership does not open transmissions to repair. A new transmission and 14 hours of labor was quoted at $8,600 😂
Thanks for the information. I had the engine light traction cod and vsc flashing. My t2007 tundra would not go past 4th gear. I found the sensor on Amazon for $13 dollars and changed it out. Everything is working great now and my gas milage has gone up. I checked my truck for codes and its still showing the p2714 but everything is running great. Maybe I just need to clear the code and see if it comes back. Also when removing the speed sensor the release on the clip is on the The very back end.
Ever see this on a 2012 GX 460? Got a P2714 solenoid D stuck off code today and had it cleared at advanced. Have noticed no issues in the car handling at all
I just recently bought a 07 Tundra and am trying to sell my 98 4runner bc I’m getting shift solenoid codes as well as rough shifting. I don’t make a lot of $ and I didn’t want to invest $300+ more into it when I’m planning to sell it anyway. I found your video linked on a fb Tundra page. I’m going to replace the same sensor in my 4R and see if that fixes it. If it does, you’ve saved me a ton of money and I will definitely update and pay it forward. Thanks for the video and info!
Thanks for sharing! Got no lights but my brake pedal would intermittently sink to the floor at a stop light. When I scanned my 2010 GX460 I got one permanent P2714 as well as four ABS codes: C1201, C1252, C1256 and C1452. Did not notice rough shifting or anything like that. When I cleared the ABS codes, my brakes became solid again and so far I only drove it for 40 mi. Something tells me there is a common component between the tranny and the ABS that is the real problem. Another thing is that the previous owner flushed the tranny oil on 175k and from the carfax it doesn’t look like it was ever flushed before. So my thought is, could the Toyota adaptive learn strategy be the issue. It is supposed to compensate for the wear and driver driving habits and has to be reset every time the tranny is repaired, rebuilt or replaced. So could the computer get confused after the new clean fluid was introduced into the system? Will order a new output speed sensor and see if that does the trick.
I had an evap p0456 code on permanent and went away after replacing gas cap and then i get a p2714 code, took to toyota and they said not to worry since it didnt have a check engine light and no issues with transmission. Truck is driving good i did a drop and fill but code still on permanent code. i did buy me a trans filter, gasket, more trans fluid and a solenoid D slt and hoping itll fix the issues when i do it in 2 weeks waiting on the trans fluid.
Are there 2 Speed Sensors on the Tundra? I have a 2013 Tundra. It says "Output Speed Sensor" on the codes. Is the output speed sensor towards the front or rear on the passengers side?
The output sensor is on the rear passenger side of the transmission. I haven’t researched the location of the input speed sensor, but it would be at the front measuring engine crank speeds.
Thank you so much for your post. I had the exact same experience you reported. I did end up getting DTC 0722 recently. I then saw your post. I changed out the output speed sensor and truck now runs amazing…exact same as you reported . The permanent DTC codes 0894 and 2714 are still in the system but 0722 dropped off. I saw you posted the codes dropped off. How long did it take for 0894 and 2714 codes to eventually drop off? I’ve driven 140 miles and they still show. Did you drive 5000km before they dropped off? If so, I have a long way to go…
Hey, good to hear it helped someone else out. My “permanent codes” have still not cleared. Maybe only the dealership can do that instead of a certain amount of time or kilometers. But, I haven’t seen an engine light or had a need to rescan whatsoever, truck is running great still. But when I ran a check a couple months back, the permanent “solenoid D stuck off” and “transmission component slipping” codes still showed. I’ll update if that ever changes, and I’ll run a code check periodically for my own curiosity.
I've had the same issue for at least two years all I've done is turn off engine and restart . but now is way more often. i replaced the speed sensor bought from amazon and it worked for two days, not sure if part is the issue or something else. DESCONECT THE BATTERY HELPS.
I would disconnect the battery for 5 min. That would clear the limp mode. Only a couple times it needed that. Usually just a light, and that’s it. The Blue Driver app can easily clear the code too. Only after I swapped the speed sensor did the light stop coming on. So far no issues since I made this video. Approx 7000 km.
I have the same problem with code P2714 pressure control solenoid D with my 2013 tundra. I search your part fit my truck. But i never change it before. Is it easy to you by replace it? Thanks for advice.
No I didn’t have to replace anything inside the transmission, just this output shaft speed sensor that is accessible from the outside of the transmission. The issues with the solenoid and the transmission slipping was all resolved by simply changing the speed sensor alone. 👍
It’s worth a shot, it hopefully works for you. You’ll need to locate the sensor on the rear passenger side of the transmission. Remove the electrical clip on the sensor, then one bolt that holds the sensor to the side of the transmission, it’s a very easy install. You will need a small 4” extension on the socket wrench to get to the single bolt. Good luck!
I change the sensor, still doing the same. When I'm driving the truck turns off turn it back on & turns back off.. the engine & the A/T Oil temp lights are on
I've got an experience of truck bumps between 20 and 35 mph, when slowed down for traffic, then easily accelerate and i get a bump, sometimes hard sometimes not so hard. Truck has 101k, truck is 2016 5.7l limited (now 2023). Anybody else,?
@@Carguy-fn5nf so it’s still doing it but what has helped it even though I followed the Toyota procedure step by step and set the level at the recommended fluid temperature of like 115-130 don’t quote me on that temperature range I’m just saying the approximate range. So instead of using the recommended range I reset the level at 99 degrees based off some recommendations I found online and it does seem to help. I’m from the south and it was definitely more of issues in the cold months, now that it is getting warmer it’s doing better sometimes i don’t have to reset the code at all and it drives perfectly normal. Good luck
@@Carguy-fn5nfoh one more thing that did help a ton was I went on Amazon and there’s this remote starter called start x it’s $199 for it; took about 30 minutes to install it was all plug and play. Anyways because my issue only shows itself when the fluid is cold by remote starting it and allowing the temperature of the transmission fluid to get warm before using the car I’ve had less issues overall. For the price and ease of the remote start it’s a pretty good solution not to mention it’s nice to have the truck warm in the cabin when it was cold too. Anyways good luck with yours
@@CarlosChataing so short answer is no, however I have the transmission pan currently off the car and I’m waiting for the S4 solonoid to come in. I started getting code P0983 which I wanted to figure out what was going on. I used a multimeter to determine all the solonoids besides S4 or solonoid D was within normal al ohms specification. So I ordered S4 solonoid and I’m hoping this finally fixes the problem.
Update: Just passed 5000km with the new sensor, everything is working perfectly still, great gas mileage, no codes. $140. #winning
Where'd you you the sensor
@@hinds90 Toyota parts department.
This helped god bless you man!!
@@joelvelasquez5564 that’s great stuff!
So glad I found this. Luckily this was exactly the same fix for me. Thanks.
@@chikombechela2460 that’s good to hear!
So glad I saw your video. Had the same code. I changed my transmission fluid and filter, tested and cleaned the solenoid,(it was fine) to see if it helped, same issue. I replaced the transmission sensor for a 2012 Tundra 4.6 ( note: not the same as the one in the video) and it resolved the issue. Runs smoothe and all. Thank you so much for your help.
Good to hear it resolved your problems. 🤙
We build a lot of these transmissions for performance use and we have run into P2757 a lot and it never seems to get fixed by changing the solenoid. There are a lot of other vehicle issues that can cause it. It's sometimes a valve body wear issue that's correctable.
Need to fix or replace the valve body most time.
Same codes here. Swapped the sensor still don't have 5/6th gears. Going for a drain/fill tomorrow morning, hoping that's the fix. If not new valve body here we come.
What happened with the drain and fill?
Any updates
Any update with the truck?
Thank you for this! I have a 2016 Tundra SR and just came inside from swapping that sensor and unplugging the battery. Should know in a 1-2 weeks if that did the trick!
Update for anyone who reads the comments:
New sensor ($15 on Amazon) did the trick for a few weeks, but the light came back on for the permanent code. Found a thread online that said the issue is likely one of the valves itself, and I found out yesterday the dealership does not open transmissions to repair. A new transmission and 14 hours of labor was quoted at $8,600 😂
It's funny my 2008 Lexus IS250 has the same code P2714 and the same problem thank you for this video👍
Glad it helped! 🤙
Thanks for the information. I had the engine light traction cod and vsc flashing. My t2007 tundra would not go past 4th gear. I found the sensor on Amazon for $13 dollars and changed it out. Everything is working great now and my gas milage has gone up. I checked my truck for codes and its still showing the p2714 but everything is running great. Maybe I just need to clear the code and see if it comes back. Also when removing the speed sensor the release on the clip is on the The very back end.
Any update on the 2714 code? Has it come back? Is the truck still driving good and has all gears?
Ever see this on a 2012 GX 460? Got a P2714 solenoid D stuck off code today and had it cleared at advanced. Have noticed no issues in the car handling at all
Every car owner should own the Blue Driver scanner to read all the vehicles you own. And I would try the speed sensor as a cheap potential remedy.
I just recently bought a 07 Tundra and am trying to sell my 98 4runner bc I’m getting shift solenoid codes as well as rough shifting. I don’t make a lot of $ and I didn’t want to invest $300+ more into it when I’m planning to sell it anyway. I found your video linked on a fb Tundra page. I’m going to replace the same sensor in my 4R and see if that fixes it. If it does, you’ve saved me a ton of money and I will definitely update and pay it forward. Thanks for the video and info!
Good luck 👍
What is the update?
Did you fix the problem?
Did this fix the problem
Thanks for sharing!
Got no lights but my brake pedal would intermittently sink to the floor at a stop light. When I scanned my 2010 GX460 I got one permanent P2714 as well as four ABS codes: C1201, C1252, C1256 and C1452. Did not notice rough shifting or anything like that. When I cleared the ABS codes, my brakes became solid again and so far I only drove it for 40 mi. Something tells me there is a common component between the tranny and the ABS that is the real problem. Another thing is that the previous owner flushed the tranny oil on 175k and from the carfax it doesn’t look like it was ever flushed before. So my thought is, could the Toyota adaptive learn strategy be the issue. It is supposed to compensate for the wear and driver driving habits and has to be reset every time the tranny is repaired, rebuilt or replaced. So could the computer get confused after the new clean fluid was introduced into the system?
Will order a new output speed sensor and see if that does the trick.
I had an evap p0456 code on permanent and went away after replacing gas cap and then i get a p2714 code, took to toyota and they said not to worry since it didnt have a check engine light and no issues with transmission. Truck is driving good i did a drop and fill but code still on permanent code. i did buy me a trans filter, gasket, more trans fluid and a solenoid D slt and hoping itll fix the issues when i do it in 2 weeks waiting on the trans fluid.
Are there 2 Speed Sensors on the Tundra? I have a 2013 Tundra. It says "Output Speed Sensor" on the codes. Is the output speed sensor towards the front or rear on the passengers side?
The output sensor is on the rear passenger side of the transmission. I haven’t researched the location of the input speed sensor, but it would be at the front measuring engine crank speeds.
Thank you so much for your post. I had the exact same experience you reported. I did end up getting DTC 0722 recently. I then saw your post. I changed out the output speed sensor and truck now runs amazing…exact same as you reported . The permanent DTC codes 0894 and 2714 are still in the system but 0722 dropped off. I saw you posted the codes dropped off. How long did it take for 0894 and 2714 codes to eventually drop off? I’ve driven 140 miles and they still show. Did you drive 5000km before they dropped off? If so, I have a long way to go…
Hey, good to hear it helped someone else out. My “permanent codes” have still not cleared. Maybe only the dealership can do that instead of a certain amount of time or kilometers. But, I haven’t seen an engine light or had a need to rescan whatsoever, truck is running great still. But when I ran a check a couple months back, the permanent “solenoid D stuck off” and “transmission component slipping” codes still showed. I’ll update if that ever changes, and I’ll run a code check periodically for my own curiosity.
According to google, the permanent codes should clear after 200 mi of driving or 15 warm up cycles. Perhaps this is not a case for all vehicles
Hello, thanks for the video. Can you show how to replace the speed sensor?
Did you have any reverse issues?.. mine occasionally won't reverse
No, I had no issues with reverse gear.
Mine doeent occasionally reverse either. Any luck?
@@RiversBradley79 I replaced my transmission yesterday took me two days
Guess what the new tranny 107k miles. Started the intermittent reverse BS again... I can't believe it
I've had the same issue for at least two years all I've done is turn off engine and restart . but now is way more often.
i replaced the speed sensor bought from amazon and it worked for two days, not sure if part is the issue or something else.
DESCONECT THE BATTERY HELPS.
Did it stop throwing the code since you replaced the speed sensor?
I would disconnect the battery for 5 min. That would clear the limp mode. Only a couple times it needed that. Usually just a light, and that’s it. The Blue Driver app can easily clear the code too. Only after I swapped the speed sensor did the light stop coming on. So far no issues since I made this video. Approx 7000 km.
Should you disconnect the battery before switching the sensor?
It’s a good idea to disconnect the battery.
Ok, take both terminals off then?
Just disconnect the negative terminal.
Thanks man.
Ya no worries. Pay it forward 🤙
I have the same problem with code P2714 pressure control solenoid D with my 2013 tundra. I search your part fit my truck. But i never change it before. Is it easy to you by replace it? Thanks for advice.
Ask your Toyota parts department for an: Output shaft speed sensor.
So you did replace the solenoid D
No I didn’t have to replace anything inside the transmission, just this output shaft speed sensor that is accessible from the outside of the transmission. The issues with the solenoid and the transmission slipping was all resolved by simply changing the speed sensor alone. 👍
thank you so much, hopefully everything goes will on mine
It’s worth a shot, it hopefully works for you. You’ll need to locate the sensor on the rear passenger side of the transmission. Remove the electrical clip on the sensor, then one bolt that holds the sensor to the side of the transmission, it’s a very easy install. You will need a small 4” extension on the socket wrench to get to the single bolt. Good luck!
thanks iwill let u knw 👍
I change the sensor, still doing the same. When I'm driving the truck turns off turn it back on & turns back off.. the engine & the A/T Oil temp lights are on
I've got an experience of truck bumps between 20 and 35 mph, when slowed down for traffic, then easily accelerate and i get a bump, sometimes hard sometimes not so hard.
Truck has 101k, truck is 2016 5.7l limited (now 2023).
Anybody else,?
What is the part number?
I show the package in the video, just pause it, take a screenshot and zoom in.
This did NOT fix my 2008 sequoia with p2714 and p0761
What fixed your truck?
@@Carguy-fn5nf so it’s still doing it but what has helped it even though I followed the Toyota procedure step by step and set the level at the recommended fluid temperature of like 115-130 don’t quote me on that temperature range I’m just saying the approximate range. So instead of using the recommended range I reset the level at 99 degrees based off some recommendations I found online and it does seem to help. I’m from the south and it was definitely more of issues in the cold months, now that it is getting warmer it’s doing better sometimes i don’t have to reset the code at all and it drives perfectly normal.
Good luck
@@Carguy-fn5nfoh one more thing that did help a ton was I went on Amazon and there’s this remote starter called start x it’s $199 for it; took about 30 minutes to install it was all plug and play. Anyways because my issue only shows itself when the fluid is cold by remote starting it and allowing the temperature of the transmission fluid to get warm before using the car I’ve had less issues overall. For the price and ease of the remote start it’s a pretty good solution not to mention it’s nice to have the truck warm in the cabin when it was cold too.
Anyways good luck with yours
@@G0dyodid tou fixed it?
@@CarlosChataing so short answer is no, however I have the transmission pan currently off the car and I’m waiting for the S4 solonoid to come in. I started getting code P0983 which I wanted to figure out what was going on. I used a multimeter to determine all the solonoids besides S4 or solonoid D was within normal al ohms specification. So I ordered S4 solonoid and I’m hoping this finally fixes the problem.