Toyota Transmission FAIL at 125k?! (P2714; U760E)
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2020
- This 2015 Toyota Camry came in at 125k miles with a Check Engine light on, and minor transmission shifting and shudder complaints.
P2714 - Shift Solenoid Performance stored.
After following the factory diagnostic checks, and doing a fluid change, it was still bad news for the customer...
LAUNCH DIAGUN:
www.amazon.com/dp/B072FHLYRY/...
Enjoy!
Ivan - Авто та транспорт
Looked up the service history on this car and the transmission fluid was changed only 2 years ago at 71949 miles. Having the fluid look that bad after only 2 years is a red flag on the transmission quality.
This particular car??
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yes. When you were showing your Alldata screen I saw the vin
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I agree with some of your other posters that there is contamination in the transmission fluid. One possible place to look is the transmission cooler. Possible that coolant is leaking into the transmission.
@@kentwise1215 Do you work at a Toyota dealership to be able to look up that info?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No. I have a small diagnostics and repair business that reports service through CarFax. I ran a CarFax service history.
Scotty won’t sleep for 6 months watching this video 😂
Every automobile (Toyota's included) falls into this category,
"If it's got tits or a motor, it's gonna give you trouble".
@@hatfez If it has tits it's a female, NO!
@@hatfez you are my laugh for today! I enjoyed that.
The new Toyota is anti repair
@@Shumayal As is most cars these days. But at the same time, people shouldn't be completely foolish and naive and believe that a fluid that lubricates a mechanical component will in fact last the lifetime of the vehicle. That's just common sense. I mean, why do you change your oil periodically? The same reason applies to transmissions (no matter what BS people say... "lifetime fluid" or "sealed transmission").
I”ll go crazy with all those greens lights popping up. This the reason why I keep driving my super reliable 99 Avalon and 06 Sequoia
You get used to it real quickly. I traded a 99 Camry for a 2016 Honda and the Honda has a light for the parking lights, one for the headlights, and if your cruise control is on but not active there's a third green light. Green blends into your periphery.
Rev up your engine and call Scotty....
@@scott8919 Okay Scotty
Nice...I drive 99 Camry & 03 Sequoia
You idiot, i own an 06 sequoia and ive ran into the same situation
When you don't change the fluid and filter at regular intervals, it causes the solenoids to stick especially the line pressure regulator/solenoid due to having more gunk blown through it at high pressures. This will cause low pressure which will start to burn the high bands and clutches out. It could also trash the planetary assembly, which these usually have 2. Its the final drives that usually take the hit harder from loss of fluid pressure which causes slips you might not even be able to feel. It compounds into heating the fluid up and causing it to burn which in turn makes the clutches hard and brittle and they start slipping more until the transmission is plumb wore out and shot.
How about an 07 tundra 5.7 with solenoid c and d stuck off codes? Any idea what might be wrong?
Late to this but if you change transmission fluid when solenoids are sticking , would it help ?? New fluid and new filter ?
"Sealed Transmission." What a joke.
I don't know where that particular term ever came from. I don't think there has ever been a transmission that could be considered "sealed". "Lifetime fluid" is likewise a myth..
Rumor has it the manufactures deleted the dip stick because The owner would use wrong fluid or overfill , I think Ivan’s explained it better
@@RobertHancock1 yes anyone that believes that are silly fluid gets dirty and needs to be changed on a gerbox or CVT every 100 thousand is plenty
@@RobertHancock1 Yes "Sealed" till warranty runs out.
@@chrisluquette1615 Exactly manufacturers using customers as guinea pigs.to test their transmissions
*SCOTTY KILMER LEFT THE CHAT*
Yeah, the same Scotty Kilmer that bought a Volkswagon Atlas
Scotty doesn't always love toyota, he also has issues.
It's strange, because he never brings up any of those problems that Toyotas have. He just keeps preaching to buy Toyotas, because they last forever without problems.
@@bmw803 that's what fanaticism does, I think he also does it for the clickbait effect. Although Toyota comes always first or second in reliability charts, they have had their bad apples (2007 Camry, Tacoma/ Tundra frames, 2010/2012 Prius oil consumption due to wore out rings, etc). That being said, for someone who doesn't know and doesn't want to know anything about their car, just get in, drive and once in a while get the oil changed, Toyota is the way to go.
@@mleindek I always tell everyone, buy what you like. Stats is one thing, reality is another. I would rather drive a GM that has no issues, than a Toyota with problems. So, at the end of the day, it's all the same shit. I have a 2015 chevy VOLT that never gave me issues so far. Had a 2001 Jetta TDI years ago that ran nearly 360,000 miles before I sold it without issues. I have a 2013 escape and only had 1 sensor problem that was covered under warranty. No problems. So, why would Toyota be the better way to go?? Because some are like you said "FANATICS"
100k subs! keep them vids rolling Ivan, kudos for the content and editing.
This kills the Scotty Kilmer
hahaha
Scotty is an hack. Many of the repairs he did are not done right!
@@thephantom1492 at least Scotty never welded a balljoint into a control arm like ETCG did.
@@walterk1221 I believe Eric O at SMA still has this from the meet up a few years ago. Ask him how the weld looks.
If bullshit was music Scotty Kilmer would be a brass marching band.
Taking the dipsticks away is a low blow.
The question is - is this going to be a pattern for these or is this a case of abuse or a manufacturing defect? Here in Europe there were a batch of C50 5 speed gearboxes in Corollas that went bad - typically by losing reverse or 3rd and 4th gear. The first one that did it that I knew of the dealers tried to fob the guy off but later on they would quietly complain about the "shocking condition" of the boxes and just replace them. This whole concept of "sealed transmissions" is also planned obsolescence. Manufacturers are doing this with oil changes - you know the interval for a lot of the Renault diesel engines is 18,000 miles now? On a diesel engine that is just pure abuse. The oil always builds up more soot and carbon than on a petrol.
Good job on this video! Your reasoning and explanations are the real life of a mechanic. It is not cut and dry all to often. I have a 2007 Camry 3.5 v6 w/ 180K and just lost the U660E transmission. It started with a shudder, then some shifting slips and then a check engine light. Over a period of several months. I really did not want to deal with it then. But it threw a P2770 code when I finally checked it out which is translated Torque Converter Clutch Circuit High. That was only a symptom. I too checked all the solenoids and all checked good. Replaced the fluid and the filter. This cleared the code but after five minutes of running the engine, the car just acted as if any gear was neutral. Not sure the fluid was ever changed before I bought the car. Consider what Scotty Kilmer says. If the transmission fluid has not been changed then take your chances and DON' T change it. It's probably too late. I share that opinion, also but in my case the transmission was wore out and perhaps because of various reasons other than just dirty fluid. I am almost 60 and have heard this theory since I was 14 yrs old when worked on my first car and was reminded this by a transmission shop recently as well. That sucks but let the dirt keep it going. Lol. Again, good job on the video footage and explanations! It gave me some insight me as well.
Whoa whoa whoa... Let's not give Nissan CVTs that much credit 😂
@Robert Burley good thinking
Hi
CVT has no reason to exist, all CVT must be utterly exterminated.
@@MacTechG4 Snowmobiles.
I have watched many videos here in the last three nights. This has to be one of the best sites with one of the best guys doing the work. Great job on all the work I have watched. I am very impressed with how thorough you are with you troubleshooting logic. I have just subscribed for more great content. Please keep the videos coming, you are doing us a real service.
I really appreciate the positive feedback! Enjoy the show! :)
I bet they never changed that fluid, Toyota and other manufacturers say their fluid is "life time" when that is absolutely NOT true.
It is for life. The life is just a lot shorter.
Yah anyone who believes that ‘lifetime’ crap needs a reality head check.
It is lifetime fluid... it lasts for the lifetime of the fluid; not of the vehicle.
That’s what they want I’m assuming they are doing the same thing Nissan is doing charging for the replacement of whole transmission while they just change the valve body to the transmission
Lifetime means 100,000 miles.
My Toyota Rav4 V6 2007 just passed 410,000 miles. Had the transmission flushed once. Still going strong. YMMV!
Ayy my moms got that car 210k but it’s a 4 cylinder.
Wow, that's a lots of driving. Do you live in your Rav4?
@@csjrogerson2377 no I am a bank inspector and at my peak I drive about 5K miles a month.
@@basecom70 Wow, thats a lot of miles. Dont envy you at all. I have heard that some ppl learn to fly a Robinson 22 helicopter. Does 100 mph, goes in straight lines and is cheap to run (not as cheap as a car but it saves you time), can land in a field. sports field or on top of certified buildings.
Me too 2012 camry 411k changed 2 times and torq convert
I'm sure that someone will disagree, but in my experience with Toyotas for the last 25 years, this is a rare occurrence at that mileage.
I agree, sounds like this transmission was either beaten on or one in thousands that just wasn’t good. Toyota’s 4 cylinder transmission tends to last longer than their V6’s, so this is a surprise to me.
Worked at a Toyota dealer for a decade , very rare indeed . At least for the years I worked there.
@@DavidisNice I've seen a thousand people say the 4 cylinder is better and a thousand say the V6 is better lol
Mine is doing the exact same thing with 147,000 miles.
This video proves that being a mechanic today is a skilled profession , the knowledge-factor is off the charts....
The old saying goes " Oil is cheaper than metal" Hopefully he learned his lesson after that
I will remember this saying every saturday morning.
🤣🤣
Wow what a mess, but great job Ivan anyway getting around all that instruction! You can only do so much!
Ivan you nailed it when you said they are not making them to last. With all the electronics and plastic components cars are slowly becoming throwaway items. Hate to say it but like you said at least he gets a 3 year warranty as long as the transmission shop stays in business during these crazy pandemic times. Thanks for sharing and you and wife stay safe and well. Artie 😊
Thanks for the video Ivan! I've been watching you for awhile and remembered some Toyota product you were working on involving shift solenoids. My 2010 Lexus is 350 with the A760E popped up with P0761 and P2714 codes this morning for the first time. Car still shifts through all the gears but it has always had rough shifts. I've drained and filled multiple times because the fluid was about as dirty as that Toyota Camry. Really unfortunate I would have never thought my Lexus would have serious power train issues at 150k miles.
Change fluid when it’s time will keep them going for ever.
I dealt with several Toyota seal transmission with shaking problems and random codes related to bad fluid, drain and fill then drive and drain and fill several times fix it right up
Had an issue with shift solenoid D in my 07 tundra. Dealership wouldn’t change it. Said transmission was bad. I changed the solenoid D and filter. Then changed the fluid 3 times with Amsoil. Still shifting 1000 miles since repair. Fingers crossed. Great video!!
Same here with honda awd crv 2/3 selonoid, changed and went to amsoil, sold it at 134K running well with zero shift problems.
I have the same problem permormance solenoid c and d stuck off. Changed fluid twice still giving me codes. Changed with toyota ws fluid. Should i switch to amsoil synthetic you think? How do you know its not the ecm? Always gives me trouble at initial startup. Almost like the tranny fluid doesnt heat up enough and clogs up or something throwing codes and going into limp mode even sometimes. Any thoughts?
@@vlsr71 Did you fix it?
@@rauldc6389 I just put it in gear 1 minute after startup so transmission can warm up along with engine. Tranny doesn't seem to get hot enough to give me a smooth shifting then leading to the limp mode. After I let it warm up now for 5 minutes minimum in gear, depending how cold it is outside, it works fine and hasn't gone into limp mode in a while but Its also not my daily driver either.
@@vlsr71 Thanks, have a similar problem.
"Even a Nissan with a CVT last longer than that!" SHOTS FIRED, SHOTS FIRED!!!
Yeah I’ll agree 1000% those CVT’s in general are crap that includes all makers
i flushed my volvo wagon fluid that was over 200K miles due, and it was more red an transparent than this fluid, and i drive the balls out of it..damn
True, but not much longer. I had a new one installed at 200000km at now at 380000km, sounds like I’m soon due for another one. You’d think the longer the manufacturers build these, the better they’d get. Have you seen any “Made in China” tags on them? Lol
I've seen a Nissan CVT fail at 25k.
@@nosliwttam77 and they can go a long ways too, just as any transmission. Our Rogue has 322,000km on the CVT, still runs great.
What I think will emerge from this ridiculous process will be for owners to do drain and fills after a full cold soak, eg overnight, replacing exactly what comes out in terms of volume. The formal refill process is highly sensitive to temperature/volume changes. A cold drain/refill at least ensures a one-for-one fluid volume replacement.
My '16 corolla CVT failed at 53k miles, the blower fan failed at 40k miles and the radio would black out and you would have to shut the car off and restart it. Toyota wanted over a grand to replace the radio.
WTF sounds like a lemon haha
Super dirty=clutches are shot.
I've seen some transmissions come back to life (for a while) with a good flush, filter & fresh fluid.
The only thing keeping it running was the dirt on the clutches. I've seen burnt transmission fluid many times.
Wow, that was real dirty fluid!! But putting used trans, it would be same problem as the original one. I thought about that too on my suburban, but rebuilding it is best option. So you did what you could do for customer on money wise. I like what you did with the checks, solenoid and resistance etc. Pretty cool. Didn't think you can do that lol. Nice video, ivan!
I believe that trans would have lived if the fluid was changed at 40-50k mile intervals. Sure it’s another $150-200 that you have to spend each time, but it’s a lot cheaper than $3,000 for a new transmission.
I have a 2006 Mazda 6 2.3 still running with 315,000 miles and I have never once changed the transmission fluid since the day I bought it and it shifts just fine Toyotas are now junk!!!!!
I so agree. I wish the manufacturers would go back to that recommendation for the sake of the average driver.
@@utuber2940 auto or manual?
I agree with you, but I believe a lot of these new cars are calling their transmission fluid a lifetime fluid. I suspect you are absolutely correct if he had just done a dump and refill every 50k this probably would not have occurred. That fluid looked absolutely disgusting.
it is ridiculous to me that they got rid of the dipstick because at least you could pull the dipstick and look at the color and see that it's turning a little dark and you could get the fluid changed.
My driveline mechanic tells me the same. Change at 50 k intervals and Bob's your Oil Change guy. ( see link ) He also says nothing has really changed since the Hydramatic
transmissions were introduced. Except the fluid. But the demands on the small tranny's are
" greater " . Also they rob less HP. bobistheoilguy.com/automatic-transmissions-study/ for those that cannot handle the math - there are pictures !
Yes, like Toyota says the fluid doesn’t need changing and lasts the life of the transmission, which in this case is 125K miles! As long as it lasts for the warranty period it has done it’s job!
I own a 2009 Toyota Corolla have never changed or checked transmission fluid still shifting smoothly at 270,000 miles!!
I bet you dont floor it when its cold
Soon bro soon 😂
@@kavindals regardless 270k is a great amount of mileage for never changing the fluid. If it was a chrysler, it would’ve gone out at 40k
@@cesarurzua8234 who buy chrysler , its a utter shit 😂
@@kavindals “proud americans” who think they’re being patriotic bc they’re buying “american”, some dude on a toyota video tried telling me chryslers are well built cars and better than “garbage toyotas” lmao, prob a troll
Transmission on my 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L 4 Cyl went out at 270,000 ish miles, the car still ran but would skip and jump gears between 40-60 MPH RPM would jump to 5 and come back to 2, and I got a used transmission with around 75K miles. Then the engine developed a rod knock around 310,000 miles, it ran but loud diesel truck type noise from engine. Replaced that engine too.
Wow I have same car. Do you still have it😄
Thanks for your follow up at the end. Currently diagnosing a 2016 Tacoma with this code and intermittent hard shifts. Only has 46k miles on it. Very strange to see a Toyota transmission go bad this early. The customer stated that the truck sat for years so we are wondering if that has something to do with it. Think we're going to do the fluid flush and do as you did and have the customer report back to us what they experience. If the problem persists we'll have them go the re-man or new replacement route too.
I have seen many Toyotas at the auction that have major problems.
IMPOSSIBLE, why??? Scotty said so!!!
THE END OF TOYOTA RELIABILTY:
SCOTTY KILMER......lol
SHOT THEMSELVES IN THE FOOT TO INCREASE PROFIT. SAD. I HEAR NISSAN IS COMING UP IN QUALITY. IS THERE ANY TRUTH TO THAT?
🤣🤣🤣
@Speed Gate Except Nissan was already falling... since the 2000s
@@seymourscagnetti1413 I won't go that far my friend! Nissan will never come even close to Toyota and Honda!
@@seymourscagnetti1413 no
Ivan how you found those testing terminals near the bottom of the engine bay to connect for your electrical test was short of a miracle. I saw the adjustable mirror but seeing each of those tiny terminals had to be hard. Kudo's to you for being able to do that test. The toyota engineers designed that transmission filling procedure during national drug abuse day! Scotty and was fordtechmakuloco were recommending that people change their trans fluids at 50K. I still get hammered when I say that the loss of the trans dipstick is why I do not want a new car (fly by wire is my second rant). Thanks for the light show. I feel sorry for the toyota owner.
Just found this channel, love the honesty.
Easy drain and refill. Usually 2.5 qts. 104-113 degrees check level
Could have tried a couple more fluid swaps to get most of it....still a lot of old fluid left changing only 4 qts
That was my thought also, two or three more drain-and-fills. Can't hurt anything at that point
That probably could've helped, but the transmission seemed like is was already fried anyway.
...or drop that pan especially if it has a filter that can clog with material....
Maybe... but looking at that "syrup", I doubt it. For certain that was the original transmission fluid. After 125,000 of thought-free, service-free, care-free motoring... all hell came to roost, with a crash. I think that any transmission that functioned that well, while being completely neglected that long, should be pitied, not condemned (unlike the clueless owner). HEED THINE OWNER's MANUAL!
@@leoashrae4199 yeah no fixing that, guaranteed full of burnt clutch materials
Great diag and a quality learning lesson, Thanks a lot.
From what I have read on the fluid height, when you measure the fluid you took out and when you replace the new oil, the oils need to be at the same temperature so that the volumes to be the same. Thanks for the video.
If the cars warmed up we used to check oil then add if needed same would work here
@@markkus1134 The problem is there is no dipstick to check the height with.
I had the same problem in my 2007 Lexus IS 350 with 95k miles. The previous owner didn't change the transmission fluid at all. The car started shifting weird then starting throwing the same codes, then wouldn't go into reverse. We changed the fluid a couple of times, changed the solenoids and no difference. It was a pain to fill and drain the fluid. Eventually, we had a transmission shop put in a used rebuilt transmission. We have a BMW with 140k miles and Benz with 210k miles and their transmissions are fine, we just change the fluids around 40k miles. It is so much easier to service our german cars. Toyota has gone down regarding its quality and reliability, gone are their halo days of bulletproof reliability. We had a Lexus ES 330 before the IS 350, it was easy to service and fix with no problem, unlike the new ones.
I was just about to buy a 2016 camry with 110k on it. Never bought toyota before. I was Soo on the cusp of switching! The timing is too perfect. Thanks 👍
haha get a 2001 Camry....way better build quality :)
Thank you for the video. Nothing in this world is like it used to be. I am currently restoring a 1986 toyota camry le.
My 2014 sienna also had same issues at 88,000. Had to replace at my own expense... I owned since new so I can definitely say it wasn't abused prior to failure.
Most car manufacturers don't recommend gear box oil change at any time which is crazy.
Maybe that is where the problem lies.
Most cars are built on the cheap these days ,don't tell Scotty about this.
Nice video.
The color of that fluid is so dark it looks like its been overheated and the car has been abused.
I'm also scratching my head....125000 and dead?
water
likely never changed and an in town endless stop-go driver. possibly did deliveries, part/paper delivery or similar. that's very hard on them ;)
IVE SEEN TRUCK TRANS FLUID WITH OVER 300 THOUSAND MILES,,, none looked like that .. I think it has water in it.
Yeah that's contaminated fluid.
looked exactly like typical slipping/burnt clutch and band material in the fluid. which it would do from low line pressure , loss of control/stuck in one gear. the truck is guaranteed to have wiring, ecm, grounds and other issues.
but for sure check/replace the radiator and any coolers, flushing them doesn't work enough to get all the old material out and if it was a major burnout, the cooler/s could be clogged and an quickly destroy the new trans from overheating, with everything else perfect!
Scotty Kilmer is now mad at you for showing that his beloved Toyota brand have breakdowns.
Every car breaks lol
@Adam SpeckWell, the problem with today is that people want maintenance free cars and them to last forever without breaking down. 20-30 years ago vehicles had crazy amounts of maintenance done to them as early as 60,000 miles, (timing belts, spark plugs, wires, oil changes, etc) and people didn’t have a problem doing so. Today people are pushing oil changes up to 20,000 miles! I mean what do you expect? Of course older cars were more reliable because people took care of them! And the thing with Toyota is that, they can still be as reliable, but they need their maintenance. What I like about Toyota in particular, is that whenever they have an issue with any of their vehicles, instead of throwing that design away, they find ways to improve them, and make them reliable, and not many car manufacturers do that.
@@thinkkops853 Yep! Every car breaks down but some brands tend to break down more often than others. Apparently Toyota/Lexus haters in the comment section cant understand this concept
This 6 speed in this car is pretty bullet proof, I wonder if whoever serviced it screwed up on it?
im guessing a quick lube put wrong fluid in
No automatic transmission is bullet proof they will all fail. The longest ive seen is 500,000 miles
Bulletproof with proper maintenance.
1st drain and fill at 60,000, then every 30,000.
Toyota master tech with 10 years experience.
i have a 2015 toyota camry, bought it used with about 40k on it, i did change the trans fluid first chance i got and it was nice and red, did the same procedure you did, just drain it, measure the fluid that came out and put the same amount back in and used that little drip device procedure...so far so good. I'd say he should've changed the fluid prior, didn't look like it was changed at all in 125k....probably will change the fluid every 40k (almost at 70k miles now). btw, i had a 2009 chevy malibu, transmission puked at 160k and i did have it flushed regularly, once a year...still puked. Dealer quoted me 3500 for a new rebuilt (this was the 6 speed), that's when i went and bought the camry
Hi Ivan, Pittsburgh 2017 Avalon U660e owner checking in, by no means subject matter expert but feel I am competent DIY. I wanted to share lessons learned on dealing with level checks and not having a dipstick, as this Avalon is my first experience with this. My understanding of the TSB in your video is that the complex and expensive tools are for checking the fluid level on a fully hot transmission. I learned through internet research that for my U660e, with the car level and idling (starting from cold), watch trans oil temp on scan tool (or less accurate use IR temp gun on pan bottom), and with temp between 104 and 114 deg F, remove trans drain plug and with proper level, drain rate will be am slight trickle. That 6 mm plastic "straw" you showed is the overflow tube. If no flow, level was low, and if steady drain level is high, so let drain until that trickle is achieved. Note U760e may have a different temperature but the fluid level check process is likely similar. I use Aisin WS fluid from Rock Auto, as Aisin made my transmission (and Toyota has a stake in Aisin), and for filters I use OEM. Given the condition of the Camry fluid in your video, I would have taken it a step further and done a full pan removal and filter change as well, as if the fluid was nasty, the filter was probably pretty nasty as well. Agree with other posts that regular fluid changes are cheap insurance for any transmission, including Toyotas, I did the first one on my Avalon at 40k (and fluid was surprisingly brown in color). Love your videos and systematic troubleshooting approach, keep up the good work!
I use my scan tool, but here is representative video of how to check level ua-cam.com/video/CAxjhSphZBg/v-deo.html
+1, the complex fluid check procedure and SSTs are developed due to the problem of needing to check the level of a hot transmission... the standpipe (green plastic straw) is calibrated for a specific oil temperature (104 - 115F or nearly that on a lot of models)... so you just need to have the engine running and the car level to check the level... it is much harder then a simple dipstick but not as hard as the "test at any temperature with special tools" procedure they have in the book.
Have fixed several issues with slipping and rough engagement just by flushing out the burnt fluid. This transmission has a thermostat on the cooler lines but it is still possible to be flushed with patience.
I fixed my Toyota Avalon with same code. Took me time to do my research but found an article stating this problem is common with U660E and U760E transmissions. I ordered all original toyota parts = line pressure solenoid, internal complete wire harness that includes the stem that sticks out transmission that the transmission computer connects to, pan gasket, transmission fluid, and transmission filter. I drained tranny fluid removed pan and very carefully removed the valve body and brought it inside to work on. I made sure to get every spec of sand that landed on it when the stem was pulled out the transmission housing. Then I removed the temperature sensor that's bolted on first in order to be able to access the bolts that hold "solenoid D" in, disconnected all the other solenoids and removed connector stem/internal harness and replaced it with new one. I only changed the harness to eliminate it as being a cause of the code because on my scan tool it said the words "electrical" in code description. I brought the valve body back outside and lined up shift linkage pin with shift valve I think its called sticking out the valve body and reinstalled it. Ps be very careful to note locations and lengths of the valve body bolts when removing/reinstalling because there are I think 4 different lengths. bolt new filter on and pan gasket torque all to spec. I even added a dab of blue loctite to pan bolts. I refilled transmission through wheel well following instructions I found in UA-cam videos, car has to be level so before attempting this whole nerve racking job I backed the car onto ramps then lifted the front till car was level then supported on Jack stands in the front. I even put a magnetic level on frame of car to make sure car was level so fluid Level was going to be accurate being there's no dipstick. Trust me i was very nervous attempting this repair but necessity breeds courage. A coworker that's a transmission rebuilder on the side was supposed to "fit me in" but 2 months of driving the car like that with this guy blowing me off I was scared I was causing internal damage so I knew I'd have to be brave and do it myself. Another reason to do it myself was I went to a local transmission shop explained the code and I knew the guy was going to end up telling me I needed a whole transmission just like what happened to pine hollows customer. Doing a lot of digging online I found the article about the common problem with these Toyota transmissions and solenoids, I found a transmission magazine video that i paused and took screenshots of to identify the solenoid D because there's like 4 or 5 in the valve body and Toyota diagram didn't specify anything as D, and once I knew which was D I correlated the screenshot to the black and white Toyota diagram on the sunrise Toyota online parts website. I ordered parts and THANK GOD I succeeded the codes been gone for 9 months and driving fine without all the symptoms that bad solenoid was causing. By far the most delicate DIY repair I've done to any of the cars I've owned but I succeeded. Cost to fix it with parts and fluid in the $400-$500 range or maybe less cant remember. Good luck, and if not doing it yourself good luck finding someone to actually fix the transmission vs replacing it unnecessarily at YOUR expense.
Great work! 😁👌
I’ve been a Toyota tech for the last 10 years and I can tell you 100% the quality has gotten so bad over the years. They are not the same cars anymore. Also Toyota advertises their WS “world standard” fluid as a maintenance free lifetime fluid. There are no service intervals for their transmission fluid. Which I find pretty ridiculous because you can see what happened to the quality of the fluid.
I know somebody with a 2017 Corolla that she bought new, and the transmission in that car went at just 30k. That noise at 21:16 sounds like a bearing. What do you think? Also, have you seen any new camrys come back with bad transmissions?
True that. That WS fluid is a shame. I got that crap in my 06 Sequoia. Toyota screwed up when they took out the damn transmission fill stick and replaced it it with some ridiculous procedure to drain and properly fill.
@@jeremyanthony9300 the Corolla cvts are awful. Toyota tried remedying the problem with a software update but it didn’t really help. Mostly people just complain about the shift feel on all of the new Toyota transmissions. Tacoma’s are the absolute worst
@@jeremyanthony9300 I’m not sure what that noise is. Sounds very similar to the rear electronic parking brake engagement/disengagement but the Camry’s don’t have that. Not sure tbh. Haven’t ran into that
I'm a little disappointed in Ivan on this one. I feel like anyone mechanically minded knows that 100k + miles on transmission fluid is neglect, regardless of what the manufacturer says.
And IMO Toyota WS is completely unnecessary. My 10 Tundra just rolled 230k, 200 k of that is on generic multi vehicle transmission fluid that Toyota most certainly does NOT recommend.
Difference is, the fluid gets changed every 30k
Anyone could see that looking at the fluid you drained out.
Excellent job on the diagnosis, and good advice to the owner. I wonder if the transmission place is seeing many of these?
I would have tried to get a rebuilt valve body (Sonnax brand) or change all 4 shift solenoids. I just did this on lexus with the same series transmission. considerable saving with this approach. in addition, the transmission can be air checked with the valve body out to rule out other problems.
I've actually seen a video of someone following the formal check process with the actual Toyota SSTs and it's utterly ridiculous. The equipment alone probably costs around $1k.
Back in the 1980s, what would have been the minimum expected mileage for a never serviced (not a single drain and fill) transverse automatic transmission?
Love your videos❤ newer cars are really weak and expensive to repair, such as direct injection gasoline and diesel ad blue urea equipment and two egr systems
Had this issue with my dad Toyota Tundra 2008 that was at 175,000 miles. He never did a transmission flush so I did that for him and cleared the code. The truck was shifting fine for a good 3 months then afterward, the same code came back pointing at solenoid 4. I ended up flushing and removing the transmission pan and a few extra bolts and luckily, i was able to access the S4 and swap it out for a new one. Transmission back to shifting normal now.
I have that car. Maint. book says, "Towing a trailer, using a camper or car top carrier" as special operating conditions. Under "additional maintenance requirements" it says change auto trans fluid at 72 mo or 96000km / 60000 mi. Our 15 Camry is just passing 5 years old, and is a short time away from the 72 month fluid call anyway. I'm in Canada, everything is "special operating conditions" up here. The car has only 50000 km / 31000 miles on it (not a daily driver), and even at this low mileage, that trans is getting new fluid soon, mostly because of the fact, I can't look at the damn dipstick color. Thanks for the video to remind me of this.
Our 2002 Honda civic, got a re-man auto transmission this past summer at 205mi / 330000 km, and its manual says new trans fluid every 24000 km / 15000 miles. We bought the car used with 60,000 miles (100k km), with almost as black fluid like that 10 years ago. We did a few partial fluid changes on it. The word around here is (and my mechanic agrees, at least with the Honda), if you put brand new fluid in a trans that is way overdue, the detergents in the new fluid can wash up varnishes and mess up the valve body. I monitored the Honda with partial changes for 200000km, before it packed it in for almost 10 years.
Planned obsolescence, is the name of the game these days. Toyota is as guilty as everyone else :(
These Camrys can't be that unreliable though, there are 1000's of them running around in the taxi fleets here in southern Ontario, many of them 4 to 10+ years old.
Ivan, love your videos, I watch them all, just like SMA. You will hit 100000 subs soon.
Edit: I'm not disputing Ivan's call to replace the fluid in this case. At that point, I would try anything to save the trans. I'm only an educated consumer / backyard mechanic. I watched another video where the fluid was changed at 60,000 miles, and that color was a little scary. That's a lot to ask for only 6 quarts of fluid to do all that work, and last that long.
Automakers have been doing this whole "lifetime fluid" BS for many years now, and no service intervals quite often for the "Life" of the transmission....well sure, however long that will be without any regular fluid changes. The transmission fluid is a hell of a lot cheaper than a transmission or a new car. Yep, most if not all automakers have removed the transmission dipstick at least from up top where you can easily access it. My 08 Ford Explorer still has a dipstick, however you have to crawl under the vehicle remove a cover and pull the dipstick which just so happens to be about 2 inches away from one of the catalytic converters....dumb place to put it, but at least it has a dipstick.
I have always followed the severe service intervals for my vehicles and never had any issues. With the transmissions I usually do 40,000-50,000 mile service intervals except with my HD truck which is every 30,000-35,000 miles as it gets used as a tow vehicle a lot. I just do a drain and fill with new filter. I'm going to be doing the same with the Explorer. I didn't have a record of the transmission service ever being done on the Explorer when I got it at 125,000 miles which is about when the book says to change it for regular driving conditions. I had the fluid changed and new filter put in. No issues so far...and I doubt it has ever been used for towing since the trailer light plug was full of nice green corrosion from lack of use LOL.
Planned obsolescence is quite a common trend with everything these days. They can't get you back on a car lot for another $80k pile of crap car if they don't make them to fail after 5 years.
Kilmer moved to the hills of Tennessee and said screw all this new bull crap!!!!!
My experiences with the U760e would recommend changing the Pressure solenoid or better yet putting a reman valve body in it, if there's no metal or heavy clutch material in the pan. It's a pretty basic repair and quite common. Use only Toyota WS oil also. There's overheating problems with aftermarket "universal" oils.
I worked in transmission engineering for one of the Detroit 3 in the 1980s developing some of the first electronically controlled transmission (prototypes).
When ATF changes color it is a sign that the friction material on the clutches is wearing off. Changing the fluid can help extend the life, but if it is very dark (like this one), the transmission does not have a lot of life left.
Friction material wear is caused by A) poor quality/wrong material and/or B) extended shift times. When I say "shift time", I am referring to the time it takes to get from one gear to the next. Customers like extended shift times (fast shifts are considered "harsh"/undesirable). Long shifts can cause excessive wear (the clutches ARE slipping). With electronics it is easy to "program" long shift times.
Choose one or the other !
High heat alone will turn the fluid black.
"Even a Nissan with a CVT will last longer than that". Wow. Toyota, the ball is in your court. You have some work to do in order to step back on that #1 podium.
Why? Cause one unmaintained trans fails? Righto..
Still.are on that #1 podium
The guy had service done at a service lube place and hundred percent they didn’t put the right fluid
Ask Nissan if it will last more than 40k.
@@scientist100 Depends on the vehicle and maintenance
That fluid had not been changed. if you change the transmission fluid every 40 to 60,000 miles you probably will not have this problem.
Thanks for making this video. Couldn't agree more with the transmission dipstick. My wives Buick Encore has no dipstick. I do the same procedure as you. Drain, measure & refill. Beats the $250 dealer price. I get 2 gallons of Dexron V1 for $45. Easier then dropping the pan in the older days but I can't change the filter anymore
I changed the fluid and filter on my ATS with the 6L45 in a day. Dropping pan wasn't hard at all!
I have 2014 Rav4 with same transmission with 180,000 miles and smooth like butter
Hi Ivan,
First thing to find out is what cooked that transmission fluid. Is the engine overheating? I've been fixing cars for a very long time and I used to swap transmissions when I was younger and used transmissions only cost $75.00 and took an evening to do.
I found that the replaced units almost always crapped out if the original fluid was burnt. In fact, the fluid usually came out of the replacement units burnt too. If the fluid was cherry rid in the original unit, the transmission transmission transplant was usually successful.
Transmission fluid almost always lasts forever if it runs cool enough, but burns easily when the trans overheats.
Next item... when you can always try and replace the transmission fluid filter and clean the magnet. Some trans filters bypass, some, well not so much. Clutch material sloughs off the disks in normal use, once you get enough clutch material into the filter, bad things can happen. So theoretically, you could be operating the solenoids but not have enough pressure to shift gears.
Another item, I didn't hear you comment on the smell of the fluid, if it's black and doesn't smell burnt... which is very rare... the black is just friction material and the fluid isn't really burnt, in this case, the filter is by passing, the fluid is technically still good but the clutches are just worn bald.
These days, being old and decrepit... I have a trans shop do most of my work... when a trans is slipping (shot clutches) I usually go for a rebuild, if the trans locks up solidly in gear but has issues shifting I usually go for a valve body job. In the olden days, bad shifting with clean fluid was usually a vacuum modulator.
When you diagnosed that the desired output RPM was below specification at a specified input RPM, you pretty much diagnosed slipping clutches and nothing was likely to help that short of new clutches.
As an older guy who learned auto diagnostics using a vacuum meter, a dwell meter and a good ear, I'm not sure I should be giving advise, but if I may add this observation. Over the years, I have come across so many aftermarket fluids that were designed to work in multiple vehicles that aren't exactly right for any one vehicle. The rocket scientists that design automatic transmissions design them to work right with a very specific fluid. Also you just about never get all of the old fluid out of a transmission so you have to deal with a mix of fluids in the transmission after the change and you have to ask yourself if the additive packages are going to play well together.
You don't necessarily have to use factory fluid, but you should always use fluid that's tested and certified by the car maker and therefore should have a manufacturer's certification number on it. I don't know if Valvoline is certified by Toyota, but if it isn't I would stay clear of it and use Toyota fluid, just to be safe.
Lastly Ivan, I very much appreciate your videos,. although I can't do a lot of work on cars at this point in my life, I like to stay current. I always prided myself on my diagnostic skills and I don't want to wind up like one of those old guys when I was a kid stuck in the flat head days... And for the most part, your videos are explained well enough that I can keep up while still learning new technology as you go. So thanks and keep up the good work.
What a wonderful and perceptive comment. It melds old time common sense techniques with the newer technology. Experience, rare common sense and understanding new tech is unbeatable , no matter what field you are in!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience! I am often humbled by these comments :)
Old Timers Rule :) I just use a hand held, point & shoot thermometer thingy :) Engine sump/ trans/ radiator top & bottom/ Bearings in wheels, alternator & aircon/ cat before & after... after a good run.
If you want to keep a spread sheet log, record ambient temp as well. Then you can pick up trends?
The thermometer can also be used on self & friends/ family - COVID test :)
RJ: My 2003 Camry is regularly maintained & has had trans fluid flushes. Lab reports ok. Auto trans shifts fine.
Just that reverse gear slips & grabs, sometimes, esp, up a steep driveway. Revving a bit, against handbrake seems to help.
Is this ok? 232,000 km ~ 145,000 miles.
Thanks for the comment.
@@lesliedsouza4077 Hopefully Ivan will correct me if I'm wrong, but as I vaguely recall most transmissions by 2003 were computer controlled and operated by electrical solenoids. Before that, automatic transmissions shifted on RPMs and vacuum with reverse being pretty much direct drive off the torque converter via a sun gear arrangement. I'm assuming your trans is one of the computer types.
Slips and grabs means different things to different people. If you mean the reverse engages and disengages this could be a solenoid in the valve body engaging and disengaging, which could be a bad solenoid or a wiring issue... if by slip and grab you mean the engine is turning too fast with regard to the wheel speed and then "slipping less" then it's the clutches not holding. Often when the clutches go out you kind of get a sweet spot where they hold best... they slip until they get enough pressure to engage and then they slip worse when you give the car more gas.
If it were a fluid pressure issue, you would very likely slip in all gears.
Ivan did a nice presentation of how to check the fluid and test the solenoids. And that's where I would start, assuming you can service the valve body without removing the transmission. If you have to R&R the transmission to service the valve body, you might as well go for a trans rebuild.
As to mileage vs Toyota reliability, at 150,000 miles all bets are pretty much off. Everything depends on how the car was driven. Still you could look and see if there were any TSB's regarding that transmission, not that Toyota is likely to be much help at this time and mileage.
As to flushes and services... that's a big question. If they were done at Toyota, I'm guessing they put in the right fluid and flushed it properly with transmission fluid, (and changed the filter if possible) if some budget oil change chain did the work that might be more of a problem than a solution. As fresh trans fluid is highly detergent, there's very little reason to do a chemical flush. In as much as it's hard to get all of the fluid out of a modern automatic transmission, you kind of have to assume some of of the flush gets left behind in the trans... so there's that.
In my experience, automatic transmissions never heal themselves but rather get worse over time. This would be a good time to diagnose the problem and price a repair. Remember, cars only break down when you need them most and when you are closest to the worst and most expensive shop in town. As for us DIY guys, I got rained on, sleeted on and snowed on doing a steering box R&R once... Thankfully, I had put the job off until the weather got better.
I can't diagnose your trans on line, but I hope I gave you a few ideas to think about.
The temp gun is a nice toy, you are less likely to burn your fingers when looking for things that are too hot. Unfortunately, I'm usually the guy who finds the thing that's too hot by accidently leaning on it or touching it. And yes, I know it sounds stupid, but for the most part I can smell things overheating and follow the odor until I touch something that singes off one or two layers of otherwise expendable skin... Yea, maybe I should look into one of those temp guns when I think about it... right after I give up looking for my old Sears inductive ammeter and spring for an amp clamp. ; )
That fluid should have been changed thousands of miles ago, I've seen better water!
Wow! De ja view! I just finished one of these. I did pretty much exactly the same check. I went and ohmed out the harness from the tranny connector to the ecm and ran power through them individually to chime a horn that way I could hear it I did one service just oil then a second to do screen and oil. Was going to pull the trans to rebuild it even with 341k on it I wasn't convinced. So I called it for an ecm ... Got one programed it ... Worked mint! Two tranny guys told me trans was smoked. Why I called the ecm was because when I took it apart I found one solder joint that looked funky.
I am so glad that I have a 2010 Camry with the 6 Speed Manual Transmission with the 2.5L with 208,000 miles. No issues. Long live the Manual Transmissions!!!
So many people fall for the lifetime fluid scam, 2011 malibu LT 2.4 4 cyl 218k and it's been changed 3 times, twice by me and once by the previous owner at 100k, and I know for a fact if I end up having to replace the trans it would be because they waited til 100k, transmission fluid should be done every 30-40k to get the best life from any car.
Looks like that fluid wasn’t changed at all. I have the same car with 122k and my fluid is dark red (I will be changing it soon). Something is definitely wrong with the transmission internally. First time I’ve heard of the 6 speeds having issues
@@tonyjones768 If your fluid is dark get it changed right away before it becomes a real problem. Whatever you do don’t get it flushed, it’ll make problems worse. Ask for a drain and fill, and filter change
That Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic is the best. I'd go further and replace that fluid completely via the cooler hoses as the car is idling or just so the drain and fill 3 times.
I don't just change my trany fluid, I have it flushed.
Costs @ $120 - 140 bucks but it works great.
They hook up a machine to the intake and the drain and you can see it go from dirty to clean in the process. Takes around 30 - 40 minutes.
I believe some years have a filter to change as well. Some don't.
There is no such thing as a “lifetime” fluid for anything let alone a transmission. Total marketing BS.
100% correct.
It is lifetime. Average lifetime of the first purchaser to keep the vehicle.
Except on the u760e transmission. If you change the fluid. You WILL get problems.
@@Bleachanna what models did that come in?
@@radzer0966 all fwd toyotas with the 4 cylinders from 2010-2017ish.
No guarantees with any brand. Some are worse than others (Honda.) You tried Ivan. Thanks!
I don't know about that. My neighbor bought a new RAM pickup. He got rid of it in less than a year because it was always at the dealer being repaired.
Vast majority of people don't change many of their fluids. I was guilty with the brake fluid until recently, but always drained and refilled the others usually well ahead of the recommend schedule. I have an entire rainbow of colors on my shelf for all of the specified coolants and auto trans fluid.
I have a ‘11 Highlander, FWD, with the 2.7 liter engine and the same U760E 6-speed transmission, that I’ve owned since new. Car now has 173K miles and continues to shift well. It has had regular pan drops and fluid/filter changes starting at 30K, 75K, 120 K, and 170K. I’ve had a well-regarded local transmission shop do the services because of the convoluted level check procedure. I’ve been using Amsoil Signature Low Viscosity ATF for the last 3 changes. I agree that the removal of the dipstick is a PIA, but I’ve had good service from the transmission itself. Obviously, others’ results may vary.
Amsoil Signature is awesome ATF, been using that in my 06 4x4 Tacoma, shifts nice and solid at 180K, same for my CRV.
I hear a lot of exhales in this video. I always hated having to troubleshoot lifetime transmissions we all know “lifetime” means for the “life” of the transmission. As a former Toyota tech we would run the diagnostics then just replace the transmission.
I only buy standards for this reason. Just imagine what a new transmission would cost.
Theres a bunch of these in the junkyard, no worries lol, maybe like 400-600 dollars for a used one
$3000 for a remanufactured transmission. A new one would probably be a lot more.
@@jameskoralewski1006 Wouldn’t trust remanufactured one, your just better off with a decent used one.
Wow. My 02 Camry has been nearly flawless. At least my 2017 fusion has a side plug on the transmission to know when the fluid is at the right level.
I bought a 2017 Camry LE with the U760E transmission in it as well. I change the fluid every 60K and never had an issue. It has 122K on it now. However, I had heard from many professional transmission shops the number one transmission falure is under filling the transmission. Second is transmission defects. Third is not changing the fluid at all. Fourth is leaving the transmission overfilled for way too long. They have told me how they change the fluid. They first loosen the fill plug. Second drain all the fluid out from the drain plug and over flow tube while on level ground or on a lift. Third they remove the transmission pan, gasket and filter. Clean the transmission pan and magnets. Install a new filter and gasket. Fill the transmission fluid with Aisin WS transmission fluid until it comes out of the over flow tube. Then install the drain plug finger tight. Add another quart of WS Aisin transmission fluid. Start engine cold and move gear selector through all the gears. Then remove the transmission drain plug and wait for the transmission fluid to trickle out. They have been doing this for years and never had a comeback with transmission issues.
I have seen far to many cases where neglected trans lead to stuck hydraulic valves. Add a bottle of Lucas transmission fix. This has resolved slipping and erratic shifting on several vehicles I have encountered over the years.
I have heard so many people have had great luck with that stuff.
Added reverse to my 78 th350 in a Chevy c10 after it went out
@@mikem5475 Did you put in new trans fluid also or just add a couple bottles of lucas to the existing fluid? I have a 77 th350 3/4 ton. Never had any problems. I changed fluid every 30K with a filter. I have heard bad things about the th450.
that lucas oil is helping to keep my 2003 Impala with the 4T65E trans going. I had a p1811 code (max adapt long-shift). Before it would delay the shifts, after swapping some fluid and adding the lucas trans fix it's improved. Right now it has some strange issue where it only acts up when the fluid is hot. The first 20mins of driving is not bad. Then it heats up and lacks power.
@@johnames6430 Have you installed a Transco shift kit? It killed my p1811 and took only about an hour. Several guys on youtube did videos on it. I have 230K on mine and it runs fine.
Change fluid every 60K miles.
Depends on the manufacturer. Honda will tell you to do it every 90K miles on some of their cars. Some people do it every 35K, but that's overkill
To be safe always change at 50K
@B T lol nah, that's would be overkill. the rate is like 5 to 1
New recommendation...change your Toyota every 60K.
@@disco.lemonade At our Honda dealership we recommend every 30k but for the 9 and 10 speed its 100k personally the 9 and 10 speed should be 50k
I'm very happy with my 2001 4-runner. It has 327,000 mi. and NO Tranx problems/ Out of caution, I had the Tranx Fluid flushed a couple days ago.
It's just a programming issue. There is a TSB for these transmissions that the dealer will install a modified torque converter and reprogram the computer and the issue is fixed. You just have to obtain the VIN number to check with your local Toyota dealer to see if the work has been performed before you buy one.
I would be curious if the fluid was ever changed on it in 125k miles. Personally 30-50k transmission fluid changes are ideal in my opinion.
Service history shows it was changed 2 years ago at 72K
@@kentwise1215 If that's the case, then I am wondering if the even used the right fluid. If you don't use the right fluid, you will have problems most likely, but that fluid was DARK. Plus, we also have to wonder if it was actually changed, or if the customer just got ripped off and they said they changed it, but really didn't. Even if it wasn't changed, it shouldn't be that dark.
Hey Ivan, good video! For what it’s worth, the refill procedure that you showed was for when the fluid temperature was hot.
There is a far easier procedure for when the fluid temperature was cold. That didn’t need any of those fancy tools.
Also, it’s not common for that’s transmissions to fail at that mileage. Actually, i don’t think I can remember seeing one fail myself.
For whatever any of that’s worth lol
Thanks for the inside info from a seasoned Toyota Tech, PJ! Glad to hear that these are mostly reliable. I was really surprised to see such a failure on a Toyota. Such problems were unheard of on the "old school" Toyotas from the 90s and 2000s...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics There's no doubt that the newer toyotas aren't as reliable as those old toyotas. But those old toyotas were such simple vehicles too. Overall, I think with CAFE ratings, theyre pushing everything to its limits. Heck, that fluid was BLACK lol. There is no way that toyota can call it lifetime fluid lol
I had a 2001 Camry XLE, bought new, and its transmission also started going bad - after 9 years and 110,00 miles. My mechanic then (he later moved to Florida to go fishing) said there was a transmission leak, he would have to replace a gasket which required hoisting out the engine and that might solve the problem. I was adding Lucas transmission seal fluid regularly. I traded the Camry in when I bought a new Mazda 6 on a rainy day. The transmission leak under the car was hidden by rainwater. The Mazda had a much better suspension than the Camry. That Camry had the worst tires of any car I have had, Bridgestone high performance V tires that wore out fast. Maybe the real reason Scotty Kilmer moved to Tennessee was to be far away from disgruntled customers who believed his line that Toyotas last forever and they bought Toyotas with over 100,000 miles on the odometer. And then, as you said, "Yikes!"
When did he move to Tennessee?
Here in Australia there’s a bulletin for 2012 to 2015 Toyota Camry’s transmission 2AR-FE torque converter
In side trans has plastic mulded piston got hard it doesn’t hold fluid pressure . There is three piston need to change
plastic, eh?
@@stevey500 yeah, many have used composite plastic accumulator pistons and worse for many years. and of course they're often failed
Yikes! The fluid looked the color of chocolate syrup! Well there goes my wanting to purchase a late model Toyota with automatic trans.
yeah that thing is cooked internally, a bit of lucas transmission fix and prayer 🙏then just run it till she dies.
Old Toyota transmissions are solid as, ive got a 99 landcruiser which is running perfectly. Dont know about all this new stuff but.
I have a 2000 avalon and has a little over a 100,000 miles on it and it runs and shifts perfectly. I need to change auto trans fluid because it's dirty, but she's going strong. This vehicle was rode hard and put away wet.
@@NM505ALB Got a 98 rav4. 220K on original Aisin 4 speed. 50/50 city highway.
If I recall.. They also can have a "drone" or a roaring like a wheel bearing. -I have had this happen.
I do wonder if a 50k mile fluid service will alleviate this issue, in hindsight
I agree with what you are saying . The auto manufacturers are making it harder to do diy maintenance . They are in the business to make money , not to make easier to last longer , I real like your videos , they help a lot , I was wondering to offer any training course ??
Cars are complex mechanisms that can fail at any time.
Even 50 years ago when they were simple they still failed.
Their simple old vacuums that need to be replaced with electric motors. Gasoline engines are unreliable and only dish out 20% of their potential power Due to friction, pumping loss and other issues.
Sealed for life - no fluid change required - works well eh? I’d call it ‘sealed for a short life’
they want these cars off the road and replaced by electric, that's why they aren't planned for long life.
@@johnames6430 electric is just part of the future. There will be Hydrogen fuel cells as well. Gasoline powered cars will not go away for decades.
My guess is that based on that complicated fluid change procedure, some shop changed the fluid and did it incorrectly and screwed it up by not getting the correct amount of fluid back in. Putting back in the same amount that came out may not be a good plan for you....
I have 2009 Lexus ES 350 & 2014 Camry, I change my fluid every year with oil change. It’s not hard, no special tools required. Both have same transmission.
2009 es made 100% Japan . Your good to go!