FOX Academy | Suspension Bracketing
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- Опубліковано 12 лют 2024
- Optimize your FOX suspension's performance with our detailed setup guide. In this Academy video, Jordi Cortes guides you through a suspension bracketing test, step by step. Learn how to fine-tune your fork or shock's high and low-speed compression and rebound settings for improved comfort, control, and speed, so you can conquer any terrain with confidence.
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Jordy got that dad vibe makin me feel like i'm getting in trouble... i can imagine him looking at my muddy bike and just shaking his head🤘😁🤘
Accurate!
Im really glad I have performance suspension on my bike, 3 adjustments (preasure, rebound, compresion) and thats it.
Always appreciate the reminders of doing one thing at a time, Jordi. Looks like Enchanted Trail Loop in Santa Cruz 😁👍
My favorite suspension testing spot at UCSC is Roller Coaster off of the Mushroom Trail. It’s short, varied in features, and easily repeatable!
This is filmed on Enchanted Loop at Wilder Ranch State Park, Santa Cruz, CA. Fun trail.
Thank you Jordi your explanation in suspension tuning makes things easier
We are always happy to help!
Very helpful. Wish I'd seen this when I first started on modern bikes ~6 years ago.
Thanks for that nice video!
Do you also adjust the other suspension unit along with the one you’re setting up? If you’re working on the damper increasing compression without increasing fork compression is going to unbalance the bike, which would muddy the water. Is what you’re noticing an effect of the rear damper adjustment or a side effect of it because the front - rear balance has changed?
Interested to hear your take on this.
good stuff. im here for it
Jordi explains suspension setup so easily
be really helpful to know what im actually feeling for :) low speed, high speed, rebound, i get we can bracket and go by what feels "good" but a bit more of a newbies guide for how these settings impact ride would be super helpful. maybe you have a video on this already? also we cool to hear thoughts on larger riders ( 105KG here ) and what they means to these settings..Cheers
See Dialed #15 and Dialed S4 Ep13
Thanks for posting.
Fox Factory Kashima 140 34mm Fork (2021 model) smooth fork action on trails but feels harsh on initial contact with tree roots, not sure if compression or rebound adjustment needed or is that feeling normal?
I will try the bracketing method as per this video to see if I can improve things.
Let us know how you make out!
What about the interaction between high speed and low speed adjusters? Due to the poppet design, changing highspeed will move the knee, thus changing the low speed setting at the same time.
Let's say I start with LSR on the rear shock as suggested. On a FloatX, would I bracket the LSR with LSC fully Closed or open or at the factory suggested setting? And is it best to do the shock before fork, or doesn't matter the order.
Make sure sag is balanced on both before you mess with tuning. Start at factory recommended settings on both the fork and the shock. I find at 180-190lbs, the float x works best with LSC between 5-8 out from closed. And rebound 5-6 out from closed.
Bracketing aka Trial&Error approach
Here is my question. Why is it that when I set sag properly, and adjust everything that my suspension still feels harsh? I consistently find that I have to reduce air pressure about 10-15 PSI less than Fox recommends which gives me more sag than I should have, in order to get my suspension to feel plush.for reference I’m 175 and generally run no tokens, no compression and 70-75 PSI. I have 2 Fox 38s and a Fox 36 and all 3 forks behave the same. Recommended PSI is like 93.
Is there a proper order? You mentioned LSR, HSR,LSC, HSC but wasn't sure if that was a recommendation or just listing things.
Usually you go sag, rebound, compression.
What's your take on putting more tokens than you need? say 3/4 and lowering the overall pressure to make fork very plush at the start?
I've done that and as far as it seemed excellent when I was going slow with occasional jumps, it was packing up when I started riding faster on rocks and roots. So it depends on what is your riding style and what trails do you ride.
Does this apply to volume spacers also? I.e. When we add a volume spacer, aim to have the same sag as before, do a run, then proceed to rebound and compression bracketing.
Volume spacers really only effect the end of travel, i.e., for bottom-outs. I only add or remove spacers after some time spent riding, taking note of the o-ring position after a downhill run. If you're bottoming the suspension out and you like the way it already feels, adding a spacer can help with that end-stroke support. Vice versa if you're not bottoming the suspension out and you like the way it already feels, removing a spacer can help you achieve full travel. In summary, I think volume spacers are the last consideration to make when tuning suspension.
Perfectly said
@@bensbikes And that's the most critical part of tuning for safety. With increased "resistance" you're experiencing higher force coming back deeper into the travel. If you don't change your rebound, you'll get bucked when you bottom out. This is especially important because if you are aiming to bottom out less, these critical moments don't happen often, leading to less data points for you to be aware of the increased rebound speed at full travel.
Volume spacers change the whole spring curve. This is why you need less psi to achieve the same sag. The ramp up introduced by the spacer increases the resistance force at the end of the travel significantly which can catch a rider by surprise.
My problem is... that type of trail I want to be riding is; all of them. And I can't be bothered to adjust for different types of riding. Except for huge jumps, I'll just go stiffer and that's great.
Nicely done! Find a system that works and stick with it.
Low speed, compression or rebound, what would that affect? Like is it going to slow through roots or rocks or going fast through them. I need clarification with this
The ‘speed’ refers to shaft speed, ie how fast the fork or damper moves through its travel, so not necessarily how fast you’re going.
Going 15 km/h into a curb is a high speed event, while landing a big jump going 30 km/h is a low speed event.
@@Bonky-wonky Your first sentence is correct but the last part of the second one isn't. Landing a jump results in fast suspension movement which affects the high speed circuits in your suspension. Going around turns and braking are good examples of slow suspension speeds.
@@eliasrenner555 depends on the jump, a long smooth landing that matches the angle of your trajectory in the air is in my experience a low speed event. I should have made this more clear.
@@Bonky-wonky True, but I'd say landing a perfectly shaped jump perfectly is rarer than cornering and braking.
@@Bonky-wonky thanks, i think i kind of get it, if im smashing through a rock garden then that would affect the high speed but if im going through a berm it would affect the low speed, because as you go through the berm the suspension compresses under load but not as violent as smashing through rocks, right?
I feel like im not sensitive enough to the differences of the adjustments. Maybe i just dont ride enough to feel the subtle changes and differences.
4 settings and doing maybe 4 runs for every setting, that's 16 runs! Wouldn't like to do that without a lift or on an E-Bike
I wish your dials would all start at the number 0 and the final click being the final number what ever that may be on any given dial. I say this because I'm a bit pissed off right now because of the rebound dial on my Float X 2022 model. The first written number is 2 and the last written number is 12. Here's where things get weird. There is one defined click before the number 2 and there are 2 defined clicks after the number 12. According to your specs of available clicks(10 clicks total), it must mean that the click before number 2 and also the 2 clicks after number 12 have to be ignored. How the hell should anyone just know that and why are there 3 whole defined clicks extra? They feel exactly like all the other clicks, so no extra force applied or anything.
This dial should start at the number 0 and end at the number 10, and the 3 extra clicks be removed.
Then you got the compression dial on the same shock which for some reason have no defined clicks, so in this dial you'll have to just go by the written numbers on the dial. At least here it starts at the number 0 so it actually makes sense.
Please make the dials the same and remove any extra clicks. If you have to ignore them they shouldn't be there in the first place. It's like adding a door outside the door on a car just because you feel like it.
Anyhow, start the dials at 0 to remove any doubt and that it works the same whether it is rebound or compression. A dial is a dial. Keep it simple.
Bracketed my wallet and bank accounts. Prefer the most I had.
AI Jordi isn’t as good as the real deal.
This is IRL Jordi! But wow, AI Jordi.. That's an idea!