would be cool to hear about spring rate selection for weight and various types of riding / if there any misconceptions when choosing the right set up etc.
There are plenty of charts available. Racetech has a handy calculator, but it’s not always accurate. It’s important to develop a relationship with a tuner that gets you good results. This is an ongoing process. Most tuners agree on spring rates within a rate or so. General rules are fast guys may want to consider one rate stiffer. Softer springs give you a slightly lower centre of gravity, but are dangerous on jumps or whoops. Stiffer fork springs help keep the front end up in the stroke for better cornering. Stiffer springs & lighter valving feels plush. Softer springs & stiffer valving feels harsh. Maybe I will make a video on it.
One more question: “for this rider I want 120mm”. What rule of thumb do you use to set the air gap? For myself (wp open cartridge) I tried 100mm, it was terrible, now 110mm, much better, wondering if I should increase it even more.
I’ve just set thousands of oil heights and I know that at 120 the fork will feel plush deep into the stroke. I don’t need bottoming resistance for this rider.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech thank you. On a recent challenging but not too extreme ride I noticed my forks were still a few cm away from bottoming, so perhaps I’ll try 115mm next.
Can I simply add a pre-load adjuster to my forks (2020 KTM 300 XCW TPI) that didn't come with them? I carry a chainsaw on my forks sometimes and it seems like having the preload adjuster would be helpful.
Thanks for this! May I ask, if the new spring is the same length as the old spring, why did you run into trouble with the preload? Wouldnt springs would compress the same 11mm?
I could have gotten away with just swapping them, but I would have had 8.5mm preload. I would rather be on the light side and give him more adjustment.
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Great tutorial👏
would be cool to hear about spring rate selection for weight and various types of riding / if there any misconceptions when choosing the right set up etc.
There are plenty of charts available. Racetech has a handy calculator, but it’s not always accurate. It’s important to develop a relationship with a tuner that gets you good results. This is an ongoing process. Most tuners agree on spring rates within a rate or so. General rules are fast guys may want to consider one rate stiffer. Softer springs give you a slightly lower centre of gravity, but are dangerous on jumps or whoops. Stiffer fork springs help keep the front end up in the stroke for better cornering. Stiffer springs & lighter valving feels plush. Softer springs & stiffer valving feels harsh. Maybe I will make a video on it.
One more question: “for this rider I want 120mm”. What rule of thumb do you use to set the air gap? For myself (wp open cartridge) I tried 100mm, it was terrible, now 110mm, much better, wondering if I should increase it even more.
I’ve just set thousands of oil heights and I know that at 120 the fork will feel plush deep into the stroke. I don’t need bottoming resistance for this rider.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech thank you. On a recent challenging but not too extreme ride I noticed my forks were still a few cm away from bottoming, so perhaps I’ll try 115mm next.
Can I simply add a pre-load adjuster to my forks (2020 KTM 300 XCW TPI) that didn't come with them? I carry a chainsaw on my forks sometimes and it seems like having the preload adjuster would be helpful.
I doubt it would help much because changing the preload doesn’t affect the spring rate, only the ride height. You would have to replace the whole cap.
Can you run the springs without any spacers? If I remove the 2.5mm spacer in there now and put my pre-load to the 0 setting, I will have 6.5mm.
That won’t hurt anything.
sweet bike! :)
Thanks Chuck ! Hard to tell from the vid , about how much can the preload adjuster change the preload , in mm ?
The mm increments are printed on the top. There are detents as well, so they stay.
Thanks for this! May I ask, if the new spring is the same length as the old spring, why did you run into trouble with the preload? Wouldnt springs would compress the same 11mm?
I could have gotten away with just swapping them, but I would have had 8.5mm preload. I would rather be on the light side and give him more adjustment.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech so, you’re saying that the preload was excessive even with the original spring and you rectified that
+1 , I too don't understand if the spring was the same length whys there's a diff in preload height ?
Nice