How-to Change Fork Springs in WP Xplor Forks
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- This video is about How-to Change Fork Springs in WP Xplor Forks
Fork Springs -
slavensracing....
Shock Springs -
slavensracing....
Parts & Accessories -
slavensracing....
Suspension Tools -
slavensracing....
Torque-a-holics.....hahahaha great vid! thanks for being there for the community
Great tip on holding the spring guide and screwing the spring down!
Great video. I love how you kinda show what can go wrong, and what can be a pain during the process.
love the trick with the long nose pliers!!!saves a lot of time and temper tantrums!!
wish I knew this last year, woulda saved a lot of 4 letter words
Great video. Only one I found pointing out the difference in the spindles resistance on reassembly.
Thank you.
Just got mt rear spring in purchased from you waiting on back order front springs will definitely need this video to do it thanks for making it 👍
Quick tip for someone that was in my shoes, no vice with soft jaws, and unable to get the fork cap wrench on the cap with them mounted in the clamps due to interference with the handlebar mounts in the furthest away mounting location.
All I did was remove the fork, grasp it firmly, and then tape my hand to the fork. Easy as that, the fork cap came right off and the fork didn't spin in my hand.
Haha I just fought that spindle failing down for like 30 minutes...I should have watched this video first. That needle nose plier trick is genius
Bicycle wrenches to the rescue!
They're very thin and work great for this job.
Right on Jeff that is really slick!!
Bought my spring set from you because you were generous enough to provide videos of how to do it. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Thanks Jeff gr8 vid as always 🤘
fork tube doesn't like to be put in a vice :)
Should we action the fork to purge air from the calving before resetting the damping settings? Or doesn’t it matter?
The needle nose pliers holding onto the flute just saved my project. Great tip. Thanks Jeff!
Glad it helped!
Torque-A-holics!! LMAO!! They just lost their shit!!
i have a quick question. i had a 2022 te 300 husky with fork and shock spring for my weight. can i use those same springs on the 2024 model
The shock spring is 10mm shorter on the 2024 models. The fork springs are the same length, but the rates have changed. Give us a call at 719-475-2624 and we can help you confirm/work through this.
Hi would you know if these forks fit in a husqvarna FC 2018 if so would I need to do anything to them many thanks
On a te300 if I swap from stock (4.2) to 4.6, do I need to revalve it?
No.
hello, great video. I got my forks back on and the clickers are free spinning now and not bottoming out. Is my cap not seated properly? I did change oil too. Thanks - 2023 500 EXC-F
Excellent video, I've got a 2020 te300i, these are the same forks yeah?
Hello: Same forks but yours require an additional wrench because your bike has different fork caps with preload adjusters. Here is what you need >>>> slavensracing.com/shop/preload-cap-wrench-for-wp-xplor-forks/
Bought fork and suspension springs for my '23 901 Norden Expedition with Explor shocks. Heaviest fork springs were only sticky on one side with the spring guide and a little filing on the spring end where it's cut and curls inward a little did the trick. Super easy install with Husqvarna repair manual. Highly recommend getting springs from Slavens.
Simple genius @ 5:45 using a needle nose to hold the spindle while spinning the spring. 🙂
Hey Jeff. I bought a used 17 250 xcw and it had 473 mm springs with a nylon space in side the fork. Can I add nylon spacers under the fork cap to make up the 3mm I need for proper preload. Basically are the springs supposed to be buffered by nylon spacers to avoid metal to metal contact of spring to cap? Thanks so much love your vids.
anyone have experience with the compression adjuster not bottoming out. Tried to check my base settings after buying the bike and it will turn clockwise infinitely. The clicks feel good but it never stops. Would that be an issue with the cap itself, or that it wasn't threaded onto the spindle all the way.
Levi:
The cap was not properly installed and is not on all the way. Since you continuously turned the adjuster, one of the adjuster pieces has probably fallen into the cap above the threaded area and will need to be re-installed.
Do you think thats the first time jeff has changed fork springs. He seemed nervous.
Seth Jeffreys
Yes. My first rodeo. Not.
Just rushing to get it done and go riding.
also it is quite hard to make a video that is going to make sense to a beginner,things that may seem simple to someone with experience need to be explained to some one who has little knowledge.
thats why i like jeffs videos,he is constantly thinking about how best to describe what he is doing in terms that someone with little experience can get,and all the little tricks and tips are gold,i love these videos!!
fantastic tips thanks!
Question for you. On my Xplor 2023 fe450 shocks. I have the "Pre-load" adjuster ontop in cap. I just have the 50mm motion-pro wrench. (I dont have the $socket for preload to unscrew) both clickers Counter-Clockwise all the way and leave Pre- Load on Zero. That works for you to get to the springs and install the 5.0's I purchase from you.😉. Merry Christmas to the company and family.🎄🇺🇸
Give us a call if you need help.
Happy New Year!
Thanks Jeff
You're welcome.
I do have the thin “tappet” wrench.
What if the compression clicker just keeps turning after you re-install everything?
If the fork cap clicker rotates but does not have an end point, it's because the cap is not threaded all the way onto the cap. Depending on the year of your forks, the adjuster may have fallen out of the cap.
That was a great video! Easy peezee! Little feeling on tighting. No problem. This will be on the 2023 FE 450 HUSKAVARNA bike with the Explorer forks. Thanks again!🤙👌👍✌
Glad it helped!
Awesome hairstyle Mr.Slavens
At the 6:22 mark he switched from holding the spring guide by hand to using a wrench. Should the resistance required to spin on the fork cap be significant enough to require a tool? I just held the spring guide with my thumb like he was doing before and kept turning the cap, I didn't feel like there was a lot of resistance. Just want to make sure I didn't do something wrong..
You probably didn't do anything wrong.
These forks are a BIG shit
So no bleeding needed, that's nice! Can you do it in place on the bike? If removed handlebars?
Yes, but that is the hard way.
Hello, the left fork side, compression side, wen push on it you feel just the spring no oil resistance?
That is correct. The rebound is in the other side.
I upgraded to heavier fork springs from Slavens. I found that the ends of the coil, where the flat fitting is formed with the weld, the inside diameter of the coil was reduced because the weld/flange encroached on the inside diameter. On the WP Xplor 48, the top cap has a metal fitting that must slide easily into the coil about 3/4 of an inch. I took a drum grinder bit (home depot, $4) and worked the inside of each end of the coil opening to bring it into i.d. spec. When I did that, not only did the top fitting properly slide inside the coil, but also there was also less need to file down the plastic flutes of the spring guides. This was true for both fork springs that I purchased to beef up the forks for my 230lb rider weight. my only worry at this point is the bare metal exposure on the spring left from the grinding and any oxidation that may occur over time.
Bruce, Thanks for your support! Higher spring rates often require a slight mod due to the larger wire diameter. Glad you worked it out. You mentioned a weld but there are no welds. Oxidation/rust/corrosion is not an issue because they are in oil. Get out for some throttle therapy and let er rip!
Thanks for the tip on the sticky caps towards the end! One was like your and other spun right off by hand
You're welcome!
Dude! Thank you.
Thank you Jeff
Thanks for the needle nose tip!😅
You’re welcome 😊
Thank You! Great short to the point. Nice job.
You're welcome!
Jeff, Thank you for the video. I have the 17 KTM 300 six days and it has the adjustable preload lever on the fork cap which seems to be a pain in every way from finding a quick bleed button to taking the cap off for service. Can you sometime in the future do a video on dealing w/ that cap when servicing the fork. And is it possible to remove that preload lever or swap the fork cap for a non-six days that has the simple fork cap. Thank you in advance. One of the many reason I buy from Slavens racing is because of these videos. You staff has also always been top rate w/ me on the phone.
stevebaum
I’m on a ride in Utah
If I forget, remind me
Hi Jeff, not sure which is the best way to remind you about my adjustable preload lever question, so I’m trying this 1st.
@@stevebaum
Steve, Unfortunately the adjustable caps are mostly marketing BS. 99% of the time fork spring preload is a set it and forget it. The standard caps are interchangeable.
I have a long list of videos in the queue and adjustable fork caps are a low priority and I don't have a bike with those caps. Glad to help when I can but I have bigger fish to fry.
Ride more, work less. JS
This work well...I switched the springs on my 21 500 exc....now they are noisy, I can hear the springs...did I miss something?
Sam:
Sometimes that happens but it usually goes away in a few miles.
@@slaverace1 it is the compression side, I opened it back up to be sure I didn't miss anything......I assumed it will go away.
@@fosternotavailable dude, how did it go? I've got the same strange noise from rebound leg when I compress it, it's like the spring rubbing the inside of the tube, but I'm not sure. In addition, the noise only appears when Rebound adjuster somewhere in the middle position, when it's in far right or far left - there is no noise. Left leg works as expected. Did you resolve your issue?
Is it worth replacing the forks / shock springs for heavier ones ? I'm only 5 or ten pounds over what it's sprung for . Does it improve your ride that much ?
Sachs forks ( Beta) guts look the same.