1996-2007 Chevrolet GMC P0336 crankshaft sensor testing, and diagnosis
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Vehicle had an intermittent no start, hard start, extended crank issue. It also had an intermittent p0300 misfire code, cruising down the freeway once in a while. I could not figure it out, and it has not returned since replacing this sensor. How to diagnose a CKP, or crankshaft position sensor code on a 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L SBC (small block chevy) v-8, BBC (big block chevy) v-8, and 90 degree 4.3L v-6. Chevy Tahoe GMC Yukon Suburban Escalade Astro Blazer C1500 C2500 C3500 Express 1500 2500 3500 Van K1500 K2500 K3500 P30 S10 Silverado Classic S15 Sonoma Safari Savana Sierra Isuzu NP-R Oldsmobile Olds Bravada all have the same sensor in the same place. ckp 4.3 5.0 5.7 7.4 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07
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Thoroughly satisfying listening to a professional, well done my friend.
Thanks!!!!... the thing left me stranded, and had me puzzled.
When you do a continuity test even if the wire is partially broken and it'll show good continuity you should always wiggle The wire as you do the continuity test good video great channel
Good deal! Good information and I am going to try that. I have a crank but won't start that when I change the crankshaft sensors was working and then nothing. I replaced it with a cheaper sensor not the OEM from Rockauto but didn't thought about spacing. It is worth a try. Thanks.
I have a 1997 express van 5.7 L that was getting hard to start after moving to a new place. Did some research and found the crank position sensor covered in oil. Pulled it out, used brake cleaner to clean everything and replaced it. Also noticed before I did the work that parking uphill on the road was allowing cold air to change the settings?? Anyway that was 15 plus years ago. Still starts on one revelation now.
This is one of the very best videos i've seen. Good job man!
GOD BLESS YOU AND THANK YOU
I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM IN MY GMC YUKON 99 DON'T START.
Great video, shows good diags. Power Probe is such a great tool. I am glad that I have one too, it comes it REALLY handy! At least that sensor was easy to get at. I imagine that some cars might be harder to work on. OKAY BYE!
Oh, btw, looks like you're picking up some more subs! NICE WORK BUD!
@Zayd Quinton You guys are such fucking scumbags.
awesome job and great diagnostics
Always interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome. Thanks again for watching!
Excellent video thank you. That helped a lot.
My 97 Silverado is doing this intermittently. It just loses spark all of the sudden mostly at idle. I put a new icm and new rotor button and cap on it and it did fine now it just randomly dies. I hate throwing parts at something but it's got me stumped. May check my CPS tomorrow. My distributor pick up looked a little rusty my change it and spark plugs and wires too. But it's not throwing codes for anything according to oriellys scan tool. I'm just ready to figure it out.
I have had a #3 misfire, and strange runnability problems for half a year. No codes, and couldn't figure it out, until it finally wouldn't start, and made a CKP code. That's when I used graphing meter. It was pulling a very weak signal, and not starting, until I jumped it, and then it magically did, and kept working. There is no value for what the computer sees as a usable signal. The new one definitely worked better, and it has been running great, with no misfires ever since. Thanks for watching!
Awesome Video! "Okay BYEEE" 😆
Your video helped me out 8mos ago. I used the blue ticky tack stuff(like we stole from our teachers posters to throw at our friends) to measure the distance between reluctor and CKP sensor. Worked great.
8mos later and i have no power or ground to sensor....any ideas?
I may be late to the party, but was curious if you could do a walk through over the phone? I've done everything in your video, but still getting crank, no start & pulling code p0336. 98 Chevrolet c1500.
where does that other wire too, the one next to the crank sensor
I don't know.
My sensor got a gnarly chunk taken out of it and was causing the motor to be intermittently uneven and stall. I'm wondering what took that chunk out of my sensor out, Debris? Gonna check in a week to see if my new one has any damage.
There shouldn't be any chunks taken out of it.
@@WorkshopCompanion What's air gap?
Hello R.B.A...does a 95 gmc Serria 1500 extended cab(5.7) a have a CRANCKSHAFT SENSOR?.. my truck randomly dies without no warning no lights flashing on the dash.. it sounds like it's running out of fuel, change fuel pump- fuel filter-throttle position sensor.. so I'm just basically playing the elimination game, can you help me please..Thanx
Get under there and look. Might be a good idea to put a .100" gap on a spark plug, attach it to your coil tower wire, and see if it sparks when this happens. Sounds like a coil ,module, sensor, ignition type problem.
Hi, Thanks for the video. I'm about to do this job, as a friend's scanner says that both Cam and Crank sensors are off. Replaced Cam sensor 1st. I'm curious as to what you were doing at 9:20, with the sealing putty. Did you apply it, install it, give it a revolution, then recheck it? I just bought a NAPA sensor, to the tune of $70. No shims included. Chagrined to see other places sell them for $25. Dealer price was something like $150. Friend with scanner (snap-on), works for NAPA, so feeling iffy about returning it, unopened. Jimmy was running fine, till on a start up - total crap, misfiring, like crazy. Replace cam sensor, but made a mistake, having the old one loose, cranked engine in small clicks, to get dist. plate slot in position to pull sensor. Sensor jumped, and got pinched by that pressed metal plate, which the rotor sits on. Upon install of new sensor, no firing at all, except weak coughing after lengthy cranking, like only 1 cyl was firing! Wondering if I damaged distributor, perhaps shifting that metal plate a bit. Thoughts appreciated. Thanks.
Question, how do you know which yeller wire to prick so you can test continuity? I’m having a issue with my 98 Xpress van and after changing the crankshaft sensor with a new AC Delco, my issues returned two days later. Still getting a P0339. I look at the same wiring harness going into the ECM and there are multiple yellow wires. How do you know which one is which? Thanks in advance
A wiring diagram will give you the proper pinout of the ecm if you have any confusion.
The new part should come with a cpl new shims and a lot of people don’t use them even though GM recommends shimming it, the way it’s hitting you should definitely shim it or you’ll be replacing it again.
Whatchumean by "hitting"? The graphing meter looks good, and it is still working. This is my winter beater.
@@RustBeltAuto not hitting the reluctor wheel, as long as there’s a gap your good
The problem starts whe thrust bearing gets worn a little it let's the crank move a little check on all teeth you'll get different gaps
Is a relearn necessary when replacing this sensor? I can't afford that type of scan tool.
You are supposed to.
I have a 02 Astro that won't start (sometimes sputters or backfires) when it has been raining or high humidity... did the whole distributor, coil, cables, plugs, and fuel filter... next will be the fuel injection "spider". I have read in a couple forums that it could possibly be the camshaft position sensor. Do these sensors ever behave badly due to moisture?
Sorry... also not getting any codes
@@motorteeth usually connector related failures cause problems when wet. I would graph that cmp sensor too. sometimes they get goofy, and don't make codes. You may have a sensor that is cracked.
The distributor cap is cracked I rebuilt whole fuel system it was a cracked cap
I believe those shims are 5 thousands each, not 5 mm. 5mm is like 3/16 of an inch. But, still nice informative video.
Yes. I meant .5mm I do believe, so roughly .020"
Im broke down on side of road. I have a scan tool and getting this code. Can i just disconnect the plug to bypass it until i can change it?
You need a crank signal for ignition to work.
I have a 1998 k1500 and I have a ecu flash to it but I be getting p1336 code
So if there’s no power from the signal wire and the wire passes the continuity test and ground is good,then the ECU needs to be replaced? I have no spark and no signal to fuel pump.
I don't know. Sounds confusing.
Great video love the fact you get to every step fast. Subscribed.
Was wondering if you had any leads on what my issue could be. I have a 96 Chevy express van with a five point liter engine and in December 2020 I left the country for about one year and two months the van ran before I left. I came back this year in February and change the oil and charge the battery and when I went to crank it the engine cranks but there is no spark and the fuel pump was not originally priming. I decided to take out the ECM B fuse, And when I plugged it back in the fuel pump started cycling along with the check engine light on the dash. I changed or rather switched relays around but it still did the same cycling on and off. I have no spark I changed the coil and the ignition control module and still have no spark. My last resort would be changing the crankshaft position sensor I looked at it and it’s very oily could that cause my issue of fuel pump going on and off by itself when key ignition is on? initially after I change the oil and went to start it I had no priming of the fuel pump whatsoever, it started happening when I disconnected and reconnected the fuse for the ECM B.
Sounds like you need a car doctor.
@@RustBeltAuto yes, you… i am thinking its an ECM bad connection issue. If i leave the ignition on, fuel pump primes but the after a few seconds it just starts randomly priming 🤕
thanks for the video, what brand and model power probe are you utilizing?
🌻
Just an old power probe 3.
Can you access the crank sensor from the top side by pulling the motor mount and rotating the engine forward?
Did you watch the video?
Yes I did so it can be accessed topside?
@@scottbender8123 You could try. I guess I'm not understanding the whole pulling the motor mount, and turning the engine idea.
Taking out the front 2 bolts with a Jack underneath and rotating the engine towards the radiator to reach the crank sensor..
Sorry it's a 98 cavalier 2.2 4cyl looking to change the crank sensor hoping I could pull the motor mount bolts and rotate the engine towards the radiator to access the back and change it ..thank you for all the info
I have a 97 GMC Sierra 4x4 1500. I just change the flexplate but now it won't start. Also my crankshaft is very hard to turn. Help or opinions please.
Is it backwards?
It’s supposed to be 10mm gap.
I have a 99 gmc yukon 5.7 votec, the crank shaft sensor came on. It was replaced along with the harness do to the showing of bare wire. Still doesnt start, so then I replaced ignition modules ignition coil distributor cap and rotor and still no start. Now looking at your video I did not know we had to recalibrate like you did. Would that be the issue, is to turn it like you did? Thx, been broke down for 2 months now 😆
Do calibrate. When no spark, It is important to make sure it is getting a CKP signal. CKP, and ignition module testing is where a graphing meter is your friend.
Looks like I need to start by using a multimeter to check to see if the wires are okay, and then I should definitely turn the crank shaft to check the reluctor wheels. And then I should try to get a power probe style tool so that I can look at the wave signal. Would an oscillometer work for that?
oscilloscope*
@@robertwilsoniii2048 after watching this video, I'm sure most people would just toss a sensor in it. Saves the hassle of diagnosis most of the time. When this sensor didn't run the truck, the graphing meter still picked up a signal. It was just too weak. That threw me a curve a little.
I don't understand why you disconnected the connector at the ecm when you could check voltage right at the connector at the CPS
Okay.
You mentioned a relearn what is that? My 97 GMC Sierra k1500 is throwing two codes for crankshaft post. Sensor p1325a and p1325b. Was gonna take her to someone but after watching your video I’m gonna give her a go. She’s running but has a bad hiccup, almost like she’s gonna run outta fuel, she gets up and goes but at the stop light she idles rough in gear or in P N.
ANY HELP IS MUCH OBLIGED THANKS FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS BYW
The sensor needs to be calibrated with capable scan tool.
My 99 tahoe has fuel and spark and compression but just sits there and cranks. I’m between the spider injector and crank or cam sensor. What would you say I should do? I don’t want to just throw parts at it
Calibrate crankshaft sensor. If it is getting fuel, air, and spark, something is out of time.
I have a 1999 GMC Yukon 5.7 i have no spark at the coil or the plugs i replaced the crank sensor, coil and module and still no spark cranks good but doesn't start any help would be good.
Tough call. I would need to see it to figure that out. Maybe find a no spark diagnostic flow chart for it? Good luck.
Probably Cam sensor under the dizzy cap n rotor, also had a intermediate power failure to coil from coil power wire hard to catch
I have the same problem right now. No spark. I replaced the coil and still no spark. Any idea? Or did you get yours started
@@davidvelasco3374 it turned out my computer was un plugged just a little on the drivers side fender well under the hood
@@jeremya3754 thank you. Ya I figured my problem out. It was my camshaft sensor and
Would the sensor be in same place for a 97 GMC Sierra?
Should be the same.
Or near starter. Search "97 GMC Sierra crank shaft sensor location" on Google then press image right under where u typed in what your searching for. It should show u a bunch of diagrams.
yes
The wiring that is attached to to the crank sensor bracket, where does that go? It's a red connector with a brown and yellow wire it's unplugged on my 98 z71 and I can't find where it plugs in to.
I don't know. Are you sure it's not a dummy extra plug for something you do not have? I think red is usually EVAP or something.
@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated !!!!!
Did you ever figure it out? I have the same plug just hanging there
@@alexthompson4853 yea. It goes to a sensor on the power steering pump. Mines did not have the sensor however. Don't know why.
Thanks
Your welcome. Glad I could help.
great vedeo mate I think I need replaced a crankshaft on my 6.5D because some times the engine lose power and I need stopped the engine and start again!!😏 I replaced a diesel pump cost me a 1600$ and still have the same problems!! I need only replaced that crap sensor! maybe after running good 😏 will see!! cheers from Norway
Sounds wrong. You should really talk to a diesel mechanic about that. Personally, I try to stay away from them like the plague.
@@RustBeltAuto here in Norway not exist professional mechanic's!!! only guys replaced part's!!! and extremely expensive!! on my suburban I replaced a diesel pump, PMD, all 8injector's, new fuel lines 👌 and still the same like before I replaced all this part's!!😏 so only i don't replaced that sensor!! so if I replaced a this sensor after still on same conditions probably is a damm ECM!!😏 my plans is a removed a electronic diesel pump and put a mechanic diesel pump and the problems gone forever 👌 fucking electronics sensors
@Jorge Kazachek having the same issues, just got through replacing the pump, and the pmd box still same issues as b4. did it work after you replace the sensor
Have a 2000 gmc 2500 5.7 motor revs up and just shuts down would that be crankshaft sensor already replaced fuel pump and filter.
Fun problem. I would check to see if it looses fuel pressure. After that, I would make sure the 5v reference voltage goes to your sensors. Inspect under hood fuse box, wires, and fuses. Tcb fuse, and power check would be a good place to start. Other than that, lotsa luck. Check for codes. Current, and pending. Sounds like a pain.
I have a 96 Gmc no fire going to the coils nor to the fuel pump just bought a computer check fuse box everything is hot when the switch is on
What do the other two wires that continue past sensor connect to??????
The knock sensor, I think.
@@RustBeltAuto no, these wires run under the harmonic balancer and up the drivers side
@@RustBeltAuto@ 6:05 you can see the wire protector running past the cps you literally pull on it unplugging the cps sensor
I’m losing my mind trying to figure out where it goes 😂
@@87atxskater I will guess, and say oil pressure.
Thanks for all you do and teach, so what if it’s a Ford Fusion 2013, do you have to calibrate it first before putting the crank sensor in?
after
Ok so i have a 99 suburban I just recently bought. I replaced the ignition coil ( I believe, it was under the intake tubes on top of the motor) and I wasn't getting spark. I looked up the issue and it said it could be the crankshaft sensor. Ilso I looked underneath to find that the crankshaft sensor had the wires hot glued in. I replaced all of that nonsense, and it still won't start. I was wondering what the wiring would be as well as how to calibrate it
The only way to calibrate it is with a capable scan tool. The only way to test it is with a graphing meter. If it had a crankshaft sensor code, you are probably in the right direction. If not, could be other things.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks
Had a few cam sensors go out on the gm vortecs it's under the dizzy cap n rotor, disconnect batt pull hood off(not needed but helps) pull out distributor replace part then get #1 top dead center (tdc) on compression stroke then put the dizzy back in line up rotor towards #1 put spark plug back in n fire it up
I change my timing chain and gears properly now my truck has zero spark. Does my position sensor need to line up with something on the crank or should it just work? In the meantime I'm going to order a new sensor anyway.
You need to calibrate your crankshaft sensor. Anyone with a quality scan tool has programming to do it.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the reply so quickly. All the videos and searches say to start the truck. Mine doesn't even have spark from the coil. I never messed with the distributor only replaced the gears and lined them up properly. All ignition and fuel parts are all new within a year even the spider injectors. I'm about to roll it in the woods and let nature have it lol
@@pauljb1979 your ignition coil will not fire if the cop sensor needs to be calibrated, or is not working. Thanks for watching!
@@RustBeltAuto cop sensor? Im confused. Crank position sensor ?
@@MrSabinashouston CKP, or cankshaft position sensor.
What does the wire coming of the harness to the left go into?
I think its a knock sensor?
@@RustBeltAuto the reason I ask mine is not plugged into anything will that affect how the truck runs?
how many miles are on that?
Around 220ish
For the love of fuck, save yourself the trouble I went through and take off the o-ring on the old crankshaft sensor and put it on the new sensor. I spent forever trying to smash the new sensor in the hole before I realized the o-ring on it was fucking huge.
Lick it before you stick it lol
January 2023 CKP didn't come with lube
August 2023 it did. Worked amazingly better than the silicone lube I used. Couldn't believe it.
How do you calibrated the sensor
I used an Autel maxidas. Bi-directional scan tool with limited programming capabilities.
Any video or tip on how to do a re-learn you mentioned?
You need to find a scan tool that can do it.
Rev it
Nice Autel.
I think you are referring to that Snap-On Vantage pro graphing meter?
Rust Belt Auto
You showed a DS708 in the video
@@sirsweetness8332 right. That old thing is due for retirement. It lost some programming, and it is real slow now. An update is crazy amounts of money. I got that thing in 2012 I think.
What is the sensor after the crank sensor
I don't understand the question?
@@RustBeltAuto on my truck after the plug for the crank positioning sensor there is another wire with a plug just hanging down with what looks like a broken sensor do u have any ideal what it could be
@@billyhunt1095 if it's one wire, and grey, it is probably a knock sensor. Just a guess.
How do u recalibrate the crankshaft sensor?
Dedicated scan tool.
How do you do a re-learn
Dedicated scan tool.
For what it's worth, you can't do a crank/cam relearn with a scan tool, on a k1500 anyway, until 1998. I only know because I have a 97 lol.
There is a manual way to relearn them that I found and it stopped throwing the code after I did it.
I googled it to find it. Had to drive at 55 for 2mins, then slow down to 40 for 30secs w/o using the brakes etc etc. Good luck finding a road to do it on unless ya live in farm country like I do.
Is there a way to install the distributor without using a scan tool? I had a 7.4L, 99 Suburban that installing the distributor at TDC of number 1 spark plug doesn't work because it won't start? The rotor needs to be retarded 2 teeth after checking the CMP retard PID on a scan tool.
If it doesnt start, you probably have something else going on. Check fuel, check spark, check air.
@@RustBeltAuto it ran fine before the distributor was taken out.
@@meblake7359 it must be something you did.
5 tho you need minimum 30 tho ,,,,, thats .75 of a mm
Okay thanks. Been driving on it for over a year like this. If there is a problem, I will post it, but for now, if it ain't broke, I'm not fixing it. Thanks for watching!
Hi
Yo!