About 8 years ago now, 2001 Toyota Solara, no start sensor code. on a used motor I'd installed, took it for granted dude said he recently replaced the timing belt and gears until I pulled it apart and looked at the teeth on the crankshaft pulley for the t-belt, which required removing timing belt. Sure enough, tooth on the back lip of the gear was missing a tab, like the ones oh this balancer you have but the gear is only 3" diameter. Ran to a salvage yard, found a 3.0 that was tore down that far and paid like $5. At the time new was $50 for just a gear. put it back together, started perfect. so this mans advise is good to remember.
That may test it to some extent but what if your having an intermittent problem ? Hard starting , no start then hour later starts right up ? Changed crank sensor and no problems since a year later . So im just saying that may diagnose a dead sensor but not one with intermittent internal problems
My dads 94 Volvo 850 was doing the same thing and finally quit and he’s tried new plugs and wires , fuel pump and so on, I know I’m basing this off your experience but u feel it would help to try and fix it for him, it’s been down for 2 years now
I've had this for a few weeks. I bought a 10 quid non contact voltage pen. Next time it didn't start, I whipped it out of the glove box put it on the signal wire. Got my passenger to press start and hey presto 0.2 volts. Turns out the connector block to the sensor was knackered. Move it about and a signal would return.
You can test an intermittant sensor by applying heat with a blow drier or heat gun, they should read about 1k ohm, but if you apply heat it may cause it to open up and read open causing a no start or stall
You’re supposed to use an oscilloscope to see what a crank sensor is actually seeing. You *can* test with multimeter but it doesn’t tell the whole story.
Wow, this is definitely a creative way to test the CPS sensor using magnetic polarity, it’s a great way to show whether it works or not, you never said how many volts that it should have. How many volts should a good CPS sensor have from doing this magnetic test?
The crank sensor is a PITA to reach on my Neon so I'll check the wiring schematic to see if I can conduct that test from the connector to the cam position sensor.
What fixed your random cylinder misfires? This is what I have and have done: 1998, 175,000 miles, 3.3L. All stock. Driven like an old lady would drive it. Has thrown the EGR solenoid code since I've had it, the last 10,000 miles. I don't have emissions and don't perceive any driving or fuel economy issues so I've left it be. Mine has never died or not started. It is having intermittent random misfires though (P0300). Pretty rough at times, but only when it's not idling and being driven above 1,600ish RPMs. Gets worse as more load and RPMs is needed. Doesn't appear to be anything in distributor, plugs, or wires (all newish and coil pack checks good). It is worse sometimes than others, and present cold or hot. It seems to get worse after fuel is added too, but then settles down some after 20 or so miles. Coil checked good with 0.6 ohms primary winding, and 11,780 ohms secondary winding. Cap and rotor are good and only 10,000 miles used. So are plugs and wires. PCV valve good. No loss of any oil or coolant. Air intake filter new. Sound familiar to anyone? What fixed your constant random misfires? It does not misfire at idle RPMs, or while coasting down roadway either at any speed. Thanks!
This was very useful, but also frustrating. My 2005 Saab 9-3 began exhibiting CPS issues. From hard starts, to requiring a cool down period before it would restart, to sudden engine stalls to including very rough running. No engine codes. So I swapped out the CPS. The old one had some carbon on it, so I cleaned that off then did this test. It tests nicely and gives 0.35 volts when a bolt passes by it. So did just a few smudges of carbon cause the failure? Can cleaning a CPS eliminate the need to buy a new one?
My 2005 Kawasaki Z750 stalls while riding and sometimes when I shift to a lower gear, it also stalls. If I leave the bike standing for a while, it starts up again. What do you think?
I've got a misfire issue on 3.4 chevy engine. I replaced the cps on the harmonic crankshaft and it made no difference. There's another cps at the back of the engine block that's very hard to remove. When I turn the engine for AC voltage at the end of harness that goes into the ignition control module, it shows only 17/1000ths of a volt. The new one I bought show anywhere from 200 to 400 millivolts when pass a bolt across the magnetic end. Any opinion on my method and the old cps?
I have another question ❓ can i just unplug the crank position sensor and try starting the car ? If i unplug it then connect it to my volt meter i should see what you showed on your video right
I have a yr 2000 E55 Amg and my Crank Sensor gave me no warning and wouldn't start one morning, I UA-cam no starts and someone mentioned Crank sensor could be the problem, I go to Autozone get a $54 dollar Duralast sensor and put some Olive oil on my hand and arm and wiggled my arm down and took it out and put the new one in and I swear I heard a click sound when I put the new one in, wiped my hands off put in the key and boom, she immediately fired up, w0w saved myself a $200 tow ride, a mechanic charging me $250 for a 54 dollar part and $300 Labor costs, w0w.
The crank sensor is low near the crankshaft by the front pulley or in back near the flywheel. The cam position sensor is behind the rear end of the camshaft on the cylinder head. The end of the camshaft holds the target magnet that sends signals to the camshaft position sensor.
Hello everyone i have Astra 1.7 cdti, 2005 . 74 kw. I am tired of it. It have difficult 1st start. After starting it is going like a new car. No smoking with acellutor it go as much 180. Sometime i need to spray to start my car.regularlly change oil filtors. At fist start rmp is going up and down for few seconds. If i will not press gas pedel engine will stop. I have to let engine run few second then i leave the gas pedal it will work normal. Glown plugs bettery. Timing belt,SVC valve sensor are changed. But xar still doing the same.
About 8 years ago now, 2001 Toyota Solara, no start sensor code. on a used motor I'd installed, took it for granted dude said he recently replaced the timing belt and gears until I pulled it apart and looked at the teeth on the crankshaft pulley for the t-belt, which required removing timing belt. Sure enough, tooth on the back lip of the gear was missing a tab, like the ones oh this balancer you have but the gear is only 3" diameter. Ran to a salvage yard, found a 3.0 that was tore down that far and paid like $5. At the time new was $50 for just a gear. put it back together, started perfect. so this mans advise is good to remember.
That may test it to some extent but what if your having an intermittent problem ? Hard starting , no start then hour later starts right up ? Changed crank sensor and no problems since a year later . So im just saying that may diagnose a dead sensor but not one with intermittent internal problems
My dads 94 Volvo 850 was doing the same thing and finally quit and he’s tried new plugs and wires , fuel pump and so on, I know I’m basing this off your experience but u feel it would help to try and fix it for him, it’s been down for 2 years now
I've had this for a few weeks. I bought a 10 quid non contact voltage pen. Next time it didn't start, I whipped it out of the glove box put it on the signal wire. Got my passenger to press start and hey presto 0.2 volts. Turns out the connector block to the sensor was knackered. Move it about and a signal would return.
You can test an intermittant sensor by applying heat with a blow drier or heat gun, they should read about 1k ohm, but if you apply heat it may cause it to open up and read open causing a no start or stall
You’re supposed to use an oscilloscope to see what a crank sensor is actually seeing. You *can* test with multimeter but it doesn’t tell the whole story.
Excellent explanation! Thank you!!
Wow, this is definitely a creative way to test the CPS sensor using magnetic polarity, it’s a great way to show whether it works or not, you never said how many volts that it should have. How many volts should a good CPS sensor have from doing this magnetic test?
Thank you Sir,it was very helpful 👍
Great video! Super helpful.
Thank you Sir. You explain things really well. 😎👍
The crank sensor is a PITA to reach on my Neon so I'll check the wiring schematic to see if I can conduct that test from the connector to the cam position sensor.
What fixed your random cylinder misfires? This is what I have and have done:
1998, 175,000 miles, 3.3L. All stock. Driven like an old lady would drive it.
Has thrown the EGR solenoid code since I've had it, the last 10,000 miles. I don't have emissions and don't perceive any driving or fuel economy issues so I've left it be.
Mine has never died or not started. It is having intermittent random misfires though (P0300). Pretty rough at times, but only when it's not idling and being driven above 1,600ish RPMs. Gets worse as more load and RPMs is needed. Doesn't appear to be anything in distributor, plugs, or wires (all newish and coil pack checks good). It is worse sometimes than others, and present cold or hot. It seems to get worse after fuel is added too, but then settles down some after 20 or so miles.
Coil checked good with 0.6 ohms primary winding, and 11,780 ohms secondary winding. Cap and rotor are good and only 10,000 miles used. So are plugs and wires. PCV valve good. No loss of any oil or coolant. Air intake filter new.
Sound familiar to anyone? What fixed your constant random misfires? It does not misfire at idle RPMs, or while coasting down roadway either at any speed.
Thanks!
Thank you. Useful info.
This was very useful, but also frustrating. My 2005 Saab 9-3 began exhibiting CPS issues. From hard starts, to requiring a cool down period before it would restart, to sudden engine stalls to including very rough running. No engine codes. So I swapped out the CPS. The old one had some carbon on it, so I cleaned that off then did this test. It tests nicely and gives 0.35 volts when a bolt passes by it. So did just a few smudges of carbon cause the failure? Can cleaning a CPS eliminate the need to buy a new one?
Thanks man, Great video!!!
Great content man instant subscription for me
Awesome dude! Thanks!
This will work for camshaft position sensor too right?
Great video
My 2001 generation LS 5.3 has three wires respectively battery signal and ground. Which terminals did you probe?
thankyou very helpful
Coolest guy ever
Great video thanks 👍
Excellent! Thank you!!
what setting did you use on the tester?
Set to dc voltage
Hi, does your crank pully need to be clean, mine was very rusty and dirty so I cleaned it.
Did you connect battery to the sensor??
My 2005 Kawasaki Z750 stalls while riding and sometimes when I shift to a lower gear, it also stalls. If I leave the bike standing for a while, it starts up again. What do you think?
Thanks to you sir 🙏🏼
I've got a misfire issue on 3.4 chevy engine. I replaced the cps on the harmonic crankshaft and it made no difference. There's another cps at the back of the engine block that's very hard to remove. When I turn the engine for AC voltage at the end of harness that goes into the ignition control module, it shows only 17/1000ths of a volt. The new one I bought show anywhere from 200 to 400 millivolts when pass a bolt across the magnetic end.
Any opinion on my method and the old cps?
Grate video
Next time u will show us multimeter's position in times of testing
Thanks 👍😅
How do you test the coil pack
I have another question ❓ can i just unplug the crank position sensor and try starting the car ? If i unplug it then connect it to my volt meter i should see what you showed on your video right
you can unplug it and read it, it's just a sensor. no need to turn the engine over.
Good video thank you
it is all about magnetism and feild. so how oil can affect that??
Oil holds dust and dirt. That stuff can accumulate on the end of the sensor to block the magnetic pickup.
Can.it.tested with ohms?
Hi, that's Dc voltage? Regards
I have a yr 2000 E55 Amg and my Crank Sensor gave me no warning and wouldn't start one morning, I UA-cam no starts and someone mentioned Crank sensor could be the problem, I go to Autozone get a $54 dollar Duralast sensor and put some Olive oil on my hand and arm and wiggled my arm down and took it out and put the new one in and I swear I heard a click sound when I put the new one in, wiped my hands off put in the key and boom, she immediately fired up, w0w saved myself a $200 tow ride, a mechanic charging me $250 for a 54 dollar part and $300 Labor costs, w0w.
💪💪💪💪 great job
Did you have a check engine light ?
Thank you so much
Gret video
How can I test crank shaft position sensor using multi meter of 3 pin
Thanks ❤
Hello sir , i still do not understand about which one is crankshaft sensor and which one is camshaft sensor , are they the same or different ?
The crank sensor is low near the crankshaft by the front pulley or in back near the flywheel. The cam position sensor is behind the rear end of the camshaft on the cylinder head. The end of the camshaft holds the target magnet that sends signals to the camshaft position sensor.
Thanks bro
Hello everyone i have Astra 1.7 cdti, 2005 . 74 kw. I am tired of it. It have difficult 1st start. After starting it is going like a new car. No smoking with acellutor it go as much 180. Sometime i need to spray to start my car.regularlly change oil filtors. At fist start rmp is going up and down for few seconds. If i will not press gas pedel engine will stop. I have to let engine run few second then i leave the gas pedal it will work normal. Glown plugs bettery. Timing belt,SVC valve sensor are changed. But xar still doing the same.
No spark to my spark plugs what can cause that on Chevy 350 engine
Maybe distributor pick up
Little communist gnomes sabotage
Ok Jacki chan got yah
☮️
What about a 3 wire!!??!?!
Do trail and error on which pin is the signal, ground or power
You forgot to explain what you set the multi meter at?? 🤷
20v dc
Did you listen or only watch this ?