Awesome video, Jake/John. This is exactly what I was looking for because I have been searching for different options to finish my beech butcher block I converted into a sweet standing desk while working from home due to COVID. Keep these coming! Very helpful and informative. Love Hardwood Reflections blocks and plan on recommending to family/friends looking for counter tops or desks!
I love my counters however I just can’t get them smooth. Used Birch and water based. I’m ready to sand and start over. I like the floor option. I have spots and ugh ….
I've got butcher block in my kitchen and it's time to coat it again. I love it everywhere but near my sink. I want super low maintenance and I think the floor polyurethane would be best. What brand do you recommend? Also, can I still knead dough out on my counters after it dries? I never use my counters as a cutting board.
I doubt the floor poly is FDA-approved for a food surface. Need to check before you chose. Watco® Butcher Block Oil + Stain is specially formulated for use on wooden butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and other wood applications which require a food safe finish. Easy to apply and maintain, it is nontoxic and safe for food contact when fully dried (meets government standards of 21CFR 175.300
Hello! Great video, thanks guys. So when you say sand to 320, does that mean I have to sand 150, 180, and so forth? Or do I just give it a good pass over with 320? Also, what are your thoughts on sealing with danish oil and using a water based poly top coat? Any thoughts on shellac? Thank you!
You can sand the bare wood w 220 only with these blocks put your seal coat on then hit it with 320 another coat 320 to 400 between each coat you apply. I wouldn't recommend shellac unless you have experience with it oil based finishes are much more forgiving
really appreciate all John's expertise! ...would "Seal Once" brand "NANO+POLY penetrating wood stain & sealer" be a good choice for durability & moisture protection? i'm looking at buying the Hardwood Reflections BIRCH butcher block because it's a lil less expensive than Ash, & i also think Mahogany stain looks great on birch.
HI Ivan! We're not familiar enough with the Nano-poly product to give an opinion. We're hoping others who have used it will help you with that! As far as Birch and Ash - have you taken a peek at our Hevea? It's a good choice too if you're researching price and ability for it to take on a stain like mahogany. Check it out here: hardwoodreflections.com/hevea-butcher-block/
Yes, a bathroom countertop with marine grade top coat would be great idea. Make sure you use it on all sides and edges, and in as many coats as the manufacturer recommends.
I had the same question!! Thanks MR dundon for asking (doing the same for a bathroom countertop) and THANK YOU @Hardwood Reflections for the video and advice!
Howard's oil and conditioner definitely makes the wood pop the most. Could you start with the Howard's oil/conditioner and then apply a floor polyurethane over it to lock in the look?
You should pick one of the other. The Howard's is excellent but it will need to be re-treated every few months. The floor poly is maintenence free. Don't combine the two.
I just redid my entire kitchen and installed all my countertops using butcher blocks.. I used the Howard Butcher Block Conditioner and im not happy with it at all.. We liberally applied 4 coats and my new counters are still staining just from water spots.. And if you get water on it, it not only leaves a stain when it dries, it also pulled some of the wax out and makes the counters feels crusty when the water dries.. I am having to continually scuff the spots out using 0000 steel wool.. After this happen, I did some research and found many reviews of similar experiences from other that use this product..
We can make you happy. This actually happened to me a couple years ago and I was all fired up. Here are some options. 1. do nothing for a month and if you are OCD this will be a problem. Howard's will actually help condition your wood for the kitchen environment. Then when your tops look like it is getting tired or drying up--lightly sand and apply another coat of Howard's. You problem should be fixed (I know this sounds counterproductive). Option 2: Do nothing for one month and let the Howard's dry out. Then sand the top and add a water-based polyurethane--a couple coats and then you are all set. More questions-send me your contact info at hardwoodreflections.com and I can jump on a call with you.
@@HardwoodReflections I have been experimenting and think I found a solution that is working.. After applying allot of coats of the Butcher Block Conditioner, I then wipe the entire counter down with a very damp towel. This causes the wood surface fibers to raise. Once the water dries, the fibers will still be there, which makes the surface feel very rough.. I then sand it with 200 grit which knocks down the raised fibers.. I do this at least 2 times or until the fibers no longer raise when it gets wet.. Then I apply one last coat of the conditioner and it doesnt seem to be staining any more.. I read an article that says the cause is due to the wood fibers that raise when it gets wet, which makes it very susceptible to staining..
I just found your video and have a question...I've got a hickory butcher block countertop in my craft room. It was installed with absolutely nothing done to it. I know I need to sand it before I do anything to it, but what would you suggest to be the best treatment for it? One end will be a sewing counter where my machine is recessed into a hole with an insert to make it a flat surface for sewing on and the other end is my computer desk area. The middle is probably where I will sit my paper cutting machine. I mainly want it to be smooth so that nothing snags on it when I'm working. It is on top of white cabinets that are sitting on an Early American stained hickory wood floor and the walls are painted Sherwin Williams Dutch Tile Blue. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated!!!
I'm disapointed there is no talk about what is food safe. I was looking for options for my countertop. The polyurethane I assume is a no-go, but the Danish Oil and the Conditioner are probably fine? Was hoping to see mineral oil or 100% tung oil as well.
The best food safe is mineral oil or butcher block conditioner. Prior to California's new Prop 65 once a polyurethane is 100% dry after 30-days that was also ok--but those were the olden days:) 2017.
How many coats of water-based polyurethane are typically needed? I'm going to install a live edge countertop in my bathroom and want to ensure that it's adequately sealed. Thanks.
Great question and you are correct in thinking you need a proper finish, especially with adding Butcher Block in a bathroom. We believe the best recommendation would be to add 3-5 coats of water-based polyurethane on all sides and cuts (don't forget the sink hole cut) following the polyurethane's recommendations for sanding between coats. You will also want to properly follow the sink installation instructions with sealant around the sink.
So I bought your butcher block and applied your brand mineral oil. Love them. But every time the sink sprinkles water on cabinet it leaves water spots so I keep re applying which works great til next time we use sink. Which product can I use that will not leave water spots please. Than!!!!
@@HardwoodReflections we are super pleased with the countertops! They are holding up wonderfully. Left you guys a good review! Thank you for all the great tips.
If we do a countertop with the oil/conditioner, how are we supposed to reapply to the bottom side? Do we have to or can we just do the exposed sides and top for the maintenance treatments?
Great question - You'll want to use a permanent finish (polyurethane or other options) on any sides and edges that you won't be able to get to for maintenance. This will keep your countertop safer against moisture or drying out.
Loved your video! Just a quick question for you What is the best to use on a birch counter top that will not be used for any food Is shellac ok? Or polyurethane for floors? I'm trying to replicate a baseball court Any suggestions would be appreciated
Watco® Butcher Block Oil + Stain is specially formulated for use on wooden butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and other wood applications which require a food safe finish. Easy to apply and maintain, it is nontoxic and safe for food contact when fully dried (meets government standards of 21CFR 175.300
Butcher Block looks great in a camper! You could still choose to do the natural mineral oil or conditioner but it will need to be re-treated every few months, even when the camper may not be in use. Multiple coats of polyurethane, either by spray or brush - your preference, is very close to maintenance free and would likely only need to be touched up if it happens to get a scratch by accident. You should pick one or the other. Don't combine the two.
Great question! The Acacia is a beautiful piece. Anytime you use a clear topcoat without any stain, you're going to see the natural beauty come alive. If you're looking for a food-safe cutting board- use the popular mineral oil. If you're not interested in using it as a cutting board then a poly would be appropriate.
What can you tell me about Hevea Butcherblock. Bought your product loved the unfuinished color but when appyling mineral oil the reddish tones came thru...Unfortunitely it was never tested before being installed. Now the tones don't match the kitchen. Help
HI Kim - We'd love to see pictures and learn more about the mineral product that was used. Can you email us at social@hardwoodreflections.com - while we can't know everything about how our product reacts to each sealing product, we would like to make a note of it so others can become aware. Thanks in advance for helping us learn more.
Thanks for the video! Question on the Howard’s. You mention the “oil” but in the video it says the “conditioner”. Which one do did he actually use for his favorite application? They have both so now I’m confused lol
Thanks for the comment Natalie - Thanks for bringing this to our attention and we'll clarify in our description. The Conditioner is a blend of genuine beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax (hardest natural wax available), and pure USP Food Grade Mineral Oil. The consistency of the Conditioner is much like an oil.
Excellent video, thanks! Question: what is the best sealant that you would recommend for a coffee nook? I would need a durable sealant for all the coffee drips that will inevitably fall on the block, but the block will also kind of double as a stationary with some paper, so I’m thinking mineral oil might not be the best choice. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the great question! A polyurethane coat will keep all that moisture sealed in, and will be added protection, but it can still get rings, water damage like any other wood surface. But if you want a food safe area, we do suggest mineral oil. Think of the wood as a big sponge. A couple of coats of mineral oil will bring the wood to life. Months down the road, it could use another coat, filling that wood. After a few times, it won’t need it anymore because the wood will be nice and saturated. Some people prefer polyurethane because there is no maintenance. Some people prefer mineral oil because a stain can be sanded off and more mineral oil added and you’re done, while polyurethane would require more time to reapply. Either way you go, you’ll want to wipe up spills as soon as you see them, knowing that the problem can be fixed with either of these treatments.
I like the durability aspect of a polyurethane coating, but I do want the wood to either have depth or a stain. Can I stain the wood before applying a polyurethane coating, if so do I need to stick to a certain type of stain?
U bet. The trick is to stain as many coats until you are 100% happy with the color. Wait about a month and then use a polyurethane top coat. I know a month sounds like a long time but you can use your counter in the meantime. The top coat will make the wood maintenence free.
@@HardwoodReflections what happens if I don't have a month to wait? don't I need to have them fully treated top/bottom before installing? or can I stain, install, wait 30 days then treat the upper/front edge with the poly?
I purchased VT industries Hevea butcher blocks for my kitchen counters. I put 4 coats of Howards Butcher Block conditioner prior to installation. I had to wait about 3 weeks for installation. I have had these countertops for only a few days and already have a serious water stain. I do live in a very hot and dry area. I need to figure out how to protect these countertops from serious water damage. I did see a tung oil & citrus solvent product but I am unsure what to do. This is my only experience with a butcher block counter.
HI Jennifer - We're not sure about the VT Industries product but we'll try to help with the butcher block questions. Are you using your countertop as a cutting board? Generally, it's recommended that the conditioner is followed up with a few coats of mineral oil. If you're not using this as a cutting board, we could make a few other recommendations.
@@HardwoodReflections I am using the butcher block as countertops. I am finding that the countertops need to be treated with the conditioner very frequently.
There are 7 food-safe finishes that we know of. Our recommendations are here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
Does Howard’s butcher block conditioner adhere to the Howard’s mineral oil already on the wood? Also, does the Howard’s conditioner prevent visible water spots from sink splatter ? Thanks so much!!!
Great questions. You'll want to clean off the surface of the piece before adding any other finishing product. You'll appreciate it in the long run. To remove the mineral oil, use just a little bit of warm water, light dish soap and some elbow grease. The mineral oil will wash off. Then sand it with a fine sandpaper and you're ready to apply your finish product. We have fielded questions about water spots, but not sure if it was with this product. They do wipe up without problem. Also, you might want to consider how much water you're expecting to splatter, and think about a more permanent sealant option like polyurethane.
I have just bleached clean a 3" thick butcher block that a friend gave me out of there garage. It looks good now and I had it kiln dried with clamps for a week. But, there still is a separation between the wood strips. All I can see to do is use epoxy to fill the spaces. I'm afraid of the process of epoxy but will do it in order to use this block for it's intended purpose. Any more suggestions?
Question for Mr. John: I need a counter top / bar top that will get lots of use & abuse. I will be setting hot pans on it, & using it to roll out pie dough, etc. Can I use a butcher block for this? Which wood is best for a hardy, long lasting butcher block counter top? What's the best way to treat it so it's food safe? Thank you. I've looked online & can't find the answer.
Hello and thanks for your questions. We are certain that butcher block can hold up to a lot of use and abuse, but the hot pans direct on any surface will leave marks. The Ash Butcher Block in our line has the highest hardiness rating, but you'd find 9 other options to choose from that would meet your countertop needs too. We have a great resource on food safe options so you can use the entire board as a cutting board too. Find the food safe tutorial here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/ Feel free to message us through our Facebook or Instagram pages too for fast response!
@@HardwoodReflections Thank you very much! This is so helpful. I was undecided between getting maple or ash, but didn't have a whole lot of info to go on. Thank you for the great article too. I can now breathe easier knowing all of this.
Dustin - This one can be done, but the weather elements will likely cause problems if you don't get the block sealed completely. We would look into a Marine Grade Wood Sealant/Finish if this was a personal project of ours.
Really helpful video, thanks for sharing! I read through the comments but didn’t really see how people went about converting the butcher block into a functional desk. Is it best to use mineral oil and then a poly coat? Thanks again!
We are finishing our complete kitchen remodel and are now getting ready to finish our butcher block HR counter top and island top. I think I'm narrowed down to danish oil or the Howard butcher block conditioner, is there any way to get them a bit darker in color?
Great question. You can always add some stain to make the wood darker. I like to experiment on the back side (the one side you will not use). The danish and Howards will both darken the wood. I use Howard's in my cabin kitchen and it has worked great.
I am getting ready to finish the butcher block countertop that I bought and want to use a water-based polyurethane. Is there a certain brand that you would recommend? What about a polycrylic?
We don't have a favorite for the water-based poly, but we find ourselves using General Finishes when we can't use our own top coat. For the polycrylic, just keep in mind that the butcher block because of how it's made tends to need more product than a regular piece of wood when it comes to application.
Hi Chris - Great Question. If you're using mineral oil, you probably are wanting to use the countertop as a cutting board, therefore, needing it to be a food-safe finish. In that case, you will not want to stain it.
I bought some of y'all's butcher block to use as a desktop. There seem to be random imperfections (which I'm sure are normal for unfinished wood). They include some valleys and contours. Is there a way for me to get them out? Do I need to use a planer or would an orbital sander work? (maybe with a hard backing pad for rigidity)?? Thanks!
Gentelmen, thank you for a great video... Question - I have a mobile home trailer (2nd home) which I would like to replace the counter tops with Butcher block. I live in AZ and during the summer when were not there it can get very hot inside. Should I be concerned with that when it comes to butcher block? Thank you!
What a great question. The wood will move a little, but in your case we need to worry about expansion. I would leave an 1/8" expansion in the back--like a caulk line. This should work great. I have a cabin that gets to zero in the wintertime and I did the same thing. Also don't glue down the top onto the cabinets. Use good wood screws.
@@HardwoodReflections Is expansion/contraction a concern in a home that will be heated/air conditioned year round? I purchased the block yesterday and the plan is to use it as a vanity top that will make full contact with the wall on 3 sides.
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
this was very helpful for my custom desk build, thanks so much
Did you guild that desk? Is it resistant to liquids (tea,coffee, juice etc)?
Definitely helpful! Applyed Howard conditioner on the recent purchase of acacia wood.
Awesome video, Jake/John. This is exactly what I was looking for because I have been searching for different options to finish my beech butcher block I converted into a sweet standing desk while working from home due to COVID. Keep these coming! Very helpful and informative. Love Hardwood Reflections blocks and plan on recommending to family/friends looking for counter tops or desks!
You're very welcome!
Which finish did you use
@@HardwoodReflections What color Dutch Oil did John use? I'm getting the Birch countertop and I want it that color.
Thanks so much. Fabulous presentation. Refinished my oak counters with such confidence. They look great!
This was very helpful, thank you.
Floor polyurethane for the win.
Thanks. I'm making a couple benches. I'm going with the polyuerethane.
This video is amazing. More of this guy please ❤
I love my counters however I just can’t get them smooth. Used Birch and water based. I’m ready to sand and start over. I like the floor option. I have spots and ugh ….
I've got butcher block in my kitchen and it's time to coat it again. I love it everywhere but near my sink. I want super low maintenance and I think the floor polyurethane would be best. What brand do you recommend? Also, can I still knead dough out on my counters after it dries? I never use my counters as a cutting board.
Thanks!
I doubt the floor poly is FDA-approved for a food surface.
Need to check before you chose.
Watco® Butcher Block Oil + Stain is specially formulated for use on wooden butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and other wood applications which require a food safe finish. Easy to apply and maintain, it is nontoxic and safe for food contact when fully dried (meets government standards of 21CFR 175.300
Hi Jake from Hardwood reflections✋
Hi Badhabit!
Hello! Great video, thanks guys.
So when you say sand to 320, does that mean I have to sand 150, 180, and so forth? Or do I just give it a good pass over with 320?
Also, what are your thoughts on sealing with danish oil and using a water based poly top coat?
Any thoughts on shellac?
Thank you!
You can sand the bare wood w 220 only with these blocks put your seal coat on then hit it with 320 another coat 320 to 400 between each coat you apply. I wouldn't recommend shellac unless you have experience with it oil based finishes are much more forgiving
Correct me if I am wrong but is butcher block not end grain? These are slab top but not butcher block.
If I just oiled a brand new butcher block countertop and now want to apply a polyurethane for safer protection. Is that ok?
really appreciate all John's expertise!
...would "Seal Once" brand "NANO+POLY penetrating wood stain & sealer" be a good choice for durability & moisture protection? i'm looking at buying the Hardwood Reflections BIRCH butcher block because it's a lil less expensive than Ash, & i also think Mahogany stain looks great on birch.
HI Ivan! We're not familiar enough with the Nano-poly product to give an opinion. We're hoping others who have used it will help you with that! As far as Birch and Ash - have you taken a peek at our Hevea? It's a good choice too if you're researching price and ability for it to take on a stain like mahogany. Check it out here: hardwoodreflections.com/hevea-butcher-block/
@@HardwoodReflections ...thx for the suggestion, & I also like that havea is one of the more sustainable options too.
We bought a piece for a bathroom countertop. Do you suggest the marine grade finish for that purpose?
Yes, a bathroom countertop with marine grade top coat would be great idea. Make sure you use it on all sides and edges, and in as many coats as the manufacturer recommends.
I had the same question!! Thanks MR dundon for asking (doing the same for a bathroom countertop) and THANK YOU @Hardwood Reflections for the video and advice!
Is it a good idea to use the Howard's conditioner before staining and then sealing with polyeurethane? This is on a birch butcher block countertop
Howard's oil and conditioner definitely makes the wood pop the most. Could you start with the Howard's oil/conditioner and then apply a floor polyurethane over it to lock in the look?
You should pick one of the other. The Howard's is excellent but it will need to be re-treated every few months. The floor poly is maintenence free. Don't combine the two.
Have you guys ever used an epoxy? How would that be different than a polyurethane?
I just redid my entire kitchen and installed all my countertops using butcher blocks.. I used the Howard Butcher Block Conditioner and im not happy with it at all.. We liberally applied 4 coats and my new counters are still staining just from water spots.. And if you get water on it, it not only leaves a stain when it dries, it also pulled some of the wax out and makes the counters feels crusty when the water dries.. I am having to continually scuff the spots out using 0000 steel wool.. After this happen, I did some research and found many reviews of similar experiences from other that use this product..
We can make you happy. This actually happened to me a couple years ago and I was all fired up. Here are some options. 1. do nothing for a month and if you are OCD this will be a problem. Howard's will actually help condition your wood for the kitchen environment. Then when your tops look like it is getting tired or drying up--lightly sand and apply another coat of Howard's. You problem should be fixed (I know this sounds counterproductive). Option 2: Do nothing for one month and let the Howard's dry out. Then sand the top and add a water-based polyurethane--a couple coats and then you are all set. More questions-send me your contact info at hardwoodreflections.com and I can jump on a call with you.
@@HardwoodReflections I have been experimenting and think I found a solution that is working.. After applying allot of coats of the Butcher Block Conditioner, I then wipe the entire counter down with a very damp towel. This causes the wood surface fibers to raise. Once the water dries, the fibers will still be there, which makes the surface feel very rough.. I then sand it with 200 grit which knocks down the raised fibers.. I do this at least 2 times or until the fibers no longer raise when it gets wet.. Then I apply one last coat of the conditioner and it doesnt seem to be staining any more.. I read an article that says the cause is due to the wood fibers that raise when it gets wet, which makes it very susceptible to staining..
I just found your video and have a question...I've got a hickory butcher block countertop in my craft room. It was installed with absolutely nothing done to it. I know I need to sand it before I do anything to it, but what would you suggest to be the best treatment for it? One end will be a sewing counter where my machine is recessed into a hole with an insert to make it a flat surface for sewing on and the other end is my computer desk area. The middle is probably where I will sit my paper cutting machine. I mainly want it to be smooth so that nothing snags on it when I'm working. It is on top of white cabinets that are sitting on an Early American stained hickory wood floor and the walls are painted Sherwin Williams Dutch Tile Blue. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated!!!
Why the product with more maintenance?
I have 0 intention of using this butcher block for food prep or anything related. Is it ok to stain and poly with sanding?
As long as you do not intend to use your countertop as a cutting board, any finish and stain is acceptable.
@@HardwoodReflections installed and looks great!
I'm disapointed there is no talk about what is food safe. I was looking for options for my countertop. The polyurethane I assume is a no-go, but the Danish Oil and the Conditioner are probably fine? Was hoping to see mineral oil or 100% tung oil as well.
Look for Waterlox. It is completely food safe
The best food safe is mineral oil or butcher block conditioner. Prior to California's new Prop 65 once a polyurethane is 100% dry after 30-days that was also ok--but those were the olden days:) 2017.
Why wood you use a non food safe approved finish on a countertop?
How many coats of water-based polyurethane are typically needed? I'm going to install a live edge countertop in my bathroom and want to ensure that it's adequately sealed. Thanks.
Great question and you are correct in thinking you need a proper finish, especially with adding Butcher Block in a bathroom. We believe the best recommendation would be to add 3-5 coats of water-based polyurethane on all sides and cuts (don't forget the sink hole cut) following the polyurethane's recommendations for sanding between coats. You will also want to properly follow the sink installation instructions with sealant around the sink.
So I bought your butcher block and applied your brand mineral oil. Love them. But every time the sink sprinkles water on cabinet it leaves water spots so
I keep re applying which works great til next time we use sink. Which product can I use that will not leave water spots please. Than!!!!
Give us an update on your water spot problem! And if you can, send us a picture through our FB profile or email at social@hardwoodreflections.com
Hi! Love your videos and we just bought your butcher block.
Should both sides of the block be finished for a kitchen countertop?
Yes. Finishing all sides in the way to go.
@@HardwoodReflections we are super pleased with the countertops! They are holding up wonderfully. Left you guys a good review! Thank you for all the great tips.
If we do a countertop with the oil/conditioner, how are we supposed to reapply to the bottom side? Do we have to or can we just do the exposed sides and top for the maintenance treatments?
Great question - You'll want to use a permanent finish (polyurethane or other options) on any sides and edges that you won't be able to get to for maintenance. This will keep your countertop safer against moisture or drying out.
None of them are the finish I want to see. I’m looking for super shiny
Loved your video! Just a quick question for you
What is the best to use on a birch counter top that will not be used for any food
Is shellac ok? Or polyurethane for floors?
I'm trying to replicate a baseball court
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Watco® Butcher Block Oil + Stain is specially formulated for use on wooden butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and other wood applications which require a food safe finish. Easy to apply and maintain, it is nontoxic and safe for food contact when fully dried (meets government standards of 21CFR 175.300
Thanks guys. What would you recommend in a camper?
Butcher Block looks great in a camper! You could still choose to do the natural mineral oil or conditioner but it will need to be re-treated every few months, even when the camper may not be in use. Multiple coats of polyurethane, either by spray or brush - your preference, is very close to maintenance free and would likely only need to be touched up if it happens to get a scratch by accident. You should pick one or the other. Don't combine the two.
Thoughts on Acadia butcher block finishing tips to bring out the natural wood character?
Great question! The Acacia is a beautiful piece. Anytime you use a clear topcoat without any stain, you're going to see the natural beauty come alive. If you're looking for a food-safe cutting board- use the popular mineral oil. If you're not interested in using it as a cutting board then a poly would be appropriate.
What kind of finish would you recommend for a work bench application.
We'd use something like a floor poly or marine grade poly to best take on the punishment that a work bench endures.
What can you tell me about Hevea Butcherblock. Bought your product loved the unfuinished color but when appyling mineral oil the reddish tones came thru...Unfortunitely it was never tested before being installed. Now the tones don't match the kitchen. Help
HI Kim - We'd love to see pictures and learn more about the mineral product that was used. Can you email us at social@hardwoodreflections.com - while we can't know everything about how our product reacts to each sealing product, we would like to make a note of it so others can become aware. Thanks in advance for helping us learn more.
No mention of stain and how to finish it.
Thanks for the video!
Question on the Howard’s. You mention the “oil” but in the video it says the “conditioner”.
Which one do did he actually use for his favorite application? They have both so now I’m confused lol
Thanks for the comment Natalie - Thanks for bringing this to our attention and we'll clarify in our description. The Conditioner is a blend of genuine beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax (hardest natural wax available), and pure USP Food Grade Mineral Oil. The consistency of the Conditioner is much like an oil.
Excellent video, thanks!
Question: what is the best sealant that you would recommend for a coffee nook? I would need a durable sealant for all the coffee drips that will inevitably fall on the block, but the block will also kind of double as a stationary with some paper, so I’m thinking mineral oil might not be the best choice. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the great question! A polyurethane coat will keep all that moisture sealed in, and will be added protection, but it can still get rings, water damage like any other wood surface. But if you want a food safe area, we do suggest mineral oil. Think of the wood as a big sponge. A couple of coats of mineral oil will bring the wood to life. Months down the road, it could use another coat, filling that wood. After a few times, it won’t need it anymore because the wood will be nice and saturated.
Some people prefer polyurethane because there is no maintenance. Some people prefer mineral oil because a stain can be sanded off and more mineral oil added and you’re done, while polyurethane would require more time to reapply.
Either way you go, you’ll want to wipe up spills as soon as you see them, knowing that the problem can be fixed with either of these treatments.
I’m wondering if the danish oil would be a good choice for my project, what color did you use on your sample? Was it natural? It’s beautiful!!!
I like the durability aspect of a polyurethane coating, but I do want the wood to either have depth or a stain. Can I stain the wood before applying a polyurethane coating, if so do I need to stick to a certain type of stain?
U bet. The trick is to stain as many coats until you are 100% happy with the color. Wait about a month and then use a polyurethane top coat. I know a month sounds like a long time but you can use your counter in the meantime. The top coat will make the wood maintenence free.
@@HardwoodReflections what happens if I don't have a month to wait? don't I need to have them fully treated top/bottom before installing? or can I stain, install, wait 30 days then treat the upper/front edge with the poly?
@@redhotpottery I just had a woodworker apply poly right after 2 coats of stain so I hope its not an issue
@@netm203 I ended up doing it right away and it's been a few months, they look great.
@@redhotpottery thats good news then. I hope to have someone install it Tuesday. Was the install fairly easy?
I purchased VT industries Hevea butcher blocks for my kitchen counters. I put 4 coats of Howards Butcher Block conditioner prior to installation. I had to wait about 3 weeks for installation. I have had these countertops for only a few days and already have a serious water stain. I do live in a very hot and dry area. I need to figure out how to protect these countertops from serious water damage. I did see a tung oil & citrus solvent product but I am unsure what to do. This is my only experience with a butcher block counter.
HI Jennifer - We're not sure about the VT Industries product but we'll try to help with the butcher block questions. Are you using your countertop as a cutting board? Generally, it's recommended that the conditioner is followed up with a few coats of mineral oil. If you're not using this as a cutting board, we could make a few other recommendations.
@@HardwoodReflections I am using the butcher block as countertops. I am finding that the countertops need to be treated with the conditioner very frequently.
how about this,what you are putting on the butcher block,will the coating be food approved??
There are 7 food-safe finishes that we know of. Our recommendations are here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
Does Howard’s butcher block conditioner adhere to the Howard’s mineral oil already on the wood? Also, does the Howard’s conditioner prevent visible water spots from sink splatter ? Thanks so much!!!
Great questions. You'll want to clean off the surface of the piece before adding any other finishing product. You'll appreciate it in the long run. To remove the mineral oil, use just a little bit of warm water, light dish soap and some elbow grease. The mineral oil will wash off. Then sand it with a fine sandpaper and you're ready to apply your finish product. We have fielded questions about water spots, but not sure if it was with this product. They do wipe up without problem. Also, you might want to consider how much water you're expecting to splatter, and think about a more permanent sealant option like polyurethane.
I have just bleached clean a 3" thick butcher block that a friend gave me out of there garage. It looks good now and I had it kiln dried with clamps for a week. But, there still is a separation between the wood strips. All I can see to do is use epoxy to fill the spaces. I'm afraid of the process of epoxy but will do it in order to use this block for it's intended purpose. Any more suggestions?
I like to use a wood filler opposed to the epoxy. Try a Timbermate brand.
Question for Mr. John: I need a counter top / bar top that will get lots of use & abuse. I will be setting hot pans on it, & using it to roll out pie dough, etc. Can I use a butcher block for this? Which wood is best for a hardy, long lasting butcher block counter top? What's the best way to treat it so it's food safe? Thank you. I've looked online & can't find the answer.
Hello and thanks for your questions. We are certain that butcher block can hold up to a lot of use and abuse, but the hot pans direct on any surface will leave marks. The Ash Butcher Block in our line has the highest hardiness rating, but you'd find 9 other options to choose from that would meet your countertop needs too. We have a great resource on food safe options so you can use the entire board as a cutting board too. Find the food safe tutorial here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
Feel free to message us through our Facebook or Instagram pages too for fast response!
@@HardwoodReflections Thank you very much! This is so helpful. I was undecided between getting maple or ash, but didn't have a whole lot of info to go on. Thank you for the great article too. I can now breathe easier knowing all of this.
What would you recommend doing if I’m using it for an exterior bar area? It will be covered, but still outdoors.
Dustin - This one can be done, but the weather elements will likely cause problems if you don't get the block sealed completely. We would look into a Marine Grade Wood Sealant/Finish if this was a personal project of ours.
You don't mention food safety on the video. Which of the finishes is food safe?
You have a few options for food safe finishes. We cover them in depth here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
do you do both sides with interbuild hardwax oil when using for a bar top? and how long do you let it dry?
Hello - We'd refer you to the manufacturers recommendations on this question. If it's like most top coats, we'd expect it to be 24 hours.
Really helpful video, thanks for sharing! I read through the comments but didn’t really see how people went about converting the butcher block into a functional desk. Is it best to use mineral oil and then a poly coat? Thanks again!
Mineral oil makes you papers stick and I just don't like on a desktop. I really like using a water-based polyurethane for best desk results.
Exactly what I was looking for. Making one of these into a desktop and needed to know what finish to use. Great video and thanks for the tips!
We are finishing our complete kitchen remodel and are now getting ready to finish our butcher block HR counter top and island top. I think I'm narrowed down to danish oil or the Howard butcher block conditioner, is there any way to get them a bit darker in color?
Great question. You can always add some stain to make the wood darker. I like to experiment on the back side (the one side you will not use). The danish and Howards will both darken the wood. I use Howard's in my cabin kitchen and it has worked great.
I am getting ready to finish the butcher block countertop that I bought and want to use a water-based polyurethane. Is there a certain brand that you would recommend? What about a polycrylic?
We don't have a favorite for the water-based poly, but we find ourselves using General Finishes when we can't use our own top coat. For the polycrylic, just keep in mind that the butcher block because of how it's made tends to need more product than a regular piece of wood when it comes to application.
@@HardwoodReflections Thank you for that information and for the great tutorials!
Why do they all look so yellow? I didn't like the look of any of them.
They didn’t stain any of them, just finished it using polyurethane
@hardwoodreflections what do you recommend for a table surface that will have hot mugs on them?
You can go with any choice. I have conditioner on blocks and poly on others. Mugs pose no problems to any treating.
After you season the board with mineral oil, can you still stain it?
Hi Chris - Great Question. If you're using mineral oil, you probably are wanting to use the countertop as a cutting board, therefore, needing it to be a food-safe finish. In that case, you will not want to stain it.
There is a butcher block oil + stain by Watco and the front label says its safe for food contact.
I bought some of y'all's butcher block to use as a desktop. There seem to be random imperfections (which I'm sure are normal for unfinished wood). They include some valleys and contours. Is there a way for me to get them out? Do I need to use a planer or would an orbital sander work? (maybe with a hard backing pad for rigidity)?? Thanks!
Thomas Hey, I’m getting a birch one, you think I should invest in a sander tool to sand it down or is it smooth as is? I’m planning to stain it
Can I use a conditioner and a polyurethane top coat?
I like to choose one of the other. Go with a poly + top coat or just a butcher block conditioner.
@@HardwoodReflections Does one protect against water damage better than the other? I'll be using it for a vanity top in a bathroom.
How to get it to a darker color?
Stain.
Use a gel stain. Make sure you wipe after each application.
I don’t think I’d want those chemicals on my countertop with the flooring polyurethane.
Gentelmen, thank you for a great video... Question - I have a mobile home trailer (2nd home) which I would like to replace the counter tops with Butcher block. I live in AZ and during the summer when were not there it can get very hot inside. Should I be concerned with that when it comes to butcher block? Thank you!
What a great question. The wood will move a little, but in your case we need to worry about expansion. I would leave an 1/8" expansion in the back--like a caulk line. This should work great. I have a cabin that gets to zero in the wintertime and I did the same thing. Also don't glue down the top onto the cabinets. Use good wood screws.
@@HardwoodReflections Will do, thank you!!
@@HardwoodReflections Is expansion/contraction a concern in a home that will be heated/air conditioned year round? I purchased the block yesterday and the plan is to use it as a vanity top that will make full contact with the wall on 3 sides.
I think most people just oil their butcher block and call it a day.
What sheen do you use for the floor polyurethane?
We usually use a semi-gloss but you can go with anything.
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
Food safe
Actually
All but one ... not food safe. DUH