How to File a Chainsaw Like a Logger
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2023
- 10 guys will file a chain 10 different ways. This is how I do it. It works great for me. It takes a lot of practice to get good. When I grow up I hope I'm great at it. Best of luck to you, hope this helps.
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One way to keep your chainsaws sharp is by doing all your dirt cuts with someone else’s saw….
Haha love it
Hey! That’s what I usually do!
😂
Thought it was my secret..
My son already knew that.
I used to do a newrly identical process, did it for years. Switched to a raker gauge, and I’ll never go back to eyeballing them.
When you’ve rocked the chain a few times and you have 6 to 10 cutters which are much shorter than the rest? If you use a gauge to match the raker to that tooth, it still cuts glass smooth like a brand new chain.
I no longer bother to worry about cutter length. If some can be 80% of original length and others are mostly gone, yet the chain cuts smoothly? I’m happy and it’s worth carrying a gauge back into the woods.
Especially since West Coast Saw’s is a thin sheetmetal business card that disappears in a pocket and works so damn well.
Might have to look into that
@@timberhillinc please do, if you like butter cuts and smooth running!
I’ve been cutting firewood for 22 years to heat my home and always sharpened my chain like you have shown and always had good results. 2 years ago I purchased a sharpener that cuts the rake and tooth with the same stroke made by Stihl and man does it do a fantastic job. I’m a hand file guy and I won’t use anything else from now on.
Same experience with the 2 in 1 Sharpener, saves me time, and got very good results.
I have one of those as well, worth every penny and the files are replaceable.
@@thastinger345 these are brilliant
Dude there's 50 bucks now I paid under 40 last time and I thought u could just switch out the size file but I guess not I bought the 3/8 2in 1 and I like to use .325 - 3/8- 3/8lp and 1/4
@@FirstnameLastname007 I have a 3/8 since the begining. It was around 30 € here in France. And yes, it's one device per chain type, which somehow sucks. Probably not worth it if you're running different chains. Does the job for me, looking around to find a used one for sale for my 3/8 Pico chains (I'm running a Husky 365 and a light sthil 30cc when the tree is down).
Man I hope you keep up the videos. Liked the simple approach to sharpening. Solid stuff!
I'm not at all a woodsman by any means, but when I was told I needed to file the rakers on my saw I'm here to tell you I filed them... alot that chain would damn near pull the saw out of your hands... live and learn😂😂😂
Nice job! Cuts like it's going through butter. Love the suspenders!
This is excellent content. Nice work on the editing too. Loved everything you had to say. Subscribed!
When you started up that Husky it reminded me of my first one. Sweet and always started! My newest husky is good but has a short bar, cuz I'm gittin' old and only cut a bit of fire wood. After 45+ years I still like the Husky's.
Thanks for the video, I've always sharpened like that too and your comment about "taking a break" as you file is that reset.
the way you amerifarts pronounce husqvarna =[
Thank you for making this video I have learnt some great tips just like that bit of wood under the chain an easy clear video to follow
Regards
Steve UK London
Great video. My dad taught me to hand file, but still I picked up a couple of good tricks from this video, like the stick under the chain. But much of what he taught me was as you described. I believe this knowledge was passed down by grandfather... so this stuff is old school and tried and true.
Excellent video thanks from Ireland
I'm only a landscaper and I usually don't handle a chainsaw until fall/winter tree work and I gave up using the "saw shop" sharpening service, the time saved sharpening your own chain is well worth the hack job I do to my chains.
if you don't like how you sharpen a chain .. get better at it
ok , peanut gallery chat here . 40+yrs dealer and home sharpening , file and grind (thousands of grinds ) , GREAT 'tutorial' . one point you missed in word but you did in practice ; 10* up angle on file . important in technique in field more than the angles as help keep file "C" , on tooth where it belongs AND angles file thru corner cutting point as it should be .... will stay sharp longer . good stuff .
Thank you!
@@timberhillinc So, to sum it up, the file should not be flat but at about a 10 degree angle. What's the reason for this, though (just curious) ? 🙂
And thanks for the great video, much appreciated.
Hey man, fantastic tutorial! Your tempo & speed of delivery is outstanding! My 1st vid of yours and I’m now subbed! Keep ‘em coming brother!
Thanks, will do!
i only cut 6 or so cords of firewood a year to heat with. love watching you daily drivers for some pro insight!
That was a good informative video. Nice work.
I’ve had too many saw blades messed up by saw shops. So, I’m watching these videos to try to bet better at sharpening my saws
Good for you. It's a very useful skill to have if you use a saw often. I am constantly trying to get better at it myself. This method is my go to because it works well for me, but I experiment with different techniques while maintaining my bar and sharpening my chain to see if I can improve in any way. Good Luck!
"do something besides pack that saw around and be scared for your life" frickin hilarious
Great attitude and very helpful.
Nice vid.
Got yourself a new subscriber.
Keep it up and stay safe !
Great and simply put. Thanks for sharing.
Suspenders: Things to keep yer stockings up. But 'I'm a lumberjack so that's okay'. Old Brit geezer joke. Yer filing is very like mine. Good stuff.
All good tips,Thanks for your informative video.
Top work mate! I only saw my own trees- but watching you made me realise that i should subscribe for more fashion tips
Haha thank you!
Nice job man! The best way to learn how to file a saw is to just start doing it. An old guy showed me this stuff years ago. Now I'm becoming the old guy. Those old clapped out 372 saws are the way to go.
Thank you! That's where I learned, the old timber faller. (Grandpa in-law then father in-law) Those are good saws.
The chest clamp method! Good to see your method and to find your channel. I've subbed
I like trees too, especially with my 372 in hand! nice video!
great info brother. people need to learn this I can't stand hearing home owners don't have a saw because there waiting on the shop to sharpen the chain!
Been a production faller for years now own our own little family run logging outfit and that's about as good a video on how to I've seen on the tube.
We always carry several sharp chains in our pack to limit the time spent filing on a stump.
That's the solution I ended up at on the fireground. I still carried a stump vice and files, but it was worth the weight of two extra chains to keep moving and sort it back at the nice workbench at the end of the day in the shed infront of the fan. I don't understand the physics/biology/paranormal phenomenon, but logs were never located in the shade.
I can sharpen faster than you can change your chain. As long as I didn't hit a rock
@@garystamour9817 I should have clarified, I'm thinking mostly about working on fire grounds where we were opening up Australian hardwoods, often termite infested and contaminated with mineral earth and mopping up burning crap on the ground in sandstone escarpment country with rock everywhere that we would inevitably knick every now and then. So it might be a good ten proper file strokes per tooth for a sharpen. And we were often flown in by heli with everyone on overtime so every hour on the fireground was worth big money. And then the maddening heat. Hence the weighting given to a shady shed and a fan! But I also tended to carry that practice on into general trail clearing out of habit.
@@garystamour9817
I'm sure lots can sharpen quicker than me. I still carry a stump clamp and files but run my own company now so no body bitches when the boss hits a rock and wants to swap out chains. I find as I get older....I seem to have become a rock magnet for some odd reason.
Zen and the Art of Chainsaw Maintenance
Very awesome video!
Your the first guy I've ever seen file like I do, right hand then the left
Every fiber in my body is screaming "your doing it wrong" yet it's all going pretty swimmingly 😂
great video, very informative. that one is wicked sharp, cuttin like butter
Thank you! I try.
A find stainless wire toothbrush is fantastic for cleaning files and keeping them cutting good and if they sit the filings don’t rust in the groves. Your more fuel efficient to sharpen your chains
It's sharp! Great video. Nice touch with the piece of timber. P. S. Nice suspenders. You can't beat original thinking.
Thanks 👍
Great video buddy definitely I tell you something might help you dig your saw into a log a little bit and sharpen it that way that way your bar is not bouncing around. That's what I do it helps a lot God bless
Been running chainsaws for many many years. Since I was a child. Still trying to improve my sharpening skills. Fell into the “extra chain” trap for too long. Time to get this file thing down to a science. I like to take my time falling trees so I need sharp chains to keep up the pace at a steady rate of fall
Good video man, thats how I've always done it.
the Husqvarna 5052435-01 Combination Gauge 3/8 inch (5.5 mm) is a progressive raker gauge with soft and hard wood settings. compact and easy enough to carry and use.
Good tips, appreciate the time.
Awesome video. Simple approach, I’m sure it takes practice to get it right, I’m gonna try to start doing it this way.
Thank you. Hope it works out for you.
As someone who is new to using a chainsaw- (2-3 years)- the idea of using one 1 handed is so unfathomable. Hope to see more content-
Haha that was purely cinematic, to show the good cutting chain. Rarely do I do that in practice, maybe sometimes when I have it dawged into a back cut while falling a tree. Otherwise I feel in most situations, it's very unsafe. Thank you much
Nice vibe. Good advice.
Appreciate that
I've seen a lot of rookies file too deep so you get a hook edge that won't hold sharp for long. I always finish the stroke with a slight up pull to smooth off the upper edge with the mid file. Also sometimes use a triangle file for last stroke.
Production timber fallers often grind several chains after work and take them to work, changing a chain take less time than filing. Time to sharpen on job cuts down on board feet. Plus it’s hard to beat a Silvey square chain grinder. As a firewood cutter, I appreciated the info on this video.
A lot more comes into play when you talk about long term production. That "mental reset" I talked about, leaves you feeling way better, being able to make up that little time, and more, quickly. Anyway, just my opinion, little food for thought. Thanks for watching and sharing.
@@timberhillinc Yeah, I like the mental reset idea. Something about focusing on sharpening kinda puts you in a different zen mode or something. I don't sharpen in the woods if I don't have to. But, I'm not cutting all day long either, and usually not to far of a walk back to the truck to grab a different chain or saw. You make really good videos. You could have showed a little slower and close up of how you get to the last little bit, where the chrome on the tooth comes off though. More tips please!
No need for silvey or extra chains. Learn to sharpen your saw faster-better.
A file is a lot lighter than several chains. In the time it takes to swap a chain, you pretty much have your saw filed. That may work for firewood, but packing in and felling is a different story. You might want to carry a spare chain, but it is super easy to break out the file and get busy
@@hillbilly4christ638 with a week leeway ahead of cats-long ago, steep ground, skidders and no time to spare, filing a chain on the jobs slows down timber hitting the ground. Even cutting firewood I didn’t want to spend time filing a chain unless minor fast touch up, however if the teams filed their chains every time they rocked or hit some metal in tree, you do not want production crew waiting on timber fallers, and if you didn’t stay ahead, you would be looking for another job. I never worked with a timber faller that didn’t own a Simington or Silvey square chain grinder and didn’t file chains after work in preparation for next day, lot of teeth on a 36” to 42” chain, Big timber jobs in Sierra Nevadas, 3 to five steep sides, 4-6 sets of fallers, trucks lined up at landings. Sierra Pacific Logging owned by Red Emerson, one of the top five land owners in US, busy busy logging operations. I have no doubt you are faster with a file than I, you have to be and I am sure filing is the better route for you. Things change, I retired years ago when the state of the art and go to saws were the McCulloch SuperPro 125, olden days, preferably with a cart engine.
i like to have the tip of the saw against a heavy piece of wood so it doesnt move around as much, you go a little slower that way but it feels like i get the chain sharper
Good info that!💪💪👍
Thanks a lot!
Keep up the good videos!
You betcha!
Not mentioned but observed in this video is that you painted your bar tool high vis orange. This is a really great idea. Think Ill donthis with my flie handles as well.
Awesome real world video.. Funny how so many cookie guys on the internet only know how to file using a vise to hold the bar. These same guys have never worked in the bush and need to file when you have to. Great attitude man, stay safe and awesome 👍.. Suspenders rock btw
Thank you!
Great video. Thanks.
You bet
Thanks! 😉 👍
Nice suspenders too.
You bet, thanks!
One tips, rotete the chain the other way, mutch safer. I have also noticed that after the chain is half worn or so 5,2mm file (13/64) works better. Keep up the work!
Oh, I'll have to try that. I just file downward further when the tooth get smaller, kinda weakens the chain though. Thanks!
Another good video brother! I always get a kick out of seeing how other guys file, like you say everybody does it different. As long as it cuts smooth and you have to hold 'er back a bit it's cuttin right I think! I fall into the stump vise mode myself, like having it held down positive. I can remember the old Carlton File-O-Plate, used one for years, now it's pretty well implanted in my hands I guess. But it worked outstanding for taking the rakers down to the correct height after for the sharp tooth... thanks for putting these out, theyre good! Be safe
Thanks friend! I'm having fun with it.
Only issue I see is you have no backstop preventing your bar from moving all over . I always did my sharpening beside a stump so the bar doesn’t move. Makes a huge difference in how sharp you can get it.
That makes sense, often I can find a little bigger log and the Dawgs will grab it better and that helps too. Thanks.
I like to prop the bar up on a tree at about a 45, with the saw on the ground between my legs, that gives me good control, the chain doesn't move nearly as much, and when you got a really buggered up chain it allows you to dig the file into it if need be.
Great video!
Thank you
Love it !
good stuff thank you Sir
use a depth gauge after you file.. you can keep them as short as possible and still cut smooth. then every raker is set to each tooth. also when my chain starts wearing back i change file sizes and then again when its about gone. you can wear a chain to nothing this way and they still cut smooth and wow are they fast when worn down and sharp. you can get a lot more life out of a chain. they are getting expensive
You didn’t mention how your forcing the file to get the top plate to peal and be sharp. A sharp top plate and proper depth gauge setting is where it all happens.
Like your spendies man, followed
Thanks!
If I tuck my shirt in when I cut, I’ll have 3 handfuls of chips in an uncomfortable place.
The raker is the depth gauge for ea indivdual tooth so if a tooth is short the raker needs to be shortened an equivalent amount, equal strokes on the rakers usually only works about the first half of the chains life but as the teeth get worn to differeing lengths the rakers need to be tweaked to the individual tooth length to continue cutting straight. IMHO.
I check the size of tooth when I file and try to keep them all as close to the same as possible, even if it means I have to take a couple extra swipes on an already sharp tooth. I did have that problem when I first started filing (cutting circles) and that's what I was told then. Good point to bring up.
Like u style 😂👍👍👍👌
What size flat file size are you using ? Do you have a link
There are only two things I won't lend, my chainsaw or my wife, otherwise ask away I'm here to help. :)
I pack a ground chain in a crown royal bag that's tied to my gas jug, and pack the dulled one out the same way. Not to say I never square file in the brush, but seldom
Same just stick them in a little pouch with the dolmar. I’ve always found sharpening in the woods to be inefficient.
@@christilton350 agreed. And no matter how good you can chisel file, silvey can do it better lol
I only ever do the rakers by feel, I sharpen then do a quick cut in something to see how much it bites then I know how much I need to take off the rakers for what I'm felling. (Obviously another stroke for softwood)
Right on. That's what the pros taught me, "file for the wood you are in."
Same job my freand😂👌👍💪
I see you have what seems to be a light mount on your hat brim that I’m not familiar with. What light does that work with, and where can they be obtained? Thanks. That saw was cutting pretty fair after you sharpened it. Take care.
that's a GoPro mount :)
That's right, a Go Pro flat adhesive mount. I got curious and Googled it and amazon has some lights that will clip into that mount. What an idea.
0:39 haha. Never seen flag used for that. Nice!
Liked immediately on the suspenders. When "I'll just go back and get..." is NOT an option.
How often do you have to sharpen during the day , a good day .thanks for sharing. God bless yall real good.
If I cut for 6 hours straight, I'll usually touch it up once or twice, given that I don't stick it in the dirt. If that happens, I'll finish my current cut and file. It's not good to run a dull chain.
Thanks for hitting me back , I been cutting cords 40 years to heat my home southern maryland, mostly oak ,45 years ago I used to climb, not any more .be safe out thier.
How many times a day in avarege do you sharp your chain ? I do hand filling only for few strokes but i always bring spare chain with me if i hit a rock or dull chain badly i just change the chains and sharp them at home after work in a vice, don't really like to sharpen chain at the woods
A full day I'll usually just touch it up twice. Doesn't take long or many swipes at all if i don't let it get real dull. Yeah, a spare is good for hitting rocks, that takes me a while to clean out of a chain...
Love the suspenders! What sweatshirt do you have on?
Why would you file the rakers first? File the tooth first and then the raker. The raker tells the tooth how big of a bite to take. Set the tooth where it needs to be and then set the depth of the raker. Each tooth doesn’t need to be the same size or height nor do they need the same amount of swipes….the raker will set the tooth up to match the others. .025-.030” from the cutter tooth. Also, when you’re filing in the bush, put your bar tip against something so the stops moving and allows you to save some energy.
I file the rakers first just in case I accidentally hit the tooth with the flat file. Then i don't get so bummed when it happens becuase i need to sharpen it anyway. I don't have any instruments to measure all that so I just go by feel. Makes sense though. Thank you.
Thanks haha I am wearing a big bill hickory.
@@timberhillinc no guides or gauges here either. All mine is by sight and feel. Enjoy!
If you got one low tooth sitting between two higher ones, it ain’t biting nothing, no matter how low the raker. Love the video. Same way I was taught in a high production outfit.
Learn the square file young man!
Never suck dirt into your cut!
Bark is dirt!
The reason why your rakers are too high is because you’re wearing the chain out on the part that rides against the bar which damages the geometry of the chain!
Your Timberfaller with the clapped out saw?
Yes that chain will cut but it’s the bare basics.
Just because the gullit so cleaned out and your rakers are destroyed along with the chain .
But I got to say the suspenders make up for all good job .( You forgot the pad so you could carry your saw)
A 28 inch bar ?
Good job on the video !
And stay safe you’re doing one of the most dangerous jobs on the planet!
Thank you! I can fall timber but I'm actually a logger. Dirt is from notching stumps (tending hook). This is the rigging crews saw, my timber falling saw is a Husqvarna 3120 with a 28" bar (second growth) or a 36 and 42 for the big stuff. Thanks for everything, might have to experiment with the square filing
Suspenders are awesome 😎
Nice video my man. I use a stump vice, but it’s actually just more hours bent over. I might have to try your laying on the saw style sometime. See if it helps the back.
Thanks! I can definitely feel it too, helps to lay a sweatshirt down like a pillow between chest and saw if you shed a layer at some point in the day.
Laying on the saw is why I don't swap the filter on my 372 for a high top. Pokes you right in the belly.
@@7eis lose some weight and get rid of the belly and it won't bother you 😂😂😂
3 loops of sharp helps me wake up. I do carry a chain and raker file, but I never file before noon if I can help it
Yes that helps what about chain heats?
Fella you and I must be brothers from different mothers. You do exactly the same as myself. What would you do when cutting frozen hard wood ???
This farmer didn't know how to sharpen his chain. He bought spare chain by the case. I counted over 24 chains in the scrap bin. I was going take them and buy a chainsaw that took that chain. I wouldn't of had to buy a chain again.😅
Surprised how loose the chain when Tightenin the Bar. We was Taught to leave a Nickles Thickness of Gap. Though for 18-24" bar for Domestic Tree Service maintenance. Any feedback would be appreciated.
I adjust mine depending on what I am doing. If I am cutting a lot of brush or tiny things that could grab my chain and throw it, I tighten it to where it doesn't sag. I do this most often. Other times when I know I'm going to be in the wood and on the throttle 99% of the time, I will let it sag like you say, about a nickels width. I feel like the bar oil can get in and around better and help increase chain speed. Thanks for the comment.
It was too loose for sure, it must have recently gotten pinched, or just stretched from heavy use.
So on the rakers roll your wrist forward so it won't kick like a mule if you gotta plung cut 👍
Yeah, and I go at a little bit of a downward angle, so there is kind of a little ridge on the raker.
Sometimes if you put your hand behind the thing you’re trying to focus on so the majority of the frame is that distance the camera will refocus. 👍🏼
Oh cool, I'll try that out 👍
If you are using a go pro, which I believe you said you were, it is a fixed aperture camera so you cannot select focus.
@@crow0411 good info. 👍🏼
where du you buy the pants you are wearing?
My wife buys them for me online. Amazon I think. They are key double layered with the logger buttons. I buy them at my local saw shop. Prison Blues is a good brand too.
Good vid, did anyone teach you to use file handles and why. It dont have to be a fancy handle just a piece of wood will do. As long as the tang is covered
No, because they often just get lost. I got tired of poking my hand and bought some and have had several and I like using them, I just can't keep track of them. Nice to grip though for sure.
I run a stihl 461 and the chains I grab say to use a 13/64. I’ve had a lot of guys tell me to use a a 7/32 instead. Any advice ?
You'll get it sharper with the smaller file.
Where is this. .?
simple tap to the file helps every few links. knocks shavings off
Shouldn’t you do ur rakers after the tooth so I can judge how much needs to come off?
On a new chain I do, or if I rock it really bad I'll wait until after I file the teeth, but most times I know by the way it cuts the last time I filed whether or not I need to take some off.
if something is stupid and works, it is not stupid.
Nice video, subscribed…thought you were cleaning that limb out of the way so you could wax the tree behind you…that would of been a good ending….shouting…”closing time!”
I find if a raker is too tall you can tell as it looks almost polished smooth on top.
And actually, you shouldn't keep 2 or more files in the same pocket unless they're protected from one another. . A fast way to ruin files is to have them rubbing together.
Seems like if you tighten the chain tighter just to file it you could do without having to use the piece of wood. I'd rather have a more steady saw also. I put the bar/chain down on a piece of wood to hold it from moving so much. Makes it easier to make sure the cutter is straight.
I tighten it to where it should be before I file, not special for filing. Yes, the wobbly bar sucks, I don't usually fight it that much. The bark was part gone underneath me. Putting the bar by a piece of wood is a great idea, or a limb would be cool too.
What is the benefit of the skip tooth chain besides less to sharpen?
I feel like if you aren't running a big, badass, all powerful, power head, the full comp chains will grab worse and stall me out. Mainly though, I just don't like so many teeth to file. I'm not too sure though, everyone that I work around with 20+ years experience runs skip tooth, so I do too. Good question.
Thanks!
@@timberhillinc thanks fornyhe reply i know a few tree guys and they run them too. Great video BTW . Been a hand filer for a long time tried all the guides they waste too much time. When im throwing out ribbons i feel ive done pretty well. What i havent mastered is rake depth I use a guide for that but its never done in the woods . I like your input about the angle on the rake teeth. Ive been doing them flat for ever. Time to fix that.
Boss makes a dollar. I make a dime. That's why I file chain. On company time. 😁
thanks
Didnt need to watch the whole video.Youre doing the right way.And allways pack an extra chain.If you're falling and rock you're chain then you can loose have you're chain re-filing it.Good vid.I just didnt watch all of it because he is doing everything the way I was taught.
A message to Drinks and Fingers Food if you did that then you would be in a fist fight with whoever's saw you used to be in the rocks.What you said would be fighting words to any experienced faller
Thank you, and thanks for the advice.
@@timberhillinc You bet