Say your actual reading is 2800 but the SWG is reading 3000. As the display is decrementing the salt value, what if it doesn't go low enough to the salt level value you need to recalibrate to?
Make sure you control box is set to the correct t- value before trying this. They come set to 15 by default so if you have a 9 series cell this will not work. I learned this the hard way. Like others in the comments my testing strips/digital reader was showing 3700 and my box 2700. Once I changed my t-value to 9 it worked fine.
@@amyqlim it kind of looks more like a upside down F than a T www.poolwarehouse.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Hayward-AquaRite-Troubleshooting.pdf check page 4
@@PlainCheesePizza tq for the helpful link. When my system came on this morn, I went over all that were displayed & nothing with t-15. This is what it showed: salt level default, temp, voltage, amp, desired output, instant salt reading, AL-2, rl.113.
I'd replaced the board but never properly recalibrated. This was the correct way to do it and now my reading matches my tests. Away we go to automatic chlorination again!
I replaced my salt cell recently and need to recalibrate. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to work. I go through each step, but at the final step when the reading should adjust, it just stays put.
What do you do if the salinity number never falls to the number on the test strip. Our salt level reading 3400, the test strip says 3100, when I try to recalibrate the lowest the number goes is 3500. I don't have the option to set to 3100.
nope I don't believe this will be a good fit for that, in order for this to work you have to have a few hundred pounds of salt in your pool in order for it to convert the salt into chlorine.
Hi, my screen indicator said hot! I changed the cell and yesterday it showed 4900 and today 4600. How can I bring it back to a normal number? HELP!!!! Thanks!
I measured the salt level in my pool as 3300 ppm using AquaChek salt strips. Using the procedure in the video when I try to select the calibration level, I cannot select 3300 because the instantaneous reading starts at 2200 and goes down.
Hello can you help me my panel says HI salt and put a red light I did the calibration and still the light comes back on the reading says salt is 4500 but I took it a pool store and they told me the salt is 3100
If I selected 3600 while recalibrating and on the screen (after I clicked five times) it's still written -2900/-3000 even though it's on 3600, is there an issue with my turbo cell?
In case anyone is still watching this, I tried doing this many times with my system, but I can't make it work. I've tested my salt level with Taylor test kit and get 3000 ppm. The display on my Aquarite says 2700. This procedure has no effect on the display. It always ends up reading 2700. Moreover, I've been to another site, where he says that the system can't be calibrated. I thought I'd mention that in case anyone else tries this method and fails
We've been able to successfully recalibrate the systems. However, it's usually a temporary fix. There is usually something else wrong with the system that needs to be corrected. The cell selected in the control box may not match the cell on the plumbing. Another possibility is that the salt cell is beginning to fail.
@@Inyopools Thanks for your response. Try as I might, my system would not recalibrate and there are folks at other sites who claim it can't be done. I give up. I suspect that you're right about something else being wrong though. My cell is 3.5 years old, getting close to time for failure. I'll replace it when a bag of salt has no impact on the reading. I expect to get through this season
Same here. My salt is 3460 but panel reads 4100. This reset procedure works but still only goes down to false 4100 level. Board is good, cell is clean and set to T 15.
Same here. I bought a SeasonGear salt-3500 Salt Meter. It reads 3250. Had the water tested at the pool store, 3250. The Hayward unit says 1700. When “resetting” it it starts at 2700 and counts down. Pool store guy said I need a new unit. Not everything but the inline generator. Funny thing is they do not sell them. He sent me online for one. Update. We purchased a replacement cell for our unit. Installed it and all the readings were the same. I used this video to reset the new cell. After it worked exactly as the video said. So my conclusion is if your cell is ok this should work. If the cell is bad, we’ll only replacing it will work. However you might need to “reset” your new cell.
To change the unit from Metric Mode to US Standard , start by pressing the 'Diagnostics' button one time. Once showing the temperature in Celsius, move the switch up to 'Super Chlorinate' then back to 'Auto'. After 30 seconds the unit should settle back to the default reading.
My power light is off. All other lights are working. However, my salt level tests at 3600, but the dial says 2100, and is not decrementing. I tried all the info given so far. After the click, the check salt light comes on steadily. My cell is brand new.
Have you checked the control's diagnostic menu to ensure you selected the correct cell size? System readings will be skewed if you have the control set to the wrong cell size.
Hi. I tested my salt level using strips and I get 3400. My Aquarite gives me 2400. When I tried to recalibrate the system the reading never goes up to 3400 so I can't reset it correctly. I check my cell and voltage and Apms are ok. I even cleaned it. Any suggestions ?
Bingo! I tried twice with the % set to 70% and the PPM started descending at 2,000PPM even though my true levels are 3,000PPM. Then I saw your comment and changed it to 100% and it started descending at 3,200PPM, so I was able to recalibrate. Thanks!
The number that shows by default on my 30,000 gallon 12' round pool is 2400, but the - number is reading -2100. What does the 2400 mean? Is that the amount of salt my pool should take and the -2100 means it's off by 300 ppm? Thanks!
The 2100 and 2400 are likely the salinity level of your pool water, measured in parts per million (PPM.) The required salinity level for your system should be listed in the chlorinator's manual. The manual should also include a salt chart, this will help calculate how much salt you need to get to the desired PPM. - MGS
@@Inyopools hello can you please help me . I just changed my cell and I did the calibration but after o couple hours it says HI salt I took a water example and they told my my set it's good it's on 3100 can you help what else can I do too get oit solve also same reading they told me ist not doing clorine
When recalibrating following this method, it wont go lower than 3200, my pool is around 2700 but the unit wont display below 3200 does anyone know how i can get it to read below 3200?
My salt cell and low salt lights are solid. I have plenty of salt and my salt cell is producing chlorine. Recalibrating hasn't worked, because the Aquarite 900 isn't recognizing the correct amount of salt. I'm skeptical it's an issue with the cell, because it is producing chlorine. I'm stuck in a loop.
Can anyone answer why it is bad if the salt level reading is different then the actual salt level in the pool. Just because the aqua rite reads it wrong what does that impact other than a number on the screen. Why is it bad if it reads the wrong number.
If the salt calibration is way off, the system will stop generating chlorine. For example, the salt range for an Aquarite is 2700-3400ppm. If your actual salt level is 3000 but the system reads 3700, chlorine will stop being produced.
Last week panel read 3300, but professional testing said 2095, and recommended I add 79 lbs of salt, so I did. Now the panel reads 3800, and I can’t recalibrate using this method, it starts count down at 3900 and stops at 3800, after 30 seconds it exits diagnostic screen. Edit: system is 2 weeks old
I have a T-15 cell and the control box is set to t-15. The salt strips read between 2100-2500 but the control box displays 3800 ppm. Followed the instructions but the calibration only went down as far as 3700. I'm guessing the strips aren't great. The cell is relatively new and was replaced last year in 2021. Thoughts anyone?
My Aquarite is showing 3300 but true reading is 2700. Calibration doesn't allow you to pick a number lower than the instant salt reading (3300). Brand new cell. Generates chlorine fine. But I would like to calibrate the true salt levels. Any suggestions?
Turn on the Hayward Aqua Rite,the instant salt level on the Hayward Aqua Rite is 3900ppm then turn off and waiting 15 seconds and turn on, the instant salt level change to 2500ppm, then restart the Hayward Aqua Rite ,the salt level change to 3900 again.Always go back and forth 3900 ,2500;I don‘t know what's the problem.
First, make sure that the correct cell is selected within the control. Press the diagnostics button until you see a T number. That number should match the number on your cell. For example, a T-Cell-15 should read T15 on the display screen. If the cell numbers match, try cleaning the salt cell. If the problem persists, it's time to replace the cell.
Unplug it and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes and then while it is unplugged, press and hold the button for 30 second and plug it back. See if this will help you.
That could be a transformer or main PCB problem, or a fault in the circuit. I would start with this troubleshooting guide to diagnose it: images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-tsg-aqr159d.pdf
my salt starts at 6000 and only goes down to 4100 and then stops. Pool store says my salt is at 3600. Any ideas how to get it to drop down past -4100 so I can recalibrate?
I may as well just save this video to favorites. My device resets like every month and I have to dig up this video. Thanks again!
Say your actual reading is 2800 but the SWG is reading 3000. As the display is decrementing the salt value, what if it doesn't go low enough to the salt level value you need to recalibrate to?
This worked perfectly..!! Thank you guys
Make sure you control box is set to the correct t- value before trying this. They come set to 15 by default so if you have a 9 series cell this will not work. I learned this the hard way. Like others in the comments my testing strips/digital reader was showing 3700 and my box 2700. Once I changed my t-value to 9 it worked fine.
I scrolled all the options on my display & nothing that starts with T to select cell type.
@@amyqlim it kind of looks more like a upside down F than a T
www.poolwarehouse.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Hayward-AquaRite-Troubleshooting.pdf
check page 4
@@PlainCheesePizza tq for the helpful link. When my system came on this morn, I went over all that were displayed & nothing with t-15. This is what it showed: salt level default, temp, voltage, amp, desired output, instant salt reading, AL-2, rl.113.
Thank you! Had this issue and couldnt figure out why the salt reading was off so far. Google searched the manual and had it fixed in 5 mins!
This worked perfectly. Thanks
Great to hear! Thank you for the feedback.
Awesome. Thanks guys
The salt number starts the countdown at 2400 when my levels are at 3000?
And is that after recalibration? Have you checked he diagnostics menu to confirm you have the correct cell size selected?
Great clip
Well done video
Great stuff.
Thank you! 🖖
Great video! We use it every year to refresh our memory. LOL
I'd replaced the board but never properly recalibrated. This was the correct way to do it and now my reading matches my tests. Away we go to automatic chlorination again!
Yay! Thanks so much!
No problem!! Glad to help.
NICE! Saved to my How To Folder
Thanks!
I replaced my salt cell recently and need to recalibrate. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to work. I go through each step, but at the final step when the reading should adjust, it just stays put.
Same here.. any solutions?
Same here, did you figure it out?
THANK YOU1 You saved me from needing a $100 service call.
+olivia bicki Awesome!
What do you do if the salinity number never falls to the number on the test strip. Our salt level reading 3400, the test strip says 3100, when I try to recalibrate the lowest the number goes is 3500. I don't have the option to set to 3100.
Should be fine
I would recommend using Taylor salt water test kit, not a strip. Way more accurate.
Is it suitable for fish and duck ponds
nope I don't believe this will be a good fit for that, in order for this to work you have to have a few hundred pounds of salt in your pool in order for it to convert the salt into chlorine.
Thank you, It just fixed my salt reading!
That's great news, Benoit!
This worked for me. I had to do it three times, but it stopped the blinking lights.
are you telling me 3000 is not close enough to 2900? the strip interval is 500...
Hi, my screen indicator said hot!
I changed the cell and yesterday it showed 4900 and today 4600.
How can I bring it back to a normal number? HELP!!!!
Thanks!
I measured the salt level in my pool as 3300 ppm using AquaChek salt strips. Using the procedure in the video when I try to select the calibration level, I cannot select 3300 because the instantaneous reading starts at 2200 and goes down.
Same here.
Maybe you need to clean the cell
Yep I don't trust any of these calibrated measures. I've seen so many ways to do it. None ever work.
Change the cell type to T-9. This produced the correct levels when performing the calibration process.
Hello can you help me my panel says HI salt and put a red light I did the calibration and still the light comes back on the reading says salt is 4500 but I took it a pool store and they told me the salt is 3100
Then it's 100 ppm to high let it go it's ok just clean the cell out
If I selected 3600 while recalibrating and on the screen (after I clicked five times) it's still written -2900/-3000 even though it's on 3600, is there an issue with my turbo cell?
I'd like to know this answer too. Did you find out ?
Do you have instructions for how to do this with the latest all digital panel?
In case anyone is still watching this, I tried doing this many times with my system, but I can't make it work. I've tested my salt level with Taylor test kit and get 3000 ppm. The display on my Aquarite says 2700. This procedure has no effect on the display. It always ends up reading 2700. Moreover, I've been to another site, where he says that the system can't be calibrated. I thought I'd mention that in case anyone else tries this method and fails
same here it does not work.
We've been able to successfully recalibrate the systems. However, it's usually a temporary fix. There is usually something else wrong with the system that needs to be corrected. The cell selected in the control box may not match the cell on the plumbing. Another possibility is that the salt cell is beginning to fail.
@@Inyopools Thanks for your response. Try as I might, my system would not recalibrate and there are folks at other sites who claim it can't be done. I give up. I suspect that you're right about something else being wrong though. My cell is 3.5 years old, getting close to time for failure. I'll replace it when a bag of salt has no impact on the reading. I expect to get through this season
Same here. My salt is 3460 but panel reads 4100. This reset procedure works but still only goes down to false 4100 level. Board is good, cell is clean and set to T 15.
Same here. I bought a SeasonGear salt-3500 Salt Meter. It reads 3250. Had the water tested at the pool store, 3250. The Hayward unit says 1700. When “resetting” it it starts at 2700 and counts down. Pool store guy said I need a new unit. Not everything but the inline generator. Funny thing is they do not sell them. He sent me online for one.
Update. We purchased a replacement cell for our unit. Installed it and all the readings were the same. I used this video to reset the new cell. After it worked exactly as the video said. So my conclusion is if your cell is ok this should work. If the cell is bad, we’ll only replacing it will work. However you might need to “reset” your new cell.
What button push sequence do I need to do to get the salt reading back to 2900, 3000 etc,. right now it reads like 3.2
To change the unit from Metric Mode to US Standard , start by pressing the 'Diagnostics' button one time. Once showing the temperature in Celsius, move the switch up to 'Super Chlorinate' then back to 'Auto'. After 30 seconds the unit should settle back to the default reading.
My power light is off. All other lights are working. However, my salt level tests at 3600, but the dial says 2100, and is not decrementing. I tried all the info given so far. After the click, the check salt light comes on steadily. My cell is brand new.
Have you checked the control's diagnostic menu to ensure you selected the correct cell size? System readings will be skewed if you have the control set to the wrong cell size.
Hi. I tested my salt level using strips and I get 3400. My Aquarite gives me 2400. When I tried to recalibrate the system the reading never goes up to 3400 so I can't reset it correctly. I check my cell and voltage and Apms are ok. I even cleaned it. Any suggestions ?
Did you ever fix ?
Same issue, I can’t get the panel to match (and stay matched) the results to my salt test.
What if the cell is 6 days old? Could it be the motherboard?
You're supposed to turn the knob to 100% before doing this per hayward
Bingo!
I tried twice with the % set to 70% and the PPM started descending at 2,000PPM even though my true levels are 3,000PPM. Then I saw your comment and changed it to 100% and it started descending at 3,200PPM, so I was able to recalibrate.
Thanks!
I just clean it and my test reagent says 2,200 but the Baird still says 3,400 and I recalibrated it 3 times and nothing changed
The number that shows by default on my 30,000 gallon 12' round pool is 2400, but the - number is reading -2100. What does the 2400 mean? Is that the amount of salt my pool should take and the -2100 means it's off by 300 ppm? Thanks!
Sorry, meant 3,000 gallons
The 2100 and 2400 are likely the salinity level of your pool water, measured in parts per million (PPM.) The required salinity level for your system should be listed in the chlorinator's manual. The manual should also include a salt chart, this will help calculate how much salt you need to get to the desired PPM. - MGS
@@Inyopools hello can you please help me . I just changed my cell and I did the calibration but after o couple hours it says HI salt I took a water example and they told my my set it's good it's on 3100 can you help what else can I do too get oit solve also same reading they told me ist not doing clorine
When recalibrating following this method, it wont go lower than 3200, my pool is around 2700 but the unit wont display below 3200 does anyone know how i can get it to read below 3200?
My salt cell and low salt lights are solid. I have plenty of salt and my salt cell is producing chlorine. Recalibrating hasn't worked, because the Aquarite 900 isn't recognizing the correct amount of salt. I'm skeptical it's an issue with the cell, because it is producing chlorine. I'm stuck in a loop.
There is no step 5, but thanks for 1-4
What test strips did you use? Can I buy them online? my reading is -4400 is that even possible?
We used the Aquacheck Salt Test Strips. www.inyopools.com/Products/00700006032239.htm
When it displays -4400 it is really saying 4400 ppm.
@@Inyopools Thats really smart you guys designed it this way I wanna know how many calls you guys get everyday
I tried this several time and it doesn’t do anything. What am I doing wrong
Can anyone answer why it is bad if the salt level reading is different then the actual salt level in the pool. Just because the aqua rite reads it wrong what does that impact other than a number on the screen. Why is it bad if it reads the wrong number.
If the salt calibration is way off, the system will stop generating chlorine. For example, the salt range for an Aquarite is 2700-3400ppm. If your actual salt level is 3000 but the system reads 3700, chlorine will stop being produced.
Last week panel read 3300, but professional testing said 2095, and recommended I add 79 lbs of salt, so I did. Now the panel reads 3800, and I can’t recalibrate using this method, it starts count down at 3900 and stops at 3800, after 30 seconds it exits diagnostic screen.
Edit: system is 2 weeks old
I have a T-15 cell and the control box is set to t-15. The salt strips read between 2100-2500 but the control box displays 3800 ppm. Followed the instructions but the calibration only went down as far as 3700. I'm guessing the strips aren't great. The cell is relatively new and was replaced last year in 2021. Thoughts anyone?
Same issue... I have gone away from salt system ... Always in adequate reading when I test my pool. Biggest money pit is owning a pool
My Aquarite is showing 3300 but true reading is 2700. Calibration doesn't allow you to pick a number lower than the instant salt reading (3300). Brand new cell. Generates chlorine fine. But I would like to calibrate the true salt levels. Any suggestions?
Same here
Add salt till your around 3300
Turn on the Hayward Aqua Rite,the instant salt level on the Hayward Aqua Rite is 3900ppm then turn off and waiting 15 seconds and turn on, the instant salt level change to 2500ppm, then restart the Hayward Aqua Rite ,the salt level change to 3900 again.Always go back and forth 3900 ,2500;I don‘t know what's the problem.
help! my display reads 4100ppm but i measured with a meter and strips at 2500ppm. i recalibrated 2 times already. why is the reading so off?
First, make sure that the correct cell is selected within the control. Press the diagnostics button until you see a T number. That number should match the number on your cell. For example, a T-Cell-15 should read T15 on the display screen. If the cell numbers match, try cleaning the salt cell. If the problem persists, it's time to replace the cell.
Moved switch to off, then to on. Pushed button 5 times after click. Readout says -0 and stays there. What now?
I would take a sample of water to your local pool store to correct read out on salt. make sure you have some left dissolved.
Thanks, it did work for me. At least for now anyway.
My salt reading is 3800 but the panel only reads 2100 how do I make it reset and count up ? It only starts at 2100 and counts down /:
Unplug it and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes and then while it is unplugged, press and hold the button for 30 second and plug it back. See if this will help you.
This should be in the manual, but it isn't in mine.
Gary Reynolds 6(
Did not work me and i followed every step. The salt reading started counting down from 6600 and stopped at 6300, and never moved again.
Did you ever figure this out?
My control box shorts the gfi when I plug in the pump to it!
That could be a transformer or main PCB problem, or a fault in the circuit. I would start with this troubleshooting guide to diagnose it: images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-tsg-aqr159d.pdf
my salt starts at 6000 and only goes down to 4100 and then stops. Pool store says my salt is at 3600. Any ideas how to get it to drop down past -4100 so I can recalibrate?
I'm having this same issue right now. How did you resolve it?
Same here after an aftermarket replacement cell.
I have the same problem can you tell me how you get it fixed please ?
@@CoachSteveW hello did you get your problem solve ?
@@CoachSteveW hello God night I'm having the same problem I just changed my cell did you get it fix and can you tell me how you solve it ?
You mention the callibration requires "scroll down", yet you do NOT explain how to scroll down !!.
Should not hurt anything
Doesn’t work
Super fuckin helpful
Thank you very much.
Tourettes is a terrible affliction
This doesn't work. Just throws any number it wants. Waste of time
if recalibration doesn't work, you may need to replace the AquaRite Display Board (GLX-PCB-DSP) or the AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE)
not the most advanced company
Don’t matter what I do it shows -300 😅