Finally someone who knows the actual gap, .010 to .014. I don't trust the guys saying use a piece of paper to gap it. Great video. Thanks! BTW Paper is about .0025" so fold it as needed. I have plastic shim stock for this reason.
Finally someone explained the Coil. Thank and I will subscribe to your channel. It seems so easy just to say when yes is the answer. Some of these channel owners act like they are from Mars. So thank and I hate to say it but I hope you have a bunch of things to fix. Out in the desert..
Also a little rub with sand paper across the flywheel magnate to remove any rust will ensure a good spark. especially if the machine is left out doors. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks. Yep, its the first thing i check, if its not sparking then its the coil, if it is sparking then its vapor lock (usually do to running to hot) or a compression issue. (several other possibilities too). Thanks for Watching!!!
I just put one just like this on my twin Briggs. It’s a Chinese part and had no markings on it for position. I installed it just like the other one was but after watching your video I realized mine is upside down. Tomorrow is another day….lol.
My only experience with an aftermarket ignition coil was it lasted one use. I put it on my brothers Tecumseh Toro, worked great for 1 use, which was about 15 minutes. Found another new OEM coil and it's still going lol.
I have the same problem on my 89 Briggs 12.5 I/C opposing twin. It has the same part number for the coil as yours 394891. Buying the OEM coil and purchasing and installing the Magnetron ignition kit 394970 looks like a pain in the ass to assemble. Going the route you did in the best way of fixing the mower. It's funny mine won't start when hot, but if I pull a sparkplug out it will start right up. That told me the coil was to weak and is my problem. By the way can you post a link to the coil you purchased? Thanks
I hear ya! I'm pretty sure the same coil was used on all the opposed twins. I would but its been a while and I can't remember what seller i bought from, but it was off of ebay, just run that part number and it should come up. Thanks for Watching!!!
where can i get the right information on seating valve TDC gap on a 17,5 opposed twin cylinder L head engine Briggs Straton model 41a707 -2653-El Aim puting it back together stoped due to the valves piston 1 piston 2 This engine had water and rust in it but not real bad
I always set valve clearance on top dead center, on twin cylinders just make sure that cylinder is on tdc on compression stroke. Thanks for Watching!!!
I just purchased 2 of those Magnetos/Coils for $18.00 with Free Shipping off of eBay. I set my gap at .012. Seems to run better for me there..............a standard piece of notebook paper is on average .003 in thickness. (retired machinist, learned that day one for setting up my milling machines)
+Anthony Browning Yeah, it made a huge difference. It even starts better after sitting for a couple weeks, doesn't crank nearly as much! Thanks for Watching!!!
I got this 18.5 Briggs motor and mine is running for a few minutes till it gets good and hot then it shuts off and it won’t restart. Is it possible my coil is bad?
Likely. It's like the spark gets weaker and weaker as they heat up. If you shut it off and it won't restart right away, check your spark. It may be there but be very weak. If so, replace the ignition module/magnetron. (It's not only a coil; it's the ignition module and coil all in one package). I've just replaced both of mine with aftermarket modules, so it remains to be seen how long they last. If it restarts right away, but then you let it sit for ten minutes and then it won't restart, it is most likely a fuel related problem. (some sort of vapor lock or something). Personally, I think the leftover fuel in the carb gets so hot and seals off the carb or mucks with the fuel ratio. I have 2 of these, and I put fuel shutoffs on both of them. I almost always shut off the valve and let the bowl empty out before I turn it off at the key; seems to help.
My craftsman has a 19 hp twin cylinder engine that the motor will run and after 30 or 45 min it stops getting fire and cuts off.What could cause that?I was thinking the coil but I couldn't figure out how it does it some times and some times it don't.And sometimes I have to run the engine with the choke half way out then sometimes all the way out.What could case that also
Sounds like a bad coil, I would recommend getting a inline spark tester and run it with it installed and see what happens when it quits running, when you go to start it back and it doesn't light up then you know its the coil or other ignition problem, if its still sparking then it s a fuel delivery problem, if it has a fuel pump could be a weak pump or a vent could be partially clogged in the tank not letting it breath, which would explain the choke needing to be on at times. let me know what you find out. thanks for watching!!!
Or also, it could be vapor-locking, but they won't usually shut off, but when these engines vapor lock it usually only make for hard starting after you shut it off while cutting grass...
Thank you for the nice video........calm voice......no loud stupid annoying music and clowning around.. Very much appreciated !!!!!!!!!
Your welcome! Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Finally someone who knows the actual gap, .010 to .014. I don't trust the guys saying use a piece of paper to gap it. Great video. Thanks! BTW Paper is about .0025" so fold it as needed. I have plastic shim stock for this reason.
Finally someone explained the Coil.
Thank and I will subscribe to your channel.
It seems so easy just to say when yes is the answer.
Some of these channel owners act like they are from Mars.
So thank and I hate to say it but I hope you have a bunch of things to fix.
Out in the desert..
Also a little rub with sand paper across the flywheel magnate to remove any rust will ensure a good spark. especially if the machine is left out doors. Thanks for the videos.
+Yiorgos Kay That is true, especially if it has alot of rust. Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thankyou this was the exact video I needed for my engine 🤩😎👍
Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
Nice job. Never thought about hard hot starts. Mine does that too
Thanks. Yep, its the first thing i check, if its not sparking then its the coil, if it is sparking then its vapor lock (usually do to running to hot) or a compression issue. (several other possibilities too). Thanks for Watching!!!
I just put one just like this on my twin Briggs.
It’s a Chinese part and had no markings on it for position.
I installed it just like the other one was but after watching your video I realized mine is upside down.
Tomorrow is another day….lol.
Great repair man ! Thumbs up ..
+ShawnMrFixit Lee Appreciate that! Made a big difference on it! Thanks for Watching!!!
Happy New Year 2023
My only experience with an aftermarket ignition coil was it lasted one use. I put it on my brothers Tecumseh Toro, worked great for 1 use, which was about 15 minutes. Found another new OEM coil and it's still going lol.
+1972FordF150 I hear ya! Its hit or miss with aftermarket stuff, but its worth a shot I guess. Just never know though haha Thanks for Watching!!!
I have the same problem on my 89 Briggs 12.5 I/C opposing twin. It has the same part number for the coil as yours 394891. Buying the OEM coil and purchasing and installing the Magnetron ignition kit 394970 looks like a pain in the ass to assemble. Going the route you did in the best way of fixing the mower. It's funny mine won't start when hot, but if I pull a sparkplug out it will start right up. That told me the coil was to weak and is my problem. By the way can you post a link to the coil you purchased? Thanks
I hear ya! I'm pretty sure the same coil was used on all the opposed twins. I would but its been a while and I can't remember what seller i bought from, but it was off of ebay, just run that part number and it should come up. Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for the information hope to have it running soom
Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!
where can i get the right information on seating valve TDC gap on a 17,5 opposed twin cylinder L head engine Briggs Straton model 41a707 -2653-El Aim puting it back together stoped due to the valves piston 1 piston 2 This engine had water and rust in it but not real bad
I always set valve clearance on top dead center, on twin cylinders just make sure that cylinder is on tdc on compression stroke. Thanks for Watching!!!
That engine sounds great now.
+old64goat Yeah it made a huge difference, after sitting 2 weeks it started right up, not nearly as much cranking! Thanks for Watching!!!
I understand that the upgraded coil requires the points system needs disconnecting before fitting the new coil as the new one is electronic
I just purchased 2 of those Magnetos/Coils for $18.00 with Free Shipping off of eBay. I set my gap at .012. Seems to run better for me there..............a standard piece of notebook paper is on average .003 in thickness. (retired machinist, learned that day one for setting up my milling machines)
Thats a good deal there! I usually go for .010", that should work fine. I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
That starts a lot nicer now in comparison to before you started.
+Anthony Browning Yeah, it made a huge difference. It even starts better after sitting for a couple weeks, doesn't crank nearly as much! Thanks for Watching!!!
I got this 18.5 Briggs motor and mine is running for a few minutes till it gets good and hot then it shuts off and it won’t restart. Is it possible my coil is bad?
Yes, more than likely it is your coil, if it just shuts off like you turned the key off and won't start, def coil bad. Thanks for Watching!!!
Likely. It's like the spark gets weaker and weaker as they heat up. If you shut it off and it won't restart right away, check your spark. It may be there but be very weak. If so, replace the ignition module/magnetron. (It's not only a coil; it's the ignition module and coil all in one package). I've just replaced both of mine with aftermarket modules, so it remains to be seen how long they last.
If it restarts right away, but then you let it sit for ten minutes and then it won't restart, it is most likely a fuel related problem. (some sort of vapor lock or something). Personally, I think the leftover fuel in the carb gets so hot and seals off the carb or mucks with the fuel ratio. I have 2 of these, and I put fuel shutoffs on both of them. I almost always shut off the valve and let the bowl empty out before I turn it off at the key; seems to help.
My craftsman has a 19 hp twin cylinder engine that the motor will run and after 30 or 45 min it stops getting fire and cuts off.What could cause that?I was thinking the coil but I couldn't figure out how it does it some times and some times it don't.And sometimes I have to run the engine with the choke half way out then sometimes all the way out.What could case that also
Sounds like a bad coil, I would recommend getting a inline spark tester and run it with it installed and see what happens when it quits running, when you go to start it back and it doesn't light up then you know its the coil or other ignition problem, if its still sparking then it s a fuel delivery problem, if it has a fuel pump could be a weak pump or a vent could be partially clogged in the tank not letting it breath, which would explain the choke needing to be on at times. let me know what you find out. thanks for watching!!!
Or also, it could be vapor-locking, but they won't usually shut off, but when these engines vapor lock it usually only make for hard starting after you shut it off while cutting grass...
I've speculated (as have many others) that there is a vapor lock issue with these carbs. Can you imagine what's happening there?
So many guys showing how to replace the coil, but not one says what the gap is?
Do them motor have stators
Yes, if it has a starter (and not just a pull rope) it will have a stator under the flywheel to charge the battery back up. Thanks for Watching!!!
nice
+RobsPackanShine Thanks for Watching!!!