Great Stuff Brian. Thanks for taking the time to show this particular example. I learned this reading some Ron Francis wiring tech about 15 years ago. This proves that proper grounding tends to solve 90% of electrical issues. In this case, especially spark plug firing.
Excellent. This stuff is critical. Not just in the performance world but in daily drivers, tractors, heavy equipment, everything. Get the biggest battery you can fit in the thing, have a good alternator, make sure the wiring is adequate and every connection is clean and tight.
Brian, everything you put out is awesome. Many times I have chased problems to find it all came down to bad grounds. Thank you for taking the time to teach, I learn something every time. Shop is looking GREAT, I hope all else is well for you and your family. If you get a minute, visit Hillbilly Garage and see what we got going on. GOD Bless
That was a good video it's a lot of what I preach to younger folks and to people that well I try not to preach but you know talking to folks that don't seem to have that aspect though hot rods together or racing, The only thing I like to do different is I'd rather measure the voltage drop across a wire when it's in circuit you doing its job because then I get a better idea of what's going on I could calculate resistance at that point but I actually get to see the power drop
Great vid! Ground loops. You can technically have “too many” grounds if your not grounding properly because you DO create ground loops and back feeding. Technically or preferably, all grounds should lead directly to the battery ground. A compromise is using a clean bus, dirty bus, plus chassis ground. •Ignition box grounds should never ever be ground to the frame or block and should be a separate ground straight to the battery terminal using 0/0AWG 0.1 ohm wire no matter what. Your MSD power doesn’t share a power line with your starter or other nonsense! If it does, you wired your race car incorrectly! •You should have a Clean ground and power Bus, Dirty ground and power bus and a chassis ground. Ignition box and traction control is always ran directly to battery on both power and ground! All accessories are on the dirty buses. Your coil is an example of what goes on a clean bus. The dirty and clean ground buses always run separate all the way back to the battery. The dirty and clean power buses can split off a O/2 gauge power wire to their separate distribution points. The most overlooked thing isn’t ground, it’s EMI/EMF which people are just now beginning to recognize. Your ignition wires or pickup wires should be ran with dual shield (braided & foil) cables with a drain wire. That drain wire and shield should be soldered and grounded to a separate grounding plain. Ignition and accessory are on different grounds plains (dirty and clean bus) DIODES should be ran in all relays and solenoids to reduce voltage spikes. A Right front shut off or line lock crates massive spikes in voltage! A diode prevents these spikes! Even with dual shielded cable ignition wires always get ran separately from all other cables. A chassis ground is just that, a chassis ground it is NOT a grinding location for all devices or the ignition. Both heads should technically go straight to battery ground but can be ground to chassis. The engine is already grounded often to the Chassis so it’s best to run a head ground to the battery. The Proper way IS to go to the battery. The best spark plug / coil wire for performance, OHM rating, spark and to reduce any EMP/EMF noise on the ignition is: •Multi Fire plug wires. PERIOD They are 15 OHM per foot. Lowest resistance of any spark plug wire package on the market and heat resistant up to 1200°F. They are so good, you cannot use a timing light with them as the light cannot pick up the pulse on the wire. You must use a separate timing plug wire like a junky Msd, Scott or Moroso. This means less electromagnetic interference with your ignition! Plus it’s more power as has been proven multiple times on the dyno. They make 9hp more HP and is why creat engine guys or circle track guys with tight engine rules run them. If your timing light cannot pick up the wire your ignition will not be effected. But they a are $300+ set of wires. Also most non shielded wires should be ran ( at least in the engine bay) with good silicone sleeved wire. Everything gets dual walled heat-shrinking, weather pack or equivalent connectors and actual soldering. No T tapes, quick splice connectors, twist nuts, wago connectors or electrical tape.
If anyone thinks an msd box doesn’t run both pose and ground directly to the battery they never read the actual instructions or understand what they are doing.
Dirty bus cleaning with induction and capacitor? Or maybe a small battery on the end or 20% from the end? It’s like a coax not being grounded on both ends.
I agree with you that the ground in any circuit must be heavier guage than the "supply" side. Frequently you see an older vehicle with the glass headlight bulbs and one light is dim. 90% the ground is poor. In some cases both low beam and the high beam filaments are energized. The ground has to pass the current of both. So if you have 14ga wires to each filament, the ground should be 12ga. The cross sectional area of the 12ga is substantiailly larger than the 14ga, and thus has a vastly greater current capacity. The GM Quad 4 engine had the coil on plug ignition coils under the valve cover. This was a safety protocol as the coild output high enough power to kill. Old ignitions might put out 40k volts but very low current. These new ignitions output considerably higher current. You need the high voltage to initiate ionizing the air/fuel in the plug gap. With the low current ignitions the flame may not be ignited as well. The higher current ignition of these new ignitions light the fuel charge better, and generally have a longer duration spark.
You are certainly a better man than i. That shock would have brought a bout of tourettes if it was me. Good turorial! One other point you may have forgotten to cover is at 50 or 60 thousand volts ignition current will find a path to ground. Ive seen more ecus with bad coil or injector drivers from anodized parts not allowing a good ground.
Y’all flashing me back to the late -70’s, and attending some GM service schools. Got friendly with a GM engineer, they had some way kewl unofficial projects happening in some different buildings and back rooms. Anyway, drivelines was his particular forte’. He attributed a lot of driveline component failures to inadequate or nonexistent component bonding / grounding, for static and chassis electric, feeding back through bearings etc., ultimately eroding and damaging them, as well as static buildups discharging back through sensors, causing faulty signals, and sometimes damaging electronic components. Later in life, as a aircraft mechanic, this hit home, for the number of times faults led back to faulty airframe / component bonding / grounds, especially in composite stuff.
I manage a bunch of forklift dealerships. We had one particular model where techs would consistently install the wrong battery which required moving the negative cable from the engine to the chassis. They were lazy I guess. The result was always a melted throttle cable. Current would try to flow through it when the starter was engaged.
Too much anti seize on sparkplug threads and dirty copper indexing washers can partially insulate the plugs.. I think the copper 3M anti seize is a little more conductive than the nickel stuff. Using a thermal camera is a quick way to find wiring/ground issues especially for coils.
Yeah the old check for resistance in a pin point test has burned me in the past. I like how it’ll ask you is it less than five ohms, yeah. I do voltage drop test and find a way to make the circuit live, with a 1156 bulb on small wire and a head lamp on larger gauge wire.
Grounds and power were a large part of the Holley EFI class. The only thing I wish we did in that class was hands-on electrical diagnostics, as it was mostly theory.
Doing work for many good mechanics over the years, the subject of ground has been most interesting. Several times I’ve had a few in my shop discussing some gremlin they’re chasing around. They’ll share some obscure scenario they have faced at one point or another but eventually one of them will ask about checking ground. It’s almost like a slap in the face. At least that’s the way they will act. “Hell yes!!! I’ve checked my f’n grounds!! They’re all good.” The BS session generally ends at that point and they all go their separate ways. Every single time I have followed up and asked the mechanic what the solution to the problem was the answer has 💯 percent been “ground”. I’ll admit that from my neophyte perspective I lost a bit of confidence in their skills finding this out. How hard could it be to chase a bad ground? I found out restoring a KTM dirt bike for my grandson a few years ago. That powder coating and worse cerakote whipped my rear. Not isolating. Not fully understanding the true source of the ground. I ended up completely disassembling that bike once. Then taking the engine out even after that. I learned not to laugh at those men’s frustration over their ground issues. Especially under the simple circumstances I was fighting. Some of these new vehicles have more grounds in them than can be known or counted. Now there’s the CANbus systems and pulse width modulation to consider. Wire lengths to adhere to and I’m sure more details to comprehend than can be imagined.
I really enjoyed this video I have some nice grounds on my big block street car f but like you said the size of the wire also matters so I have to put I know at least 2 of my grounds should be bigger. Thank ÿou.
Nice vid I always ask the punters to look at the primary circuit ( its a loop like all circuits) and show me the secondary circuit.. There is a use for powered test light as it can show up the resistance when troubleshooting and or std one with one end connected to power. Multimeter can fool you at times as very little load
Pretty cool. Resistance tests are often misleading - voltage drop and testing with the circuit under a load is the way to go. A single strand of wire will also light some test lights, so the circuit needs to be loaded to use them too. A headlight makes a pretty good test light. Like the Borg said - resistance is futile. I never understood why some people pay more attention to the positive side of the battery.
Pretty simple really. I am sure people make these mistakes. Good demonstration. Gotta get the basics right or everything else you do is a waste of time
Brian, not trying to be disagreeable. I realize you are dealing with race cars and they do not have turn signals, radios, electric seats, power windows and heated windows. Automobiles need a body ground unlike race cars. The ground strap from the battery on my 56 Chevy bolted directly behind it to the firewall. For a street car, many people think that the frame is the thing to ground to while they let the body grounds rust up. I feel that the body ground is overlooked quite often with street vehicles. I have seen many a tri-five Chevy not have the ground wires that GM installed from the factory. Of course back then, cars were dealing with 30 amp charging systems unlike today. This video is the first one I have ever seen up to demonstrate the actual spark difference between an MSD box and factory type ignition. Makes me wonder how my 265 with points ignition would turn 7200 rpm consistently back when. Thanks Brian.
Hey Brian, Tim here, yea, i am ANAL about gnds......the more, the larger, the better.......cant tell you how many times, pretty powder coat, or even paint, was the cause.....i dont care about ur powder coat, if it DOESNT FUNCTION its a high $ sofa piece.....i've done same, grind that shi% off, (to the owners dismay)......then when it starts and runs AWESOME.....the owner dont mind the grind anymore.......its simple....STOP PAINTING/POWDERCOATING where a ground mite be.....use a bolt and washer, that can be removed, and connect the terminal/eyelet to that fresh, bare metal......yep!!....TY SIR!!!.....BOY, u really go outa ur way to teach the uninformed.....i watched the whole thing, KNOWING i knew all about it, i wanted to see what u said....SPOT ON MY BROTHER!!!......GLAD to see u rollin again......look fwd to next vids!!....PEACE to you sir!!
Awesome video brother!! I would love to here about the differences. I had planned on running a ground from the Battery>frame>block. And block>battery then ground each head to the firewall where my original engine was grounded. Then also the wire harness grounds. That was before I seen you video. I was going to get a ground strap kit. Would battery cables be sufficient? They have the ones with the eyelets on each end.
That's very cool demonstration and i got to see you get shocked 2 times lol i had to say that lol but anyways since drag racing uses 44 amp but in circle track can we run 44 amp and will that not work because i see a 12 and 20 amp from msd and i do knwo sprint car guys run 12 amp but was curious is 20 and 44 can work
Is there a problem using a larger ground wire than required? It's a different application but on the welding side of thing for large structural/vessels, we always ran minimum 4/0 ground cables especially when using voltage sensing processes like FCAW and SAW
There is resistance all the way back to the neg post the clamp has resistance but it should be minimal. The load should take up most the voltage on the pos side. A there should be minimal voltage on the neg side. If you have only the wire back to ground you should have say. 0.30 multi bits back to neg. Post if a switch is on the ground side. You cold see a little higher voltage on the grd side. But if you do a drop down test on the ground side of the switch. You should see around 0.30 muli volts.
You may teach for easy of understanding OL : Open line = you are not measuring anything, there is no continuity or no continuation of any resistance, voltage or amperage dus a broken wire/terminal, lose conectór.
Yes first rule electricity takes path of least resistance. As you found that may be you. I used to use my hands until HEI came out. It definitely could kill and MSD type is higher. It only takes 1/4 amp to kill. I have been lucky. I don't push it anymore.
If I’ve got a problem on the ground side I well put a jumper lead on the positive side and connect it to my red meter lead and the ground lead to the chassis ground if I get over .250 mili volts I’ve got a ground problem at the chassis. I’ll also if that proves good I’ll take a 12 volt light bulb. Run a jumper from the battery ground to the-meter grd lead put the red meter on the ground side of the light turn key and check the reading if I get high mili reading the problem is from that spot to chassis grd an back to bat ground. An do same on pos side.
@@rogerpatton-zr7qd it's okay I was only demonstrating what people do and that's the wrong way to do it I'm going to make another one to show you the right way to do it
Always ground at the neg of battery an run a jump wire to the meter. Don’t use a body ground you are only testing the circuit from the body ground to load. A your not checking for the problem back to the batt neg. From the chassis’s ground to the battery you’re not checking to the end of the circuit. Always run jump from battery ground to meter. That way you are checking from the post battery post back to battery ground
I said multi volt drop test I meant mili volt drop test. If I got say 0.700 mili volts I can switch to volt dc an see how much voltage I’m losing at that test point
There is resistance all the way back to the neg post the clamp has resistance but it should be minimal. The load should take up most the voltage on the pos side. A there should be minimal voltage on the neg side. If you have only the wire back to ground you should have say. 0.30 multi bits back to neg. Post if a switch is on the ground side. You cold see a little higher voltage on the grd side. But if you do a drop down test on the ground side of the switch. You should see around 0.30 muli volts.
Great Stuff Brian. Thanks for taking the time to show this particular example. I learned this reading some Ron Francis wiring tech about 15 years ago. This proves that proper grounding tends to solve 90% of electrical issues. In this case, especially spark plug firing.
Great presentation. I’ve been a power lineman for 30 years and you’re spot on your electrical theory. Fine job..
This man is the real deal folks, this is the type of shop one would want to work for.
Great video Brian,when troubleshooting I've always assumed that if it's firing that's not my problem, thanks for educating me
I'm giving a thumbs up before I even watch because of how many times I've seen this done wrong. Great topic.
Excellent. This stuff is critical. Not just in the performance world but in daily drivers, tractors, heavy equipment, everything. Get the biggest battery you can fit in the thing, have a good alternator, make sure the wiring is adequate and every connection is clean and tight.
Excellent Tip, Brian! Great demonstration. 🏁🏁
I'M going to watch this several times to get the full grasp of it.
Brian, everything you put out is awesome. Many times I have chased problems to find it all came down to bad grounds. Thank you for taking the time to teach, I learn something every time. Shop is looking GREAT, I hope all else is well for you and your family. If you get a minute, visit Hillbilly Garage and see what we got going on. GOD Bless
Great stuff Brian!!!! Keep up the good work!! Problems like that costs people a lot of money. Thank you for all the great videos!
I look forward to ur vids Brian,love to learn more about my passion,thanks brother
Glad to see you posting again. I know it's been a rough pull...
Also, thanks for using a lapel mic. WAY more consistent audio.
Salter....back at it! Good to see you sir. Now to the video
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to teach us what you have learned over the years!
Visual examples (lessons) increase comprehention. That was a good one.
That was a good video it's a lot of what I preach to younger folks and to people that well I try not to preach but you know talking to folks that don't seem to have that aspect though hot rods together or racing, The only thing I like to do different is I'd rather measure the voltage drop across a wire when it's in circuit you doing its job because then I get a better idea of what's going on I could calculate resistance at that point but I actually get to see the power drop
Awesome tips brian thank you for sharing,much appreciated sir
I love the way you explain things that even polite way to say it is common guy art on the slow side
Great vid! Ground loops. You can technically have “too many” grounds if your not grounding properly because you DO create ground loops and back feeding. Technically or preferably, all grounds should lead directly to the battery ground. A compromise is using a clean bus, dirty bus, plus chassis ground.
•Ignition box grounds should never ever be ground to the frame or block and should be a separate ground straight to the battery terminal using 0/0AWG 0.1 ohm wire no matter what. Your MSD power doesn’t share a power line with your starter or other nonsense! If it does, you wired your race car incorrectly!
•You should have a Clean ground and power Bus, Dirty ground and power bus and a chassis ground. Ignition box and traction control is always ran directly to battery on both power and ground! All accessories are on the dirty buses. Your coil is an example of what goes on a clean bus. The dirty and clean ground buses always run separate all the way back to the battery. The dirty and clean power buses can split off a O/2 gauge power wire to their separate distribution points.
The most overlooked thing isn’t ground, it’s EMI/EMF which people are just now beginning to recognize. Your ignition wires or pickup wires should be ran with dual shield (braided & foil) cables with a drain wire. That drain wire and shield should be soldered and grounded to a separate grounding plain. Ignition and accessory are on different grounds plains (dirty and clean bus) DIODES should be ran in all relays and solenoids to reduce voltage spikes. A Right front shut off or line lock crates massive spikes in voltage! A diode prevents these spikes! Even with dual shielded cable ignition wires always get ran separately from all other cables.
A chassis ground is just that, a chassis ground it is NOT a grinding location for all devices or the ignition. Both heads should technically go straight to battery ground but can be ground to chassis. The engine is already grounded often to the Chassis so it’s best to run a head ground to the battery. The Proper way IS to go to the battery.
The best spark plug / coil wire for performance, OHM rating, spark and to reduce any EMP/EMF noise on the ignition is:
•Multi Fire plug wires. PERIOD
They are 15 OHM per foot.
Lowest resistance of any spark plug wire package on the market and heat resistant up to 1200°F. They are so good, you cannot use a timing light with them as the light cannot pick up the pulse on the wire. You must use a separate timing plug wire like a junky Msd, Scott or Moroso. This means less electromagnetic interference with your ignition! Plus it’s more power as has been proven multiple times on the dyno. They make 9hp more HP and is why creat engine guys or circle track guys with tight engine rules run them. If your timing light cannot pick up the wire your ignition will not be effected. But they a are $300+ set of wires.
Also most non shielded wires should be ran ( at least in the engine bay) with good silicone sleeved wire.
Everything gets dual walled heat-shrinking, weather pack or equivalent connectors and actual soldering. No T tapes, quick splice connectors, twist nuts, wago connectors or electrical tape.
If anyone thinks an msd box doesn’t run both pose and ground directly to the battery they never read the actual instructions or understand what they are doing.
Dirty bus cleaning with induction and capacitor? Or maybe a small battery on the end or 20% from the end? It’s like a coax not being grounded on both ends.
Braided strap on the ground bus
Ground the radiator well too. It can help with keeping corrosion down I've read.
Great video, would love the indepth version.
I agree with you that the ground in any circuit must be heavier guage than the "supply" side. Frequently you see an older vehicle with the glass headlight bulbs and one light is dim. 90% the ground is poor. In some cases both low beam and the high beam filaments are energized. The ground has to pass the current of both. So if you have 14ga wires to each filament, the ground should be 12ga. The cross sectional area of the 12ga is substantiailly larger than the 14ga, and thus has a vastly greater current capacity.
The GM Quad 4 engine had the coil on plug ignition coils under the valve cover. This was a safety protocol as the coild output high enough power to kill.
Old ignitions might put out 40k volts but very low current. These new ignitions output considerably higher current. You need the high voltage to initiate ionizing the air/fuel in the plug gap. With the low current ignitions the flame may not be ignited as well. The higher current ignition of these new ignitions light the fuel charge better, and generally have a longer duration spark.
You are certainly a better man than i. That shock would have brought a bout of tourettes if it was me. Good turorial! One other point you may have forgotten to cover is at 50 or 60 thousand volts ignition current will find a path to ground. Ive seen more ecus with bad coil or injector drivers from anodized parts not allowing a good ground.
Been welding 24 years. Grounding is crucial
Awesome video
Y’all flashing me back to the late -70’s, and attending some GM service schools. Got friendly with a GM engineer, they had some way kewl unofficial projects happening in some different buildings and back rooms. Anyway, drivelines was his particular forte’. He attributed a lot of driveline component failures to inadequate or nonexistent component bonding / grounding, for static and chassis electric, feeding back through bearings etc., ultimately eroding and damaging them, as well as static buildups discharging back through sensors, causing faulty signals, and sometimes damaging electronic components.
Later in life, as a aircraft mechanic, this hit home, for the number of times faults led back to faulty airframe / component bonding / grounds, especially in composite stuff.
I manage a bunch of forklift dealerships. We had one particular model where techs would consistently install the wrong battery which required moving the negative cable from the engine to the chassis. They were lazy I guess. The result was always a melted throttle cable. Current would try to flow through it when the starter was engaged.
Too much anti seize on sparkplug threads and dirty copper indexing washers can partially insulate the plugs.. I think the copper 3M anti seize is a little more conductive than the nickel stuff. Using a thermal camera is a quick way to find wiring/ground issues especially for coils.
Great topic, most of the electronic gremlins are ground related problems.
Yeah the old check for resistance in a pin point test has burned me in the past. I like how it’ll ask you is it less than five ohms, yeah. I do voltage drop test and find a way to make the circuit live, with a 1156 bulb on small wire and a head lamp on larger gauge wire.
Great advice!!
Grounds and power were a large part of the Holley EFI class. The only thing I wish we did in that class was hands-on electrical diagnostics, as it was mostly theory.
Good stuff man thanks once again. I heard that shock too hate when that happens😂
Doing work for many good mechanics over the years, the subject of ground has been most interesting.
Several times I’ve had a few in my shop discussing some gremlin they’re chasing around. They’ll share some obscure scenario they have faced at one point or another but eventually one of them will ask about checking ground.
It’s almost like a slap in the face. At least that’s the way they will act. “Hell yes!!! I’ve checked my f’n grounds!! They’re all good.”
The BS session generally ends at that point and they all go their separate ways.
Every single time I have followed up and asked the mechanic what the solution to the problem was the answer has 💯 percent been “ground”.
I’ll admit that from my neophyte perspective I lost a bit of confidence in their skills finding this out. How hard could it be to chase a bad ground?
I found out restoring a KTM dirt bike for my grandson a few years ago.
That powder coating and worse cerakote whipped my rear. Not isolating. Not fully understanding the true source of the ground.
I ended up completely disassembling that bike once. Then taking the engine out even after that.
I learned not to laugh at those men’s frustration over their ground issues. Especially under the simple circumstances I was fighting. Some of these new vehicles have more grounds in them than can be known or counted.
Now there’s the CANbus systems and pulse width modulation to consider. Wire lengths to adhere to and I’m sure more details to comprehend than can be imagined.
I really enjoyed this video I have some nice grounds on my big block street car f but like you said the size of the wire also matters so I have to put I know at least 2 of my grounds should be bigger. Thank ÿou.
I was bit once. I know. I will never forget what power the msd has. Wow.
I think it's gonna shock you!......Yes, it will!
Nice vid
I always ask the punters to look at the primary circuit ( its a loop like all circuits) and show me the secondary circuit..
There is a use for powered test light as it can show up the resistance when troubleshooting and or std one with one end connected to power.
Multimeter can fool you at times as very little load
Pretty cool.
Resistance tests are often misleading - voltage drop and testing with the circuit under a load is the way to go. A single strand of wire will also light some test lights, so the circuit needs to be loaded to use them too. A headlight makes a pretty good test light.
Like the Borg said - resistance is futile.
I never understood why some people pay more attention to the positive side of the battery.
Pretty simple really. I am sure people make these mistakes. Good demonstration. Gotta get the basics right or everything else you do is a waste of time
powder coat is like plastic a great insulator
The zap was worth the wait 😂.
Thanks for turning down the volume on the "music"
Brian, not trying to be disagreeable. I realize you are dealing with race cars and they do not have turn signals, radios, electric seats, power windows and heated windows. Automobiles need a body ground unlike race cars. The ground strap from the battery on my 56 Chevy bolted directly behind it to the firewall. For a street car, many people think that the frame is the thing to ground to while they let the body grounds rust up. I feel that the body ground is overlooked quite often with street vehicles. I have seen many a tri-five Chevy not have the ground wires that GM installed from the factory. Of course back then, cars were dealing with 30 amp charging systems unlike today. This video is the first one I have ever seen up to demonstrate the actual spark difference between an MSD box and factory type ignition. Makes me wonder how my 265 with points ignition would turn 7200 rpm consistently back when. Thanks Brian.
Praise the lord God is good. Hope you are putting him first Mr. Salter. Loving God loving him.
Hey Brian,
Tim here, yea, i am ANAL about gnds......the more, the larger, the better.......cant tell you how many times, pretty powder coat, or even paint, was the cause.....i dont care about ur powder coat, if it DOESNT FUNCTION its a high $ sofa piece.....i've done same, grind that shi% off, (to the owners dismay)......then when it starts and runs AWESOME.....the owner dont mind the grind anymore.......its simple....STOP PAINTING/POWDERCOATING where a ground mite be.....use a bolt and washer, that can be removed, and connect the terminal/eyelet to that fresh, bare metal......yep!!....TY SIR!!!.....BOY, u really go outa ur way to teach the uninformed.....i watched the whole thing, KNOWING i knew all about it, i wanted to see what u said....SPOT ON MY BROTHER!!!......GLAD to see u rollin again......look fwd to next vids!!....PEACE to you sir!!
I can t believe that plug fired with that foam between the head and ground😮
Shocking!
This I gotta see!! What else can we do to Mr. Salter when he thinks the coast is clear??
Revolutions per minute described as RPM. Any number of revs in one minute.
Thanks good video
👍👍👍
Awesome video brother!! I would love to here about the differences. I had planned on running a ground from the Battery>frame>block. And block>battery then ground each head to the firewall where my original engine was grounded. Then also the wire harness grounds. That was before I seen you video. I was going to get a ground strap kit. Would battery cables be sufficient? They have the ones with the eyelets on each end.
good show
That's very cool demonstration and i got to see you get shocked 2 times lol i had to say that lol but anyways since drag racing uses 44 amp but in circle track can we run 44 amp and will that not work because i see a 12 and 20 amp from msd and i do knwo sprint car guys run 12 amp but was curious is 20 and 44 can work
Is there a problem using a larger ground wire than required? It's a different application but on the welding side of thing for large structural/vessels, we always ran minimum 4/0 ground cables especially when using voltage sensing processes like FCAW and SAW
@@MichaelScudder72 I would think it could only help
There is resistance all the way back to the neg post the clamp has resistance but it should be minimal. The load should take up most the voltage on the pos side. A there should be minimal voltage on the neg side. If you have only the wire back to ground you should have say. 0.30 multi bits back to neg. Post if a switch is on the ground side. You cold see a little higher voltage on the grd side. But if you do a drop down test on the ground side of the switch. You should see around 0.30 muli volts.
You may teach for easy of understanding OL : Open line = you are not measuring anything, there is no continuity or no continuation of any resistance, voltage or amperage dus a broken wire/terminal, lose conectór.
I appreciate the videos. Sure make a video more information
Brian, are you familiar with floating ground systems?
It takes one amp to push one volt through one ohm of resistance is what I have been told....
Yes first rule electricity takes path of least resistance. As you found that may be you. I used to use my hands until HEI came out. It definitely could kill and MSD type is higher. It only takes 1/4 amp to kill. I have been lucky. I don't push it anymore.
If I’ve got a problem on the ground side I well put a jumper lead on the positive side and connect it to my red meter lead and the ground lead to the chassis ground if I get over .250 mili volts I’ve got a ground problem at the chassis. I’ll also if that proves good I’ll take a 12 volt light bulb. Run a jumper from the battery ground to the-meter grd lead put the red meter on the ground side of the light turn key and check the reading if I get high mili reading the problem is from that spot to chassis grd an back to bat ground. An do same on pos side.
I did not quite explain that correctly
@@rogerpatton-zr7qd it's okay I was only demonstrating what people do and that's the wrong way to do it I'm going to make another one to show you the right way to do it
I never hardly use ohms I do drop down test. On muli volts
You changed the ground to the battery....
@@vwbsean no I just made it directly from the head to the plate on the floor
Explain please
Always ground at the neg of battery an run a jump wire to the meter. Don’t use a body ground you are only testing the circuit from the body ground to load. A your not checking for the problem back to the batt neg. From the chassis’s ground to the battery you’re not checking to the end of the circuit. Always run jump from battery ground to meter. That way you are checking from the post battery post back to battery ground
I said multi volt drop test I meant mili volt drop test. If I got say 0.700 mili volts I can switch to volt dc an see how much voltage I’m losing at that test point
I’ve made that mistake of touching the leads…it’s so easy to do ….
I preach ground an be sure you power is correct
Ground will rob voltage to the load causing the load to act up.
There is resistance all the way back to the neg post the clamp has resistance but it should be minimal. The load should take up most the voltage on the pos side. A there should be minimal voltage on the neg side. If you have only the wire back to ground you should have say. 0.30 multi bits back to neg. Post if a switch is on the ground side. You cold see a little higher voltage on the grd side. But if you do a drop down test on the ground side of the switch. You should see around 0.30 muli volts.