Hey Brian, you're a mind reader!, I was going to comment on your last video about my concerns with all the extra oil in the crankcase after the cam oiler mod and about adding a baffle/plate below the cam to redirect the oil away from the crankshaft. Please do a follow up video on your plate mod. Thank you!
Salter....that's bad ass! I've found excessive oil clearances in wasted flat tappet blocks for years. I've presented that as the root cause and been told to jump in a lake. I've mentioned it to several here on UA-cam over the years and still no one would listen. I've stuck firmly to this belief and I appreciate you bringing this to light. Hell, I don't know that my machine shop even agrees with me on this. Ha....thanks.
Absolutely! This is the reason to mic everything so you know and fix what you can fix easily first. The reason my older flat tappet engines run looser bearings and 40 or 50 weight oils. You have to set the clearances to match the oil for all components to last.
@@teagreen2220 just to be clear. I'm referring to the lifter bores having excessive oil clearance, and that being the root cause for the lifter failure. Having the excessive clearance the lifter won't rotate. No weight of any oil can correct for that.
@@arturozarate1752 that’s what I’m trying to say, sorry I’m not so clear. On building a used Chevy 350, if lifter bores are already micing high I would not usually worry as long as all else is okay. Then I will choose bearing clearance to be slightly over stock with high volume oil pump and run thicker oil. All is good and that engine can scoot for a good while after that.
Yep learned my lesson 30 years ago. Had a Cam Dymactics 230 cam in a 327. # 6 cylinder no rotation on the lifters intake and exhaust. No taper on the lobes! Didn't realize back then that you had to check your camshaft. But I know now! Thank you for the great videos.
@@GrandPitoVic yeah I just asked him how many he was going to do per day He could do as many as eight which means I could be at the very end of the second day or the very start of the third day who knows
I have talked to quite a few folks in the aircooled VW, Porsche, Corvair & air cooled aircraft engines that use primarily mushroom tappets & they do not seem to experience the flat tappet & camshaft issues that the v8/v6 american style engines seem to be uhh enjoying?
Seem to remember flat tappet lifter faces being ground to, 32 inch radius. I’ve wondered how many instances of flat tappet failures are due to lifter bore geometry, for not being perpendicular to the cam centerline? This leaves me thinking that I’d be highly selective of the shop doing the lifter bore bushing, to ensure they have the capability to locate / correct the lifter bores, rather then reboring to the already existing problem.
In my time doing this, rarely did we see flat tappet failures. Now and then sure but we then started checking each cam for taper as well as tappet rotation. We had an old grinder for the really old engines where the lifters were always reground. We would use that grinder to flatten the crown a Degree or half, so it would grab the cam taper. It was all bore controlled. From loose bores or oval. -- So, same thing but a different time. Basically, it was just taking a little more time from experiencing a problem and remembering the different engines and their issues. Another thing I always thought was an oiling issue with the Chevrolet engines not mentioned here is this. The lifters and camshaft just under the rear counterweight, operate with less oil it seems due to the masking at the rear of the block. IMO.
What keeps the catch pans in. do you epoxy them in?. An old friend of mine showed me a trick to check lifters, around 1972, he said install the cam first with the gear, put in the lifters with WD-40 turn it relealitively fast by hand and see if they spin. By god they sure do- at least a quarter of a turn every revolution and if they don`t its usually the bore, burrs, or someone turned the block upside down and marred the bore with a screw driver banging them out. I`m sure you`ve seen stuff like that too.
When going from .842 to .875 or .902 lifters, does this change the duration the valves see or does this require a different cam grind to compensate for the extra diameter of the lifter? Keep up the awesome videos. The way you explain just works for me. Definitely helping me and others build our confidence in engine preparation.
@@brianwolgamot7076 yes it does change the duration it makes it a little bit more every time you go up in diameter size of the lifter and unless you were trying to stay with a particular size of camshaft it's not that drastic of a change unless you were worried about piston to valve clearance. But it adds about 3° duration sometimes more sometimes less
Was at my local machine shop yesterday and they showed me a cam that failed on the dyno after the break in oil change, again. Flat tappet because of racing restrictions. They won't put a flat tappet cam in any motor they build anymore unless the racing class requires it. One lobe on the cam and lifter. The rest were perfect. Was a Comp cam. Do not know which one. They did state they used break in springs on this engine during break in.
Comp Cams seem to be the most unreliable flat tappet cams to run. IMHO this is because they want to sell you the heat treatment for the cam and possibly for the lifters as well? I wonder how many of their cans fail after the extra costs are paid?🤔😳🤯
Excellent video. Learned a lot. Though I am a roller guy, this shows a lot. That being said, I'm sure the squirters for a roller setup probably should be on the smaller side due to the roller being very efficient. I have also seen roller lifters that have oil holes near the roller shaft to provide lubrication to the wheel. Not sure how effective these are. NOTE: I have also noticed that lifters have different wear patterns on them depending which bank they are on. With the cam turning CW on a Chevy, as the cam approaches the right bank it pushes the bottom of the lifter towards the center of the block (valley), while the cam approaches the left side lifter forcing the bottom of that lifter towards the outside of the block. So the lifter holes over time will be worn out different from one bank to another.
@@SalterRacingEngines You are doing an awesome job... This is the type of information people don't know they are missing. And, I am sure they appreciate it, especially before an expensive build. Every time you or Powell Cams puts out a video, I'm wondering if I should bug my machinist in the middle of him building my block. LOL! 😁
Mainly oiled from the con rod, so they get different amounts, the right side gets the most, thrown directly at it where the two surfaces meet, cam & lifter, the left gets a ricochet.
You're great, thanks for the video. Do you know how lifter bores are done at the factory? Boring bars? My toolmaker friend says the only true round holes are done with boring bars. No reamers or end mills, etc. Boring bars.
@@bd5058 I'm going to be going over that in a later video but I have used a couple different materials with great success. One is light gauge steel and the other is aluminum. To be honest I like working with the steel better because it gives me a little more flexibility as to how I can attach it. I know that sounds crazy but it's really easy to tack weld a couple flanges on there so I can screw it into the block. Also you can get your steel pretty thin so you don't have any problems with clearances with the camshaft. I know a lot of guys use aluminum and that's fine too but now that I think about it I think I prefer thin gauge steel over anything else. All it has to do is act as an umbrella and be sturdy enough to stay there some guys will epoxy them in and I have done that as well and also I have bolted them in. It's not really something we purchase it's pretty much made in house so you can get creative with it. Just absolutely be positive before you drill any holes and tap that you're not hitting an oil galley. And if you look in the block you will easily see that one side is more easy to bolt to than the other and usually you can also tell where the oil galleys are. I will use like a 6-32 button head or an 8-32 button head screw high strength loctite. But nothing wrong with using a regular bolt as well.
The Line2Line abrative self clearancing coating also works great not only on pistons but also on lifters to get the proper clearance. Not sure the cost but simply honing the bores round to the largest hole so they're all the same and using coated lifters might be lesser expensive than boring and honing to the next size up or boring even bigger for bushings, the cost of the bushings and the cost for installing the bushings? Worth looking into anyway.🤔😎👍
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 No need to look into it I do it all the time I knew I left something out. But the only thing is coatings do not fix a crooked bore Yeah if it's just slightly worn it's a great way to correct it I knew I forgot something
@@SalterRacingEngines Also they way you're checking the crown isn't necessarily correct. You're assuming that the top of the lifter is perpendicular to the diameter of the lifter. It very well may be but the top of the lifter isn't critical so it really doesn't need to be. Perhaps use a precision machinist V-block with the lifter clamped in it to check the crown? This would be a more accurate way to check it. I'm not a professional engine machinist but I have been an industrial Tool and Die Maker/machinist for over 35 years. Working with engine tolerances are childs play to me compared to the tolerances I have had to work to.😎👍
What about cam and lifter placement. Shouldn’t the cam on flat tappet cam, be offset to the lifter to help with spinning it? That was taught to me back in the day, but I’ve never built an engine since then, lol. I’ve put a bunch together but not build one. And all are modern junk. My instructor had us check the rear plug vs cam placement. Didn’t know how important it was though.
Great stuff. ! Where do you get .012 air bleed ? Also how are you holding drain baffles in place under cam? Thanks for sharing would have stopped lobe /lifter wear if I would have done this !!!
@@ThomasPullen-p8c I make a right angle table and weld it to the plate and then I screw it in the block away from the oil galleys Holley airbleeds you can order online Just Google it and it will pop up Sometimes you can just order blanks and drill them yourself
An engine builder said, I van build a 632 that makes about 1200 for 28.000 . If you want a small motor to make similar power, get out your wallet and open it wide. If you don't have cubic inches rpm is whats left a is expensive.
So I'm a person who like to do things that requires minimal effort, so why don't you just use a #77 drill bit and save the time and effort of tapping and installing the air bleeds? I'm a electrician by trade and we have drill/tap combo bits that will make what you are doing a lot faster if you insist on installing the jets
He taps and drills for the insert jets do that it can be changed to a different size- but more importantly to get the oil to squirt in a straight line. People used to just drill, and many still do. But it doesn’t always spray straight through the hole. And it is very easy to break those small of a drill bit. Part of the reason he tells people drill, relax, drill, relax, repeat is because drilling cast iron you have micro pockets of weak/ harder spots. On a drill press you can easily control straightness so you concentrate on pressing equally. Using hand drill is more room for error. So you hit a harder spot and a tiny bit of angle on the long skinny drill bit and they break. Now- removing that micro broken bit becomes a nightmare. As to the tap/bit- yes I use them too. But remember doing a back plane is only 3/16” thickest, usually 1/16” for most. And the metal is hot rolled steel not cast. So doing cast it’s easier to break the bit. So yes it’s easier but a pilot hole still helps. Having used the tap/bit and broken several, you & I learned the feel of whats ok. Others here try to learn it in their engine and it could be frustrating. By time they even consider this everyone has used a tap by hand and learned the feel of it so many times they won’t break it. Just my 2c. For him doing a ton of engines- absolutely a time saver long term. CNC machines do it all the time without failure. Using a drill press and a spring for constant tension of the right amount could save him a descent amount of time.
As someone else said, I was wondering about the windage, too, so thanks for covering that. Now I am wondering how you attach the plates? You didn't really say.
@@SalterRacingEngines Unless you can pump the oil before start up there's no oil on the cam lobes prior to start up. So there's a few seconds before oil gets on the cam lobes.
Hi, you said you can run ford hydraulic lifters in a 1st gen small block chevy, will the ford lifters work in the stock lifter bores or do the bores have to be machined to accept the ford lifters, and thats just using any ford hydraulic lifter correct? Thank you, Steve from California.
@@StevenBowron yes have them honed out to the correct diameter They spread the spring load better they also add a little duration and speed to valve events
@@suntzu5836 it took me a second to figure out what you're talking about but now I think you're talking about the two playing cards on the air cleaner My buddy took that photo and I thought it looked pretty cool that was his car number And we had just won the monster energy drink tour de-madness when we took that photo
THANK YOU ALL KINDLY FOR SUBSCRIBING I REALLY APPRECIATE IT
I WILL BE EXPLAINING HOW TO INSTALL THE PLATES AT A LATER VIDEO
If college was this informative and interesting, everyone would do their homework, study, and get straight A's!
I really like the cam tunnel plates. What a great idea
Hey Brian, you're a mind reader!, I was going to comment on your last video about my concerns with all the extra oil in the crankcase after the cam oiler mod and about adding a baffle/plate below the cam to redirect the oil away from the crankshaft. Please do a follow up video on your plate mod. Thank you!
Salter....that's bad ass! I've found excessive oil clearances in wasted flat tappet blocks for years. I've presented that as the root cause and been told to jump in a lake.
I've mentioned it to several here on UA-cam over the years and still no one would listen. I've stuck firmly to this belief and I appreciate you bringing this to light. Hell, I don't know that my machine shop even agrees with me on this. Ha....thanks.
Absolutely! This is the reason to mic everything so you know and fix what you can fix easily first. The reason my older flat tappet engines run looser bearings and 40 or 50 weight oils. You have to set the clearances to match the oil for all components to last.
@@teagreen2220 just to be clear. I'm referring to the lifter bores having excessive oil clearance, and that being the root cause for the lifter failure. Having the excessive clearance the lifter won't rotate.
No weight of any oil can correct for that.
@@teagreen2220 and oil weight is chosen according to bearing clearance. Not the other way around, respectfully.
@@arturozarate1752 that’s what I’m trying to say, sorry I’m not so clear. On building a used Chevy 350, if lifter bores are already micing high I would not usually worry as long as all else is okay. Then I will choose bearing clearance to be slightly over stock with high volume oil pump and run thicker oil. All is good and that engine can scoot for a good while after that.
Sorry, I think I'll have to say jump too.
The most straight forward explination of cam taper, lifter crown and lifter bore dynamics I have seen on UA-cam.
Not the same since we lost Harold at Ultradyne
Superb
Dude that flexing pushrod story blows my mind😮
love it wish there was somebody in the Harley
world they had real video's like this.
Huh nice
Great tip(s) and information.... 🏁🏁 You are a great instructor also.
Another great video, thanks bro. I always take something away from your vids
Let’s get him a mic y’all , great content. ,
GREAT info brother!!! Thank you!!!!
Thank you from DownUnder
Love some Thunder from down under!
Nice bit of INFO, BRIAN. 👍 Measure everything
Very Good info.
Thankyou
We used to buy flat solod lifters with a hole drilled in the bottom we had no issues
@@davidreed6070 yeah I showed those in my first video we use those to they're great.
Yep learned my lesson 30 years ago. Had a Cam Dymactics 230 cam in a 327. # 6 cylinder no rotation on the lifters intake and exhaust. No taper on the lobes! Didn't realize back then that you had to check your camshaft. But I know now! Thank you for the great videos.
Keep the information coming im loving it!
Thanks Brian, valuable information, enjoying your channel.
This is excellent man, really appreciate it.
Mr. Salter broke more cams and lifters!! I see how you are...
Good content, Mr. Salter. Keep up the good work work and be safe out there.
Folks, this man is the real deal! Semper Fidelis
Awesome information. Too many people just throw stuff together without checking it to make sure it's right.
Excellent video, thank you, 👍👍👍
I really appreciate your teaching
Top notch! Sharing with my Chevy friends.
Can you show us the cam tunnel plates you use out of block please? Love your videos to btw.
@@jasonbernhardt1613 yes I plan on it soon video got too long
Cool deal!!! Your cam is #12 to run. Eric just dropped his video with the run order.
@@GrandPitoVic yeah I just asked him how many he was going to do per day
He could do as many as eight which means I could be at the very end of the second day or the very start of the third day who knows
@SalterRacingEngines OH that's cool. Wow 8 cams!!!. That's bustin hump!!! Lol.
Another killer video !!! cool man
I have talked to quite a few folks in the aircooled VW, Porsche, Corvair & air cooled aircraft engines that use primarily mushroom tappets & they do not seem to experience the flat tappet & camshaft issues that the v8/v6 american style engines seem to be uhh enjoying?
Great video..thanks
Seem to remember flat tappet lifter faces being ground to, 32 inch radius.
I’ve wondered how many instances of flat tappet failures are due to lifter bore geometry, for not being perpendicular to the cam centerline?
This leaves me thinking that I’d be highly selective of the shop doing the lifter bore bushing, to ensure they have the capability to locate / correct the lifter bores, rather then reboring to the already existing problem.
@@georgedreisch2662 yes exactly
In my time doing this, rarely did we see flat tappet failures. Now and then sure but we then started checking each cam for taper as well as tappet rotation. We had an old grinder for the really old engines where the lifters were always reground.
We would use that grinder to flatten the crown a Degree or half, so it would grab the cam taper. It was all bore controlled. From loose bores or oval. -- So, same thing but a different time.
Basically, it was just taking a little more time from experiencing a problem and remembering the different engines and their issues.
Another thing I always thought was an oiling issue with the Chevrolet engines not mentioned here is this. The lifters and camshaft just under the rear counterweight, operate with less oil it seems due to the masking at the rear of the block. IMO.
@@JohnH.-qp6fb thank you that's great feedback
What keeps the catch pans in. do you epoxy them in?. An old friend of mine showed me a trick to check lifters, around 1972, he said install the cam first with the gear, put in the lifters with WD-40 turn it relealitively fast by hand and see if they spin. By god they sure do- at least a quarter of a turn every revolution and if they don`t its usually the bore, burrs, or someone turned the block upside down and marred the bore with a screw driver banging them out. I`m sure you`ve seen stuff like that too.
When going from .842 to .875 or .902 lifters, does this change the duration the valves see or does this require a different cam grind to compensate for the extra diameter of the lifter?
Keep up the awesome videos. The way you explain just works for me. Definitely helping me and others build our confidence in engine preparation.
@@brianwolgamot7076 yes it does change the duration it makes it a little bit more every time you go up in diameter size of the lifter and unless you were trying to stay with a particular size of camshaft it's not that drastic of a change unless you were worried about piston to valve clearance. But it adds about 3° duration sometimes more sometimes less
Was at my local machine shop yesterday and they showed me a cam that failed on the dyno after the break in oil change, again. Flat tappet because of racing restrictions. They won't put a flat tappet cam in any motor they build anymore unless the racing class requires it. One lobe on the cam and lifter. The rest were perfect. Was a Comp cam. Do not know which one. They did state they used break in springs on this engine during break in.
Comp Cams seem to be the most unreliable flat tappet cams to run. IMHO this is because they want to sell you the heat treatment for the cam and possibly for the lifters as well? I wonder how many of their cans fail after the extra costs are paid?🤔😳🤯
Excellent video. Learned a lot. Though I am a roller guy, this shows a lot. That being said, I'm sure the squirters for a roller setup probably should be on the smaller side due to the roller being very efficient. I have also seen roller lifters that have oil holes near the roller shaft to provide lubrication to the wheel. Not sure how effective these are.
NOTE: I have also noticed that lifters have different wear patterns on them depending which bank they are on. With the cam turning CW on a Chevy, as the cam approaches the right bank it pushes the bottom of the lifter towards the center of the block (valley), while the cam approaches the left side lifter forcing the bottom of that lifter towards the outside of the block. So the lifter holes over time will be worn out different from one bank to another.
@@atlasintegrations4114 yes very true
@@SalterRacingEngines You are doing an awesome job... This is the type of information people don't know they are missing. And, I am sure they appreciate it, especially before an expensive build. Every time you or Powell Cams puts out a video, I'm wondering if I should bug my machinist in the middle of him building my block. LOL! 😁
Mainly oiled from the con rod, so they get different amounts, the right side gets the most, thrown directly at it where the two surfaces meet, cam & lifter, the left gets a ricochet.
goog job,,,interested in gear driven dry-sump,,(dont like belts) for the street,,,posible drag n drive set-up
You're great, thanks for the video.
Do you know how lifter bores are done at the factory? Boring bars?
My toolmaker friend says the only true round holes are done with boring bars. No reamers or end mills, etc. Boring bars.
Love engine mod videos!
What kind of material do you use for cam windage tray and how do you attach it?
@@bd5058 I'm going to be going over that in a later video but I have used a couple different materials with great success. One is light gauge steel and the other is aluminum. To be honest I like working with the steel better because it gives me a little more flexibility as to how I can attach it. I know that sounds crazy but it's really easy to tack weld a couple flanges on there so I can screw it into the block. Also you can get your steel pretty thin so you don't have any problems with clearances with the camshaft. I know a lot of guys use aluminum and that's fine too but now that I think about it I think I prefer thin gauge steel over anything else. All it has to do is act as an umbrella and be sturdy enough to stay there some guys will epoxy them in and I have done that as well and also I have bolted them in. It's not really something we purchase it's pretty much made in house so you can get creative with it. Just absolutely be positive before you drill any holes and tap that you're not hitting an oil galley. And if you look in the block you will easily see that one side is more easy to bolt to than the other and usually you can also tell where the oil galleys are. I will use like a 6-32 button head or an 8-32 button head screw high strength loctite. But nothing wrong with using a regular bolt as well.
The Line2Line abrative self clearancing coating also works great not only on pistons but also on lifters to get the proper clearance. Not sure the cost but simply honing the bores round to the largest hole so they're all the same and using coated lifters might be lesser expensive than boring and honing to the next size up or boring even bigger for bushings, the cost of the bushings and the cost for installing the bushings? Worth looking into anyway.🤔😎👍
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 No need to look into it I do it all the time I knew I left something out. But the only thing is coatings do not fix a crooked bore
Yeah if it's just slightly worn it's a great way to correct it
I knew I forgot something
@@SalterRacingEngines
Also they way you're checking the crown isn't necessarily correct. You're assuming that the top of the lifter is perpendicular to the diameter of the lifter. It very well may be but the top of the lifter isn't critical so it really doesn't need to be. Perhaps use a precision machinist V-block with the lifter clamped in it to check the crown? This would be a more accurate way to check it.
I'm not a professional engine machinist but I have been an industrial Tool and Die Maker/machinist for over 35 years. Working with engine tolerances are childs play to me compared to the tolerances I have had to work to.😎👍
Thank you Brian,,why not use direct oil lifter. 12 thou hole in center of lifter 200 bucks
What about cam and lifter placement. Shouldn’t the cam on flat tappet cam, be offset to the lifter to help with spinning it? That was taught to me back in the day, but I’ve never built an engine since then, lol. I’ve put a bunch together but not build one. And all are modern junk. My instructor had us check the rear plug vs cam placement. Didn’t know how important it was though.
Is the plate epoxied in or how do you keep it in place?
@@bcbloc02 I will the right angle table and screw it into the block and then epoxy it on three sides
Very cool with cam tunnel. Is it epoxied in or screwed in?
@@JeremyFrazelle-or1mt you can do either one
Great stuff. ! Where do you get .012 air bleed ? Also how are you holding drain baffles in place under cam? Thanks for sharing would have stopped lobe /lifter wear if I would have done this !!!
@@ThomasPullen-p8c I make a right angle table and weld it to the plate and then I screw it in the block away from the oil galleys
Holley airbleeds you can order online
Just Google it and it will pop up
Sometimes you can just order blanks and drill them yourself
Thanks !! Have great day !!
An engine builder said, I van build a 632 that makes about 1200 for 28.000 . If you want a small motor to make similar power, get out your wallet and open it wide. If you don't have cubic inches rpm is whats left a is expensive.
Unless you use boost.🤔😎👍
So I'm a person who like to do things that requires minimal effort, so why don't you just use a #77 drill bit and save the time and effort of tapping and installing the air bleeds? I'm a electrician by trade and we have drill/tap combo bits that will make what you are doing a lot faster if you insist on installing the jets
He taps and drills for the insert jets do that it can be changed to a different size- but more importantly to get the oil to squirt in a straight line. People used to just drill, and many still do. But it doesn’t always spray straight through the hole. And it is very easy to break those small of a drill bit.
Part of the reason he tells people drill, relax, drill, relax, repeat is because drilling cast iron you have micro pockets of weak/ harder spots. On a drill press you can easily control straightness so you concentrate on pressing equally. Using hand drill is more room for error. So you hit a harder spot and a tiny bit of angle on the long skinny drill bit and they break. Now- removing that micro broken bit becomes a nightmare.
As to the tap/bit- yes I use them too. But remember doing a back plane is only 3/16” thickest, usually 1/16” for most. And the metal is hot rolled steel not cast. So doing cast it’s easier to break the bit.
So yes it’s easier but a pilot hole still helps.
Having used the tap/bit and broken several, you & I learned the feel of whats ok. Others here try to learn it in their engine and it could be frustrating. By time they even consider this everyone has used a tap by hand and learned the feel of it so many times they won’t break it.
Just my 2c.
For him doing a ton of engines- absolutely a time saver long term. CNC machines do it all the time without failure. Using a drill press and a spring for constant tension of the right amount could save him a descent amount of time.
I don’t understand how that plate is mounted in the cam housing how do you fix it in place an what is the air gap for drainage
How are you attaching plates?
@@promodracer2191 I make a little right angle tab and screw it into the block making sure not to go into an oil galley
As someone else said, I was wondering about the windage, too, so thanks for covering that. Now I am wondering how you attach the plates? You didn't really say.
@@rocketsurgeon11 right below your comment I pinned the comment that tells everybody I will be going over that later
@@SalterRacingEngines thank you, sir! I scrolled a bit, but I guess I didn't see that reply earlier.
Doesn't the cam lobe get enough oil splash from the rods?
@@joe-hp4nk not in my opinion
@@SalterRacingEngines Unless you can pump the oil before start up there's no oil on the cam lobes prior to start up. So there's a few seconds before oil gets on the cam lobes.
Hi, you said you can run ford hydraulic lifters in a 1st gen small block chevy, will the ford lifters work in the stock lifter bores or do the bores have to be machined to accept the ford lifters, and thats just using any ford hydraulic lifter correct? Thank you, Steve from California.
@@StevenBowron yes have them honed out to the correct diameter
They spread the spring load better they also add a little duration and speed to valve events
Do these procedures work for all engine manufacturers factory or aftermarket
@@tedrobbins166 yes
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
i dont see in your drawing that the lifter is offset to the lobe? the offset also helps turn the lifter
I love your 10000 rpm comments foolish people
10,000 rpm. cam only? Heads
O’come on , 😅 low budget 10,000 rpm
Brian, what's the significance of the "Double Deuces?"
@@suntzu5836 it took me a second to figure out what you're talking about but now I think you're talking about the two playing cards on the air cleaner
My buddy took that photo and I thought it looked pretty cool that was his car number
And we had just won the monster energy drink tour de-madness when we took that photo