Fix Any Bushing for ONLY $30!?
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
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I'm Sold On Window Weld Bushing Upgrade/ Repair on older cars. Much easier than dropping the exhaust, cross-brace and more just to replace.
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This works. I noticed something strange about my bushings when I had my car on the lift today and suspect the previous owner used this method to get more time out of his failing bushings. I've owned the car for 2 years now and have put over 40,000km on it and have not had a problem with the suspension yet.
I have thought of this idea with bushings as well, the time and cost of repairing for standard parts is crazy, I wanted to see if there was a video of this idea actually working and I found yours. Thank you for the confirmation and saving me time and money. I'm glad we are promoting ways of helping eachother not get robbed by cost in labor and materials.
me too, I had this in mind, I was thinking of silicone but thanks God I found this video and I'm doing it as soon as tomorrow, thanks for this video
How has it held up for you?
I'll add that if the bushing has sagged, best to jack the transmission or other load up to get the bushing centered at the factory position before filling. But only helps if you can hold it there until the sealant cures. In some cases, you might stuff a piece of wood (and tie it) to hold the position, to allow driving the car while it hardens. I used polyurethane caulk to fill my 1984 M-B 300D motor mounts. While it became stiff and firmly bonded to the factory rubber, it put excessive load on the sheet-metal below the motor mount which cracked it apart. Instead, I found better parts (made in Turkey) since the cheap ones quickly sag (made in India).
damn, alot of india is made in rubber. Good to know india rubber is bad.
@@salami99 Motor mount rubber is likely man-made, not natural rubber. Indian and Chinese companies can make quality parts. Indeed, they will have to begin doing better if they don't want to continue being tagged as "questionable quality". Japanese products were considered of poor quality in the early 1960's, but they turned that image around by companies like Toyota and Honda selling excellent products, such as the early 1970's motorcycles which were much more reliable than H-D, and bicycles of equal quality to Italian and French (and especially the heavy U.S. ones) which filled the 1970's "ten-speed" demand.
Yes I plan on doing that with my control arm bushings
Have a 2018 Honda Odyssey. The control arm clunks even over smooth pavement. Inreally dont feel like paying for the repair or doing it myself. If this lasts 50-100k miles, im all for it. 😂
Did it work? I’m about to try it on my control bushings on a sienna. It’s a long job so I’m just going to test this out since I’ve always wondered if it works lol
@daiLo_2jz No. Haven't had the chance yet and I still need to get the product.
You will need to park it for a couple days so the stuff can cure.
This works when done properly. A quick spray with brake clean is not cleaning all that road grime and such you can still clearly see. This will effect the overall performance of this and the longevity of the installation. Take a brush, wire or plastic, tooth brush works even, and scrub it with a bit of dawn and water mixture. Or alternately, you can get that engine cleaner from Gunk. Dawn tends to be a bit cheaper in the long run, you get a lot more for your buck. After you scrub it up a good bit knocking all that grime loose, THEN blast it with some brake clean, or 90-99% IPA (isopropyl alcohol). Then you can install your window weld or other tubed poly product, and expect it to stick much better. Watch someone install a window or windshield. They clean and prime the location before applying the polyurethane.
for those who want to know the yellow poly bushes have a shore-a rating of 60, purple is 70 and black is around 90 so this would be softer than normal poly bushes but still harder than default rubber.
As a career tech... it is not recommended in the field... obviously. But for personal reasons, im going to try it. And of ot truly works, i will recommend it. Cheeres
Any updates from the field? :)
@@nataliegrn17 as a lifelong and career tech, its highly recommended, for CERTAIN cases. If you can remove the component and replace the bushing the proper way. That is always advisable. This stuff will be a pain in the rear to remove down the road if you plan on fixing it the right way later on. However, there are some cases, like older, or heavily rusted cars, that trying to remove the subframe, can total the car. Broken bolts inside unibody rails and such.. on a "400k mile car" is just not economical to deal with for a suspension noise that does not make the car undrivable.. There are those cars that still want to keep going, just need that extra push for their last stretch before meeting the scrap yard. Those are the cars this is best for. Or for people who are too broke to fix it right. This can save a car from the scrapper for those people.. and for an extended period of time at that.
@@crisnmaryfam7344thanks for sharing your thoughts, suggestions, and experience!
Would it be ok use something like wax paper to keep it from touching the metal. Allowing ez removal when fixing the right way down the line. Makes sense to me
As someone who installed windshields for living back-in-the-day, I have a few tips on working with urethane.
1 Use a decent caulking gun, as mentioned. Better to get one with a higher thrust ratio, like 12:1 or 18:1. It makes the trigger pull easier and gives you more control.
2 Heating the urethane helps quite a bit. Set the tubes on your defrost vents and run the defrost on a higher temp. setting. It lowers the viscosity making it easier to control and lightens the trigger pull. The tubes will be hot, so take precaution. I used to wrap it in a glove, load the gun and keep the glove over the gun at the tube.
3 Urethane sticks to EVERTHING. It gets on EVERYTHING. Cleanable with solvent BEFORE it cures. It's pretty permanent after that. Masking tape and rubber gloves. It's easier than trying to clean up later. Porous material = nightmare. We used latex or nitrile gloves and wiped any excess on the back of the glove as you go. Change out the gloves as needed.
4 Once opened it doesn't stay viable for long. This is why new tubes are sealed at each end. Plan on using the tube as much as needed in a relatively short time period as it doesn't store well. Higher temperatures and humidity will accelerate the curing.
5 If the tube is ok but the tip is clogged with urethane, you can unthread it and push the solid piece out the back and reinstall the tip. If you try to pull it out the front it can rip the tip off the tube. This stuff is pretty tough.
I hope that helps anyone about to give this a go.
Even if You put a threaded screw down the tip right size and length it will cure and harden past it?
How long does it take to cure?
@Herb Goldstein Depends on the type of urethane, temperature, humidity, and thickness of the urethane being applied. Higher temperatures and humidity speed up cure times (I know the humidity thing seems counter-intuitive).
For example, I once cut out a windshield from a new car that was damaged in shipment, and the urethane wasn't cured in the 3 days since it was manufactured. It was winter in a cold climate. It's probably best to consult the urethane company/website. They often have a table of conditions and cure times. Back then safe 'drive times' were about an hour in good conditions despite not being fully cured.
I hope some of that helps
As an ex glazier and aluminium joiner? You are 100 percent spot on 👍
Mix it with corn flour. @@herbgoldstein5
from 3m's website, they say that their 1 part poly urethane window weld is moisture activated. I think the issue a lot of people run into with using these is not enough surface prep and also using them in a dry environment and applying a super thick amount. i am pretty sure the break cleaner causes some cracking and perofrating of the underlying bushing material which might let air and moisture sneak in to the center of the bushing and is a key to getting these thicker bushings to cure propperly. not just "surface prep" but instead is some secret sauce in the whole process. I am thinking i will have to try this and am debating first filling up the bushing to about half way and then putting a bot of boiling water or something under the bushing and finishing after it has about 5-10 minutes to "activate" the center of the bushing. appearently 3m works a lot better than locktight but its like 3-4x the price! ugh
Did u end up trying it out? How did it come out? Has it still held up?
@@selwyn13 i believe it ended up being a tierod and strut tower/shock problem (2002 civic ex). it had all the classic symptoms of a bad motor/trans mount/ball joint, and none of the symptoms of failing socks/tie rod. i think i finally figured it out because going over bumps above ~45mph while in a shallow turn to one way minimized/got rid of the vibrations. i think it was a combination of an oval'ed ball joint on the tierod and bad struts with normal shocks. really bizzar. finally broke down and did the job right after the front left engine mount bolt broke on my car and the engine fell. a few months before the hard to get bracket for the same mount had snapped in half (manual trans part that doesnt have a part number and is very difficult to source). i had replaced the mount already with the bracket but the vibrations were just causing too much problems. that bracket is supposted to have 2 motor mount bolts but 1 of them had broken the engine mounting bracket around the threads and there was no way to replace it without doing the timing belt, which I was waiting to do.
good old car, drove it from 280k miles to 380k. tried to teach my girlfriend how to drive stick thinking i had gotten the car reliable enough and she grenaded the transmission after like 4 attempts to shift. guessing the synchros were going? i took the whole trans appart and found the clutch fork had actually snapped one of its teeth and was slipping off the thrust bearing and not disengaging the clutch. got everything back togeather and could not get the clutch to pressurized. replaced the slave and master, bled it like crazy day after day. replaced the slave again and master again, broke a lot of sized bolts off and it still wasnt even pressurizing. guessing there was a leak somewhere in the old line from moving it so much/vibrations. had lost so much time (in med school) i finally just threw money at the problem and bought a an old 2013 chevy volt. idk im so far behind in medshcool im getting to the point where i might get held back a year (-280k$) /kicked out so i just ran out of time to fix it. i think ill limp it to a field and turn it into swiss cheese. idk maybe its worth some money, just really unsafe to drive now with all my shotty repairs. i had modified it to the point where it was getting 45-50 mpg lol. not sure you wanted all this info. just replace the parts the right way homie unless its a trans mount or something and youre 100% sure it will attempt to fix it.
@@vevenaneathna Damn. Well coodos to u 4 even having the motivation to do that much.
I know my anxiety would've made me crack under pressure a long time ago.
ya i got it all fixed and then tried teaching my gf how to drive stick and she fubarded the clutch/fork lever@@selwyn13 took the trans apart and put a new fork and throw bearing in there. must of broken a clutch fluid line somewhere in there coz i couldnt get the clutch to repressurize. with how poorly of a job i did, im just going to donate the car next year. pains me to do, just ran out of time to keep trying to fix it.
Thanks for the vid! I used this method to rebuild a broken transmission mount of a Toyota LandCruiser several years ago. Really expensive to buy a new one. As far as I know it's still holding up! Indeed you have to take your time and do it well though! Going to try it on the bushings of my Outback soon...Fingers crossed.
They work mint!
Do I have to let my car sit for 24 hours for it to cure? I'm about to try it but I'll drive with the polyurethane wet in hopes it shouldn't bother
@@alexlong3023yes let it completely dry before use
Did this to a gearbox mount on my fiesta that my mum now has, 3 years later it’s still solid
Same, going strong
Nice to hear @@millertimebmw
How long did it take to dry up??
@@kimlong13 I left it overnight before fitting it back on the car
@@dexietyy7922, thank you!!👍
I was looking for reviews so I can make insulated glass with with 3M urithane and I came up on your video and I left it on there cuz it was even more interesting
Hell yeah I'm gonna try this! I got a beater with a heater and I don't wanna spend alot on fixing this car
I'm definately going to try this. I have a grand marquis that needs 2 new lower control arms (all aluminum) only because the rubber bushings broke down and started to break apart. About $1000.00 parts and labor. I'm going to Home Depot today for window weld. It's definately worth a try and thanks so much for making this vid !
I'm interested to know how it turned out on your vehicle.
Howd it work out
Lol it didnt work out.it only will work usually on tranny and motor mount type bushings because of the access to the bushing you have and it doesnt have much movent and pressure on those mounts like an a arm bushing would have.but it depends on the circumstance. If you prep the metal good that its gona stick to and clean the rubber thats left so the polyurathane will adhere good which most the time is impossible to do good enough with such tight areas and since there is heavy road filth under the car.And with aluminum you have to clean the metal real real good because of oxidation layer that will not allow adhesion
Its also very unwise to try and mickey mouse fix a suspension item which more then likely will endanger yourself and every one else on the road.motor mounts and tranny mounts wont kill you if they fail suddenly. Suspension is an entirely different matter as far as the forces involved in all direction compared to motormounts.if you took the a arms off and prepped tHm good it mite work just fine.
@@conniestevenson226 I haven't seen a control arm design where if the rubber bushing totally fails, the metal parts come detach. Instead, the control arm pivots are still captured in the hole but rattle around. You can still drive the car but the tires may quickly wear due to incorrect toe-in, and the parts are then too squirrelly to set and maintain proper toe-in.
I live far enough from a Parts or Hardware store to justify attempting my one and only tube of liquid nails project material to fill in my massively gaping bushing on Front control arm bouncing around on my old 4x4 thanks for the tips everybody
Did it work with the liquid nails?
@@julianroccopesa3491 it would appear that he's dead. 😔
This is great. My lower control arm bushing ripped on my audi A6, I am gonna try this before a replace all the control arms which I am planning on doing it but not right now, specially if only one arm bushing failed but the other one still ok.
Did it work for you?
@billusry8902 no did not work .
Took long time to dry and after driving it failed apart.. had to buy a whole new arm
Maybe because it already failed. I wonder if this is used as a preventive, if it would be good? What do you think?
@@nataliegrn17 yeah as I a preventive might work better but not as a full failure..
I have been doing this for motor mounts and all things of this nature for years. Just want to make sure you clean the surface with brake cleaner before applying.
Will this increase vibrations on new OEM mounts or increase their life?
@@thingshappen9199yeah the new bushings will last a long time and there will be vibration.
I think you've just saved me from my carrier bearing bushing. For whatever reason, volvo went with welded yokes so it's a full shaft or nothing. Bearings fine, Ujoints fine, just the bushing starting to fail
I'm always doing this coz it works really well
How long is the cure time ? Its summer in Michigan , so maybe 24 hours should be good ?? Thanx 😎👍
How’s it holding up
He hasn't replied. Have you tried it?
@@nataliegrn17someone else on here did it on his outback and if you read the comments on that video the guy said it lasted a long time, however i read that it causes more vibrations
@6lackRain if you fill it up too much it does simple psychic 🔮
@@6lackRain polyurethane is harder/stiffer than stock rubber bushings, eg performance bushings which are PU let more vibrations into the body
GREAT SOLUTION!!! But videos are TOO LONG. But T.Y. ROCKSTAR !
Guess I’ll be using this on my rear diff bushing on my e46. The sad part is I have a new bushing, but you need car on a lift to remove the rear diff cover because one bolt is jammed up there in an awkward space and I couldn’t get to it 😢
I was looking in to this to do my transfer case bushing on my e46 330xi and happened to find this exact video. I actually have a brand new bushing ready to go in and the old bushing is out already I just wanted to stiffen up the new one a bit before I put it in. Also the control arm bushings are the way they are because your car is awd. The 2wd isn’t like that.
Very interesting idea. Your approach made sense. How did it hold up?
Yes you can. Also stiffen up new mounts aswell. Heat that sucker up to 140/60
What is important to understand when doing this.... if you notice the majority of rubber bushings are not solid rubber but usually has cut outs which allows the rubber to flex and give a dampening effect. You would not want them to be overly stiff and unable to flex which puts all of the transfered torque on the metal components causing excessive wear. Buts to not make the bushings solid rubber but maybe put some relief cuts or holes in the rubber. Otherwise this is a great idea. Might also want to clean the bushings with solvent to promote adhesion.
Excessive wear is not something you'll notice form this. However, you will notice some addition NVH over a stock bushing because of what you mentioned. It is a stiffer product than factory OEM parts for NVH reasons.
Curious, how well has this held up since? Thanks.
Still Going Strong!
Going to try this on my f10s differential bushes
You saved my bacon amigo! Thank you! A 👍s up on the video and consider me subscribed!
I think it needs one week to dry if you are filling mount,i did it on my friend e46 about 6 years ago and it was window weld of unknown brand but its ok till now no vibration also tried it in my altima 2006 2.5 for 3 engine mounts and transmission mount but for one the rear mount the urethane separate but the mount still brand new but ill reapply again and that was about 3 years ago
You could use a less aggressive cleaner on the rubber such as electronic cleaner, MAF cleaner, or even spray alcohol. Not everything needs brake clean
What about Simple Green?
@@selwyn13 That works. Honestly, we could be using soap. The sprays just increase convenience/productivity.
@@selwyn13However, that one commenter pointed out a strong solvent like brake cleaner might be necessary to make the product penetrate the rubber more. Might be something to try and not try on 2 sides.
hmm can you drill out a solid bushing somewhat and then fill it with window weld?
Great question. Have you tried it?
@@nataliegrn17 No I havent. I do have some old beater cars that I have considered doing it on. I mean seems like it could be a life saver on some of these that are practically metal on metal. seems like you would have to do the bottoms with the car on the ground then the tops with it lifted.
That or you can torch the old rubber out, wire brush /wire wheel it clean, then inject some poly to make your own polyurethane upgraded bushings. Keep in mind if you do this to engine mounts and such, you may notice some addition "NVH" because it IS stiffer than the factory rubber.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 Interesting! thats a great idea too!
Ive also used RTV silicon in the tube and have had great results. Its a little bit stiffer than window weld but its also half the price
Rtv is going to be shore hardness of about 30; window weld is mid 50s
But agreed anything’s better than worn out and RTV is cheaper.
@@millertimebmw I went with thr rtv to be a lot more soft, id hate to break axles with too much stiffness lol
@@LukeWaters powerflex polyurethane bushings can be a hardness rating of 80 to 90. So 50 is medium firmness. And 30 would be considered soft
My engine mount is directly under cat converter (like 10cm below). Since polyurethane isn’t heat resistant, is it gonna catch fire or melt? Thanks
@LukeWaters what type of bushings did you try with RTV? And how long did it last? Which color RTV? Gray?
Good video. This fix should buy you some time to replace the defective part but let’s not get ahead of ourselves like the other comment mentioned an oil leak which needs to be addressed otherwise you will be making 3m a lot of money
I used this trick because i own a rare car apparently that has no available bushings! Hope it works!
How's the bushing holding up? Any follow up vids?
I've been doing this for years to any open bushings or motor mounts....
Has it strengthened them? Caused problems?
@@nataliegrn17 yes, It works Great
@@BodyWeakDotNet thanks! That's true for rubber and Polyurethane bushing? Or just rubber?
@@nataliegrn17 if you have polyurethane bushings already..why would you need 3M?? The 3M works like a polyurethane bushing just alil softer....
The bushing we were having issues with, fell out around the swaybay link, and we figured while we wait for the new kit to come in just to use another larger bushing, and cranking down a hose clamp onto it for the time being since we cannot remove it without cutting the bolt
My Cooper S has worn LCA bushings...Now i know what Im gonna be doing after the Amazon man has been.
Thinking of doing the same , did it work?
Any update?
I have two tunes of dupont betaseal u-428 should work the same right says its urethane.
It sets up pretty hard
Awesome haha, need some of this for my gti! Just ordered a powerflex gearbox mount before I saw this
The Windo weld should adhere better on a surface that has been cleaned and primed.
I saw a comment to warm up the material to make it easier to squeeze the gun. may have saved your first gun.
When doing a windscreen there should be activator applied to the surface before applying the urethane then it will bond properly and not fall of in 12 months
You might want to fix the oil leak that's deteriorating the bushes first mate.
I think it was more the 300,000 miles on the stock bushing! But agree, always fix oil leaking first!
You might want to keep your mouth shut while pretending to be the smartest in the room.
Yeah bring back the Blue E36 to the channel.
Brilliant video 😎
How long does it take to dry
you have such a personality
3M Window Weld is a Urethane base, not "Polyurethane." Polyurethane would work better for that application, as it is stiffer and more durable. Urethane is softer and more pliable.
I just had to to buy honda mounts to replace mines, expensive. Covering the whole round shape of mount do not affects the stiffness or movement of motor???
I am going to try this 😱
How'd it go?
What about heat - wouldn't a heat-resistant type of rubber sealant be a better choice for this application?!
How high of temperatures do think these bushings are seeing? High temps are not a concern unless maybe you are hammering the car hard on the track....even then I doubt it. Even then polyurethane is exactly what higher quality race bushings are typically made of anyway.
Thanks every little bit helps great video
Don't you have to use a primer to the surface your using that adhesive?
The front bushing of the lower control arm on my Accord has an axis that is perpendicular to the ground, so gravity is on my side. I'll try filling it up with Gorilla glue, maybe using one of those meat syringes they sell at kitchen stores.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Funny how gravity is so selective. Strong enough to keep your car on the road. Too weak for a helium 🎈 🙄
Did you fix it?
Can you use that for front differential bushings, mine look different and I don’t see any spaces to put 3m window weld, I really don’t want to take the time to fix it, the cars not worth the labor time, I’d really rather use 3m, can you help me ?
Cool beans Kemosabe, I'm trying to figure out on what to use for the gaps in my new Z3 rear subframe bushings. Looks like this 3M product is just what the doctor ordered.
also thinking of trying on rear subframe mounting bushings. Howd it go? (F01 7 series)
@@malaslittleworld I didn't go through with it, was trying to turn brand new oem sub bushings into solid, but went with poly in the end.
@@jamescollins5073what kind of poly?
To be fair.. This is how they build them at the factory.. They just shoot practically the same urethane into a mold and make it look prettier.. :)
Im curious as to what the fffk you used that caulking gun for 😂
great job
Did it work out tho?
It is great idea to prevent and increase the life
Ill use this to fill my mini exhaust hanger bush. Should be perfect for it. Its a pain in a ass to change muffler rubber hanger.
How long after you filled them, did you drive the car?
I waited one day, (24 hours). still strong!
Will using silicone sealant be as effective?
No, the silicone win't harder as rigid. This window weld is almost a flexible but hard plastic.
Wow this is a diy ers dream trick. Does this really work in your opinion?
Also what about removing the weld later on if the bushing needs to be replaced?
It has held up well for some time, I will make sure to keep updating. The window weld is still mostly only inside the bushing. Replacement is just as easy as without the window weld!
How long did it take to be able to drive on it?
@@millertimebmw please gives us update for me this is temporary repair:)
@@aleksaleks7977 All repairs are temporary good sir.
Without applying the window weld was the car vibrating?
Yeah, he said it was vibrating beforehand.
How long does this last?
Still going today!
Thanks for this, I'm looking to do this for my front diff mounts. Curious how its held up over time?
Still going Strong!
It's been 2 Years, any update on how it's holding ?
He answered two months ago, that still going strong
How long did it take to cure???
24-hours is what I waited. its still going strong!
Thank u iv just got a 300 pound car and rear brush s r shot don't want to spend any money on it only need it for 4 months
How has it been holding up? If it worked for even just a year, that's such a great deal!
There are many naysayers, but especially for this particular bushing, it’s a home run! Still going great! (Especially considering the bushing is a $300-400 so bill to replace)
Cure: 3mm per 24h in 21°C. After filling wait two months for it to dry. Yeah.
Heat gun
Two months to dry?
This dude is Moist Critical's twin
This stuff takes way too long to dry. I just use construction PL and its hard within 24h
Can you please share the product link and how it is holding on. Thanks!
That was user error had nothing to do with the gun
This doesn’t work . The cars to heavy to hold that
Still going well, The car doesnt have MASSIVE power.
Up to what kind of power would this work well for?
Jesus Christ, hope you don’t sell vehicles. What a slop job.
You're right, since lots of people will be able to see the black goo underneath the car. Out of sight, out of mind. Can't believe I didn't think of this geniousness sooner
Pe r fect doesn't perfectly bloody exist ole chap, exist on paper and in your OWN hands...Try praying a better prayer, ~Jesus Christ
GARBAGE. THAT IS GARBAGE. PLEASE DO NOT MAKE MY MISTAKE. SAVE YOUR TIME AND PAIN, AND ALSO MONEY.
If you can't replace the bushing with a new one, and, the bushing is open on both sides. This has worked well for many other people.
A wasted time.