Eudialyte is another stone that needs this treatment. I tried using Opticon once on holey Rhodochrosite. Used a Pyrex pie plate. Heated the stones in the oven. Forgot to laydown any saran wrap. Did the Opticon and the hardener. Stones stuck to the pie plate. Disaster. Now I use superglue to fill cracks. In canning food I do believe there is some vacuum pressure for the lids. I had some watermelon tourmaline crystals I wanted to look better so I used mineral oil in a pot on the stove and a mason jar in the pot along with my tourmaline and somehow I created enough vacuum pressure to get oil inside the tourmaline so they didn’t look so dried out. I wanted shiny rough. And they didn’t feel oily either.
Thats very interesting. I have a wood stabilizing service and use cactus juice. I am suprised you can get any penetration with such a thick resin and no resting time. I might give this a try in cactus juice and see how it goes. My understanding is that to create an equilibrium of the pressure inside the material you would need a positive pressure equal to the negative pressure for the same duration and scaled for pneumatic resistance (thats way to much math for me so I just do long soaks). For example on a normal density wood with cactus juice I pull vacuum for 24hrs and let soak for 5 or 6 days. Cactus juice is pretty close to the viscosity or water. In my mind something with a viscosity as high as a 2 part epoxy would need a much longer duration of soak or positive pressure because of the pneumatics involved (air is easier to pull out that the resin is to push in). None of this would really matter if your material is close to final dimensions, but trying a thinner resin, long soak and using a heat cure instead of 2 part epoxy might make it possible to have the density of the gems consistent throughout the material. Not sure if that matters to you but its just something I thought about while watching this. I have ben able to stabilize antler and bone with my meathod. Another tip would be to drive off as much moisture that is inside your material as possible before stabilizing. Like drying your material above the boiling point for atleast 24 hours then letting the temperature come back down in a air tight container with rice or some other desiccant.
Thank you for the comment. I’m gonna have to try cactus juice on rocks. I’ve heard of that.. I think the vacuum technique with he gets the epoxy deeper into the rock, the heat helps open the pores the vacuum pulls out the air and noncondensibles, leaving the void for the Apoxsee to draw into as it cools, I did allow it to cool, but it will harden, so I did not want it to harden into one big mass so I had to take it out and put it on the cookie sheets or aluminum foil. I’m open to better ways of doing it and experimenting. Thank you again for your comment.
Hi, I have a question for you, I make silver jewelry and decided to start cutting and polishing cabs myself. I'm using Opticon the way you show in this video, but after 3 days, my slabs are still a little sticky? It's been in the high 60's where I live. Is there anything I can do to remove the sticky layer or help it along curing? Thanks!
I’m thinking this is a technique geared for already cut stones. I’m wondering if you added the hardener in step one, how deep the mixture would penetrate… i know it would be a massive waste, unless you put it in a vac sealed bag or something so you wouldn’t have to mix so much
I’ve done it with just heat and no vacuum. It usually doesn’t go to Deep it depends on how porous the stone is. With the vacuum technique, it goes far enough to be able to make my cabochons.
Would the opticon penetrate into the stone better if they would go into a pressure pot after the vacuum pot. Then apply the hardner to the surface of the stone?
I’m not sure, I have not tried that. I do know when you create a vacuum it pulls everything out of the stone. And because it’s hot that helps everything get out of the stone in the pores to open then as it cools, it draws in the hardner. 😮
I’m sure you’re correct. It looks like it’s bubbling all around when you look at the pictures in the video it’s sucking air out of everything so when it sucks the air out and as it cools the resin is going to fill those cavities in the rock
Here is one more. I have some of this material that was stabilized by the vacuum technique that I gave not cabb’ed yet but it looks very stable.ua-cam.com/video/DOmPIdX3GYQ/v-deo.html
@@RadicalRocks Thanks for the link. Off subject, I stopped dopping with wax years ago. I now use small carriage bolts and Super Glue. Dab a drop of the Gel Super Glue on the top of the small carriage bolt and your stone will not come off until you soak it overnight in a glass jar of Acetone. Never fails.
Love the video, but that’s a prime method to get a leaker. The hardener doesn’t penetrate as deep as the resin, so after you finish working the herdenned outside and let it sit.... it will eventually sweat out the opticon... I know from experience unfortunately 😂
I use silicone paper called parchment. Nothing sticks to silicone and you are using 150 degrees. The paper is good up to 400. Both sides are good to use and reuse over and over.
Just follow the instructions on the epoxy container I believe it’s 170°F just double check the directions, when I was doing this video I was using the heating elements, so keeping the exact temperature. It was kind of tough.
I use silicone paper called parchment. Nothing sticks to silicone and you are using 150 degrees. The paper is good up to 400. Both sides are good to use and reuse over and over.
Eudialyte is another stone that needs this treatment.
I tried using Opticon once on holey Rhodochrosite. Used a Pyrex pie plate. Heated the stones in the oven. Forgot to laydown any saran wrap. Did the Opticon and the hardener. Stones stuck to the pie plate. Disaster. Now I use superglue to fill cracks.
In canning food I do believe there is some vacuum pressure for the lids. I had some watermelon tourmaline crystals I wanted to look better so I used mineral oil in a pot on the stove and a mason jar in the pot along with my tourmaline and somehow I created enough vacuum pressure to get oil inside the tourmaline so they didn’t look so dried out. I wanted shiny rough. And they didn’t feel oily either.
Thanks for sharing
Hi
Can I use this method for my cracked thin walled agate bottle?
I’m not sure how the heat will treat your bottle, however there are clear epoxy choices, try Johnson’s lapidary on line and see what they have
Thats very interesting. I have a wood stabilizing service and use cactus juice. I am suprised you can get any penetration with such a thick resin and no resting time. I might give this a try in cactus juice and see how it goes. My understanding is that to create an equilibrium of the pressure inside the material you would need a positive pressure equal to the negative pressure for the same duration and scaled for pneumatic resistance (thats way to much math for me so I just do long soaks). For example on a normal density wood with cactus juice I pull vacuum for 24hrs and let soak for 5 or 6 days. Cactus juice is pretty close to the viscosity or water. In my mind something with a viscosity as high as a 2 part epoxy would need a much longer duration of soak or positive pressure because of the pneumatics involved (air is easier to pull out that the resin is to push in). None of this would really matter if your material is close to final dimensions, but trying a thinner resin, long soak and using a heat cure instead of 2 part epoxy might make it possible to have the density of the gems consistent throughout the material. Not sure if that matters to you but its just something I thought about while watching this. I have ben able to stabilize antler and bone with my meathod. Another tip would be to drive off as much moisture that is inside your material as possible before stabilizing. Like drying your material above the boiling point for atleast 24 hours then letting the temperature come back down in a air tight container with rice or some other desiccant.
Thank you for the comment. I’m gonna have to try cactus juice on rocks. I’ve heard of that.. I think the vacuum technique with he gets the epoxy deeper into the rock, the heat helps open the pores the vacuum pulls out the air and noncondensibles, leaving the void for the Apoxsee to draw into as it cools, I did allow it to cool, but it will harden, so I did not want it to harden into one big mass so I had to take it out and put it on the cookie sheets or aluminum foil. I’m open to better ways of doing it and experimenting. Thank you again for your comment.
Hi, I have a question for you, I make silver jewelry and decided to start cutting and polishing cabs myself. I'm using Opticon the way you show in this video, but after 3 days, my slabs are still a little sticky? It's been in the high 60's where I live. Is there anything I can do to remove the sticky layer or help it along curing?
Thanks!
Try putting it under the heat lamp. Or you can try cleaning them with acetone, dry them out and try to coat them again using a little bit more Hardner
I’m thinking this is a technique geared for already cut stones. I’m wondering if you added the hardener in step one, how deep the mixture would penetrate… i know it would be a massive waste, unless you put it in a vac sealed bag or something so you wouldn’t have to mix so much
I’ve done it with just heat and no vacuum. It usually doesn’t go to Deep it depends on how porous the stone is. With the vacuum technique, it goes far enough to be able to make my cabochons.
Would the opticon penetrate into the stone better if they would go into a pressure pot after the vacuum pot. Then apply the hardner to the surface of the stone?
I’m not sure, I have not tried that. I do know when you create a vacuum it pulls everything out of the stone. And because it’s hot that helps everything get out of the stone in the pores to open then as it cools, it draws in the hardner. 😮
The vacuum pulls the air out of the stone and replaces it with the harder
Have you tried your vacuum unit with just the resin and no rocks I would be willing to bet it bubbles without the rocks
I’m sure you’re correct. It looks like it’s bubbling all around when you look at the pictures in the video it’s sucking air out of everything so when it sucks the air out and as it cools the resin is going to fill those cavities in the rock
Also, putting in a vacuum low boiling point so it could literally be boiling
Pretty cool. I live 20 miles from a nice vericite mine
Sounds great!
fantastic ❤
I look for you on Etsy. Couldn’t find you.
Sorry try radicalrocksusa thank you
If you use a different hardner like Cactus Juice aluminum foil is fine, because it gets heat after the vacuum pot.
Great, thanks for the tip Sue
Have any examples of the finished stones? Interested in images of the final product. Wondering if they undercut when you are cabbing.
Yes here is one.ua-cam.com/video/0RQIEg7hAsU/v-deo.html
Here is one more. I have some of this material that was stabilized by the vacuum technique that I gave not cabb’ed yet but it looks very stable.ua-cam.com/video/DOmPIdX3GYQ/v-deo.html
@@RadicalRocks Thanks for the link. Off subject, I stopped dopping with wax years ago. I now use small carriage bolts and Super Glue. Dab a drop of the Gel Super Glue on the top of the small carriage bolt and your stone will not come off until you soak it overnight in a glass jar of Acetone. Never fails.
Also if your not cabbing opal or other stones with micro/water you can heat the bolt and the supper glue will pop right off, I’ve done this with agate
@@kimbrunstudio also will come off with heat or freezing if they are safe with your stone.
Love the video, but that’s a prime method to get a leaker. The hardener doesn’t penetrate as deep as the resin, so after you finish working the herdenned outside and let it sit.... it will eventually sweat out the opticon... I know from experience unfortunately 😂
I used heat and let it cool in the chamber, it’s worked better than with out vacuuming
How do you usually stabilize to avoid this?
I use silicone paper called parchment. Nothing sticks to silicone and you are using 150 degrees. The paper is good up to 400. Both sides are good to use and reuse over and over.
Sounds good. Thanks for the tip
Pre-Heat Oven to 200F; load rocks, remove and place into the next step?
Just follow the instructions on the epoxy container I believe it’s 170°F just double check the directions, when I was doing this video I was using the heating elements, so keeping the exact temperature. It was kind of tough.
How's that resin compared to Cactus Juice?
That’s a good question I have not compare the two
@@RadicalRocks I looks like the cactus juice might be easier to use. But I wouldn't think it'd get as hard as resin
How much hp is your vaccume pump
It’s rated 3 CFM I believe it’s a 2 stage
Sir can I use that method for emerald crack filling
No. Typically emeralds are waxed or oiled
@@RadicalRocks sir which method best for emerald crack filling please explain
That method can use for yellow sapphire and blue sapphire
Wax paper
Thank you😊
Had you ever had stabilized Ethiopian Opals
I have not hardened opals. You will need to use a cold application, they will crack if heated, as they contain water.
I use silicone paper called parchment. Nothing sticks to silicone and you are using 150 degrees. The paper is good up to 400. Both sides are good to use and reuse over and over.
Good idea. Parchment paper is for lining your cookie sheet to bake cookies. Sold next to tin foil and saran wrap.