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When I was administrator on a lapidary site a decade ago we published this information ( similar not exact) and we were informed by a lapidary retailer who recoats that we would be sued if we did not pull the info. It caused a lot of folks a lot of grief. Nice work.
That's funny, people who threaten lawsuits have never actually sued someone before and have no idea of the costs involved. Sounds like you're talking about Johnson Brothers here, if that's the case, I welcome them to say that to me! :)
What is there to sue over? If its Johnson Bros, I'll never buy from them again. There are no patents on mixing diamond powder with epoxy alone. Far too vague. It would have to be more specific. As in, a new tool design, for instance, but it would have to be the same process and product, and they would have to make a profit from it. Anyone can make anything, as long as they're not making a profit from marketing a patented or licensed product
It’s better to be sued than to sue. Once you say “I’ll sue” you’ve already been screwed. I had a lawsuit I filed & the legal fees were 2.3 million. 4 years in court 2 trials, & a jury verdict in my favor. Collecting is another story. Ended up settling for 1/2 the awarded amount. That’s reality!!!! So now when I hear someone say “I’ll sue” I think, they don’t understand the reality.
Since the belts absorb so much on the first layer, maybe you should do the first layer with epoxy and dye only. Then follow up with the epoxy/diamond/dye on the second layer. Then it will not use so much of the diamond powder up front. As usual, another good informative video. Thank you.
You are already established as the man to listen to when it comes to diy lapidary products! After the arbor build out, you really got your name out there! And now the belts is an awesome step up! We all already know that if Jared built it, you know it's good! Thanks Jared!
Thank you so much! I do really enjoy making things like this and I hope some people can use it to start saving money where they can. Less money in the shop and more in the gas tank!!!
My lapidary workshop and my business have benefited tremendously from having found your channel and binging your videos, like most people do with Netflix! I just want to give credit where due, and while I could never find the words to have enough impact based on the respect and appreciation that I have for you, I simply want to say thank you and you're appreciated. I'm currently developing a diamond impregnated resin soft when for my Dremel, which I use primarily based on what I do, and the only reason I even thought it possible and worked so diligently to come up with this idea is due to watching your tenacity and ingenuity. So thank you so much, and please continue to share your knowledge and being he prime example of what more people in the world should strive to be, in your undying drive towards education and invention!!
Thank you so much for the kind words, they really do mean a lot to me. I would love to hear how those go for you. Not enough people are producing their own diamond products.
I will be watching all your vlogs, so much useful info! A lot of people don't have the $$$$ to spend on this equipment. Your Diy methods shall prove to be rather useful. Thanks!
As a bike messenger back in the 90's we never raced with color tires. The dye used to color them made the rubber slicker and prone to slipping on the track.
I am not very happy. I have been perfecting my own diamond belts and I thought I was the only one to make my own other than the Johnson brothers. I have been looking for months for a UA-cam video on this but couldn't find one. I am kidding, but I wish I had this method before.
I have seen a couple of diy diamond belt production vids here on youtube. One thing I would highly recomend for all is: mix the resin completly before adding diamond- otherwise the first substance sticking to the diamond will lead to less bounding within the matrix I guess. Beside that thanks for the explanation and sharing. Cheers f
Gotta admit, I was a bit skeptical at first, but you smashed that. Great video bud. I mean, you showed us in real time, mistakes and all, and proved it can work, and work very well. That’s awesome. Thank you for sharing this with us.
This is the best video out there so far,in my opinion! Thanks so much! You know,the mistake belt could be used inside out! Just do the process again,on the inside! In a pinch you could try to recoat it,also.I am going to use my current wheels,well cleaned,since the belts don't come off my six inch.But thanks again! I have a Kingsley North catalog,so I'll look this stuff up!!!
@CurrentlyRockhounding: If you were to put a thick layer of epoxy without grit on the belt first. You could pass the belt between two rollers pressed together (or one roller against a tabletop or some other flat, hard surface.) to push the epoxy into the fabric of the belt. After that, epoxy with grit should go on evenly without thin spots. I think that a small, rubber roller with some way to adjust its position, placed above the roller on your motorized stand, would be able to press the epoxy/grit into the belt so that it is spread out without so many high or low spots. Then your break in period might be shorter as well as producing a more even distribution of grit on the belt. If you have access to a 3D printer, you could print a small trough with a slot in the bottom that is as wide as the belts are. If you make the slot the right width, and put the trough above the belt roller so that epoxy poured into the trough will flow evenly onto the belt. If you desigh the trough right you can make a follower (the follower should fit the trough's internal profile so that, when it is pushed in all the way, there is no void space where epoxy can hide) to push the epoxy/grit out of the slot. If you put the trough in front of the roller I described above, all you would have to do is to put the belt in place and start the motor. Then you'd just pour in the epoxy and put the follower in place and it would do the rest. With some experimentation, you should be able to make belts quickly and easily while still making high quality coatings on them. This is a great idea. Thanks for making this video.
Maybe put on a layer of clear epoxy first and then add the diamond solution after that’s dry. It probably soaks into the belt. They make silicone brushes that wouldn’t fall apart on the belt. Basically this is the way people make those really cool looking water cups with all the glitter and stuff. Our friend is trying this with nova wheels once they are worn down to nothing. I love finding ways to make this hobby a bit more affordable.
Now that I know how much soaks into the belt I think that would have been best. The issues I had with these throw away brushes was not the best at all and I will have to find one of those silicone brushes.
There are epoxy colored part B die, red, green, blue, Etc. I would consider making a tray to roll the blank belt in (where did you get those blanks at anyway??) also you can add no more than 10% pure 98% or better alcohol to thin the epoxy. I have tried spraying with an airbrush vinyl (fake leather) sheet material that has a fuzz like velcro backing surface. Seems to be working for a light cut & polish. 1.0-0.5 micron diamond. For my Hi Tech 6" disk. Thanks for the video, tip...counter top bread makers have a great AC motor that is brushless. The lower half is a steel bulkhead works combined with a wood second half making up a dynamite rock tumbler. Currently using a 6" PVC section w/ end caps.
I absolutely love your videos. Appreciate all the information shared in a ‘real’ manner!! Thank you I look forward to the day when I can actually support your work
Ingenius economical no expensive or heavy equipment required, no lathes or welding-EXCELLENT! A very doable project for my skill level and budget. I will have to improvise for an expandable drum wheel or a substitute-I am not afraid to experiment a bit -limiting waste is key. Thanks Jared!
I think what I did here could also really be improved on, I think a better bush would be nice as well as a better system for turning the wheel would be good.
Start with the finest grit and work your way toward the coarsest. There is no need to clean in between. Can't contaminate a coarse grit with a finer one. Thanks for sharing. Learning about something I've been curious about, but haven't taken the plunge
If you start with the finest diamonds 3000 you should do 1500 next and work your way to the corest you don't have to worry about the wrong diamond being on the wrong wheel.
ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE concept and thank you so much for showing us the whole process! Do you think this technique would work to make flat laps (as that’s the only equipment I’ve got)? I’m not sure what to make the base out of, not sure if it should have some flexibility?? Epoxy is already so brittle that maybe a rigid substrate like scuffed acrylic would be a good choice? Anyway, you have definitely got me inspired!
You come up with some good ideas and buck the "system" and i like your DIY spirit. I'm thinking if this works on belts, then why not on 6 to 8 inch discs for laps. Thanks for your efforts 👌
Alumalite dyes are more concentrated, 1 drop will definitely show up through the diamond dust. I wonder if you can do a light coat of just epoxy, let that cure for 4-6 hours, then recoat with the diamond mixture.
I’d go ahead and try that one that was sticky just because it’s sticky doesn’t mean that it’s not gonna work it means that there was enough Hardner in the whatever the topcoat him or you have on that and it’s that you can also just mix a little bit more up put it on top and harden it
Love your channel! Your creativity is inspiring. Suggest dying the belts before you start applying the epoxy. A few years ago I heard someone suggest using cold galvanizing compound spray and diamond to rejuvenate flat laps and galaxy wheels. I haven't tried yet, but intend to after a few more pressing projects are finished. Keep up the great work!!
ideas to ponder pre coat the belt die may be seen diamond will be on the surface acetone will thin epoxy hope this helps as i will try this urd best tuber
Hey Jared.. what a great idea. Love the out-of-the-box ideas and concept's you mull over, experiment, and then share with us the results. With that said, if I recall correctly, the whole idea was to not have the problems that can be associated with "Cerium Oxide". Watching you DIY and creating your own belts got me wondering if the same idea could be applied (concept-wise) to creating a epoxy-based Cerium or even a Tin Oxide belt? I'm just talking outloud here.. Really enjoyed his episode and wish you continued success!
@@CurrentlyRockhounding HP does make a Cerium Oxide belt for one of there machine, so it can be done. Scott Wilkins uses one on his channel if you want to see it in action.
I had a thought and I thought I'd run it by you to see if you think it's feasible. I think that, depending on the consistency of the quartzite, it should be possible to mill out an AR-15 lower receiver. It's a part that does not undergo any pressure other than the rear tower that houses the recoil assembly and I believe that it might be possible to handle that stress or the tower could be milled with extra thickness if needed.
After reading some of the other's comments, how about this. get a wide putty knife and bend the edges right at the width of the belt so it looks like an elongated U L_______l. Then attach a spring to keep it in contact with the belt/drum with light pressure. Then you can drizzle the epoxy onto the belt and let the spring loaded putty knife do the spreading. It will also keep the drum/belt aligned by the bent up edges. Obviously you would remove it at some point so as not to epoxy it to the wheel.
I may go with flat laps rather than wheels -easier for the machines I am using, I may have to recalculate the formula is all to cover a different size area and I can crunch a few numbers and give it a go!
Great video Gives me ideas , thank you I'm thinking the cold weather caused issues with the 1st belt not drying also possible the amount of material mixed with the epoxy caused it to not cure. But it sounds like the BSI epoxy did the trick. 👍👍 BSI is the best glues for everything with the exception of E6000. Lol
Do it! Part of the reason I make these videos is so that people can piggy back on the work I have done and hopefully I can do the same when other people take it and make improvements.
Over time I realized that acrylic paint can actually make the epoxy harder (maybe more brittle). Acrylic will also decrease the cure time with 10% added, as you increase it will cause the epoxy to become clumpy and harden almost instantly when you add a 1/1 ratio of acrylic to epoxy. Interesting stuff to play with.
Air brushes are typically gravity fed. In a low viscosity fluid, the diamonds would probably fall out of suspension too fast. However, still a really good idea with one small modification. Put epoxy on first, then spray on the diamonds with a spray gun used for etching glass. Would need to lower air pressure considerably. .... hrmmmmm, might work.
So now that it has been a few days, how are the belts lasting? I am assuming that you made this is march or so because of the heavy clothes. What I have noticed is that the belts tend to work the best from 230 to 2k or so. I have a hard time making the 3k belts last without giving extra light scratches from the hard epoxy. I have also found that I need to take a 60 grit sand paper to the belts to even out the wear sometimes.
Great video! Did you happen to look at the belts with your microscope to see the concentration, distribution and exposure (from under the epoxy) of the diamonds? Wonder how that is going to change over use....
Jared, can you give us on update on the pads? I have still been making at least one pad a week since May or so, but I still scratching my head on the 1.2k + belts as I said in another comment the epoxy by itself slightly scratch my stones, even agates. For three longest time I thought it was best they weren't evenly coated, so I have spent several months now try to get the perfect formal and perfectly smooth coats. What I have found is that even if I spend an hour sanding my belts and get them a smooth as I can, they will only work for a stone or two and then they start to scratch my stones again. I have used Bsrezn Clear Epoxy Resin 24OZ and the resin is really strong and will cut many stones before a needing a new coat. My 60grit belts are a beast and cut fast, take a beating and my first one is lasting since June with plenty of wear left. I have been using the 60grit every other day for an hour or so. Pretty impressive. I am NOT so impressed with my 1200 grit, 2,000 gritand espcially my 3, 24:3224:3224:32 000 grit. I have experimented with 100% silicone, with E-6000, and some rubber putty all of which are great materials, just difficult to work with for this application. The E6000 works well for smaller applications like 5in pads, and the silicone might work for belts, but both have a small window of workable time. If Bob Smith Industries is still working for your belts, let us all know. Just curious if your thunder eggs or other stones with sharp edges have made groves that affect performance. My friend is wanting to make his own but I am going to caution him from using just any epoxy espcially for higher grit pads/belts. Would you recommend the Bob Smith industries epoxy? Where is a good source for repurposing low RPM motors?
I have had no issues with the belts that I have made using the BSI epoxy. How exactly are you sure that your scratches are coming from the epoxy? Also you shouldn't ever be taking sharp edges to soft belts, or pads of anything kind. That kind of work is best left for hard wheels. When you say "low RPM motor" what are you looking for and to do what exactly? Any motor can be speed adjusted with pulleys.
So, when I say it is the epoxy that scratches it, I mean I have made an epoxy pad with just epoxy and one with epoxy that I purposely made slightly rough. I was able to get the rough epoxy scratch an agate that I had gotten up to a 2k grit. It made noticable scratches and I didn't even press hard. I did this because I couldn't figure out why my smooth stones with no rough edges would be perfectly fine at 1200 grit but then get scratches sometimes after using the 2kgrit or 3kgrit diamond belts. Concerning the motor, I meant the little motor that you used to spin your wheel while the epoxy dries.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding A little CA glue applied where the bristles come out of the handle, sprinkle a little baking soda on the area and you have instantly cured glue with bristles fixed in place. Do a small batch for efficiency.
I'm considering doing this to re-coat some Cab King 6 inch wheels that are 1.5 inch wide. That would take quite a bit less than what you used for these belts. Any recommendation for the weight of epoxy and carats for that size compared to what you mixed?
That is a good question. You could try doing half of what I did. Also you will want to clean those wheels really really well before doing it. I would wash them really well with hot water and dish soap and then wipe them down with some alcohol. You want them to be dirt and oil free for maximum adherence.
How did this work out for you using the 6 inch wheels? I'm going to try it with all my old 8 inch rez wheels. I can't see it being any different than a flexible belt.
Thank you for sharing as always sir. Also am curious how much time was involved in getting parts, putting together the equipment you used and actually coating the belts? Also, am not sure I understand all the math involved. You mention that you were holding three containers with 100cts of diamonds....that = 33.333cts per jar and you said it was $70 for the three jars or $23.33 per jar. If you used 30cts of diamonds per belt and the jar has 33.333cts it would seem that you used around $20 of diamonds per belt...is that accurate? Thanks again!
Each one of those containers were 100cts, so 300 in total. So the exact math break down of price was $22.07 per 100cts x 3 which is $66.21 total. Using about 30 cts per belt to establish the belt comes to a diamond price of $6.62, and then add the resin and the actual belt. It wasn't a lot of time spent on the project really, I mean most of the time was spent waiting for them to cure and figuring out that to get them made it kind of needs to be done twice.
You should try thinning out the epoxy and doing many light coats. I have a friend that did this but gave up as he could get them from someone else that also makes them for about the same price but does not waste time and stick with the core hobby.
I bought 8" belts from Kingsley North several years ago and used them a maximum of 10 times before they broke at the seam. I would much rather do this than waste money.
Yeah, they should be last a great deal longer than that. I still have and run these belts I made in this video. They can just be re-coated over and over again.
Jared I have been waiting for this video! bout damn time!! Kidding, seriously though I have been and I have known all along that the reason for the high prices on this stuff is it is a small market! Anyone who thinks it's because of the diamonds doesn't have a good foot hold into reality. I will check out the links you have provided. I absolutely intend on making my own, I have worked with epoxy's potting electronics for aviation. I am at least familiar with epoxies and mixing..Just need to go through the learning curve myself. Thanks for doing this, it is long long overdue. With the Chinese in the market, companies like Diamond Pacific really need to look into themselves because the market in my and many others is way overpriced and due for an adjustment. This is hopefully the starting point..Thanks again.
I think this process could be refined for sure and from reading peoples comments here I already have ideas on how to make it better. I'm not familiar with them at or mixing them so I likely could have done this better but my hope here is that people see what I did and improve on the concept.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Those belts that ended up tacky, did you try a low temp bake? That could help them to cure, the tackiness could be from not mixing enough or not enough hardener. Is the ratio for mixing the epoxy one to one?
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When I was administrator on a lapidary site a decade ago we published this information ( similar not exact) and we were informed by a lapidary retailer who recoats that we would be sued if we did not pull the info. It caused a lot of folks a lot of grief. Nice work.
That's funny, people who threaten lawsuits have never actually sued someone before and have no idea of the costs involved.
Sounds like you're talking about Johnson Brothers here, if that's the case, I welcome them to say that to me! :)
What is there to sue over? If its Johnson Bros, I'll never buy from them again. There are no patents on mixing diamond powder with epoxy alone. Far too vague. It would have to be more specific. As in, a new tool design, for instance, but it would have to be the same process and product, and they would have to make a profit from it. Anyone can make anything, as long as they're not making a profit from marketing a patented or licensed product
It’s better to be sued than to sue. Once you say “I’ll sue” you’ve already been screwed. I had a lawsuit I filed & the legal fees were 2.3 million. 4 years in court 2 trials, & a jury verdict in my favor. Collecting is another story. Ended up settling for 1/2 the awarded amount. That’s reality!!!! So now when I hear someone say “I’ll sue” I think, they don’t understand the reality.
Sue away! Cheeky blighter! I have free legal if you don't count my daughter's law school tuition.
@@lithicbeads once you say “we’ll sue” you’re already screwed. It’s much better to be the suede person than the person filing the lawsuit.
Since the belts absorb so much on the first layer, maybe you should do the first layer with epoxy and dye only. Then follow up with the epoxy/diamond/dye on the second layer. Then it will not use so much of the diamond powder up front. As usual, another good informative video. Thank you.
I think that would be a much better way to do it for sure.
You are already established as the man to listen to when it comes to diy lapidary products! After the arbor build out, you really got your name out there! And now the belts is an awesome step up! We all already know that if Jared built it, you know it's good! Thanks Jared!
Thank you so much! I do really enjoy making things like this and I hope some people can use it to start saving money where they can.
Less money in the shop and more in the gas tank!!!
My lapidary workshop and my business have benefited tremendously from having found your channel and binging your videos, like most people do with Netflix! I just want to give credit where due, and while I could never find the words to have enough impact based on the respect and appreciation that I have for you, I simply want to say thank you and you're appreciated. I'm currently developing a diamond impregnated resin soft when for my Dremel, which I use primarily based on what I do, and the only reason I even thought it possible and worked so diligently to come up with this idea is due to watching your tenacity and ingenuity. So thank you so much, and please continue to share your knowledge and being he prime example of what more people in the world should strive to be, in your undying drive towards education and invention!!
Thank you so much for the kind words, they really do mean a lot to me.
I would love to hear how those go for you. Not enough people are producing their own diamond products.
Always upping your game. You got me thinking about how the ancient peoples worked stones. Time to go digging.
You bring up a very interesting and good topic here. I really don't have a clue as to how this was done like pre 1900.
AWESOME, Dude! Who doesn't love to save money?
I will be watching all your vlogs, so much useful info! A lot of people don't have the $$$$ to spend on this equipment. Your Diy methods shall prove to be rather useful. Thanks!
I hear you there, I couldn't buy everything new if I wanted to so I like make things like this as well as restore old machines.
i love your honesty in all your videos.
It's the only way.
"We're not doing that! We're making our own!" I like your style. Excellent.
I love saving money, who doesn't. Great Information, love that you try to help others.
It's a two way street, you should look at the ideas and help in the comments section of this video. Y'all share some great ideas with me here.
As a bike messenger back in the 90's we never raced with color tires. The dye used to color them made the rubber slicker and prone to slipping on the track.
Okay...
I’m thinking about making my own diamond plates for my fixed geometry knife sharpening system and this has given me a few ideas. Thank you.
I'm glad you found it to be helpful.
WOW! That one at the end looks like glass! Awesome job!
Thank you!
I am not very happy. I have been perfecting my own diamond belts and I thought I was the only one to make my own other than the Johnson brothers. I have been looking for months for a UA-cam video on this but couldn't find one. I am kidding, but I wish I had this method before.
What have you been doing for your method?
You can use methyl (denatured) alcohol as a thinner for epoxy. Might help in painting the belt.
Great idea, Jared! Way to go. I love how resourceful and creative you are.
Thank you!
I have seen a couple of diy diamond belt production vids here on youtube. One thing I would highly recomend for all is: mix the resin completly before adding diamond- otherwise the first substance sticking to the diamond will lead to less bounding within the matrix I guess. Beside that thanks for the explanation and sharing. Cheers f
Thanks for adding this. For those of us who are straight hobbyists, the cost of belts is prohibitive. I appreciate an alternative.
I'm glad you liked it!
if you start out with the finer grit and progress to heavier grits then cleaning is null.
Gotta admit, I was a bit skeptical at first, but you smashed that. Great video bud. I mean, you showed us in real time, mistakes and all, and proved it can work, and work very well. That’s awesome. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Thank you, I try to show my homework on projects like this.
This is the best video out there so far,in my opinion! Thanks so much! You know,the mistake belt could be used inside out! Just do the process again,on the inside! In a pinch you could try to recoat it,also.I am going to use my current wheels,well cleaned,since the belts don't come off my six inch.But thanks again! I have a Kingsley North catalog,so I'll look this stuff up!!!
@CurrentlyRockhounding: If you were to put a thick layer of epoxy without grit on the belt first. You could pass the belt between two rollers pressed together (or one roller against a tabletop or some other flat, hard surface.) to push the epoxy into the fabric of the belt. After that, epoxy with grit should go on evenly without thin spots.
I think that a small, rubber roller with some way to adjust its position, placed above the roller on your motorized stand, would be able to press the epoxy/grit into the belt so that it is spread out without so many high or low spots. Then your break in period might be shorter as well as producing a more even distribution of grit on the belt.
If you have access to a 3D printer, you could print a small trough with a slot in the bottom that is as wide as the belts are. If you make the slot the right width, and put the trough above the belt roller so that epoxy poured into the trough will flow evenly onto the belt. If you desigh the trough right you can make a follower (the follower should fit the trough's internal profile so that, when it is pushed in all the way, there is no void space where epoxy can hide) to push the epoxy/grit out of the slot. If you put the trough in front of the roller I described above, all you would have to do is to put the belt in place and start the motor. Then you'd just pour in the epoxy and put the follower in place and it would do the rest. With some experimentation, you should be able to make belts quickly and easily while still making high quality coatings on them.
This is a great idea. Thanks for making this video.
The process could use some improvements for sure, and it sounds like a lot of those ideas you have here are worth looking into more.
Good job
I might have to try it
Keep the wheels turning. I cant wait to see what you come up with next. 😊 😷⚒
I would love to hear about it if you do!
Great job Jared, That will be such a useful video for rockhounds on a budget 👏
I'm glad you liked it!
Maybe put on a layer of clear epoxy first and then add the diamond solution after that’s dry. It probably soaks into the belt.
They make silicone brushes that wouldn’t fall apart on the belt. Basically this is the way people make those really cool looking water cups with all the glitter and stuff.
Our friend is trying this with nova wheels once they are worn down to nothing. I love finding ways to make this hobby a bit more affordable.
Now that I know how much soaks into the belt I think that would have been best.
The issues I had with these throw away brushes was not the best at all and I will have to find one of those silicone brushes.
There are epoxy colored part B die, red, green, blue, Etc. I would consider making a tray to roll the blank belt in (where did you get those blanks at anyway??) also you can add no more than 10% pure 98% or better alcohol to thin the epoxy. I have tried spraying with an airbrush vinyl (fake leather) sheet material that has a fuzz like velcro backing surface. Seems to be working for a light cut & polish. 1.0-0.5 micron diamond. For my Hi Tech 6" disk. Thanks for the video, tip...counter top bread makers have a great AC motor that is brushless. The lower half is a steel bulkhead works combined with a wood second half making up a dynamite rock tumbler. Currently using a 6" PVC section w/ end caps.
Liked it? Loved it! You sir, are nothing short of a genius
Thank you!
I absolutely love your videos. Appreciate all the information shared in a ‘real’ manner!! Thank you
I look forward to the day when I can actually support your work
Thank you for the kind words!
I do my best around here, and I'm glad people like the videos.
Ingenius economical no expensive or heavy equipment required, no lathes or welding-EXCELLENT! A very doable project for my skill level and budget. I will have to improvise for an expandable drum wheel or a substitute-I am not afraid to experiment a bit -limiting waste is key. Thanks Jared!
I think what I did here could also really be improved on, I think a better bush would be nice as well as a better system for turning the wheel would be good.
Start with the finest grit and work your way toward the coarsest. There is no need to clean in between. Can't contaminate a coarse grit with a finer one. Thanks for sharing. Learning about something I've been curious about, but haven't taken the plunge
If you start with the finest diamonds 3000 you should do 1500 next and work your way to the corest you don't have to worry about the wrong diamond being on the wrong wheel.
I do plan on making more just like this.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this useful information with us. Love seeing all your new projects.
I'm glad you liked it!
ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE concept and thank you so much for showing us the whole process! Do you think this technique would work to make flat laps (as that’s the only equipment I’ve got)? I’m not sure what to make the base out of, not sure if it should have some flexibility?? Epoxy is already so brittle that maybe a rigid substrate like scuffed acrylic would be a good choice? Anyway, you have definitely got me inspired!
You come up with some good ideas and buck the "system" and i like your DIY spirit. I'm thinking if this works on belts, then why not on 6 to 8 inch discs for laps. Thanks for your efforts 👌
Thank you!
Epoxy can be hardened using ozone and / or heat. UV sometimes helps it to polymerize.
Interesting, I will have to look into that. Thank you!
@@CurrentlyRockhounding This is true, but it might be a specific type of epoxy that cures with UV. I hope it works with all of them though.
Alumalite dyes are more concentrated, 1 drop will definitely show up through the diamond dust. I wonder if you can do a light coat of just epoxy, let that cure for 4-6 hours, then recoat with the diamond mixture.
Adding a acetone a few drops at a time until the 220 glue is an easier to apply to the wheel might make it go smoother.
Acetone won't ruin the curing process?
I’d go ahead and try that one that was sticky just because it’s sticky doesn’t mean that it’s not gonna work it means that there was enough Hardner in the whatever the topcoat him or you have on that and it’s that you can also just mix a little bit more up put it on top and harden it
I really chalked it up as a loss but I don't see any harm in giving that a try. Thank you for the idea.
Great video. I love your out of the box thinking.
Thank you!
Always a valuable learning experience … thanks
Thanks and nice shop ya got there
I'm glad you liked it.
Great video!
Thank you.
Very nice. Thanks
Thank you!
Just wow!
WOW, great shine
Thank you!
Love your channel! Your creativity is inspiring. Suggest dying the belts before you start applying the epoxy. A few years ago I heard someone suggest using cold galvanizing compound spray and diamond to rejuvenate flat laps and galaxy wheels. I haven't tried yet, but intend to after a few more pressing projects are finished. Keep up the great work!!
Hmmm that's an interesting concept.
If you try it I would love hear about it.
Just subscribed. I can see definite application of this to my cabbing work.
I'm glad you found it to be helpful.
ideas to ponder
pre coat the belt die may be seen diamond will be on the surface
acetone will thin epoxy
hope this helps as i will try this
urd best tuber
I really didn't think of thinning the epoxy out but that would have really helped.
Great video…thanks!
That’s why you start with the highest grit # , then you shouldn’t have a problem with cross contamination.
You might go for a 1" putty knife to apply and a 3" to evenly ?, spread. You might upgrade the arbor to better hold the wheel. That stuff is thick.
So similar to frosting a cake type motion? Yes that could possibly work. Good idea in my opinion.
That very likely would have been a better way to go here with it. Pretty much I'm learning as I go with this.
Oh Hell Yea!
Wow what a project! 🤔 you could definitely streamline the process but I’d say that’s a huge success!
Oh for sure there is better ways to do this I think and I hope to see other people take the concept here and make it better.
Thanks for sharing
Wow, very nice!
Thank you!
I really want to learn how to electroplate diamond on to steel for making bits and burrs.
I would also like to learn how to do that.
Very good video.
I'm glad you liked it.
I wonder if you could do this for the wheels you already have but have blow outs or cracks and just put a thin coat with diamond on
You can and people do!
Hey Jared.. what a great idea. Love the out-of-the-box ideas and concept's you mull over, experiment, and then share with us the results. With that said, if I recall correctly, the whole idea was to not have the problems that can be associated with "Cerium Oxide". Watching you DIY and creating your own belts got me wondering if the same idea could be applied (concept-wise) to creating a epoxy-based Cerium or even a Tin Oxide belt? I'm just talking outloud here..
Really enjoyed his episode and wish you continued success!
That is a really neat idea and something I really haven't considered but I think it is something worth exploring.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding HP does make a Cerium Oxide belt for one of there machine, so it can be done. Scott Wilkins uses one on his channel if you want to see it in action.
I had a thought and I thought I'd run it by you to see if you think it's feasible. I think that, depending on the consistency of the quartzite, it should be possible to mill out an AR-15 lower receiver. It's a part that does not undergo any pressure other than the rear tower that houses the recoil assembly and I believe that it might be possible to handle that stress or the tower could be milled with extra thickness if needed.
That's an interesting concept but it might be rather hard to pull off and the end result might not fully function.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding wish I knew someone with a 5 axis cnc that could handle rock...
@@savage1r Sintered bits should do it.
After reading some of the other's comments, how about this. get a wide putty knife and bend the edges right at the width of the belt so it looks like an elongated U L_______l. Then attach a spring to keep it in contact with the belt/drum with light pressure. Then you can drizzle the epoxy onto the belt and let the spring loaded putty knife do the spreading. It will also keep the drum/belt aligned by the bent up edges. Obviously you would remove it at some point so as not to epoxy it to the wheel.
Ohhh I like that idea!
@@CurrentlyRockhounding
Thanks for all the tips guys, peace and best wishes to you all from a fellow Rockhound in Ireland 👍🏻
You are the man and what great idea to make your own belts. Thank you for all your hard work and teaching us these very cool tricks.
Thank you for being here watching the videos, without viewers nothing like this happens.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding I usually consider myself pretty resourceful and cheap, but I have met my match and bow down before your omnipotent presence.
@@ambkbero2 Ha!
I wonder if that would work for flat lap disks?
I don't see why you couldn't do this to a soft resin lap.
I think if you used a rubber brayer to coat the belt like putting ink on a running printing press.
Thank you! I will look into it.
Another great video, Thanks
You rock, Thank you:)
I'm glad you liked it.
Do you think it would help to put a layer of epoxy down before mixing in any diamond powder?
I do think that would be good.
Awesome video!! Thanks for the solid information!!👍😎👻🤪🌶
I may go with flat laps rather than wheels -easier for the machines I am using, I may have to recalculate the formula is all to cover a different size area and I can crunch a few numbers and give it a go!
I think a flat lap would also be well worth testing this concept out on. I would love to hear how it goes for you.
Yeah, I think I'll also try this on my homemade 10" flat lap machine.
Great video
Gives me ideas , thank you
I'm thinking the cold weather caused issues with the 1st belt not drying also possible the amount of material mixed with the epoxy caused it to not cure.
But it sounds like the BSI epoxy did the trick. 👍👍
BSI is the best glues for everything with the exception of E6000. Lol
Yeah the weather sure could have been a factor. I think in the perfect world it would have been done in a climate controlled space.
kindly, what is the amount of glue u put on 15g dimoned?
My diamonds are en-route. Totally stealing all the good ideas and suggestions. Thx for video.
Do it! Part of the reason I make these videos is so that people can piggy back on the work I have done and hopefully I can do the same when other people take it and make improvements.
Btw I just mix in acrylic paint and it works just fine as a dye.
Over time I realized that acrylic paint can actually make the epoxy harder (maybe more brittle). Acrylic will also decrease the cure time with 10% added, as you increase it will cause the epoxy to become clumpy and harden almost instantly when you add a 1/1 ratio of acrylic to epoxy. Interesting stuff to play with.
I wonder if you could thin the epoxy with acetone and then spray it on with an airbrush?
Maybe? I really don't know much about things like that.
Air brushes are typically gravity fed. In a low viscosity fluid, the diamonds would probably fall out of suspension too fast. However, still a really good idea with one small modification. Put epoxy on first, then spray on the diamonds with a spray gun used for etching glass. Would need to lower air pressure considerably. .... hrmmmmm, might work.
@bentationfunkiloglio8485 thank you for that great input!
@@bentationfunkiloglio And wear a REALLY good respirator!No fun breathing diamond dust into your lungs!!!
you could even apply to old worn-out nova wheels
You can for sure recoat wheels like those.
great Vid, What would you use to make a nova disk?
That's a good question, I haven't tried its with any flat discs.
What if you used a big plastic putty knife and let the belt spin around although I think it’s lose fit cause no speed to hold the belt.
That would have likely been better.
What if you did a initial epoxy layer without diamond grit to get established and then apply second coat with diamond grit?
I think that is a much better way to do it.
I do this but with food.
I see it + I like it + I’ll use it = I need it = I eventually make it.
Thanks for the how to! Please continue with the how too's. What RPM is the loritone drum unit?
I'm glad you liked it!
My Lortone arbor is running at 1800rpm.
Nice video Jared! Have you made smaller diamond wheels, 1 in for detail work?
I have not done this for smaller wheels.
I wonder if you heated the mixture a little bit if it would mix and spread easier for you? Great video. Thanks
That could help and its something I should test out.
Heat may accelerate the epoxy cure time? Not too much of a problem as you are using a slow cure epoxy though.
Heat will help, but too much heat can cause the epoxy to become brittle.
So now that it has been a few days, how are the belts lasting? I am assuming that you made this is march or so because of the heavy clothes.
What I have noticed is that the belts tend to work the best from 230 to 2k or so. I have a hard time making the 3k belts last without giving extra light scratches from the hard epoxy. I have also found that I need to take a 60 grit sand paper to the belts to even out the wear sometimes.
It has actually been several months, I made the belts in April 2023 and this video finished up in mid June 2023.
What epoxy are you using?
Spray the sticky belt with zap a gap catalyst and it will cure.
Just curious how these brlts are holding up if you are still using them.
They have held up great.
Great video! Did you happen to look at the belts with your microscope to see the concentration, distribution and exposure (from under the epoxy) of the diamonds? Wonder how that is going to change over use....
I did and the concentration seem even, its a little hard to tell really but they seem perfectly fine to me.
I've never used belts before, only diamond resin wheels. What's the benefit to using belts? Just price?
Price and selection of what you want.
Most wheels you buy I believe have 5-7 carats
Interesting process. Since it’s a cloth belt, why not pre mark the belt with a marker to show the grit size rather than use die.
I did that on the inside but I guess I was hoping that the color would make it really easy to know which one is which.
Cool idea! Did you make an 8000? I like to use that between the 3000 and the 14000.
I have not yet but I would like to.
Jared, can you give us on update on the pads? I have still been making at least one pad a week since May or so, but I still scratching my head on the 1.2k + belts as I said in another comment the epoxy by itself slightly scratch my stones, even agates. For three longest time I thought it was best they weren't evenly coated, so I have spent several months now try to get the perfect formal and perfectly smooth coats. What I have found is that even if I spend an hour sanding my belts and get them a smooth as I can, they will only work for a stone or two and then they start to scratch my stones again. I have used Bsrezn Clear Epoxy Resin 24OZ and the resin is really strong and will cut many stones before a needing a new coat. My 60grit belts are a beast and cut fast, take a beating and my first one is lasting since June with plenty of wear left. I have been using the 60grit every other day for an hour or so. Pretty impressive. I am NOT so impressed with my 1200 grit, 2,000 gritand espcially my 3, 24:32 24:32 24:32 000 grit. I have experimented with 100% silicone, with E-6000, and some rubber putty all of which are great materials, just difficult to work with for this application. The E6000 works well for smaller applications like 5in pads, and the silicone might work for belts, but both have a small window of workable time.
If Bob Smith Industries is still working for your belts, let us all know. Just curious if your thunder eggs or other stones with sharp edges have made groves that affect performance.
My friend is wanting to make his own but I am going to caution him from using just any epoxy espcially for higher grit pads/belts. Would you recommend the Bob Smith industries epoxy?
Where is a good source for repurposing low RPM motors?
I have had no issues with the belts that I have made using the BSI epoxy.
How exactly are you sure that your scratches are coming from the epoxy?
Also you shouldn't ever be taking sharp edges to soft belts, or pads of anything kind. That kind of work is best left for hard wheels.
When you say "low RPM motor" what are you looking for and to do what exactly? Any motor can be speed adjusted with pulleys.
So, when I say it is the epoxy that scratches it, I mean I have made an epoxy pad with just epoxy and one with epoxy that I purposely made slightly rough. I was able to get the rough epoxy scratch an agate that I had gotten up to a 2k grit. It made noticable scratches and I didn't even press hard. I did this because I couldn't figure out why my smooth stones with no rough edges would be perfectly fine at 1200 grit but then get scratches sometimes after using the 2kgrit or 3kgrit diamond belts.
Concerning the motor, I meant the little motor that you used to spin your wheel while the epoxy dries.
😳I'm surprised the "Harbor Freight Specials" actually had any bristles left at the end
They do suck a little bit but they did work but nicer ones would have been an improvement.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding A little CA glue applied where the bristles come out of the handle, sprinkle a little baking soda on the area and you have instantly cured glue with bristles fixed in place. Do a small batch for efficiency.
@@DonariaRegia Dang! That's a really smart idea! Thank you for that.
I'm considering doing this to re-coat some Cab King 6 inch wheels that are 1.5 inch wide. That would take quite a bit less than what you used for these belts. Any recommendation for the weight of epoxy and carats for that size compared to what you mixed?
That is a good question. You could try doing half of what I did. Also you will want to clean those wheels really really well before doing it. I would wash them really well with hot water and dish soap and then wipe them down with some alcohol. You want them to be dirt and oil free for maximum adherence.
How did this work out for you using the 6 inch wheels? I'm going to try it with all my old 8 inch rez wheels. I can't see it being any different than a flexible belt.
Thank you for sharing as always sir. Also am curious how much time was involved in getting parts, putting together the equipment you used and actually coating the belts? Also, am not sure I understand all the math involved. You mention that you were holding three containers with 100cts of diamonds....that = 33.333cts per jar and you said it was $70 for the three jars or $23.33 per jar. If you used 30cts of diamonds per belt and the jar has 33.333cts it would seem that you used around $20 of diamonds per belt...is that accurate? Thanks again!
Each one of those containers were 100cts, so 300 in total.
So the exact math break down of price was $22.07 per 100cts x 3 which is $66.21 total.
Using about 30 cts per belt to establish the belt comes to a diamond price of $6.62, and then add the resin and the actual belt.
It wasn't a lot of time spent on the project really, I mean most of the time was spent waiting for them to cure and figuring out that to get them made it kind of needs to be done twice.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Good to know. Thank you!
You should try thinning out the epoxy and doing many light coats. I have a friend that did this but gave up as he could get them from someone else that also makes them for about the same price but does not waste time and stick with the core hobby.
I bought 8" belts from Kingsley North several years ago and used them a maximum of 10 times before they broke at the seam. I would much rather do this than waste money.
Yeah, they should be last a great deal longer than that. I still have and run these belts I made in this video. They can just be re-coated over and over again.
Jarrod Rod Joyce from PELICAN La,👍💯🙏
Jared I have been waiting for this video! bout damn time!! Kidding, seriously though I have been and I have known all along that the reason for the high prices on this stuff is it is a small market! Anyone who thinks it's because of the diamonds doesn't have a good foot hold into reality. I will check out the links you have provided. I absolutely intend on making my own, I have worked with epoxy's potting electronics for aviation. I am at least familiar with epoxies and mixing..Just need to go through the learning curve myself. Thanks for doing this, it is long long overdue. With the Chinese in the market, companies like Diamond Pacific really need to look into themselves because the market in my and many others is way overpriced and due for an adjustment. This is hopefully the starting point..Thanks again.
I think this process could be refined for sure and from reading peoples comments here I already have ideas on how to make it better.
I'm not familiar with them at or mixing them so I likely could have done this better but my hope here is that people see what I did and improve on the concept.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Those belts that ended up tacky, did you try a low temp bake? That could help them to cure, the tackiness could be from not mixing enough or not enough hardener. Is the ratio for mixing the epoxy one to one?
Couldn't you use a foam roller and spin it
It is way too thick for that.