Oils are also great because they have long shelf life compared to enamels. Some of the enamel stuff I bought years ago, I used it once, then didn't touch it for a few years and when I wanted to use them again, they were dried out or deteriorated. That being said, I still enjoy working with pre-mixed enamel stuff more, especially when it comes to pin washes, but that's a completely personal preference thing. You can create amazing weathering effects like dust and rainmarks with Tamiya acrylics if you thin them with soapy water and apply them by brush in many thin layers without blending, I personally think the results are even better than enamels or pigments. They could be possibly used for washes as well if you'd moisten the surface with water and then just apply them as pinwash, but I don't really see a reason for that if the modeller's health allows to use enamels or oils, because they're just superior in every aspect when it comes to techniques where blending or clean-up is necessary.
+Night Shift I agree Martin. I actually just found the video of you discussing dust weathering the other day. I hope everybody else reads this who disagrees with me...since they can't seem to tell the difference between my choice of the word "shouldn't" rather than "can't" in the video title.
@@Panzermeister36 There's a video like that somewhere? :D "Shouldn't" vs "can't" could become a veeeery long discussion, because no matter how impossible something might look, there's always someone who can pull it off and blow everyone's minds. But then again it comes down to what I said in the last sentence. If there's something that works best for the specific task, then why would you not use it, if, again, health or other reasons are not an issue. I also believe it's important to first know and understand the rules before you try to break them, which again applies to the topic of this video.
Good explanation there Evan. Of course one CAN use acrylics for weathering, one just has to do it a lot differently than people tend to think, which can be a hassle. Afterall, i have seen people using color crayons, ink, earth from outside and a lot more to weather a model, and it all works as long as you know what you are doing. As you explained, oils and enamels tend to be easier to work with these days, so thats what is usually recommended, which is exactly the point of your vid.
I just came across your video, and thank you so much! Your explanation was way better than anyone else I've come across. I didn't really understand why my acrylic base coat and varnish was being damaged after using acrylics for weathering. I can't wait to try it out!
This video helped me out alot! Great explanation of the different type of paints and how and when to use them. I mainly work on gunpla models and only have been for about a year now. I found your channel because I wanted to learn more about weathering. I was using acrylics on my painted build and didn't like the results or the process. I'm gonna go out and get some oil paints tomorrow. Thank you very much!
Good video but I must say I have used acrylics for weathering on my models for several years with NO problems. I use a retarder when using them and really like them. Pin wash is the same. Always acrylics. I can't do to many smells like oils give off so I had to figure out how to do it with acrylics. Thanks for sharing...
Excellent video, clears up some of the confusion out there when it comes to weathering and materials. Perfect plain jane explanation of something that I believe puts off new builders .After years of building like Uncle Night Shift can do you will learn by trial and error in weathering your models over time. Just watch and learn from others like him Just remember it's suppose to be FUN, don't overload your mind with all that's out there ! I've been building for over 50 years and there's always something new to learn. With all the bottles of this and bottles of that on the market one should remember the old saying "Keep It Simple Stupid" (KISS). Sometimes less is more. Thank you for your video, I enjoyed it with a smile on my face ! Cheers
This was a great description of so many different types of paints and an excellent source of education for all model builder skill levels. Thank you for this.
First off, thank you for your time to provide an excellent explanation of your experience with weathering. I read through the other responses and it is clear that there are others who have techniques they prefer using acrylic paint. I don't think any of the responses detract from your method. And please ignore the flamer that instigated your latest post. Thanks again.
Thanks for this and good timing for me. I just competed my first build after numerous years, like 30 lol. An Italeri Puma armoured car. I tried the wash techniques with the acrylic and working time is terrible, drying way too fast. I started using the oils when I stopped years ago and now will go back to using them again.
Pff great video. I almost ruined two Schneider CA1 that I very much treasure adding to my WW1 French Army. I was pin washing and dry brushing with acrylics, thinned down, on top of a semi gloss satin varnish. Started to wipe away excess that stubbornly didn't move. I thought "uh oh" because they had a hand brushed camo on em which turned out pre good. I got what I wanted off then thought they looked okay - I saved them from destruction. But then I stopped. I said "okay something's off, it's not working." The first time (and only other time) I pin washed and dry brushed with acrylic turned out pretty good - must have got lucky for sure - and this was not the case here. So I stopped and youtube'd weathering tanks. Found this right at the top and went "boom, there ya go. there's my answer." I thank you for this content from one proud military history nerd and miniature hobbyist to another.
I am new to weathering with paints, I’ve used mainly powdered pastels in the past. I recently have been doing a lot of experimenting with different techniques and materials, and contrary to the many videos which say to use acrylics, I am finding that acrylics totally suck for almost any kind of weathering, and my best results have been with oils. I have watched many of your videos, and I very much admire your modelling and weathering skills. Hearing you say the same things in this video that I have been discovering for myself is great because it helps me to know that I’m moving in the right direction. Thank you for making these videos, I have learned so much from you.
Another great and informative tutorial Evan. I do enjoy watching your videos. You put it out there straight and to the point. There are many new model builders out there right now wiping sweat off of their foreheads and saying thank you. Nice work buddy.
Interesting topic Evan. Your video will make life of beginner modelers much easier but I need to say a few my opinions. 1. Acrylic filters are ok. I'm using this technique Very well thinned acrylic paint is not bad for filter and dry fast. 2. You forgot to say that enamels dry a lot faster than oils. 3. When you compared oils and enamel effects you didn't mentioned about one thing: when you buy weathering enamel you get the right colour, when you choose oils you need to know which color will be ok for your model and color of base paint. That's why eathering enamels are better for beginners in my opinion.
Good stuff, Evan. I think most of us have fallen into the trap of trying to find the elusive miracle product to make weathering easier. I have quite a few products that I will probably never use again because simpler products (i.e., oils) are cheaper and easier to use.
Wow! If I can't get the idea regarding acrylic washes (why they don't work) and the adaptability of oil paints from your video, I never will. Now I know you laboured on some stuff, but I think you did great to get your point across and I found it helpful.
I really enjoy watching your videos and listening to your advice! It’s very helpful! Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge and experiences! For weathering I use Revell’s pigments. Best regards from Germany Panzermeister! Keep up the excellent work please and have a quick recovery from your cold!
Airable 1 Cool! I mostly customize Star Wars figures and vehicles, build dioramas and displays. I actually started model building with tanks in 1/72 scale and still build one once in a while. I just love 1/72 scale tanks, helicopters and fighter jets and build dioramas for these, too. I use washes from Citadel for weathering and also paint mostly with Citadel and Revell paints. Vallejo and Model Master have a great selection, too! Not to forget humbrol. I would really like to try enamel paints from Tamiya some day.
@@legion078 yeah! I make a lot of different things like 1 72 armour, planes and dioramas , i also make 1 35 figures and armour from tamiya! I use mostly humbrol, revell and vallejo!
Sir, I'm so glad I ran across your video because I was getting ready to go buy a bunch of stuff I don't need. I'm a 66 year old guy getting back into scale modeling after years away. Use to buy AMT cars for 2 dollars and a tube of testors glue for.15 cents and go at it. 😂 How times have changed. Looking at some Tamiya Armor now. Looking forward to the journey. And I subscribed to your channel. Let's see if a old dog can still learn some tricks. 👍😊
I think the main problem is that some modelers (used to) have enough money to buy all those convenience products. If everybody had to model on a small budget nobody would ever use them. The biggest disadvantage seems to be that beginners never learn how to use the "old" techniques and advanced modelers forget about them. People are often tempted to go the "lazy" way. Maybe the inflation will make your tips more appreciated than ever. I watched quite a lot of your vids recently and I found your weathering tips very well explained and helpful. And I like your "old-fashioned" approach very much, especially since I don't think much of the Spanish way of painting and weathering. To me it looks cartoonish and not realistic at all.
Great points Evan, thanks for making this video. I find that a lot of technique books try to promote products and therefore try to cram numerous types of products in when illustrating the different stages of the weathering process, rather than just stating the most cost effective option (ie oils). Your video cuts through the marketing. Thanks for making this.
I just purchased my W&N oil paints and I'm waiting for them to come in. My wife also is an artist only she uses water colors. I'm glad to see so many folks backing up this amazing video.
I’m not surprised a few people have thumbs down, but what you say is true. I’ve tried various acrylic products and the worry is that your can’t reactivate once they are dry and are it able to blend or tweak (in my opinion). Very sensible advice Evan. Good video mate
Great explanation! I was curious why you used oils, and now it is completely clear. You saved me ruining my first model... at least with acrylic weathering! :-)
Hi Mr. Stug ... many thanks for the nice and detailed expenation about the pros & cons of oil and acryl paints. And many thanks for sharing your experience ... watching your tutorials is helping me a lot to improve my modeling skills ... thanks for sharing :-) ... cheers Make*
IMHO this is good advice for newcomers who are starting to do weathering. I have always preferred to use oil or enamels for washes and dot filters. I tried the acrylic sludge wash and I did not like the results. I will try it again sometime since I like to have other options and effects. Acrylics can be used for certain weather effects but I would not recommend them to a complete newcomer unless they practice with it first. I do like acrylics to simulate dust for example ( airbrush ), since pastels can fade over time or disappear altogether when you spray an overcoat. I know there are ways to get the pastels to stay but I find the acrylic dusting technique a lot easier. Acrylic behavior varies from brand to brand and the technique that works on one will work on another. Vallejo is probably the easiest to work with if you want to try your hand at acrylic weathering. Tamiya is solvent based and will dry very quickly. If you make a mistake with oils or enamels it is very forgiving compared to acrylics which could require another coat of paint or even a complete stripping. Read the comments and there are some good acrylic weathering ideas I want to try out.
These days, come to me, two products I never use: Streacking grime from Vallejo (Acrylic) and the same for MIG (Enamel). The acrylic product dry in one second and stand in the tank until today....No water, no Isopropyl alcohol, no odorless thinner, nothing moving from the surface (I still not use benzin, acetone or lighter fluid). The enamel one, moves easily with the odorless thinner.
Excellent explanation, I totally agree. I have all those fancy enamel washes, filters etc too and they work fine. However, I often find myself adding thinner to these products anyway because it doesn't have the right 'consistency'. I do like the colours though and mixing paints to get the colour I need is not really my thing. I bought a lot of the Abteilung oil-paints for that exact reason. I'm weathering model trains by the way, but I did buy a Pz. Kpfw. III today (Dragon). I guess watching all these videos about weathering tanks ultimately makes you buy those kits :-)
Good advice. Yes oils or enamels are definitely the way to go. I’ve been using them since the late 70’s. I’m going to be working on our collab this week.
Longer dry & cure times will help as can lighter coats. If you can smell the paint you can wait. It can take days or even weeks and months depending on whats happening. Some lights or a drying aparatus such as a hearing aid dryer can help speed things up but can have ill effects as well, slowing the drying or curing.
'Newbie alert'...... I'd be grateful if you or someone could inform me of what thinner you are using with the oils. My wife has loads of oils so I don't need to buy any, but 'thinners'...., rather know what you use. I Haven't built a model since childhood & I'm just turned sixty two & 'revisiting' this hobby with a more patient outlook. Any help I would be grateful for. Best wishes & great video. By the way, I'm going to build & hopefully, paint a P51d mustang in the colour scheme of the 'Tuskegee' airmen.
+Garry Hill I'm not sure if I mentioned this in the video, but I use Wilder enamel thinner and sometimes AK Interactive White Spirits. Another option which should honestly work just as well is using lighter fluid...seriously. Zippo lighter fluid is very similar to the Wilder thinner and plenty of modelers just use that instead - Hamilkar Barkas does for example. Just don't make the same mistake as so many others and use acrylic thinner for the oils. That won't thin them down and will instead damage the previous paint since those paints are likely acrylics and the thinner is meant to thin those down.
A famous Germany general Von Bismarck said. " A fool leans by his own mistakes, I learn by the mistakes of others!" So as your Mom used to say to you. "If Billy puts his hand in the fire do you have to? No! Then as the man says, advice is advice take it or leave it, but you'd be stupid to ignore it! So how stupid are you? Thanks Panzermeister, good lesson, offered generously and received respectfully!
Ive tried weathering sand and dust with acrylic Tamiya paints and water. It is actually possible, but like you say, it dries super fast almost instantly and is difficult to manipulate or remove afterwards. A good tip is to have an old or broken vehicle/model you dont care about and keep that one to test different techniques out on. That was how i discovered acrylic paints were basically useless for weathering effects. Thanks for your videos. Ive learned some cool stuff from you. Your work looks really professional. What kind of top coat would you use to seal weathering powders?
Excellent video. Yes acrylic based products and enamel/oil based products are what is called "non-miscible". Meaning they do not form a solution. Which is an excellent property for modelling because they can come into contact with other without reacting. I wish I had seen this video when I first started modelling, because I certainly did some pretty weird things in the name of weathering.
OMG!!! I'm the rude person you mentioned. After several months and a few ruined models I apologise for my previous comment accusing you of being pretentious for using oils. I dodn't know what I was talking about. At least it spurred you to create another great and informative video - silver lining and all that. ;) I agree wholeheartedly with you about oils being best. Sorry for being an arse in my old comment. Thanks for your great videos. :)
+Spugnoid yes, but this video is aimed at beginners, and I used the word "shouldn't" not "can't". You can use acrylics, but you can usually achieve the same effects with much greater control and much less effort using oils or enamels instead.
Panzer , there's still time ! Canada like everywhere else needs good teachers ! Love your work ! Looking forward to your next build . What about putting the wheels on 6252 Tiger 1🤔 Timony47.
I agree with the durability argument....a Perkasa radio control patrol boat I painted in 1977 with enamels is a salient point BUT the fast drying acrylic argument doesn't hold water..excuse the pun. I decided to go down the acrylic route for two reasons and those alone.....ease of use and above all safety. Yes, the Vallejo paints I use aren't cheap, but what price your health? Moreover, I don't see any spray booth on the bench and he's breathing in those fumes? He seems a keen modeler, so will be breathing those volatile products for longer. I have an off-the-shelf bottle for cleaning through my spray guns with water or Vallejo thinners....safety and ease of use and when you see the number of modelers online who use acrylics for weathering, this argument simply doesn't stand up to scrutiny, nuff said :)
(I appreciate this is an old video!) I think a lot of reliance on acrylic paint comes from the gaming hobby, where they are effectively 'the' paint. This means anyone that has been interested in GW, Privateer Press etc. comes to different projects having only really been shown acrylics (I used to paint for 'eavy metal, so I feel like I can talk about the subject with some knowledge). If you look at the weathering effects that even the best gaming painters use, they tend to be pretty cartoony (dark spot, low light, highlight etc.). I know this, because I'm currently going through the process. I've painted gaming miniatures for over 20 years and whilst I might have some 'off meta' products like W&N inks, I honestly didn't know anything about oils and enamels. We don't discuss them in painting forums, we don't get exposed to them in the hobby. I wanted to take on some 'realistic' miniatures as a project so started watching Night Shift and you to gain some insight into how the more realistic 'scale model' painters were applying techniques. Honestly, it's felt as much science lesson as art lesson and I'm currently having a lot of fun combining all of these things. Maybe I'm just a boomer that doesn't watch enough UA-cam, but as you have done GW yourself in the past, maybe a 'crossover' video that talks about the differences between traditional 'gaming' painting and 'scale model' painting might be useful? Keep up the awesome work.
Thank you! I will be doing that 40K Space Marines predator I showed recently in a video. I am not sure which "way" I will paint it. i.e. wargaming style or a more realistic style. I think first I will ask my viewers what they would prefer to see...
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you for the reply, it's been a genuine pleasure watching both yourself and Martin (your videos, let's not get creepy!!). Personally, I'd be tempted to paint it in your normal style and then drop finished pictures of it into a few of the better known online miniature forums (dakka, coolminiornot etc.) I think a 'realistic' GW tank would be well received and it might bring gaming painters eager to learn across to the channel.
I use to mix Tamiya acrylics with water years ago for washes (10% paint 90% water) and it was ok,but not as good as oil paints.This was mid 80's before the commercial washes of today.
Yep. I'm 50, and started doing the same in the mid-80's as a teenager using the old Polly S water-based weathering colors over the then-new Tamiya alcohol-based acrylics. It never worked well at all even though I heavily thinned the weathering colors with a 90-10 thinner-to-paint ratio mixture of denatured alcohol, distilled water and Lemon Joy dish detergent, (to break up the Surface Tension). The thinned Polly S would always look great when first applied, but would dry quickly and unevenly, and for myself at least, appear quite blotchy and unrealistic. It only took having to strip and repaint a couple of large-sized 1/35 Armor Builds before I went back to weathering with artist's oils for good!
I download your begginer weathering serries .. i just want to let you know so you know you are very good at it, and thanks for sharing usefull skills for us and me personally.. thank you.. i hope you dont mind i download it so i can easyly play and replay if i need too..
Great video. Yup... Don't want to use Tamiya acrylics to weather over a Tamiya acrylic base coat. Gotta remember tho that Tamiya "acrylics" are not like most acrylic paints. Their pigment is suspended in alcohol, while most acrylics suspend their pigments in water. I haven't tried it, but you could, in theory, apply weathering over a Tamiya base coat with a regular acrylic like Vallejo.
You can still weather with acrylics, but it's harder, because you clean it up by covering it up with the base color, rather than trying to remove it with thinner. Mostly used by mini painters, where the amount of cleanup is a lot less than scale models which are much larger.
Yes, you are correct! I just would not recommend it, especially for people who are starting out. It's a lot more work and requires more skill. That's why I said "shouldn't" not "can't" :)
If im using a flat brush to apply my thinned base coats to the model would you say enamel paints are best or acrylic? I've only used acrylics and just wondered if enamels are better if youre brush painting your base coats. And can i ask, do the oil paints youre using dry with a matte finish or glossy look to them?
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks very much, Panzermeister. Really appreciate your help. I'll continue with the acrylics. And today im going to buy a set of oils. Hopefully I find a good set for a nice price. Thanks again for all the help :)
I watch moust of your videos and i like it :) I got one guestion - usually i paint with ammo paints but now i try with tamiya XF - i cant achiewed this fine scratch efect -hair lacuer ,tamiya pealed off to much and on ammo fluids - its hard to remove. Can you help me ?
It actually depends on what paint you used to paint the vehicle, it's no use trying to weather with Enamels if you painted the vehicle with an enamel paint if you are not experienced and don't really know what you're doing, same goes for Oils. I know a few people who paint their tank with oil and or Enamel paint and use Acrylics for weathering. You really just have to use an opposite paint to that you painted the vehicle in.
My henglong tank I just bought is shiny plastic, no acrylic base coat. would the acrylic still cause mishap beyond compare? I just bought a bunch of the Tamya acrylics from Hobby King following your advice on colors, and now it sounds like I just wasted my money... oh, also i'm only going to be doing this on one model, and didn't really want to stock up on stuff that lasts forever.
Acrylic washes are fine for mud and sand if you don't want to clean it up and just want it messy, but if you want to finely detail and shape it, use oil or enamel.
Hi. Great follow-up video. Regarding using oil paints for weathering because they stay wet and thus can be used/worked with for a longer period of time, how do you eventually "set" it or "fix" it so that it dries? I was looking at a Windsor and Newton matte fixative and it says to wait until the paint is dry which can be 6-9 months. What have you used? Where in your process do you use the oils so that they don't become an issue for you as you continue to work?
Oil paints may take months to dry when they're used the way a painter would....applied thicky on canvas. It is recommended that modelers let the small blobs of oil paint sit out on a piece of cardboard for 5+ hours to soak out a lot of the linseed oil; this will make them dry faster. We also apply them in much thinner coats of course. Here is an older video of mine which may help you: ua-cam.com/video/uV26I1WQ01U/v-deo.html They're usually dry within 24 hours in my experience, and I just seal the model with matte varnish in the end.
Thank you very much for that. Very informative. When doing an oil wash (pin, dot, wash...whatever) do you varnish (gloss? satin? matt?) your models previously right? I do varnish them with gloss but I have seen people not doing it. What is your view? thanks a lot
So I use enamel base colors and then use acrylic wash to weather or bring out the panel lines and it is impossible to damage the enamel base. Enamel is not water soluble while acrylic is.
i like to use acrylic paints, i find that for base colours and dry brushing they are great. i won't use enamels because they messed up my brushes, haven't used them since.
You ever try Varsol as a thinner for your oils? I used to dabble in oil painting (canvas painting) so for my models I tried Varsol as a thinner for washes and such.
Hi, can I just say I think your work is superb. I have a question. If I want to use enamel filters over an acrylic paint, what Varnish should I use to protect the acrylic paint ? Thanks in advance.
Good evening in your opinion which name brand oils would recommend for ease of use I have not used any oils question wounldnt the lighter fluid attack the plastic of the model ? hope you feel better soon being sick sucks try some honey flavored tea stay the course Bruce
Thanks for posting, very good. As a beginner, can I please just clarify one point? I assume this applies when the model has been painted with acrylic? So if it had been finished in enamels I could weather with acrylic? Thank you.
Well, Im painting my models with brush using Humbrol (before they were covering model very good, now I have to apply 2 layers) or Revell applying 1 to 2 layers, depends. The thing is I cant use oil or enamel wash because it will melt my paint, right? Also I cant protect them with varnish because there will be already too thick coat so I just bought acrylic wash. I will check how it works.
Is Mr Hobby’s Mr Weathering safe to use over Tamiya Acrylics? It’s all Japanese writing so I can’t tell much about it. First I’ve heard of Filler colors. I was thinking of thinning down my Mr Weathering to make it a less intense black. Also do you need to put a gloss coat over Tamiya Acrylics before using Mr Weathering? And if so can it be Tamiya’s clear coats? Or no good?
What kind of varnish are you using? Maybe AMMO or Vallejo? If it's getting eaten by enamel thinner it's a poor quality varnish. Try Tamiya or Mr. Color varnishes.
Hi fellas. I'm very susceptible to the fumes for the oil and enamel thinners. Is there something I can use that is less harmful? You mentioned lighter fluid. Is that as fumy? My other option is water based but don't know how.
There are some water-based oil paints. I have never tried them but they might be a good option for you! I believe they are Winsor & Newton "Artisan" brand.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks. I've been looking at videos where they just use Vallejo acrylics but I hadn't thought of water based oils. Great idea, I'll give it a try.
@panzermeister36 sooo this is a shot in the dark, i got some acrylic wated based paint for my airbrush, i want to use this as my main paint for the body, can i still apply weathering effects with a oilpaint on the top? or will i end up removing the acrylic paint if i messedup some place with the oilpaint and want to fix it?
If you are using water-based acrylics, then you should apply a protective semi-gloss varnish before working with the oils. Otherwise the oil paint thinner may attack the water-based acrylics.
@@Panzermeister36 Thankyou so much. I'm nearing 60 and am trying to get back into the hobby. I scratchbuild buildings for 10mm (N scale railroad) wargaming, so I know a bit about acrylics. Thats all I use. But weathering with them is as you say, a problem. I haven't built a plastic model since my teens. Looking forward to it and more of your videos!
I Weather Model Railroad Equipment which uses all the same techniques as Weathering military equipment. Acrylics seem almost useless to me and just make models look like crap. Ive tried using an acrylic wash with a store bought flow agent and can seem to get good results. The liquid just flows to a place where it can rest and all the acrylic dries up there. Keep in mind this is while giving the model my full attention. Dusting with grinded pastels and laying oil on top for the heavy rust and pitting and streaking seems to give the best results. The only other improvement would be to get an airbrush which I've never tried. Anyone have any tips for how a moderate wash should be? Also I thought you need to use oil to think oil paints.
Actually you can weather with Acryics Mabe not a dot filter or a pin wash but you can do it. Mig done a dvd on this subject. Rob AKA Scratchmod does some amazing weathering with only Acrylics as does josé brito Starting out No do not do it
Yes, as I explained it can be done and there are also special products with which to do it. But saying it can be done doesn't help the people who are struggling with it because they're trying to do common effects that are supposed to be done with oils or enamels.
Just spitballing here but has anyone tried using latex extender with acrylics as a thinner and extender and then use a matte medium to blend the paint as you would use the white spirit on an oil paint? Perhaps moving slower, doing only a few small areas before blending?
OK so.. What I get is this.. Enamel base colors.. Lacquer top coat, gloss??? Oil weathering, with turpentine thinner??? and what type of protective top coat over everything???
+Alan Burquist acrylic base colours. Oil weathering with lighter fluid as a thinner. Lacquer top coat. No need for a protective varnish before oils as they won't affect the acrylics.
@@Panzermeister36 I'm set up for enamels, not acrylic. All my exp is with enamel, at 60+ I'm too old to change now.. I like your oils system, how can I adapt it to enamels???
@@Panzermeister36 I'm not sure if Chris developed or refined the technique of painting on your base layer of weathered color and thinning it down on the model into a wash. it's important to not here that he did or does not use stock thinners, he uses isopropyl alcohol or Windex as his thinning solutions. he then applies a varnish and proceeds to use oils as pin wash or streaks.
I have a question, you need to clear cote or apply any kind of varnish to the model before use the oils or you can apply it without any protection to the paimt work? I have never use oils and i want o start using it, any tips will help a lot:3
+Havanadog 7 you would probably want to apply a lacquer clear varnish beforehand to protect your underlying paints. The rattle can stuff is probably lacquer so that should be okay without the varnish, but I can't say for certain. Then you can use any thinner for the oils. Otherwise, pretty much any oil thinner will attack your enamel paint.
Great video, thanks. I have a problem though; I apply my acrylic base coat then acrylic gloss varnish. But when I try and clean my oil wash the enamel thinner I use starts removing the acrylic base coat? Even though it’s been varnished. Any idea what I’m doing wrong. Thanks
+McNab I would guess that the enamel thinner you are using is too strong, or perhaps you are using very poor varnishes by Vallejo or Mig AMMO. Those are very weak and won't do a good job of protecting your model.
Oils are also great because they have long shelf life compared to enamels. Some of the enamel stuff I bought years ago, I used it once, then didn't touch it for a few years and when I wanted to use them again, they were dried out or deteriorated. That being said, I still enjoy working with pre-mixed enamel stuff more, especially when it comes to pin washes, but that's a completely personal preference thing.
You can create amazing weathering effects like dust and rainmarks with Tamiya acrylics if you thin them with soapy water and apply them by brush in many thin layers without blending, I personally think the results are even better than enamels or pigments.
They could be possibly used for washes as well if you'd moisten the surface with water and then just apply them as pinwash, but I don't really see a reason for that if the modeller's health allows to use enamels or oils, because they're just superior in every aspect when it comes to techniques where blending or clean-up is necessary.
+Night Shift I agree Martin. I actually just found the video of you discussing dust weathering the other day. I hope everybody else reads this who disagrees with me...since they can't seem to tell the difference between my choice of the word "shouldn't" rather than "can't" in the video title.
@@Panzermeister36 There's a video like that somewhere? :D "Shouldn't" vs "can't" could become a veeeery long discussion, because no matter how impossible something might look, there's always someone who can pull it off and blow everyone's minds. But then again it comes down to what I said in the last sentence. If there's something that works best for the specific task, then why would you not use it, if, again, health or other reasons are not an issue. I also believe it's important to first know and understand the rules before you try to break them, which again applies to the topic of this video.
Good explanation there Evan. Of course one CAN use acrylics for weathering, one just has to do it a lot differently than people tend to think, which can be a hassle. Afterall, i have seen people using color crayons, ink, earth from outside and a lot more to weather a model, and it all works as long as you know what you are doing. As you explained, oils and enamels tend to be easier to work with these days, so thats what is usually recommended, which is exactly the point of your vid.
Discovering oil paints has been the best thing to happen to my weathering, they are so forgiving and versatile.
I just came across your video, and thank you so much! Your explanation was way better than anyone else I've come across. I didn't really understand why my acrylic base coat and varnish was being damaged after using acrylics for weathering. I can't wait to try it out!
You have the best clarification/explanation that I have heard in regard to the different weather mediums. I finally understand now. Thank you so much.
Thank you for the positive comment!
Thank you for this, takes the mystrey out of all the confusion around the various paints. Much appreciated!
This video helped me out alot! Great explanation of the different type of paints and how and when to use them. I mainly work on gunpla models and only have been for about a year now. I found your channel because I wanted to learn more about weathering. I was using acrylics on my painted build and didn't like the results or the process. I'm gonna go out and get some oil paints tomorrow. Thank you very much!
Good video but I must say I have used acrylics for weathering on my models for several years with NO problems. I use a retarder when using them and really like them. Pin wash is the same. Always acrylics. I can't do to many smells like oils give off so I had to figure out how to do it with acrylics. Thanks for sharing...
Excellent video, clears up some of the confusion out there when it comes to weathering and materials. Perfect plain jane explanation of something that I believe puts off new builders .After years of building like Uncle Night Shift can do you will learn by trial and error in weathering your models over time. Just watch and learn from others like him Just remember it's suppose to be FUN, don't overload your mind with all that's out there ! I've been building for over 50 years and there's always something new to learn. With all the bottles of this and bottles of that on the market one should remember the old saying "Keep It Simple Stupid" (KISS). Sometimes less is more. Thank you for your video, I enjoyed it with a smile on my face ! Cheers
This was a great description of so many different types of paints and an excellent source of education for all model builder skill levels. Thank you for this.
First off, thank you for your time to provide an excellent explanation of your experience with weathering. I read through the other responses and it is clear that there are others who have techniques they prefer using acrylic paint. I don't think any of the responses detract from your method. And please ignore the flamer that instigated your latest post. Thanks again.
Very smooth video. The best I've seen so far differentiating the various types and applications.
Thanks for this and good timing for me. I just competed my first build after numerous years, like 30 lol. An Italeri Puma armoured car. I tried the wash techniques with the acrylic and working time is terrible, drying way too fast. I started using the oils when I stopped years ago and now will go back to using them again.
Pff great video. I almost ruined two Schneider CA1 that I very much treasure adding to my WW1 French Army. I was pin washing and dry brushing with acrylics, thinned down, on top of a semi gloss satin varnish. Started to wipe away excess that stubbornly didn't move. I thought "uh oh" because they had a hand brushed camo on em which turned out pre good. I got what I wanted off then thought they looked okay - I saved them from destruction. But then I stopped. I said "okay something's off, it's not working." The first time (and only other time) I pin washed and dry brushed with acrylic turned out pretty good - must have got lucky for sure - and this was not the case here. So I stopped and youtube'd weathering tanks. Found this right at the top and went "boom, there ya go. there's my answer." I thank you for this content from one proud military history nerd and miniature hobbyist to another.
I am new to weathering with paints, I’ve used mainly powdered pastels in the past. I recently have been doing a lot of experimenting with different techniques and materials, and contrary to the many videos which say to use acrylics, I am finding that acrylics totally suck for almost any kind of weathering, and my best results have been with oils. I have watched many of your videos, and I very much admire your modelling and weathering skills. Hearing you say the same things in this video that I have been discovering for myself is great because it helps me to know that I’m moving in the right direction. Thank you for making these videos, I have learned so much from you.
+Harry Hilliard thank you very much for the awesome comment :) I'm glad my videos have been helpful to you!
Another great and informative tutorial Evan. I do enjoy watching your videos. You put it out there straight and to the point. There are many new model builders out there right now wiping sweat off of their foreheads and saying thank you. Nice work buddy.
Interesting topic Evan.
Your video will make life of beginner modelers much easier but I need to say a few my opinions.
1. Acrylic filters are ok. I'm using this technique Very well thinned acrylic paint is not bad for filter and dry fast.
2. You forgot to say that enamels dry a lot faster than oils.
3. When you compared oils and enamel effects you didn't mentioned about one thing: when you buy weathering enamel you get the right colour, when you choose oils you need to know which color will be ok for your model and color of base paint. That's why eathering enamels are better for beginners in my opinion.
Good stuff, Evan.
I think most of us have fallen into the trap of trying to find the elusive miracle product to make weathering easier. I have quite a few products that I will probably never use again because simpler products (i.e., oils) are cheaper and easier to use.
Wow! If I can't get the idea regarding acrylic washes (why they don't work) and the adaptability of oil paints from your video, I never will. Now I know you laboured on some stuff, but I think you did great to get your point across and I found it helpful.
I really enjoy watching your videos and listening to your advice! It’s very helpful! Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge and experiences!
For weathering I use Revell’s pigments.
Best regards from Germany Panzermeister!
Keep up the excellent work please and have a quick recovery from your cold!
Hi i use revell pigments as well , good selection of colours and effects!!👍🏻👍🏻
Airable 1 Cool! I mostly customize Star Wars figures and vehicles, build dioramas and displays. I actually started model building with tanks in 1/72 scale and still build one once in a while. I just love 1/72 scale tanks, helicopters and fighter jets and build dioramas for these, too.
I use washes from Citadel for weathering and also paint mostly with Citadel and Revell paints. Vallejo and Model Master have a great selection, too! Not to forget humbrol. I would really like to try enamel paints from Tamiya some day.
@@legion078 yeah! I make a lot of different things like 1 72 armour, planes and dioramas , i also make 1 35 figures and armour from tamiya!
I use mostly humbrol, revell and vallejo!
Sir, I'm so glad I ran across your video because I was getting ready to go buy a bunch of stuff I don't need. I'm a 66 year old guy getting back into scale modeling after years away. Use to buy AMT cars for 2 dollars and a tube of testors glue for.15 cents and go at it. 😂 How times have changed. Looking at some Tamiya Armor now. Looking forward to the journey. And I subscribed to your channel. Let's see if a old dog can still learn some tricks. 👍😊
I think the main problem is that some modelers (used to) have enough money to buy all those convenience products. If everybody had to model on a small budget nobody would ever use them. The biggest disadvantage seems to be that beginners never learn how to use the "old" techniques and advanced modelers forget about them. People are often tempted to go the "lazy" way. Maybe the inflation will make your tips more appreciated than ever.
I watched quite a lot of your vids recently and I found your weathering tips very well explained and helpful. And I like your "old-fashioned" approach very much, especially since I don't think much of the Spanish way of painting and weathering. To me it looks cartoonish and not realistic at all.
I agree about the "Spanish School"...! ;)
Great points Evan, thanks for making this video. I find that a lot of technique books try to promote products and therefore try to cram numerous types of products in when illustrating the different stages of the weathering process, rather than just stating the most cost effective option (ie oils). Your video cuts through the marketing. Thanks for making this.
I have started using Windsor & Newton oil paints for weathering, good call. My wife helps me also as she is an artist, it just seems to work well. 👍
+John Mason awesome! I'm glad you've given them a go and are enjoying it :)
I just purchased my W&N oil paints and I'm waiting for them to come in. My wife also is an artist only she uses water colors. I'm glad to see so many folks backing up this amazing video.
I’m not surprised a few people have thumbs down, but what you say is true. I’ve tried various acrylic products and the worry is that your can’t reactivate once they are dry and are it able to blend or tweak (in my opinion). Very sensible advice Evan. Good video mate
Great explanation! I was curious why you used oils, and now it is completely clear. You saved me ruining my first model... at least with acrylic weathering! :-)
Hi Mr. Stug ... many thanks for the nice and detailed expenation about the pros & cons of oil and acryl paints. And many thanks for sharing your experience ... watching your tutorials is helping me a lot to improve my modeling skills ... thanks for sharing :-) ... cheers Make*
IMHO this is good advice for newcomers who are starting to do weathering.
I have always preferred to use oil or enamels for washes and dot filters. I tried the acrylic sludge wash and I did not like the results. I will try it again sometime since I like to have other options and effects. Acrylics can be used for certain weather effects but I would not recommend them to a complete newcomer unless they practice with it first. I do like acrylics to simulate dust for example ( airbrush ), since pastels can fade over time or disappear altogether when you spray an overcoat. I know there are ways to get the pastels to stay but I find the acrylic dusting technique a lot easier. Acrylic behavior varies from brand to brand and the technique that works on one will work on another. Vallejo is probably the easiest to work with if you want to try your hand at acrylic weathering. Tamiya is solvent based and will dry very quickly. If you make a mistake with oils or enamels it is very forgiving compared to acrylics which could require another coat of paint or even a complete stripping.
Read the comments and there are some good acrylic weathering ideas I want to try out.
thank you very much, very informative. I'm a new modeler and this gives me a great "base"..llol
These days, come to me, two products I never use: Streacking grime from Vallejo (Acrylic) and the same for MIG (Enamel). The acrylic product dry in one second and stand in the tank until today....No water, no Isopropyl alcohol, no odorless thinner, nothing moving from the surface (I still not use benzin, acetone or lighter fluid). The enamel one, moves easily with the odorless thinner.
Excellent explanation, I totally agree. I have all those fancy enamel washes, filters etc too and they work fine. However, I often find myself adding thinner to these products anyway because it doesn't have the right 'consistency'. I do like the colours though and mixing paints to get the colour I need is not really my thing. I bought a lot of the Abteilung oil-paints for that exact reason. I'm weathering model trains by the way, but I did buy a Pz. Kpfw. III today (Dragon). I guess watching all these videos about weathering tanks ultimately makes you buy those kits :-)
Good advice. Yes oils or enamels are definitely the way to go. I’ve been using them since the late 70’s. I’m going to be working on our collab this week.
+Small Soldier I'll message you this evening. I have time to work on my project too this week :)
Im new to modeling. And you just saved my Shimakaze from weathering with acrylic lol.
Buying oil paints now. thank you much!
Great stuff Ev. It was good to listen and learn again . Hope you are well and your family and the uni is going ok ? Stay safe matey
Another fantastic video to add to your collection! You explained it very well. Fantastic.
Thanks for the info, did wonder why my first tank looked odd.
Thanks, my biggest frustration has been learning the interactions between different paints and thinners.
Longer dry & cure times will help as can lighter coats. If you can smell the paint you can wait. It can take days or even weeks and months depending on whats happening. Some lights or a drying aparatus such as a hearing aid dryer can help speed things up but can have ill effects as well, slowing the drying or curing.
Thank you for the information, first time I've heard that method explained
You rock man
'Newbie alert'...... I'd be grateful if you or someone could inform me of what thinner you are using with the oils. My wife has loads of oils so I don't need to buy any, but 'thinners'...., rather know what you use. I Haven't built a model since childhood & I'm just turned sixty two & 'revisiting' this hobby with a more patient outlook. Any help I would be grateful for. Best wishes & great video. By the way, I'm going to build & hopefully, paint a P51d mustang in the colour scheme of the 'Tuskegee' airmen.
+Garry Hill I'm not sure if I mentioned this in the video, but I use Wilder enamel thinner and sometimes AK Interactive White Spirits. Another option which should honestly work just as well is using lighter fluid...seriously. Zippo lighter fluid is very similar to the Wilder thinner and plenty of modelers just use that instead - Hamilkar Barkas does for example.
Just don't make the same mistake as so many others and use acrylic thinner for the oils. That won't thin them down and will instead damage the previous paint since those paints are likely acrylics and the thinner is meant to thin those down.
Evan thank You for the great explanation on the different products
nice and learn full mate.
im using Abteilung 502 oils for that job i relay recommend them to all
keep on the good work
Thank you!
A famous Germany general Von Bismarck said. " A fool leans by his own mistakes, I learn by the mistakes of others!" So as your Mom used to say to you. "If Billy puts his hand in the fire do you have to? No! Then as the man says, advice is advice take it or leave it, but you'd be stupid to ignore it! So how stupid are you?
Thanks Panzermeister, good lesson, offered generously and received respectfully!
Thanks so much...I've learnt so much from your videos and everything is explained so clearly and simply
+D K thank you! I'm glad you're enjoying my videos :)
I'm a new subscriber, it's my first visit to your channel today. Your videos will help me so much, thanks again :)
Thanks for the info.
I do find acrylics good for base weathering and brush spotting lose tank tracks before final weathering with oils after fitting 👍
Ive tried weathering sand and dust with acrylic Tamiya paints and water. It is actually possible, but like you say, it dries super fast almost instantly and is difficult to manipulate or remove afterwards.
A good tip is to have an old or broken vehicle/model you dont care about and keep that one to test different techniques out on. That was how i discovered acrylic paints were basically useless for weathering effects. Thanks for your videos. Ive learned some cool stuff from you. Your work looks really professional. What kind of top coat would you use to seal weathering powders?
Thank you. I would finish off with a matte lacquer like Testors Dullcote.
@@Panzermeister36
Thank-you for the help and for the brilliant video. Much appreciated :)
Excellent video. Yes acrylic based products and enamel/oil based products are what is called "non-miscible". Meaning they do not form a solution. Which is an excellent property for modelling because they can come into contact with other without reacting. I wish I had seen this video when I first started modelling, because I certainly did some pretty weird things in the name of weathering.
OMG!!! I'm the rude person you mentioned. After several months and a few ruined models I apologise for my previous comment accusing you of being pretentious for using oils. I dodn't know what I was talking about. At least it spurred you to create another great and informative video - silver lining and all that. ;)
I agree wholeheartedly with you about oils being best. Sorry for being an arse in my old comment. Thanks for your great videos. :)
Vallejo has a nice video and some books on acrylic weathering. The results are very nice.
+Spugnoid yes, but this video is aimed at beginners, and I used the word "shouldn't" not "can't". You can use acrylics, but you can usually achieve the same effects with much greater control and much less effort using oils or enamels instead.
Thanks for taking the time.
Panzer , there's still time !
Canada like everywhere else needs good teachers !
Love your work !
Looking forward to your next build .
What about putting the wheels on 6252 Tiger 1🤔
Timony47.
I agree with the durability argument....a Perkasa radio control patrol boat I painted in 1977 with enamels is a salient point BUT the fast drying acrylic argument doesn't hold water..excuse the pun. I decided to go down the acrylic route for two reasons and those alone.....ease of use and above all safety. Yes, the Vallejo paints I use aren't cheap, but what price your health? Moreover, I don't see any spray booth on the bench and he's breathing in those fumes? He seems a keen modeler, so will be breathing those volatile products for longer. I have an off-the-shelf bottle for cleaning through my spray guns with water or Vallejo thinners....safety and ease of use and when you see the number of modelers online who use acrylics for weathering, this argument simply doesn't stand up to scrutiny, nuff said :)
(I appreciate this is an old video!) I think a lot of reliance on acrylic paint comes from the gaming hobby, where they are effectively 'the' paint. This means anyone that has been interested in GW, Privateer Press etc. comes to different projects having only really been shown acrylics (I used to paint for 'eavy metal, so I feel like I can talk about the subject with some knowledge). If you look at the weathering effects that even the best gaming painters use, they tend to be pretty cartoony (dark spot, low light, highlight etc.). I know this, because I'm currently going through the process. I've painted gaming miniatures for over 20 years and whilst I might have some 'off meta' products like W&N inks, I honestly didn't know anything about oils and enamels. We don't discuss them in painting forums, we don't get exposed to them in the hobby. I wanted to take on some 'realistic' miniatures as a project so started watching Night Shift and you to gain some insight into how the more realistic 'scale model' painters were applying techniques. Honestly, it's felt as much science lesson as art lesson and I'm currently having a lot of fun combining all of these things. Maybe I'm just a boomer that doesn't watch enough UA-cam, but as you have done GW yourself in the past, maybe a 'crossover' video that talks about the differences between traditional 'gaming' painting and 'scale model' painting might be useful? Keep up the awesome work.
Thank you! I will be doing that 40K Space Marines predator I showed recently in a video. I am not sure which "way" I will paint it. i.e. wargaming style or a more realistic style. I think first I will ask my viewers what they would prefer to see...
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you for the reply, it's been a genuine pleasure watching both yourself and Martin (your videos, let's not get creepy!!). Personally, I'd be tempted to paint it in your normal style and then drop finished pictures of it into a few of the better known online miniature forums (dakka, coolminiornot etc.) I think a 'realistic' GW tank would be well received and it might bring gaming painters eager to learn across to the channel.
Good video. So many products these days- a trap for the unwary!
I use to mix Tamiya acrylics with water years ago for washes (10% paint 90% water) and it was ok,but not as good as oil paints.This was mid 80's before the commercial washes of today.
Yep. I'm 50, and started doing the same in the mid-80's as a teenager using the old Polly S water-based weathering colors over the then-new Tamiya alcohol-based acrylics. It never worked well at all even though I heavily thinned the weathering colors with a 90-10 thinner-to-paint ratio mixture of denatured alcohol, distilled water and Lemon Joy dish detergent, (to break up the Surface Tension). The thinned Polly S would always look great when first applied, but would dry quickly and unevenly, and for myself at least, appear quite blotchy and unrealistic. It only took having to strip and repaint a couple of large-sized 1/35 Armor Builds before I went back to weathering with artist's oils for good!
So if I use a spray enamel, testors brand. Can I then use a enamel wash to weather my model ?
Great tips, thanks from a beginner!
Thanks for helping. 😃
as always, just great👍✌
I download your begginer weathering serries .. i just want to let you know so you know you are very good at it, and thanks for sharing usefull skills for us and me personally.. thank you.. i hope you dont mind i download it so i can easyly play and replay if i need too..
Great video. Yup... Don't want to use Tamiya acrylics to weather over a Tamiya acrylic base coat. Gotta remember tho that Tamiya "acrylics" are not like most acrylic paints. Their pigment is suspended in alcohol, while most acrylics suspend their pigments in water. I haven't tried it, but you could, in theory, apply weathering over a Tamiya base coat with a regular acrylic like Vallejo.
I've tried that. In a word, dont!!
You can still weather with acrylics, but it's harder, because you clean it up by covering it up with the base color, rather than trying to remove it with thinner. Mostly used by mini painters, where the amount of cleanup is a lot less than scale models which are much larger.
Yes, you are correct! I just would not recommend it, especially for people who are starting out. It's a lot more work and requires more skill. That's why I said "shouldn't" not "can't" :)
I used a pen washed that uses acrylic ink pigment base,acrylic matte medium and a flow agent, but I also use oils and terpentine
If im using a flat brush to apply my thinned base coats to the model would you say enamel paints are best or acrylic? I've only used acrylics and just wondered if enamels are better if youre brush painting your base coats. And can i ask, do the oil paints youre using dry with a matte finish or glossy look to them?
I would continue base coating with acrylics. And the oils dry matte.
@@Panzermeister36
Thanks very much, Panzermeister. Really appreciate your help. I'll continue with the acrylics. And today im going to buy a set of oils. Hopefully I find a good set for a nice price. Thanks again for all the help :)
I watch moust of your videos and i like it :) I got one guestion - usually i paint with ammo paints but now i try with tamiya XF - i cant achiewed this fine scratch efect -hair lacuer ,tamiya pealed off to much and on ammo fluids - its hard to remove. Can you help me ?
It actually depends on what paint you used to paint the vehicle, it's no use trying to weather with Enamels if you painted the vehicle with an enamel paint if you are not experienced and don't really know what you're doing, same goes for Oils. I know a few people who paint their tank with oil and or Enamel paint and use Acrylics for weathering. You really just have to use an opposite paint to that you painted the vehicle in.
My henglong tank I just bought is shiny plastic, no acrylic base coat. would the acrylic still cause mishap beyond compare? I just bought a bunch of the Tamya acrylics from Hobby King following your advice on colors, and now it sounds like I just wasted my money... oh, also i'm only going to be doing this on one model, and didn't really want to stock up on stuff that lasts forever.
Acrylic washes are fine for mud and sand if you don't want to clean it up and just want it messy, but if you want to finely detail and shape it, use oil or enamel.
Hi. Great follow-up video. Regarding using oil paints for weathering because they stay wet and thus can be used/worked with for a longer period of time, how do you eventually "set" it or "fix" it so that it dries? I was looking at a Windsor and Newton matte fixative and it says to wait until the paint is dry which can be 6-9 months. What have you used? Where in your process do you use the oils so that they don't become an issue for you as you continue to work?
Oil paints may take months to dry when they're used the way a painter would....applied thicky on canvas. It is recommended that modelers let the small blobs of oil paint sit out on a piece of cardboard for 5+ hours to soak out a lot of the linseed oil; this will make them dry faster. We also apply them in much thinner coats of course.
Here is an older video of mine which may help you: ua-cam.com/video/uV26I1WQ01U/v-deo.html
They're usually dry within 24 hours in my experience, and I just seal the model with matte varnish in the end.
@@Panzermeister36 great!! Thank you so much!!
Thank you very much for that. Very informative. When doing an oil wash (pin, dot, wash...whatever) do you varnish (gloss? satin? matt?) your models previously right? I do varnish them with gloss but I have seen people not doing it. What is your view? thanks a lot
So I use enamel base colors and then use acrylic wash to weather or bring out the panel lines and it is impossible to damage the enamel base. Enamel is not water soluble while acrylic is.
i like to use acrylic paints, i find that for base colours and dry brushing they are great. i won't use enamels because they messed up my brushes, haven't used them since.
You ever try Varsol as a thinner for your oils? I used to dabble in oil painting (canvas painting) so for my models I tried Varsol as a thinner for washes and such.
I have not tried it personally nope. But I might give it a shot some day. Thanks for the idea!
Hi, can I just say I think your work is superb.
I have a question. If I want to use enamel filters over an acrylic paint, what Varnish should I use to protect the acrylic paint ?
Thanks in advance.
excellent vid
Another Great Upload👍🏻
Great video!
Good evening in your
opinion which name brand oils would recommend for ease of use I have not used any oils question wounldnt the lighter fluid attack the plastic of the model ? hope you feel better soon being sick sucks try some honey flavored tea stay the course Bruce
Great video!!
As a beginner who has only completed 2 models, I just work with all acrylic, its do able, just harder.
Thanks for posting, very good. As a beginner, can I please just clarify one point? I assume this applies when the model has been painted with acrylic? So if it had been finished in enamels I could weather with acrylic? Thank you.
Yes I would weather with acrylics if I painted with enamel :)
Nice 👍
Well, Im painting my models with brush using Humbrol (before they were covering model very good, now I have to apply 2 layers) or Revell applying 1 to 2 layers, depends. The thing is I cant use oil or enamel wash because it will melt my paint, right? Also I cant protect them with varnish because there will be already too thick coat so I just bought acrylic wash. I will check how it works.
Is Mr Hobby’s Mr Weathering safe to use over Tamiya Acrylics? It’s all Japanese writing so I can’t tell much about it. First I’ve heard of Filler colors. I was thinking of thinning down my Mr Weathering to make it a less intense black.
Also do you need to put a gloss coat over Tamiya Acrylics before using Mr Weathering? And if so can it be Tamiya’s clear coats? Or no good?
But oil paints/thinner eat through topcoat and mess up my enamel details...so I started using acrylics for all my weathering and it works great
What kind of varnish are you using? Maybe AMMO or Vallejo? If it's getting eaten by enamel thinner it's a poor quality varnish. Try Tamiya or Mr. Color varnishes.
Hi fellas. I'm very susceptible to the fumes for the oil and enamel thinners. Is there something I can use that is less harmful? You mentioned lighter fluid. Is that as fumy?
My other option is water based but don't know how.
There are some water-based oil paints. I have never tried them but they might be a good option for you! I believe they are Winsor & Newton "Artisan" brand.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks. I've been looking at videos where they just use Vallejo acrylics but I hadn't thought of water based oils. Great idea, I'll give it a try.
@panzermeister36 sooo this is a shot in the dark, i got some acrylic wated based paint for my airbrush, i want to use this as my main paint for the body, can i still apply weathering effects with a oilpaint on the top? or will i end up removing the acrylic paint if i messedup some place with the oilpaint and want to fix it?
If you are using water-based acrylics, then you should apply a protective semi-gloss varnish before working with the oils. Otherwise the oil paint thinner may attack the water-based acrylics.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you for such a fast answer mate! I'll make sure to use my varnish first then!
I wish i’d watched this yesterday 😕, whats the best way to strip back the paint on a model?
I have asthma and plus, I have two budgies. Chemical fumes are an absolute no-go for me. Is there an odorless thinner for oils?
Yes, many companies produce "odorless thinner" for thinning enamel and oil paints. AK Interactive and AMMO by Mig are the brands that come to mind.
@@Panzermeister36 Thankyou so much. I'm nearing 60 and am trying to get back into the hobby. I scratchbuild buildings for 10mm (N scale railroad) wargaming, so I know a bit about acrylics. Thats all I use. But weathering with them is as you say, a problem. I haven't built a plastic model since my teens. Looking forward to it and more of your videos!
I Weather Model Railroad Equipment which uses all the same techniques as Weathering military equipment. Acrylics seem almost useless to me and just make models look like crap. Ive tried using an acrylic wash with a store bought flow agent and can seem to get good results. The liquid just flows to a place where it can rest and all the acrylic dries up there. Keep in mind this is while giving the model my full attention. Dusting with grinded pastels and laying oil on top for the heavy rust and pitting and streaking seems to give the best results. The only other improvement would be to get an airbrush which I've never tried. Anyone have any tips for how a moderate wash should be? Also I thought you need to use oil to think oil paints.
Actually you can weather with Acryics Mabe not a dot filter or a pin wash but you can do it. Mig done a dvd on this subject. Rob AKA Scratchmod does some amazing weathering with only Acrylics as does josé brito
Starting out No do not do it
Yes, as I explained it can be done and there are also special products with which to do it. But saying it can be done doesn't help the people who are struggling with it because they're trying to do common effects that are supposed to be done with oils or enamels.
Just spitballing here but has anyone tried using latex extender with acrylics as a thinner and extender and then use a matte medium to blend the paint as you would use the white spirit on an oil paint? Perhaps moving slower, doing only a few small areas before blending?
So..for oil paint, what thinner should I use? Enamel, Spirits or Turpentine? Help me..
+Pangeran Husaini lighter fluid or white spirits :)
OK so.. What I get is this.. Enamel base colors.. Lacquer top coat, gloss??? Oil weathering, with turpentine thinner??? and what type of protective top coat over everything???
+Alan Burquist acrylic base colours. Oil weathering with lighter fluid as a thinner. Lacquer top coat. No need for a protective varnish before oils as they won't affect the acrylics.
@@Panzermeister36 I'm set up for enamels, not acrylic. All my exp is with enamel, at 60+ I'm too old to change now.. I like your oils system, how can I adapt it to enamels???
What are the oil paints called? And where did you get them so cheaply?
Chris Mrosko would most likely say otherwise, he has shown that acrylics alongside oils and be very effective in weathering your models.
How so?
@@Panzermeister36 I'm not sure if Chris developed or refined the technique of painting on your base layer of weathered color and thinning it down on the model into a wash. it's important to not here that he did or does not use stock thinners, he uses isopropyl alcohol or Windex as his thinning solutions. he then applies a varnish and proceeds to use oils as pin wash or streaks.
Hi forgot to ask you which make of oil paint was the Vienna yellow you use.
Usually I use Naples Yellow from the Winsor & Newton "Winton" line.
I have a question, you need to clear cote or apply any kind of varnish to the model before use the oils or you can apply it without any protection to the paimt work?
I have never use oils and i want o start using it, any tips will help a lot:3
If my base is enamel thinned with lacquer thinner or spray from a rattle can, what thinner can I use for the oils?
+Havanadog 7 you would probably want to apply a lacquer clear varnish beforehand to protect your underlying paints. The rattle can stuff is probably lacquer so that should be okay without the varnish, but I can't say for certain. Then you can use any thinner for the oils. Otherwise, pretty much any oil thinner will attack your enamel paint.
Panzermeister36 if I have enamel thinned with lacquer thinner won’t it be attacked if I also use it for the oils?
+Havanadog 7 I'm not sure about that as I have never thinned enamels with lacquer thinner.
Panzermeister36 ok thanks for the tip man! I think I’ll use the lighter fluid instead of lacquer thinner for the oils.
Any comments on Abteilung 502 paints?
Can't get Wilder paints, would you go Abteilung 502 or Winton?
Great video, thanks. I have a problem though; I apply my acrylic base coat then acrylic gloss varnish. But when I try and clean my oil wash the enamel thinner I use starts removing the acrylic base coat? Even though it’s been varnished. Any idea what I’m doing wrong. Thanks
+McNab I would guess that the enamel thinner you are using is too strong, or perhaps you are using very poor varnishes by Vallejo or Mig AMMO. Those are very weak and won't do a good job of protecting your model.
Panzermeister36 thanks. What varnish and thinner would you recommend?