Thanks for another great video. I've not built a tank for some years, but I still find your techniques and hits helpful for both wargame, plane and train models. So don't put yourself down - you are helping modellers even if they don't paint tanks. See you next week Tony
Oh yeah, That fake light and shadow effects method is great martinology. This I shall try, thank you. And to everyone in the upcoming holidays may you all be blessed and safe.
In Soviet Russia we take oil paints by "Nevskaya Palitra" ($2 for 46ml tube) and thinned it by technical white spirit ($1,5 for 1000ml in glass boutle). It may stink the entire floor of an apartment building, but we are get used to. P.S. This is joke, ofcourse. Tikkurila 1050 makes great for this case. But oil pains like "Ladoga" and "Master-Class" is very good for people who can't buy even Wilder paints. From Russia with love!
Perfect done. German "land" crosses were white in the very early war period, and it was changed due to high visibility of them. All the best for You! ;)
I used oil for washing. Then I started using AK washes. Now I think that oil is still more practical because using the same colors you can make one mixture for the filter, the second mixture for washing and another one for tinting. You just need to correctly select the oil paints according to the size of the piment grind.
I was recommended your videos awhile ago and about a month and a half ago you inspired me to get back into scale modeling and I am so glad I found your videos. Thank you Martin for helping me re find an old hobby
This video got the point. I build both tracked and winged vehicles and what I can say is that oil is way finest, so I use it for panel lines and as filters diluted with turpentine and I also use it with no dilution to enhance tones on certain areas. I use enamel for sure but to ad something not belonging to the structure of the vehicle such as grease, oil, kerosen, dirt. I think the most important here is to make the difference between filters and washes.
Per Hillary Doyle, the red crosses are authentic for late war German tanks. There is even a Stug at the American Cavalry museum that is still in its original paint and it has a red cross on it. Not very well known, but the red crosses were a thing for a short time at the very end of the war.
Haven’t even watched the video yet lol. I just know... It’s gonna be GOOOOOOD I’m gonna be getting a 1/76 scale jagdtiger and I’m gonna use your videos to build it!
This is fantastic! As an oil painter on canvas for 30 years all I can say is I cannot wait for you to try the following challenge (maybe on a little 1 7/2 scale slap together model): Prime as usual then camo using brush and oils! Pin wash after the camo. Weather etc... ALL in OIL.
Martin, first I have to say your videos are fantastic. Entertaining, informative, funny, and your end results are amazing. I'm getting back into modeling after many decades spent on other hobbies and was wondering if you'd mind sharing what products you like for both the satin clear coat you mentioned in this video and your end result matt coat. Thanks again and keep up the great content my friend!
Working on weatherin with oils is my favourite part of painting. Your attitude is simply brilliant. But with a wife and kids, there is less spare time :)
Another benefit to your dots after washes approach [at least to my lazy wargamer brain] is the filter adds subtle highlights to the washed areas, This is most noticeable on your tool clamp welds as you blend the sides, it transfers like a drybrush highlight.
Friday is the best day of the week. Im very happy you are making this jagdtiger because previous to you I worked on a tiger 2, just with darker green and brown so now I am evaluating what did I do right and what to improve :)
looking awesome so far. I've always found difficult to make affects on that kind of camouflages patterns so I tend to avoid them but now I see that is actually not that hard. Thanks for this vid !!!
That is going to be one very nice Jagdtiger. One thing I have found in my own use of oils, is; to get the best paint you can afford. The cheaper brands do not have a high pigment density. The upper ended ones do. Very nice job. See you guys next week.
I've been subscribed and notified for close to a year I think. I remember that when I first started watching you, you sounded kind of nervous but you got it good now. Keep up the good work, and I don't do armor, always been an airplane nut.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Thanks a lot mate! That really helped :D I really enjoy the vids and love your style of making models and dioramas... Keep it up! Tanks a lot (pun intended... very bad pun was intended)
Hi, I’ve only had one attempt at a Tank, it was the Dragon King Tiger, ‘Battle if they Bulge’ and only got it due to the box art. I didn’t m as make a good job, and stuck with aircraft. But having only recently discovered your channel, and love it, especially how you explain everything. I’m tempted to have another go at armour 👍🏻 Jason 🇬🇧
Lol 😂 I have also developed a certain addiction to this specific wash for some time now. I use it practically everywhere, from tanks to aircrafts, ships and dioramas.... up to a wooden trestle bridge for an 1/160 railroad diorama, it's just the right color for everything! 😁
I streak aircraft in direction of flight, because firstly the straight lines are more noticeable than mottled from when on the ground, and while in flight their is more grime produced. For very slow aircraft eg WW1 or pathetic ww2, I'd just mottle, but I think overall your eyes notice the streaking more. And the general weathering give the slight mottled part anyway. And if doing an airplane that has been in a sandstorm or alike then the streaking will be very pronounced. But great video as always.
Have you ever tried Gamblin galkyd or Windsor and Newtons' Liquin fast-drying oil mediums? Can make the colour yellow a bit but with a wash, I don't think that's a problem.
Great video, Oils are so great for blending, starting using them on figures, cheaper aswell. Some of the Japanese scale modellers I follow only seem to use oils to weather.
Love it! Need to get a few, having a soft spot for '13', as in 305013, 113, 313 and Otto Carius' own 213! I've also bought a Trumpeter 1/35 KV-122, to do a '46 What If....should be fun, looking for some WWII Soviet slogans to put on it.... Keep those excellent videos coming my friend! 🤜🏻🤛🏻🍻
I liked this video. I don't use oils that much, but it's always so easy. Also, the lighting wasn't noticable at all, I wouldn't have known if you didn't mention it.
I don’t believe any type of wash is better than the other. I have used all of them over time (acrylics, enamel, oil) and I came to the conclusion that there is nothing a “type” of wash can do that the others cannot do. - Are they different ? yes - Do you need specific technique/work process ? yes The only important thing is finding what works best for you. Superb work as always
Love you chanal, such a high quality!!! The products you show and what they do. I never did this hobby nice, but you help me with tons of tips and tricks!!!
Howdy again, Martin, for quicker drying time you can add a small drop or two of a product for artists called 'Japan Dryer'. It is a liquid that really speeds up drying time. Note: do not dip a brush with paint into the bottle of Japan Dryer, use a toothpick, or whatever. Even a small amount of oil paint will cause the liquid to harden in the bottle. Cheers
To make your oil wash dry faster and have better pigmentation apply the oil paint to a paper towel and leave it for about 5-10 minutes to absorb the linseed oil from the paint. Makes life so much easier.
Thanks for sharing the excellent model tips. It is very helpful. In video 1:13, the color of [Dark Mud] is exactly almost the same as the MIG oilbrush in the real world? I just need to make sure there is no color deviation between the video and real world. Thanks a lot.
I like the way you planed this video. If I wanted to build a Takom Jagtiger , I could follow your videos to the finish... Now I'm just waiting for a WW2 soviet tank. ( Hint, Hint ) Thanks for sharing. I really like your work and Video style.
Call me crazy but CHALK WASH, cheapest option, subtle, easy to control, dries fast but also can always be changed unless u add a coat, and you can also use the chalk as pigments to make dirt stains or things like exhaust stains etc.
Personally I LIKE the term "STERILE" as that is EXACTLY What it looks like! I have recently purchased some 1/32 German and American Tank Models that are actually more like "TOYS"... but are more for the "Collectors" and have some VERY NICE Details! YES they can be "Improved" upon and that is EXACTLY What I have been doing and with making my own add on detail parts {i.e. Tools, Tow Cables and Hooks, Adding some Resin, Photo-Etched parts and some custom parts I made!} And ALSO of course some Weathering/Aging and detail painting courtesy of "Uncle Night Shift"! LOL :D But BECAUSE of Martin's Vids... the Toys/Models have GREATLY Improved in looks! I've even taken them to some model club meetings and UNTIL i said something to my fellow club members... they didn't even KNOW that these tanks and plans were from the "21st. Century/Ultimate Soldier" or "UNIMAX-Forces of Valor" lines of Collectible Military Toy Models?! And I'm talking some VERY VERY SERIOUS Military Modelers here! So yea... AGAIN a HUGE thanks to Martin for his AWESOME "HOW TO" Vids! :D
It depends . You can get better shading and color with oil .its a little more work experimenting with different colors as opposed to opening a bottle of pre- mixed color .
Germans did, in fact, paint the white portions of the cross red and occasionally other colours. This is covered by Hilary Doyle (a foremost expert on German WW2 AFVs) and can be seen on several untouched German vehicles from the late 44-45 era. I believe there is a recent video of him reviewing an unrestored StuG which still has the red paint on the crosses, etc.
Already one year that I'm a subscriber, and I don't even model tanks! It would be interesting to see how you handle an airplane model (tank killer A-10?). I like oil paints, but always struggled with washes. I just got my first enamel wash bottle today, I would use it as reference.
i just got a Takom Tiger 2 and im gonna try alot of these techniques on that to see how it goes. Im more an aircraft modeler but i wanna get more into armor.
![#184 [戦車 プラモデル] コスパ最強！ 模型製作に必須 各種ヤスリ当て木を一気に試してみました The best value for money sanding board!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVpdSfcFUMg/mqdefault.jpg)
Easily the the best part of Fridays!!!
I like the new intro!
No
The old one is the best
@@GoneFishing-8373 I definetely agree especially the photo flashes
But the new one is not bad either
This vid should be renamed as "Oiling up with your Uncle Nightshift"....erm
bruh
@@poo2137 indeed. bruh
@@NightShiftScaleModels certainly. bruh.
@@radimziegler7079 bruh certainly
@@adamturner4619 bruh indubitably
This is the type of life question which keeps me up at night. Shades vs Enamel washes vs Oilbrushers.
Thanks for another great video.
I've not built a tank for some years, but I still find your techniques and hits helpful for both wargame, plane and train models. So don't put yourself down - you are helping modellers even if they don't paint tanks.
See you next week
Tony
Oh yeah, That fake light and shadow effects method is great martinology. This I shall try, thank you. And to everyone in the upcoming holidays may you all be blessed and safe.
The only good thing on my Fridays is watching a new Night Shift video lol
Best part of Night Shift's videos: hello, my friends
Worst part of Night Shift's videos: that's all for tonight, my friends
The best part is where you actually learn new stuff
I don't know if anyone here watches DezGamez, but the way he speaks is just like Night Shift. :D Amazing video tho, really loved it! :)
In Soviet Russia we take oil paints by "Nevskaya Palitra" ($2 for 46ml tube) and thinned it by technical white spirit ($1,5 for 1000ml in glass boutle). It may stink the entire floor of an apartment building, but we are get used to.
P.S. This is joke, ofcourse. Tikkurila 1050 makes great for this case. But oil pains like "Ladoga" and "Master-Class" is very good for people who can't buy even Wilder paints.
From Russia with love!
I am a simple man: I see that Uncle Night Shift has uploaded another video and I enjoy it on a friday evening :)
Perfect done. German "land" crosses were white in the very early war period, and it was changed due to high visibility of them. All the best for You! ;)
I used oil for washing. Then I started using AK washes. Now I think that oil is still more practical because using the same colors you can make one mixture for the filter, the second mixture for washing and another one for tinting. You just need to correctly select the oil paints according to the size of the piment grind.
I was recommended your videos awhile ago and about a month and a half ago you inspired me to get back into scale modeling and I am so glad I found your videos. Thank you Martin for helping me re find an old hobby
This video got the point. I build both tracked and winged vehicles and what I can say is that oil is way finest, so I use it for panel lines and as filters diluted with turpentine and I also use it with no dilution to enhance tones on certain areas. I use enamel for sure but to ad something not belonging to the structure of the vehicle such as grease, oil, kerosen, dirt.
I think the most important here is to make the difference between filters and washes.
And by the way, Tank a lot! 😉
Thanks for showing how easy and simple this nice camo scheme is to make!
Well, it wasn't THAT easy :D
Per Hillary Doyle, the red crosses are authentic for late war German tanks. There is even a Stug at the American Cavalry museum that is still in its original paint and it has a red cross on it. Not very well known, but the red crosses were a thing for a short time at the very end of the war.
Can't wait for the follow up on chipping and rust tones, just picked up the full line of oilbrushers myself! Thanks NightShift
The money would have been far better spend on tubes...
@@krautreport202 I have used Aub. and W&N for years - these dry faster and more matte than either of those, regardless of thinners.
Haven’t even watched the video yet lol. I just know...
It’s gonna be GOOOOOOD
I’m gonna be getting a 1/76 scale jagdtiger and I’m gonna use your videos to build it!
Nice, especially the compact scale. You'll have it done in no time!
Revell one? I am making the 1/72 one!
Fantastic you have given me some great advice as I’m making the Trumpeter 1/72 Jagdtiger at the moment all ready for painting.
This is fantastic! As an oil painter on canvas for 30 years all I can say is I cannot wait for you to try the following challenge (maybe on a little 1 7/2 scale slap together model): Prime as usual then camo using brush and oils! Pin wash after the camo. Weather etc... ALL in OIL.
My country got into quarantine again, but your videos will definitely help to combat boredom
You and panzermeister are my favorite modelers/skills. Your work is flawless!!!
Martin, first I have to say your videos are fantastic. Entertaining, informative, funny, and your end results are amazing.
I'm getting back into modeling after many decades spent on other hobbies and was wondering if you'd mind sharing what products you like for both the satin clear coat you mentioned in this video and your end result matt coat.
Thanks again and keep up the great content my friend!
Like your commentaries very much, Martin! Thank you. And the visual is interesting as well!
Working on weatherin with oils is my favourite part of painting. Your attitude is simply brilliant. But with a wife and kids, there is less spare time :)
Yaaaas! Tbh completely forgot it was Friday until I saw this
That oil wash was pretty sick man! how fast it worked so cool. I only use acryl washes, but after seeing this I would try oil washes.
I used the oil dot method but just with acrylic Vallejo paints on a 1/35 Sherman and it looked better than I thought
Every time I remember its Friday I always think there's a new night shift video. keep up the good work
Another benefit to your dots after washes approach [at least to my lazy wargamer brain] is the filter adds subtle highlights to the washed areas, This is most noticeable on your tool clamp welds as you blend the sides, it transfers like a drybrush highlight.
Friday is the best day of the week.
Im very happy you are making this jagdtiger because previous to you I worked on a tiger 2, just with darker green and brown so now I am evaluating what did I do right and what to improve :)
looking awesome so far. I've always found difficult to make affects on that kind of camouflages patterns so I tend to avoid them but now I see that is actually not that hard. Thanks for this vid !!!
Choosing the right colors is the most important part :)
" black and white photos of JT 331 clearly show the red and white crosses". Magnificent.
Oils are so much more user friendly. I'm very glad you've discovered this.
That is going to be one very nice Jagdtiger. One thing I have found in my own use of oils, is; to get the best paint you can afford. The cheaper brands do not have a high pigment density. The upper ended ones do. Very nice job. See you guys next week.
Oh wow, this is looking real good!!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
happy friday! I used to use oils, went in a different direction, didn't like the results. Now you've renewed my faith in oils! Nice job.
waiting for your videos every week! Thanks!
Hello, very nice build by the way. What Lamp/Light source do you use!? Greetings Ben.
Great video, I always learn something new from your channel and it really ups my building techinques!
I've been subscribed and notified for close to a year I think. I remember that when I first started watching you, you sounded kind of nervous but you got it good now. Keep up the good work, and I don't do armor, always been an airplane nut.
I've been waiting for this to be uploaded for a long time
I always have something to look forward to on Friday
Please, add the figure (resin tank crew) to see how do you build and paint it.
Cheers! 🍺🥴
Of course! I'm keeping him for the very end!
@@NightShiftScaleModels 👏👏👏
Can use your oils for his face🙂
@@ctscalemodellinguk oils are always best for figures with acrylic base.
I'm making Late War Jagdpanther from the Normandy Campain... Any tips for camouflage, or any tricks for weathering??
Just follow this series as the camouflage is pretty much the same except the dots :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels Thanks a lot mate! That really helped :D
I really enjoy the vids and love your style of making models and dioramas... Keep it up!
Tanks a lot (pun intended... very bad pun was intended)
Hi,
I’ve only had one attempt at a Tank, it was the Dragon King Tiger, ‘Battle if they Bulge’ and only got it due to the box art.
I didn’t m as make a good job, and stuck with aircraft. But having only recently discovered your channel, and love it, especially how you explain everything.
I’m tempted to have another go at armour 👍🏻
Jason 🇬🇧
Lol 😂 I have also developed a certain addiction to this specific wash for some time now. I use it practically everywhere, from tanks to aircrafts, ships and dioramas.... up to a wooden trestle bridge for an 1/160 railroad diorama, it's just the right color for everything! 😁
"Like an over exposed blender render"
Oh god he's so right
Friday is amazing!
I streak aircraft in direction of flight, because firstly the straight lines are more noticeable than mottled from when on the ground, and while in flight their is more grime produced. For very slow aircraft eg WW1 or pathetic ww2, I'd just mottle, but I think overall your eyes notice the streaking more. And the general weathering give the slight mottled part anyway. And if doing an airplane that has been in a sandstorm or alike then the streaking will be very pronounced. But great video as always.
Have you ever tried Gamblin galkyd or Windsor and Newtons' Liquin fast-drying oil mediums? Can make the colour yellow a bit but with a wash, I don't think that's a problem.
Great video, Oils are so great for blending, starting using them on figures, cheaper aswell. Some of the Japanese scale modellers I follow only seem to use oils to weather.
Great new intro! Awesome weathering! Another interesting and helpful video. 👍
Your model lools nice ! Keep up the good work!
Love it!
Need to get a few, having a soft spot for '13', as in 305013, 113, 313 and Otto Carius' own 213!
I've also bought a Trumpeter 1/35 KV-122, to do a '46 What If....should be fun, looking for some WWII Soviet slogans to put on it....
Keep those excellent videos coming my friend! 🤜🏻🤛🏻🍻
i would love to see you tackle a model that isn't a tank. A plane, or even a scifi model would be amazing to see from you
Great job , oil washes are the best, always learning and changing, and having fun 👍👍👍👍👍
I liked this video. I don't use oils that much, but it's always so easy.
Also, the lighting wasn't noticable at all, I wouldn't have known if you didn't mention it.
Extremely useful as always. I'll definitely be using theses techniques in my kt build. Looking forward to the next vedio.
Masterpiece!👍👍👍
I don’t believe any type of wash is better than the other. I have used all of them over time (acrylics, enamel, oil) and I came to the conclusion that there is nothing a “type” of wash can do that the others cannot do.
- Are they different ? yes
- Do you need specific technique/work process ? yes
The only important thing is finding what works best for you.
Superb work as always
Great video my friend really helpful stay safe 👍👍
Love you chanal, such a high quality!!! The products you show and what they do. I never did this hobby nice, but you help me with tons of tips and tricks!!!
Howdy again, Martin, for quicker drying time you can add a small drop or two of a product for artists called 'Japan Dryer'. It is a liquid that really speeds up drying time. Note: do not dip a brush with paint into the bottle of Japan Dryer, use a toothpick, or whatever. Even a small amount of oil paint will cause the liquid to harden in the bottle. Cheers
To make your oil wash dry faster and have better pigmentation apply the oil paint to a paper towel and leave it for about 5-10 minutes to absorb the linseed oil from the paint. Makes life so much easier.
Yup, although Oilbrushers already dry pretty fast :)
Can only imagine how much not-fun oil paints are on a model, I was using boiled linseed oil on wood and it takes 4 to 5 days to dry!
Dear Martin, Excellent tutorial. Keep well & keep safe. Kind Regards Johnny
What colors would be good for color modulation on red oxide? Orange yellow and white? Maybe some light blue for sunlight?
I've never made the switch to fancy-pants enamels. Now Night Shift has made them obsolete again.
Just today I remembered that it was Friday) I'm anticipating a great time :3
Thank you , Uncle Martin .
I always have pizza on a friday and I watch you’re videos while eating it it’s like a little tradition:D
I'm building the Porsche version of this model now. I am going to use all of these techniques!
Thanks for sharing the excellent model tips. It is very helpful.
In video 1:13, the color of [Dark Mud] is exactly almost the same as the MIG oilbrush in the real world?
I just need to make sure there is no color deviation between the video and real world.
Thanks a lot.
I like the way you planed this video. If I wanted to build a Takom Jagtiger , I could follow your videos to the finish... Now I'm just waiting for a WW2 soviet tank. ( Hint, Hint ) Thanks for sharing. I really like your work and Video style.
Thanks for the concise oil wash recommendation.
Call me crazy but CHALK WASH, cheapest option, subtle, easy to control, dries fast but also can always be changed unless u add a coat, and you can also use the chalk as pigments to make dirt stains or things like exhaust stains etc.
Excellent, thank you Martin. As inspiring as always.
That's a chunky Jagdtiger. Ahhh another night shift to complete the week.
Alright, now lets see you build and paint the Landkreuzer P. 1000 from Modelcollect. The thing is so big, you don't even need to make fake shadows.
100% agree with your opinion... even for planes oil paint is much better and easy to control :)
So true lol. Took me way too long to learn that :D
You do some great modeling. Thanks for the video.
Personally I LIKE the term "STERILE" as that is EXACTLY What it looks like!
I have recently purchased some 1/32 German and American Tank Models that are actually more like "TOYS"... but are more for the "Collectors" and have some VERY NICE Details! YES they can be "Improved" upon and that is EXACTLY What I have been doing and with making my own add on detail parts {i.e. Tools, Tow Cables and Hooks, Adding some Resin, Photo-Etched parts and some custom parts I made!} And ALSO of course some Weathering/Aging and detail painting courtesy of "Uncle Night Shift"! LOL :D
But BECAUSE of Martin's Vids... the Toys/Models have GREATLY Improved in looks! I've even taken them to some model club meetings and UNTIL i said something to my fellow club members... they didn't even KNOW that these tanks and plans were from the "21st. Century/Ultimate Soldier" or "UNIMAX-Forces of Valor" lines of Collectible Military Toy Models?!
And I'm talking some VERY VERY SERIOUS Military Modelers here! So yea... AGAIN a HUGE thanks to Martin for his AWESOME "HOW TO" Vids! :D
Nice. It's finally Friday.
So much better than watching Netflix :)
Amazing job👌
I love your videos and looking forward to seeing more of them.
That oil wash looks amazing!
The power of oils!
@@NightShiftScaleModels sounds like America
Another outstanding video and presentation.
MARTIN!!!! Hella pretty my dude... Also, I have the title of world's slowest builder, thank you very much. lol
It depends . You can get better shading and color with oil .its a little more work experimenting with different colors as opposed to opening a bottle of pre- mixed color .
looks amazing so far
Germans did, in fact, paint the white portions of the cross red and occasionally other colours. This is covered by Hilary Doyle (a foremost expert on German WW2 AFVs) and can be seen on several untouched German vehicles from the late 44-45 era. I believe there is a recent video of him reviewing an unrestored StuG which still has the red paint on the crosses, etc.
Quick question, how do you prefer to clean enamels and oils off of your brushes when your done painting? How about cleaning Tamiya putty off brushes?
Spectacular, meticulous, perfect...😍😍😍...Once again!
Yes, its very very good, you are the man.
Great video again, Uncle! :-)
Already one year that I'm a subscriber, and I don't even model tanks! It would be interesting to see how you handle an airplane model (tank killer A-10?).
I like oil paints, but always struggled with washes. I just got my first enamel wash bottle today, I would use it as reference.
14:30 a lightbulb the same size and shape as a water bottle.
i just got a Takom Tiger 2 and im gonna try alot of these techniques on that to see how it goes. Im more an aircraft modeler but i wanna get more into armor.