I would like to give a massive thank you for doing this video, I now know exactly what I was doing wrong, pretty much everything. I had the wash too thick, brush too big, didn't let it dry long enough, used too much thinner to clean up This has now set me right to try again today, fingers crossed it'll turn out better than yesterday. Thank you 👍
@@philiph.2128 yes thank you, not as good as I would have liked but a vast improvement on what I did before, I need a lot more practice to get it as good as in the video.
All the comments I've read say pretty much what I wanted to say, so it seems you've covered most everything that needed to be said. Thanks and I look forward to your next video.
So much good information and great camera work too - a very professional and useful video. There’s no waffle or wastage here, just a well put together vlog. I can’t think of one thing that could make it any better. Well Done 10/10. A Masterclass.
Your videos are extremely well done. Not only do you create excellent models, which it is clear you are passionate about, you take the time to document your work. As a former Art teacher I would have loved to have you as a student! Keep up the excellent work, on the bench AND online.
excellent video and makes weathering easy. always found weathering on alot of videos quite hard and fustrating especially knowing what equipment to have for the intended effect. always good to see friendly, down to earth videos to get more people into the RC hobby
Simple technic for great effect. Thanks for your very clear and concise tutorial. I'm building models for years, but it's very interesting technics you're using with impresive results.
Very nice vid. I'm coming back to modelling after a long period away; it's amazing how much you forget, or how many techiniques need a memory refresh or a brush up. Would like to see a vid on the whitewash too.
I started using streaking effects and filters recently, and they add soooo much for the model. I use pre-made stuff for the most part, and they help immensely.
Great video! Id really like to apply this method to some Bolt Action US tanks. I'm using Vallejo Model paints which have rather chalky matte finish. My question is are you using [or would you] use a varnish before the pin wash or apply the wash directly over the paints? Thank you for your time and videos!
For acrylic paint: use a pin or two of dish soap, equal parts water, and then add the color of your choice. Use a detail brush to catch the blobs… let dry, wipe off and do highlights, and clear coat.
Great tutorial Evan, ohh the backhand on the acrylics..that was good because it did drive the point home. 🤣 I'm going to try this on my next tank build.
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing i really love this technique it's absolutely perfect for model railroad equipment looking forward to more tutorials from you on this tank build I hope you touch upon dust effects on this green tank I need a tuneup thanks again
Have you tried the OPR technique where instead of layering multiple filters and washes you just do everything at once? Using the oil paint to color modulate, filter, wash, and highlight all in one step as you work in small sections and move around the vehicle? I'm more of a traditionalist where one layers multiple effects one step at a time while working on the whole vehicle all at once. But have been checking out a lot of Rinaldi's stuff after hearing you mention him a few times with regard to hairspray chipping
I have a question for you, Panzermeister36 (or for anyone else who reads this). I am almost finished building a Renault FT from WW1 (Takom, 1/16 scale), but as used by the Spanish Army in northern Morocco in the 1920s. I implemented a pinwash on the main body of the tank and the turret following your advice from the present video. This was the first pinwash (or in fact, the first weathering of any kind) that I have ever done on a model kit, and I think it has greatly improved the look of the model. Thanks a lot for all your advice! The problem I have now is that, before making the pinwash, I had first airbrushed the treads with Vallejo Gunmetal Grey (77.720). I have seen several photos of Renault FTs in museums with exactly this color for their treads. But now the tread looks out of place because it is so pristine. It's like someone wearing brand new Armani pants with a torn shirt made out of rags. :-P So I would like to weather the tread. I have been reading a lot about tread weathering in internet. Most of what I have seen deals with mud and rust effects, but I don't want to use mud effects nor rust. I just want a track that has had (modest) wear and tear from scraping against rocks, etc. How would you recommend that I do this? Is this simply a case of chipping? If so, what two colors would you recommend for the shallow chips and for the deeper chips? Or should I do some other kind of weathering altogether? (Ah, and the treads are already permanently glued to the tank, so I would not be able to take them apart to paint separately. Of course, I can do some masking, with care not to mess up the main body.)
I think it would be best to repaint the tracks using a paintbrush with a darker brown-grey colour. Then "drybrush" the raised details and edges of the tracks with the gunmetal colour from earlier. This will give them a worn look.
Excellent Evan! Cute little tank?... not so much to the poor crews that had to fight in that sucker. LOL. I'd like to see your whitewash techniques, bring_ it_ on!
I'd like to see the whitewash video .. been trying and failing to do winter camo for quite some time. and the vallejo chipping medium doesnt seem to work right for me either - So another way would be great :D
A filter is a thin tint of heavily thinned enamel or oil paints used to blend camouflage colours or to slightly correct the hue of the base colour of your tank.
It is a good idea to apply a gloss or semi-gloss varnish before the wash. However it is not always required. Basically the varnish is to do two things: 1.- protect the base acrylic paints against the thinners in the wash. This is relevant to water-based acrylics like Vallejo or Mig. This is not relevant to alcohol-based or lacquer paints like Tamiya, Gunze, AK Real Color. 2.- provide a smooth surface so that the wash flows into all the details nicely. You require the varnish if your base paint is susceptible to the thinners in the wash, or if the surface is matte and the wash is not going to flow nicely. Personally I can achieve a very smooth application of Tamiya acrylics so sometimes I don't even need the varnish, since Tamiya is durable. But, really no harm can come from applying the varnish anyways, so you can always apply the varnish to feel confident. Hopefully that is clear. Please ask if you have further questions.
Thank you! It’s a nice video. I did a pin wash over a satin varnish to my Tiger I. However, the varnish seems to peel and flake off when I’m removing the excess of the wash. I’ve already tried to be gentle to avoid accidentally rubbing off the varnish but it still comes off after a few stroke. How could I fix it?
I can imagine two problems that could cause this. I'll need you do answer the two following questions so I can give you the right solution: 1. What varnish did yo use (type, company, what thinner did you use when spraying it, etc.)2. What thinner were you using to clean up the pinwash?
Panzermeister36 1. For the varnish I use Vallejo Satin varnish (the small 17mL but not the polyurethane large bottle one) thinned down with water. Also I don’t have an airbrush so the varnish was brushed on with two layers. I also make sure the layer of varnish has fully cured before applying the next one. 2. I use Daler Rowney low odour thinner
Your pinwash thinner seems like it's not very strong so I doubt it was the issue...In that case, I think it was the varnish. Vallejo paints are quite weak as far as acrylics go. Weak as in not very durable. However, stronger varnishes might be harder to brush paint. I would recommend a lacquer varnish that comes in a spray can, like Tamiya or Testors. Use a gloss spray before the pinwash and oil weathering, and then matte spray afterwards. Just be careful to spray it on in a few thin layers and from at least 18 inches away, since cans don't offer a huge amount of control and spraying too close or too heavy will risk giving the varnish a poor finish. Also, sorry I took a few days to reply. UA-cam marked your reply as spam (no idea why -- it doesn't have links or anything) and hid it away.
Panzermeister36 thank you! I live in HK so Testor isn’t really available for me. I think I’ll go for Tamiya or Mr Hobby. My Hobby offers Topcoat, which is acrylic-based, and Super Clear, which is lacquer-based. Will lacquer-based be too strong for my Vallejo model colour basecoat and decals and should I go for Topcoat instead? Thanks a lot for your help. I don’t have an airbrush so I brush painted all the paint jobs.
Hi, I’ve been watching your tutorial playlist and learned a lot. But a little confused, because on some you say you don’t gloss or varnish after paint but on this one you do ? Thanks for great videos 👍
@@Panzermeister36 ok thanks mate, just wanted to make sure… also do you lock in after each procedure or at the very last when all finished or not at all.. thanks for your help.
No worries. I do not varnish after each step, usually the oil or enamel will dry pretty well after 24 hours. After I complete all the weathering steps -- wash, dust effects, grime, dot filter, etc. -- then I will apply a final matte varnish to protect it from handling, and also to get rid of any shiny gloss that remains. Real vehicles are pretty matte.
@@Panzermeister36 ahh great, thank you very much for taking the time and getting back to me and making things clearer for me. Loved the dust n dirt tutorial and making it so easy to understand. Thank you buddy 😊
Not bad sir. In games we call this a dirt pass. It's the first thing you do when texturing. Most powerful thing in both types of models. I thought you didn't clear coat.
Hey man, can I ask what compressor and tank you use or what you would recommend? I'm just starting out so don't want to break the bank but want something quality. Thanks, and thanks for all the great videos!
Excellent Tutorial!!, Can layers of paint be added above the effect already made with oil and enamel products previously? a kind of double or triple chipped effect with a final layer of a washable color like a white. (as if a layer of paint on the previous deterioration had been added due to the urgency of the war situation). Greetings from Argentina!!
Yes, that would be no problem at all! Once dry (after 24 hours for these modelling oil paints...maybe a little longer for artist's oils), the oil paints are pretty durable.
Great video evan! I was wondering, can you use artist enamel thinner/artist white spirits in place of say the model brander thinner or zippo fluid? Thanks!
+Michael Piakamlue I'm not exactly sure. I think you should be able to, but I would be worried that some artist-level thinners are too strong and might attack your varnish and damage the model. So best to test it out a little bit first to make sure it will work well.
+Havanadog 7 I would definitely recommend PE for the engine deck vents at least. Aber and others make little sets of that. The full PE sets are a lot of work, and I wouldn't even use all the parts myself...generally some are too small or fiddly and would end up looking worse than plastic detail after I'm done with it! But if you're feeling up to it, then go for it...it will really improve the detail.
Panzermeister36 think I’ll do PE engine grilles and cut fenders out of brass. Thanks for the tip!
4 роки тому
I'm not sure what Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color is made of. Is it an oil, enamel, or acrylic? It says you clean it up with enamel thinner. I imagine you could use this as well for pin washing, your thoughts?
Hey Panzermeister I have a bit of a problem I sprayed my tank model with tamiya TS-80 dull coat and a few days later I tried using enamel thinner to clean the wash I applied But for some reason it turned the the dull coat white What can I do to fix the white areas ?
You could, but you may want to test first. Reason is: some of the enamel products like that designed to simulate grease/grime dry with a glossy finish to make it look wet. That will look odd as a pinwash. So I would test to see if your product there will dry gloss or matte.
Mate Huge thanks from My Channel To Yours had to Sub doing a Build of so to speak with 2 other mates on UA-cam and well I know they have not heard of you, We are doing The Panzer 4 F Afrika Corps, So Thanks for all your brilliant tutorials Cheers Jason, PS This is My First ever tank Build in 48yrs of Modelling
The thinner my dad has says "Recordsol Thinner" is that too strong? Or will it work okay? I hope I'm not bugging you with all my questions. Keep up the good work!
Tamiya Panel Line washes should work well for the wash unthinned. They are enamel washes and come prethinned in the bottle. They should work just fine!
I keep trying this but most of the times when the oil color dries (I usually use black), it becomes grey and most of it is AROUND the panel line, but when I try to remove excess then the wash INSIDE the panel is removed, +when there are really small details it just doesn't wants to go inside the line. I'm pretty cursed whatever I do.
Ok dude that fact that u showed how to make ur own with pant n thinner is SO useful, thank you!
A refreshingly clear, concise, well explained tutorial, with great camera work. Thanks for making it!
I would like to give a massive thank you for doing this video, I now know exactly what I was doing wrong, pretty much everything.
I had the wash too thick, brush too big, didn't let it dry long enough, used too much thinner to clean up
This has now set me right to try again today, fingers crossed it'll turn out better than yesterday.
Thank you 👍
Did it Work?
@@philiph.2128 yes thank you, not as good as I would have liked but a vast improvement on what I did before, I need a lot more practice to get it as good as in the video.
@@allanatwick1606 i will try it out on a Modell in a few Days for the First Time, wish me luck
@@philiph.2128 fingers crossed for you, my brushes were too big so getting appropriate sizes helped lots
@@allanatwick1606 iv'e Got a small brush, so i think that will Not be the problem
All the comments I've read say pretty much what I wanted to say, so it seems you've covered most everything that needed to be said. Thanks and I look forward to your next video.
As always, a clean and simple tutorial...
More please...
A basic technique but one every modeler needs to master! You kept it short and simple, very well done 👍
So much good information and great camera work too - a very professional and useful video.
There’s no waffle or wastage here, just a well put together vlog. I can’t think of one thing that could make it any better.
Well Done 10/10. A Masterclass.
Your videos are extremely well done. Not only do you create excellent models, which it is clear you are passionate about, you take the time to document your work. As a former Art teacher I would have loved to have you as a student! Keep up the excellent work, on the bench AND online.
Thank you very much, Jason!
excellent video and makes weathering easy. always found weathering on alot of videos quite hard and fustrating especially knowing what equipment to have for the intended effect. always good to see friendly, down to earth videos to get more people into the RC hobby
that's what i like, straight to the point on how, why to use and application of the product, great tutorial
+Ken Sturrock thank you! I'm glad you liked it.
That was a quick and easy demo, very helpful insight into your work process :)
Excellent introduction for me as a beginner, thanks!
Absolutely terrific how-to. Thanks for making. Dave
Asum you explain everything great. This will make it easier to try . Thanks alot
Simple technic for great effect. Thanks for your very clear and concise tutorial. I'm building models for years, but it's very interesting technics you're using with impresive results.
The UA-cam preview caption says you are “Parents or Mice 36”. 😂
+TheSaturnV well I did kind of mumble so I'm surprised they can even decipher that much :D
Very nice vid. I'm coming back to modelling after a long period away; it's amazing how much you forget, or how many techiniques need a memory refresh or a brush up. Would like to see a vid on the whitewash too.
I'm assuming you're a Rush fan considering your user name?
@@SmallSoldier Yeah unfortunately (or fortunately) so, depending on your point of view I guess.
No for the good man, Rush is Epic! Too bad they're caput. I proudly sport the classic Rush t-shirt in one of my videos.
What do you guys think is the most effective weathering technique? Also, if you have any tips for others trying out the pinwash, post them down below!
I started using streaking effects and filters recently, and they add soooo much for the model. I use pre-made stuff for the most part, and they help immensely.
Great video! Id really like to apply this method to some Bolt Action US tanks. I'm using Vallejo Model paints which have rather chalky matte finish. My question is are you using [or would you] use a varnish before the pin wash or apply the wash directly over the paints? Thank you for your time and videos!
awesome as always Evan, simplest techniques are sometimes the best 👍🏻
You’re channel is AWESOME!
Thankyou so much...as a beginner this is simply awesome!
Well done. Awesome video. Really good tutorial Evan
Excellent tutorial! Best explanation of a pin wash I have seen. Thanks!
Ive been using that panel liner used for Gundam, Im going to advance and start weathering correctly. Very good tutorial
For acrylic paint: use a pin or two of dish soap, equal parts water, and then add the color of your choice. Use a detail brush to catch the blobs… let dry, wipe off and do highlights, and clear coat.
Finally a good simple tutorial
Great tutorial Evan, ohh the backhand on the acrylics..that was good because it did drive the point home. 🤣 I'm going to try this on my next tank build.
Thank you Panzermeister36 , I to would like A dust effects video .
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing i really love this technique it's absolutely perfect for model railroad equipment looking forward to more tutorials from you on this tank build I hope you touch upon dust effects on this green tank I need a tuneup thanks again
My weathering test subject is model that I didn’t paint didn’t do any thing at all just assembled it so I think that’s a good test subject!
Awesome tips here! Can't wait to put them to use in future builds
Valuable information here.So I subscribed. Thank you.
So simple yet so effective. Great advice.
Great video. Learned tons. Thank you.
Thank you, very informative video .
Truly revealing look forwards to visiting again.
Thanks for the informative video, very helpful as I have only done one pinwash and struggled with it , look forward to the next one
Excellent... Can't wait for another model build!!
Thank you for the tips, very informative, really enjoyed.
no, that T-40 is not cute.
it’s freakin’ adorable.
Have you tried the OPR technique where instead of layering multiple filters and washes you just do everything at once? Using the oil paint to color modulate, filter, wash, and highlight all in one step as you work in small sections and move around the vehicle? I'm more of a traditionalist where one layers multiple effects one step at a time while working on the whole vehicle all at once. But have been checking out a lot of Rinaldi's stuff after hearing you mention him a few times with regard to hairspray chipping
Excellent summary
Well presented.
I found this invaluable thank you.
Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks man great vid, filled in the gaps the other tutorials left out 👌
This is a awesome, good, well done (and other adjectives) video... at least to me. Cheers
Thank you!
Thanks I'm going to try this with my Acrylic paints (it's all I have) on a Space 1999 Eagle model.
I have a question for you, Panzermeister36 (or for anyone else who reads this). I am almost finished building a Renault FT from WW1 (Takom, 1/16 scale), but as used by the Spanish Army in northern Morocco in the 1920s. I implemented a pinwash on the main body of the tank and the turret following your advice from the present video. This was the first pinwash (or in fact, the first weathering of any kind) that I have ever done on a model kit, and I think it has greatly improved the look of the model. Thanks a lot for all your advice! The problem I have now is that, before making the pinwash, I had first airbrushed the treads with Vallejo Gunmetal Grey (77.720). I have seen several photos of Renault FTs in museums with exactly this color for their treads. But now the tread looks out of place because it is so pristine. It's like someone wearing brand new Armani pants with a torn shirt made out of rags. :-P So I would like to weather the tread. I have been reading a lot about tread weathering in internet. Most of what I have seen deals with mud and rust effects, but I don't want to use mud effects nor rust. I just want a track that has had (modest) wear and tear from scraping against rocks, etc. How would you recommend that I do this? Is this simply a case of chipping? If so, what two colors would you recommend for the shallow chips and for the deeper chips? Or should I do some other kind of weathering altogether? (Ah, and the treads are already permanently glued to the tank, so I would not be able to take them apart to paint separately. Of course, I can do some masking, with care not to mess up the main body.)
I think it would be best to repaint the tracks using a paintbrush with a darker brown-grey colour. Then "drybrush" the raised details and edges of the tracks with the gunmetal colour from earlier. This will give them a worn look.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks!
Excellent advice.
This is a very good video on Pin washes. Well done!
Thank you very much :D
Excellent Evan! Cute little tank?... not so much to the poor crews that had to fight in that sucker. LOL. I'd like to see your whitewash techniques, bring_ it_ on!
Very interesting and useful video !
That was the video i was looking for....thanks...
Can I use water color instead for the paint wash because I don’t have any oil paint
great video, and great explained, wow just great work from you.👍
Thank you Thomas :)
I'd like to see the whitewash video .. been trying and failing to do winter camo for quite some time. and the vallejo chipping medium doesnt seem to work right for me either - So another way would be great :D
Nice work mate thanks for sharing till next time have a good one
Nothing but awesome.👍👍👍
Fantastic. I can’t wait to try this out. Thanks!
Very useful thanks
I would like to see the white wash technique. What about doing a video on battle damage?
+CJ Kirkland I have a video on battle damage planned for my T29E3. And the whitewash video will hopefully be up this weekend :)
Well done Sir! Thank you for this video.
thanks for the help
When using a filter do you put the filter on first and then pin wash or pin wash and then a filter
+Android 13 you can do it before or after. Those effects don't really cover each other so the order does not matter too much.
You are awesome ...buddy
What is a 'filter'?
A filter is a thin tint of heavily thinned enamel or oil paints used to blend camouflage colours or to slightly correct the hue of the base colour of your tank.
I usually use revell enamel paints for my models. After i apply the wearther and i want to get rid of the acces paint. How do i not damage the primer?
As always great work!
Subscribed to your channel 👍
Amazing as always. Can you do something on foliage camo and how to realistically attaching it to a tank? Preferably a German tank. Thnx
That is a good idea! I will look into that soon. I have done that a while ago so it would be cool to try it again in a video. Thank you :)
@@Panzermeister36 cool thnx man
I like this video. Must i apply varnish before the wash? Thanks for the information. From belgium. My english isn't good.
It is a good idea to apply a gloss or semi-gloss varnish before the wash. However it is not always required.
Basically the varnish is to do two things:
1.- protect the base acrylic paints against the thinners in the wash. This is relevant to water-based acrylics like Vallejo or Mig. This is not relevant to alcohol-based or lacquer paints like Tamiya, Gunze, AK Real Color.
2.- provide a smooth surface so that the wash flows into all the details nicely.
You require the varnish if your base paint is susceptible to the thinners in the wash, or if the surface is matte and the wash is not going to flow nicely.
Personally I can achieve a very smooth application of Tamiya acrylics so sometimes I don't even need the varnish, since Tamiya is durable. But, really no harm can come from applying the varnish anyways, so you can always apply the varnish to feel confident.
Hopefully that is clear. Please ask if you have further questions.
I use Acrylic or Lacquer. VMS Satin is my favorite. Enamel varnishes would be attacked by the enamel thinner in the washes.
Does this mean i just need oil paint and some oil paint thinner and i can make my wash for enamel painted models?
thanks
Thanks
have you video about winter camouflage painting, like this tank?
I will be making a tutorial on how I did this very soon! Maybe it will be done for Saturday.
Thank you! It’s a nice video. I did a pin wash over a satin varnish to my Tiger I. However, the varnish seems to peel and flake off when I’m removing the excess of the wash. I’ve already tried to be gentle to avoid accidentally rubbing off the varnish but it still comes off after a few stroke. How could I fix it?
I can imagine two problems that could cause this. I'll need you do answer the two following questions so I can give you the right solution:
1. What varnish did yo use (type, company, what thinner did you use when spraying it, etc.)2. What thinner were you using to clean up the pinwash?
Panzermeister36 1. For the varnish I use Vallejo Satin varnish (the small 17mL but not the polyurethane large bottle one) thinned down with water. Also I don’t have an airbrush so the varnish was brushed on with two layers. I also make sure the layer of varnish has fully cured before applying the next one.
2. I use Daler Rowney low odour thinner
Your pinwash thinner seems like it's not very strong so I doubt it was the issue...In that case, I think it was the varnish. Vallejo paints are quite weak as far as acrylics go. Weak as in not very durable. However, stronger varnishes might be harder to brush paint. I would recommend a lacquer varnish that comes in a spray can, like Tamiya or Testors. Use a gloss spray before the pinwash and oil weathering, and then matte spray afterwards. Just be careful to spray it on in a few thin layers and from at least 18 inches away, since cans don't offer a huge amount of control and spraying too close or too heavy will risk giving the varnish a poor finish. Also, sorry I took a few days to reply. UA-cam marked your reply as spam (no idea why -- it doesn't have links or anything) and hid it away.
Panzermeister36 thank you! I live in HK so Testor isn’t really available for me. I think I’ll go for Tamiya or Mr Hobby. My Hobby offers Topcoat, which is acrylic-based, and Super Clear, which is lacquer-based. Will lacquer-based be too strong for my Vallejo model colour basecoat and decals and should I go for Topcoat instead? Thanks a lot for your help. I don’t have an airbrush so I brush painted all the paint jobs.
I think Topcoat will be strong enough :)
Hi Panzermeister ... many thanks for this nice tutorial :-) ... greetings make*
Thank you very much!
awesome vid as always
Hi, I’ve been watching your tutorial playlist and learned a lot. But a little confused, because on some you say you don’t gloss or varnish after paint but on this one you do ? Thanks for great videos 👍
I will use a satin or semi-gloss varnish these days before the wash to help it flow more easily.
@@Panzermeister36 ok thanks mate, just wanted to make sure… also do you lock in after each procedure or at the very last when all finished or not at all.. thanks for your help.
No worries. I do not varnish after each step, usually the oil or enamel will dry pretty well after 24 hours. After I complete all the weathering steps -- wash, dust effects, grime, dot filter, etc. -- then I will apply a final matte varnish to protect it from handling, and also to get rid of any shiny gloss that remains. Real vehicles are pretty matte.
@@Panzermeister36 ahh great, thank you very much for taking the time and getting back to me and making things clearer for me.
Loved the dust n dirt tutorial and making it so easy to understand. Thank you buddy 😊
Superb brush control, am quite envious. How long should you leave it to dry before doing more work, eg pigments, without reactivating it?
Usually 24 to 48 hours is fine. I use modelling oil paints so they dry pretty quickly...24 hours is enough.
Great video Panzerdude ;)
Not bad sir. In games we call this a dirt pass. It's the first thing you do when texturing. Most powerful thing in both types of models. I thought you didn't clear coat.
Hey man, can I ask what compressor and tank you use or what you would recommend? I'm just starting out so don't want to break the bank but want something quality. Thanks, and thanks for all the great videos!
Can you apply oil wash on an acrylic painted model?
Thanks heaps
hello, been watching many of your tutorials , tell me what brush is that? the metalic one. thanks
Royal & Langnickel Zen 73 series multimedia brushes.
@@Panzermeister36ok.thanks
They hold up well to the enamel thinners we use. And they're also quite cheap!
@@Panzermeister36 i didnt find a place to buy in Romania 😂 give me an online shop
Any disadvantage to using Enamel weathering over oil?
Thank you
Hi im new to modeling can you apply a pin wash over mr hobby super clear matt or will the enamel thinner react thanks in advance
Excellent Tutorial!!, Can layers of paint be added above the effect already made with oil and enamel products previously? a kind of double or triple chipped effect with a final layer of a washable color like a white. (as if a layer of paint on the previous deterioration had been added due to the urgency of the war situation). Greetings from Argentina!!
Yes, that would be no problem at all! Once dry (after 24 hours for these modelling oil paints...maybe a little longer for artist's oils), the oil paints are pretty durable.
What are your thoughts on Tamiya’s Panel Line accent products (Black, Brown, Grey)? Are these enamel pin washes?
Yes they're enamel washes like those from AK, Mig AMMO, Wilder, etc. The Tamiya Panel Liners are very good quality.
What do you think about ak interactive wash for german dark yellow? Basically a darker yellow colour wash, better than a brown wash?
Great video evan! I was wondering, can you use artist enamel thinner/artist white spirits in place of say the model brander thinner or zippo fluid? Thanks!
+Michael Piakamlue I'm not exactly sure. I think you should be able to, but I would be worried that some artist-level thinners are too strong and might attack your varnish and damage the model. So best to test it out a little bit first to make sure it will work well.
Hey Panzerbro, I'm starting a Tiger soon from the Tamiya Early kit. Should I invest in an eduward photoetch?
+Havanadog 7 I would definitely recommend PE for the engine deck vents at least. Aber and others make little sets of that. The full PE sets are a lot of work, and I wouldn't even use all the parts myself...generally some are too small or fiddly and would end up looking worse than plastic detail after I'm done with it! But if you're feeling up to it, then go for it...it will really improve the detail.
Panzermeister36 think I’ll do PE engine grilles and cut fenders out of brass. Thanks for the tip!
I'm not sure what Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color is made of. Is it an oil, enamel, or acrylic? It says you clean it up with enamel thinner. I imagine you could use this as well for pin washing, your thoughts?
It is an enamel wash designed for pin washes :)
WOOt! Thx buddy!
Hey Panzermeister
I have a bit of a problem
I sprayed my tank model with tamiya TS-80 dull coat and a few days later I tried using enamel thinner to clean the wash I applied
But for some reason it turned the the dull coat white
What can I do to fix the white areas ?
can i use the MIG PRODUCTIONS ENGINE GRIME on a plastice body tank for pinwash like you did
You could, but you may want to test first. Reason is: some of the enamel products like that designed to simulate grease/grime dry with a glossy finish to make it look wet. That will look odd as a pinwash. So I would test to see if your product there will dry gloss or matte.
Mate Huge thanks from My Channel To Yours had to Sub doing a Build of so to speak with 2 other mates on UA-cam and well I know they have not heard of you, We are doing The Panzer 4 F Afrika Corps, So Thanks for all your brilliant tutorials Cheers Jason, PS This is My First ever tank Build in 48yrs of Modelling
The thinner my dad has says "Recordsol Thinner" is that too strong? Or will it work okay? I hope I'm not bugging you with all my questions. Keep up the good work!
I expect that to be far too strong. We try to use gentle artist's paint thinners in this hobby otherwise you will damage underlying paint and plastic.
@@Panzermeister36 I used it already and it worked perfectly. Thanks
Would you recommend Tamiya panel liners thinned and mixed for the pin wash? Can they be reactivated? Thanks!
Tamiya Panel Line washes should work well for the wash unthinned. They are enamel washes and come prethinned in the bottle. They should work just fine!
Panzermeister36 ok thanks! And they wouldn’t have to be thinned even for a pin wash? Thanks
I keep trying this but most of the times when the oil color dries (I usually use black), it becomes grey and most of it is AROUND the panel line, but when I try to remove excess then the wash INSIDE the panel is removed, +when there are really small details it just doesn't wants to go inside the line.
I'm pretty cursed whatever I do.
when i try to do a pinwash (im new) i used a matt varnish and then my pinwash spreads out like you said, is that solely because of my matt varnish?
For the semi gloss varnish placed before the pin wash is it acrylic or enamel based?
Always acrylic. If it's enamel based it will be killed by the enamel thinner in the wash.