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How to Router an Electrical Box in Drywall!!!
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2020
- Clear, easy to follow instructions for GREAT RESULTS!!!
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Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=109961...
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Drywall router Amazon Links!!!!!!
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Thanks for the great quality videos with awesome explanations. Your videos helped me and my girlfriend do a massive home renovation (drywalling, ceiling scraping, painting, flooring, baseboards, new lights) You're a beauty🤘
Make a mark on the floor where the box is one less number to remember. A good Sparky will be consistence height
Sweet. Just about to buy a cordless box cutter and had never used one before. Just want to say thanks man . You have helped me more than you know over the past few months. I actually look forward to doing drywall now. Mainly a finish carpenter. But now I can enjoy either.
That is the first good you tube description of how to rotozip a box that I’ve seen as a newby, thanks.
Your videos have helped massively in my Living Room Reno. I actually enjoy sorting out issues in walls now!
Excellent step by step ….. as someone who used to work in the trades but not much drywall experience your videos are extremely helpful!!!! Thank you from Idaho… grad high school on Van. Island
1:07 The "I messed up" laugh
So funny
I’m glad I don’t feel so bad at sucking at drywall router work now. I’m just a DIY homeowner so I only have my own house to finish remodeling. I’ve used your mudding techniques and hawk and trowel tutorial. You make mudding look ***so easy****. It isn’t. Just like any skilled job it takes practice, practice, practice. I have attempted to use my 2 drywall router tools and even going the correct way the the correct bit I still ate up a plastic box. So much I pulled the drywall back off and replaced it. Used the measurement and cut method to better success. If I made a video of it It would probably get stolen and used by others to make millions on laughs. So I still enjoy your content and teaching and cheers from Washington State.
Cutting Inside electrical box, doors windows cut clockwise but outside of the electrical box cut counter clockwise so your bit cutting doesn't run away on you. Use the depth guide to make sure the bit is guided by the smooth tip.
Depth guide gets immediately removed
@@Trashbag_Full_of_Coleslaw 💯
Definitely. If you're hugging the inside edge, go the other way,
Need to start thumbs upping these. Been watching them for a couple years now. Thanks and keep it up
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@@hawkfunmaker3152 Way ahead of you
In Europe we use round boxes, so you can just use a hole saw, push the box in, tighten screws and done
how do u find the center?
In Antarctic we use octal boxes
In England square or oblong
In Australia hexagonal.
@@DerBärator so a map of electrical wires to find behind sheetrock?
and the receptacle do not fasten to 2x4s but fasten to sheetrock?
or do u even use sheetrock?
thanks - this is very interesting do you have a link, i can't seem to find?
Great job! Even though I’ve done this throughout years off and on, I always seem to get it wrong at the beginning of the job.
Sometimes for octagon boxes and spotlight cans on ceilings, if the screws are too far away, the ceiling will sag and create a gap above the trims.
First, I cannot get too much of your videos. I really appreciate that you aren't trying to pretend that videos make you some kind of a movie star and production engineer Your plain speak, conversational approach is the most watcheable how-to videos I've found on any home builder and repair sites.
I've got a mess I'm trying to remodel around. I'll spare you the details, but suffice it to say all drywall had to be removed on the bottom half of the walls throughout the entire basement before I could move in. I gave up after months of finding a reliable and affordable drywall and taping contractor. I'm doing it myself. I've done small repair jobs before, but this is way beyond my experience so your videos are saving my butt. Problem: I really don't want to have to unwire all of the outlets and switches in the room and I'm probably going to have to skim coat every wall because the top half is already textured and painted... I'll never match it. So, professional opinion. Can you reasonably get away with skim coating whole rooms with outlets and switches in place? tricks and techniques would really be appreciated.
Hi Doug. Yes you can. But what I would do is unscrew them and leave them hanging out. Just put electrical tape around it first so you can't bump the little connector screws and get shocked. It's a bit sketchy but that's how its usually done when you don't want to go through reno without removing them.
If you just coat around them in place it will make adjusting them annoying later.
Vancouver, thanks for the tips. I wish you tube would have been here 20 years ago. Things would've been so much easier.
I really like that new drill setup!
" go counter clock wise" thanks thats gona help me alot just the tip I needed
A mistake I made was to use wrong type of bit. I used one that has full cutting flutes right to the tip. Going around a plastic box, I cut right through it! I switched to a bit that has a "pilot guide" on the tip. Works better on both plastic and metal boxes.
Stuff a piece of cardboard in each box before drywalling. This will help hold the wires back from the rotozip.
If the box is near a drywall joint, it will prevent the box from getting packed with mud 🙃
@Yo Mama I hear ya. When I wired houses, I stuffed the boxes so the drywallers didn’t wreak havoc on my shiznit.
Good idea thanks
Just adjust the guard depth to have the bit go just barely deeper than the gyp.
Lmaaaaoooo when the box sparked. You're response is so cool
Thanks again! Learning curve straightened a little more today!
Leveling up drywall finishes worldwide
I apologize if I missed it in the video. But, one important technique you did not mention. You are holding holding slight pressure with your guide hand on the drywall as you are cutting. This is really important on the bottom half of the cut. This is when you can lose the box edge as a guide.
Thanks! But I wish ya posted this last week BEFORE I screwed up my project :)
I'm turning my porch into living space and I have to do something like this with a box that's going through new sheathing and drywall. For the sheathing, I'll just try to measure as carefully as I can and cut out the square on the work table. For the DW, maybe something like this. Thanks for demonstrating
I'm good with measurements so I just cut the hole before putting the drywall up. No holding the drywall away from the studs either. To each his own.
Recently installed a new work PVC box in the states, nailed to the face of the stud and the tab was 1/16 inch. Screwed in the panel and got a huge bump over the tab. Now I must feather it out a long way. So yeah, don't screw near the box.
most excellent tutorial... minor suggestion... when you measure from the floor up, measure the top of the box... plunge on the outside of the box... stay, outside the box... who knows... the sparkies might even thank you for it....
From the electrician's point of view...be careful when you stab into the box. If/when that long bit hits the wire, the wire often has to be replaced. This is usually not noticed until elec. trim out and by then the hangers and tapers are long gone. :) I am learning a lot from you though. Glad to see someone that is quality driven.
I could watch this allllll day. ;)
After doing several of these I've reached the conclusion that it's much better to NOT skip over the edge of the box. Instead, I simply cut out the inside of the box first. THEN, I skip over the box and cut the outside. Eliminates any guessing as to where you actually are and reduces the chance you'll accidentally cut into one of the tabs that take the screws from the outlet/switch. Also, I actually like the depth guide as it helps line up the tip with the box.
also takes twice as long, should not be to bad I just skip over it and go fairly slow till I find one corner then I know where the rest are.
I find more chance of hitting wires cutting inside
Thank you your explanation working on drywall …❤😊
always coming up with the new content! this new house style
Love the screw autofeed
Adjust your depth guard so the bit is just deeper than the thickness of the gyp. You won’t snag wires or extend into the wall too deep.
Always so good Ben! Great tip about not putting a screw near the box. Do you have any tips on how to tape around wonky boxes near a corner? You know the one, where you’re trying to skim and the box has a funny angle so you can’t get smooth....hate that !
Thank-you. I learned something.
Use the back of a wooden handle hammer and before you hang your sheet...jam the wires back as far as they will go in the box. Works good and should not have any sparks like he did. It gets interesting when the outlet or switch is already installed like on a remodel. My guys do it..but I haven't tried that. Lol
Great work great vid, keep it up
Great work
Thumbs up. I enjoy your videos
Another great video! I'm happy to see our techniques are very similar with the RotoZIP 👍 wondering where to get the drywall lift bar??
Here in massachusetts they teach the sheet rockers to cut out the boxes with their eyes closed. And they don't measure anything, they just guess. Live wires only slows them down
Nuts. Hence why NEC is so anal...
Explains why some sheet rockers have hair that stand straight up and walk with an uncontrollable twitch.
@@bay9876 that's the booze
@@adfadgaqgv and the Twisted Sister look.
Haha
I need to get one of those
I just use my blind mark to do these no measurements needed at all... Though your results still look much better than mine. I've always done outside in and not paid attention to clockwise vs counterclockwise. means more likely to need to close the gap. The not putting a screw next to the box is a new one on me. I flooded in 2016 and took a "class" on drywall hanging from some local contractors and was always told to put a screw next to the box after cutting it out... interestingly i've also had to repair a lot of blowouts/cracks/screws sinking too deep next to the boxes after....
Where was this 8 months ago? However your patching can light videos were VERY helpful!
I am but a simple man... I see a new video by Vancouver Carpenter... and I LIKE before the video begins!
There are plenty of videos on how to cut around outlets with a roto zip, but I've yet to find one that shows an outlet being cut out that's on an outside wall with a plastic vapour barrier. How would you go about this without damaging the vapour barrier?
Hey man, I love your channel. I was wondering how much do you guys charge in Vancouver for drywall installation? How about drywall and taping. How about drywall taping sanding and primer? You mind
Telling the price of each one of those per square foot or per sheet.
I’m in Toronto, I was wondering if your prices there are similar to ours. I need to give a customer a quote and I use to do this by hour now I’m self employed so I’m not good at giving quotes just yet.
Title should be how to use leftover insulation to fill wall cavities.
It's like a dull rainbow of insulation
Awesome!
Vapors around the boxes but not vapor barrier?
Can you use the rotozip or other rotary drywall cutting tools for demo and remodel?
I use a rotozip take out drywall and cut panels using a straight edge and the rotozip. You can even cut wood with the rotozip using the proper bit
So a special bit is needed to router around boxes?
one of those dam things roto demon tool took my thumb off! its most dangerous tool ive ever seen! went wrong way like you mentioned it was locked on and gripped and dragged across wood wrong way into other hand took thumb right off all i felt was cold feeling tingling the speed of the bit carterized wound a little didnt bleed much i could smell the best steak cooking ive ever smelled realized it was me! shock sit in and the pain omg ! was worse than gun shot! two years later my thumb itches all the time but weird because its in jar of alchhol on my dresser! but i can still feel my thumb itch daily but theres nothing to stracth doctor says there phatom pains and feeling muscle memory!
Can you put a link to the router bit?
Everyone knows that dry-wallers make the holes way too big or forget the boxes entirely.
@Johnny AppleStead I guess you’re not an electrician
What are the tools you are using to screw the gyp bd?
Can you put this bit at the end of a drill?
Why are the electrical boxes keeping the drywall from touching the stud? I would think the plastic box would absolutely not do that. The mud ring on the metal box might be pushing back on the drywall some if it isn't installed far enough back?
Wondering why vertical over horizontal?
I hung 1/2” drywall sheets parallel to the wood on 24” centre’s on a ceiling should I be worried about it
it will sag
where can you buy that auto feed attachement?
believe its in the hilti tool video
what tool is that you are drilling with?
Any advice for using an oscillating multi-tool instead? My router is way too big for this sort of thing.
I havent personally used them but: www.homedepot.com/p/Q-Bit-2-3-8-in-X-3-3-4-in-1-Gang-Old-Work-Box-Saw-SQ1000-S/313026041
@@thoughtlesskills Cool! I've only got seven or eight to do, so I don't think I can justify the price. My concern is cutting in the wrong spot. I'm good at measuring, but really slow. I have a Dremel tool. Maybe I can use it to find the edges from the front with Ben's approach, then follow up with the multitool for the cuts?
manyirons - if you are not being sarcastic, does your multi-tool have a removable head? If yes, you might be able to get a head that can take one of these bits. (Rigid has this) . When these type of drywall bits came out, guys would take the motor out of a small router and use it freehand, but now you can buy much smaller dedicated tools like the one shown here. I have a corded Dewalt one, but it hasn't been used much since I got the Rigid one that goes on the cordless oscillating tool body. (love the cordless, no trailing wires when up on ladders etc)
@@VC-Toronto Not being sarcastic in any way. Unless it's only a few dollars, I have no interest in buying a new tool for such a small job. I can do it with what I have on hand. The question was how to do it better with what I have on hand.
what do you use the drywall hammer for?
it's the 'cool' factor....
Aren't you supposed to make the cut outs before you install the sheer rock?
These are mud boxes. Meaning you mud them , you don't cut more than you should
@Johnny AppleStead 4x4 box with a mudring.
You hung the drywall sheets vertically, most of the time I see them hung horizontally. Can you do a quick explanation on that? Is it just user preference or a reason why you do it either way?
No butt joints on walls.
@@KSteinkruger ah ok. Yea that makes sense
One of the key reasons you don't do this normally, avoiding all butt joints on a wall, is that you only have the 1 1/2" of the 2x4 to screw into which would be bad trying to squeeze the joining edges. Here they have some interior wall that has the boards with 3 1/2" face so there is plenty of room. I'm doing this (as I have horizontal hat channel as my 'studs') and find that mudding joints that from floor to ceiling is harder and slower than horizontal ones. But for my purposes I will take that vs having to deal with butt joints.
What kind of monster puts electrical boxes so close to a corner?
Bro the hilti attachment kills it no cap
What is the reason you are installing the drywall vertically? I have always been told that you are supposed to install it horizontally.
You install drywall however it fits best either vert or horizontal
I always hung it horizontally, but very recently did a basement and hung it vertically ... zero butt joints as I was taping tapered edges... will ALWAYS hang vertically whenever possible from now on.
@@newname363 Pretty much the same thing happened with me on a kitchen remodel, it was almost like a revelation!! Lol! No butt joints makes me a very, very, happy guy!
Most drywalls are installed horizontally for less visible joints, but I see you installed them vertically. Any reason for that?
Don't have to tape the butts. Plus taping butts technically makes the wall stick out more. If the framing is good, and drywall finishing is good, then you shouldn't see anything noticeable.
There are only 2 reasons to do it like that, Either for fire rating, where there needs to be solid backing behind the joint, or because you can not get longer board into that area, say a basement or second/third story with a tight staircase. Hanging vertically gives far more joints to coat and uses far more mud. No professional taper, given the option, wants the board hung vertically. A few butt joints is not a big deal compared to 30-40 floor to ceiling flats.
@@Trashbag_Full_of_Coleslaw you should let all the drywallers in my area know this. They universally hang sheets vertically, this is in industrial new construction like schools.
@@Mudder1310 on commercial work verticals sheets are proper sheet installation
He's a dipshit. He only makes videos for idiots. He only keeps comments from people who don't know what they are doing and deletes the pros comments. No pro would ever hang sheets vertically
Ok... its r22.5 its an exterior wall... where's the vapor barrier?!!! Am I missing something?
Nice job and excellent explanation.. question where do you get the attachment for the milwaukee screwgun?
IDK why is power in that box????16 inch from floor to center.idk
👍👍👍👍
... or you don't bother to cut out the box. I just played the game of "Where does the switch to nowhere go?", and luckily with some circuit tracing equipment, I found the buried box (since the electrician who mounted to missing box didn't notice/ care either). :-\
If the box was mounted properly you should have noticed a bluged or broken drywall boxes are suppose to stick out so there flush with the outside of the drywall
@@hotrodpaully1 Unfortunately, all the boxes throughout the place are recessed back into the drywall by a pretty decent amount, so the bulge wasn't very apparent. Exacerbating the problem was that the electricians were long gone and the construction manager said it would be a ceiling-mounted fixture, when it was actually wall-mounted.
Good practicing. One questing is, how to clean the burrs on edge of the cutout?
No need. If the painter sands after priming they get knocked down to an acceptable level.
and if your cut is tight the cover plate SHOULD cover it. unless it was overcut.
No need
I do it on everything I do for my own remodel work and friends though I pre-cut, I don't use the Dremel/rotozip, as I'm not doing it as a job where speed is more important than fiddly details like this. Just use my utility knife, with new blade, at an 45 to shave off a tiny amount of the edge to get anything that is hanging out.
there's a lot of nail plates missing
Don't know code in Canada but I suspect they wouldn't' be needed here because what we are looking at is 2x4's on top of the studs so it is an additional 1 1/2" away from the wire run. Code in US for the nail plates is 1 1/4" or less from wood edge to hole and that additional 2x4 would add that distance on top of whatever distance there is with the studs behind that surface.
never been a fan of routering boxes.....most never take that much care in doing their job
Why isn't there a vapor barrier over the insulation? Is that an outside wall or is that insulation just for sound proofing?
Can't speak to Canada's code but you do not actually need a vapor barrier in many climates. ua-cam.com/video/q8fOMBlfh3A/v-deo.html
Superb quality throughout, easy to assemble. I found the saw to be highly accurate and a delight to use (I am a homeowner using this saw for various projects). I attached the saw to a folding mobile stand to save space and that works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe as well. However, you have to be sure the saw is securely locking in position before collapsing the stand. I've had many of the brands over the years and have come to point where I only buy Bosch, the extra money is a small price to pay for the quality and ease of use. Treat yourself to the best.
Apparently a few haters in the comments on this one Ben. Haters gonna hate I guess. What you showed is industry standard, although you seem to whine less then the drywaller's I've met.😉😂😂
My router goes better clockwise
First!
👍🏻
As an electrician I hate these rotary tools. Guys rush, or don’t care, they gouge my wires and over cut boxes. No one wants to have to do work twice and it seems like these cause it more often than other methods for the sake of speed and ease.
Can the bit get set to a depth of 5/8 or something so it cuts only the drywall
@robbbenedict I've seen most of them come with a depth guard, but most drywallers get rid of them and learn to guess the depth.
Don't you feel sorry for us old fogeys who used manual tools.
I'm pretty sure they didn't have laser levels when they built Chichen Itza.
No papi, let me give you better advise latino style; go buy that cordless Makita router (NO, not the weak ass Makita cordless drywall router), the ones for carpentry. Buy it solo for like 100 bucks, which is similar to that weak ass drywall router price, get used Makita batteries off fleabay, super cheap they last many more years because capped, and quality. Finally, buy a weird 1/4 adapter (Rotozip CH01) for that router that lets you use roto zip bits with a guiding ballpoint. The carpentry router has a lot of balls, and is super light. I added a clip to the router, and hang it on my belt like a motherfucker.
3:51 "as you can see that a perfect fit around that" LMAO maybe in your world but that looks pretty shitty to me
The still shot looks like it's going to be about how add a new window in an airplane. Very disappointed.
Don't you just wish your part of the world switched to the electrical EU standard? We have it SO much easier. Always round holes, always run wires through houses. I feel sorry for how much you have to work simply because you are so behind in the development :( All we have to do is put a magnet in the outlet, put the drywall on the wall, place the second magnet on the wall, and use a hole saw on the second magnet and we always get a perfect result every time. The first magnet also protects all cables in the box.
Please post to Parler and Rumble. There are a lot of people leaving this site due to unfair policies.
Cut out your holes before you install drywall
Yeah what was the reason for hanging first?
The rotozip method is way way faster.
@Don Narine The electrician should know to push the wires to the back of the box during rough-in, even if only because drywall hangers do not usually check this and if they rotozip a wire short, the electrician will have to come back and fish new wire. Second, if the rotozip is set to the correct depth, only the tracer tip penetrates beneath the drywall and it is not actually possible to cut wires. Third, Ben just got unlucky. Everyone makes mistakes at least occasionally.
Don Narine Yet you keep watching? I watch because he always impresses.
Its a mud box. If you cut more than you have to before it will crack. If you cut to short it will not get any mud in the hole