I just want you to know I love this series. I own this exact car and I’m tackling almost all the same maitnence. I really really really appreciate this series.
Healthiest and best way to warm up the car is to start driving 10-20 seconds after you start the engine but very slowly with low rpms. When you let it idle for 10 minutes, engine gets warmer slowly which leads to engine wearing. You need to get the engine oil hot as fast as possible, best way to do it is to drive it not idling it for 5-10 minutes.
@@vladstoicoviciu1275 Same here. People are stuck in the past! Same thing with airplanes, you NEVER idle. Best example is when people idle for the cold weather -_-
My neighbor already went through an old Toyota corolla, and a dodge 2500 with the cummins earlier this year. Both shit the bed. He is now on his third vehicle this year. He literally lets them "Warm up" for 20 fucking minutes. Before he goes ANYWHERE. I asked him wtf is up and he refused to listen to me that he needs to get the shit moving and get the oil pressure up.
Rheinmetall is a German military/defense contractor. They made great stuff and unlike conventional suppliers/vendors they have strict audits and quality controls related to federal work.
My uncle is an aerospace metal inspector once worked for rheinmetal.. It's a military ammunition and armored vehicle manufacturer and they have a branch here in South Africa tho I think they based in Germany
Hey Christian, just wanted to comment on how much I appreciate your content. Learned a lot about BMW maintenance watching your videos. I have a 2014 f30 335i similar to the one you have. It’s stock right now but I keep up with the maintenance regularly. I now want to boost the horsepower and torque. I was thinking 500-550 hp. Similar to a m5. Just wanted your expertise on the parts I would need to accomplish this. I don’t really know much about performance techniques. I know your website has some of the items available. Again, appreciate you and the content. Keep up the good work. 🙏🏿
Do you mean 500-550 hp at the crank or the wheels? You can get close to 500 CRANK hp (400WHP) by going FBO (dp, cp, IC) with a tune and E30. That’s absolutely maxing out the stock turbo and stock fuel system - any more power than that, you’ll need to either upgrade your HPFP or add a port injection setup, and you’ll want to look at turbo upgrades. Most popular is Pure Stage 2, which is good for up to ~500ish whp if you have enough fueling and a good tuner. Want more than that? Look into Big Boost stage 3, or speedtech. Or wait for Pure Stage 3… But then you’re approaching the limit of the stock motor and the trans. These cars are awesome IMO if you’re content with 400whp. Any more and you’re better off saving for an F80.
@@boxdoesgames Thanks for the reply. Info definitely answered a lot of ??? Do you think it’s best to go ahead and upgrade the inter cooler, radiator, oil cooler, sparkplugs, intake, chargepipe and boost pipe if I get the car tuned. The 500 horsepower was to the wheel not crank.
This channel is goated asf. I’ve learned so much about the F30 chassis. Going to get a 3 series today (either ‘14 328i or ‘13 335i). Hope things go well. Thanks man ! Hopefully things go well
I bought my first BMW a 2008 335xi five years ago with 89K miles. It was definitely not abused, looked brand new and I’ve done my PM and not modded it at all. Amazing ride. I still have it but just bought a two year old X3M competition from my best friend and I’m planning on taking care of it as well. He did add about $20K of exhaust, carbon fiber, race chip integrated radar with laser jammer and I’m hoping to still be enjoying for another 15 years at which time I’ll get an electric bimmer.
The e90s cooling parts failed as expected easy to fix, injectors are not 12s but are fine as well as no turbo noise. I did have to replace shocks and alternator and valve cover gasket but those are an easy DIY and I now have fcpeuro lifetime warranty
Easier way of doing the oil pump is lining up cylinder one so it’s easy to access once pump is removed. Stick a drill bit in the sprocket and remove the sprocket bolt
I’m actually strongly considering taking my n54 e60 to your shop for the engine out service. You guys really seem to know your stuff with these motors and here in Tampa i haven’t found many shops that really specialize in bimmers. Respect. Look forward to it in the near future.
after a decade of owning bmws you are spot on, and this would be true for almost every car i've ever owned but especially for bmw...they are cheap out of production...anyone that replaces things with oem parts is just wasting money for a weak item that will fail later...aftermarket parts all the way. that being said, i really like the F30 platform as yes they are cheaper (still 50k msrp) to mod compared to every other model they have
This is more preventative maintenance considering this wasnt a common issue on the N55. It did occur on some of the early engines which is 2011 but even then it wasnt a common failure like it was on the other engines that were mentioned. Change your oil every 5k and keep the revs down till the engine fully warms up and you’ll be fine.
I blame BMW with that 12000 mile oil change interval just so they can try to keep maintenance costs down. With how hot these engines run, it should be a crime to recommend stupid stuff like that. Change it every 5, keep ya car alive.
@@MrRohanThomas mine has 110k miles been tuned with bolt one since I had it. Stage 2 blah blah blah. Bought it used with 40k. Only thing I’ve had to do on my car is Thermostat, charge pipes, and engine oil cooler gasket.
@@MrRohanThomas you must have never owned an N55 im at 160k doest burn a drop of oil and runs like a new car. Mind you ive been tuned for the past 2 years which theoretically should hurt reliability, but instead its great and HAULS ASS.
I have actually done my sump gasket on floor jacks (F30 335i). Had to remove the whole subframe not just lower it. Definitely needs two people. But it’s doable.
Wait a minute, did he just clap those oil pan bolts in with an impact? 23:30 You should NOT do that with aluminium bolts, same goes for the oil pump bolts. TTY Aluminium bolts have specific tightening steps. Edit: 25:00 you shouldn't tighten the control arm bushings when the car isn't set on it's wheels, it will tear up all the bushings within a couple of days.
u guys can put the s55 oil pan and pump on it.jus use the s55 sprocket also w/ same n55 chain. these bearings fail cause cornering high speed g force oil cant get to bearings properly
I got my n54 335i at 165k miles 🥴. I have been driving it to 172k miles now and Blackstone says I'm good to go but after your video on the oil analysis I'm heavily leaning to getting my rod bearings done. I have all the parts already but its 3k in labor only if not more. Also I am FBO with 19t and a custom 91 map at 20 psi and an e30 map at like 23 ish. The car has lasted for a year and a half tuned. I got to pull the band aid off on this one huh. Are timing chain guides an issue on the n54 at such crazy high mileage or is it not an issue. Also I wanna get PI and make 600 whp so...
I traded my n54 335 over a year ago for a Toyota. Long story short. I’m sick of dealing with yota and I’m looking at x3 m40i. Miss driving the beemers. Good choice or will it be another money pit
careful with the M3 control arms.... it does not fit if you have an xDrive model..... it will mess up your steering and front drive train if you put M3 control arms onto the xDrive..... just ask Brian from the Kies Motosports UA-cam channel who found out the hard way.....
meanwhile my bmw f30 has been tuned and modded and i run the doggggggggggg shit outta my car while creeping up to 150k miles. i have NEVER EVER had an issue with my car ... nor has anyone else that i know who owns f30 335.... so YOUR 335 f30 is ass doesn't mean all of them are.... chill with the "clapper" shit bro... its soo annoying!
If it is not knocking it could certainly fix it. There are other places the metal could be coming from, however. (Can ledges, broken timing chain guide allowing metal to metal contact, etc)
Just fyi. You did not need to remove all that to remove the oil pump. Removing The two bolts on the side of the oil pump sprocket would allow you to take out the oil pump. But I guess doing the front main isn’t a bad idea
This is how I did it. Just don't rotate the engine when the sprocket is off, or it will tension the chain too far and it's a pain to get the sprocket back on.
I hope you adjusted the torque spec on the wrench when you were doing the bearing caps with the extension on... Otherwise, you're probably like 20lb/ft more than needed
Running OEM mains n rods plus adding boost is a mistake made by rookies. Mostly youtubers tho. Rod bolts dont always work, damage can happen to the the rod. The bolt can stretch in the whole. All of those bearings are not going to be the same size all the way across the shaft. New oil cooler. The oil pump is going to have access metal. 5 x oil change. Most do it wrong on UA-cam 👀 good luck
😯I didn’t know Rheinmetal even make car parts, they are a very reputable military contractor, they make Abrams gun and all the WW2 German tank guns and battleship guns
@@VehicleVirals thank you man I just watched your video and I’m very curious about my bmw 335i xdrive N55. It runs well, but I notice that it leaks oil and coolant. Do you happen to know what is causing it from your experience?
325i aren’t as reliable as e9x 328i. Even the e46 325i had problems. You’re safer with a ‘09-‘11 n52 e9x for similar pricing. And looking out of state can save you some money too. Florida and New York have a ton of good e9x models. Same for the Carolinas
@@Hobiee90m3 if only I could afford that rn lol. Plus my car being a late model 2015 435i gc with regular oil changes for its whole life I'm not too worried
I'm convinced that this is either shock therapy by exposure or you really want to cause as many cardiac arrests as possible. Also I'm seriously not sure whether I want an F series. I've watched a lot of content on the F both from you and Justin, and I'm simply not convinced it's worth it to switch from my E90 330XD. Especially considering mine had everything done that needed to be done to run another 300000 km's.
I just want you to know I love this series. I own this exact car and I’m tackling almost all the same maitnence. I really really really appreciate this series.
💪🏼
Healthiest and best way to warm up the car is to start driving 10-20 seconds after you start the engine but very slowly with low rpms. When you let it idle for 10 minutes, engine gets warmer slowly which leads to engine wearing. You need to get the engine oil hot as fast as possible, best way to do it is to drive it not idling it for 5-10 minutes.
Thank you! I came here to comment the same thing. Just leaving it idling is not what you want to do
@@vladstoicoviciu1275 Same here. People are stuck in the past! Same thing with airplanes, you NEVER idle. Best example is when people idle for the cold weather -_-
My neighbor already went through an old Toyota corolla, and a dodge 2500 with the cummins earlier this year. Both shit the bed. He is now on his third vehicle this year. He literally lets them "Warm up" for 20 fucking minutes. Before he goes ANYWHERE. I asked him wtf is up and he refused to listen to me that he needs to get the shit moving and get the oil pressure up.
Rheinmetall is a German military/defense contractor. They made great stuff and unlike conventional suppliers/vendors they have strict audits and quality controls related to federal work.
N55 used S55 newer rod bearings, 2013 and on. No rod bearing issues at all for those N55 vehicles.
Next car hopefully thinking of getting 2014 active hybrid
My uncle is an aerospace metal inspector once worked for rheinmetal..
It's a military ammunition and armored vehicle manufacturer and they have a branch here in South Africa tho I think they based in Germany
Hey Christian, just wanted to comment on how much I appreciate your content. Learned a lot about BMW maintenance watching your videos. I have a 2014 f30 335i similar to the one you have. It’s stock right now but I keep up with the maintenance regularly. I now want to boost the horsepower and torque. I was thinking 500-550 hp. Similar to a m5. Just wanted your expertise on the parts I would need to accomplish this. I don’t really know much about performance techniques. I know your website has some of the items available. Again, appreciate you and the content. Keep up the good work. 🙏🏿
Do you mean 500-550 hp at the crank or the wheels? You can get close to 500 CRANK hp (400WHP) by going FBO (dp, cp, IC) with a tune and E30.
That’s absolutely maxing out the stock turbo and stock fuel system - any more power than that, you’ll need to either upgrade your HPFP or add a port injection setup, and you’ll want to look at turbo upgrades. Most popular is Pure Stage 2, which is good for up to ~500ish whp if you have enough fueling and a good tuner.
Want more than that? Look into Big Boost stage 3, or speedtech. Or wait for Pure Stage 3… But then you’re approaching the limit of the stock motor and the trans. These cars are awesome IMO if you’re content with 400whp. Any more and you’re better off saving for an F80.
@@boxdoesgames Thanks for the reply. Info definitely answered a lot of ??? Do you think it’s best to go ahead and upgrade the inter cooler, radiator, oil cooler, sparkplugs, intake, chargepipe and boost pipe if I get the car tuned. The 500 horsepower was to the wheel not crank.
Cheapest bmw is the most expensive one
Factual
Bars!!!
That pretty much sums up my F30
I am now shifting to Toyota or Honda. Unless BMW with a 1JZ or 2JZ.
Even some of the expensive ones are expensive lol. Some people are just good at hiding the flaws
This channel is goated asf. I’ve learned so much about the F30 chassis. Going to get a 3 series today (either ‘14 328i or ‘13 335i). Hope things go well. Thanks man ! Hopefully things go well
Guys he’s right, order the upgraded charge pipe. Mine blew as soon as I tuned it. Even if you’re stock- order it! Don’t wait.
I bought my first BMW a 2008 335xi five years ago with 89K miles. It was definitely not abused, looked brand new and I’ve done my PM and not modded it at all. Amazing ride. I still have it but just bought a two year old X3M competition from my best friend and I’m planning on taking care of it as well. He did add about $20K of exhaust, carbon fiber, race chip integrated radar with laser jammer and I’m hoping to still be enjoying for another 15 years at which time I’ll get an electric bimmer.
The e90s cooling parts failed as expected easy to fix, injectors are not 12s but are fine as well as no turbo noise. I did have to replace shocks and alternator and valve cover gasket but those are an easy DIY and I now have fcpeuro lifetime warranty
How much did you scoop up the x3mc for? I'm in the market for one and would love to know what they're going for these days
I am so sorry to hear 🙉 that. Am glad you're getting good content for your channel with so many repairs on this vehicle.
Easier way of doing the oil pump is lining up cylinder one so it’s easy to access once pump is removed. Stick a drill bit in the sprocket and remove the sprocket bolt
I’m actually strongly considering taking my n54 e60 to your shop for the engine out service. You guys really seem to know your stuff with these motors and here in Tampa i haven’t found many shops that really specialize in bimmers. Respect. Look forward to it in the near future.
Respect your love for bmws. Love that your on point with maintenance on your cars
after a decade of owning bmws you are spot on, and this would be true for almost every car i've ever owned but especially for bmw...they are cheap out of production...anyone that replaces things with oem parts is just wasting money for a weak item that will fail later...aftermarket parts all the way. that being said, i really like the F30 platform as yes they are cheaper (still 50k msrp) to mod compared to every other model they have
So glad I have found your channel bro. Very informative. Just recently got me a f30 n55. Doing all the “preventive” maintenance
Great detailed video bro, been waiting for some F30 335i content, keep them coming
This is more preventative maintenance considering this wasnt a common issue on the N55. It did occur on some of the early engines which is 2011 but even then it wasnt a common failure like it was on the other engines that were mentioned. Change your oil every 5k and keep the revs down till the engine fully warms up and you’ll be fine.
I blame BMW with that 12000 mile oil change interval just so they can try to keep maintenance costs down. With how hot these engines run, it should be a crime to recommend stupid stuff like that. Change it every 5, keep ya car alive.
It's really not, this happens even on the most maintained ones, they not built to last
@@MrRohanThomas mine has 110k miles been tuned with bolt one since I had it. Stage 2 blah blah blah. Bought it used with 40k. Only thing I’ve had to do on my car is Thermostat, charge pipes, and engine oil cooler gasket.
@@MrRohanThomas you must have never owned an N55 im at 160k doest burn a drop of oil and runs like a new car. Mind you ive been tuned for the past 2 years which theoretically should hurt reliability, but instead its great and HAULS ASS.
@@gilgonzalez5902what year ?? I have a 2013 bmw 335i fbo stage 2 with 96k miles should I be worried about the rod bearings ?
In Blackstones' defense, they definitely advise that historical analysis is needed to make any real determination. So many more samples over time
Beware of trade in’s & off leased. So many tuned/tracked/neglected, but you know this. I owned an “Is” loved it. Nice channel…
Just bought a 07 335i coupe with rod knock for 2k can’t wait to dump 10k into repairs🥰🥰
How much did u dump
@ so far 5k and not even close to done 🤣
So glad we got new n55 content. It is now flooded with g builds but who cam afford that shit comfortably right now?
He hopped from one bolt to
The other so that it allows it to cool while you’re torquing the other one so that they don’t over stretch
i like how he talks about the car as if it isn’t his car🤣
I have actually done my sump gasket on floor jacks (F30 335i). Had to remove the whole subframe not just lower it. Definitely needs two people. But it’s doable.
Keep grinding you already know the Maintenance is gonna pay off. Much respect and thanks for the constant inspiration 🔥
Just got a 120k mille 2013 335xi and first drive I too after picking it up it started knocking 😢 so ig full forged built here I come
Wait a minute, did he just clap those oil pan bolts in with an impact? 23:30
You should NOT do that with aluminium bolts, same goes for the oil pump bolts.
TTY Aluminium bolts have specific tightening steps.
Edit: 25:00 you shouldn't tighten the control arm bushings when the car isn't set on it's wheels, it will tear up all the bushings within a couple of days.
You should not idle to warm up the engine. Just drive gently for warm up time, then drive normally afterwards and all the engines will be fine.
u guys can put the s55 oil pan and pump on it.jus use the s55 sprocket also w/ same n55 chain. these bearings fail cause cornering high speed g force oil cant get to bearings properly
Something I’ve found to be very true with bmw is if it’s worth 20,000 and you pay 10 for it, you will pay 20,000 one way or the other
Sometimes more 😂
I got my n54 335i at 165k miles 🥴. I have been driving it to 172k miles now and Blackstone says I'm good to go but after your video on the oil analysis I'm heavily leaning to getting my rod bearings done. I have all the parts already but its 3k in labor only if not more. Also I am FBO with 19t and a custom 91 map at 20 psi and an e30 map at like 23 ish. The car has lasted for a year and a half tuned. I got to pull the band aid off on this one huh. Are timing chain guides an issue on the n54 at such crazy high mileage or is it not an issue. Also I wanna get PI and make 600 whp so...
What happened with the control arms? Did you make a proper alignment and what was the outcome in term of camber °?
rheinmetall also makes the 120mm tank guns
*The ultimate clapper he said that killed me* 🤣
Is that Rob Bering torque spec the same for N63tu motors
I was thinking about getting a 2015 or 2016 BMW SUV in May or June. Good idea or bad or which one to get? New Sub. Love your channel.
400k subscribes right around the corner . 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
2008 335xi w/ 177,500 km, original rod bearings, etc. Pulls like a train, consumes oil like its Mac N' Cheese.
Great work I’m going to look into changing my control arms now as well.. Ty Jessssss…
Can you give us the link where you got the m3 control arm for the f30 and the other arm please. Thank you
I traded my n54 335 over a year ago for a Toyota. Long story short. I’m sick of dealing with yota and I’m looking at x3 m40i. Miss driving the beemers. Good choice or will it be another money pit
I never had to pin the oil chain tensioner!
What's your ohilosphy on coated bearings for these motors? (Particularly King's) Is it necessary? FBO now but plan to go PS2. Please advise. Thank you
Can you make a video about how to pick a used 335i
careful with the M3 control arms.... it does not fit if you have an xDrive model..... it will mess up your steering and front drive train if you put M3 control arms onto the xDrive..... just ask Brian from the Kies Motosports UA-cam channel who found out the hard way.....
Did you polish the rods before installing the new bearings or isnt that needed?
meanwhile my bmw f30 has been tuned and modded and i run the doggggggggggg shit outta my car while creeping up to 150k miles. i have NEVER EVER had an issue with my car ... nor has anyone else that i know who owns f30 335.... so YOUR 335 f30 is ass doesn't mean all of them are.... chill with the "clapper" shit bro... its soo annoying!
Maintenance is key with these cars. Once abused, there is no “fixing” it.
I have a N54 with 100,000 miles should do the rod bearings? I plan on pushing the car to 450whp
Yes bro
bought an n55, did oil change & there was small metal pieces in the oil could doing the rod bearing fix it is is the engine done for
If it is not knocking it could certainly fix it. There are other places the metal could be coming from, however. (Can ledges, broken timing chain guide allowing metal to metal contact, etc)
Clappers are half the fun...Got to find all ways to make it better
Do you know if those M control arms will fit on an F30 328i xDrive?
There is no cheap BMWs. Only less money upfront 🤣. Picking up a N54 with 86k miles. Pray for me.
Just fyi. You did not need to remove all that to remove the oil pump. Removing The two bolts on the side of the oil pump sprocket would allow you to take out the oil pump. But I guess doing the front main isn’t a bad idea
This is how I did it. Just don't rotate the engine when the sprocket is off, or it will tension the chain too far and it's a pain to get the sprocket back on.
@@jkoljonen exactly
I just had to rebuild my F10 M5 due to 3 spun rod bearings very very sad.
Hermano, you are installing a new oil cooler instead of using a head gasket leak tester to diagnose oil mixing in the coolant? 🤦♂️
Hey partner how much bearings come in one of those little box
Rhinemetall and ACL are the only ones i use
I hope you adjusted the torque spec on the wrench when you were doing the bearing caps with the extension on... Otherwise, you're probably like 20lb/ft more than needed
Rheinmetall is a good brand bro
true. They are an oem supplier
I have a 2008 bmw 535xi with rod bearing noise. What rod bearings set do you recommend?
I have them linked in the video's description. We also offer ACL bearings which cost slightly more.
KS Kolbenschmidt is the leading OEM Part manufacturer for BMWs
the best car that can make high income for the mechanic :)
I just bought a bmw 335i n54 with 88k with blown turbos for 2200 bucks. Am i going to spend to 10k in this car to fix it?
Because the maintenance is still pricey!!!
Spot on. Maintenance is based off the original MSRP, not the used price that it was purchased for.
I thought the rod bearings are color coded. Or I was told wrong?
lol you thought it would be a good idea to slap on new rod bearings to "fix" the issue, very smart guy. you need a rebuild lmao
The car has been reliable and healthy since.
What’s the trick on an N54????
How many hours does this type of job roughly Take?
How about you send those rod bearings my way 🥺
Nice vid bro
Absolutely brilliant your videos are awesome 🇬🇧👍🇬🇧👍
What's the milage on your car ?
How many miles? Just forgot it.
No lift and this going on with an x-drive FML😥
Is the n55 ewg or pwg
Earlier models like mine are PWG. Later models are EWG.
@@VehicleVirals Ight cool, good to know so ig it’s the same as my 11 335, just different chassis
hello whats the difference between a full set and a normal set
Full set with all the rod bearings you need for one car.
Does it come with new rod bolts ?
@@itsjayygaming1419 Nope. Only the rod bearings.
Black stone oil analysis doesn’t work for n55 but it works for n54 and s65
Why would it work for one but not the other?
@@markburkey6371 bearing materials don’t get detected on n55s because it’s a different material
@@E92Danny they're the same bearings as n54...
Just ordered mine
🙏🏼
Running OEM mains n rods plus adding boost is a mistake made by rookies.
Mostly youtubers tho. Rod bolts dont always work, damage can happen to the the rod. The bolt can stretch in the whole. All of those bearings are not going to be the same size all the way across the shaft. New oil cooler. The oil pump is going to have access metal. 5 x oil change. Most do it wrong on UA-cam 👀 good luck
It’s obvious that you have never touched a N55 in your life
😯I didn’t know Rheinmetal even make car parts, they are a very reputable military contractor, they make Abrams gun and all the WW2 German tank guns and battleship guns
Where is this shop located?
Orlando.
@@VehicleVirals thank you man I just watched your video and I’m very curious about my bmw 335i xdrive N55. It runs well, but I notice that it leaks oil and coolant. Do you happen to know what is causing it from your experience?
Seems like a mission to replace rb
Is an e92 355i for $8000 with a 100k miles a good deal or no?
As long as you have another 8 grand for repairs.
325i aren’t as reliable as e9x 328i. Even the e46 325i had problems. You’re safer with a ‘09-‘11 n52 e9x for similar pricing. And looking out of state can save you some money too. Florida and New York have a ton of good e9x models. Same for the Carolinas
Thats why i try to find the most low mileage one
What is considered cheap for a bmw
Below market value.
I change my oil every 3k miles since I have 100k on the stock Bearings
Just do the bearings it’s not worth the risk, trust me.
@@Hobiee90m3 if only I could afford that rn lol. Plus my car being a late model 2015 435i gc with regular oil changes for its whole life I'm not too worried
That car is going to have owe you both head after you fix it up
I do every 4-5 k km !
Thats what a regular bearing looks like dude lol
This should be called "why u shouldn't buy a cheap bmw when u know nothing about them"
I'm convinced that this is either shock therapy by exposure or you really want to cause as many cardiac arrests as possible.
Also I'm seriously not sure whether I want an F series. I've watched a lot of content on the F both from you and Justin, and I'm simply not convinced it's worth it to switch from my E90 330XD. Especially considering mine had everything done that needed to be done to run another 300000 km's.
forgot u had this car bro
150k miles original engine original bearings drives like new
B58 owners are not worried about any of this 8)
Depending on how cheap this is exactly why you buy a cheap BMW
Neeed more f30 videos
Jessss beautiful BMW guys 🙂💖💖🚗🏁
Who in there right mind would buy a n55. Thats on u bro shoulda got the n54
You must be new to the channel.
No JESS..But JESSS💪🏻