$800 Kawasaki KFX 700 Quad
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
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PLEASE READ THIS! Install the airbox cover and all intake snorkels, they arent designed to be run with open air filters. If theres not enough vacuum in the airbox, the slides wont open properly or at all. I drove myself nuts working on something very similar. Hope this helps
not sure how long she been sitting but would defiantly clean carbs properly too.... but $800, winning
Same here years ago on a 2005 brute Force 750.
Had a Kawasaki 550 street bike with CV carbs. Its stock air box had to be buttoned up or it ran REALLY bad. Not a fan of those carbs.
I know it’s a year later but do you think increasing the amount of air the engine wants to pull by say aftermarket exhaust porting power commander etc would allow you to open the air box up without having problems with the carb? I’ve done a lot of 2 stroke custom tuning but I’ve never even took apart a CV carb
Hi Chris
I'm a bike mechanic by trade in Denmark
First of all, you should clean the small pilot/idle jets in the carbs (They have a TINY hole, so they get clogged very easy, even if the floatbowl looks in perfect condition), after that i would do a sync of the throttlebodies, and a valveclearence adjustment, this is easily done on this engine, no new parts needed, just a few feelergauges.
I'm very confident, that the problem is with the idle/pilot circuit in the carbs, but also doing the valves/TB sync, will most likely make it run like a new machine :-)
I hope this helps, and you are welcome to contact me for more advice if you want to. big fan of your work.
oh!! oh!! while i remember!
The Pri on the fueltap is for priming the fuelsystem, it will bypass the vacum tap (wich only allow fuel to the carbs while the engine is running/producing vacum in the intake port)
It is very important not to drive around on PRI on the tap, because it will allow the engine to fill up with petrol in the crankcase, if the float valves dont close properly. this can cause catastrophic engine failure (bent connection rod etc.)
Also while I'm still writing; I'm not sure if the Kawa carbs has acceleration pumps, for a snappy throttle, this could also be the problem if they are present, but dont work. It will cause the bike to die on snapping the throttle as well as a clogged pilot/idle system would.
Again, hopes this will help :-)
You said carb and throttle body?? It’s one or the other and I’m pretty sure these have carbs.
It doesn’t matter what the fuel is set on if the needle valve seals are good. The crankcase won’t fill up with fuel while it’s running. The only reason the crankcase fills up is when fuel is left on and the needle valve seals are no good. It allows fuel to keep flowing into the cylinder and leaking past the rings into the case.
Are you trolling? For you to say you’re a mechanic is blasphemy. Maybe a “bike” mechanic as in bicycle mechanic.
Valve/throttle body sync?? Try to do some research before commenting all of this fuckery. Hopefully you’re trolling. If not please delete your comment and do a little research. Hopefully no one is trusting you with anything with an engine.
The petcock is a vacuum opened one. The PRI spot is prime. It gets fuel to the engine without engine vacuum opening the petcock. Make sure to switch back to on when running.
If you forget it in PRI you can flood the engine
This^^^
My KZ1000 had that.
Almost one hour of the guy! What a sunday treat!
I love when he makes his videos longer
Pri is for prime, you switch it off prime after its started. Prime position is directly from the tank, where as on position is from the vacuum actuated pump. Switch it to on after it starts.
Pri is only for when the floatbowls and/or lines are empty (after winterstorage etc.)
On normal daily operations, you should never have to use PRI, unless the bike has been sitting in storage for more then a month or so, depending on the climate.
@@runeagnarhjorrh906 correct.
When I worked on motorcycles, I was quick to use an impact screwdriver any time I had a stubborn screw. Those phillips heads were always trying to strip. Impact driver made things go way better.
That and a Dremel, so you can slot them if the center is too far gone for a Phillips to bite. An assortment of metric Allen head screws to replace them with is also useful.
@Daniel Daley people could confuse what you said with a cordless impact driver for eg.
They are called JIS screwdrivers, what Butch S said was a good idea
Yes, an impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. Not an impact gun that’s like a drill. Big difference. One will get stripped rusty screws out, the other will take a good screw and strip it. Lol
@@emersonb5764 thats exactly what i meant!
Oh, good call on the clarification there. You are correct I meant the one you hit with a hammer. Great little tool and not very expensive.
50 Minutes ... My dream came true
Helll ya I agree 50 mins is awesome
Couldn't agree more my friend.
the more the better
To be honest, I didn't look at the video length beforehand. Then I got so into what I was watching that I didn't even realise how much time had past. :D
Check out LUND MX he has a discount code on his page 🤔 I think. Official Yamaha and Kawasaki parts good channel aswel 👌🏻
Check plugs (replace them)
Make sure both cylinders fire
Clean carbs
Tire pressure 5-10 psi
Agreed, plugs, plug wires, and even coils/coil packs.
long reach plugs
I always have luck running Seafoam through the carbs. Even after manually cleaning them, Seafoam still gets to spots I can't.
Tire pressure 5 psi MAX
15:00 I think his brain melted 😆😆
The silvery material in the coolant looks like "Silver Seal", a cooling system sealer used to stop mostly radiator leaks.
Yessir that's what I thought to well stop leake
@@JustinDeckardFamilyMan agreed with yall, That stuff is a life saver when in the ditches but not a permanent fix.
Chris my friend get your self a riding mower to pull your projects around. I pick em up from the scrap yard normally just replace the carb and go. I pull everything around with mine from my boat to my trailer. Save your back, your young.
Glitter stuff in coolant could be stop leak additive
Yeah Could Be
I was thinking the same
but i still would still test it if there is metal or are that leak additive
I agree also replsce the missing headlight while you've got it apart
Wouldn't be surprised if it was actual glitter, that stuff gets everywhere
Head gaskets may have gone. Sparkles look like a stop leak plus they've wired the fan on full time. . Keep up the good work dude. .
You aren't alone in buying junk and regretting the decision. I have been doing it for 20 years and i haven't learned either. I think the old trainer on the movie Seabiscuit explains it best. we do it because we can.
You absolutely need to keep those valves set correctly and get comfortable doing it because the valves tighten up often. The intake valves and seats will eventually need to be done because you run out of adjustment. Worked at a kawi dealership for a few years when these were hot and did about a dozen of these head jobs on the 700 twin. They're also hard on the suspension joints because of the weight, other than that an occasional and these are pretty solid
first a Mustie1 video and now a feature length RBW video i had to pinch myself
Please don't reap apart the quad and put it on other projects just stay as is and just fix it and have some fun with it...😊😊😊😊
That is the point of a project you have to take it apart
I would be PISSED if I didn't have the freedom to test vehicles on my own property. Every vid you do I get more and more upset. I feel for you. Have you blown out the jets?
Sounds propagates through other people's property, who also have the right to peace and quiet.
@@Friendroid as long as it's not absurdly early or past 9-10 o'clock at night, then he should have a right to test on his property.
@@brad2761 Exactly. Funny when people use leaf blowers and chainsaws or have landscapers but bitch when a neighbor makes some noise. My neighbor used to bitch when I loaded my snowmobile up a few times each winter or take a run down the road during a snow storm yet he rattles the neighborhood with his 2nd gen Cummins every single day and ALL summer long at 8pm cleans out his jetski screaming it to flush the cooling system out. People are f'n amazing.
Are you 100% sure the timing was set correctly? Backfiring is a sign if timing being off. Did you check for bent valves when you had the head off?
Yep, and lean mixture will cause it as well.
Almost like no one recognizes you.. I am one of your subs, just so you know.. Never seen you on here before...
yo wassup man
good to see u here!
@@upperroomtoo yep! Clean the carb really well. Even if it looks clean those jets and small passage ways can easily get clogged.
never seaze works real well to keep those handle bar screws from jamming up, also try a rachet strap around the middle of the tire for seating beads, just passing little tricks along to make your life easier, cheers dude keep doing what you do
Metal flake could be the water pump bearing thats gone which will give you that grinding noise too, also the “pri” on the pepcock is for prime, its used when you run out of fuel to prime the fuel system back up once its running reset back to on.
Try cleaning/rebuilding the carbs and the shut off valve. Or throw some Sea Foam in the fuel. Hope this helps.
What a mammoth episode! Looking forward to see how it turns out.
I like it none the less remember Kawasaki the bike that build champions. I just finished Sx last night and been riding a Kawi since my Dunlop elite years.
Try looking at the jets, with that aftermarket exhaust its going to need bigger jets.
11:05 - The source of the knocking noise. 😉
He'll yeah brother.
Exactly, peaces of weights lol
yep
Try it with the top on the air box top on that run lean with the top off and back fire through the carbs
Yes, i discovered that the slides wont lift with all the snorkels and lid in place
those quads are finicky and need the air box lid on too. I saw you were testing it with it off.
Yes I noticed that to👍
thats what i was thinkin or maybe it needs to be rejetted ..looks like after market pipes
You definitely need to fix that up an keep it as a 4wheeler.very nice 👌
i was hoping he was gonna rip it apart and make something ridiculous.
4:50 the petcock is actuated by vacuum. But if the Fuel lines are empty, it takes a long time to get the fuel everywhere just from the engines vacuum by cranking it. So there is the "PRI" for priming, and its lets the fuel straight trough
Yes and never leave it in PRI. Will fill up the cylinders with gas (and crank case). Learned that the hard way.
@@PerWiklund234 that will only happen if you have issues with your carb floats, if your carbs are working correctly then leaving it in PRI shouldnt be an issue.
@@tannermorrison7563 Yes true. But over a month or so it doesn’t have to be a big leak to cause problems.
1:55 that's probably some sort of radiator stop leak
Just a guess, as we are all doing, but a lot of ppl throw filters and exhaust on without properly tuning the carbs. The hanging idle and quick dying sounds like a pilot and needle issue. After you get it up and running hard, check the plugs and adjust the main. I’d say pull the needles up 2 clips and up the pilot size. (Also make sure idle screw and circuit are clear) nice work Chris
i could be wrong but have u trying puting the air box lid back on my 400ex pretty much acks like that without its lid i know with the ex you need the air box unless u rejet it
100% correct they like doing the backfire thing without the airboxlid on,especially with the k&n filter fitted.It gets to much air put the lid on and let her rip
To be honest it was a good deal because when its running right you'll love it. I had one and lost it in a home fire. My shed burned down and all was lost and man I miss that bike. It brought me many days of fun and helped free my mind from the things I was going through at the time. So when its right promise you'll love the bike.
This quad was a great deal. You get content and a quad.
I think it's worth it fixing the quad. Can't wait for part 2. Make sure you have the correct air pressure in the new tires if not there gonna wear out.
I had one, was heavy heavy heavy, plus it took a lot of aftermarket parts to keep it cool. Loved to overheat.
One way I narrow down fueling issues is adding about a half a can of sea foam to about a gallon of gas. With its lower vapor point it sticks around in the cylinder a bit after ignition and kind of averages out the fuel input since it doesnt burn off as quick. If you have a jetting or carb issue and it runs better with seafoam, it narrows it down to that. If it does not run better, then next place to look timing or valves. With the timing that far off for so long, some carbon buildup may have formed on the valves which is maybe why they felt tight, but once that burns off, the could be loose again. But try the seafoam first, then if needed, giv'r an italian tune-up before checking the valves again.
Clean the carbs and make sure you put the gas petcock on run after it starts not on pri which stands for prime
When you have to run the engine on choke that means the idle circuit is clogged . This is a very common problem with small engines .
PRI is prime! So you use it then turn it to on or res.
The backfire can be the aftermarket mufflers. Re jet it maybe?
I had the same problem, and I just clean up really good the all "gasoline system" cuz the kfx didn't work for same time, and the gasoline was to old and it worked!! It's an amazing machine. Don't give up!!
Please do more restoration videos !!
They are far more enjoyable and educational !!!!
Keep up the unreal work tho
I really enjoyed this video, it was something different. Would like to see more.
Dennis Kirk is where I've been ordering my ATV and snowmobile parts for a while now. They should have a CVT driver for you. Just need the springs and weights for it.
I have been using them since 87. I loved when the new catalog came out every year before internet
I bought the same ATV New. I owned it for 5 years . Never had know trouble with it . I sold it to my sister same as me she never had know trouble with it. She had it for like 3 years. She didn't ride it as much as I did. It always run like new. She sold it for $3000. 00 about a 2 year ago. It was a strong running ATV. The sound your hearing in the CTV vent sounds like a broken clutch weight . And that cause the marks on the ctv where the belt rides.
I really do love that the video is longer, but idk what the statistics of your videos are
If it’s bogging down when blipping throttle it could be too lean. Think you have like a K&N air filter on it which sometimes you need to up jet.
I would remove carbs a and clean them, make sure mixture screws are set correctly (you have the manual) flush fuel tank and lines, clean and oil air filter and put the lid back on the airbox (will run leaner if removed) and give it a try.
Good job replacing the cam chains, have guts have to say and not afraid to get stuck in!👍🏻
Lol you tightening it back down after celebrating getting it off had me dieing @12:10 ish lol
I got a kick out of this video. I just rebuilt a 1989 shaft drive yfm350erw on my channel. I've been subbed to your channel for over a year now. It was great to see you take on an ATV.
Dude you should do a rebuild, those things are so fast.
A hack from a technician, always break bolts loose when in aluminum by tightening them first. You when torqueing a bolt or screw in aluminum will hear a separation sound, then loosen. It always works for me.
É fantástico seu trabalho cara!!
abraço aqui do Brasil!
Haha that’s great. I was into a KFX700 didn’t run for $100 or so, ended up doing a quick valve adjustment and had it running in less then a hour of getting it home!
I would say still well worth it!!!
Love the blue shop towel curtain!
Don't over inflate the new tires, it will cause excessive wear
That Quad was 100 percent worth it for you because you are gaining knowledge and experience as well as making content for your channel and when you are done with it you will have a solid ATV for less than $2,000.00. I call that a win win in my book. My advice to get it running better is to drain that garbage fuel out again and replace it with NON ethanol fuel and take it for a ride and it will clean out the slime left on everything from the ethanol. If you intend to leave ANY gasoline powered equipment sit for more than 30 days you have to treat the fuel so that it doesn't do that in the future if you HAVE to run the trash with e in it.
Good video but I’ve been trying to reach you in regards to your vehicles extended warranty.
"The more I work on this more the problems I find..." And more the smile put on our viewers' faces lol
I mean I'm sorry this will be a nightmare for you but it'll make an excellent content to watch, we can learn a lot from watching you work on it 😛
Work it man work it
Been using comet clutches on snowmobiles since the mid 70s . They are some of the best you can buy. And it’s still a good deal
"I can't get this stinkin thing to go in the hole"
as far as learning your lesson fella im 64 and still doing it the knowledge you have is hard earned and expensive great vid
If you put a small piece of hose on your propane torch you can just use the gas with out igniting it for a more precise vacuum leak detection
Love the longer vids man BUT I can't help but burst out laughing when you say OOOOOOOOOOOOOKKKKKKKKKAY!!!!
My pop had one, it’s so fun....the only quad where 22’s DONT look too big. 800 is truly a steal
Rule of thumb, "When working on a motorcycle, use an impact screwdriver too avoid stripping out the screws". Peace!
I highly suggest taking the carbs off and going through them. Popping, backfiring and getting slightly better then more it works, in conjunction with the choke helping it to run right are huge indicators that it's running lean. Given it's sat for a while with old fuel in it also lends to the idea that the carbs are partially blocked or caked up.
been watching your channel, you seem like a really good dude. best of luck with everything
Definitely worth it. Clean the carb, put it back together and sell it for an easy profit. Loved the long episode!
A great thing to do with your control clamp screws, is install Helicoil kits with new hardware on anything that "clamps". A lot of the controls are made with soft/brittle alloys rich in zinc. -A terrible thing to add into the casting alloy of control set parts as a cost saving measure. Helicoils are your friend for a few reasons.
Pri = Primary Tank
RES= Reserve Tank
The handle bar looks fine save yourself some money and finish it off. You're not gonna race it so leave it alone. Those are some nice tires brand name and model please? Choke on = needs fuel probably a dirty jet or needle and seat.
Wrong. PRI is prime. It’s a vacuum petcock and needs engine vacuum to open it. The prime function allows fuel to flow without the engine running to prime the fuel system. There should be a run, reserve and prime position.
@@adamr9215 cool didn't know that
@@kyleteal5888 They used to be fairly common on carbureted street bikes. They work good when riding an old bike and you forget to turn the fuel off when you stop, it won’t let a leaky carb drain your tank.
The main thing with the carbs that gets clogged is the little pilot jet that is used for idle... That's why it should still run fine when you ride it hard, but it will die easy at idle. Its the smaller jet that is long and has holes all in it like a machine gun shroud. Bad gas will clog it quick if it was sitting.
Checklist stuff:
New spark plugs gapped.
check the supply and grounds to the coils.
check the plug wires for cracks. Does spraying the plug wires with water make it miss?
Clean the carbs out real good.
check the fuel filters
check the TIMING. That loose stator wheel has me concerned about that.
Flush out the ENTIRE fuel system, dry it out, and put VERY fresh gas in it. Don't throw any more parts at it until you do all of this.
I feel your pain brother. I've been working this 2007 Honda Foreman 4x4. This ATV is a nightmare. I started going in sequence to make sure the ATV will roll or not. Battery, solenoid, starter, Carb, clean fuel tank, fuel sender, petcock, meter assembly, rear brakes with new cables, I'm probably forgetting a few things, but total cost right now is over 900 and it still doesn't go into gear. I've got a 13 code on the meter stating that the TPS is faulty even though it's brand new coming with the carb.
Advice for next tire mounting on aluminum rims. Go to Walmart a get 3m spray glue for the bead. Helps tire slip on and seal bead
Brake clean can fix vacuum leaks. It’ll suck the brake clean in and clean the junk causing a leak. As long as the line is split open. Sounds like it needs a little air/fuel tuning.
“I can’t get this thing to go in the stinking hole”
THATS WHAT HE SAID
😂😂
Glad I just found your channel dude. Nice content love a fix her up video 👊👊
You'll get it there. Looks like your 90% now. Just remember to take a break before you start breaking things, that is what I have to do. 😁 As my age goes up my patients is going down. LOL!
Just a tip for ya. Whenever mounting a tire not on a machine or in a cage Always set the bead with the tire in the vertical position. If something ever goes wrong and the back side bead pops or blows off and sends that rim into a low earth orbit at least your face won't be in the way. I had this happen to me when I was a lot younger trying to mount a set of tires on my Dakota rims. Well the back side blew off and the tires went straight up hit a 25 ft ceiling breaking both my hands before coming to rest on a hood of a Pepsi truck.
Had the same bike, ah the memories
Check the compression. Tight valve lash, stretched timing chain. Could be in the valve train. Sticky, bent valve? Quick compression check would rule that in or out.
A friend of mine had one of these quads, I would say it needs the 12 hole mod to the airbox lid. carbs cleaned, needs rejected or atleast check to see if its been jetted for the exhaust system thats on it. Also did you check the valve lash when you had it apart?
I really hope this works out for you. I've ridden the KFX 700. They are very fun quads.
Check for valve adjustment. it’s often over looked but will cause backfiring back through loose intake valves when they sopposed to be shut tight.
Those Kawasaki Twins (650, 700, 750, etc) are notoriously cold blooded. I've owned 3 at one time or another. Let them get good and warm before attempting to troubleshoot anything. And also change the rear differential fluid. It also lubricated the rear brake, because its an internal wet brake. And use the Kawasaki specified stuff.
When tuned up, and running properly, those are a blast to ride.
And yes, the V-Force 700 is a bit of an odd duck.
You need to have the air box lid on. That's most of the issue. These quads never really run the best just sitting still. I just went through this with my brute force. When you clean the carb. Take out the piece that the main jet screws into. It has little holes in it that need cleaned out.
Lot of rambling in this one. Deep breaths Chris, you'll get it sorted out. Got faith in you!!!🤙
I have a kfx700 you might think it only has double the power than a 450 but it makes 10 times the amount of power and torque. I ran it for 2 years on low oil and the engine is fine very reliable motorbike
The exhaust as well as the air filter are aftermarket ... one could assume the jetting is incorrect and needing an adjustment to the mixture screw as well .... factory is usually really lean once access is gained to the mixture screws start at 2 turns out from lightly seated and adjust from there
You can try clean the needles in te carburators, can change those. I have the same problem in my motor and that's the problem i found, an other problem you can try to fix is the intake mainfold.
The problem with the intake manifold is if the motor Suck air.
When ever I have a problem, kiss, fuel, spark, compression, cheapest fix possible can be the way, compression test, unhook all main motor electrical connector and spray n drench them in some electrics cleaner with battery disconnected of course. Flush all bad fuel and new fuel filters. Then checkout your findings. Good luck and enjoy the hunt for the fix!
Clean the jets with a torch tip cleaner. Run one of the wires through the center hole. Sometimes when gas turns to varnish' its clear. You can hold it up to the light and it looks clean but there will be a little dried varnish plug on the inside.
My brute force was backfiring. Clean the carbs really good and make sure the fuel mixture is 2 1/2 turns. But the problem I was having is the fuel pump was not feeding enough fuel to the carbs. Once I replaced the fuel pump the bike runs perfect.
Chris the carbs are need cleaning . But run some seafoam through the fuel system . Hopefully that will resolve the issue since it is running and will clean the valves also.
Pull the carbs and give them a thorough, full, cleaning. Soak them in Berryman B12 overnight then blow them out. Check the jets and make sure they are clean. You may also want to make sure the carb's are properly in sync. Make sure when you are testing to reassemble the entire airbox. That miss you are describing sounds like the carbs arent sync'ed properly and its often overlooked.
Chris, when you’re trying to stop the engine from turning, stick some rope down the spark plug hole. When the piston comes up, it’ll compress the rope against the head, resisting rotation. About the running, I’m thinking the idle circuit in the carb is clogged, so it’ll only run at high speed, or with choke on.
I wouldn't do your rope trick.
The old saying goes, "You only get what you pay for " , you buy cheap you should expect some problems, but you have the talent to fix, repair or swap out, the damaged and warn parts, then at least you know it's good to go, if on the other hand you pay more you canstill end up with a "Pig". There are no guarantees when you buy second hand or pre loved. Love your videos. cheers buddy and sta y safe.