W126 Mercedes 300SD - Radiator Replacement
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2021
- #impalamansgarage1
In this video we replace the radiator in our 300SD since it began leaking
along the top tank seam. We also replaced the engine bay stickers
with some OEM replacements.
Parts:
Mercedes-Benz Radiator - Behr Hella Service CR 258 000S
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...
Engine bay stickers
www.ebay.com/itm/154309583433 - Авто та транспорт
I always enjoy working on my merc. Im glad to see others do as well
Thank you for this video I bought a parts car for my build. More power😊
Successfully replaced my 300sd's radiator. Thank you again.🎉
Always proffesional 😎
Thanks--very informative video! I have an '84 500SEL.
I need a 15” aluminum wheel off a 500 mercedes
Same year as my 300sd !
I shelled out two R4 ac compressors, the Japanese ac compressor was only around $300 , the R4 is around the same price!
Nice job. Pierre approved 👍
Always nice to see the differences between the generations and engines. On the OM603 the oil cooler is just behind the front bumper down low. This allowed for a larger radiator within the cowl support.
Th PO replaced the original radiator with a full aluminum replacement with an extra core run. In this configuration you HAVE to use the factory fan bolt tool as the clearance is very reduced. The total aluminum radiator eliminates the plastic failure at the radiator entrance. Might not be available for the OM617 but it's worth a look
Great tip. Thank you!
Thanks for this... Will be replacing the radiator on my '83 300SD within the next couple weeks!
Be care when reattching the transmission fluid lines to the radiator. Place a wrench on the radiator side of the fitting while tightening the flare nut on the line. This will prevent putting too much stress on the radiator. I forgot to do this in the video.
@@ImpalamansGarage Do you think you twisted the radiator side at all or did you get away with it? Sounds like something that would happen to me. 😅
@@JPGtampa I think I got away with it. LOL... I was pretty gentle. Just wasn't thinking.
@@ImpalamansGarage Roger that 🙂
I wonder if they even specify a torque setting for that. Any issues with air in the trans or did it burp itself?
@@JPGtampa Service manual says 15 to 20 nm of torque on those trans lines. I suppose you could put a crows foot on a torque wrench if you wanted. When it comes to pressure lines like that I just snug them up. If they leak I go a little tighter. Those connections are fragile.
I replaced the rad in my 85 300d and I don't remember it having an oil cooler. I definitely did not remove it if it did have one.
Was that original rad a Beher? Mine was and they wanted $300 for a new one and that was almost 20 years ago. I bought the less than $200 German made one. I'm cheap!
It solved the problem of the thermostats constantly freezing up on me.
Looks like you made a good job of it but I'm still waiting for the injector swap. Lol
Yes the original was a Behr.
where did you get the "procedure" you mentioned? thank you
@kevinmulherin5932 - Send me an email.
But the ac works MUCH better and freezes me out of the car on the hottest days.
Yeah the AC in this thing is ridiculous. Can hang meat in the car. lol
Get rid of that junky R4 GM compressor! I converted mine to a Japanese system, you have to change all the hoses and condenser. The whole job cost me around $1200 because my brother in law helped me .
This one has been converted to R134a. No issues with the R4. Folks have a love/hate relationship with the R4. lol
I enjoy your videos but I had to cringe when you directly removed and installed transmission cooling hoses on the plastic radiator without providing counter support on the fastener attached to the plastic radiator. An open end or adjustable wrench applied to the radiator's installed fitting can offset the torque your wrench supplies. Expensive tragedies can occur to plastic radiators by subjecting them to such stresses and protect the radiator. Also in a similar Mercedes vein what you did is similar to removing the oil line on the guage on W123 and R107 models (cars with oil lines to the guage) without providing counter support. This can cause a non leaking guage to become a leaker and leave you with oil on your leg. These delicate parts need to be protected to avoid needless damage and expensive repair. Please edit the otherwise informative and entertaining video so others are not encouraged follow your flawed removal and install procedure. I am a subscriber and please keep up the good work. As others comment your enthusiam and determination are contagious. Your previous door panel clip repair enabled me to fix mine (thus far)! I often muse if you are a JB Weld
principal or shareholder.
Yeah you're right. I forgot to support the fitting on the radiator. However I used very little torque on those fittings. So maybe we won't have an issue. We'll see.