that is a PSS shaft seal if you need to get info on it. There are 2 set screws in each hole, the bottom one to lock to the shaft and the top one to lock the first one in place. There are 2 o-rings inside the ss rotor that seal it to the shaft so probably not a good idea to use heat on it. My previous boat was the 31' version of yours. Let me know if I can help.
That's great to know and the two set screws makes sense. I didn't know the model or brand so I appreciate it and I'll do some Googling and see what others have done to fix them
They make a product called NO-OX-ID. It is a grease like substance used on battery terminal connections. If you apply a light coating on both surfaces of a cleaned connection you will never have corrosion issues again. Make sure to pre clean connections first using baking soda and water then wipe clean before applying.
Right where you're working I see some rusty bolts sticking out. A wee shot of penetrating oil whenever you think of it will make them moveable whenever the need arises. Salt water is merciless on nuts and bolts. brushing some marine grease on that stuff is helpful too. Torque bits do not work on allen key screws, use allen keys. Nice that you have some room to work in there. Solar didn't exist for me, I had a little wind driven generator. Good video. Stay safe, Pax .
Wow that was a busy few days! All those projects to make your travel a safe one when you get going! Guess you will be heading home soon! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family! 🎉
Very nice looking power inverter! Getting the boat set up really good! Wishing you a very merry Christmas 🎄 to you and your family Damon ! Stay safe, 👋
What your doing is super cool. My twin 11 year old boys love to watch your adventures. BTW. I graduated from Marshfield High School in 1978 with Cathy Rust. Good luck and Best Christmas wishes.
On my Hunter I had the old fashion packing glad stuffing box around the prop shaft. Access was great, just 2 inches below a floor board in the aft cabin. That was good because I was always adjusting it. On my current Whitby, an older boat, the access is terrible. It's under the shower floor and the shower door has to be unbolted and taken off to take the heavy marble floor up. The floor also needs to be caulked into place. Good thing it is dripless like yours, but I am always afraid it's going to fail on me offshore. Just a little tap on it and it gets out of alignment and starts gushing water. Easy to realign it but I don't know the internals of the dripless so not sure if part failure is common. I much prefer the setup on my Hunter with a plain stuffing box.
Remember, it's not about the task at hand as much as it's about the adventure. Have you heard of SV Seeker? Doug has a 3D printer on his boat, He really shows the value of having a 3d printer and built his boat from the ground up not with a 3d printer. lol
I hadn't but just perused his website and Doug's a pretty impressive guy. That's quite the boat he has and looks like he's made some pretty good parts with his 3d printer too
I got the same drippless shaft seal on my Centurion 47 but without the water cooling hose because I’m only running a 62HP Perkins on a slow speed sailboat so I have no idea why yours has the unnecessary water cooling. They sell a rebuild kit with a new bellows and set screws, but you need to be out of the water to install the new bellows which they recommend changing every 6 years. If it starts leaking you can hit it with a hammer to compress the bellows and this should stop the leak, also you could use hose clamps on the shaft to prevent the stainless rotor from sliding forward if the set screws slip. You could just drill a hole through the rotor and into your shaft, thread it and use a machine bolt or set screw to keep it in place and you should be good to go. Look well into thyself; there is a source of strength which will always spring up if thou wilt always look. - Marcus Aurelius
I'm a fan of the hose clamp idea for extra peace of mind and I imagine come next fall I will be about due for a haul out and can go ahead and get the rebuild kit then to be sure it's solid and then also know the age of the parts for the future
@@damonrust I’m hauled out now and just installed the rebuild kit a couple weeks ago. It comes with 4 set screws, locktight, two O rings for the stainless rotor and a new bellows. I think it cost under 200. Installation is easy. I was going to change the bellows in the water by stuffing up the shaft from outside with plastic bags and just accept the 50 or so gallons I’d probably take on but the old one lasted long beyond its expiration date so I’m holding onto it as a spare.
Sounds like a good project to tackle especially considering how important that part of the boat is. I appreciate the information on what style this is. I was having a hard time finding it online before hand
Brilliant to add a 3D Printer to a boat’s tools. I’ve never considered learning it but you’re making me a believer. Any recommendations for getting started and which one did you get and why? Fantastic content! (Upgraded my dinghy to the same Mantus today.)
So far it has been a great tool to have around. Id recommend the Bambu Labs A1 Mini, the same one I have, as it's only $180 and surprisingly well made even for people new to printing. The hard part is learning to 3d model but you could always talk Scott into teaching you one evening
Yow Buddy, Awesome progress.. Happy to see ypu getting the jobs done.. Quick question, what 3d printer di you get? Im looking for one for a while but dont know what to get..
Thanks Maurice! I got the Bambu Labs A1 Mini and so far would highly recommend it. It's on the smaller side but I am blown away by the ease of use and all of the features packed into it
You're doing great!! Loving all the updates!! Cheers, Cap!
Thanks Terry!
"If the wind is just right you can sail away and find tranquility" -Christopher Cross ⛵
A great song
Great video update touched on a lot of things. You are so inspiring and smart loving your journey it brightens my day 😊
Thanks Mark!
your making your dreams come true keep it up enjoy life
Another great video !
~If your batteries are lead-acid, mounting the inverter so close (and especially above) the batteries is not recommended.
😎
That's good to know I'll do some research on why that is
@@damonrustMainly because of the gasses they emit when charging and discharging.
Best of luck from Utah!
Thanks!
Funny i have the same boat as you in cali, ya click click is always battery or cables
that is a PSS shaft seal if you need to get info on it. There are 2 set screws in each hole, the bottom one to lock to the shaft and the top one to lock the first one in place. There are 2 o-rings inside the ss rotor that seal it to the shaft so probably not a good idea to use heat on it. My previous boat was the 31' version of yours. Let me know if I can help.
That's great to know and the two set screws makes sense. I didn't know the model or brand so I appreciate it and I'll do some Googling and see what others have done to fix them
Enjoy the festive season, and be safe
Thanks
They make a product called NO-OX-ID. It is a grease like substance used on battery terminal connections. If you apply a light coating on both surfaces of a cleaned connection you will never have corrosion issues again. Make sure to pre clean connections first using baking soda and water then wipe clean before applying.
Great idea, I hadn't heard of that but added some to my Amazon list for my next order
Right where you're working I see some rusty bolts sticking out. A wee shot of penetrating oil whenever you think of it will make them moveable whenever the need arises. Salt water is merciless on nuts and bolts. brushing some marine grease on that stuff is helpful too. Torque bits do not work on allen key screws, use allen keys. Nice that you have some room to work in there. Solar didn't exist for me, I had a little wind driven generator. Good video. Stay safe, Pax .
Good idea, that leak definitely caused a bit more rust down there that I need to tackle
Wow that was a busy few days! All those projects to make your travel a safe one when you get going! Guess you will be heading home soon! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family! 🎉
Thank you! Happy holidays to you as well
⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵
Ez outs
Drill screw, hammer ez out with gentle tap while slowly turning ccw, then when it bites vice grip and continue ccw
Good advice
Very nice looking power inverter! Getting the boat set up really good! Wishing you a very merry Christmas 🎄 to you and your family Damon ! Stay safe, 👋
Thanks Luke! Merry Christmas to you as well
What your doing is super cool. My twin 11 year old boys love to watch your adventures. BTW. I graduated from Marshfield High School in 1978 with Cathy Rust. Good luck and Best Christmas wishes.
No kidding! Aunt Cathy is a pretty great lady. Glad to hear the whole family is enjoying
Another great video Be safe
Thanks Sunny
On my Hunter I had the old fashion packing glad stuffing box around the prop shaft. Access was great, just 2 inches below a floor board in the aft cabin. That was good because I was always adjusting it.
On my current Whitby, an older boat, the access is terrible. It's under the shower floor and the shower door has to be unbolted and taken off to take the heavy marble floor up. The floor also needs to be caulked into place. Good thing it is dripless like yours, but I am always afraid it's going to fail on me offshore. Just a little tap on it and it gets out of alignment and starts gushing water. Easy to realign it but I don't know the internals of the dripless so not sure if part failure is common.
I much prefer the setup on my Hunter with a plain stuffing box.
Heads up. A jute stuffing box is good for emergencies, but it never stops leaking = a salty wet boat.
@@stanleybest8833 Got a link? I couldn't find it.
That's a poor location for shaft access, ever since my dripless started taking on water it's been a concern in the back of my mind
As I always say ... If it isn't one thing, it's that and another. I'll be interested to hear how the caribiners on the fenders work
Very true and I'll be sure to give and update as I try the carabiner fender combo out
FYI, if you have a newer cellphone you can get an E-sim and there are many companies that you can get them from for cheap
I'll have to take a look at that and what it's cost for the Bahamas
Remember, it's not about the task at hand as much as it's about the adventure. Have you heard of SV Seeker? Doug has a 3D printer on his boat, He really shows the value of having a 3d printer and built his boat from the ground up not with a 3d printer. lol
I hadn't but just perused his website and Doug's a pretty impressive guy. That's quite the boat he has and looks like he's made some pretty good parts with his 3d printer too
I got the same drippless shaft seal on my Centurion 47 but without the water cooling hose because I’m only running a 62HP Perkins on a slow speed sailboat so I have no idea why yours has the unnecessary water cooling. They sell a rebuild kit with a new bellows and set screws, but you need to be out of the water to install the new bellows which they recommend changing every 6 years. If it starts leaking you can hit it with a hammer to compress the bellows and this should stop the leak, also you could use hose clamps on the shaft to prevent the stainless rotor from sliding forward if the set screws slip. You could just drill a hole through the rotor and into your shaft, thread it and use a machine bolt or set screw to keep it in place and you should be good to go.
Look well into thyself; there is a source of strength which will always spring up if thou wilt always look.
- Marcus Aurelius
I'm a fan of the hose clamp idea for extra peace of mind and I imagine come next fall I will be about due for a haul out and can go ahead and get the rebuild kit then to be sure it's solid and then also know the age of the parts for the future
@@damonrust I’m hauled out now and just installed the rebuild kit a couple weeks ago. It comes with 4 set screws, locktight, two O rings for the stainless rotor and a new bellows. I think it cost under 200. Installation is easy. I was going to change the bellows in the water by stuffing up the shaft from outside with plastic bags and just accept the 50 or so gallons I’d probably take on but the old one lasted long beyond its expiration date so I’m holding onto it as a spare.
Sounds like a good project to tackle especially considering how important that part of the boat is. I appreciate the information on what style this is. I was having a hard time finding it online before hand
ASA is a better material to use for that than Petg for that purpose and it'll work in the bambu.
I leaned towards PETG as I've heard it's easier to print and I've got experience with it but I'll have to do a little research on ASA
Ive always wondered why more sailors don't keep 3d printers
Agreed, it's a tough environment for a printer but so far it's been very handy to have
Thanks for the vid. When do you think you'll be leaving the States for the Bahamas?
Planning to head out around the middle of January. weather dependant
Brilliant to add a 3D Printer to a boat’s tools. I’ve never considered learning it but you’re making me a believer. Any recommendations for getting started and which one did you get and why? Fantastic content! (Upgraded my dinghy to the same Mantus today.)
So far it has been a great tool to have around. Id recommend the Bambu Labs A1 Mini, the same one I have, as it's only $180 and surprisingly well made even for people new to printing. The hard part is learning to 3d model but you could always talk Scott into teaching you one evening
Yow Buddy, Awesome progress.. Happy to see ypu getting the jobs done.. Quick question, what 3d printer di you get? Im looking for one for a while but dont know what to get..
Thanks Maurice! I got the Bambu Labs A1 Mini and so far would highly recommend it. It's on the smaller side but I am blown away by the ease of use and all of the features packed into it
So.... what ever happened with the shaft seal? Did I miss something?
Kind of left on a cliffhanger by accident. Only got the one set screw in but still trying to get the other hole trapped or something
#Elon