I carried one of these sharpeners for years. It is a good investment, easy to carry and extremely effective at putting a edge on your knife and quickly. Always use the stone section first, then follow up with the ceramic stick end at the tip of the sharpener.
You’ll find it easier to use and to maintain a consistent angle if you rest the tip of the stone on a flat surface and rest your hand on the same surface. You can establish an angle by starting with the back of the blade resting against the plastic where the stone begins and holding that angle through each stroke. As others have said, stropping the edge after using the sharpener will polish the burr off, making a sharper edge that will last longer. I glued a thin strip of leather to my Vic sharpener. Even without polishing compound, it works great.
Thanks for the tip - that makes sense. I couldn't find some suitable leather to use - so I have just order a cheap strop and a couple of stropping compounds. I'll have a practice on some kitchen knives and record another video in a couple of weeks.
Get an old bit of leather belt and once you have finished sharping the knife. Run it along the leather to take off any burr and it will be smooth at cutting. From an X butcher.
If you want your knives razor sharp - use this type of sharpener and then a leather strop with some stopping compound. I have another video about this.
I have a few of those sharpeners, very handy for sharpening away from home. One tip is when using the stone if can bd easier to put the end of the stone on a work surface and angle the sharpener at 20 degrees then run the blade against it straight down. It’s a bit easier to keep the angle constant that way.
I believe you’ll find your edge would be much better using a leather strop. I use two different strops one with green compound and one with like a diamond paste. The other thing I use is a ceramic rod. I highly recommend getting all three it will take you to a level you’ve never seen. The leather can be old belts the wax is very cheap. In America Smokey mountain has a giant ceramic rod for $5.00. You can also use coffee cup upside down.
I took this and an opinel when i backpacked thru europe a few years ago, served me extrenely well. I skip the pull thru as it has a tendency to rip out the edge. As a protip, if you mark the edge bevel with a sharpie, you can quickly assess if youre matching the angle with the stone
Thanks for taking three time to comment I have leant so much over the last few months. I really like the sharpener and do use the marker tip. I also have learnt to strop as well and tend to do that more than sharpening if the edge is dull and undamaged. It gives a sharper edge and removes less metal. I have tried an Opinel (see my videos) but don't like it that much. I prefer a good Victorinox such as the Bantam.
If you plan on sticking with a pull through sharpener I WOULD RECOMMEND getting a leather strop and some polishing conpound for using after your sharpener. If you sharpen then strop the blade, it will be much much sharper.. also not sure if you know because you said your new to sharpening but Re-profiling will make your knife sharper. Say it was sharpened at 25° per side originally, if it was re profiled at 20°, 18°, or any angle that is more acute than the original angle the knife will be sharper.
@MB_EDC that's awesome man for real and it does make a big difference. I was thinking I'm not great at sharpening but I am I just needed to strop after to make my edge even better
I use this sharpener very often. (Well, probably an older version of it, because my stone is not blue but gray.) I use it on my pocket knives when I don't have much time, and I maintain my mother's kitchen knives with this. That stone is really great. Aggressive enough so that it doesn't take forever to remove some material, but fine enough to provide a very sharp and clean edge. On point, in my opinion. But: I hate the pull-through part. Unless the bevel's angle *perfectly* matches the pull-through angle (which is almost impossible), I believe that it just creates a micro bevel on the edge. (As far as I can see, that's what happened on your Spyderco, and probably on the others as well.) This is OK for a quick touch-up between proper sharpenings, but I don't think it's optimal. I tried a few times, hated it and I never use it. The stone alone is great for a sharp edge, and if you happen to have a strop, you can get it crazy sharp.
@@MB_EDC A strop can take your edge to the next level, for sure. Until then, I suggest to practice sharpening with the rod of the dual sharpener. I didn't have great results with it in the beginning, but the more muscle memory and more experience with the different steels I built, the better results I got. Just make sure to hold the same angle, then it should be OK :) What also helped me learning was coloring the edge with a marker. this way I could see if my angle was too high, too low or just right.
That looks fine for taking into the field. For home use I have a series of wet stones in various grades. You can buy the Chinese ones for just a few bucks each and they do a good job. I prefer to transition to a fine diamond hone after the 3000 grit stone. Fine stones take too long to shape a profile, and course stones make an edge that doesn't don't hone very well (it's ragged). I don't like the scraper type sharpeners because they can remove too much metal, become less accurate with time or abuse, and they lock you into a profile that is probably better suited to kitchen or utility knifes. It is the low skill approach though, and maybe where most people start. I also prefer a 15° profile. It makes a much sharper edge for most knife steels, and doesn't compromise too much on durability. This comes down to the steel and personal preference though - do you want it to be really sharp, or do you want to last? Good knife steel will normally last OK with a 15° profile, but if you use your camping blade for spitting wood (hitting the spine of the blade to run it down the branch) or other rough tasks (liking cutting up a few dozen cardboard boxes) maybe 20° would the sharpest you want to go. You can buy or make guides to hold the stones at the correct angle, and in fact the Chinese stones are designed to be used in such a machine. My diamond hone cost more than all the Chinese stones. There are more expensive options of course, but this stuff is just fine and doesn't take up much room or weight in the pack if I decided to take some of them with me. If I wanted something that fit in a pocket or small pouch I would take a small oil stone and the diamond hone. The game changer for me was really the fine diamond hone. It can finish an edge that you can shave hair with. Leather strops are probably good too (with diamond paste) but I'd only go there if I wanted to sharpen a cut throat razor or scalpel blades. The diamond hones don't wear out, but they do take a short while to lose their rough edge and wear in. Knife sharpening is one of those things, if you ask ten people you'll get ten different methods. The wet stone method with various grades is what professional knife sharpeners use on the best blades though. I'm not at their level, but I can profile and sharpen a knife pretty quickly no matter what condition it is in. ETA: for the sharpening stones that are designed to fit into the tool search for ADAEE sharpening stones and shop around. They don't cost very much as they are synthetic. Remember they are water stones, not dry or oil.
Wow! Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed comment. I am learning so much from the comments people leave. I think that I will progress to full sized sharpening stones and the diamond ones have been y recommended a couple of times now. I have bought another small sharpener the Fallniven DC3 and the Lansky Puck for axes and lawn mower blades. I have started stripping too, which is great for light use knives that have just lost their edge a little. I am still a beginner at this and learning all the time. I really just wanted to encourage people to have a go.
Think about it: if you're using a V-shaped sharpener, which obviously has a fixed angle, and if that is not the angle your knife's blade was originally sharpened at, you're doing exactly what you're trying not to do - reprofiling the blade. Also, the V-shaped part of the sharpener is only meant for removing the burr (if any) before sharpening on the stone part, because it takes way too much material off the blade, that's why it was so loud.
@@MB_EDC I don’t question that it is good as a field tool; when it comes to being on the go, handy trumps easy every time. But for general home sharpening, I’ll take my Lansky set every time.
@@mencken8 as I get more practised I can see the limitations of this sharpener and the importance of stropping. As I as more knives to my collection I can see the need for a bench top sharpener. I do have a Lansky Puck for sharpening my hand axe and will have a video on that shortly.
The music was NOT really annoying but I did not have earphones on. The content, which was really the most important stuff, was good. And I bought one recently (less than a month ago) the stone was still gray.
Thanks for the comment about the music. I'll try a few videos with/without. I am still learning here.... It may be my lights that make it look blue - in normal light it looks grey with a slight blue tinge.
I think the worksharp precision adjust sharpening system is far and away the best value for the fixed angle set up you get at around 60$ USD. Other similar systems are either, too expensive, or not as precise ( KME and Lansky sharpeners, respectively). If you really want a fine, sharp edge, then a worksharp is the cheapest, and fastest way to get it. P.S. it is also capable of achieving a mirror polish on the edge of any knife, if you know how
Hi Angel. Thanks for the tip. Of course you are right! I will work up to that sort of system when I have enough knives to sharpen. And...so far I am getting some decent results just with the victorinox.
Good video. I believe the reason for it being 'louder' on the Boker is because of the blade material. The Boker had a higher Carbon content so yes it is having to work harder then the relatively softer Stainless Steel of the Grasshopper or Pioneer.
Dropped my on the kitchen floor and the stone snapped into 2. Was still in the case at the time🙄 I use it on my Victorinox Swiss Army knife and it works well, so will get another when I find a deal😉
I think that is the problem with all of the ceramic sharpeners. I have tried the Fallkniven DC3 which seems more robust and equally pocketable. I'll put up a review of it in the next week of so.
Yes I use it on my Midnite Manager. Since making this video I have started stropping my knives which is very effective at keeping them sharp after light use.
You still need experience and knowledge, to use this or any sharpening system. Sharpening is 60% Experience, 30% Knowledge and 10% Sharpening Tools. Why only 10%, because if you have a good amount of experience and the knowledge, you can sharpen almost any knife on a piece of sandpaper, and you can maintain it's edge, on a piece of broken ceramic, like your broken mug, or any other item. as also, you can strop on leather, or the common brown cardboard, that most boxes are made out of nowadays... Those are just some examples of course.. Unfortunately, UA-cam is a good and in the same time the worse place, to get info on how to sharpen/maintain, repair your old, or prepare your new knife before first use. That's because the Knife community in UA-cam, with all those people, that come out of nowhere, claiming themselves as experts, that in most cases have little to zero knowledge on knives, is the reason of a ton of misinformation spreading around UA-cam like a disease. (Everybody, copies and reproduces, the misinformation that he got from another video that he watched, and that's how all this misinformation, is spread like a disease) The most common esxcuse, those guys have to hide their ignorance on the subject, is the phrase " We all sharpen differently" etc etc Yes, we all are different, of course that has some truth in it, however, there are rules, like on every job, that you must follow, and some others , that you can't ignore. For example, you can't sharpen a knife with a 13 degree on one side, and a 40 degree on it's other side, and call that "personal way... , and I don't speak about chisel edges or Japanese grinds for hunting knives etc. I speak about someone, who sharpens like that every knife... Again, just an example. Only a handful of UA-camrs, really know their stuff. 95% of them are little, to zero knowledge. people, that just reproduce, and coping, other channels and all the marketing the try to push, from their videos...
Agree 100-percent on quality/information on some/many/most (?) YT videos-not solely on knife sharpening. I’ve learned to “check” info I’m not too keen on-but honestly if I’m not familiar with a topic, it can be difficult to weed out videos with incorrect info so I also rely on comments like yours. 🙏🏻
@@lucchese20 I've also found valuable info, reading comments.I agree. everything you said, is true. Another wise tip is, to not rely to our opinions, because we might be wrong, but rely on facts instead! Facts are facts, there is zero chance to be wrong!
I watched a lot of videos before I even bought the sharpener. Got confused. Tried it out and then started to understand what was needed. SOme of the comments have been great and I have already changed my methodology - using a couple of kitchen knives to practise on. I am the idiot that I hoped the Victorinox sharpener would work for and it does really well for the cost and size ( especially with more practice!!)
@@MB_EDC More practice, and finding a more proper way to use it, will bring way better results. A tip is, to not apply much force, Don't push the knife with hard or medium power, use light, loose but stable grip, just enough to keep the proper angle all the way! Also, on the last passes, we do them even lighter. Remember, that it's all about proper angle, and consistency. The amount of passes, everytime you advance on higher grit, have to be tripled. For example if you were sharpening on stones, it should be something like this:10 passes per side on low grit(240 grit), then 30 on medium grit (1000grit), then 90 passes per side on fine grit (3000grit) and finally it would take a 300 to strop to a mirror finish, however, you can do just 10 per side, to remove any burr if any is left on the edge. Keep these tips, it's the most important ones.
I try to double-check as much of the info as I can. I am still very new to this and my videos are as much about me learning about this stuff myself as much as anything. Hopefully being of interest to a few people along the way...
Thanks. I got into stopping after making this video. Mainly due to add so many people suggesting it. Now I find I don't need to sharpen so much at all and stropping maintains a sharper edge without removing as much metal.
I think it's 40 degrees. So 20 degrees each side. I need to do an update video as more recently I try not to use the ceramic pull through as it is very aggressive and removes a lot of metal
A well done, informative video. I now know better how to use my Victorinox sharpener. Thanks! My only suggestion is to try a few strokes on a leather strop charged with stropping compound, to finish the job. Excellent presentation!
@MB_EDC yes, the DC4 is much easier to use. You can also use the side of the leather pouch as a strop when the stone is inside. The DC3 isn't bad, but is harder to use. Best wishes.
this sharpener is great for field work, however the best results i found is to lay it flat on table and use it as grinding stone angling blade of knife. For V sharpener, safest is to put it on edge of table and pull blade towards table. These V sharpeners can easily lock on some groove in blade and when sharpening like in video can be extremely dagerous. Having fingers on opposite side of V groove is no-go in my opinion.
I do like the Boker Barlow. It is a nice knife - oldschool style. I have shot a video giving it a review - I just need to edit it and it will be coming up in the next 3-4 videos I upload.
the blue stone must be new. It was always grey before. It works but you will never get razor sharp on this type sharpener but it will keep knives functionally sharp and it's quick and easy to use
It most definitely does allow you to get a razor sharp edge. The key is to use a very light touch on your finishing stroke. The pull through part on this is rubbish though. OK for a quick touch up to finish a job, but long term will butcher the edge.
I am managing to get a decent edge on my Victorinox knives - which I guess it is designed for. Really hard to get a good edge for the one knife I have with a 440C blade.
@@MB_EDC If it's decent 440C, then it will take a lot longer to remove the material you'd need to. The steel that they use for SAK's is very soft compared to most everything else out there.
I would only use the pull-through part if there was a visible knick etc on the edge. If the edge is straight but just needs sharpening, I'd use the ceramic and then take it to a strop.
6:23 ... That bit isn't sharpening it is straightening. It's a cool finish not the actual work done. Don't give that little bit 'all' the credit. 8:10 It is loud because it is trying to straighten up all the burr ..not to remove anything. It will take forever to sharpen it that way. I could be very wrong here but I think the v shape ceramics are like the bar that chefs straighten their knives on. They are like icing on the cake not what does the work?
Nice video, and a good view in handling the Victorinox Dual Knife Sharpener, but the "Background " music is quiet too loud, so it´s hard to understand you. Specially for not nativ english speaking folks like me.
Sorry about that. This was one of my early videos. My other sharpening videos have no background music.Knife Sharpening ua-cam.com/play/PLWFhuA986mxNYk5x8NvIbeMoFbFA_vDlB.html
I'll try to find something. I think its meant to be used for fishing hooks - which to be honest I dont have. I guess it could equally work for something pointed like an awl or bodkin. I have mainly used it to make edges blunt to then resharpen as a demo!!!
I agree totally. I am a beginner at sharpening and this was my first try at sharpening. As I practice _ I have using an angle closer to 15 degrees. I have a couple more videos on sharpening if you are interested and I plan to do more as I get more adept
@@MB_EDC I am a beginner top concerning sharpening knives. I got like a triangle when I received my sharpening topls,, so to train your brain and your mustles. Up too 18-20 degrees for outdoor knives and 13-15 for Pocket and Kirchen knifes. As for kitchen knives IT can be less, depending on the edge. Thats how I try to do it. Not perfekt but a good start when learning.
I guess I'm getting one. And hope the folks who make snap off utility knives don't put out a contract on Victorinox for making folks, snap less and sharpen more.
There are cheaper sharpeners, But this was the one that I started with to sharpen my Victorinox knives. I don't use the pull through sharpener any more and tend to strop to get an edge back before I resharpen. This is my favourite and easiest to use sharpener. Check out some of my other sharpening videos. I am not an expert, but I can get and keep a decent edge on my knives (including utility knife blades)
Oops! That is the problem with these sharpeners. Maybe the Sharpal 181N or Falkniven DC3 would suit you better. I have not tried them myself (yet) - but they both look OK
As numerous folks have said, the music is annoying. We came to hear you not fight music. Many people have hearing difficulties and they have to try to tune out the music while tuning n to what you are, saying in a word frustrating.
Apologies for that. This was an early video and I was learning how to make videos. If you check out my other videos you can see I stopped the background music not long after this video. Thanks for stopping by.
It has a very fine grit and can be used wet or dry. The Victorinox video shows it being used dry. Since making this video I have tried using it wet and it worked well.
Mine was very good for a couple of weeks. Then the tiny ceramic "V" rods shifted and became uneven. Do that part is basically useless. Since Victorinox has an awful customer service and warranty, I just chalk this up to a waste of money.
I find that the rod works well. I am not sure that the ceramic pull-through fires much. Possibly just removing any burr or minor excess metal after the initial sharpening. I am trying to get a close up of the ceramic “V” in operation but it’s not easy. A few people have suggested using a leather strop instead.
I don’t know your Vic Service in the US, but here in Germany/Austria/Switzerland they have the greatest customer service I’ve ever seen. You can send a whole damaged knife to them and they will repair and clean it at all the way. Lifetime warranty
Just got one in the post, not that impressed really, would have been better with a coarse and a fine, it will do but expected better results for £13.85
It took me a while to get used to it. It is the equivalent to a fine grit - it should be enough for most knives. In fact I strop more than sharpen most times as it gives a better edge and removes less metal.
Maybe try this one year review...Idiotproof Sharpening after one year's use. Ideal for beginners? Victorinox Dual Knife Sharpener. ua-cam.com/video/Lx79eHSy0Kw/v-deo.html
Don’t use those pull through sharpeners on anything expensive, or knives you care about. Unless the sharpener angle exactly matches that of the factory micro bevel (chances of which are slim to none), you’ll either put a “nano bevel” on the micro bevel, or completely change the factory geometry of the cutting edge.
Thanks for the tip. I am learning so much from the comments and a I’ve stopped using the pull through part of this sharpener. I have started stropping too - which is a game changer.
I'm kind of disappointed from this sharpener, yes it does it's job for the most part, but the rod itself on mine fell off after two months of moderate use. So I had to glue it back together.. So yea.. Swiss quality for ya..
@@MB_EDC Yep, mine is also made in Germany, I was referring to the company itself being from Switzerland. Now don't get me wrong the sharpener is a good bit of kit, a sort of compact on the go type of deal to keep your blades relatively sharp in the field, My disappointment comes from it felling apart on me, other than that it's a good cheap little sharpener and I would recommend it.
@@MB_EDC stropping compound is definitely recommended. Also try to keep the same angle. You can get away with plastic polish or jewelry polish as a compound on the strop in a pinch
NO! Nothing is idiot proof . No matter how simple a thing is humans are simpler . We have been using our eyes as a primary sense for a million years and it is still tricked by some lines ! People stumble and fall to their death or disability every day . its nothing short of a miracle that we have survived let alone thrive for so long !
Sure it's a lot pricier but the Horl 2 is even easier, and very elegant looking (for at home, not on the go like this) ua-cam.com/video/fYNtAex8b2U/v-deo.html
I cannot disagree. The Horl looks much better than the Tumblr. Maybe when I am a successful UA-camr I will get sent a Horl sharpener for free to review 😉
All of the knives are made in Switzerland - this sharpener is made in Germany. It is printed on the plastic collar just below the ceramic blades. You can see it in the video between 9:40 and 9:55.
My son's could tell you that I am not particularly good at this sort of stuff ( I aim to learn though) - so if I can sharpen knives with it I am sure most people can!
just sharpened my knife with a 1000/6000 wetstone. costs just as much and you can use it with your kitchen knives too. also v shaped sharpeners will ruin your knife in the long run. wetstone sharpening is easy to learn.
Oh dear... I did put the "?" at the end of the title... At least its only a few dollars... The Sharpal 127N or the Fallkniven DC3 both look more robust as double-sided pocket sharpeners - but I have not tried either myself.
Is it more expensive where you live or do you have a cheaper alternative? I’m really interested as I am new to sharpening. It’s £14 in Uk. Which I thought was reasonable as it’s packaged well to fit in a work bag or rucksack. The Fallniven DC3. Is £15 also reasonable value for the format.
Oh! I did wonder about how brittle the main part is. Good to know it can be glued. There are some dual grade pocket sharpening systems that are on as metal tang (Sharpal I think). I will look at this eventually. Currently have a backlog of videos to film and edit.
Haha. This was my first try of this and one of my early videos. Most times now it’s about 1-2 minutes on this and/or a couple of minutes stropping. I try to strop more frequently and use this less.
@@MB_EDC Their sales dramatically went up. Currently Victorianox produces 45,000 folding knives per day! Not counting all the other cutlery they produce They produce more folders than most manufacturers globally combined and with unmatched consistent quality.
I find that with practice it works well with the Victorinox knife steel. It takes a long time with the harder steels. Using a leather strop afterwards makes s big difference too
Sorry about that. This was one of my early videos. Almost all of my videos since then are music-free. Why not try this one: ua-cam.com/video/mAa8dm5L_yc/v-deo.htmlsi=5VF6FVaY_7lRYFKy
I carried one of these sharpeners for years. It is a good investment, easy to carry and extremely effective at putting a edge on your knife and quickly. Always use the stone section first, then follow up with the ceramic stick end at the tip of the sharpener.
I have just started using a strop as well which gets a better result and I plan to strop regularly and have to sharpen less.
You’ll find it easier to use and to maintain a consistent angle if you rest the tip of the stone on a flat surface and rest your hand on the same surface. You can establish an angle by starting with the back of the blade resting against the plastic where the stone begins and holding that angle through each stroke. As others have said, stropping the edge after using the sharpener will polish the burr off, making a sharper edge that will last longer. I glued a thin strip of leather to my Vic sharpener. Even without polishing compound, it works great.
Thanks for the tip - that makes sense. I couldn't find some suitable leather to use - so I have just order a cheap strop and a couple of stropping compounds. I'll have a practice on some kitchen knives and record another video in a couple of weeks.
Get an old bit of leather belt and once you have finished sharping the knife. Run it along the leather to take off any burr and it will be smooth at cutting. From an X butcher.
Thanks for the tip. I have actually bought a cheap stropping kit, including some compound and it makes a huge difference. I have a video about it.
This has been my go to sharpener for a long time. It just works.
I do want to try a couple of different sharpeners as well, but so far this has worked really well.
I've had the same one of these for 27 years. Still works well. 🙂
Wow! That's what you call a long term test!!
I've been thinking about getting this to sharpen my pocket knife at work. Thank you for the demonstration! :)
If you want your knives razor sharp - use this type of sharpener and then a leather strop with some stopping compound. I have another video about this.
I have a few of those sharpeners, very handy for sharpening away from home. One tip is when using the stone if can bd easier to put the end of the stone on a work surface and angle the sharpener at 20 degrees then run the blade against it straight down. It’s a bit easier to keep the angle constant that way.
Great tip thanks. I can see that that makes it easier to keep the angle consistent
Just like with the Spyderco system, the rods are held at the angle.
Interesting tip. Having trouble visualizing this technique given how the stone is made and shaped. Is a video using this tip possible? Thanks.
Ah yes - I have seen that
I have tried using a cheap microscope - and it looks grainy - I'll try to show in a later video
I believe you’ll find your edge would be much better using a leather strop. I use two different strops one with green compound and one with like a diamond paste. The other thing I use is a ceramic rod. I highly recommend getting all three it will take you to a level you’ve never seen. The leather can be old belts the wax is very cheap. In America Smokey mountain has a giant ceramic rod for $5.00. You can also use coffee cup upside down.
Thanks for the tip!
I took this and an opinel when i backpacked thru europe a few years ago, served me extrenely well. I skip the pull thru as it has a tendency to rip out the edge.
As a protip, if you mark the edge bevel with a sharpie, you can quickly assess if youre matching the angle with the stone
Thanks for taking three time to comment I have leant so much over the last few months. I really like the sharpener and do use the marker tip. I also have learnt to strop as well and tend to do that more than sharpening if the edge is dull and undamaged. It gives a sharper edge and removes less metal. I have tried an Opinel (see my videos) but don't like it that much. I prefer a good Victorinox such as the Bantam.
If you plan on sticking with a pull through sharpener I WOULD RECOMMEND getting a leather strop and some polishing conpound for using after your sharpener. If you sharpen then strop the blade, it will be much much sharper.. also not sure if you know because you said your new to sharpening but Re-profiling will make your knife sharper. Say it was sharpened at 25° per side originally, if it was re profiled at 20°, 18°, or any angle that is more acute than the original angle the knife will be sharper.
Thanks for the advice. I plan to get strop next. Several people have recommended this. I have learnt a lot from the comments.
@MB_EDC that's awesome man for real and it does make a big difference. I was thinking I'm not great at sharpening but I am I just needed to strop after to make my edge even better
I will order one this weekend. So expect another video on this in the next couple of weeks.
I use this sharpener very often. (Well, probably an older version of it, because my stone is not blue but gray.)
I use it on my pocket knives when I don't have much time, and I maintain my mother's kitchen knives with this.
That stone is really great. Aggressive enough so that it doesn't take forever to remove some material, but fine enough to provide a very sharp and clean edge. On point, in my opinion.
But: I hate the pull-through part. Unless the bevel's angle *perfectly* matches the pull-through angle (which is almost impossible), I believe that it just creates a micro bevel on the edge. (As far as I can see, that's what happened on your Spyderco, and probably on the others as well.) This is OK for a quick touch-up between proper sharpenings, but I don't think it's optimal. I tried a few times, hated it and I never use it.
The stone alone is great for a sharp edge, and if you happen to have a strop, you can get it crazy sharp.
I did wonder about the ceramic pull through. I think a strop is the next step for me in my knife sharpening journey. Thanks for your comment.
@@MB_EDC A strop can take your edge to the next level, for sure.
Until then, I suggest to practice sharpening with the rod of the dual sharpener. I didn't have great results with it in the beginning, but the more muscle memory and more experience with the different steels I built, the better results I got. Just make sure to hold the same angle, then it should be OK :)
What also helped me learning was coloring the edge with a marker. this way I could see if my angle was too high, too low or just right.
@@miklospinter Thanks for the advice - I really appreciate it.
That looks fine for taking into the field. For home use I have a series of wet stones in various grades. You can buy the Chinese ones for just a few bucks each and they do a good job. I prefer to transition to a fine diamond hone after the 3000 grit stone. Fine stones take too long to shape a profile, and course stones make an edge that doesn't don't hone very well (it's ragged). I don't like the scraper type sharpeners because they can remove too much metal, become less accurate with time or abuse, and they lock you into a profile that is probably better suited to kitchen or utility knifes. It is the low skill approach though, and maybe where most people start.
I also prefer a 15° profile. It makes a much sharper edge for most knife steels, and doesn't compromise too much on durability. This comes down to the steel and personal preference though - do you want it to be really sharp, or do you want to last? Good knife steel will normally last OK with a 15° profile, but if you use your camping blade for spitting wood (hitting the spine of the blade to run it down the branch) or other rough tasks (liking cutting up a few dozen cardboard boxes) maybe 20° would the sharpest you want to go.
You can buy or make guides to hold the stones at the correct angle, and in fact the Chinese stones are designed to be used in such a machine. My diamond hone cost more than all the Chinese stones. There are more expensive options of course, but this stuff is just fine and doesn't take up much room or weight in the pack if I decided to take some of them with me. If I wanted something that fit in a pocket or small pouch I would take a small oil stone and the diamond hone.
The game changer for me was really the fine diamond hone. It can finish an edge that you can shave hair with. Leather strops are probably good too (with diamond paste) but I'd only go there if I wanted to sharpen a cut throat razor or scalpel blades. The diamond hones don't wear out, but they do take a short while to lose their rough edge and wear in.
Knife sharpening is one of those things, if you ask ten people you'll get ten different methods. The wet stone method with various grades is what professional knife sharpeners use on the best blades though. I'm not at their level, but I can profile and sharpen a knife pretty quickly no matter what condition it is in.
ETA: for the sharpening stones that are designed to fit into the tool search for ADAEE sharpening stones and shop around. They don't cost very much as they are synthetic. Remember they are water stones, not dry or oil.
Wow! Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed comment. I am learning so much from the comments people leave. I think that I will progress to full sized sharpening stones and the diamond ones have been y recommended a couple of times now. I have bought another small sharpener the Fallniven DC3 and the Lansky Puck for axes and lawn mower blades. I have started stripping too, which is great for light use knives that have just lost their edge a little. I am still a beginner at this and learning all the time. I really just wanted to encourage people to have a go.
That background music is just annoying
Thanks for your comment. My son said the same thing - I should have listened to him! 🙂
Yea but you should thank him for making a useful video.
All comments so far are good. I am 2 months into making videos. Really enjoying it and learning so much as I go.
@@MB_EDC I hear you. Good that you take it constructively.
Point out 10 positives for every negative you have, watch your life improve, repeat.
I have tried them all, the best is the ordinary lansky crock sticks. Ceramic rods coarse and fine. Razor edge and no scratches on blade.
I have seen those. Not tried them yet.
it’s perfect for my SAK’s
It's what I use for mine. Which SAKs do you have?
Think about it: if you're using a V-shaped sharpener, which obviously has a fixed angle, and if that is not the angle your knife's blade was originally sharpened at, you're doing exactly what you're trying not to do - reprofiling the blade. Also, the V-shaped part of the sharpener is only meant for removing the burr (if any) before sharpening on the stone part, because it takes way too much material off the blade, that's why it was so loud.
Thanks - that makes sense.
Nope. Still requires manually holding the correct edge angle. Not for me.
@@mencken8 it is tricky, but as a field sharpening this works well
@@MB_EDC I don’t question that it is good as a field tool; when it comes to being on the go, handy trumps easy every time. But for general home sharpening, I’ll take my Lansky set every time.
@@mencken8 as I get more practised I can see the limitations of this sharpener and the importance of stropping. As I as more knives to my collection I can see the need for a bench top sharpener. I do have a Lansky Puck for sharpening my hand axe and will have a video on that shortly.
The music was NOT really annoying but I did not have earphones on.
The content, which was really the most important stuff, was good.
And I bought one recently (less than a month ago) the stone was still gray.
Thanks for the comment about the music. I'll try a few videos with/without. I am still learning here.... It may be my lights that make it look blue - in normal light it looks grey with a slight blue tinge.
Worksharp precision adjust best at home sharpener I've used for a small field sharpener the worksharp guided field sharpener is the best I've used
Thanks for the tip. I’ll have a look at those. I am really a beginner at sharpening
I bought one these for father in law. I was so impressed I got one for myself. Don’t remember getting any instructions though.
There are a couple of Victorinox videos on UA-cam and I have learnt a lot from the many comments for this video.
I think the worksharp precision adjust sharpening system is far and away the best value for the fixed angle set up you get at around 60$ USD. Other similar systems are either, too expensive, or not as precise ( KME and Lansky sharpeners, respectively). If you really want a fine, sharp edge, then a worksharp is the cheapest, and fastest way to get it. P.S. it is also capable of achieving a mirror polish on the edge of any knife, if you know how
Hi Angel. Thanks for the tip. Of course you are right! I will work up to that sort of system when I have enough knives to sharpen. And...so far I am getting some decent results just with the victorinox.
Good video.
I believe the reason for it being 'louder' on the Boker is because of the blade material. The Boker had a higher Carbon content so yes it is having to work harder then the relatively softer Stainless Steel of the Grasshopper or Pioneer.
Thanks. That makes sense I am a beginner at sharpening knives and I am learning so much from everyone’s comments
Just a fun note the ceramic sharpener can't really be used on thicker knives like mora's. The edge just can't quite fit.
I did wonder about that. Luckily most of my knives in the UK are thin enough to fit.
Dropped my on the kitchen floor and the stone snapped into 2.
Was still in the case at the time🙄
I use it on my Victorinox Swiss Army knife and it works well, so will get another when I find a deal😉
I think that is the problem with all of the ceramic sharpeners. I have tried the Fallkniven DC3 which seems more robust and equally pocketable. I'll put up a review of it in the next week of so.
can it sharpen 58mm victorinox blades, i have a mini champ that could do with a touch up.. good video, very informative 😃
Yes I use it on my Midnite Manager. Since making this video I have started stropping my knives which is very effective at keeping them sharp after light use.
You still need experience and knowledge, to use this or any sharpening system. Sharpening is 60% Experience, 30% Knowledge and 10% Sharpening Tools. Why only 10%, because if you have a good amount of experience and the knowledge, you can sharpen almost any knife on a piece of sandpaper, and you can maintain it's edge, on a piece of broken ceramic, like your broken mug, or any other item. as also, you can strop on leather, or the common brown cardboard, that most boxes are made out of nowadays... Those are just some examples of course..
Unfortunately, UA-cam is a good and in the same time the worse place, to get info on how to sharpen/maintain, repair your old, or prepare your new knife before first use. That's because the Knife community in UA-cam, with all those people, that come out of nowhere, claiming themselves as experts, that in most cases have little to zero knowledge on knives, is the reason of a ton of misinformation spreading around UA-cam like a disease. (Everybody, copies and reproduces, the misinformation that he got from another video that he watched, and that's how all this misinformation, is spread like a disease)
The most common esxcuse, those guys have to hide their ignorance on the subject, is the phrase " We all sharpen differently" etc etc Yes, we all are different, of course that has some truth in it, however, there are rules, like on every job, that you must follow, and some others , that you can't ignore. For example, you can't sharpen a knife with a 13 degree on one side, and a 40 degree on it's other side, and call that "personal way... , and I don't speak about chisel edges or Japanese grinds for hunting knives etc. I speak about someone, who sharpens like that every knife... Again, just an example. Only a handful of UA-camrs, really know their stuff. 95% of them are little, to zero knowledge. people, that just reproduce, and coping, other channels and all the marketing the try to push, from their videos...
Agree 100-percent on quality/information on some/many/most (?) YT videos-not solely on knife sharpening. I’ve learned to “check” info I’m not too keen on-but honestly if I’m not familiar with a topic, it can be difficult to weed out videos with incorrect info so I also rely on comments like yours. 🙏🏻
@@lucchese20 I've also found valuable info, reading comments.I agree. everything you said, is true. Another wise tip is, to not rely to our opinions, because we might be wrong, but rely on facts instead! Facts are facts, there is zero chance to be wrong!
I watched a lot of videos before I even bought the sharpener. Got confused. Tried it out and then started to understand what was needed. SOme of the comments have been great and I have already changed my methodology - using a couple of kitchen knives to practise on. I am the idiot that I hoped the Victorinox sharpener would work for and it does really well for the cost and size ( especially with more practice!!)
@@MB_EDC More practice, and finding a more proper way to use it, will bring way better results. A tip is, to not apply much force, Don't push the knife with hard or medium power, use light, loose but stable grip, just enough to keep the proper angle all the way! Also, on the last passes, we do them even lighter. Remember, that it's all about proper angle, and consistency. The amount of passes, everytime you advance on higher grit, have to be tripled. For example if you were sharpening on stones, it should be something like this:10 passes per side on low grit(240 grit), then 30 on medium grit (1000grit), then 90 passes per side on fine grit (3000grit) and finally it would take a 300 to strop to a mirror finish, however, you can do just 10 per side, to remove any burr if any is left on the edge. Keep these tips, it's the most important ones.
I try to double-check as much of the info as I can. I am still very new to this and my videos are as much about me learning about this stuff myself as much as anything. Hopefully being of interest to a few people along the way...
Have to run it across a strop after. Not much, just 5-10 strokes either side to get rid of the metal you have just removed.
Thanks. I got into stopping after making this video. Mainly due to add so many people suggesting it. Now I find I don't need to sharpen so much at all and stropping maintains a sharper edge without removing as much metal.
How many angle for ceramic v shape for sharpening ?
I think it's 40 degrees. So 20 degrees each side. I need to do an update video as more recently I try not to use the ceramic pull through as it is very aggressive and removes a lot of metal
A well done, informative video. I now know better how to use my Victorinox sharpener. Thanks!
My only suggestion is to try a few strokes on a leather strop charged with stropping compound, to finish the job. Excellent presentation!
Thanks for the positive comments! A strop is definitely on my shopping list - thanks for the suggestion.
I always recommend a Fallkniven DC4. These are good, but the Fallkniven is superior.
I have bought a DC3 and really like it, but it is very small and I think I should have gone for the DC4
@MB_EDC yes, the DC4 is much easier to use. You can also use the side of the leather pouch as a strop when the stone is inside. The DC3 isn't bad, but is harder to use. Best wishes.
Thanks for the tip.
Is it possible to sharpen the reamer in the alox knife with this ?
Yes definitely
this sharpener is great for field work, however the best results i found is to lay it flat on table and use it as grinding stone angling blade of knife. For V sharpener, safest is to put it on edge of table and pull blade towards table. These V sharpeners can easily lock on some groove in blade and when sharpening like in video can be extremely dagerous. Having fingers on opposite side of V groove is no-go in my opinion.
This is one of my early videos on this sharpener. Check out my latest one. I stopped using the "V" sharpener..
A stropping with leather, adds a little fine tuning after sharpening it.
Definitely! I made this video when I was new to sharpening. Now I strop more than sharpen.
Fantastic very useful
Thanks! Glad you liked it…
I’m a sucker for anything that will sharpen a knife. I’m going to get one on Amazon, now.
I have tried other field sharpeners but I keep coming back too this one as it's really easy to use.
That Böker is very nice! I'm thinking about getting a similar one for a while now...
I do like the Boker Barlow. It is a nice knife - oldschool style. I have shot a video giving it a review - I just need to edit it and it will be coming up in the next 3-4 videos I upload.
the blue stone must be new. It was always grey before. It works but you will never get razor sharp on this type sharpener but it will keep knives functionally sharp and it's quick and easy to use
I like the phrase you use - "functionally sharp". That sounds good enough to me. I'm not looking to shave with any of my knives!
It most definitely does allow you to get a razor sharp edge. The key is to use a very light touch on your finishing stroke. The pull through part on this is rubbish though. OK for a quick touch up to finish a job, but long term will butcher the edge.
I am managing to get a decent edge on my Victorinox knives - which I guess it is designed for. Really hard to get a good edge for the one knife I have with a 440C blade.
@@MB_EDC If it's decent 440C, then it will take a lot longer to remove the material you'd need to. The steel that they use for SAK's is very soft compared to most everything else out there.
@@thefunk8398 That's so true, some steels are a right bugger to sharpen that's for sure.
I would only use the pull-through part if there was a visible knick etc on the edge. If the edge is straight but just needs sharpening, I'd use the ceramic and then take it to a strop.
Thanks. I am struggling to see the benefit of the pull through section. I need to do some more research on this.
That makes sense - or maybe a leather strop will work as well?
Very helpful, thanks
Thanks. I will do a follow up - I have been using it for a year now...
6:23 ... That bit isn't sharpening it is straightening. It's a cool finish not the actual work done. Don't give that little bit 'all' the credit. 8:10 It is loud because it is trying to straighten up all the burr ..not to remove anything. It will take forever to sharpen it that way. I could be very wrong here but I think the v shape ceramics are like the bar that chefs straighten their knives on. They are like icing on the cake not what does the work?
I understand. Thanks for the tip. I am still learning.
Thank you !!! Very good
Thank you!!!
Nice video, and a good view in handling the Victorinox Dual Knife Sharpener, but the "Background " music is quiet too loud, so it´s hard to understand you. Specially for not nativ english speaking folks like me.
Sorry about that. This was one of my early videos. My other sharpening videos have no background music.Knife Sharpening
ua-cam.com/play/PLWFhuA986mxNYk5x8NvIbeMoFbFA_vDlB.html
Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thanks Norm. I need to do an update video I have used this a lot over three last year.
I'd like to see you using that central groove to sharpen something?
I'll try to find something. I think its meant to be used for fishing hooks - which to be honest I dont have. I guess it could equally work for something pointed like an awl or bodkin. I have mainly used it to make edges blunt to then resharpen as a demo!!!
I would receive a fallkniven DC 4 as a much better field sharpener for a similar price
This has been recommended by a few people now. I will get one to do some comparisons
I want you to try use Ax for woods to see how will be sharper.
It seems to be quite a fine grit stone and I am not sure it will be able to sharpen an axe. Maybe after using a coarse carborundum stone.
@@MB_EDC I would love to see this test. Since they have not test yet in UA-cam.
Let me see what I can do. I have a few videos planned, I’ll have a go with it.
@@MB_EDC great! Looking forward! Keep up more!
Lansky 'puck' shaped composite stone is excellent for axe's. It'd take a decade with the victorinox. I got both.
personally I use a Lansky Pocket Crock Stick for my SAKs and other thin bladed knives
I haven’t seen that. I’ll look out for it. Thanks for suggestion
Thanks, very helpful!
Thanks. I have a more recent video where I have improved my technique and there are some great tips in some of the comments
great video, I use a Fallkniven DC 4 for my SAK.
That is a nice sharpening system. I have an idea to buy something like that next. After I have mastered the Victorinox one
Add a small leather strop to your kit and you’re set.
Great idea...I do strop all of my knives
Is this knife sharpener idiot proof ? *me a card carrying idiot * 'challenge accepted'
I am an idiot when it comes to knife sharpening and I got it to work and didn’t cut myself. Result!
How much
You can buy it on Amazon. amzn.to/45Y3vvP. It is usually somewhere between $15-$20
Good review sir
Thank you. It was a beginner’s review and I have learnt a lot, including from the comments. I have a video on my first go at stropping too!
Whenever I see the phrase "idiot proof", the universe always seems to want to prove to me that I can be a better idiot
That’s pretty much the same for me.
20 degrees are too much for this blade I would suggest
I agree totally. I am a beginner at sharpening and this was my first try at sharpening. As I practice _ I have using an angle closer to 15 degrees. I have a couple more videos on sharpening if you are interested and I plan to do more as I get more adept
@@MB_EDC I am a beginner top concerning sharpening knives. I got like a triangle when I received my sharpening topls,, so to train your brain and your mustles. Up too 18-20 degrees for outdoor knives and 13-15 for Pocket and Kirchen knifes. As for kitchen knives IT can be less, depending on the edge. Thats how I try to do it. Not perfekt but a good start when learning.
@@ChrisDraussen Thanks for the tip - I have seen the angle guides. I think my son has offered to 3d print one for me...
@@MB_EDC thats cool... Maybe you sell it 😁
@@ChrisDraussen Haha! maybe - it would be cheap to produce. But their only £7 for 2 on amazon maybe cheaper on Aliexpress
Most convenient tool, I like it
Thanks for the review.
Nice and clear.
The stone is a "wetstone" indeed... Dipping it in water will highly help the process ;)
Thanks. All comments are welcome and helping me improve!
It's my understanding all Victor Knox products are made in Switzerland!!! 🤠👍🇩🇰
The knives yes. This sharpening stone not. It says on it “made in Germany”
I guess I'm getting one. And hope the folks who make snap off utility knives don't put out a contract on Victorinox for making folks, snap less and sharpen more.
There are cheaper sharpeners, But this was the one that I started with to sharpen my Victorinox knives. I don't use the pull through sharpener any more and tend to strop to get an edge back before I resharpen. This is my favourite and easiest to use sharpener. Check out some of my other sharpening videos. I am not an expert, but I can get and keep a decent edge on my knives (including utility knife blades)
Mine fell to the ground and snapped in 2. I just guess its idiot-prone then.
Oops! That is the problem with these sharpeners. Maybe the Sharpal 181N or Falkniven DC3 would suit you better. I have not tried them myself (yet) - but they both look OK
Follow up with strop.
I have just got a strop and have a video about my first ever try with it. I will do some follow up videos too.
As numerous folks have said, the music is annoying. We came to hear you not fight music. Many people have hearing difficulties and they have to try to tune out the music while tuning n to what you are, saying in a word frustrating.
Apologies for that. This was an early video and I was learning how to make videos. If you check out my other videos you can see I stopped the background music not long after this video. Thanks for stopping by.
@mb_edc is it a dry stone for sharpening or a wet stone?
It has a very fine grit and can be used wet or dry. The Victorinox video shows it being used dry. Since making this video I have tried using it wet and it worked well.
Just look up Felix Immler and follow his advice on sharpening Swiss knives
Thanks. Felix is the God of Victorinox.
Please get rid of the unnecessary background music. It is really offputting.
Point noted. Other people have said the same. I have done for all of my recent videos.
Mine was very good for a couple of weeks. Then the tiny ceramic "V" rods shifted and became uneven. Do that part is basically useless.
Since Victorinox has an awful customer service and warranty, I just chalk this up to a waste of money.
I find that the rod works well. I am not sure that the ceramic pull-through fires much. Possibly just removing any burr or minor excess metal after the initial sharpening. I am trying to get a close up of the ceramic “V” in operation but it’s not easy. A few people have suggested using a leather strop instead.
I don’t know your Vic Service in the US, but here in Germany/Austria/Switzerland they have the greatest customer service I’ve ever seen. You can send a whole damaged knife to them and they will repair and clean it at all the way. Lifetime warranty
Just got one in the post, not that impressed really, would have been better with a coarse and a fine, it will do but expected better results for £13.85
It took me a while to get used to it. It is the equivalent to a fine grit - it should be enough for most knives. In fact I strop more than sharpen most times as it gives a better edge and removes less metal.
Never made it past the clumsy package opening.
Maybe try this one year review...Idiotproof Sharpening after one year's use. Ideal for beginners? Victorinox Dual Knife Sharpener.
ua-cam.com/video/Lx79eHSy0Kw/v-deo.html
Don’t use those pull through sharpeners on anything expensive, or knives you care about. Unless the sharpener angle exactly matches that of the factory micro bevel (chances of which are slim to none), you’ll either put a “nano bevel” on the micro bevel, or completely change the factory geometry of the cutting edge.
Thanks for the tip. I am learning so much from the comments and a I’ve stopped using the pull through part of this sharpener. I have started stropping too - which is a game changer.
@@MB_EDC Thank you! Thoroughly enjoy the content👍
@@georgecostanza2695 Thank you. I am enjoying making the videos.
I'm kind of disappointed from this sharpener, yes it does it's job for the most part, but the rod itself on mine fell off after two months of moderate use. So I had to glue it back together.. So yea.. Swiss quality for ya..
Really! Mine has been OK so far. The sharpener odd made in Germany. It’s only the knives that are all Swiss made
@@MB_EDC Yep, mine is also made in Germany, I was referring to the company itself being from Switzerland. Now don't get me wrong the sharpener is a good bit of kit, a sort of compact on the go type of deal to keep your blades relatively sharp in the field, My disappointment comes from it felling apart on me, other than that it's a good cheap little sharpener and I would recommend it.
I usw my leather belt at the end for stropping....
I've tried an old leather belt and not found much benefit. Maybe I need some stropping compound?
@@MB_EDC stropping compound is definitely recommended. Also try to keep the same angle. You can get away with plastic polish or jewelry polish as a compound on the strop in a pinch
Yes a compound is better...
Thanks - I’ll try that
@@MB_EDC Probably best just to buy a dedicated leather strop. You can pick one up for a reasonable price.
Need a leather strop for the finish, and you would all set.
That is what most people are telling me - do you use stropping compound as well?
Just take off your belt and strop the blades. Easy and works much better (after some practice)
Great point! I made this video a while ago... I am now very much into stroppingand do a lot less sharpening...
Be careful using the term idiotproof... Some people see this as a challenge
That is true! In my videos I am the idiot trying to get the sharpener to work..,
Yeah, like "unbreakable"
We'll fkin sees boutz thatzs
😂😂😂
I own one it’s ok but not great, touch up sharpening
I don't think that this will be my last sharpener. It's been aneasy starting point
Maybe 95% idiot resistant, but not foolproof.
It does take a lot of practice to keep the angle correct. But it did put a better edge on my knives. I am a beginner. What would you recommend?
The problem with idiots is that they could mess up an inert amorphous lump of pure nothing.
The one good thing is that I managed not to cut myself
It hasn’t met me yet, so doubt it.
I managed to get it to work and I am not good at this sort of stuff.
NO!
Nothing is idiot proof . No matter how simple a thing is humans are simpler . We have been using our eyes as a primary sense for a million years and it is still tricked by some lines ! People stumble and fall to their death or disability every day . its nothing short of a miracle that we have survived let alone thrive for so long !
ha! overall I agree with you - I am the idiot in this case still learning about thow to sharpen my knives
Probably not , if there’s one thing life has taught me it’s that stupidity will always find a way to succeed !🤦♂️
True. Turning blunt knives into sharp knives…what could possibly go wrong. In this case I am the idiot learning to sharpen my knives.
Check out our species - nothing is idiotproof! 😉
True.. in this case practice improves ability.
Sure it's a lot pricier but the Horl 2 is even easier, and very elegant looking (for at home, not on the go like this)
ua-cam.com/video/fYNtAex8b2U/v-deo.html
I cannot disagree. The Horl looks much better than the Tumblr. Maybe when I am a successful UA-camr I will get sent a Horl sharpener for free to review 😉
Never ever use a draw thru knife sharpener..................................................
I think I need to do an update on this video. I have learnt a lot since I made this.
so if you already work with Victorinox then you should already know that it comes from Switzerland and not Germany
All of the knives are made in Switzerland - this sharpener is made in Germany. It is printed on the plastic collar just below the ceramic blades. You can see it in the video between 9:40 and 9:55.
Let me use the sharpener, if I can use it then it'll definitely be idiot proof.
My son's could tell you that I am not particularly good at this sort of stuff ( I aim to learn though) - so if I can sharpen knives with it I am sure most people can!
just sharpened my knife with a 1000/6000 wetstone. costs just as much and you can use it with your kitchen knives too. also v shaped sharpeners will ruin your knife in the long run. wetstone sharpening is easy to learn.
A good point. This is really just a field sharpener. I the year since I made this video I have been looking at more standard wetstones to use at home.
I just came to say that this sharpener isn't idiot proof because this idiot (me) dropped it and the stone broke 😂.
Oh dear... I did put the "?" at the end of the title... At least its only a few dollars... The Sharpal 127N or the Fallkniven DC3 both look more robust as double-sided pocket sharpeners - but I have not tried either myself.
The price is too high.
Is it more expensive where you live or do you have a cheaper alternative? I’m really interested as I am new to sharpening. It’s £14 in Uk. Which I thought was reasonable as it’s packaged well to fit in a work bag or rucksack. The Fallniven DC3. Is £15 also reasonable value for the format.
Not proof against this idiot, I had mine in a knee pocket and managed to break the stone😢 superglued it together and it still works fine though
Oh! I did wonder about how brittle the main part is. Good to know it can be glued. There are some dual grade pocket sharpening systems that are on as metal tang (Sharpal I think). I will look at this eventually. Currently have a backlog of videos to film and edit.
11 minutes!!!? Could have done thi sin 11 seconds
Haha. This was my first try of this and one of my early videos. Most times now it’s about 1-2 minutes on this and/or a couple of minutes stropping. I try to strop more frequently and use this less.
O no plz people this is not a good knife sharpener
I found it OK as a beginner. What would you recommend?
I can sharpen those for you
I wont charge ya.
I need to learn to sharpen myself. I think it’s a key life skill.
@@MB_EDC facts my guy.
Victorianox seldom makes mistakes
They did well to continue in business after the knife ban came in for flights. I lost a decent SAK then and went a few years without an SAK
@@MB_EDC Their sales dramatically went up.
Currently Victorianox produces 45,000 folding knives per day!
Not counting all the other cutlery they produce
They produce more folders than most manufacturers globally combined and with unmatched consistent quality.
@@felinebline7154 wow. I can believe it their quality is excellent!
I bought it with big hopes years ago. It is rubbish.
I find that with practice it works well with the Victorinox knife steel. It takes a long time with the harder steels. Using a leather strop afterwards makes s big difference too
Not idiot proof at all…you sure you had that perfect 20 degrees? I think not…
That is difficult with these pocket sharpeners. In the next sharpening video I do better - although the camera angle doesn’t show it well.
Too much needless talk.
Fair point. This was one of my early videos last year. Why don't you check out a couple of my more recent videos and let me know what you think?
Nothing is idiot proof. If you want to test it just hand it to my parents
Haha!! I am a parent and grandparent!!! I used to say this about my parents too!!!
Unnecessary annoying music
Sorry about that. This was one of my early videos. Almost all of my videos since then are music-free. Why not try this one: ua-cam.com/video/mAa8dm5L_yc/v-deo.htmlsi=5VF6FVaY_7lRYFKy
absolute junk
I’ve found it OK. But I am definitely looking for some thing else now. As I am an absolute beginner at this what would you recommend
@@MB_EDC A diamond rod if you need portability. A Lansky for an exact edge.
@@jgbelmont thanks for the recommendations. I have got a Fallkniven DC3, but haven’t reviewed it yet.
@@MB_EDC nice