I just snagged some shims for my Kellys not too long ago, and for the life of me, I cannot understand why it took me so long to discover this upgrade. So simple, but so rewarding! Thanks for making this video Bryce! 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Man once again a great trem mod video. You are the guy on this subject
Місяць тому+2
Excellent info. Thanks man. But a little tip. When I’m doing similar jobs I just unhook the springs and remove the bridge from the guitar with strings intact. Makes for effortless and joyous Floyd Rose fun 😊
Kiesel actually radius their floyds adding shims from the factory. Also schaller now makes different radiused floyds and saddle sets and like someone mentioned Floyd rose does it too.
You want the fret board flat so that when you crank up 2 step bends and beyond you dont fret out on the radius. As you bring the higher registure strings upward the string will interfere with the fret radius.
I got a cheap squier with a rock solid fr1000. The term is so good that I’m hot rodding the entire guitar and building a custom ratocaster based entirely around how well this bridge works. I love it, only thing I need to do to the term is take it all off and replace the arm system as the screw in system is too lose and has a minor dead spot which I don’t like
The push in arms are around $15/each and VERY MUCH WORTH IT. I have 2 FR1000's and I put the push in arms on both. I'll never play a Floyd any other way again. It's insane how much it cleans up the playbin the arm and raises the response.
Yo have you heard of the Treminator from Tone Vise? I know a few hears ago you did a review of the Tremmory, and in that review you aslo mention the Tremol-no and say it has bad execution. The Treminator is advertised as basically a combination of the two, plus some bonus features. It looks really high quality, but as someone kind of strapped for cash I would love some non biased reviews. Anyway, good stuff!
This would have been good to know years ago. I've been making my own shims cutting up feeler gauges for years now. Also if you pop the springs on the back of the trem you can usually get enough slack to put the strings back in the saddles....not that I've cheaped out a billion times on strings.
Been wondering about these for awhile, ordered some after watching this. In particular, on a couple of Charvel San Dimas' with 12-16" compound radius fingerboards, it seems that the 19th/20th fret on the high E string only wants to be a pain in the ass and fret out on me. Hopefully this will help.
I've wondered before which end of the compound to go with on my Jackson bridges. Now that I know this... I will try both. I suspect I might prefer the 12 as I do play more rhythms than lead. Thanks for the info!
Awesome man. Keen to try it out. Bought the Tremmory on your recommendation, And I loved it So I give this a go, doesn't look crazy hard to install which is good.
It really depends! On most I use 37mm blocks, but one of my RRs for some reason is only big enough for a 32mm block. Stick a ruler in there and measure if there will be enough space!
I was looking at the saddles on my FR1000. Each saddle is a different thickness. The Lo pro edge from Ibanez, it’s the baseplate that’s milled with little steps for each saddle. These bridges come stock on production guitars so I’m assuming the bridge has to already match the radius of the neck from the factory. Would you only need shims for aftermarket bridges?
I’ve never owned an Ibanez, so I can’t speak to how those are setup from the factory. The FR1000 will only be set at a 12” radius. So if you have a guitar with a flatter radius, like a Jackson, I would shim it as part of the overall final setup.
Man, this is solid content! I have a compound radius fretboard on a guitar. I never thought about this. I just measured my Floyd and its set for 12"! I think i will try this out. Because it does make sense the way you describe it. I just ordered the 16. I think it will make a difference. Some players may not notice. But ive been at this for 30 years. I can notice small adjustments on any guitar. Maybe thats why that compound radius model never felt right to me? My Schecter Hellraiser is my #1 and it is a straight 12". Cool idea.
@bvanhoosen it worked! Feels...smoother now? Hard to describe. I feel like bends above the 12th fret feel better? It's hard to describe. Chords still feel good too further down the neck. So it works both ways. Thanks again for the tip, and keep rocking. 👍
@bvanhoosen nice you must use really low tension springs. I've been thinking about trying .9s but I am always afraid I'm gonna break them. Any recommendations on long lasting .9s?
Thx for this video bro! I think this is helps a lot for picking motion, if the radius is all over the place , you will have a hard time with fast alternate picking 2 way pick slanting.. not 100% sure but I think it will help a lot if ur radius is on point .
If your factory Floyd equipped guitar needs shims then it wasn't built or specs properly. This is only something you need if a dingleberry assembled your guitar.
I do that all the time with the FR bridge! String breaks, so I just slide it on back in and lock 🤣 I like to play this game called “how long can I keep the same strings on here?”
I just snagged some shims for my Kellys not too long ago, and for the life of me, I cannot understand why it took me so long to discover this upgrade. So simple, but so rewarding! Thanks for making this video Bryce! 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
My absolute pleasure! Definitely a cheap and easy upgrade 💪💪
Man once again a great trem mod video. You are the guy on this subject
Excellent info. Thanks man. But a little tip. When I’m doing similar jobs I just unhook the springs and remove the bridge from the guitar with strings intact. Makes for effortless and joyous Floyd Rose fun 😊
I do that sometimes! Idk for this one it felt easier to just leave it on
That's how you fuck up the fulcrum edge.
@ only if you are clumsy 😉
Kiesel actually radius their floyds adding shims from the factory. Also schaller now makes different radiused floyds and saddle sets and like someone mentioned Floyd rose does it too.
Floyd shims have been around for a long long time.
You want the fret board flat so that when you crank up 2 step bends and beyond you dont fret out on the radius. As you bring the higher registure strings upward the string will interfere with the fret radius.
6:45 it's not going to get flatter at the bridge. It starts at 12 and ends at 16 because that is the way the fretboard in shaped, it stops at 16.
I got a cheap squier with a rock solid fr1000. The term is so good that I’m hot rodding the entire guitar and building a custom ratocaster based entirely around how well this bridge works. I love it, only thing I need to do to the term is take it all off and replace the arm system as the screw in system is too lose and has a minor dead spot which I don’t like
Ah yes! I’ve had that before. Check out the push in arm or the old style arm! Much better than the threaded collar imo
The push in arms are around $15/each and VERY MUCH WORTH IT. I have 2 FR1000's and I put the push in arms on both. I'll never play a Floyd any other way again. It's insane how much it cleans up the playbin the arm and raises the response.
Yo have you heard of the Treminator from Tone Vise? I know a few hears ago you did a review of the Tremmory, and in that review you aslo mention the Tremol-no and say it has bad execution. The Treminator is advertised as basically a combination of the two, plus some bonus features. It looks really high quality, but as someone kind of strapped for cash I would love some non biased reviews. Anyway, good stuff!
This would have been good to know years ago. I've been making my own shims cutting up feeler gauges for years now. Also if you pop the springs on the back of the trem you can usually get enough slack to put the strings back in the saddles....not that I've cheaped out a billion times on strings.
Been wondering about these for awhile, ordered some after watching this. In particular, on a couple of Charvel San Dimas' with 12-16" compound radius fingerboards, it seems that the 19th/20th fret on the high E string only wants to be a pain in the ass and fret out on me. Hopefully this will help.
I have a San Dimas too and am interested as well.
Have your frets looked at by a good tech/ repair person.
Idk if this will fix that! Sounds like you might have a high fret somewhere 😩
Nice video about shims and testes. Sickkk guitar too.
Haha! Thank you! 🙏
Not gonna lie, I subbed because this guy has Chris Jericho vibes.
🤣🤣🤣 I met him once and got a picture with him actually!
@bvanhoosen sweet
Super useful! Thanks!
I've wondered before which end of the compound to go with on my Jackson bridges. Now that I know this... I will try both. I suspect I might prefer the 12 as I do play more rhythms than lead. Thanks for the info!
12 is how the Floyd is usually set out of the box! So if that’s the case, just leave it as is!
Nice one, Brycie. Pretty smart.
Thank you! I thought so too
Enjoyed the vid Bryce.
Believe it or not. Is’t Floyd ever owned is a diver down
VH and l love it. I’ll be watching more👍🎸
Awesome man. Keen to try it out.
Bought the Tremmory on your recommendation, And I loved it
So I give this a go, doesn't look crazy hard to install which is good.
Definitely not hard! And fairly inexpensive as well.
Jackson did use a properly radiused ghoto bridge until people complained it wasn't it a Floyd when they started the compound boards.
That makes sense to me! Everyone wants a Floyd!
@ the gotoh 1996t is better than the 1k or 1500 they normally use and arguably better than the ofr. It isn't like th licensed Jackson bridges they had
Great info Bryce and thanks for this… BTW how much u benching bro 💪?
Awsome chapter. One question. Does a 37 mm fat brass fits an rr24 jackson?
It really depends! On most I use 37mm blocks, but one of my RRs for some reason is only big enough for a 32mm block. Stick a ruler in there and measure if there will be enough space!
@@bvanhoosenwhats a ruler?
I was looking at the saddles on my FR1000. Each saddle is a different thickness.
The Lo pro edge from Ibanez, it’s the baseplate that’s milled with little steps for each saddle. These bridges come stock on production guitars so I’m assuming the bridge has to already match the radius of the neck from the factory. Would you only need shims for aftermarket bridges?
I’ve never owned an Ibanez, so I can’t speak to how those are setup from the factory. The FR1000 will only be set at a 12” radius. So if you have a guitar with a flatter radius, like a Jackson, I would shim it as part of the overall final setup.
would this also be possible on Gotoh GE1996T ?
Yes, but I think that one comes at 14” stock - so it won’t be the same number of shims
I miss my 90’s les paul studio with the black ebony fretboard. That was the easiest playing guitar I’ve ever owned.
Hell yeah! Had one of those back in the day too
@ wanna guess what happened to it ?
@@dananthony6258it got stolen, you had to sell it for a new family, or you traded it for another guitar in which you regretted it after a while?? 🤔
@ nope, the neck snapped off. Lmaoooo 😂😂😂😂 but I’m really still dying inside. 🤟😎🎸
Man, this is solid content! I have a compound radius fretboard on a guitar. I never thought about this. I just measured my Floyd and its set for 12"!
I think i will try this out. Because it does make sense the way you describe it. I just ordered the 16. I think it will make a difference.
Some players may not notice. But ive been at this for 30 years. I can notice small adjustments on any guitar. Maybe thats why that compound radius model never felt right to me?
My Schecter Hellraiser is my #1 and it is a straight 12". Cool idea.
Hell yeah man! Thanks for watching and let me know how you like it!
@bvanhoosen it worked! Feels...smoother now? Hard to describe. I feel like bends above the 12th fret feel better? It's hard to describe. Chords still feel good too further down the neck. So it works both ways. Thanks again for the tip, and keep rocking. 👍
So you put 16 inch radius ?
Yes correct!
What gauge strings do you use for Eb vs D standard?
For D standard, I do 9-50 or 9-52. For Eb, I use 8.5-46. Thick enough for riffing on the bottom, thin enough for the weedly-weedlies on top
@bvanhoosen nice you must use really low tension springs. I've been thinking about trying .9s but I am always afraid I'm gonna break them. Any recommendations on long lasting .9s?
@@AvLGuitar Try Jim Dunlop strings. The wound strings have a thicker core wire and the plain strings have a better tone.
I either use DR strings or the Gary Holt signature VonFrankenstein ones. The Dunlop strings are nice too!
@@tulyar1043 is that all Dunlop strings or just the heavy core?
Bryce for president
Running on my platform of free pizza Fridays in 2028
Thx for this video bro! I think this is helps a lot for picking motion, if the radius is all over the place , you will have a hard time with fast alternate picking 2 way pick slanting.. not 100% sure but I think it will help a lot if ur radius is on point .
If your factory Floyd equipped guitar needs shims then it wasn't built or specs properly. This is only something you need if a dingleberry assembled your guitar.
The stock Floyd only comes at a 12” radius, so pretty much every guitar is a dingleberry guitar 🤷♂️
youre not right though because of what mr vanhoosen told you. Nearly every floyd has some kind of shim
Floyd now makes radius saddles.
They do! Took them long enough lol
And here i was using aluminum foil to get my saddles sitting where I wanted them.😅
I’ve seen that suggested too! I’m just not THAT crafty haha
My rookie year of guitar I would actually re-tie the strings I broke back on to the ball. :p Thank God I have a job now
I do that all the time with the FR bridge! String breaks, so I just slide it on back in and lock 🤣 I like to play this game called “how long can I keep the same strings on here?”
Oh. Youre new. NVM.
Best mod is to get rid of the Floyd
Floyds are good if they are blocked off
🤣🤣 where’s the fun in that though?
Well how can you play like Eddie Van Halen without the Floyd?
@@bvanhoosen didnt eddie split it down the middle and only had downward trem action?
@@dionr1168 didnt eddie split it down the middle and only had downward trem action?
I made my own 30 years ago.
Damn, finally a perk of the modern age! 😅