It's my fav bridge. The Gotoh posts are actually locking too! Over time and sometimes right out of the box even the OFR posts have some play in them. The 1996t is the best kept secret for floating bridge players
every set of floyd posts ive ever had produced play. even the multiple sets of originals ive had had at least some play. love the gotoh and all its extra features
@@comment.highlighted Just keep in mind, the Gotoh posts are slightly bigger and aren't usually a drop in replacement without drilling out the post holes a little. (EDIT: you can still use the FR posts in most situations though. You don't HAVE to use the better Gotoh ones)
Great video. I replaced my Schecter Banshee Elite Floyd Rose by the Gotoh 1996t, including I made the holes bigger & a little deeper to fit the adjustable studs posts. The bronze block gave me more sustain and clarity, but you must deal with the height of the block that is larger than the Floyd rose (here you must either remove the back cover or modify it...). The other key aspect is glued the posts to the wood holes avoiding displacements, fot that I used Suprabond contact glue (transparent), to finally leave them well placed with no movements, no displacements and no problems to adjust. Finally I was convinced to replace it because I saw better metal machining of the whole steel pieces in the Gotoh, better done and finished, and by the locking posts capability, that turns more stable the tuning. Final tip for stability of tuning: lubricate the Block's insert holes of the springs, the other contact point of the spring to the Claw and the heads of the screws in contact with the steel plate of the claw (all are friction points), light oil for moving parts of machines or small gears works great.
I've been looking into the differences between the two for a good while now. It's good to see one of my favorite UA-camr's put it into terms I can understand.
I’ve got a Gotoh on my Jackson DKR MIJ. It’s easily comparable to an OFR from an engineering/craftsmanship perspective, in my opinion anyway. It stays in tune and I’ve had zero issues. Intonation is on point too. I play in Eb and I barely had to make any adjustments from stock. One thing I’ve noticed is that I actually prefer the Gotoh for palm muting etc. It doesn’t make any difference in tone, it just seems to be slightly more comfortable on my right hand. Overall, I actually prefer the Gotoh, and for the price, it’s sort of insane how cheap it is given the quality.
On the downside, the "tail" is taller than the Floyd. Where the Gotoh really wins out is the grub screw arm tensioner and the smooth beveled saddle edges. The only bridge I prefer in terms of saddle design is the Ibanez Edge Pro.* If Gotoh were to bring out a low profile version of the GE1996T, I'd be first in line. *The one that tried to dodge Floyd Rose patents and reportedly got Ibanez sued.
In my opinion, the studs/posts contribute to tuning stability way more than just the tremolo bridge. If your guitar has coarse threaded posts and you can wiggle them when you remove the bridge, that directly translates to tuning issues. The studs/posts that come with higher end tremolos like OFR and Gotoh have fine threaded posts that are very solid. Worth looking into replacing those when you do the tremolo upgrade. Having said that, I much prefer the Gotoh over OFR in nearly every aspect. Outstanding units.
I have been looking at cheaper V's with the crappy Floyd Rose with the intention of upgrading to a gohtoh. It is like this channel is geared towards my desires haha. I love your older lesson videos.
I don't like Gotoh. EVERY TIME I tried them I snapped the bar right out! I love the locking system of the Floyd's bar, its super reliable. I love Floyds. Now that being said, the actual best bridge I ever had was an Ibanez Edge Zero II. Man that thing was UNREAL! Extremely consistent! The bar had a little plastic ring under the locking screw that made it have ZERO wabbling no matter what! I regret selling that guitar, it was an absolute work horse of massive sound! It was an Ibanez RG 350MZ, black with a maple scale and a Seymour Duncan SH6. KILLER sound! I was an idiot and sold it. I'll get another one eventually!
And Ibanez puts Edge Zero II on relatively affordable guitars. Other manufacturers put terrible Floyd Rose Special in guitars priced up to 1000$. So respect to Ibanez for this. By the way, Edge Pro tremolo was designed and produced by Gotoh for Ibanez, so it's possible that Edge Zero also was designed by Gotoh.
My 'go to' guitar in the studio for the last 30+ years is my Sadowsky NYC S Style, which cam fitted with the Gotoh 1088 bridge - impeccable piece of work. They stopped making so Roger switched to the Gotoh 510, altho he mentioned that here is still a version of the 1088 available, but it is inferior to the one he used to use. I'm upgrading a couple of guitars right now and will be going for all Gotoh hardware - that's after long discussions with my guitar tech and exploring many options out there. I should mention I don't use the whammy bar quite the way you just demonstrated! 😅Good luck with the upgrade!
Dude yes! I needed this video. I am looking to order the Gotoh for my EVH wolfgang standard. The FR special is trash, and shame on any companies using it.
I replaced the Floyd rose 1000 on my LTD Buz 7 with a gotoh 1996t and added the locking studs too. It’s pretty much impossible to knock that guitar out of tune. The gotoh trem just feels way better overall, the arm feels so much better with zero play, it’s more comfortable under my palm. It takes everything good about the original Floyd and refines it and fixes the flaws of the original Floyd. For anyone doubting the quality of the gotoh unit, gotoh has been manufacturing the Edge and Lo Pro Edge for Ibanez for decades and those are considered some if the best locking trems ever made.
Guitars, Gotoh and Greencheeks, subbed... Your little buds are so well behaved, mine used to climb all over my guitars and try to eat the strings when I played, either that or started angry bobbing at my hand as it moved up and down...
My 2019 Jackson Super Strat and it's sounds kick-ass ! The license Floyd Rose works great, it's setup great and does its job great ! If I ever need to replace it with a Gotoh I will do so based on your video !
Whyyyy, whyyyy I didn't see this video two weeks earlier!!? I swapped the Lo-trs II trem on my 2002 Ibanez RGT42 with 1996t Gotoh, but I did it the hard way - with half an hour tunning. This trick with the wooden block is very very neat!
I had a 1996t back in the late 2000s. I do not know how good they continue to be, but it was a winner back then. Really stable and a nice feel, plus it had a quality engineering look to it. It was for an Allparts neck and body super strat build. That was when I found out that chucking a bunch of good parts together does not always add up to a good guitar. They still need top notch fret work, assembly and set up to be really great. I was quite impressed with an Ibanez edge trem on a RG550 Genesis I had for a week or so. Best thing about the guitar. Pity it was let down by a bunch of other stuff that felt cheap and was faulty etc. The reason I sold though was I could not get on with the super skinny and flat neck profile - I prefer the San Dimas compound radius or some of the Dinky stuff, or a good Explorer.
I have the 1996T Gotoh on 2 of my guitars and love it..I paid $120 with shipping here in the USA. 2 for the price of 1 of the Floyd made in Germany models.
This is why I'm pissed I didn't find this sooner, I almost just ordered an OFR to replace a special that (as usual) stripped a saddle after probably the 20th string change
I never tried the Gotoh until I got a MIJ Strat that had one. MUCH better than any of my Floyds! The saddles are a bit rounded that make it more comfortable on your right hand, and the fine tuners are angled back in a way that they're completely out of your way...no accidentally hitting them. They're also much smoother. Now I'm in the process of replacing all my Floyded guitars with the Gotoh. ;-)
Down the road usually the screw in arm does get sloppy. The trem socket is very replaceable tho. On my 90,s Charvel/Jackson, I replaced the screw in socket with a standard socket and Floyd arm. Not hard to switch. Lambchopper I love your channel. You are one of the best around at thrashing out the stuff from the Tampa Bay bands. Thanks!! Keith.
I just installed the new Schaller Lockmeister, an exceptional piece of hardware with radiused saddles and radiused nut! Floyd Rose is now offering radiused saddle upgrades!
Enjoy your videos keep it up! 👍 Quick question please, can you suggest a pedal or 2 to use with my little Marshall 30w to get a little closer to an Iron Maiden tone? Much appreciated Thanks
Gotoh stuff is mad. I have an Ibanez GRX70QA that I bought just over 5 years ago for $370 brand new. The stock tuners and bridge were ok but they weren't the best. I upgraded to GOTOH locking tuners and bridge and the change in tuning stability and sustain is absolutely awesome. I tune my guitar by ear and tune it a specific way and it doesn't really go out of tune. Just recently I went from Sydney to Brisbane for 3 weeks and took my Ibanez and MkIV with me and wasn't able to play until the second last day so the guitar just sat in the case the whole time. When I finally did play it the guitar was almost perfectly in tune. A slight adjustment on the B ang G string and that was it. I very rarely have to tune it any other time. Just plug in and go. It's my number one guitar and total cost for mods and a setup plus the purchase price of the guitar is less than $1000. Gotoh is Aok in my book 👍
I actually have one of these in the box. I bought a vintage fender HM strat thinking I’d upgrade the old Floyd but the setup is so perfect on the guitar and it just works so nice I don’t want to mess with it
To supplement -> 1) There are various models that have different radii. Also, a lot of the floyds just shim out to get their radii. Manufacturers can OEM specs of various string widths and radii. 2) String tuning isnt completely dependent on the bridge. Its hard to objectively keep this test scientific; but in general, floyd rose original and gotoh 1996t are extremely comparable in quality and should never ever have any tuning disparity between the two. If anything, the gotoh has locking studs, so it technically should be more stable; though In practice it kinda doesnt work out that way (e.g. normal studs that arent wobbly are just fine; the locking portion is basically irrelevant, but it can matter in very very very minor niche circumstances) 3) that bushing on the gotoh is actually adjustable; some people like floppy trem arms, some people like tight ones. The OFR/schaller ones have that screw down ferrule thats ... less easy to dial in how you want. Its either tight or loose; you cant really have it in the middle there lol. Thats a big reason I prefer gotohs myself. Spec wise, a lot of people dont really understand what makes a floyd rose 1000 cheaper, or why an OFR/schaller is expensive. A lot of it is obviously WHERE its manufactured. Floyd rose 1000's are made in korea a lot cheaper than the american and german counterparts. Gotohs are made in japan and have a controlled cost comparatively. But spec wise, gotohs and OFR's have a fully hardened steel plate; the whole body is just hardened steel with steel saddles. On stuff like floyd rose 1000's, floyd specials, more of your cheaper imports you will have edge hardened plates (This is not really a *huge* issue ,but it is just less precise and more fast for manufacturing purposes and costs), and a lot of the saddles will be just pot metal on the real cheapo ones. 1000s are better overall; steel saddles, proper hardware, just made in korea more or less. At the end of the day, that "cheap gotoh" is used on EXTREMELY high end guitars from Suhr and Ernie Ball. Its almost functionally identical, usually just stamping and radius changes; though some have different string spacing (ebmm evh for example is more narrow than any you can buy off the shelf). If its good enough for eddie van halen, john petrucci, guthrie govan, steve lukather, steve morse, etc etc etc... its good enough for you (colloquially speaking here haha). Trems identical to OFR in quality, performance, and materials -> - TRS-101 (this one can be a REAL steal). NOT to be confused with ANY of the other TRS variants; especially ibanez; though ibanez does use 101's as well. - Ping OFR ; can be found real cheap sometimes - Schaller Germany has zinc plate but fully hardened pivots; much heavier than OFR's but equal in performance. .. but just get a 1996T - Obviously the OFR in general - Ibanez edge / lo pro are superior to OFR's in every way - Jackson JT580 - Takeuchi bridges (trs pro variants; they share model numbers with the cheaper ones, so make sure the block says "takeuchi" on it) These are also incredibly cheap and equal to OFR's. Specifically stay away from the "LO-TRS". This is a garbage trem. Pragmatically speaking, theres no real reason to change an ofr for a gotoh or vice versa. That list I gave is another bunch that shouldnt really be swapped unless specifically damaged somehow; you wont get a "better guitar" out of it. Though, your money and life so do what you will lol.
Awesome, thanks for this video, i have a couple of early 2000’s japanese jackson’s with floyd rose specials and could never justify paying the price for an original, these look really cool and i’m tempted to check them out now.
Just be aware that the Gotoh might not be a drop in replacement. The baseplate is a touch larger than a Floyd and the locking bolts extend further back too. Another choice is the Schaller Lockmeister. Generally more expensive than the GE1996T, but it's essentially the Floyd Original without Floyd's cut and distribution fees on top.
I modified my JS32 Dinky with a 1996t bridge and I'm happy with the result. The vibrato bar is much sturdier and the tuning stability is improved compared to the Jackson licensed FR that comes stock.
@@tfbytslols8426 Tuning stability and sustain are both noticeably better. Also the vibrato arm is sturdier. I did have to re-rout the posts to make it work and I lost some room to pull up on the bar. I can still bend notes up about 3 half steps.
I had a JS240PSCA and LOVED the (original?) Edge bridge. Most of the other Ibanez variants I've tried have been awful though. The Edge Zero ii in my axion was probably the worst floating trem I've ever used. I put it below a FR special it was so bad.
@@NathanMichalik yep, it needs to be one of the top line models, of which there have been quite a few over the years. Edge, Edge Pro, Edge Zero, etc. The lesser ones vary a lot in quality. It's worth doing the research.
That bar design is worse imo. Those little plastic bushings always wear out over time and they’re ridiculously overpriced to replace. In my Edge Lo Pro 7 the arm holder assembly itself kept coming loose and the whole bar would rattle. I would always have to remove the bridge and tighten the nut on the bottom side. I did that like four times before I finally put loctite on the nut and it hasn’t budged since. Haven’t tried the Gotoh yet, but I have the FU Tone push in arm on my Floyd which seems to be the same design and it’s been rock solid so far.
@@GarryParkerthe bushings last forever if you don’t remove the bar often. It’s removing and reinstalling the arm that wears them out on those edge trems.
I finally tried one on my MJ Dinky after only using Floyd Rose in the past. It's definitely a more comfortable bridge. The saddles have a slope that make them slightly more comfortable for palm muting. It almost feels more like and Ibanez Edge to me. But definitely just as good, if not better than OFR. (Also, took me a year before I realized the trem arm was threaded so it could be screwed in to lower the profile.)
Thanks heaps for this video mate. I been looking at replacing a battered Edge 3 but as you said, a FR O is way overpriced here in Oz. The gotoh looks beautiful and judging from your vid, performs just as well. Im sold brother. Cheers from the sunny coast! 🍻
I had to change the sting lock bolts to shorter ones. I don't love the bar itself, but it's a good unit. smooth. I had to change the block as well to fit my axe
That’s the one issue I’ve ran into with the gotoh trems. They actually use the same string lock screws as the Ibanez original edge trem. They’re super long and don’t fit a lot of Floyd routes. As you said though it’s a simple fix.
I'd make sure you swap out the posts for the best quality Floyd ones available, (assuming they're cheap nasty ones) if you're not going to use the Gotoh ones. Otherwise the Gotoh will destroy the soft metal ones, and won't stay in tune. I love my Gotoh GE1996T, which came standard on my Japanese Fender Stratocaster, but it's a 10 year old guitar that's been played heavily as far as I can tell, so at some point I'll replace it. All Floyd style bridges wear out. Luckily the Gotoh is so reasonably priced and easy to swap out.
This video exactly demonstrates why I love the gotoh...I am happy with floyd 1000 and German made series, but I will spend $250+ USD from FU Tone to do all the titanium/brass upgrades that I like for more mass and sustain. The gotoh nails it right out of the box!
The Gotoh is massively underappreciated but I worry that more people buying them will increase the price. I genuinely cannot fault this trem, after heaps of abuse and not being able to play the guitar for a couple weeks being away from home I picked it up, pushed the trem all the way down and up a few times to make sure nothing is sticking and checked the tuning. Didn't have to touch any of the fine tuners, played for an hour on it and checked again still perfect. I need to change the strings at this point and all the fine tuners are still bang in the middle of their adustment because it's so stable. The Gotoh seriously feels like it is straight up just an improved and modernised floyd rose, all the strengths of the original with some nice upgrades.
I'm installing one on my Schecter Damien 6 Platinum FR atm. Even with the stock studs, it seems like a perfect fit, but I will be installing the Gotoh Stud Locks as soon as possible. So far, I've only installed shortened saddle screws.
Oh man thanks for this! I've got 2 or 3 guitars with the bloody zinc saddles and I'm sick of them stripping. This is a bargain for the quality, You sold me!
The Gotoh is a bit brighter/thinner than the Floyd and a touch smoother in function. Just by a bit though. I wanted to hear that difference instead of tuning stability. Good video
Thanks for the reminder, lol. I actually have a Special in my LTD I've been looking into replacing with a Gotoh, but kinda forgot about it over time. Some nice tips about setting it up too. I keep it blocked, so I don't know a lot about floating it properly. Also, nice blocks with the little handle. I use a bunch of coins taped together and it does the job, but was thinking something that fills the space more would make it more solid.
For me it's the Schaller Original (1302). Smaller footprint fits more easily into 90s-00s import (mainly MIJ) guitars like Jacksons, LTDs, and BC Riches with recessed routes. The 1302s also have replaceable knife edges. The Lockmeister is closer to the OFR in measurements, being longer and narrower than the 1302. So, if you detune and want to do full pull ups with the saddles fully backward on a recessed trem guitar, the Lockmeister and OFR may not be the best choice. That said, the OFR tends to be offered in more finishes than the Schaller. Many licensed bridges like the Jackson 580/590LP from the 90s and early 00s had Allen key clamps just behind the saddles and not behind the baseplate. This made them more like the discontinued Floyd Rose Pro and meant they could fit in a smaller bridge route. It is a design that should be brought back on better quality bridges. Long saddle bolts do not make sense on recessed guitars. Additionally, many import guitars will have a shallower nut shelf. A Floyd Rose R8 nut (.225") works best here. Schaller does not make an R8 nut (usually R2-R3), but the Floyd Rose R8 should work with a Schaller bridge. If the import locking nut holds tune and the pads are not worn, it should suffice without replacing it. As far as why many import guitars have terrible bridges, it is to keep costs down. Usually the pickups (often two conductor), hardware (zinc), and neck construction (bolt on) are the first things to see downgrades. Licensed bridges are usually made of zinc where hardened steel should be, and the sustain blocks are often made of iron or zinc. They are not heavy enough to do flutter bar tricks. Even the screws are often skinnier and usually in metric to save cost on materials. I find Schaller replacement bridges can usually be swapped in no problem with the spring claw, springs, studs and posts, and sometimes the import nut being retained. The increased tone from thicker screws isn't worth redrilling larger holes in the wood in my opinion. Cheaper bodies also tend to be made of softer poplar, alder, and basswood. These woods are often used when solid colors like gloss black are used and elaborate stains and figured tops are not necessary. I am not a tone wood guy so the wood makes little difference to me, but more easily sourced woods tend to be cheaper. Edit: My advice is to avoid the big sustain block craze. They make the bar stiff and harder to move. Big blocks also permit less movement within the bodies of thin guitars. And you cannot replace the spring claw plate if the sustain block protrudes outside the body. I always go with the smallest block available. Metal needs a tight low end anyway and adding on more sustain block mass just adds additional low end that has to be rolled off in post. Switching to an Alnico 5 in place of a ceramic pickup in the bridge will warm things up and add a bit more low end depending upon the pickup voicing. EMG 85s, Seymour Duncan Custom 5s, and DiMarzio Tone Zones are good choices for a warmer, thicker tone. Additionally, the 24 Volt Mod for EMG thickens the classic designs like the 81 up quite well. However, if you have accessories like an EXG control, only 18 volts is recommended. EMG HZ pickups are good choices for those seeking more diverse wiring options (series/split/parallel/out of phase). Active EMGs require special models or accessories for these wiring variations.
You got to check out a Vega trem! It’s a replacement for a 6 screw vintage trem but it floats. Then you have to use a guitar nut buster to lock the strings past the nut. Two expensive pieces of gear but I think it’s the most radical trem that holds the best tuning, only if used with a guitar nut buster locking device. I wouldn’t mind trying a gotoh trem on something. The thing is don’t like about Floyd rose style trems is you need to use shims to adjust action on individuals strings.
Great video. I’ve changed over to Gotoh on a couple of my guitars. Can you tell me how you get such an amazing recording tone on UA-cam? It was so clear and in perfect stereo. Do you have a paid UA-cam membership that gives you lower compression?
Nothing like that, I played through neural dsp Fortin nameless on a basic qt screen record to show the tuner. I had a slight stereo ambience in the preset but nothing amazing. The presets can be downloaded in the description if you have the software
Okie dokie, love the video, straight to the point and no dicken about, ( fellow ozzy here ) I’m curious as to any opinions ( other than tone differences between metals ) about the original Floyd vs Gotoh vs Titanium Floyd copy, made in Japan to exact measurements, the titanium Version I was able to buy for a little more than the Gotoh but it came in a full kit, including locking nut, arm, string tree, posts, block, claw and springs, everything titanium except the block and springs. I haven’t fitted it yet but I am interested in genuine opinions as only 2 of my collection are floating bridges so I don’t have a lot of experience.
Nice video! I've got two Gotoh trems and a few guitars with Ibanez Edge variations. I got an ESP E-II and am already discontent with the Floyd on that in comparison to the ergonomics of the Gotoh or Edge bridges.
The 1996t is probably my second fav trem right under Ibanez's Edge pro. Japanese builders just kind of figured out how to make the best trems just shy of the any of the OFR/german made stuff.
I got myself some Schaller original saddles for my floyd rose special. Replacing the whole thing is too much for me, but even this change meant no more canals forming because of overtightening the screws and more steady sound when doing squeals.
I have a dead MIJ Jackson for decades, just because I could not find a replacement for the broken "licensed" Floyd Rose... I will look for a Gotoh that fits perfectly. Sometime ago I could not find anything that fits in the cavity. All the tremolos had a different shape and size...
I put a little loc-tite on my posts so they don’t move without an Allen key. There’s no play after you do that. I saw no point to cause possible damage to my guitar replacing the pins and inserts. I haven’t measured the inserts but the thread is different and I think the hole needs to be slightly bigger to fit
@@LambChopper678 Hey bud thanks for the reply and all your killer advice and all the videos you do they are inspiring informative and you are definitely tops in my book brother🤟🏻Rock on
Have you ever tried the DualRocker tremolo system before? Kind of a mix between a Kahler and a Floyd Rose. They are pretty hard to find but i love that you can down tune a whole step without unlocking the nut. Would be great if anyone has used these and have tips on setting them up easily.
I tried upgrading the zinc parts on the Special that came with my EVH Wolfgang Standard. What a huge mistake. I put it all back together and now it won't return to pitch or anything. I'll be getting a 1996 sometime down the road. In the states, it's quite a bit cheaper than an FR 1000 and half the price of an Original. Unlike a lot of people, I actually like the stock screw mechanism on the original FR arm, but I'll be fine with the 1996.
Just save yourself the time and money and get a real Floyd tbh. I've had all three, special, gotoh and now the original and nothing beats the real Floyd's honestly.
The Gotoh 1996 is my absolute favourite trem. Any other FR style that needs replacing will become a Gotoh. They're very well priced, the quality is excellent, kits are very complete, and just the fact they can be ordered with different lengths of (brass) block, means it's the least hassle. And they're available everywhere rather than ordering every single screw from Floyd Rose in the US - which makes it ridiculously expensive.
My just came friday. I ordered gold one with one emg 81 gold locking gotoh tuner gold and I'm gonna make an order in custom shop for guitar with the same V shape like urs but with one pickup. With golden lines. I like the gotoh they are really good made.
Those are beautiful bridges, would love to try one some day. I have an Ibanez with the Edge Lo Pro which is great but a little worn after 25+ years of use. Love the Original Floyd on my ESP as well. I replaced the arm with the FU Tone push in assembly and it’s perfect, I’ve been using it for a few months and it still has zero play.
Its alot better than a lo pro, and i LOVE the lo pro. Its alot more stable, and you can feel its made out of stiffer steel. I prefer the full movement of the bar on a lo pro, but is what it is
@@quix99 Good to know. One of my biggest issues with the Lo Pro is the arm holder design. It would always come loose and eventually I had to put loctite on the nut on the bottom side of the bridge. It's great now but those plastic bushings still wear out periodically and need to be replaced. The grub screw design is way superior. If I ever replace that bridge I'll likely get the Gotoh 7-string version.
Hey Lamb, Great Video, what's your opinion on a Tone Difference comparison between a Chrome Finish and a Black Finish, my Ears tell me the Chrome Finish Sounds more Articulate, with better Sustain, and overall Tone?
I'm looking at buying my first KV2 and I wish so badly they made a KV2T with the normal KV2 inlays and headstock. Like they did with the RR1T. The only real option is to get a Mustaine KV1 if you want a fixed bridge in that style. And they're going for 5k-10k 😢
It's my fav bridge. The Gotoh posts are actually locking too! Over time and sometimes right out of the box even the OFR posts have some play in them. The 1996t is the best kept secret for floating bridge players
Yes! The only problem is they are super big so sometimes theres not enough meat on the guitar to drill out to fit the stud anchors
every set of floyd posts ive ever had produced play. even the multiple sets of originals ive had had at least some play. love the gotoh and all its extra features
Locking posts! That just confirmed my upgrade. Thank you 🙂
@@bc454irocz89Oh, great info. I will check to make sure before I order 🙂
@@comment.highlighted Just keep in mind, the Gotoh posts are slightly bigger and aren't usually a drop in replacement without drilling out the post holes a little. (EDIT: you can still use the FR posts in most situations though. You don't HAVE to use the better Gotoh ones)
Great video. I replaced my Schecter Banshee Elite Floyd Rose by the Gotoh 1996t, including I made the holes bigger & a little deeper to fit the adjustable studs posts. The bronze block gave me more sustain and clarity, but you must deal with the height of the block that is larger than the Floyd rose (here you must either remove the back cover or modify it...). The other key aspect is glued the posts to the wood holes avoiding displacements, fot that I used Suprabond contact glue (transparent), to finally leave them well placed with no movements, no displacements and no problems to adjust. Finally I was convinced to replace it because I saw better metal machining of the whole steel pieces in the Gotoh, better done and finished, and by the locking posts capability, that turns more stable the tuning. Final tip for stability of tuning: lubricate the Block's insert holes of the springs, the other contact point of the spring to the Claw and the heads of the screws in contact with the steel plate of the claw (all are friction points), light oil for moving parts of machines or small gears works great.
I've been looking into the differences between the two for a good while now. It's good to see one of my favorite UA-camr's put it into terms I can understand.
Can't really go wrong with anything made by Gotoh. It's gonna be well engineered, and reasonably affordable. The standard.
I’ve got a Gotoh on my Jackson DKR MIJ. It’s easily comparable to an OFR from an engineering/craftsmanship perspective, in my opinion anyway. It stays in tune and I’ve had zero issues. Intonation is on point too. I play in Eb and I barely had to make any adjustments from stock. One thing I’ve noticed is that I actually prefer the Gotoh for palm muting etc. It doesn’t make any difference in tone, it just seems to be slightly more comfortable on my right hand. Overall, I actually prefer the Gotoh, and for the price, it’s sort of insane how cheap it is given the quality.
is it good for drop d?
@@eben7828yes, the D tuna works better on this too since the screws are longer
Love these videos you’re doing nowadays. Been subbed for yeeears and cool to see you making these no BS videos like a mate telling a mate
Thanks mate, really appreciate it
The 1996t is an absolute savior in the guitar world, Gotoh really hit a home run with them. I’ve installed and worked on a few and they are great.
I love that the Gotoh fine tuners are angled away from the bridge so you can palm mute without worrying about accidentally moving the fine tuners.
On the downside, the "tail" is taller than the Floyd.
Where the Gotoh really wins out is the grub screw arm tensioner and the smooth beveled saddle edges.
The only bridge I prefer in terms of saddle design is the Ibanez Edge Pro.*
If Gotoh were to bring out a low profile version of the GE1996T, I'd be first in line.
*The one that tried to dodge Floyd Rose patents and reportedly got Ibanez sued.
I was a Floyd guy for years until I played a gotoh 1996 in a charvel and it honestly blew me away
I’m replacing the tree on my JS32 so I’m very glad you made this video AND I ran across it. It was very informative.🤘🏻
Love that you added those specs sheets. Thanks so much!
Man, absolutely killer whammy bar solo!
In my opinion, the studs/posts contribute to tuning stability way more than just the tremolo bridge. If your guitar has coarse threaded posts and you can wiggle them when you remove the bridge, that directly translates to tuning issues. The studs/posts that come with higher end tremolos like OFR and Gotoh have fine threaded posts that are very solid. Worth looking into replacing those when you do the tremolo upgrade. Having said that, I much prefer the Gotoh over OFR in nearly every aspect. Outstanding units.
I threw one of these on my Jackson dk2x and it is just such a pleasure to play now.
your a legend Lamb.
I have been looking at cheaper V's with the crappy Floyd Rose with the intention of upgrading to a gohtoh. It is like this channel is geared towards my desires haha. I love your older lesson videos.
I don't like Gotoh.
EVERY TIME I tried them I snapped the bar right out!
I love the locking system of the Floyd's bar, its super reliable. I love Floyds.
Now that being said, the actual best bridge I ever had was an Ibanez Edge Zero II.
Man that thing was UNREAL!
Extremely consistent! The bar had a little plastic ring under the locking screw that made it have ZERO wabbling no matter what!
I regret selling that guitar, it was an absolute work horse of massive sound!
It was an Ibanez RG 350MZ, black with a maple scale and a Seymour Duncan SH6.
KILLER sound! I was an idiot and sold it. I'll get another one eventually!
And Ibanez puts Edge Zero II on relatively affordable guitars. Other manufacturers put terrible Floyd Rose Special in guitars priced up to 1000$. So respect to Ibanez for this. By the way, Edge Pro tremolo was designed and produced by Gotoh for Ibanez, so it's possible that Edge Zero also was designed by Gotoh.
I Had Gotoh Floyd in my Ernie Ball/Music Man Luke for 28 years...was still working well! Replaced it to a new one when the guitar was overhauled🙂
My 'go to' guitar in the studio for the last 30+ years is my Sadowsky NYC S Style, which cam fitted with the Gotoh 1088 bridge - impeccable piece of work. They stopped making so Roger switched to the Gotoh 510, altho he mentioned that here is still a version of the 1088 available, but it is inferior to the one he used to use. I'm upgrading a couple of guitars right now and will be going for all Gotoh hardware - that's after long discussions with my guitar tech and exploring many options out there. I should mention I don't use the whammy bar quite the way you just demonstrated! 😅Good luck with the upgrade!
2:55 SLAYER!!!!!
Dude yes! I needed this video. I am looking to order the Gotoh for my EVH wolfgang standard. The FR special is trash, and shame on any companies using it.
The retail price on the FR Special is ridiculous.
The Gotoh is great quality at a very reasonable price.
I replaced the Floyd rose 1000 on my LTD Buz 7 with a gotoh 1996t and added the locking studs too. It’s pretty much impossible to knock that guitar out of tune. The gotoh trem just feels way better overall, the arm feels so much better with zero play, it’s more comfortable under my palm. It takes everything good about the original Floyd and refines it and fixes the flaws of the original Floyd. For anyone doubting the quality of the gotoh unit, gotoh has been manufacturing the Edge and Lo Pro Edge for Ibanez for decades and those are considered some if the best locking trems ever made.
Guitars, Gotoh and Greencheeks, subbed... Your little buds are so well behaved, mine used to climb all over my guitars and try to eat the strings when I played, either that or started angry bobbing at my hand as it moved up and down...
My 2019 Jackson Super Strat and it's sounds kick-ass ! The license Floyd Rose works great, it's setup great and does its job great ! If I ever need to replace it with a Gotoh I will do so based on your video !
Whyyyy, whyyyy I didn't see this video two weeks earlier!!? I swapped the Lo-trs II trem on my 2002 Ibanez RGT42 with 1996t Gotoh, but I did it the hard way - with half an hour tunning. This trick with the wooden block is very very neat!
Some cool old school boards you've got here, man.
I had a 1996t back in the late 2000s. I do not know how good they continue to be, but it was a winner back then. Really stable and a nice feel, plus it had a quality engineering look to it. It was for an Allparts neck and body super strat build. That was when I found out that chucking a bunch of good parts together does not always add up to a good guitar. They still need top notch fret work, assembly and set up to be really great.
I was quite impressed with an Ibanez edge trem on a RG550 Genesis I had for a week or so. Best thing about the guitar. Pity it was let down by a bunch of other stuff that felt cheap and was faulty etc. The reason I sold though was I could not get on with the super skinny and flat neck profile - I prefer the San Dimas compound radius or some of the Dinky stuff, or a good Explorer.
in case you didn't know, Gotoh make the Ibanez Edge.
I have the 1996T Gotoh on 2 of my guitars and love it..I paid $120 with shipping here in the USA. 2 for the price of 1 of the Floyd made in Germany models.
This is why I'm pissed I didn't find this sooner, I almost just ordered an OFR to replace a special that (as usual) stripped a saddle after probably the 20th string change
I never tried the Gotoh until I got a MIJ Strat that had one. MUCH better than any of my Floyds! The saddles are a bit rounded that make it more comfortable on your right hand, and the fine tuners are angled back in a way that they're completely out of your way...no accidentally hitting them. They're also much smoother. Now I'm in the process of replacing all my Floyded guitars with the Gotoh. ;-)
My 80’s BC Rich gunslinger came with the Gotoh. I love it.
Down the road usually the screw in arm does get sloppy. The trem socket is very replaceable tho. On my 90,s Charvel/Jackson, I replaced the screw in socket with a standard socket and Floyd arm. Not hard to switch. Lambchopper I love your channel. You are one of the best around at thrashing out the stuff from the Tampa Bay bands.
Thanks!!
Keith.
Frigging great video!
I just installed the new Schaller Lockmeister, an exceptional piece of hardware with radiused saddles and radiused nut! Floyd Rose is now offering radiused saddle upgrades!
Enjoy your videos keep it up! 👍 Quick question please, can you suggest a pedal or 2 to use with my little Marshall 30w to get a little closer to an Iron Maiden tone? Much appreciated Thanks
Thank you very much, this was very useful since im considering which one to choose
Gotoh stuff is mad. I have an Ibanez GRX70QA that I bought just over 5 years ago for $370 brand new. The stock tuners and bridge were ok but they weren't the best. I upgraded to GOTOH locking tuners and bridge and the change in tuning stability and sustain is absolutely awesome. I tune my guitar by ear and tune it a specific way and it doesn't really go out of tune. Just recently I went from Sydney to Brisbane for 3 weeks and took my Ibanez and MkIV with me and wasn't able to play until the second last day so the guitar just sat in the case the whole time. When I finally did play it the guitar was almost perfectly in tune. A slight adjustment on the B ang G string and that was it. I very rarely have to tune it any other time. Just plug in and go. It's my number one guitar and total cost for mods and a setup plus the purchase price of the guitar is less than $1000. Gotoh is Aok in my book 👍
Gotoh 1996t Tremolo +redbishop MAGIK-ARM whammy bar +Schaller SureClaw + futone spring =Great tremolo combo
I actually have one of these in the box. I bought a vintage fender HM strat thinking I’d upgrade the old Floyd but the setup is so perfect on the guitar and it just works so nice I don’t want to mess with it
The Gotoh 1996 is awesome. I had one on my custom Suhr Modern and it was the best bridge I’d ever played. It fluttered for about 40 seconds!
Preach! Great video. The Gotoh is great.
My Gotoh arrived today. Only option I could find was a 40mm block so I will likely have to swap that out. This video is awesome!
love your Eclectus Parrot mate! Super cute
Great video! Been a fan for a while, man you need to do a mechanix guitar solo lesson video! I cant find one anywhere!
I have the Gotoh in my Ibanez Jem Jr and have another one for my project guitar.
To supplement ->
1) There are various models that have different radii. Also, a lot of the floyds just shim out to get their radii. Manufacturers can OEM specs of various string widths and radii.
2) String tuning isnt completely dependent on the bridge. Its hard to objectively keep this test scientific; but in general, floyd rose original and gotoh 1996t are extremely comparable in quality and should never ever have any tuning disparity between the two. If anything, the gotoh has locking studs, so it technically should be more stable; though In practice it kinda doesnt work out that way (e.g. normal studs that arent wobbly are just fine; the locking portion is basically irrelevant, but it can matter in very very very minor niche circumstances)
3) that bushing on the gotoh is actually adjustable; some people like floppy trem arms, some people like tight ones. The OFR/schaller ones have that screw down ferrule thats ... less easy to dial in how you want. Its either tight or loose; you cant really have it in the middle there lol. Thats a big reason I prefer gotohs myself.
Spec wise, a lot of people dont really understand what makes a floyd rose 1000 cheaper, or why an OFR/schaller is expensive. A lot of it is obviously WHERE its manufactured. Floyd rose 1000's are made in korea a lot cheaper than the american and german counterparts. Gotohs are made in japan and have a controlled cost comparatively. But spec wise, gotohs and OFR's have a fully hardened steel plate; the whole body is just hardened steel with steel saddles. On stuff like floyd rose 1000's, floyd specials, more of your cheaper imports you will have edge hardened plates (This is not really a *huge* issue ,but it is just less precise and more fast for manufacturing purposes and costs), and a lot of the saddles will be just pot metal on the real cheapo ones. 1000s are better overall; steel saddles, proper hardware, just made in korea more or less.
At the end of the day, that "cheap gotoh" is used on EXTREMELY high end guitars from Suhr and Ernie Ball. Its almost functionally identical, usually just stamping and radius changes; though some have different string spacing (ebmm evh for example is more narrow than any you can buy off the shelf). If its good enough for eddie van halen, john petrucci, guthrie govan, steve lukather, steve morse, etc etc etc... its good enough for you (colloquially speaking here haha).
Trems identical to OFR in quality, performance, and materials ->
- TRS-101 (this one can be a REAL steal). NOT to be confused with ANY of the other TRS variants; especially ibanez; though ibanez does use 101's as well.
- Ping OFR ; can be found real cheap sometimes
- Schaller Germany has zinc plate but fully hardened pivots; much heavier than OFR's but equal in performance. .. but just get a 1996T
- Obviously the OFR in general
- Ibanez edge / lo pro are superior to OFR's in every way
- Jackson JT580
- Takeuchi bridges (trs pro variants; they share model numbers with the cheaper ones, so make sure the block says "takeuchi" on it) These are also incredibly cheap and equal to OFR's.
Specifically stay away from the "LO-TRS". This is a garbage trem.
Pragmatically speaking, theres no real reason to change an ofr for a gotoh or vice versa. That list I gave is another bunch that shouldnt really be swapped unless specifically damaged somehow; you wont get a "better guitar" out of it. Though, your money and life so do what you will lol.
Awesome, thanks for this video, i have a couple of early 2000’s japanese jackson’s with floyd rose specials and could never justify paying the price for an original, these look really cool and i’m tempted to check them out now.
Just be aware that the Gotoh might not be a drop in replacement.
The baseplate is a touch larger than a Floyd and the locking bolts extend further back too.
Another choice is the Schaller Lockmeister.
Generally more expensive than the GE1996T, but it's essentially the Floyd Original without Floyd's cut and distribution fees on top.
Didn’t even know there was any other option besides Floyd rose… this looks awesome.
Never regretted any Gotoh product.
This bridge came stock on my Mj socal Charvel
And i love it
I modified my JS32 Dinky with a 1996t bridge and I'm happy with the result. The vibrato bar is much sturdier and the tuning stability is improved compared to the Jackson licensed FR that comes stock.
im planning on doing the same on my js32 dinky as well. How much would you say the tuning stability improved? Enough to justify the upgrade?
@@tfbytslols8426 Tuning stability and sustain are both noticeably better. Also the vibrato arm is sturdier. I did have to re-rout the posts to make it work and I lost some room to pull up on the bar. I can still bend notes up about 3 half steps.
I swear by the Ibanez Edge trems which come with their Premium, Genesis and Prestige guitars. Also made by Gotoh but with an even better bar design.
I had a JS240PSCA and LOVED the (original?) Edge bridge. Most of the other Ibanez variants I've tried have been awful though. The Edge Zero ii in my axion was probably the worst floating trem I've ever used. I put it below a FR special it was so bad.
@@NathanMichalik yep, it needs to be one of the top line models, of which there have been quite a few over the years. Edge, Edge Pro, Edge Zero, etc. The lesser ones vary a lot in quality. It's worth doing the research.
That bar design is worse imo. Those little plastic bushings always wear out over time and they’re ridiculously overpriced to replace. In my Edge Lo Pro 7 the arm holder assembly itself kept coming loose and the whole bar would rattle. I would always have to remove the bridge and tighten the nut on the bottom side. I did that like four times before I finally put loctite on the nut and it hasn’t budged since. Haven’t tried the Gotoh yet, but I have the FU Tone push in arm on my Floyd which seems to be the same design and it’s been rock solid so far.
@@cdsmetalhead99 in my experience the bushes last for ages and the bar always stays exactly where it's put.
@@GarryParkerthe bushings last forever if you don’t remove the bar often. It’s removing and reinstalling the arm that wears them out on those edge trems.
I finally tried one on my MJ Dinky after only using Floyd Rose in the past. It's definitely a more comfortable bridge. The saddles have a slope that make them slightly more comfortable for palm muting. It almost feels more like and Ibanez Edge to me. But definitely just as good, if not better than OFR. (Also, took me a year before I realized the trem arm was threaded so it could be screwed in to lower the profile.)
That Gotoh is similar to a Ibanez lo- pro. I do like that grub screw
I've replaced several cheap Floyd style bridges with the Gotoh over the years. Its my go to for any Floyd routed guitar needing a replacement.
Looks and sounds great! Thanks
Thanks heaps for this video mate. I been looking at replacing a battered Edge 3 but as you said, a FR O is way overpriced here in Oz. The gotoh looks beautiful and judging from your vid, performs just as well. Im sold brother. Cheers from the sunny coast! 🍻
Youll need to drill out the post holes with the gotoh, i cracked my JS32 king v body installing the 96T posts the first time.
Changing the posts (including the threading in the body) makes a huge difference in tuning stability! They get worn too.
I had to change the sting lock bolts to shorter ones. I don't love the bar itself, but it's a good unit. smooth. I had to change the block as well to fit my axe
That’s the one issue I’ve ran into with the gotoh trems. They actually use the same string lock screws as the Ibanez original edge trem. They’re super long and don’t fit a lot of Floyd routes. As you said though it’s a simple fix.
Having one flat edge on the trem is a huge design advantage
I got the 1996t in my RG760 after the 30 year old edge was on its last leg. It's phenomenal.
Cool video mate. I have one too and agree with everything you said. 👌👌
I'd make sure you swap out the posts for the best quality Floyd ones available, (assuming they're cheap nasty ones) if you're not going to use the Gotoh ones. Otherwise the Gotoh will destroy the soft metal ones, and won't stay in tune.
I love my Gotoh GE1996T, which came standard on my Japanese Fender Stratocaster, but it's a 10 year old guitar that's been played heavily as far as I can tell, so at some point I'll replace it. All Floyd style bridges wear out. Luckily the Gotoh is so reasonably priced and easy to swap out.
This video exactly demonstrates why I love the gotoh...I am happy with floyd 1000 and German made series, but I will spend $250+ USD from FU Tone to do all the titanium/brass upgrades that I like for more mass and sustain. The gotoh nails it right out of the box!
The Gotoh is massively underappreciated but I worry that more people buying them will increase the price.
I genuinely cannot fault this trem, after heaps of abuse and not being able to play the guitar for a couple weeks being away from home I picked it up, pushed the trem all the way down and up a few times to make sure nothing is sticking and checked the tuning. Didn't have to touch any of the fine tuners, played for an hour on it and checked again still perfect.
I need to change the strings at this point and all the fine tuners are still bang in the middle of their adustment because it's so stable.
The Gotoh seriously feels like it is straight up just an improved and modernised floyd rose, all the strengths of the original with some nice upgrades.
I'm installing one on my Schecter Damien 6 Platinum FR atm. Even with the stock studs, it seems like a perfect fit, but I will be installing the Gotoh Stud Locks as soon as possible. So far, I've only installed shortened saddle screws.
That Slayer riff at the end 🤩🤟
Oh man thanks for this! I've got 2 or 3 guitars with the bloody zinc saddles and I'm sick of them stripping. This is a bargain for the quality, You sold me!
The Gotoh is a bit brighter/thinner than the Floyd and a touch smoother in function.
Just by a bit though.
I wanted to hear that difference instead of tuning stability.
Good video
Another perk is that the Gotoh retains string height better on pullups due to the shape of the saddles. More range, basically.
I’ve been changing my Floyd Rose Specials and Edge II for Gotoh and are the best investment one can make on that regard
I'm using GE1996t for three years and it's just amazing. Sometimes I don't tune my guitar for 2-3 days because this thing hardly goes out of tune!
Thanks for the reminder, lol. I actually have a Special in my LTD I've been looking into replacing with a Gotoh, but kinda forgot about it over time. Some nice tips about setting it up too. I keep it blocked, so I don't know a lot about floating it properly.
Also, nice blocks with the little handle. I use a bunch of coins taped together and it does the job, but was thinking something that fills the space more would make it more solid.
Could you do a video where you try to recreate tones with the Line6 POD Go? Would be awesome to see you experimenting with it.
For me it's the Schaller Original (1302). Smaller footprint fits more easily into 90s-00s import (mainly MIJ) guitars like Jacksons, LTDs, and BC Riches with recessed routes. The 1302s also have replaceable knife edges.
The Lockmeister is closer to the OFR in measurements, being longer and narrower than the 1302. So, if you detune and want to do full pull ups with the saddles fully backward on a recessed trem guitar, the Lockmeister and OFR may not be the best choice.
That said, the OFR tends to be offered in more finishes than the Schaller.
Many licensed bridges like the Jackson 580/590LP from the 90s and early 00s had Allen key clamps just behind the saddles and not behind the baseplate. This made them more like the discontinued Floyd Rose Pro and meant they could fit in a smaller bridge route. It is a design that should be brought back on better quality bridges. Long saddle bolts do not make sense on recessed guitars.
Additionally, many import guitars will have a shallower nut shelf. A Floyd Rose R8 nut (.225") works best here. Schaller does not make an R8 nut (usually R2-R3), but the Floyd Rose R8 should work with a Schaller bridge. If the import locking nut holds tune and the pads are not worn, it should suffice without replacing it.
As far as why many import guitars have terrible bridges, it is to keep costs down. Usually the pickups (often two conductor), hardware (zinc), and neck construction (bolt on) are the first things to see downgrades. Licensed bridges are usually made of zinc where hardened steel should be, and the sustain blocks are often made of iron or zinc. They are not heavy enough to do flutter bar tricks.
Even the screws are often skinnier and usually in metric to save cost on materials. I find Schaller replacement bridges can usually be swapped in no problem with the spring claw, springs, studs and posts, and sometimes the import nut being retained. The increased tone from thicker screws isn't worth redrilling larger holes in the wood in my opinion.
Cheaper bodies also tend to be made of softer poplar, alder, and basswood. These woods are often used when solid colors like gloss black are used and elaborate stains and figured tops are not necessary. I am not a tone wood guy so the wood makes little difference to me, but more easily sourced woods tend to be cheaper.
Edit: My advice is to avoid the big sustain block craze. They make the bar stiff and harder to move. Big blocks also permit less movement within the bodies of thin guitars. And you cannot replace the spring claw plate if the sustain block protrudes outside the body. I always go with the smallest block available.
Metal needs a tight low end anyway and adding on more sustain block mass just adds additional low end that has to be rolled off in post. Switching to an Alnico 5 in place of a ceramic pickup in the bridge will warm things up and add a bit more low end depending upon the pickup voicing. EMG 85s, Seymour Duncan Custom 5s, and DiMarzio Tone Zones are good choices for a warmer, thicker tone.
Additionally, the 24 Volt Mod for EMG thickens the classic designs like the 81 up quite well. However, if you have accessories like an EXG control, only 18 volts is recommended.
EMG HZ pickups are good choices for those seeking more diverse wiring options (series/split/parallel/out of phase). Active EMGs require special models or accessories for these wiring variations.
You got to check out a Vega trem! It’s a replacement for a 6 screw vintage trem but it floats. Then you have to use a guitar nut buster to lock the strings past the nut. Two expensive pieces of gear but I think it’s the most radical trem that holds the best tuning, only if used with a guitar nut buster locking device. I wouldn’t mind trying a gotoh trem on something. The thing is don’t like about Floyd rose style trems is you need to use shims to adjust action on individuals strings.
Great video. I’ve changed over to Gotoh on a couple of my guitars. Can you tell me how you get such an amazing recording tone on UA-cam? It was so clear and in perfect stereo. Do you have a paid UA-cam membership that gives you lower compression?
Nothing like that, I played through neural dsp Fortin nameless on a basic qt screen record to show the tuner. I had a slight stereo ambience in the preset but nothing amazing. The presets can be downloaded in the description if you have the software
Okie dokie, love the video, straight to the point and no dicken about, ( fellow ozzy here )
I’m curious as to any opinions ( other than tone differences between metals ) about the original Floyd vs Gotoh vs Titanium Floyd copy, made in Japan to exact measurements, the titanium Version I was able to buy for a little more than the Gotoh but it came in a full kit, including locking nut, arm, string tree, posts, block, claw and springs, everything titanium except the block and springs.
I haven’t fitted it yet but I am interested in genuine opinions as only 2 of my collection are floating bridges so I don’t have a lot of experience.
Simply the best and only $119 here in the US! Also you need to replace the studs, the Gotoh ones are special!
Nice video! I've got two Gotoh trems and a few guitars with Ibanez Edge variations. I got an ESP E-II and am already discontent with the Floyd on that in comparison to the ergonomics of the Gotoh or Edge bridges.
FYI the Peavey Wolfgang and MM EVH/Axis use company branded Gotoh tremolos.PV has a Ping version.
another great video, thank you for the presets
The 1996t is probably my second fav trem right under Ibanez's Edge pro. Japanese builders just kind of figured out how to make the best trems just shy of the any of the OFR/german made stuff.
I got myself some Schaller original saddles for my floyd rose special.
Replacing the whole thing is too much for me, but even this change meant no more canals forming because of overtightening the screws and more steady sound when doing squeals.
I have a dead MIJ Jackson for decades, just because I could not find a replacement for the broken "licensed" Floyd Rose...
I will look for a Gotoh that fits perfectly. Sometime ago I could not find anything that fits in the cavity. All the tremolos had a different shape and size...
You really should use the Gotoh stud bushings with the bridge for it to perform 100%. They are bigger/thicker than on a OFR.
Great video. Cheers!
That’s badass I need to change out my FR Special with 1996 then! Should I change the post or leave the original ones in like you did?🤟🏻
I put a little loc-tite on my posts so they don’t move without an Allen key.
There’s no play after you do that. I saw no point to cause possible damage to my guitar replacing the pins and inserts. I haven’t measured the inserts but the thread is different and I think the hole needs to be slightly bigger to fit
@@LambChopper678 Hey bud thanks for the reply and all your killer advice and all the videos you do they are inspiring informative and you are definitely tops in my book brother🤟🏻Rock on
I like this guy
Have you ever tried the DualRocker tremolo system before? Kind of a mix between a Kahler and a Floyd Rose. They are pretty hard to find but i love that you can down tune a whole step without unlocking the nut. Would be great if anyone has used these and have tips on setting them up easily.
I tried upgrading the zinc parts on the Special that came with my EVH Wolfgang Standard. What a huge mistake. I put it all back together and now it won't return to pitch or anything. I'll be getting a 1996 sometime down the road. In the states, it's quite a bit cheaper than an FR 1000 and half the price of an Original. Unlike a lot of people, I actually like the stock screw mechanism on the original FR arm, but I'll be fine with the 1996.
Just save yourself the time and money and get a real Floyd tbh. I've had all three, special, gotoh and now the original and nothing beats the real Floyd's honestly.
@@Mickocarbomb Interesting. What issues did you have with the Gotoh?
The Gotoh 1996 is my absolute favourite trem.
Any other FR style that needs replacing will become a Gotoh.
They're very well priced, the quality is excellent, kits are very complete, and just the fact they can be ordered with different lengths of (brass) block, means it's the least hassle.
And they're available everywhere rather than ordering every single screw from Floyd Rose in the US - which makes it ridiculously expensive.
I have the Gotoh to replace the Sinclair in my ESP. This is the best term I've used, the tuning is super stable too
My just came friday. I ordered gold one with one emg 81 gold locking gotoh tuner gold and I'm gonna make an order in custom shop for guitar with the same V shape like urs but with one pickup. With golden lines. I like the gotoh they are really good made.
You can't go wrong with either a OFR or the 1996T But I do prefer the GOTOH 1996T overall.
Those are beautiful bridges, would love to try one some day. I have an Ibanez with the Edge Lo Pro which is great but a little worn after 25+ years of use. Love the Original Floyd on my ESP as well. I replaced the arm with the FU Tone push in assembly and it’s perfect, I’ve been using it for a few months and it still has zero play.
Its alot better than a lo pro, and i LOVE the lo pro. Its alot more stable, and you can feel its made out of stiffer steel. I prefer the full movement of the bar on a lo pro, but is what it is
@@quix99 Good to know. One of my biggest issues with the Lo Pro is the arm holder design. It would always come loose and eventually I had to put loctite on the nut on the bottom side of the bridge. It's great now but those plastic bushings still wear out periodically and need to be replaced. The grub screw design is way superior. If I ever replace that bridge I'll likely get the Gotoh 7-string version.
Hey Lamb, Great Video, what's your opinion on a Tone Difference comparison between a Chrome Finish and a Black Finish, my Ears tell me the Chrome Finish Sounds more Articulate, with better Sustain, and overall Tone?
I'm looking at buying my first KV2 and I wish so badly they made a KV2T with the normal KV2 inlays and headstock. Like they did with the RR1T.
The only real option is to get a Mustaine KV1 if you want a fixed bridge in that style. And they're going for 5k-10k 😢
Love the pronunciation from Florida here we say gotoe as the pronunciation hoping to get a budget guitar w a floyed soon
Check the Rick Toone tremolo. It’s maybe the most innovative tremolo nowadays.