At 52 years old, having never played a guitar in my life, I decided to build guitars for a hobby. The problems you guys are talking about, I spotted almost immediately and started building my own bridges to solve them. I used T-6 aluminum and brass/copper alloys to get the tonal qualities I was looking for and sought to have every bridge slammed tight to the body when the action was perfect. For 14 years now, everyone who plays my guitars raves about the tone and the resonance they are hearing. In my opinion, the bridge is the single most critical element in guitar tone.
I have a Gretsch Annie that I can't barely play because of sitaring. It drives me nuts. I hate it because I otherwise love the guitar. I've never found a way to cancel it, or even tone it down any.
@@stoneysdead689 it's easy enough to figure out. Just start fretting notes, working your way up the neck - on the offensive string(s). I just had the problem develop on my Fullerton Legacy. Thought the same, but it did it all the way up the neck. So then I thought it was a saddle burr. Nope, I just didn't have the string perfectly centered in the channel of the saddle after a string change.
I recently saw Peter Frampton on Gibson's "The Collection" series, and he had this bridge on his 50s Jr.'s. That's the best endorsement these guys could ever get. It's the first time I have ever seen the bridge. If Frampton loves it, it's good enough for me.
I put a mojo compensated bridge, SD P90, Kluson supreme tuners, tusq XL nut, wiring; cap, and pots on an Epiphone coronet. The guitar stays in tune doesn’t fret out, and plays so well acoustically; screams plugged in.
Try the Wilkenson bridge with moveable saddles for exact intonation. 97 Epi LP Special with aftermarket P90s wound to 50s specs, Gotoh tuners, Wilkenson bridge, bone nut, custom wired with new 250/500 pots, push/pull volume pot for series, Switchcraft output jack & complete setup by the best tech in southern Nevada. As good or better than any Gibson!
@@bradgriffith4231 Sounds a lot like mine ! Except I bought a Sassy bridge from these guys. Very happy with the result. One thing made a lot more difference than you may expect - I sealed the fingerboard with epoxy resin and sanded it for a super smooth finish. I did that for playability, but got a significant improvement in tone as well.
I replaced the Bushings, posts, and Bridge on my Les Junior using Vintage FABER parts, great upgrades, massive difference in sound.I don’t have any issues at all with the intonation, not cheap but well worth it.
This is the comment I was looking for while watching this. The Faber bridge 'wraparound' is the fix and it's been out for quite a while heh... I own two specials and I have it on both, intonation is as close to perfect as you'll get. So honestly I'm not sure what is so different about this bridge they're showing in this video lol
I think the reason Gibson drilled the studs to create a noticable bridge angle is because guitars in the 1950s were strung with heavier strings. There was a bigger ratio between the diameter of the Low E and the high E, so more compensation was needed. The early rock-'n-rollers would buy a set of strings plus one lighter plain string made for banjos, then throw away the low E string from the set. Once Gibson realized that light strings were the new standard for electrics, they reduced this angle. Personally, I like the feel of a "wraptail" bridge because there is nothing in the way of my right palm. Regarding performance, there are fewer moving parts to absorb string vibrations or cause buzzing.
@@feralkid1879 every junior and special between 54 and 60 has the radically offset bridge studs..and yes it was mistake. they are not even close to where they actually need to be.....it was either a mistake or they knew it and no one cared because they were just the bottom of the line student models to begin with.
I love learning about all these cool inventions they’ve made and used for years at Glasier’s. Why on earth doesn’t the entire world know about these modified inventions that they sell to fix issues on certain manufacturer’s guitars?! They could sell their modified parts like hotcakes! Thanks for showing us, Robert!
JR-to8sn You,good sir, are exactly correct. That's the first mod I do to an L.P. No more tuning issues on the greatest guitar man has massed produced. Why doesn't it come out of the box that way amazes me.
@@robertwillett4122 I know, they just have to use a straight edge to the tuner/s and file the D and G on the nut at that angle and you won't get those tuning issues. It's so easy I don't have any idea as to why they don't do that from the factory.
When I was looking for a guitar with P90s, I wound up getting an Epi LP Special. I really like it. Most Junior/Specials and guitars based on them have a wraparound and yeah, intonation is an issue, some were unplayable for me due to that. But I found one that was a dealer edition with the Tune-o-matic bridge and tailpiece Some consider that not a Special for that reason, but it’s intonated correctly and it plays and sounds great. That’s not the only reason I got the guitar, but it is the reason that is somewhat tied to the video. Of course if you have a 50s/60s one, or that’s your plan, then having options for replacements is a good thing.
Jrs have the wrap around bridge, Specials have a separate string stop behind the bridge. I have both. The Wilkenson wrap around bridge with adjustable string saddles is a better bridge & provides adjustment for exact intonation.
@@bradgriffith4231 actually the Specials are double pickup Juniors. They originally had the wrap around, and historically have had the wrap around. Gibson and Epiphone have both made many variations on the the Special, including separate bridge and tailpiece, as well as humbuckers. Some Epi Specials are set necks, some bolt on. But overall, historically, the Special has had the wrap around tailpiece. Go to the Gibson and Epiphone sites, the Specials have wraparound bridges, look at the originals, you’ll see wraparounds. Yes they have made variations and I own one, but mostly theSpecial has had a wraparound tailpiece, not separate bridgeand tailpiece.
@@bradgriffith4231 Originally Specials had the wrap around tailpieces as well, they were two pickup Juniors Gibson and Epiphone have used the “Special” on various guitars over the tears. If it’s a “Special II” it likely has the separate tailpiece and bridge, usually with humbuckers But if it has P 90s, it likely has a wraparound On both Gibson’s and Epiphone’s websites they have Specials with the wraparound
@@DrMattWalton Gibson just did one a few days ago. They went through his collection of Gibson guitars and a couple offenders and he brought up the bridge that uncle Larry gave him said it was great.
Uncle Larry helped me get through Covid. I lost my family a couple months before Covid hit and I was alone through Covid for 19 months and watching his videos brought joy. Thanks, uncle Larry.
I put a hipshot bridge on my LP Special to fix the intonation and it worked just like it should. However, I think it changed the tone slightly. When I had the original wrap around bridge on it the bridge pickup seemed to have more mid bite.
Tom always seems like a dude I'd be happy to spend a week with without knowing him beforehand at all. So humble. And all of this work just to get Gibsons in tune that should have been from the start... Damn straight, totally worth it!!
I just got my Music City Savvy Bridge 2 weeks ago for my 54 Les Paul Reissue. I've had the guitar 30 years and it's never been as in tune and felt as good as it does now.
Me too. I have the dual p90 SG special in cherry red. I hated the lighting bar tailpiece on it. I got the Savvy with their locking studs and I absolutely love it!
I have the same setup on my 22’ LPjr it’s really great. I’ve tried a few others over the years and the only other one I’d recommend is the Faber with the “tone bar “ it does kinda get away from looking traditional but it sounds good and intonates perfectly with no sitaring
The original wraparound bridge on my "54 Les Paul became so worn that it wanted replacement. I bought a Music CitySstud-Finder replacement bridge and it's bloody magic! Its intonation and tone have never been better, and that,saying alot about this already magic guitar.
Even my 2010 Epiphone Junior has the same problem. It have an intunuated bar, but I have to bring the bar ,on the 1's E string, way back.., and there's almost a gap between the bar and the pole. But yes, it right on the dot on the intinuation.
Can you imagine a room with uncle Larry, Joe Glaser, Chip, Leo Fender, Ted McCarty and Freddie Tavares all talking shop. I'd wanna be the fly on the wall.
I looked up Joe Glazer and it said that he was a folk musician and union teacher, who put out many freedom/work related albums and he was born in 1918 and died in 2006. This can't be the same Joe Glazer ??? Can it ???
I love the bridge on my PRS korina "One", it's a huge hunk of metal, and the strings going over the top are recessed so I don't feel them resting my hand on the bridge, has correct intonation too. I don't see an advantage with the Music City bridge compared to PRS version, but for Gibson/Epiphone type guitars a definite improvement.
Just a disclaimer, though, folks, don't expect to have your late 50's early 60's Gibson to magically snap into tune just because you put a music city bridge on. Remember that there's other factors to getting your guitar in tune than just throwing that bridge on.
Yeah, getting a good nut installed, lubricating it with some graphite, and wrapping one wind on top and the rest down from the tuning peg. If you do all that one a Gibson that’s been set up properly, it’s like the best intonated and sounding guitar you’ll ever own
I hate be snarky, but from here, is sure looks as though that prototype Gretsch bridge is installed upside-down (relative to the rounded mounting-bosses)... If at 22:43 you compare the intonation-points for the 4th (D) string vs. the 3rd (G) string, the 3rd looks like it's farther forward (towards the neck). You'd need to have the threaded rod upside-down, to get the 3rd-string roller back behind the 4th-string roller - but I assume you'd still want the mounting-bosses installed, hemi-spherical side(s) 'up'. Or, is it just the angle at which it's being photographed?
I have the same problem with studs and tilt bridge on my PRS McCarty from 1995 ( Prerun No. 3) . Just ordered the Standard locking Studs. Thanks guys for this invention
100% improvement. I bought a Sassy bridge for an Epiphone entry-level LP (actually more like a Melody Maker) which I bought as a project guitar. Gretsch P90s, everything modded and improved, but the Sassy bridge made all the difference. I fully endorse what these dudes are saying. No more ‘sitar’ tones on strings 1 & 2, perfect intonation. Great work guys.
Tell Tom I bought a 65 melody maker deluxe... around the same time.... pedals I use 2 beef it up.. ...donner reverb square..cheap...rowin plexion... and tomsline plexion... it at same time.. demonfx ts ii red.. azor reverb. All super cheap...my amp....1969 laney lc.16... 1x12 origina fane speaker 1 reverb... one reverb /one overdrive/or distortion...part of my family from ohio....dream sg 1964 special.....next pedal moen 2010ish... shaky jimi.....cheap. ...live 3hr..left of Memphis
Glad to hear the word ‘sitaring’. I first experienced it on brand new Epiphone LP standard with a wobbly nut (unglued and basically unfitted, sitting on an uneven mixture of paint and poly). I cured it by doing their job for them (watched some videos, cut a slot and fitted it properly) even though I was a beginner guitarist at the time. Next time I came across it was with a trapeze tailpiece that kept singing when everyone else had stopped (on a Vox Bobcat)! Cured it with some cloth across the strings between the tailpiece and bridge. Sitaring is a curse, and it reflects badly on mass manufacture and their approach to QA.
Thank you Robert, this video needed to be made b/c when I bought my MCB (not the bridge in this video) there were limited videos available and were not as in-depth as this. However by watching the videos MCB had at the time it lead me to the bridge I need which is called The Savvy. According to the MCB website, The Savvy is for Modern guitars with slight offset or for bridges with Parallel studs and for guitar years ’61 to present. So I bought it for my 2011 Gibson Melody Maker, it’s the guitar that comes with a single, single coil pickup. However, I have yet to install it b/c I am also adding a Lollar Melody Maker P90 pickup and need to make my pickup route bigger to accommodate the Lollar and get a new pickguard made. Please note*** Not sure if I missed in your video but this video is talking about the MCB bridge for guitars with severe offset which are the models made from years ’53-’60 according to the MCB website and this bridge is called Stud Finder.
I installed the MCB "savvy" on both my Collings 290 and 290DC. It's the only wrap bridge that intonates perfectly, matches neck radius perfectly and increases resonance and sustain.
I put in a music city bridge to my 2011 melody maker…holy crap, what a difference. Solid intonation now, and it stays in tune. The bridge for the Les Paul junior is a different one from the melody maker so buyers need to look carefully. It’s not expensive.
I had Glaser setup my brother's 67 SG Special and they turned it into a whole new guitar. I don't live in Nashville anymore but what a gift it was living close to that shop. Cool content Robert.
I love Joe and the guys at Glaser! Been friends for decades and they always helped me chase down issues! I’m so glad that they addressed the difference between a wound and plain G! 99% of people who have tuning issues on older style guitars (3 saddle Tele bridge, LP Jr and Special bridges) forget that those guitars were designed in an era where a wound 3rd String was the norm and plain and wound strings react wildly different from each other in an intonating and tuning way! Thank you Joe and guys at Glaser! Thank you Robert for all your videos! You are one of the best at educating your audience!!! I’ll check Joes site to see if he has metric versions available as well! I put a cheap bridge with six adjustable saddles on my Epiphone LP Special but I’m sure the time isn’t where it needs to be, although tuning is much better! Thanks!
The nut not being properly slotted will cause “Sitaring” as well. I have a new Murphy Lab 57 aged Junior. I believe the new versions have been fixed and the studs are where they are meant to be. Thankfully. They are awesome. 👍 Great video guys and great idea that will help many guitarists with these old things. Turned a dreadful guitar into a weapon. 👌
I just bought a new les Paul junior reissue from Sweetwater. Do you think the newer juniors would benefit from this mod or has Gibson already fixed this issue over the years?
They definitely benefit from a new Music City Bridge. I have replaced two. Nick did one for me on a Special and I just did it on a Junior I bought one month ago from Sweetwater. The MCB sounds better hands down!
I used the link and checked the price. It may seem a little expensive at first. Consider how much a shop will charge to redrill and move the existing screw inserts and the damage to the finish and originality of the guitar by going with that option. This product cures the intonation and sitar sound problems, improves sustain with better string vibration transfer to the guitar through the increased bridge contact area, along with a slight increase in mass of the bridge. This is the first that I have ever heard of this bridge and I can see that this will actually improve any guitar that has this situation. Plus, it can be switched by anyone without having to need a technical degree. My hat's off to this group. Thank you, gentleman, for putting out one of the best upgrades I have seen lately that I would endorse. I did subscribe, not only for the appreciation of a genuine upgrade, but for the mindset of these guys to do it right, to do it for the guitar itself, and to do this for everyone that needs this. I am sure there are some budget guitars somewhere that didn't the proper insert offset, that could benefit from this bridge, along with higher end guitars that somehow received a mistake location that's a little off.
I swapped out all of my non-intonation bridges, no matter what it took. I have been doing this for at least 40 years. Makes all the world a difference. For the vintage guitars that I couldn’t do this too, I sold them to people that didn’t care if the guitars had the ability to be intonated properly. I would never sell a guitar that has a crappy bridge on it, no matter how “vintage” it is.
the strings we use today were not available in the 50's or early 60's--if I remember correctly. I think they were had a wound g and most likely were flat would . I'm not sure but I think that changes the compensation?
I love it when folks are still willing to try to fix the many flaws on old Gibsons (ok, I'm singling them out) and make them better than they ever could be. Recognizing the problems and not poo pooing them because of the name on the headstock doesn't help anyone. Awesome bridges!
I have an RG550 that falls out of tune maybe once between string changes and was intonated nearly perfect in Japan. It's amazing how far guitar design has come. I also have a LP (2014) I truly love but falls out of tune daily. It also has a semi dead fret and I can not get this thing properly set up to save my life. I had a Fender Strat Plus in 1990 and that's the only other perfect guitar I've owned, I sold it like a dummy. I would love to have a junior but I've never seen a good one that wasn't priced to cripple, this is a pretty good trick I didn't know about or I may have bought one by now.
I like the adj bridge on my PRS 245. I can't find one for my Jr. I tried a Schaller but it was ridiculous. If this guitar wasn't so old with cool paint, I would fill the holes and redrill in the correct place. Then install a nice modern wrap around bridge.
it may be "fine" to you....but if you REALLY checked it, it is far from perfect...how do i know that? because its mathematically impossible..... (and here's where you go "old school" and talk about how records were better when everything was out of tune)
I bought a used Les Paul Special DC Tribute. The previous owner put a Graph Tech wraparound with adjustable polepieces. I never heard it with the stock one, but it seems decent enough to me. It's a nice solid chunk of metal. Beyond that, I don't know how it compares to the best of the rest.
I'm going to get one. I have a Univox LP special, I've bought at least 4 bridges trying to get it in tune, It already sounds great I can't imagine how much better it will be with this bridge.
There is still a gap even with the new bridge. The allen screw / set screw is still maxing out and that is what the bridge post is resting on - not the extra metal on the new bridge.
@10:40 close up of the new (non adjustable bridge). I would have made a smooth ramp at the very sharp rear part of the bridge at the wrap around point. Two guesses where the string will break, that's called a stress riser? I'm not bitchin'. just saying.
I wrap my strings around the tail piece on my Les Paul’s and never looked back, it improves playability substantially, they should come from the factory like this.
So this is just for vintage '50s guitars I suppose. I bought a single cut 2023 Junior this month and the bolts for the tailpiece aren't set at that crazy angle. I'm not getting any "sitaring". I may or may not buy a compensated tailpiece, but the intonation at the moment strikes me as being "close enough for rock & roll".
I never see anyone demo this so here's my method for a rapid intonation check: First tune open strings to pitch. Play the octaves either side of the open A string including the open string ie strum all three strings A (17th fret on E string) + Open A + A (19th fret on D string) Strum all three notes at once D (17th fret on A string) + Open D + D (19th fret on G string) Again strumming all three at once Repeat across the strings ending with a B (16th fret on G string + Open B in the middle + B (19th fret on E string) Let's you know in seconds if a tuned guitar is good to go 😊 or not! I'm enjoying all your videos and this bridge design is very cool!
Question regarding the Savvy bridge... is there a noticeable improvement in using the locking studs they also sell? Or is most of the payoff in the bride itself. Trying to decide whether to order both or just the bridge.
@@501chorusechoThanks! It's a 2019 Gibson dblcut Jr. so it should fit. But I'll prolly just order the studs while I'm at it anyway. I appreciate the response.
Idk about Jr's. But I can share what i do with my L.P.s. It might be a placebo effect but I really believe it helps the tone considerably. I lower the stop bar as far as it can go. Right on the deck. Then I wrap around the strings like on that Jr. The break angle of the strings by doing this and the combination of more string touching and transmitting vibrations, to me feels better, sounds better. And it does look old school cool. In my humble opinion.
So i have a 61 epi olympic. I like the idea of a better bridge, as i always have to dick around with the G string, like slightly out of tune so it will sound right. This bridge will solve that problem, but i really don't want to start removing the studs, how can i tell if i would need them?
I strung my regular les paul backwards through the bridge and over the top to get rid of that nasty string angle. I like the looser feel it gives too. I quit breaking strings after that too.
So Gibson made substandard guitar that would have been laughed at if they came from a Chinese website today but because of the name on the headstock has some meaning nowadays, it doesn't matter that a Chibson could have at least gotten the string scale length right
At the very beginning of the video,...What I don't understand is that the "bridge" on that guitar looks like a stop-bar or a tailpiece and not a true wrap-around bridge. There are no saddles built into it. Typically, the wrap-around bridges have saddle bumps and divots built into them. Also, its hard to imagine the string going across a completely smooth and rounded surface and ever working without making a "sitar" sound.
@@501chorusecho I get that and understand that 100%...That is actually a common trait on a wrap-around bridge. Whether they get it right or not. I was strictly focusing on the lack of this even being on the original. It looks like a stop-bar off of a Les Paul Standard with a tuneomatic.
@stricknine8623 I was thinking the same thing until near the end they briefly showed the original and I thought I saw slight notches for the strings. Definitely not my favorite setup. I prefer Tune-o-matics. Probably why I never bought an LP Jr
@@mikewithers299 The "notches" you saw were just where the strings had burrowed in over time. Most Les Paul Jr., wrap-around bridges have a built-in, raised and notched saddles and the saddles are mathematically staggered for intonation. And the post hole stagger is not that extreme like on this old guitar. I think all of this is just on the old original 50s LP Juniors.
@@stricknine8623 yea I guess they changed things later on to make it better. You are probably right that the very first saddles were nothing more than repurposed tail pieces from LP's and other guitars. Gibson was playing catch-up with Fender solid body's back then. They were behind the curve for a bit in the late '50's. 🤣
What's the deal with the website? I can only see half of the page because the cart/checkout pop up blocks it. I clicked the X to remove it, I added something to the cart and tried to checkout...but nothing worked. I guess it doesn't want my money or it isn't good enough? I tried it yesterday, same issues.🤯🤬
Hey Rob I have a question. I want a charvel but I'm torn between a maple fretboard and a Pau ferro. My understanding is the maple gets dirty really quickly and is quite softer . I'm incredibly meticulous with my guitars and keep them clean. Am I over thinking this? Or will the maple neck surly lose its beautiful color no matter what I do. Thanks bud.
Kind of reminds me of what PRS puts on “Pauls Guitar” but I think the intonation line is more like a cliff (with brass inserts) on those. I got one of those Squier Statosonics, which is basically the LP Special in strat form. I put a Schaller adjustable wrap tail on it because I wanted to tune down and the stock wraptail just didn’t like that idea. I had one around for a project guitar that just never happened. I like that the Squier has both phase and series/parallel switching, which I’ve never seen on a P-90 guitar.
Have you looked at the Schaller, Gotoh, and TonePro intonatable wraparound tailpieces available from StewMac? It seems like there are already multiple solutions to this problem.
I have one on my 1962 Melody Maker (the original literally broke in half). Well. It tunes. It sounds better. But you have to take the strings off and loosen up the tightening system just to raise or lower it ... a real pain in the backside.
My 2011 Doublecut Junior has a far less severe angle to the tailpiece which, although it may call into question the "Vintage Original Spec" tag...IMHO it was definitely a prudent compromise. Don't get me wrong; it still "sitarred"...until I replaced the tailpiece with a ridged one.
1:30 that red chair is actually a murphy lab chair
Hahah
There's a reason why you don't throw a chair that looks like that out; it's vintage reliced.
I wonder how much that costs? 🤣
@@mrelmoresmusiclab It's Custom Shop bro. So it's big bucks.
Sitting down has never felt better or looked so good xD
At 52 years old, having never played a guitar in my life, I decided to build guitars for a hobby. The problems you guys are talking about, I spotted almost immediately and started building my own bridges to solve them. I used T-6 aluminum and brass/copper alloys to get the tonal qualities I was looking for and sought to have every bridge slammed tight to the body when the action was perfect. For 14 years now, everyone who plays my guitars raves about the tone and the resonance they are hearing. In my opinion, the bridge is the single most critical element in guitar tone.
You should list your brand! I too build as I started in 1980 and guitars were so obviously poorly made.
@@thesjkexperience I build GT handmade guitars. They are listed on E-Bay right now. Only about 12 of 65 left.
I love that you lot called it "sitaring" and I also hate that I knew exactly what that means.
I have a Gretsch Annie that I can't barely play because of sitaring. It drives me nuts. I hate it because I otherwise love the guitar. I've never found a way to cancel it, or even tone it down any.
lol so true
Autism helps me there
@@stoneysdead689 it's easy enough to figure out. Just start fretting notes, working your way up the neck - on the offensive string(s). I just had the problem develop on my Fullerton Legacy. Thought the same, but it did it all the way up the neck. So then I thought it was a saddle burr. Nope, I just didn't have the string perfectly centered in the channel of the saddle after a string change.
I'd really hope you knew what that meant. It's a pretty simple concept.
I recently saw Peter Frampton on Gibson's "The Collection" series, and he had this bridge on his 50s Jr.'s. That's the best endorsement these guys could ever get. It's the first time I have ever seen the bridge. If Frampton loves it, it's good enough for me.
I guarantee you Buk convinced him personally
It is. Lol
“Never trust anyone over 70”
14:46 shutting up Lar by snapping and yelling "Bukovac" was like a teacher/student interaction. love it
That was literally my favorite moment from this. It's like trying to get your dog to focus 😂
@@gryphon37 it worked, too :p
I put a mojo compensated bridge, SD P90, Kluson supreme tuners, tusq XL nut, wiring; cap, and pots on an Epiphone coronet. The guitar stays in tune doesn’t fret out, and plays so well acoustically; screams plugged in.
Try the Wilkenson bridge with moveable saddles for exact intonation. 97 Epi LP Special with aftermarket P90s wound to 50s specs, Gotoh tuners, Wilkenson bridge, bone nut, custom wired with new 250/500 pots, push/pull volume pot for series, Switchcraft output jack & complete setup by the best tech in southern Nevada. As good or better than any Gibson!
@@bradgriffith4231 Sounds a lot like mine ! Except I bought a Sassy bridge from these guys. Very happy with the result. One thing made a lot more difference than you may expect - I sealed the fingerboard with epoxy resin and sanded it for a super smooth finish. I did that for playability, but got a significant improvement in tone as well.
About 50 years ago, I fitted a "Badass" bridge to my Junior. Looks similar to original but with intonation for each string. Still play it
Yep. The Badass is badass.
I replaced the Bushings, posts, and Bridge on my Les Junior using Vintage FABER parts, great upgrades, massive difference in sound.I don’t have any issues at all with the intonation, not cheap but well worth it.
Faber parts are very good...and i don't just say that because i'm german too.....
@@stratman9449 Faber to be honest is great value for money, for information I also replaced the same parts on my R9. 👍🏻
I put a Faber wraparound on my LP jr and it’s the best guitar I have now.
This is the comment I was looking for while watching this. The Faber bridge 'wraparound' is the fix and it's been out for quite a while heh...
I own two specials and I have it on both, intonation is as close to perfect as you'll get. So honestly I'm not sure what is so different about this bridge they're showing in this video lol
So it's a great guitar once you replace everything? That's a hell of an endorsement.
I think the reason Gibson drilled the studs to create a noticable bridge angle is because guitars in the 1950s were strung with heavier strings. There was a bigger ratio between the diameter of the Low E and the high E, so more compensation was needed. The early rock-'n-rollers would buy a set of strings plus one lighter plain string made for banjos, then throw away the low E string from the set. Once Gibson realized that light strings were the new standard for electrics, they reduced this angle. Personally, I like the feel of a "wraptail" bridge because there is nothing in the way of my right palm. Regarding performance, there are fewer moving parts to absorb string vibrations or cause buzzing.
@@feralkid1879 every junior and special between 54 and 60 has the radically offset bridge studs..and yes it was mistake. they are not even close to where they actually need to be.....it was either a mistake or they knew it and no one cared because they were just the bottom of the line student models to begin with.
I love learning about all these cool inventions they’ve made and used for years at Glasier’s. Why on earth doesn’t the entire world know about these modified inventions that they sell to fix issues on certain manufacturer’s guitars?! They could sell their modified parts like hotcakes! Thanks for showing us, Robert!
Real guitar setup techs all know this stuff. Try the Wilkenson wrap around addjustable saddle bridge for exact intonation.
That a great idea. Also, cutting the nut properly for the D and G works wonders for keeping a Gibson in tune.
JR-to8sn
You,good sir, are exactly correct. That's the first mod I do to an L.P. No more tuning issues on the greatest guitar man has massed produced. Why doesn't it come out of the box that way amazes me.
@@robertwillett4122 what do you mean? The telecaster never had any tuning issues :)
@@joseislanio8910
Good one
@@joseislanio8910 HAHA yeah well I can't disagree. Leo certainly understood straight string pull of the inline 6 is better, tuning wise vs 3x3.
@@robertwillett4122 I know, they just have to use a straight edge to the tuner/s and file the D and G on the nut at that angle and you won't get those tuning issues. It's so easy I don't have any idea as to why they don't do that from the factory.
When I was looking for a guitar with P90s, I wound up getting an Epi LP Special.
I really like it.
Most Junior/Specials and guitars based on them have a wraparound and yeah, intonation is an issue, some were unplayable for me due to that.
But I found one that was a dealer edition with the Tune-o-matic bridge and tailpiece
Some consider that not a Special for that reason, but it’s intonated correctly and it plays and sounds great.
That’s not the only reason I got the guitar, but it is the reason that is somewhat tied to the video.
Of course if you have a 50s/60s one, or that’s your plan, then having options for replacements is a good thing.
Jrs have the wrap around bridge, Specials have a separate string stop behind the bridge. I have both. The Wilkenson wrap around bridge with adjustable string saddles is a better bridge & provides adjustment for exact intonation.
@@bradgriffith4231 actually the Specials are double pickup Juniors.
They originally had the wrap around, and historically have had the wrap around.
Gibson and Epiphone have both made many variations on the the Special, including separate bridge and tailpiece, as well as humbuckers. Some Epi Specials are set necks, some bolt on.
But overall, historically, the Special has had the wrap around tailpiece.
Go to the Gibson and Epiphone sites, the Specials have wraparound bridges, look at the originals, you’ll see wraparounds.
Yes they have made variations and I own one, but mostly theSpecial has had a wraparound tailpiece, not separate bridgeand tailpiece.
@@bradgriffith4231 Originally Specials had the wrap around tailpieces as well, they were two pickup Juniors
Gibson and Epiphone have used the “Special” on various guitars over the tears.
If it’s a “Special II” it likely has the separate tailpiece and bridge, usually with humbuckers
But if it has P 90s, it likely has a wraparound
On both Gibson’s and Epiphone’s websites they have Specials with the wraparound
Peter frampton gave uncle Larry a big shoutout.
Now we know why Peter was so happy. It's such an elegant, simple solution. His "barkers" must sound better than ever. JnPrague
Yes! Heard that. What an awesome interview : those stories
@@andersestes What interview are you referring to ? I’d like to see it
@@DrMattWalton Gibson just did one a few days ago. They went through his collection of Gibson guitars and a couple offenders and he brought up the bridge that uncle Larry gave him said it was great.
Uncle Larry helped me get through Covid. I lost my family a couple months before Covid hit and I was alone through Covid for 19 months and watching his videos brought joy. Thanks, uncle Larry.
I have one of those bridges on my junior and I love it!! It intonated so easily and really transformed the guitar.. Such a no brainer upgrade.
How does it sound plugged in 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@akwamarsunzal Sounds fantastic!! Mine is a new junior so I got the other bridge and locking nuts and it was way better..
@@13aphomet Sweet! Unplugged is awesome, plugged in absolutely zero difference 🙂
I put a hipshot bridge on my LP Special to fix the intonation and it worked just like it should. However, I think it changed the tone slightly. When I had the original wrap around bridge on it the bridge pickup seemed to have more mid bite.
Tom always seems like a dude I'd be happy to spend a week with without knowing him beforehand at all. So humble. And all of this work just to get Gibsons in tune that should have been from the start... Damn straight, totally worth it!!
I just got my Music City Savvy Bridge 2 weeks ago for my 54 Les Paul Reissue. I've had the guitar 30 years and it's never been as in tune and felt as good as it does now.
I also have a 54 reissue that bought new in 73. I will try the Music City wrap around bridge.
Bukovac is the best!
I bought a Music City Bridge "The Savvy" with their locking studs for my '19 SG Junior. It changed my guitar.
Me too. I have the dual p90 SG special in cherry red. I hated the lighting bar tailpiece on it. I got the Savvy with their locking studs and I absolutely love it!
I have the same setup on my 22’ LPjr it’s really great. I’ve tried a few others over the years and the only other one I’d recommend is the Faber with the “tone bar “ it does kinda get away from looking traditional but it sounds good and intonates perfectly with no sitaring
@@badtonestudio I have that one as well! 👍
@@BostonWhoFan515ya
The Gretsch Bridge needs to be the "Major Tom" in honor of Uncle Larry and keeping with the space theme.
I think they sound call it "space command ". Major Tom is a good one too though.
Who did the heavy relic job on the chair?
The original wraparound bridge on my "54 Les Paul became so worn that it wanted replacement. I bought a Music CitySstud-Finder replacement bridge and it's bloody magic! Its intonation and tone have never been better, and that,saying alot about this already magic guitar.
Even my 2010 Epiphone Junior has the same problem. It have an intunuated bar, but I have to bring the bar ,on the 1's E string, way back.., and there's almost a gap between the bar and the pole. But yes, it right on the dot on the intinuation.
Put one of those Music City bridges on my 57jr. Because Tom said so. Game changer.
Proper intonation is when all strings played at the 12th fret are EXACTLY double the frequency when played open.
I saw Tom’s earlier video and I ordered one for my SG Junior that was starting to lean. It was a super easy swap.
All you needed was locking posts.
Thanks for being so humble Robert. It is a refreshing and welcome CHANGE from other not-so-humble UA-cam hosts.
Can you imagine a room with uncle Larry, Joe Glaser, Chip, Leo Fender, Ted McCarty and Freddie Tavares all talking shop. I'd wanna be the fly on the wall.
I looked up Joe Glazer and it said that he was a folk musician and union teacher, who put out many freedom/work related albums and he was born in 1918 and died in 2006. This can't be the same Joe Glazer ??? Can it ???
Can’t beat the inside-baseball, the behind the curtain stuff
I love the bridge on my PRS korina "One", it's a huge hunk of metal, and the strings going over the top are recessed so I don't feel them resting my hand on the bridge, has correct intonation too. I don't see an advantage with the Music City bridge compared to PRS version, but for Gibson/Epiphone type guitars a definite improvement.
You are correct David and Nick at Glaser confirmed it for me. I have two of the PRS Ones.
Just a disclaimer, though, folks, don't expect to have your late 50's early 60's Gibson to magically snap into tune just because you put a music city bridge on. Remember that there's other factors to getting your guitar in tune than just throwing that bridge on.
Yes! Such as actually tuning it!
Yeah, getting a good nut installed, lubricating it with some graphite, and wrapping one wind on top and the rest down from the tuning peg. If you do all that one a Gibson that’s been set up properly, it’s like the best intonated and sounding guitar you’ll ever own
What do mean on wrapping one wind from top and the rest down?
I love the “liquid to rot the binding“. Tom has the best sarcasm around.
I hate be snarky, but from here, is sure looks as though that prototype Gretsch bridge is installed upside-down (relative to the rounded mounting-bosses)... If at 22:43 you compare the intonation-points for the 4th (D) string vs. the 3rd (G) string, the 3rd looks like it's farther forward (towards the neck). You'd need to have the threaded rod upside-down, to get the 3rd-string roller back behind the 4th-string roller - but I assume you'd still want the mounting-bosses installed, hemi-spherical side(s) 'up'. Or, is it just the angle at which it's being photographed?
Awesome vid Robert thanks 😊
I have the same problem with studs and tilt bridge on my PRS McCarty from 1995 ( Prerun No. 3) . Just ordered the Standard locking Studs. Thanks guys for this invention
100% improvement. I bought a Sassy bridge for an Epiphone entry-level LP (actually more like a Melody Maker) which I bought as a project guitar. Gretsch P90s, everything modded and improved, but the Sassy bridge made all the difference. I fully endorse what these dudes are saying. No more ‘sitar’ tones on strings 1 & 2, perfect intonation. Great work guys.
Tell Tom I bought a 65 melody maker deluxe... around the same time.... pedals I use 2 beef it up.. ...donner reverb square..cheap...rowin plexion... and tomsline plexion... it at same time.. demonfx ts ii red.. azor reverb. All super cheap...my amp....1969 laney lc.16... 1x12 origina fane speaker 1 reverb... one reverb /one overdrive/or distortion...part of my family from ohio....dream sg 1964 special.....next pedal moen 2010ish... shaky jimi.....cheap. ...live 3hr..left of Memphis
Dis the season ta ramble...
Glad to hear the word ‘sitaring’. I first experienced it on brand new Epiphone LP standard with a wobbly nut (unglued and basically unfitted, sitting on an uneven mixture of paint and poly). I cured it by doing their job for them (watched some videos, cut a slot and fitted it properly) even though I was a beginner guitarist at the time. Next time I came across it was with a trapeze tailpiece that kept singing when everyone else had stopped (on a Vox Bobcat)! Cured it with some cloth across the strings between the tailpiece and bridge. Sitaring is a curse, and it reflects badly on mass manufacture and their approach to QA.
Thank you Robert, this video needed to be made b/c when I bought my MCB (not the bridge in this video) there were limited videos available and were not as in-depth as this. However by watching the videos MCB had at the time it lead me to the bridge I need which is called The Savvy. According to the MCB website, The Savvy is for Modern guitars with slight offset or for bridges with Parallel studs and for guitar years ’61 to present. So I bought it for my 2011 Gibson Melody Maker, it’s the guitar that comes with a single, single coil pickup. However, I have yet to install it b/c I am also adding a Lollar Melody Maker P90 pickup and need to make my pickup route bigger to accommodate the Lollar and get a new pickguard made. Please note*** Not sure if I missed in your video but this video is talking about the MCB bridge for guitars with severe offset which are the models made from years ’53-’60 according to the MCB website and this bridge is called Stud Finder.
I have the Savvy on my SG Special. It's great with MCB locking studs. 👍
i love this kind of content, listening to people who are experts in their craft without constant cuts is very refreshing.
I installed the MCB "savvy" on both my Collings 290 and 290DC. It's the only wrap bridge that intonates perfectly, matches neck radius perfectly and increases resonance and sustain.
I put in a music city bridge to my 2011 melody maker…holy crap, what a difference. Solid intonation now, and it stays in tune. The bridge for the Les Paul junior is a different one from the melody maker so buyers need to look carefully. It’s not expensive.
Are there left handed versions of the bridge?
I had Glaser setup my brother's 67 SG Special and they turned it into a whole new guitar. I don't live in Nashville anymore but what a gift it was living close to that shop. Cool content Robert.
I have a ‘57 LP Special being restored right now and I’m definitely gonna have a Music City Bridge installed. That thing looks magic.
I love Joe and the guys at Glaser! Been friends for decades and they always helped me chase down issues! I’m so glad that they addressed the difference between a wound and plain G! 99% of people who have tuning issues on older style guitars (3 saddle Tele bridge, LP Jr and Special bridges) forget that those guitars were designed in an era where a wound 3rd String was the norm and plain and wound strings react wildly different from each other in an intonating and tuning way! Thank you Joe and guys at Glaser! Thank you Robert for all your videos! You are one of the best at educating your audience!!! I’ll check Joes site to see if he has metric versions available as well! I put a cheap bridge with six adjustable saddles on my Epiphone LP Special but I’m sure the time isn’t where it needs to be, although tuning is much better! Thanks!
Tuning not time... ugh. Wouldn’t let me edit!
For the new original collection gibson Junior would you recommend the Savvy or the Studfinder?
Unlike Fender, Gibson not only didn't get it right the first time, but they either made the issue worse, or left it as is.
And charged more to boot
The nut not being properly slotted will cause “Sitaring” as well.
I have a new Murphy Lab 57 aged Junior. I believe the new versions have been fixed and the studs are where they are meant to be. Thankfully. They are awesome. 👍 Great video guys and great idea that will help many guitarists with these old things. Turned a dreadful guitar into a weapon. 👌
I just bought a new les Paul junior reissue from Sweetwater. Do you think the newer juniors would benefit from this mod or has Gibson already fixed this issue over the years?
They definitely benefit from a new Music City Bridge. I have replaced two. Nick did one for me on a Special and I just did it on a Junior I bought one month ago from Sweetwater. The MCB sounds better hands down!
Now the next question how many bodies were drilled the same way for the posts? Did it ever change?
All of them…and then in 1961 they changed to a different kind of wrong
I used the link and checked the price. It may seem a little expensive at first. Consider how much a shop will charge to redrill and move the existing screw inserts and the damage to the finish and originality of the guitar by going with that option. This product cures the intonation and sitar sound problems, improves sustain with better string vibration transfer to the guitar through the increased bridge contact area, along with a slight increase in mass of the bridge. This is the first that I have ever heard of this bridge and I can see that this will actually improve any guitar that has this situation. Plus, it can be switched by anyone without having to need a technical degree. My hat's off to this group. Thank you, gentleman, for putting out one of the best upgrades I have seen lately that I would endorse. I did subscribe, not only for the appreciation of a genuine upgrade, but for the mindset of these guys to do it right, to do it for the guitar itself, and to do this for everyone that needs this. I am sure there are some budget guitars somewhere that didn't the proper insert offset, that could benefit from this bridge, along with higher end guitars that somehow received a mistake location that's a little off.
Great idea. Would be even cooler to have an option with the pigtail intonation sliders for each string.
So would this bridge also work for a vintage Melody Maker??
Yes but you need the savvy and not the stud finder
@@501chorusechoOk thanx👍 Definitely gonna look into getting one.
These are "Vintage" Juniors. I have what is the modern-production Junior. It is "sitaring" now. Is my modern Junior spec the same as the vintage?
I swapped out all of my non-intonation bridges, no matter what it took. I have been doing this for at least 40 years. Makes all the world a difference. For the vintage guitars that I couldn’t do this too, I sold them to people that didn’t care if the guitars had the ability to be intonated properly. I would never sell a guitar that has a crappy bridge on it, no matter how “vintage” it is.
I have a newer Lp Jr and ive always wanted to drill out some holes and use a two peice stop bar but maybe its too low on a flat guitar to work
the strings we use today were not available in the 50's or early 60's--if I remember correctly. I think they were had a wound g and most likely were flat would . I'm not sure but I think that changes the compensation?
I have a LP double cutaway from 94 with a crappy wraparound tailpiece. It sits right at the bridge pickup and bums me out. Im going to try this thing.
I love it when folks are still willing to try to fix the many flaws on old Gibsons (ok, I'm singling them out) and make them better than they ever could be. Recognizing the problems and not poo pooing them because of the name on the headstock doesn't help anyone. Awesome bridges!
It’s weird how it is the bridge and the tail stop and it wasn’t even in tune or possible with the intonation issues from the factory before.
The secret bridge alloy is "Unobtainium". 🤣🤣🤣
Yep, nickel silver
It's pretty hard to come by 😊.
our ‘55-‘56 Jrs and my ‘56 TV jr and ‘56 and ‘57 Specials all work exceptionally well with the original lightweight wrap bridges
Robert Baker and Tom Bukovac in the same room talking guitar gear...it doesn't get much better than this for a guitar nerd!
Good, nerdy stuff. I love that these best-of-the-best guitar guys work in all that clutter.
I have an RG550 that falls out of tune maybe once between string changes and was intonated nearly perfect in Japan. It's amazing how far guitar design has come. I also have a LP (2014) I truly love but falls out of tune daily. It also has a semi dead fret and I can not get this thing properly set up to save my life. I had a Fender Strat Plus in 1990 and that's the only other perfect guitar I've owned, I sold it like a dummy. I would love to have a junior but I've never seen a good one that wasn't priced to cripple, this is a pretty good trick I didn't know about or I may have bought one by now.
I like the adj bridge on my PRS 245. I can't find one for my Jr. I tried a Schaller but it was ridiculous. If this guitar wasn't so old with cool paint, I would fill the holes and redrill in the correct place. Then install a nice modern wrap around bridge.
I've never had an old LPJ in my hands, but I've always wondered at that crazy angle the bridge is mounted at. Turns out, it really was just wrong!
Is this necessary on a new LP Junior? It seems that now they mount the bridge on a better angle.
Music City bridge and studs made a huge difference in my late model LP Special. Great! More accurate, and better sustain.
I may need to get one of these for my old Hamer Eclipse as it's a wrap tail and the G string isn't in tune but the rest are.
I have a '59 LPJ double cut and the intonation with the original wrap-around is fine (10s).
it may be "fine" to you....but if you REALLY checked it, it is far from perfect...how do i know that? because its mathematically impossible.....
(and here's where you go "old school" and talk about how records were better when everything was out of tune)
I bought a used Les Paul Special DC Tribute. The previous owner put a Graph Tech wraparound with adjustable polepieces. I never heard it with the stock one, but it seems decent enough to me. It's a nice solid chunk of metal. Beyond that, I don't know how it compares to the best of the rest.
I'm going to get one. I have a Univox LP special, I've bought at least 4 bridges trying to get it in tune, It already sounds great I can't imagine how much better it will be with this bridge.
There is still a gap even with the new bridge. The allen screw / set screw is still maxing out and that is what the bridge post is resting on - not the extra metal on the new bridge.
@10:40 close up of the new (non adjustable bridge). I would have made a smooth ramp at the very sharp rear part of the bridge at the wrap around point. Two guesses where the string will break, that's called a stress riser? I'm not bitchin'. just saying.
Doing a build now and leaning toward an ABM Nashville, with the 6mm large/fat studs. What would you choose?
Why not re-locate/drill the high side bridge post?
I wrap my strings around the tail piece on my Les Paul’s and never looked back, it improves playability substantially, they should come from the factory like this.
So this is just for vintage '50s guitars I suppose. I bought a single cut 2023 Junior this month and the bolts for the tailpiece aren't set at that crazy angle. I'm not getting any "sitaring". I may or may not buy a compensated tailpiece, but the intonation at the moment strikes me as being "close enough for rock & roll".
I never see anyone demo this so here's my method for a rapid intonation check:
First tune open strings to pitch.
Play the octaves either side of the open A string including the open string ie strum all three strings
A (17th fret on E string) + Open A + A (19th fret on D string) Strum all three notes at once
D (17th fret on A string) + Open D + D (19th fret on G string) Again strumming all three at once
Repeat across the strings ending with a B (16th fret on G string + Open B in the middle + B (19th fret on E string)
Let's you know in seconds if a tuned guitar is good to go 😊 or not!
I'm enjoying all your videos and this bridge design is very cool!
Question regarding the Savvy bridge... is there a noticeable improvement in using the locking studs they also sell? Or is most of the payoff in the bride itself. Trying to decide whether to order both or just the bridge.
the locking studs are nice....but even if you don't get them, the bridge alone is a total game changer, as long as it fits the studs you have
@@501chorusechoThanks! It's a 2019 Gibson dblcut Jr. so it should fit. But I'll prolly just order the studs while I'm at it anyway. I appreciate the response.
I have a new Jr, will this bridge help it out?
Yes it definitely will. I have recently replaced the bridges on two current models.
Idk about Jr's. But I can share what i do with my L.P.s. It might be a placebo effect but I really believe it helps the tone considerably. I lower the stop bar as far as it can go. Right on the deck. Then I wrap around the strings like on that Jr. The break angle of the strings by doing this and the combination of more string touching and transmitting vibrations, to me feels better, sounds better. And it does look old school cool. In my humble opinion.
So i have a 61 epi olympic. I like the idea of a better bridge, as i always have to dick around with the G string, like slightly out of tune so it will sound right. This bridge will solve that problem, but i really don't want to start removing the studs, how can i tell if i would need them?
it will work...the studs just screw in and out bro...its simple
I strung my regular les paul backwards through the bridge and over the top to get rid of that nasty string angle. I like the looser feel it gives too. I quit breaking strings after that too.
So Gibson made substandard guitar that would have been laughed at if they came from a Chinese website today but because of the name on the headstock has some meaning nowadays, it doesn't matter that a Chibson could have at least gotten the string scale length right
At the very beginning of the video,...What I don't understand is that the "bridge" on that guitar looks like a stop-bar or a tailpiece and not a true wrap-around bridge. There are no saddles built into it.
Typically, the wrap-around bridges have saddle bumps and divots built into them.
Also, its hard to imagine the string going across a completely smooth and rounded surface and ever working without making a "sitar" sound.
the music city bridge has a set intonation line that runs across the bridge...the strings go over that line and they are PERFECTLY intonated
@@501chorusecho I get that and understand that 100%...That is actually a common trait on a wrap-around bridge. Whether they get it right or not.
I was strictly focusing on the lack of this even being on the original. It looks like a stop-bar off of a Les Paul Standard with a tuneomatic.
@stricknine8623 I was thinking the same thing until near the end they briefly showed the original and I thought I saw slight notches for the strings. Definitely not my favorite setup. I prefer Tune-o-matics. Probably why I never bought an LP Jr
@@mikewithers299 The "notches" you saw were just where the strings had burrowed in over time.
Most Les Paul Jr., wrap-around bridges have a built-in, raised and notched saddles and the saddles are mathematically staggered for intonation.
And the post hole stagger is not that extreme like on this old guitar.
I think all of this is just on the old original 50s LP Juniors.
@@stricknine8623 yea I guess they changed things later on to make it better. You are probably right that the very first saddles were nothing more than repurposed tail pieces from LP's and other guitars. Gibson was playing catch-up with Fender solid body's back then. They were behind the curve for a bit in the late '50's. 🤣
Tom is hilarious. I love these videos.
What's the deal with the website? I can only see half of the page because the cart/checkout pop up blocks it. I clicked the X to remove it, I added something to the cart and tried to checkout...but nothing worked. I guess it doesn't want my money or it isn't good enough? I tried it yesterday, same issues.🤯🤬
Hey Rob I have a question. I want a charvel but I'm torn between a maple fretboard and a Pau ferro. My understanding is the maple gets dirty really quickly and is quite softer . I'm incredibly meticulous with my guitars and keep them clean. Am I over thinking this? Or will the maple neck surly lose its beautiful color no matter what I do. Thanks bud.
You might want to go the Pau Ferro route in this situation :)
@RobertBakerGuitar thanks Rob I was thinking the same. Are maple fret boards really finicky? I've never owned one. I do like how they look though.
Kind of reminds me of what PRS puts on “Pauls Guitar” but I think the intonation line is more like a cliff (with brass inserts) on those.
I got one of those Squier Statosonics, which is basically the LP Special in strat form. I put a Schaller adjustable wrap tail on it because I wanted to tune down and the stock wraptail just didn’t like that idea. I had one around for a project guitar that just never happened. I like that the Squier has both phase and series/parallel switching, which I’ve never seen on a P-90 guitar.
I have a 77 LP. Is it worth getting one of these? Can't say I've noticed the stock bridge being partiuclarly bad
Im a newb guitarist with a made in Korea Epi-Gibson LesPaul. I found this video to be an amazing expose and genius solution!
Thank- you for this!!!
I'm confused, unwound G string requires longer scale length than wound G, correct? Thanks in advance.
Have you looked at the Schaller, Gotoh, and TonePro intonatable wraparound tailpieces available from StewMac? It seems like there are already multiple solutions to this problem.
PERFECT! Great idea! I gave up on my 59 factory bridge and sold the guitar
I have one on my 1962 Melody Maker (the original literally broke in half). Well. It tunes. It sounds better. But you have to take the strings off and loosen up the tightening system just to raise or lower it ... a real pain in the backside.
My 2011 Doublecut Junior has a far less severe angle to the tailpiece which, although it may call into question the "Vintage Original Spec" tag...IMHO it was definitely a prudent compromise. Don't get me wrong; it still "sitarred"...until I replaced the tailpiece with a ridged one.
Why did Gibson change the dimensions on studs and other parts? Was it mostly trying to fix issues or was it a change of parts because they ran out?
Is the chair roadworn or a relic model?