As a 59 year old boiler man here I appreciate your video and common sense simple method. Thanks from a old guy. You sir are a true craftsman the pride in your trade really shows.
Very nice. My god finally its nice to see someone take there time , think!! , and show some pride in there work. Most people don't even understand or want to know how a heating system works or anything in there home let alone thinking an instal through like that. In todays time it seems not many people care anymore its all about time and speed. Nice work
To New York State: Since inception of this video you have been the top number one viewer consistently. I Thank all of you that has taken an interest in my efforts to demonstrate professionalism in boiler installation. Regards, Jerry
I have the same type project planned and had the same boiler in the plan. Can't thank you enough for posting this install video. It will be a great reference for when I start.
Thank you. Very informative and a pleasure to see a professional plumber in action. I am a do it yourselfer and this video has answered a lot of questions. Be well.
I have been at this thirty years and I just learned a couple tricks watching you, Your right about one thing and that's keep it simple and your boiler will last forever, Thank you for making this movie it was very helpful Ed owner of BHA virginia,
Edwards Burns, there are not enough words to express my gratitude in your comments. It is a pleasure to hear that I was helpful, which was the sole intent of me making the video; to pass on professionalism in the way it should be done in the boiler heating industry. Best Regards, Jerry
You’re right not your right , when in doubt put you are in front of what you want to say if it sounds right than you can use you’re. When you use your in the context in your comment it’s showing possession or ownership like your car or your house , it’s not your right it’s the old timer in this video that’s correct about keeping it simple . You can thank me later for pointing this out and preventing people from laughing at you behind your back . No need to tell me how great I am , that I have saved you from many embarrassing moments with family and friends , and you don’t have to offer me any money or gifts just the fact that you won’t look like a third grade drop out in front of your much smarter friends is my reward . God bless and have a blessed day , and go in peace but first let us give thanks and praise to me for being so great .
That is a thing of beauty Jerry! The manner in which you sweat pipes together is truly an art. When I was trained, my boss used a huge torch and dumped about half a roll of solder into each joint, his philosophy was more is always better. I did it that way for years until the first time I had to buy a roll of solder for myself! lol. I like your glove wiping technique as well. I never thought of that as I usually don't wear gloves, I have a wet rag on my shoulder. I am going to try that on my next plumbing job! It's refreshing to see there are people out there who still take pride in doing a good job. Your pride in what you do is obvious in this video. Great work, and thanks for sharing!
Nice installation. I commend you on your soldering skills and need for everything being neat, plumb and level. I also like the pump on the supply side of the boilers after the expansion tank. I must disagree with your comment below about residential systems and pump location. With 38 years of experience and an ex-service manager with about 27,000 accounts I have had too many air problems due to crazy piping in the system and resolved them with moving the circulator. When we installed boilers we started mounting the circulators per the circulator manufacturer's directions on every boiler job due to not being able to see the crazy piping that might exist in the system. The manufacturers directions on pump location changed about 1958 suggesting the circulator mounting to the supply side after the expansion tank connection to add pressure to the system. This will break the air bubbles into much smaller bubbles in the system so the air can get back to the boiler to be eliminated as they are much less buoyant. With the circulator pumping towards the tank you actually drop pressure in the system at the high points. This brings me to the second comment. If the inlet side of the circulator is pumping towards the tank you have lower pressure on the inlet side of the circulator. Also for every 2.31 ft vertically you go up in the system you lose 1 PSI. The auto vent on the stand pipe to the unit heater could actually suck some air into the system when the circulator starts. I saw that you raised the pressure from 12 psi to 19 PSI. That will help eliminate the above concerns but introduces another concern. Did you raise the air pressure in the tank as the pressure should be the same on both the water and tank pressure.If not you will prematurely fail the bladder in the tank due to being over extended and much more movement when the system water temperature is changing. 12 PSI is good for up to 2 story home and a basement. Not being negative just adding my 2 cents worth of opinion. With the quality of work you do and the eye to keep everything neat you are a top notch tech. Those qualities are hard to find today.
+tk032009 Thanks for your evaluation of my work, obviously you have taken some time in scrutinizing my comments and video. Your opinion is taken in high regard and I do certainly appreciate you mentioning about raising the pressure in the tank its makes a lot of sense, in which I will take into consideration on my next boiler project. Regards
Handyman268. I certainly appreciate the below comment, Regards, Jerry: From TheHandyman268 Hi just want to say thank you for sharing your Weil-Mclain boiler Action in motion. Great video ! When I saw it I said I just had to share this with my class .. I am a plumbing instructor in NYC when I wanted to show something on boilers to my students on the internet I bumped into your video . The students really enjoy this (great job). After watching it they ware very excited to work on the boiler we have here also a Weil-Mclain same make and model .. Thanks again and God bless you .....
Howdy Dale Vandrezee, Thanks for your comment! Right on, and excellent observation on your part, that particular schematic is indeed not correct in which I should of pointed that out some time ago because I did make the correction here when the I made "Wiring a Honeywell V8403E Zone Professionally" ua-cam.com/video/aUd-88_HwKs/v-deo.html. The correct wiring schematic also can be found here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/930318900348642/?type=3&theater Best Regards,Jerry
Beautiful pipe work. I would prefer to see a supply-mounted circulator, though, pumping away from the expansion tank (for better air entrapment, easier bleeding, and stronger flow).
97marqedman I certainly appreciate your comments, Thank You! In response to your excellent point: On residential low head applications I am not concerned about putting the circulator on the return or supply in relationship to the expansion tank; based on my over 40 years of installing and observing low head residential boilers, I consider this technical matter insignificant. On all high head residential and commercial projects I pump away from the expansion tank especially important with high head pumps. Best Regards!
Very Nice installation, I really like the way you have installed this Boiler . I was wondering if you have the drawings or anything which shows wiring install of Zone valve, Zone valve controls and connection to the boiler control module.
+TAL I Thank you! How to wire here ua-cam.com/video/aUd-88_HwKs/v-deo.html and control drawing here facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/pb.532619830118553.-2207520000.1452907551./930318900348642/?type=3&theater
Beautiful job. I have one comment however, at 17:31 in your video you show your schematic which is not correct. If the hw thermostat or either the hallway or the master bedroom switch on, all three zone valves will open since they are all in parallel. I think you probably meant to have one lead from zone value go to one thermostat. Easy to fix diagram.
Howdy Dale, Thanks for your comment! Right on, and excellent observation on your part, that particular schematic is indeed not correct in which I should of pointed that out some time ago because I did make the correction here when the I made "Wiring a Honeywell V8403E Zone Professionally" ua-cam.com/video/aUd-88_HwKs/v-deo.html. The correct wiring schematic can be found here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/930318900348642/?type=3&theater Best Regards,Jerry
You do a nice install but wiping your finger around a newly soldered joint may disturb it and cause a leak , I find its always best to use a soft dry cloth for this procedure and wipe around the joint softly.....👍
Yensabi, I certainly appreciate your comment, however, I have been sweating joints for over 60 years and I never had a problem as you described. These sweat joints I completed are in hospitals, schools and many other commercial facilities I have done in those years. Besides if you would observe closely I am using a green ape glove which I always use for sweating since they came on the market.
A lot of comments about the quality of the job and the neatness of the installation, of course his brother is a union mechanic ( taught to do things the right way) and I would guess he has some affiliation with unions also. 50 year plumber !
Amazing job Jerry. I really enjoyed your video. I have a Weil Mclain CGA Gold 4 which is about 17 years old. Two zones in the house but no zones valves installed on my return pipes. It's only the circulator, isolation valve and drain valve on each return pipe. What's the role of the zone valve and why the plumber didn't install it on mines? Thank you.
Tesha; "To each his own" as the saying goes, circulators are old school & zones valves are new school. One circulator will control multiple zone valves.
Jerry, it's a beautiful sight and fine workmanship job - my only question is did ya have to replace the existing zone valves, pumps, associated tree pipings and LV&line wiring? My thought is you could have simply disconnected&reconnected the piping at the pump discharge and the wiring from the old unit at the e-box. it would've saved your customer time&money. Zone internal balls valves and solenoids are made so much better than 25 years ago - and they're easy to swap out anyway - and modern wiring "never dies." Just a thought - no need to respond unless you feel I need a comeuppance if there was a good reason. Thanks for the Excellent Video production, too!
Geoff Geoff, Thank you for your comments. I think in terms of this: (1) Energy efficiency (e.g. Garage unit heater running wild) (2) Age of valves and appurtenances (3) Esthetics (4) Increased value to homeowner (e.g. new kitchen) (5) Trade Reputation (sloppy or high professional work) (6) Zone Manufacture (In my opinion Honeywell is the Best) (7) Installing material per code or manufacturers instruction (e.g. Expansion tank) (8) Future maintenance ease (9) For the record the Expansion tank, Back Flow Preventer and Pressure Reducer valve were reused on this project because they were new. (10) Simplicity (e.g. only one hose bib to blow off system) Over time they leak or fail. Study the photos below: See garage unit here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/1239286362785226/?type=3&theater See Before photo here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/1239279576119238/?type=3&theater See After photo here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/1239279286119267/?type=3&theater Bottom line: If the boiler piping and appurtenances were done right in the first installation I certainly would have considered just a change out. However to add to the nightmare that is already there would make the project unacceptable to me and others. I have had cases where owners wanted me only to install just the boiler and attach back as you indicated, I inform the owner Please do get someone else. I refuse to be involved with inferior installations. My installations have to be hospital quality work or I just will not do it. That is why I deal with high end clients that agree with me, if I am going to do it than we are going to do it right from the beginning. I trust my long comments meet your approval. Regards
The boiler itself comes pre-wired from the factory. The wiring that you see me doing is Figure 13 from the Honeywell V8043E Zone Valve installation manual: s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1350210220863/82233_PROD_FILE.pdf
Hello and I hope to have clean solder joints like this. One question would the thermostat for the aux heater for the garage be too close to the system and get false room temperature in the room? Thanks!
Sundown, In the 3 years since the boiler has been installed the homeowners have been completely happy with the location of the thermostat. When I installed it I shared your thoughts with the homeowner it was decided that it would be OK where it is located now. Thank you for your comment!
Thanks King, more here: Copper Fitting, Pipe, Soldering (Sweating) Procedure; Making a Bead by jerry Also click here: Beading a Brass Ball Valve - Soldering by jerry
SUPER NICE ! THANK YOU ! Novice here with a quick question. Why are some systems all steel piped, and some copper going to cast iron radiators. Is it ok to mix piping ? I picked up a couple of used crown boilers and would like to install them but I don't know which way to go. I want do a in floor radiant system in the basement and and I have some cast iron baserays for upstairs.
Uwe Toob, Thanks for Super Nice comment! Here is the codes that I endorse and follow fully in regards to mixed piping (dissimilar metals): 2009 International Residential Code P2905.17.1 Copper or copper-alloy tubing to galvanized steel pipe. Joints between copper or copper-alloy tubing and galvanized steel pipe shall be made with a brass fitting or dielectric fitting. The copper tubing shall be joined to the fitting in an approved manner, and the fitting shall be screwed to the threaded pipe. 2009 Uniform Plumbing Code 316.2.1 Copper Tubing to Screw Pipe Joints. Joints from copper tubing to threaded pipe shall be made by the use of brass adapter fittings. The joint between the copper tubing and the fitting shall be a soldered brazed flared, or pressed joint and the connection between the threaded pipe and the fitting shall be made with a standard pipe size screw joint. Solder shall conform to the require- ments of Section 316.1.3. Brazed joints shall conform to the requirements of Section 316.1.7. Flared joints shall conform to the requirements of Section 316.1.4. Pressed joints shall conform to the requirements of 316.1.9. 2009 International Mechanical Code 1203.1.1 Joints between different piping materials. Joints between different piping materials shall be made with approved adapter fittings. Joints between different metallic piping materials shall be made with approved dielectric fittings or brass converter fittings. Dissimilar Metals Mixing black iron pipe with copper could cause electrolysis or galvanic metal corrosion. This corrosion generates a small electrical current as a result of the two dissimilar metals and an electrolyte, water. This electrolysis can cause erosion of the metal, typically the black iron fittings. If you must join the two metals, a dielectric fitting should be used. The dielectric fitting separates the two metals and eliminates the chance of the galvanic corrosion.
Nakco Educational Great vid! Done properly to the end. Its too bad very few do this. Installers charge folks out the ass for all of these fittings they "should" be using but don't.
Great video! I installed a Utica boiler in my house 30 years ago. It has run trouble free except I've replaced the circulater and expansion tank. I'm thinking of replacing it because of it's age and I can't get a Utica replacement retail. I was wondering, what do you think of the quality of the Weil-McLain boilers? BTW I'm a retired pipefitter and really appreciate your piping job.
Thank you for your awesome comment. Weil Mclain boilers in my opinion are the top of the line, primo and are the Cadillac's of the industry. I have been installing them for over 40 years!
i currently have the Weil-McLain EG-35 boiler. i will be remodeling my basement and i would like to purchase something more compact and the CGA-5 Boiler seems a good fit. i wish you lived in NYC. i would call you to do the job for me.
@@nakco6025 : I have a two story house with a basement. the total baseboards heating fins in my house is about 80 feet. like i said before, i currently have the Weil-McLain EG-35 boiler and want to go compaq. should i install the CGA - 5, 6, or 7. thank you.
Performing a building BTU heat loss is the proper method in sizing a boiler. I apologize to you nivasyl, I can offer no other advice it has been my policy never to provide advice on something I have not physically seen. Sorry and I do appreciate your comments. Best Regards, jerry
Great job, Ive been installing boilers in Massachusetts for over thirty years and I never thought of prepiping before bring it to the job. Helps being in a garage I guess. Would you still do it if you had to bring the boiler into a basement down stairs?
Great job, thanks for sharing. I need a CGi-6 installed and this help me understand. I have a question? Just received the boiler, but the main 1 inch feeder/supply piping is not threaded, is this common or a factory issue? Thank you.
Dear Jerry I have two questions to ask in reference to the photograph in the 7/3/`6 dated cga5 actual installation. 1) I see two red colored gate (or globe) valves. Are these sweat or threaded? 2) Why did you need them? Why not just put a ball valve there? 3) Is the TACO pump a variable speed or 1 speed? If 1 speed why not use variable? Greatly appreciate you feedback if you could be as brief as possible. Sincerely Narayan
(1) The 1-1/4” sweat gate valves is what I had on hand at the time. (2) Our International Mechanical Code Section 1005 requires a shutoff valve in the supply and return piping(3) As delineated on the AutoCad drawing takeoff I normally use ball valves now (4) Shut both supply/return valves Off easy change out of circulator (5) Shut return valve off, easy blow down of air in system (6) The single speed Taco circulator comes with the manufacture package boiler at no extra cost It’s been standard for years for small residential installations. (7) Larger installations I prefer variable speed pumps.Thank you for your comment!!
1) I am in the process of installing a CGA-6 (Net BTU 12700) in my two story house. After seeing your video I am very tempted to not buy a variable speed pump and simply use the TACO 007 pump that will come with the boiler. It will be quite a savings. My house is total 3710 sq ft. with 4 zones. zone 1 covers 1 room (105 sqft), zones 2 and 3 cover 1 half each of level 1 (total 2340 sqft) and zone 4 covers top level 1265 sqft. When I did a heat loss calc, my house requires only around 112000 BTU. Jerry, can you please share your thoughts if you would stick with the TACO 007 that came with the boiler or if you would install a variable speed pump. Under worst case, I could always replace it later, but if the 007 works, that will be a great bonus to my cap-ex. I did a detailed head loss calculation prescribed by TACO and the total head loss came out 10ft and the flow requirement is about 12.7 gpm. 2) Weil Mclain also prescribes bypass piping to eliminate flue gas condensation. I am planning on a boiler bypass. I see it as a potential issue on cold startup since the volume content (relative to the water in the pipes) of these new boilers is significantly lower than 20 years ago. Have you done bypasses Jerry? This was the reason I asked you in my previous comment about why you were using gate/globe valves. I thought you were doing some kind of bypass piping. Or is the bypass even necessary for residential cast iron radiator applications (like my house)? Am I understanding correct that the flow adjustment using the balancing valves is a one time adjustment (assuming no other change to configuration and the valve positions)? In that case, I will do the flow adjustment at cold startup and perhaps remove the valve handles for good. Am I thinking correct Jerry? Thanks much for all your replies.
Mr. Lyer, I certainly appreciate you requesting knowledge from me, however, Please understand, years ago I made a professional stand not to give advice or diagnose on heating systems that I have not seen through my own personal visual physical observation. Therefore, the best advice I can give you is Google By-Pass piping and you will find a lot of good information there. Also there are a lot of good people over at heatinghelp.com that would more than happy to help you (click The Wall). Lastly, There must be someone in your area that can give you professional advice, isn't there? Best Regards, Jerry
Because they are Top of the Line and are the leading designer and manufacturer of hydronic comfort heating systems for residential, commercial and institutional buildings across America for over 100 years. In my many years of installing Weil Mclain, I have always had positive experience with Weil-Mclain, as the years go by, Weil Mclain just gets better; they are The Best There Is. Thanks for your comment JG.
@@JG-fx2ez No, using a bunch of residential circulators is in my opinion Old school. One residential circulator can handle a number of zone valves if piped and sized properly.
Ruben Leon Why in the world would you want to put a flow check valve on a heating system that has zone control valves such as the Honeywell V8403E zone valves I installed for this boiler?
Hvac 1 My apology I should of addressed that because it has been brought up before in below comments. The generic drawing obviously I did not use because I corrected it here when I did the work, an item I overlooked when I edited the video. Anyway the correct control drawing is here nakco.com/Control.Wiring.Diagram.pdf I commend you for your observation and compliment, Thanks!!
For small boiler applications I always install as shown. Without going into detail about it, I never install the feed water piping at the top where the automatic air vent is.
I am not aware of any boiler that comes with a built in low water cutoff, usually that is an accessory appurtenance. Our Code In Alaska is the IMC. (The Internal Mechanical Code) Section 1007.1 of the IMC states “All steam and hot water boilers shall be protected by a low water cut-off control.” However; Check your Jurisdiction local authority for amendments, our Anchorage Alaska municipality amendment states this: Every automatic hot-water heating, power boiler and package hot-water supply boiler shall be equipped with one low-water-level limit control with a manual reset interlocked to shut off the fuel supply, installed to prevent damage to the boiler and to permit testing of the control without draining the heating system except on boilers used in Group R Occupancies of less than six (6) units. However, a low water- flow limit control installed in the circulating water line may be used instead of the low-water-level limit control for the same purpose on coil-type boilers.
I have the same type of boiler, but it hasn't been turning on recently. No flame nothing. How might I fix it? I've tried shutting it off, checking the valves and etc.
I certainly appreciate you requesting knowledge from me, however, Please understand, years ago I made a professional stand not to give advice or diagnose on heating systems that I have not seen through my own personal visual physical observation. There must be someone in your area that can give you professional advice, isn't there? Best Regards, Jerry
Thank you for your comment. On small residential low head applications I am not concerned about putting the circulator on the return or supply in relationship to the expansion tank; based on my over 40 years of installing and observing low head residential boilers, I consider this technical matter insignificant. On all high head residential and commercial projects I pump away from the expansion tank especially important with high head pumps. Best Regards!
OK install, in a tight space buuuut....No air separator/ Air scoop?....Supply take-off for unit heater straight off top of vertical supply....right where the air is gonna go. No low point drain on unit heater coil, for service. And the soldering of your purge valve instead of threading it into a female tee (too expensive, I guess) is a pain for future servicemen, when it needs to be changed.
babalugatz, Thank you for your comment, I approved it for one reason and I do not want to be rude, however, others need to know. First off if you knew about boilers, Weil Mclain has a built in air scoop on this particular cast iron boiler, it is located inside of the boiler right where you see the auto vent installed. Second; the supply piping for the unit heater goes directly into the bottom of the unit heater & the return piping on the top as I have been installing for hospitals, schools, etc. for some 50 years. Air goes up and does not go down in a closed system unless vented. There is a Auto bleeder on the return piping at the top of the unit heater. Low point to drain the unit heater is located at the very close boiler in this very simple system. If the unit heater was located somewhere else in the building it would had a drain on it. Lastly to change the purge valve (hose bib), the boiler has to be drained no matter sweated or threaded. Personally myself I can change that sweated 1/2 hose bib as fast as a threaded unit. Besides to most professional service journeymen this is such an incidental that it shouldn't even be discussed. Regards, JerryP.S. Photo of the built-in air eliminator for the Weil Mclain can be found here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/852914278089105/?type=3&theater
As a 59 year old boiler man here I appreciate your video and common sense simple method. Thanks from a old guy. You sir are a true craftsman the pride in your trade really shows.
Scott you are indeed a gentlemen, Thanks for the kind words which is always nice coming from another trades person. Peace!
Very nice. My god finally its nice to see someone take there time , think!! , and show some pride in there work. Most people don't even understand or want to know how a heating system works or anything in there home let alone thinking an instal through like that. In todays time it seems not many people care anymore its all about time and speed. Nice work
Thanks Dave, words well said!!
To New York State: Since inception of this video you have been the top number one viewer consistently. I Thank all of you that has taken an interest in my efforts to demonstrate professionalism in boiler installation. Regards, Jerry
Wow, superb craftsmanship, very impressive.
Thanks, Guy
Im in the Boston, MA area and we have plenty of boilers in homes here. that's some of the best work I seen anywhere. Great Job
Thank You kindly Mike V. Happy New Year!!
Thank You for sharing your knowledge and your great craftsmanship.
Thank you, Mike F!
Very nice work.
Thank You!!
I have the same type project planned and had the same boiler in the plan. Can't thank you enough for posting this install video. It will be a great reference for when I start.
You are Welcome, Smokey!
That's not art, it's perfection! Fine as frog hair
Thank you. Very informative and a pleasure to see a professional plumber in action. I am a do it yourselfer and this video has answered a lot of questions. Be well.
Thank you!
Of all the boiler install videos, this is the best. Amazing workmanship. I learned a lot.
Thanks!
Just beautiful... Love the music and sound effects too lol
Thanks!!
Cleanest Honeywell zone valve wiring I have ever seen, and pretty solder joints too. I also like the high vent at the unit heater, nice work.
Thanks Fred!
Very nice work
Thanks!
I have been at this thirty years and I just learned a couple tricks watching you, Your right about one thing and that's keep it simple and your boiler will last forever, Thank you for making this movie it was very helpful Ed owner of BHA virginia,
Edwards Burns, there are not enough words to express my gratitude in your comments. It is a pleasure to hear that I was helpful, which was the sole intent of me making the video; to pass on professionalism in the way it should be done in the boiler heating industry. Best Regards, Jerry
You’re right not your right , when in doubt put you are in front of what you want to say if it sounds right than you can use you’re. When you use your in the context in your comment it’s showing possession or ownership like your car or your house , it’s not your right it’s the old timer in this video that’s correct about keeping it simple . You can thank me later for pointing this out and preventing people from laughing at you behind your back . No need to tell me how great I am , that I have saved you from many embarrassing moments with family and friends , and you don’t have to offer me any money or gifts just the fact that you won’t look like a third grade drop out in front of your much smarter friends is my reward . God bless and have a blessed day , and go in peace but first let us give thanks and praise to me for being so great .
stupendous job.. Thank you for showing us and as well sharing your knowledge. Absolutely stupendous
You are the best in the west. thank you
+Arshad Mahmood Thank You!
Thanks, Poland!
Beautiful work!!!
Great job! Sweet looking install.
Thanks, John!!
That was truly a state-of-the-art master piece.
Thanks for sharing your video!
Thanks Sammy, have a great day!
Thanks for the thoughts you have provided here.
You are Welcome, Electrician.
Thank you!
Artist in Motion- that's the truth. Enjoyed your "sweating" style.
You Sir are an artist, thanks for the vid brother!!
That is a thing of beauty Jerry! The manner in which you sweat pipes together is truly an art. When I was trained, my boss used a huge torch and dumped about half a roll of solder into each joint, his philosophy was more is always better. I did it that way for years until the first time I had to buy a roll of solder for myself! lol. I like your glove wiping technique as well. I never thought of that as I usually don't wear gloves, I have a wet rag on my shoulder. I am going to try that on my next plumbing job! It's refreshing to see there are people out there who still take pride in doing a good job. Your pride in what you do is obvious in this video. Great work, and thanks for sharing!
Copper Fitting, Pipe, Soldering (Sweating) Procedure; Making a Bead by jerry
Nice work.
+Rob HVAC Thanks!
Nice installation. I commend you on your soldering skills and need for everything being neat, plumb and level.
I also like the pump on the supply side of the boilers after the expansion tank. I must disagree with your comment below about residential systems and pump location. With 38 years of experience and an ex-service manager with about 27,000 accounts I have had too many air problems due to crazy piping in the system and resolved them with moving the circulator. When we installed boilers we started mounting the circulators per the circulator manufacturer's directions on every boiler job due to not being able to see the crazy piping that might exist in the system. The manufacturers directions on pump location changed about 1958 suggesting the circulator mounting to the supply side after the expansion tank connection to add pressure to the system. This will break the air bubbles into much smaller bubbles in the system so the air can get back to the boiler to be eliminated as they are much less buoyant. With the circulator pumping towards the tank you actually drop pressure in the system at the high points. This brings me to the second comment.
If the inlet side of the circulator is pumping towards the tank you have lower pressure on the inlet side of the circulator. Also for every 2.31 ft vertically you go up in the system you lose 1 PSI. The auto vent on the stand pipe to the unit heater could actually suck some air into the system when the circulator starts.
I saw that you raised the pressure from 12 psi to 19 PSI. That will help eliminate the above concerns but introduces another concern. Did you raise the air pressure in the tank as the pressure should be the same on both the water and tank pressure.If not you will prematurely fail the bladder in the tank due to being over extended and much more movement when the system water temperature is changing. 12 PSI is good for up to 2 story home and a basement.
Not being negative just adding my 2 cents worth of opinion. With the quality of work you do and the eye to keep everything neat you are a top notch tech. Those qualities are hard to find today.
+tk032009 Thanks for your evaluation of my work, obviously you have taken some time in scrutinizing my comments and video. Your opinion is taken in high regard and I do certainly appreciate you mentioning about raising the pressure in the tank its makes a lot of sense, in which I will take into consideration on my next boiler project. Regards
You must have read Dan holohan -pumping away
F@#$&% BRAVO....absolutely a beautiful install
Thank you Carlos
Handyman268. I certainly appreciate the below comment, Regards, Jerry:
From TheHandyman268
Hi just want to say thank you for sharing your Weil-Mclain boiler
Action in motion. Great video ! When I saw it I said I just had to share this with my class .. I am a plumbing instructor in NYC when I wanted to show something on boilers to my students on the internet I bumped into your video . The students really enjoy this (great job). After watching it they ware very excited to work on the boiler we have here also a Weil-Mclain same make and model .. Thanks again and God bless you .....
Thank you for video!
You are Welcome!!
Man you do awesome work.
Thank you!
Thanks!
nice job----from hvac guy in poland
Howdy Dale Vandrezee, Thanks for your comment! Right on, and excellent observation on your part, that particular schematic is indeed not correct in which I should of pointed that out some time ago because I did make the correction here when the I made "Wiring a Honeywell V8403E Zone Professionally" ua-cam.com/video/aUd-88_HwKs/v-deo.html. The correct wiring schematic also can be found here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/930318900348642/?type=3&theater Best Regards,Jerry
Beautiful pipe work. I would prefer to see a supply-mounted circulator, though, pumping away from the expansion tank (for better air entrapment, easier bleeding, and stronger flow).
97marqedman I certainly appreciate your comments, Thank You!
In response to your excellent point: On residential low head applications I am not concerned about putting the circulator on the return or supply in relationship to the expansion tank; based on my over 40 years of installing and observing low head residential boilers, I consider this technical matter insignificant. On all high head residential and commercial projects I pump away from the expansion tank especially important with high head pumps. Best Regards!
Very good Thank
Thanks, Su Vo!!
happy New years also to you and yours!
Thank you for taking the time to respond. no reply needed.
Very Nice installation, I really like the way you have installed this Boiler . I was wondering if you have the drawings or anything which shows wiring install of Zone valve, Zone valve controls and connection to the boiler control module.
+TAL I Thank you! How to wire here ua-cam.com/video/aUd-88_HwKs/v-deo.html and control drawing here facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/pb.532619830118553.-2207520000.1452907551./930318900348642/?type=3&theater
Heaven Shoals
Beautiful job. I have one comment however, at 17:31 in your video you show your schematic which is not correct. If the hw thermostat or either the hallway or the master bedroom switch on, all three zone valves will open since they are all in parallel. I think you probably meant to have one lead from zone value go to one thermostat. Easy to fix diagram.
Howdy Dale, Thanks for your comment! Right on, and excellent observation on your part, that particular schematic is indeed not correct in which I should of pointed that out some time ago because I did make the correction here when the I made "Wiring a Honeywell V8403E Zone Professionally" ua-cam.com/video/aUd-88_HwKs/v-deo.html. The correct wiring schematic can be found here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/930318900348642/?type=3&theater Best Regards,Jerry
You do a nice install but wiping your finger around a newly soldered joint may disturb it and cause a leak , I find its always best to use a soft dry cloth for this procedure and wipe around the joint softly.....👍
Yensabi, I certainly appreciate your comment, however, I have been sweating joints for over 60 years and I never had a problem as you described. These sweat joints I completed are in hospitals, schools and many other commercial facilities I have done in those years. Besides if you would observe closely I am using a green ape glove which I always use for sweating since they came on the market.
A lot of comments about the quality of the job and the neatness of the installation, of course his brother is a union mechanic ( taught to do things the right way) and I would guess he has some affiliation with unions also. 50 year plumber !
Thank you Mr. Krim .............facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants and www.nakco.com
Cool
Amazing job Jerry. I really enjoyed your video. I have a Weil Mclain CGA Gold 4 which is about 17 years old. Two zones in the house but no zones valves installed on my return pipes. It's only the circulator, isolation valve and drain valve on each return pipe. What's the role of the zone valve and why the plumber didn't install it on mines? Thank you.
Tesha; "To each his own" as the saying goes, circulators are old school & zones valves are new school. One circulator will control multiple zone valves.
Jerry, it's a beautiful sight and fine workmanship job - my only question is did ya have to replace the existing zone valves, pumps, associated tree pipings and LV&line wiring? My thought is you could have simply disconnected&reconnected the piping at the pump discharge and the wiring from the old unit at the e-box. it would've saved your customer time&money. Zone internal balls valves and solenoids are made so much better than 25 years ago - and they're easy to swap out anyway - and modern wiring "never dies." Just a thought - no need to respond unless you feel I need a comeuppance if there was a good reason. Thanks for the Excellent Video production, too!
Geoff Geoff, Thank you for your comments. I think in terms of this:
(1) Energy efficiency (e.g. Garage unit heater running wild)
(2) Age of valves and appurtenances
(3) Esthetics
(4) Increased value to homeowner (e.g. new kitchen)
(5) Trade Reputation (sloppy or high professional work)
(6) Zone Manufacture (In my opinion Honeywell is the Best)
(7) Installing material per code or manufacturers instruction (e.g. Expansion tank)
(8) Future maintenance ease
(9) For the record the Expansion tank, Back Flow Preventer and Pressure Reducer valve were reused
on this project because they were new.
(10) Simplicity (e.g. only one hose bib to blow off system) Over time they leak or fail.
Study the photos below:
See garage unit here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/1239286362785226/?type=3&theater
See Before photo here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/1239279576119238/?type=3&theater
See After photo here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/1239279286119267/?type=3&theater
Bottom line: If the boiler piping and appurtenances were done right in the first installation I certainly would have considered just a change out. However to add to the nightmare that is already there would make the project unacceptable to me and others. I have had cases where owners wanted me only to install just the boiler and attach back as you indicated, I inform the owner Please do get someone else. I refuse to be involved with inferior
installations. My installations have to be hospital quality work or I just will not do it. That is why I deal with high end clients that agree with me, if I am going to do it than we are going to do it right from the beginning.
I trust my long comments meet your approval.
Regards
If installing a Cwire for a nest thermostat. Where would one connect from the panel of this boiler to the thermostat?
Nice video. Just like to know how to wire inside the boiler.
The boiler itself comes pre-wired from the factory. The wiring that you see me doing is Figure 13 from the Honeywell V8043E Zone Valve installation manual: s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1350210220863/82233_PROD_FILE.pdf
Hello and I hope to have clean solder joints like this. One question would the thermostat for the aux heater for the garage be too close to the system and get false room temperature in the room?
Thanks!
Sundown, In the 3 years since the boiler has been installed the homeowners have been completely happy with the location of the thermostat. When I installed it I shared your thoughts with the homeowner it was decided that it would be OK where it is located now. Thank you for your comment!
Thanks King, more here: Copper Fitting, Pipe, Soldering (Sweating) Procedure; Making a Bead by jerry
Also click here: Beading a Brass Ball Valve - Soldering by jerry
SUPER NICE ! THANK YOU ! Novice here with a quick question. Why are some systems all steel piped, and some copper going to cast iron radiators. Is it ok to mix piping ? I picked up a couple of used crown boilers and would like to install them but I don't know which way to go. I want do a in floor radiant system in the basement and and I have some cast iron baserays for upstairs.
Uwe Toob, Thanks for Super Nice comment!
Here is the codes that I endorse and follow fully in regards to mixed piping (dissimilar metals):
2009 International Residential Code
P2905.17.1 Copper or copper-alloy tubing to galvanized steel pipe. Joints between copper or copper-alloy tubing and galvanized steel pipe shall be made with a brass fitting or dielectric fitting. The copper tubing shall be joined to the fitting in an approved manner, and the fitting shall be screwed to the threaded pipe.
2009 Uniform Plumbing Code
316.2.1 Copper Tubing to Screw Pipe Joints. Joints from copper tubing to threaded pipe shall be made by the use of brass adapter fittings. The joint between the copper tubing and the fitting shall be a soldered brazed flared, or pressed joint and the connection between the threaded pipe and the fitting shall be made with a standard pipe size screw joint. Solder shall conform to the require- ments of Section 316.1.3. Brazed joints shall conform to the requirements of Section 316.1.7. Flared joints shall conform to the requirements of Section 316.1.4. Pressed joints shall conform to the requirements of 316.1.9.
2009 International Mechanical Code
1203.1.1 Joints between different piping materials. Joints between different piping materials shall be made with approved adapter fittings. Joints between different metallic piping materials shall be made with approved dielectric fittings or brass converter fittings.
Dissimilar Metals
Mixing black iron pipe with copper could cause electrolysis or galvanic metal corrosion. This corrosion generates a small electrical current as a result of the two dissimilar metals and an electrolyte, water. This electrolysis can cause erosion of the metal, typically the black iron fittings. If you must join the two metals, a dielectric fitting should be used. The dielectric fitting separates the two metals and eliminates the chance of the galvanic corrosion.
Nakco Educational Great vid! Done properly to the end. Its too bad very few do this. Installers charge folks out the ass for all of these fittings they "should" be using but don't.
***** Thanks Ben!
Great video! I installed a Utica boiler in my house 30 years ago. It has run trouble free except I've replaced the circulater and expansion tank. I'm thinking of replacing it because of it's age and I can't get a Utica replacement retail. I was wondering, what do you think of the quality of the Weil-McLain boilers? BTW I'm a retired pipefitter and really appreciate your piping job.
Thank you for your awesome comment. Weil Mclain boilers in my opinion are the top of the line, primo and are the Cadillac's of the industry. I have been installing them for over 40 years!
i currently have the Weil-McLain EG-35 boiler. i will be remodeling my basement and i would like to purchase something more compact and the CGA-5 Boiler seems a good fit. i wish you lived in NYC. i would call you to do the job for me.
As with others in the comments received, yours is outstanding, I humbly Thank You for the kind words!
@@nakco6025 : I have a two story house with a basement. the total baseboards heating fins in my house is about 80 feet. like i said before, i currently have the Weil-McLain EG-35 boiler and want to go compaq. should i install the CGA - 5, 6, or 7. thank you.
Performing a building BTU heat loss is the proper method in sizing a boiler. I apologize to you nivasyl, I can offer no other advice it has been my policy never to provide advice on something I have not physically seen. Sorry and I do appreciate your comments. Best Regards, jerry
Great job, Ive been installing boilers in Massachusetts for over thirty years and I never thought of prepiping before bring it to the job. Helps being in a garage I guess. Would you still do it if you had to bring the boiler into a basement down stairs?
I try to prefab as much as possible, no matter the location. Thanks for your comment. Regards!
Great job, thanks for sharing. I need a CGi-6 installed and this help me understand. I have a question? Just received the boiler, but the main 1 inch feeder/supply piping is not threaded, is this common or a factory issue? Thank you.
Not aware that there is a 1" feeder/supply pipe in boiler shipped. Thanks for your comment.
Dear Jerry
I have two questions to ask in reference to the photograph in the 7/3/`6 dated cga5 actual installation.
1) I see two red colored gate (or globe) valves. Are these sweat or threaded?
2) Why did you need them? Why not just put a ball valve there?
3) Is the TACO pump a variable speed or 1 speed? If 1 speed why not use variable?
Greatly appreciate you feedback if you could be as brief as possible.
Sincerely
Narayan
(1) The 1-1/4” sweat gate valves is what I had on hand at the time.
(2) Our International Mechanical Code Section 1005 requires a shutoff valve in the supply and return piping(3) As delineated on the AutoCad drawing takeoff I normally use ball valves now
(4) Shut both supply/return valves Off easy change out of circulator
(5) Shut return valve off, easy blow down of air in system
(6) The single speed Taco circulator comes with the manufacture package boiler at no extra cost It’s been standard for years for small residential installations.
(7) Larger installations I prefer variable speed pumps.Thank you for your comment!!
1) I am in the process of installing a CGA-6 (Net BTU 12700) in my two story house. After seeing your video I am very tempted to not buy a variable speed pump and simply use the TACO 007 pump that will come with the boiler. It will be quite a savings. My house is total 3710 sq ft. with 4 zones. zone 1 covers 1 room (105 sqft), zones 2 and 3 cover 1 half each of level 1 (total 2340 sqft) and zone 4 covers top level 1265 sqft. When I did a heat loss calc, my house requires only around 112000 BTU. Jerry, can you please share your thoughts if you would stick with the TACO 007 that came with the boiler or if you would install a variable speed pump.
Under worst case, I could always replace it later, but if the 007 works, that will be a great bonus to my cap-ex.
I did a detailed head loss calculation prescribed by TACO and the total head loss came out 10ft and the flow requirement is about 12.7 gpm.
2) Weil Mclain also prescribes bypass piping to eliminate flue gas condensation. I am planning on a boiler bypass. I see it as a potential issue on cold startup since the volume content (relative to the water in the pipes) of these new boilers is significantly lower than 20 years ago. Have you done bypasses Jerry? This was the reason I asked you in my previous comment about why you were using gate/globe valves. I thought you were doing some kind of bypass piping. Or is the bypass even necessary for residential cast iron radiator applications (like my house)? Am I understanding correct that the flow adjustment using the balancing valves is a one time adjustment (assuming no other change to configuration and the valve positions)? In that case, I will do the flow adjustment at cold startup and perhaps remove the valve handles for good. Am I thinking correct Jerry?
Thanks much for all your replies.
Mr. Lyer,
I certainly appreciate you requesting knowledge from me, however, Please understand, years ago I made a professional stand not to give advice or diagnose on heating systems that I have not seen through my own personal visual physical observation.
Therefore, the best advice I can give you is Google By-Pass piping and you will
find a lot of good information there. Also there are a lot of good people over at heatinghelp.com that would more than happy to help you (click The Wall). Lastly, There must be someone in your area that can give you professional advice, isn't there?
Best Regards,
Jerry
Are Weil McLain boilers your go to boilers and why?
Because they are Top of the Line and are the leading designer and manufacturer of hydronic comfort heating systems for residential, commercial and institutional buildings across America for over 100 years. In my many years of installing Weil Mclain, I have always had positive experience with Weil-Mclain, as the years go by, Weil Mclain just gets better; they are The Best There Is. Thanks for your comment JG.
@@nakco6025 , thank you for your response. I also noticed you used some valves ! Do you ever use circulators instead ?
@@JG-fx2ez No, using a bunch of residential circulators is in my opinion Old school. One residential circulator can handle a number of zone valves if piped and sized properly.
Ruben Leon Why in the world would you want to put a flow check valve on a heating system that has zone control valves such as the Honeywell V8403E zone valves I installed for this boiler?
Nice job I do see your generic control wiring is not correct.
Hvac 1 My apology I should of addressed that because it has been brought up before in below comments. The generic drawing obviously I did not use because I corrected it here when I did the work, an item I overlooked when I edited the video. Anyway the correct control drawing is here nakco.com/Control.Wiring.Diagram.pdf I commend you for your observation and compliment, Thanks!!
Jerry.....is it possible to get your web site address? To see the AutoCad drawings you mentioned.
Thanks and great job!!
nakco.com/admin/cga5.html
Pardon me sir, would you happen to know if you can direct vent McClain cga-5-spdn to a chimney liner?
Greg, Thanks for your question, however it is not my place to say, please Call the Weil-Mclain factory ask them: Phone (219) 879-6561 Thanks.
When should maintenance be done to this boiler after installation?
www.weil-mclain.com/sites/default/files/field-file/cga-users-manual_1.pdf
can the fresh water feed piping be connected on top where the automatic air vent is, rather than down below on the return piping?
For small boiler applications I always install as shown. Without going into detail about it, I never install the feed water piping at the top where the automatic air vent is.
Is a low water cutoff required or is it built into the boiler ?
I am not aware of any boiler that comes with a built in low water cutoff, usually that is an accessory appurtenance.
Our Code In Alaska is the IMC. (The Internal Mechanical Code)
Section 1007.1 of the IMC states “All steam and hot water boilers shall be protected by a low water cut-off control.”
However;
Check your Jurisdiction local authority for amendments, our Anchorage Alaska municipality amendment states this:
Every automatic hot-water heating, power boiler and package hot-water supply boiler shall be equipped with one low-water-level limit control with a manual reset
interlocked to shut off the fuel supply, installed to prevent damage to the boiler and to permit testing of the control without draining the heating system except on
boilers used in Group R Occupancies of less than six (6) units. However, a low water- flow limit control installed in the circulating water line may be used instead
of the low-water-level limit control for the same purpose on coil-type boilers.
I have the same type of boiler, but it hasn't been turning on recently. No flame nothing. How might I fix it? I've tried shutting it off, checking the valves and etc.
I certainly appreciate you requesting knowledge from me, however, Please understand, years ago I made a professional stand not to give advice or diagnose on heating systems that I have not seen through my own personal visual physical observation. There must be someone in your area that can give you professional advice, isn't there? Best Regards, Jerry
I can understand that. Liability issues. Well thanks for the video and have a great day.
Thanks for your understanding and especially your comment about my video
What is your website to see the drawing you are holding
nakco.com/Control.Wiring.Diagram.pdf plus www.nakco.com/admin/cga5.html Thanks for viewing
Thank you so much. With these drawing and videos I truly believe I install new boilers or swap
Boilers and zone valve . Truly god bless
@@mr.handyman6232 You are Welcome!
You use the boiler to hold backup?
So what are you asking?
Does it matter if the expansion tank is on the return
?
Thank you for your comment. On small residential low head applications I am not concerned about putting the circulator on the return or supply in relationship to the expansion tank; based on my over 40 years of installing and observing low head residential boilers, I consider this technical matter insignificant. On all high head residential and commercial projects I pump away from the expansion tank especially important with high head pumps. Best Regards!
OK install, in a tight space buuuut....No air separator/ Air scoop?....Supply take-off for unit heater straight off top of vertical supply....right where the air is gonna go. No low point drain on unit heater coil, for service. And the soldering of your purge valve instead of threading it into a female tee (too expensive, I guess) is a pain for future servicemen, when it needs to be changed.
babalugatz, Thank you for your comment, I approved it for one reason and I do not want to be rude, however, others need to know. First off if you knew about boilers, Weil Mclain has a built in air scoop on this particular cast iron boiler, it is located inside of the boiler right where you see the auto vent installed. Second; the supply piping for the unit heater goes directly into the bottom of the unit heater & the return piping on the top as I have been installing for hospitals, schools, etc. for some 50 years. Air goes up and does not go down in a closed system unless vented. There is a Auto bleeder on the return piping at the top of the unit heater. Low point to drain the unit heater is located at the very close boiler in this very simple system. If the unit heater was located somewhere else in the building it would had a drain on it. Lastly to change the purge valve (hose bib), the boiler has to be drained no matter sweated or threaded. Personally myself I can change that sweated 1/2 hose bib as fast as a threaded unit. Besides to most professional service journeymen this is such an incidental that it shouldn't even be discussed. Regards, JerryP.S. Photo of the built-in air eliminator for the Weil Mclain can be found here: facebook.com/Nushagak.Consultants/photos/a.532637280116808.1073741828.532619830118553/852914278089105/?type=3&theater
How do u find the cp number
Its should be on the nomenclature plate of the boiler or check with manufacture.
cant wait until technology allows a download of expertise to a human, it will be another small step/ giant leap
Nice Comment, Builderman. Thanks!!
Prescriptive shop drawing for this boiler dated 7/3/16: www.nakco.com/admin/cga5.html
Disregard the generic drawing in video and use this control drawing I updated nakco.com/Control.Wiring.Diagram.pdf