Paul you are a gift to the automotive repair industry. Some day when I own a shop it will be a requirement that every tech that works for me watches every video on your premium site. It literally took me from being a lube tech to being the best diagnostic tech at my work in 6 months. I work with guys that have been doing this 30 years that don’t know a fraction of the stuff I have learned from you in the last year.
Oh man, that is so awesome and humbling to hear. I look forward to that day Ryan! (When you own your own shop) and all of your techs are learning from me, and we get your name listed on my Shop Directory! It is a gift to hear this type of feedback. Thank you so much!
Scannerdanner another excellent informative video I was checking out one from 8 years ago you were diagnosing lean codes play Chevy Suburban that helps me with my Chevy Tahoe you're a wizard man and a genuinely fantastic dude keep sharing the knowledge and happy Easter to you and the family brother
Your rant is spot on not just for the automotive industry. The printing and graphics industry fails in similar ways. A shop (more likely the sales rep) will not want to charge a customer to fix there poorly created files even though the most experienced person spends hours of time using very expensive software and workstation to correct the errors. Shop management doesn't like to make waves and make a customer made with additional charges. This is false logic on their part as they may have very well losing money on the whole job. Many a business has gone bankrupt with plenty of customers.
Thanks Paul for your video. Freeze frame date should always to be considered in the beginning of the diagnosis. That makes a guide to follow. God bless you and your family.
Double Dang!! Is this a new vid? Back at Pete’s, a SnapOn scanner, using an amp clamp and the scope. Paul at his best, ranting the way we love it. Caleb editing and adding the past cases. Cardboard?? Scanner Danner is back!!! Yaaaah!!!
If that were my personal truck, It would be getting a pump, driver module and relay. Last tow bill I had was $250. That pretty much covers parts cost for 1 tow.
If it's a customers car and you do that, what happens when that doesn't fix it? As long as that conversation is had with the customer, then you're good. The problem us, a lot of shops out there would do all of that, but they'll sell the job as "this IS your problem". Then when it doesn't fix it, the customer is pissed!
@@ScannerDanner Unfortunately for the customer, it's an intermittent problem. The truck is not reliable as it is and cannot be trusted. It will have to be completely broken, or caught when its intermittently broken to be a 99% repair fix. For my personal truck, I am aware it will be a pretty good chance its fixed. That could be sold to a customer in a shop as well as the same.
The thing i really love about this Channel is that you take the time to reply to so many comments. There also seems to be many knowledgeable people in the comment section, who can be very helpful as well. My only complaint is with UA-cam. I had left a comment late last night and wondered if Paul had replied. At first i thought it had disappeared but found it way down in the comments and sure enough Paul had left a reply. Is that something on my end i don't have set up properly on YT that comments are all jumbled up with some comments that are relatively new appearing amongst comments that are days old? If anyone has an answer, it seems that i will have to go looking for this comment.
So there are a few things you can do on your end. One would be to make sure your settings are set for push notifications (I think it's called that), where you will get an email when someone comments back to you. The second would be within the YT app itself. Or on a browser on a PC it's the same, you will see the comments have two options to sort them. One says Top comments and the other says Newest. Select newest and then you can scroll down and find your own comment easier. The top comment thing is a YT thing and it's all based on their algorithms. How many likes your comment got will move it toward the top and also if you have a channel of your own with many followers, that bumps you up too. There is nothing us creators can do to change this. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner Thanks a lot, Paul. Unfortunately, I never seem to get many upvotes to any comment i make on any Channel. LOL At least the best guy on YT replies. How you find the time but i am positive the rest of your faithful followers appreciate it as much as i do.
On your talk about charging.. I say: You MUST charge them even if you don't find something.. The fix for that is to set those expectations up front. Really question them on how often it's acting up and if it only did it once--- then just cut them off right there and tell them to keep driving it until it gets worse. That's my only fix for intermittent issues--- you just have to turn them away until they are a persistent issue... OR you make sure that the customer knows that you may not find anything because it's not happening very often... Many customers will agree to that up front and tell you to look anyway; then when it comes time to bill-- they won't get any unwanted surprises.. You set that expectation and tried to turn them away first...... This is exactly what I do to my woman, my mother and my sister.. :) ... I don't charge them to work on it anyway.. but I still set that expectation and turn them away often.. Just keep driving it-- I'll fix it when it's actually broken. And typically-- the thing will finally break and then it's a quick easy fix and I never had to chase my tail on a rare intermittent fault. so again: TLDR Try to turn them away if their intermittent issue isn't happening often.. Then if they insist on you looking anyway; just let them know that it still costs, even if you can't find anything, because you can't recreate the fault. This way they know exactly what the agreement is. That is the answer for this situation
This scenario highlights a common issue in our industry. Customers often end up with hefty repair bills if mechanics only address the trouble code without thoroughly diagnosing the issue. Imagine how frustrating it would be for the customer to pay a significant amount, only to realize shortly afterward that the problem persists. Additionally, the unnecessary replacement of parts results in wastage as those perfectly good parts are discarded, contributing to landfill buildup.
Well good parts aren’t discarded. Techs don’t throw away parts that they replaced via parts cannon. You can’t clear the code and give it to the customer after replacing the part… it needs to have run a few trips or even a drive cycle and the code needs to clear itself. Clearing a code and returning vehicle to a customer without running a drive cycle is ridiculous. The customer ends up taking the vehicle after a repair drives it to their lake house and the check engine light comes back on . If the part you used is from Napa even if it’s a good diagnosis that parts gunna fail. Electrical components must come from the dealer . A shop that uses a Napa part that’s electrical is only taking your money. In my opinion… the suppliers that sell electrical related components to Napa don’t pay nearly a 1/10 of the money for R&D . Electrical 100% has to be replaced with OEM
Love your videos i have learned so much from you I appreciate the amazing content.Just curious why don’t you drop it into a lower gear to do WOT testing? this allows you to do WOT Tests for longer while reducing your speed.
I have an 06 w/4.2 and mine was/is the same. I replaced the FPM and a week later same thing also I saw that the 'fix' according to Ford is a stand off on the FPM is recommended. I then replaced the fuel filter same thing a week later. 😢
17:00 There should be a spacer between the FPDM and the frame. The aluminum touching the steel caused the aluminum to corrode away, so the replacement FPDMs should have come with studs to space the module away from the frame.
Noticed that the freeze frame data showed at 144 degrees on the coolant sensor. Maybe the problem will show up on a cold drive away load during warm up driving.
Hi ScannerDanner! I had a Hyndai Getz 1.4 2008 with my car. Problem with the gas pump, I was driving to visit my daughter's family, the journey was 170 km long and the engine stopped suddenly, I checked the fuses, everything was fine, then I took a 20 min break and was able to drive the car again for 20 min. I drove it. for 5 hours, before major intersections I took a break beforehand so that the car would not stop at the intersection. When we arrived at the destination, we bought a new gasoline pump, I replaced it with a new one and the problem disappeared.Of course, you have a more complicated injection system that you diagnose, such systems are found on most injectors that inject directly into the cylinder, which also have a high-pressure gasoline pump.
That is exactly right, I only wanted to do brakes and suspensions because my shop says "I can't charge my customer because you don't know what's wrong with it" This is before ever looking at a car. So screw it, take it somewhere else, no so-n-so, "parts cannon specialist", will fix it, and thousands dollars and days later and it's still broke...I don't miss it at all.
I did fix my 2010 Dodge Nitro that you helped me on... about the "APP2" data dropping out periodically.. and the limp mode issue.... I installed that new water pump and it has never had an issue since. Ivan at pine hollow.. and Eric O at south main auto both told me the same thing you did... that APP2 data drops out because it's a type of diagnostic test that the ECM sends out every second or so.......... Pretty weird: Because I talked to 2 different guys who rebuild ECM's for a living-- You just mail it in to them: and they didn't even know this, about APP2 dropout. They told me that it was unfixable and that I would have to just buy a new ECM. :) .. That shows how cutting edge youtuber diag's knowledge is.. and how reliable you guys are. bravo ... Saved me from buying a $600 ECM
Lean and Rich trim on a V engine with a MAF system means it's not breathing well on the negative bank, but we're only 2 minutes In so I'll wait and see. :)
Love these vids. Paul, Ivan, Eric O, and Wes. been watching you all for years. And about diagnostic time, YES.. I would love to have a skilled diagnostician in my area. Unfortunately my cars have no issues to diagnose yet. It's both a blessing and a curse! Until something cool breaks, I guess I'll stick to brake services and Lube/Oil/Filters on my own cars.
Thank you Paul for the video! Even though you didn't get the result you were looking for, it's OK because it was still a great refresher for returnless fuel systems. Hey I had an interesting one today to share with you. I have a customer with a 2010 chevy tahoe police that was stuck lean and running poorly on bank 2 after it was put in the ditch. Ended up finding the wiring to the pre-cat o2 but it happened in such a way that it also fried the sensor as well. I came to find out the two damaged wires were for the 12 volt ignition and the other was the signal return to the pcm. Pretty fun one for me as I usually don't see many o2 sensor failures. I just got a call back from the customer a few minutes ago saying the truck is running better than it ever has since he has owned it so that was pretty cool.
I was thinking perhaps fuel quality or contamination. Here in Canada, we transition from winter to summer blend typically around april 1. I've seen my car fuel volatility behave weird around this time of the year and mess with evap properties (2015 chevy cruze for perspective). Anyways, I also watched a "watch JR go" video where a newish gm suv where the car would not start and a total fuel screw up happened and the engine would not start. The owner put a full tank of premium when it was really near zero fuel level. They substituted fuel with carb clearer and the engine was engaging.
Same and I rarely use it. A recent example. I have a B2S2 O2 stuck rich code on my truck. Freeze frame data shows thr other 3 O2 sensors, just not the B2S2 😂 useless!
I had an 06 f-150 that would have an extended crank when it was hot and eventually stopped starting at all when it was hot. Finally it Stalled out and came to me. Cold starts were never an issue, but when it was hot the fuel pump would not turn on. Checked the FPCM and had good outputs and power and ground at the pump was good, but found corrosion in the power wire about the same spot you had it. Replaced pump and module (customer said he knew they were a known problem and wanted it changed.) Upon further inspection of the pump connector, the power wire pin of the fuel pump actually had melted plastic all over the bottom of it. I was wondering if that melted plastic was a symptom of the corroded wire causing it to get hot as I’ve always been told a motor will pull pull amperage until the fuse blows or a wire burns up.
For all we know, your FRP could be going well above 75 psi when you are commanding the fuel pump duty cycle to 40% and above. Look at the FRP voltage when it hits 75 psi, it's at 5 volts, meaning the sensor is capped out.
Well Paul, you need to change the aerial by the looks of it brother. Ha ha! Inside jokes from the UK. Disclaimer! For people that don't know about cars, when I find the problem, I like to say that you need to change the aerial or door handle to another fitter as a joke. You DO NOT change them.
My 5.4 285,000 miles still runs like a top no issues what so ever. but the dam frame tapped out. I can double fist the frame on both sides just past the front leaf perch
Paul, I was wondering, could you give us a few examples as to how to charge for these types of problems? Would that be your regular hourly rate X the amount of hours spent? Because I myself also struggle with something like this every once in a while. And where is this feeling of guilt coming from? The garage I worked at didn't charge and I also have guilt trips charging for something that I "didn't fix" but that I was looking for. It's ridiculous. Doctors? They do NOT care about these issues as you pay a hefty bill for just showing up to them. Wrong or not, you're billed the moment you go up to the reception. It's ridiculous. But us? We are expected to either know everything and fix everything immediately or to work for free OR charge for the actual repair once we figure out what it was, forsaking the diagnostic time spent to find the issue.
I've worked at those shops who "can't charge for diag time". When I overheard the shop owner andmanager training the new SA say " sometimes what you charge and the hours don't match, always pay the tech" it was like music to my ears.
Hey SD, fuel pump driver module duty cycle signals are as follows: 20%=the FPDM us receiving an invalid duty cycle from the PCM 40%= the FPDM is receiving an invalid event notification signal from the RCM 60%= functioning normally 80%= the FPDM is detecting a concern with the secondary circuits(feedback signals) Hope this helps
After watching your videos, and other studies I tried to diagnose fishbite misfire on 2002 lesabre I looked at vacuum leak ,secondary ignition (lean waveform), fuel pump waveform and other things. Turns out the fuel pump was consuming 2.5 less amps. (Using amp probe). New pump =secondary waveform looked right.
I really like the format of this video. Inserting the older clip for reference and wiring diagram pop outs are outstanding. Nice job Caleb! You’re ok too Paul. Lol
I fell asleep listening to the video and I woke up because I thought someone was tapping on my window to wake me up when I heard the tapping on the FICM. I worked hard, ate dinner and then out like a light. Not the video, I.e. It’s me, not you. :-)
Freez frame showing 53% FT while at the same time showing 7.37g/s MAF at idle . I would expect around 5g/s for this engine , basically MAF is over-reading by around 50% .. common on Fords of this vintage and can be intermittent.. i would love to hear back from u man
Yaa around 20% , good point, there is a few confusing pids in the frame, like barometric pressure, which i believe should reset KOEOFF to what ever the MAP reading and u guys around sea level i believe it cannot go that low even on the worst days of the year. And other stuff
I have an Audi 2018 Q3. I went to Audi to get the oil changed. They are unable to open the hood. They have tried everything they think they know and suggest breaking the hood to open it. It does not make sense to me. The repairs will cost 1000's$$. What Tips can you offer? Or can you please make a video about it?
Kevin Markel was a trainer for snap on his advice was if your customer is not willing to pay for a minimum 2 hrs you should walk away his theory was they are not serious about maintaining their vehicle it takes time for diagnostic tests and that’s it charge for it !!!!!!!
What can we learn as technicians or learning technicians from Pauls video , its have a diagnostic process and stick to it and if you dont work for yourself make sure your employer is up to speed with this or you follow his or hers ,
I've been in that situation so many times. In the shop I do the hard stuff and the other techs flag more hours and end up being paid more with the gravy jobs.
I've just watched "The One Automotive Lab Scope Video You NEED to watch! (Mercedes Limp Mode) from Royalty Auto Service. The key takeaway was on how tight the voltage parameters especially on an APP sensor can be, and OEM data needed to fix the issue. My questions are the following: What I would like have seen in this case study is a visual inspection of the pins and connector at the recent replace FPM. Living in a dessert environment that rusty truck frame throws up all kind of alarm bells which may be not an issue to people who live in the rust belt. And the location of the module is not the most friendliest one for electronics. Was the swapped part an OEM or aftermarket? Maybe the other part was good and the problem is elsewhere. Could it be a software issue or a bad design? Can you always trust one scanner manufacturer for solving every problem? Has anybody checked for TSB's regarding the "fail often" FPM or these grouped codes? But the most important question for a DIY and a potential PISSED OFF customer in an absolute worse case scenario, what do to when in a couple days my smog test is due and I get the "CHECK ENGINE" light come back on while driving to the smog place? So far, I've paid for 2 diags and a parts replacement and won't pass smog? In order to keep the truck on the road, I would have to pay for a failed smog test to keep my registration current, get a 30day (depending on the state) extension to have the truck fixed at a "certified smog repair facility"($$$$) if I can't fix it myself. I sure like to find out what the fix was.
I will NEVER unplug a connector and inspect terminals when I'm trying to duplicate a fault. You can fix pin fitment issues and or component pin issues (internal) by doing that and then ruin your chance of duplicating the fault
@@ScannerDanner I would certainly agree with that while doing the diagnosis but when all else has failed it could be a last resort to just take a look and make sure. I never worked in the automotive field. I worked in the railroad industry (track maintenance equipment) repairing mostly Fairmont (Harsco) Tampers. BUT there were a lot of modules and ribbon cables involved, so sometimes you could run across something that had bent/damaged pins to the point you sometimes wondered "how did this ever work properly". Without someone understanding what the machine does (lifting and aligning track), you can't do a thorough test in a shop bay without putting the machine to work either.
Another nice video, thanks for taking the time to share the info. On a side note completely off base Paul, it is nice to see the countryside you have where you live when on your road tests. Ivan @ PHAD has nice scenery too.
Where Ivan lives is amazingly beautiful. My younger brother went to Penn State and we use to be up there all the time! It is about 3 hours away from me to the east and is up in the Appalachian mountains.
Don’t know if it’s been said but the EGR System Module is what houses the MAP/Baro sensor and it shares the same reference voltage with the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor as well as the power steering pressure sensor. Possibly an issue with that reference?
Heres how I would have diagnosed it. I would have cleared the codes and drove it again. That P0191 code is suspicious. I would check the wiring around the sensor and replace the pressure sensor since a range circuit code points to an electrical problem at the sensor.
Hello danner I have a problem with my 2010 Chevy cobalt with no crank no start and no communication with ecm can u please help me with this situation I watch your videos all the time about no crank no start
Only going to get worse for auto repair industry, especially non dealer independents. Manufacturers losing money like an ugly gone fat callgirl, high loan interest, crazy pricing, no price control on foreign new build parts. Who brain us to believe Mexico and China build high quality new oem build parts Manufacturers go even more stupid, demanding even cheaper supplied parts. Wait until wire insulation that lasts longer than 6 months is a high priced option Who's willing to pay for a $100,000 pickup that has poor to non existent wire, connector, electrical system protection against chemically or ocean salted roads and the day after end of warranty, major corrosion failures. No competent techs left to repair See lots of the newish dead dogs setting out behind dealer service shops waiting for the next parts thrower....month after month Stelanntis is dead already, just waiting for Bankruptcy Court to save the banks on the original buyout Great vid Paul. Techs of your caliber technical knowledge honesty good business sense will survive Parts throwers will slide back down the food chain 😊 The parts houses kids with their code readers make a commission fortune off the weak of mind Corporate Capitalism Baby😅
I have an 2006 5.4. .. That Idle's nice and smooth and fuel trims within range at idle. But . When I do a wide open throttle test , the engine climbs very lean +52 reading on bank 2 only, And I get a squealing noise. it's not a belt because it does it even with the belt off. I can recreate this problem every single time . even if I sit in park and idle it up 3000 RPm's it will go lean on bank 2 . If I run it Long enough and wide open it will bog down an the truck won't even move. I have to stop and let off the gas and let the trim come back to normal.. I get the screeching noise whether I'm in park neutral or driving I am absolutely stumped and can't figure out what it is . I've replaced the fuel pump module, and o2 sensors. Anyone got any ideas?
Perhaps the closed loop fault fuel system status on the freeze frame would offer a hint. Perhaps a blip where substituted values came into play and both banks suddenly wanted the exact same STFT in the absence of some other input data due to the fault. Some transition from closed to open loop perhaps where the O2 sensor data no longer applies and the PCM looked at TPS or something..
Hi Dan can you help me with a po139 code on my forester 2010 I keep throwing money on this problem with different mechanics I don’t know if you want to take on this job
Great point, it’s not the workshops fault the problem doesn’t occur., so absolutely should be charging diagnostic time, and being upfront with customers BEFORE starting the diagnostic process may be key. If a customer doesn’t agree then they can go somewhere else, at least you know before you have done the work. Would a lawyer charge for their research? Of course they would. I truly believe mechanics are too kind for their own good. They just want to look after their customers and feel bad charging when the problem isn’t fixed. Which is why I get pissed of when the media paints mechanics as rip offs. Probably only 0.05% are ripping people off. Most mechanics are eating costs that they shouldn’t! They are ripping themselves off.
100% accurate statements. I watch more work being given away while at the same time that same garage owner cannot afford to hire another tech nor pay the tech they have a better wage. All in the name of "taking care of the customer " smh
AWESOME THANKS FOR SHARING SD🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Totally agree with every word you said about charging for diagnostic time 💯%👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Special Thanks to cameraman Caleb👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Plz do some videos @ James Danner's shop it been a while since we saw him😍😍😍 Stay Blessed Danner Family🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
That "fuel rail pressure relative " you were discussing at the end is relative to manifold vacuum. I'm not sure how helpful that is to us, lol, i just want to know the fuel pressure 🤣
so if it were your truck and you had the time and money to try switching parts to see if it behaved better with changing the module or pump which would you, or what would you do next ? thanks
Essentially you can't fix a problem that CURRENTLY doesn't exist. Does customer want to loan you the car for a week/month to run errands in hopes of duplicating a previous but intermittent problem?
Paul, at the end of the video you emphasized what it did NOT need. You failed to mention what it DOES need......fuel, lol. Should have asked if when it died on the guy, did it run out of gas? 😂😂
I think it would be better for you to talk directly to the customer yourself in a case like this. That way you can ask specifics and have some give and take going with the customer that might expose info, which may not come up, when you are getting secondhand information. Or Pete doesn't want the customer to know he is farming out the problem to another technician? My opinion anyways and i know what some people say about that! LOL
When I was a full time tech in the field, I always wanted to talk with this customer! In this case, I knew exactly what I was looking to recreate so I didn't feel the need. Thanks! Great suggestion
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, these types of problems can be a real pain. What if you found out from the person though "it only happens after i've been driving for an hour" or whatever. I still think a direct conversation is best. I do understand that in most cases you are able to duplicate the problem.
I ran into an intermittent FRP sensor issue similar to this one in the past. IIRC the sensor shares the signal return wire with several other sensors, including the power steering pressure switch. The wires on that switch were exposed and touching each other due to chronic oil leaks and was screwing with the FRP voltage.
AMEN!!!!! You are right about diagnostic time, People would rather go to the parts store and let them scan the car and take their best guess,,, Gotta educate the customer and shop owners.
I looked this code up on my scantool which hasn't been updated but does have the frequent fix...states the EGR module was the most frequent fix... I don't know the source. Identifix? It is a Bosch tool. I wonder why EGR.
I have an 08 explorer 4.6 with p0171 & p0174. LTFT pretty much stays at +25 (usung blue driver.)I've changed everything 🙄. Even fuel pump control module. Fuel pressure stays pretty close to 40 psi.I just got a thinkdiag2 and it's showing me p1237ff. Every time i see someone with that code, it won't start. I drive this thing daily. Any idea ? maybe a ground short between module and pump?
When you key it on the pump runs at 100% for 2sec for the prime . I use to drive it for about 15 minutes to get the pump hot then scope to the prime and you could see the bad comm segments .
Paul you are a gift to the automotive repair industry. Some day when I own a shop it will be a requirement that every tech that works for me watches every video on your premium site. It literally took me from being a lube tech to being the best diagnostic tech at my work in 6 months. I work with guys that have been doing this 30 years that don’t know a fraction of the stuff I have learned from you in the last year.
Oh man, that is so awesome and humbling to hear. I look forward to that day Ryan! (When you own your own shop) and all of your techs are learning from me, and we get your name listed on my Shop Directory!
It is a gift to hear this type of feedback. Thank you so much!
Old dogs can learn new tricks but oftentimes they just lose the spark.
Scannerdanner another excellent informative video I was checking out one from 8 years ago you were diagnosing lean codes play Chevy Suburban that helps me with my Chevy Tahoe you're a wizard man and a genuinely fantastic dude keep sharing the knowledge and happy Easter to you and the family brother
Your rant is spot on not just for the automotive industry. The printing and graphics industry fails in similar ways. A shop (more likely the sales rep) will not want to charge a customer to fix there poorly created files even though the most experienced person spends hours of time using very expensive software and workstation to correct the errors. Shop management doesn't like to make waves and make a customer made with additional charges. This is false logic on their part as they may have very well losing money on the whole job. Many a business has gone bankrupt with plenty of customers.
Thanks Paul for your video.
Freeze frame date should always to be considered in the beginning of the diagnosis.
That makes a guide to follow.
God bless you and your family.
Freeze frame data is mostly useless in my experience, but to each his own
Double Dang!! Is this a new vid? Back at Pete’s, a SnapOn scanner, using an amp clamp and the scope. Paul at his best, ranting the way we love it. Caleb editing and adding the past cases. Cardboard?? Scanner Danner is back!!! Yaaaah!!!
If that were my personal truck, It would be getting a pump, driver module and relay. Last tow bill I had was $250. That pretty much covers parts cost for 1 tow.
If it's a customers car and you do that, what happens when that doesn't fix it? As long as that conversation is had with the customer, then you're good. The problem us, a lot of shops out there would do all of that, but they'll sell the job as "this IS your problem". Then when it doesn't fix it, the customer is pissed!
@@ScannerDanner Unfortunately for the customer, it's an intermittent problem. The truck is not reliable as it is and cannot be trusted. It will have to be completely broken, or caught when its intermittently broken to be a 99% repair fix.
For my personal truck, I am aware it will be a pretty good chance its fixed. That could be sold to a customer in a shop as well as the same.
The thing i really love about this Channel is that you take the time to reply to so many comments. There also seems to be many knowledgeable people in the comment section, who can be very helpful as well. My only complaint is with UA-cam. I had left a comment late last night and wondered if Paul had replied. At first i thought it had disappeared but found it way down in the comments and sure enough Paul had left a reply. Is that something on my end i don't have set up properly on YT that comments are all jumbled up with some comments that are relatively new appearing amongst comments that are days old? If anyone has an answer, it seems that i will have to go looking for this comment.
So there are a few things you can do on your end. One would be to make sure your settings are set for push notifications (I think it's called that), where you will get an email when someone comments back to you.
The second would be within the YT app itself. Or on a browser on a PC it's the same, you will see the comments have two options to sort them. One says Top comments and the other says Newest. Select newest and then you can scroll down and find your own comment easier.
The top comment thing is a YT thing and it's all based on their algorithms. How many likes your comment got will move it toward the top and also if you have a channel of your own with many followers, that bumps you up too. There is nothing us creators can do to change this.
Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner Thanks a lot, Paul. Unfortunately, I never seem to get many upvotes to any comment i make on any Channel. LOL At least the best guy on YT replies. How you find the time but i am positive the rest of your faithful followers appreciate it as much as i do.
On your talk about charging.. I say: You MUST charge them even if you don't find something.. The fix for that is to set those expectations up front. Really question them on how often it's acting up and if it only did it once--- then just cut them off right there and tell them to keep driving it until it gets worse. That's my only fix for intermittent issues--- you just have to turn them away until they are a persistent issue... OR you make sure that the customer knows that you may not find anything because it's not happening very often... Many customers will agree to that up front and tell you to look anyway; then when it comes time to bill-- they won't get any unwanted surprises.. You set that expectation and tried to turn them away first...... This is exactly what I do to my woman, my mother and my sister.. :) ... I don't charge them to work on it anyway.. but I still set that expectation and turn them away often.. Just keep driving it-- I'll fix it when it's actually broken. And typically-- the thing will finally break and then it's a quick easy fix and I never had to chase my tail on a rare intermittent fault.
so again: TLDR
Try to turn them away if their intermittent issue isn't happening often.. Then if they insist on you looking anyway; just let them know that it still costs, even if you can't find anything, because you can't recreate the fault. This way they know exactly what the agreement is. That is the answer for this situation
We will do the same! Good words, thank you!
I watched Paul since 2018, now I'm making living out of it, you are a God's sender.. Stay blessed man❤
That's awesome! Thank you
This scenario highlights a common issue in our industry. Customers often end up with hefty repair bills if mechanics only address the trouble code without thoroughly diagnosing the issue. Imagine how frustrating it would be for the customer to pay a significant amount, only to realize shortly afterward that the problem persists. Additionally, the unnecessary replacement of parts results in wastage as those perfectly good parts are discarded, contributing to landfill buildup.
Well good parts aren’t discarded. Techs don’t throw away parts that they replaced via parts cannon. You can’t clear the code and give it to the customer after replacing the part… it needs to have run a few trips or even a drive cycle and the code needs to clear itself. Clearing a code and returning vehicle to a customer without running a drive cycle is ridiculous. The customer ends up taking the vehicle after a repair drives it to their lake house and the check engine light comes back on . If the part you used is from Napa even if it’s a good diagnosis that parts gunna fail. Electrical components must come from the dealer . A shop that uses a Napa part that’s electrical is only taking your money. In my opinion… the suppliers that sell electrical related components to Napa don’t pay nearly a 1/10 of the money for R&D . Electrical 100% has to be replaced with OEM
i have seen on E450 this problem 2008 a couple time corosion of fuse contact giving low voltage fuse box in hood.thanks great video
sometime banging fuse box can duplicate the problem ,just put a voltmeter on the inertie switch and monitor the voltage will bagging
love the videos i always learn something even being a tech for 12yrs+
Thank you!
I have a 2006 4.6 and learned some stuff from this on what is normal and what to look for. My module is on the outside of the back seat in the trunk.
Thank you for the new video. On the flip side, you have to use your brain every day with diagnostic, unlike changing brakes, where it is optional))))
Most excellent title .
Thank you (in the thumbnail right?) I have @supermariodiagnostics to thank for that
And then you get a bad “new” map sensor and it has to be replaced again AND you still have the original problem
Love your videos i have learned so much from you I appreciate the amazing content.Just curious why don’t you drop it into a lower gear to do WOT testing? this allows you to do WOT Tests for longer while reducing your speed.
I only need the first gear pull as I have scan tools that allow me to pause and review data
I have an 06 w/4.2 and mine was/is the same. I replaced the FPM and a week later same thing also I saw that the 'fix' according to Ford is a stand off on the FPM is recommended. I then replaced the fuel filter same thing a week later. 😢
17:00 There should be a spacer between the FPDM and the frame. The aluminum touching the steel caused the aluminum to corrode away, so the replacement FPDMs should have come with studs to space the module away from the frame.
Even better throwing cr@p parts at it and introducing more problems than you started with 😂
😂 exactly!!
Noticed that the freeze frame data showed at 144 degrees on the coolant sensor. Maybe the problem will show up on a cold drive away load during warm up driving.
Wait!! You mean to tell me bringing in my scanner to the auto parts and using it as my parts list isn’t a good idea?? Lol
Lol
You can bet the doctor will be charging for that 2 hours regardless of any success or improvement.
Hi ScannerDanner! I had a Hyndai Getz 1.4 2008 with my car. Problem with the gas pump, I was driving to visit my daughter's family, the journey was 170 km long and the engine stopped suddenly, I checked the fuses, everything was fine, then I took a 20 min break and was able to drive the car again for 20 min. I drove it. for 5 hours, before major intersections I took a break beforehand so that the car would not stop at the intersection. When we arrived at the destination, we bought a new gasoline pump, I replaced it with a new one and the problem disappeared.Of course, you have a more complicated injection system that you diagnose, such systems are found on most injectors that inject directly into the cylinder, which also have a high-pressure gasoline pump.
I love your way of looking at engines!!
I think people don't mind paying for diagnostics from guys like you that actually do them.
Thank you!
Paul!
What about corroded wires?
That's probably where your intermittents are at!
100% a possibility
However, the amperage measurements at the pump module tell us this isn't a corroded wire issue.
@@ScannerDanner
Sorry Paul...the shadows in the vid on those two blower motor wires made them look damaged.
In my experience most shop owner's thing codes are a parts list and then blame the tech for misdiagnosing.
That is exactly right, I only wanted to do brakes and suspensions because my shop says "I can't charge my customer because you don't know what's wrong with it" This is before ever looking at a car. So screw it, take it somewhere else, no so-n-so, "parts cannon specialist", will fix it, and thousands dollars and days later and it's still broke...I don't miss it at all.
100% accurate description of what this field is full. Unfortunately
Bro perfect time. I have wrx 2017 Sam issue
But mine is direct Inject and turbo turbo
Thanks for sharing Paul and Caleb. Nice overview on how everything is tied together 👍
I did fix my 2010 Dodge Nitro that you helped me on... about the "APP2" data dropping out periodically.. and the limp mode issue.... I installed that new water pump and it has never had an issue since. Ivan at pine hollow.. and Eric O at south main auto both told me the same thing you did... that APP2 data drops out because it's a type of diagnostic test that the ECM sends out every second or so.......... Pretty weird: Because I talked to 2 different guys who rebuild ECM's for a living-- You just mail it in to them: and they didn't even know this, about APP2 dropout. They told me that it was unfixable and that I would have to just buy a new ECM. :) .. That shows how cutting edge youtuber diag's knowledge is.. and how reliable you guys are. bravo ... Saved me from buying a $600 ECM
That's pretty awesome right there! Thanks for sharing! Ivan and Eric are both super smart techs
Warranty companies will only pay for parts not diagnostic services. Guessing gets paid not knowledge.
Time to change that
Lean and Rich trim on a V engine with a MAF system means it's not breathing well on the negative bank, but we're only 2 minutes In so I'll wait and see. :)
Your rants are the best rants. All valid.
I’d imagine Caleb’s rants about your rants are the gold though.
❤️😂
I read this comment to my wife, she said she disagrees 😂
@@calebldannerso my rants are better thank yours then? 😂
@@ScannerDanner I don't think she likes either of us ranting 😂
Assume rant. no one could have said it better. unfortunately customers aren't watching these channels/videos only us techs.
Thank you sir
We're losing QUALIFIED mechanics in my area, like crazy. No money. "I don't want it 'diagnosed' I want it fixed". They DO NOT understand.
I didn’t know they had duty cycled controlled pumps in 06, I didn’t think those came in until early 2010s lol
They had them even earlier than that!
I'm glad you put this video, I just need a scanner to find my ford 2.3 speed density low power intermittent issues! Thank you Dan for this channel.
Love these vids. Paul, Ivan, Eric O, and Wes. been watching you all for years. And about diagnostic time, YES.. I would love to have a skilled diagnostician in my area. Unfortunately my cars have no issues to diagnose yet. It's both a blessing and a curse! Until something cool breaks, I guess I'll stick to brake services and Lube/Oil/Filters on my own cars.
These are my 4 go to guys too lol
Thank you Paul for the video! Even though you didn't get the result you were looking for, it's OK because it was still a great refresher for returnless fuel systems. Hey I had an interesting one today to share with you. I have a customer with a 2010 chevy tahoe police that was stuck lean and running poorly on bank 2 after it was put in the ditch. Ended up finding the wiring to the pre-cat o2 but it happened in such a way that it also fried the sensor as well. I came to find out the two damaged wires were for the 12 volt ignition and the other was the signal return to the pcm. Pretty fun one for me as I usually don't see many o2 sensor failures. I just got a call back from the customer a few minutes ago saying the truck is running better than it ever has since he has owned it so that was pretty cool.
I was thinking perhaps fuel quality or contamination. Here in Canada, we transition from winter to summer blend typically around april 1. I've seen my car fuel volatility behave weird around this time of the year and mess with evap properties (2015 chevy cruze for perspective). Anyways, I also watched a "watch JR go" video where a newish gm suv where the car would not start and a total fuel screw up happened and the engine would not start. The owner put a full tank of premium when it was really near zero fuel level. They substituted fuel with carb clearer and the engine was engaging.
100% I've seen winter/summer blend fuel issues cause all kinds of problems. In particular when we have very warm weather in March!
40:04 ya I’ve had very little luck getting any useful info from freeze frame data lol
Same and I rarely use it. A recent example. I have a B2S2 O2 stuck rich code on my truck. Freeze frame data shows thr other 3 O2 sensors, just not the B2S2 😂 useless!
I had an 06 f-150 that would have an extended crank when it was hot and eventually stopped starting at all when it was hot. Finally it Stalled out and came to me. Cold starts were never an issue, but when it was hot the fuel pump would not turn on. Checked the FPCM and had good outputs and power and ground at the pump was good, but found corrosion in the power wire about the same spot you had it. Replaced pump and module (customer said he knew they were a known problem and wanted it changed.) Upon further inspection of the pump connector, the power wire pin of the fuel pump actually had melted plastic all over the bottom of it. I was wondering if that melted plastic was a symptom of the corroded wire causing it to get hot as I’ve always been told a motor will pull pull amperage until the fuse blows or a wire burns up.
Yes sir, the melted plastic was from a poor connection. Resistance = heat!!
For all we know, your FRP could be going well above 75 psi when you are commanding the fuel pump duty cycle to 40% and above. Look at the FRP voltage when it hits 75 psi, it's at 5 volts, meaning the sensor is capped out.
Thanks!
Thank you! That wasn't necessary but I appreciate it
Well Paul, you need to change the aerial by the looks of it brother. Ha ha!
Inside jokes from the UK.
Disclaimer! For people that don't know about cars, when I find the problem, I like to say that you need to change the aerial or door handle to another fitter as a joke. You DO NOT change them.
My 5.4 285,000 miles still runs like a top no issues what so ever. but the dam frame tapped out. I can double fist the frame on both sides just past the front leaf perch
Fantastic!! Sometimes it just ain’t easy
Paul, I was wondering, could you give us a few examples as to how to charge for these types of problems? Would that be your regular hourly rate X the amount of hours spent?
Because I myself also struggle with something like this every once in a while.
And where is this feeling of guilt coming from? The garage I worked at didn't charge and I also have guilt trips charging for something that I "didn't fix" but that I was looking for.
It's ridiculous. Doctors? They do NOT care about these issues as you pay a hefty bill for just showing up to them. Wrong or not, you're billed the moment you go up to the reception. It's ridiculous.
But us? We are expected to either know everything and fix everything immediately or to work for free OR charge for the actual repair once we figure out what it was, forsaking the diagnostic time spent to find the issue.
I've worked at those shops who "can't charge for diag time". When I overheard the shop owner andmanager training the new SA say " sometimes what you charge and the hours don't match, always pay the tech" it was like music to my ears.
Hey SD, fuel pump driver module duty cycle signals are as follows:
20%=the FPDM us receiving an invalid duty cycle from the PCM
40%= the FPDM is receiving an invalid event notification signal from the RCM
60%= functioning normally
80%= the FPDM is detecting a concern with the secondary circuits(feedback signals)
Hope this helps
That would be the feedback signals you are referring to.
After watching your videos, and other studies I tried to diagnose fishbite misfire on 2002 lesabre I looked at vacuum leak ,secondary ignition (lean waveform), fuel pump waveform and other things. Turns out the fuel pump was consuming 2.5 less amps. (Using amp probe). New pump =secondary waveform looked right.
I really like the format of this video. Inserting the older clip for reference and wiring diagram pop outs are outstanding. Nice job Caleb! You’re ok too Paul. Lol
Glad you liked it! Caleb does an excellent job and I'm glad you noticed!
I fell asleep listening to the video and I woke up because I thought someone was tapping on my window to wake me up when I heard the tapping on the FICM. I worked hard, ate dinner and then out like a light. Not the video, I.e. It’s me, not you. :-)
😂😂 that's funny
Waiting for part 2 teacher!
Me too, currently trying to figure this driveability issues I have if I give the car some gas, never acted up with an acceleration issue
Freez frame showing 53% FT while at the same time showing 7.37g/s MAF at idle . I would expect around 5g/s for this engine , basically MAF is over-reading by around 50% .. common on Fords of this vintage and can be intermittent.. i would love to hear back from u man
I dont trust freeze frame data fully to be honest. We do not know that this was idle. It also showed 50% load I think?
Yaa around 20% , good point, there is a few confusing pids in the frame, like barometric pressure, which i believe should reset KOEOFF to what ever the MAP reading and u guys around sea level i believe it cannot go that low even on the worst days of the year. And other stuff
Is that a flex fuel truck? Was that module OEM?
Looks like drivability diagnosis has turned into an expensive hobby.
I have an Audi 2018 Q3. I went to Audi to get the oil changed. They are unable to open the hood. They have tried everything they think they know and suggest breaking the hood to open it. It does not make sense to me. The repairs will cost 1000's$$. What Tips can you offer? Or can you please make a video about it?
Kevin Markel was a trainer for snap on his advice was if your customer is not willing to pay for a minimum 2 hrs you should walk away his theory was they are not serious about maintaining their vehicle it takes time for diagnostic tests and that’s it charge for it !!!!!!!
What can we learn as technicians or learning technicians from Pauls video , its have a diagnostic process and stick to it and if you dont work for yourself make sure your employer is up to speed with this or you follow his or hers ,
This challenge with a lack of qualified technicians who are looking at continuily more sophisticated systems will only grow in the future.
I've been in that situation so many times. In the shop I do the hard stuff and the other techs flag more hours and end up being paid more with the gravy jobs.
I'm still here just soaking up your knowledge
Thank you!
I've just watched "The One Automotive Lab Scope Video You NEED to watch! (Mercedes Limp Mode) from Royalty Auto Service. The key takeaway was on how tight the voltage parameters especially on an APP sensor can be, and OEM data needed to fix the issue.
My questions are the following:
What I would like have seen in this case study is a visual inspection of the pins and connector at the recent replace FPM. Living in a dessert environment that rusty truck frame throws up all kind of alarm bells which may be not an issue to people who live in the rust belt. And the location of the module is not the most friendliest one for electronics.
Was the swapped part an OEM or aftermarket? Maybe the other part was good and the problem is elsewhere.
Could it be a software issue or a bad design?
Can you always trust one scanner manufacturer for solving every problem?
Has anybody checked for TSB's regarding the "fail often" FPM or these grouped codes?
But the most important question for a DIY and a potential PISSED OFF customer in an absolute worse case scenario, what do to when in a couple days my smog test is due and I get the "CHECK ENGINE" light come back on while driving to the smog place? So far, I've paid for 2 diags and a parts replacement and won't pass smog? In order to keep the truck on the road, I would have to pay for a failed smog test to keep my registration current, get a 30day (depending on the state) extension to have the truck fixed at a "certified smog repair facility"($$$$) if I can't fix it myself.
I sure like to find out what the fix was.
I will NEVER unplug a connector and inspect terminals when I'm trying to duplicate a fault. You can fix pin fitment issues and or component pin issues (internal) by doing that and then ruin your chance of duplicating the fault
@@ScannerDanner I would certainly agree with that while doing the diagnosis but when all else has failed it could be a last resort to just take a look and make sure. I never worked in the automotive field. I worked in the railroad industry (track maintenance equipment) repairing mostly Fairmont (Harsco) Tampers. BUT there were a lot of modules and ribbon cables involved, so sometimes you could run across something that had bent/damaged pins to the point you sometimes wondered "how did this ever work properly". Without someone understanding what the machine does (lifting and aligning track), you can't do a thorough test in a shop bay without putting the machine to work either.
Another nice video, thanks for taking the time to share the info.
On a side note completely off base Paul, it is nice to see the countryside you have where you live when on your road tests. Ivan @ PHAD has nice scenery too.
Where Ivan lives is amazingly beautiful. My younger brother went to Penn State and we use to be up there all the time! It is about 3 hours away from me to the east and is up in the Appalachian mountains.
Cool beans I was wondering why it took you to lay in the dirt poking at that module if you were going to call it.
it would be awesome if scannerdanner, eric the car guy, car wizard did a collab
Super Mario released a Y/T video with this same title 3 months ago!
I definitely got this phrase from him! Did not know he used it in a video title but he's definitely used it in his memes!
Don’t know if it’s been said but the EGR System Module is what houses the MAP/Baro sensor and it shares the same reference voltage with the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor as well as the power steering pressure sensor. Possibly an issue with that reference?
Exactly why we don't throw parts at the problem! Thanks
Heres how I would have diagnosed it. I would have cleared the codes and drove it again. That P0191 code is suspicious. I would check the wiring around the sensor and replace the pressure sensor since a range circuit code points to an electrical problem at the sensor.
Range performance is almost never a circuit problem. I believe it was a range performance code.
trouble codes are a part list, and good for business! jk jk Nice video!
Hello danner I have a problem with my 2010 Chevy cobalt with no crank no start and no communication with ecm can u please help me with this situation I watch your videos all the time about no crank no start
I would remove all connections and inspect and lubricate them
I think I would have tried using a heat gun on the fuel pump module .
Only going to get worse for auto repair industry, especially non dealer independents. Manufacturers losing money like an ugly gone fat callgirl, high loan interest, crazy pricing, no price control on foreign new build parts. Who brain us to believe Mexico and China build high quality new oem build parts
Manufacturers go even more stupid, demanding even cheaper supplied parts. Wait until wire insulation that lasts longer than 6 months is a high priced option
Who's willing to pay for a $100,000 pickup that has poor to non existent wire, connector, electrical system protection against chemically or ocean salted roads and the day after end of warranty, major corrosion failures. No competent techs left to repair
See lots of the newish dead dogs setting out behind dealer service shops waiting for the next parts thrower....month after month
Stelanntis is dead already, just waiting for Bankruptcy Court to save the banks on the original buyout
Great vid Paul. Techs of your caliber technical knowledge honesty good business sense will survive
Parts throwers will slide back down the food chain
😊
The parts houses kids with their code readers make a commission fortune off the weak of mind
Corporate Capitalism Baby😅
Pretty good description of this field. Thank you for your kinds words too
I have an 2006 5.4. .. That Idle's nice and smooth and fuel trims within range at idle. But . When I do a wide open throttle test , the engine climbs very lean +52 reading on bank 2 only, And I get a squealing noise. it's not a belt because it does it even with the belt off. I can recreate this problem every single time . even if I sit in park and idle it up 3000 RPm's it will go lean on bank 2 . If I run it Long enough and wide open it will bog down an the truck won't even move. I have to stop and let off the gas and let the trim come back to normal.. I get the screeching noise whether I'm in park neutral or driving I am absolutely stumped and can't figure out what it is . I've replaced the fuel pump module, and o2 sensors. Anyone got any ideas?
Sounds like a plugged cat on one side
I thought trouble codes meant you just throw parts at it!🤔
Paul "The Man" Danner🤜⚡️🤛
Perhaps the closed loop fault fuel system status on the freeze frame would offer a hint. Perhaps a blip where substituted values came into play and both banks suddenly wanted the exact same STFT in the absence of some other input data due to the fault. Some transition from closed to open loop perhaps where the O2 sensor data no longer applies and the PCM looked at TPS or something..
OBD2 data is not allowed to show substituted values, but I like the idea!
It's Paul Danner not Dan! ha ha. I made this mistake Paul when I first found your page.
You and thousands of others 😂
Hi Dan can you help me with a po139 code on my forester 2010 I keep throwing money on this problem with different mechanics I don’t know if you want to take on this job
Here is a list of shops using my training classes for their techs. Maybe you'll find one in your area
scannerdanner.com/find-sd-shops.html
Great point, it’s not the workshops fault the problem doesn’t occur., so absolutely should be charging diagnostic time, and being upfront with customers BEFORE starting the diagnostic process may be key. If a customer doesn’t agree then they can go somewhere else, at least you know before you have done the work. Would a lawyer charge for their research? Of course they would.
I truly believe mechanics are too kind for their own good. They just want to look after their customers and feel bad charging when the problem isn’t fixed. Which is why I get pissed of when the media paints mechanics as rip offs. Probably only 0.05% are ripping people off. Most mechanics are eating costs that they shouldn’t! They are ripping themselves off.
100% accurate statements. I watch more work being given away while at the same time that same garage owner cannot afford to hire another tech nor pay the tech they have a better wage. All in the name of "taking care of the customer " smh
AWESOME THANKS FOR SHARING SD🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Totally agree with every word you said about charging for diagnostic time 💯%👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Special Thanks to cameraman Caleb👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Plz do some videos @ James Danner's shop it been a while since we saw him😍😍😍
Stay Blessed Danner Family🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
That "fuel rail pressure relative " you were discussing at the end is relative to manifold vacuum. I'm not sure how helpful that is to us, lol, i just want to know the fuel pressure 🤣
Lol that's funny
so if it were your truck and you had the time and money to try switching parts to see if it behaved better with changing the module or pump which would you, or what would you do next ? thanks
Since the module was the fix for 5 months, I'd be putting another module in it, especially because it's under warranty still
Essentially you can't fix a problem that CURRENTLY doesn't exist. Does customer want to loan you the car for a week/month to run errands in hopes of duplicating a previous but intermittent problem?
Paul, at the end of the video you emphasized what it did NOT need.
You failed to mention what it DOES need......fuel, lol.
Should have asked if when it died on the guy, did it run out of gas? 😂😂
Someone should develop a data logger that could be installed on vehicles to allow customers to operate vehicle with a sporadic engine fault.
They're out there
👍if it works don't fix it 😅. Thanks for sharing
Could you use the rear 02 data on a vehicle with a/f monitors to accomplish the same wot test for a fuel delivery issue?
You can! You can also use the wideband upstream signal once you know how to interpret it (every car is different)
Hello i just wanted to know what would cause high fuel pressure in returnless fuel injection system?
Electronic returnless with no fuel psi regulator and a PWM pump (like this one), or a mechanical returnless with the regulator in the tank?
I think it would be better for you to talk directly to the customer yourself in a case like this. That way you can ask specifics and have some give and take going with the customer that might expose info, which may not come up, when you are getting secondhand information. Or Pete doesn't want the customer to know he is farming out the problem to another technician? My opinion anyways and i know what some people say about that! LOL
When I was a full time tech in the field, I always wanted to talk with this customer! In this case, I knew exactly what I was looking to recreate so I didn't feel the need. Thanks! Great suggestion
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, these types of problems can be a real pain. What if you found out from the person though "it only happens after i've been driving for an hour" or whatever. I still think a direct conversation is best. I do understand that in most cases you are able to duplicate the problem.
I ran into an intermittent FRP sensor issue similar to this one in the past. IIRC the sensor shares the signal return wire with several other sensors, including the power steering pressure switch. The wires on that switch were exposed and touching each other due to chronic oil leaks and was screwing with the FRP voltage.
Another great video. Thank you!
AMEN!!!!! You are right about diagnostic time, People would rather go to the parts store and let them scan the car and take their best guess,,, Gotta educate the customer and shop owners.
Nice to see such like these diagnostics. Can you tell me which diagnostic tool you’re using?
Snap-On Verus Edge I think on this one
I looked this code up on my scantool which hasn't been updated but does have the frequent fix...states the EGR module was the most frequent fix... I don't know the source. Identifix? It is a Bosch tool. I wonder why EGR.
Looked what code up? There were 5 of them
I have an 08 explorer 4.6 with p0171 & p0174. LTFT pretty much stays at +25 (usung blue driver.)I've changed everything 🙄. Even fuel pump control module. Fuel pressure stays pretty close to 40 psi.I just got a thinkdiag2 and it's showing me p1237ff. Every time i see someone with that code, it won't start. I drive this thing daily. Any idea ? maybe a ground short between module and pump?
Check it for an intake manifold gasket leak. Possible MAF contamination issue etc
Pump controll PWM to 100% and measure the current, armature diag easy
Watch the full video 🙂
When you key it on the pump runs at 100% for 2sec for the prime . I use to drive it for about 15 minutes to get the pump hot then scope to the prime and you could see the bad comm segments .