the sun is shining, the kids are nice to each other, my wife looks fantastic AND an SD video at Pete's!! This should be a beautiful day. Happy Sunday everyone!
Mr. Danner.... that happiness in your voice, when you find the cause of that trouble, shows that you enjoy and feels passion like the first time you were successful finding the solution to that class of problems. Thanks for that passion and keep doing that way!!!
slow down to go fast! a great thing. Eric O also touts that. Prepare a plan for what you want to check and think about what you're anticipating to see on the scope, scan tool etc. This is the fundamentals for any troubleshooting for any trade. When you master this, you can accomplish so much more on so many topics. Paul you always do a great job driving this method home for your audience and the results speak for themselves.
I still solder and heat shrink , been doing it for 30 plus years as a professional . Hasn't let me down yet and yes I work in the rust belt. You are a great teacher and have a great you tube channel.
Sunday morning , cold n wet here in NZ but coffee's hot and watching a SD video what better way to start the day. Thanks to you both for making this happen.
Indeed it's been a very very long time at Pete's, really nostalgic I remember all the great lectures you've produced from this place over the years, Simply AWESOME👍🏻 THANKS FOR SHARING SD😍 SPECIAL THANKS TO CAMERAMAN CALEB😎 STAY BLESSED GUY'S❤️
You're 100% right on the challenges rust belt techs see that other regions don't. I see stuff you, Eric O and others work on and the issues you face are dramatically different. I'm in CA and the moment I look underneath a car and see it's an east coast car my entire troubleshooting mindset changes. In other words, we're spoiled haha. Great lesson as always man!
Pete’s garage? A SnapOn scan tool? It’s gonna b a great Saturday. In one of your recent videos, I think u mentioned it’s hard to beat the SnapOn for its recording features and other good things about it. I have been using my old Verus a little more. I forgot to mention Caleb and his skill set!! Thank u both!!
Well Done, You guys are doing brilliant, and your son is perfect in editing the videos and highlighting key words and functions on your scanner footage, Once again Thank You So Much.
Each Day I watch your Videos I get more valuable experience in the Vehicle Diagnosis and I'm sure I will be professional Auto Technician. Thanks Danner ❤❤❤
Great video guys ! Good to see you back in the field doing Diagnostics..I truly believe it’s these type videos that put you where you are today …thanks Paul and Kaleb ..team effort that’s the best
Me too on this. I watched all of your older videos and learned so much. I am retired now and would really appreciate knowing more about the bidirectional capabilities of the Topdon scantool as that one is in my price range $1000 and perhaps compared it to the Launch tool. Again thanks for a great education in diagnostics.
I agree with you about starting either. It is so volatile that I've seen the hot wire on the MAF sensor ignite it and actually blow up the air cleaner housing. Way back I cranked over a car that was towed in and had so much either in it you could smell it across the parking lot. There was an explosion that blew the valve covers off of the engine.
My first move on those old Ford trucks was to slide under it and confirm that the FPM and wiring were corroded. They picked the worst possible place to mount a module with an aluminum housing. It helps to spray the module and connections with something to protect them from salt water and humidity.
Paul I got one for you, I changed the fuel pump on my 89 F150, I put everything back together truck would crank, but not start, I check for power and ground at the pump, the fuel pump would work if you took jumper wires and hooked it to a car battery, but wouldn't work if connected to the truck harness. Something told me to check the wires at the pump, the wires on the pump were crossed. I switched the wires truck started right up. Always do a visual inspection
When I do not have brush on electrical tape, I use RTV. I warm it to cure it more quickly. But it has to be the RTV that does not smell like vinegar (acetic acid) as this is corrosive. I use ultra grey as it is oxime based and non corrosive to metal.
Man I miss working in the shop. I don't miss an aching back and torn up hands every day, so I do it for fun now. There is something awesome about being in the shop with some great co-worker's, good tunes (heard the Journey playing), and the vehicle isn't fighting you.
I tested ground and power using the body ground on the door. So I mistakenly thought I had a good circuit. NOPE! Got the pump to run off a ground from the trailer electrical connector 😞
Paul, Before you begin think: If this is hard, I'm probably doing this wrong and if this is expensive, I'm probably doing this wrong. Most repairs are not that hard. Another great video. Keep up the good work.
I am all for the splice sleeves with the adhesive in them too. It's quick and easy. The key is, don't buy the cheapest ones you can find. I look at it this way, when I worked for GM, they used to supply those sleeves in connector repair kits for a reason. They work, when done correctly. It is also important to have a good set of crimpers. I bought a set online about 10 years ago that are identical to the ones GM supplied us with in our electrical tool kit. They work awesome, a perfect crimp every single time.
Oh Man, Altho we didn't get him on camera, it's Great to see another video from Pete's Garage. 😊 Got another viewers tip for ya...store that liquid tape upside down. That'll keep it from drying out as easily. I'm sure you've probably heard that one before. Lol Thanks for another great video bro. Cheers 😎👍
i've seen the green crusties wick up a foot and a half into a wire. its a pain but i cut and strip till i get clean copper no black or green. best thing i ever used was butyl tape. years ago it was available through euclid heavy duty. nasty sticky crap but it worked like nothing else
I've been searching for info on the reason for this type of system, I was working on a 2010 expedition and the pcm was not sending out a signal to the fuel pump control module. Turned out the circuit on the board of the pcm was burned. All i had to do was to clean then jump the burned part of the circuit. But I've always wondered why there was no fuel pressure sensor on the rail, how does the pcm know what command to tell the the fuel pump module. Now it makes sense. Thank you for sharing this paul!
That Tessa tape is worth every penny for wrapping harnesses. The fabric tape is also quite good if you need more flexibility, or your on the interior near chaff areas.
Always learning from you bro, thanks from SoCal! Love your teaching style, practical and real world stuff for us road techs. Been using those heatshrink crimp connectors for a few years and they’re great! But we don’t have rust…
Another simple repair. Almost as simple as those blown GM fuses! Sure glad I live south of the MD line! I and a lot of others drive GM trucks so I'll be sure to remember those.
As usual SD !!! Another great teaching !!! I have got to upgrade my scanner !!! I love the fact that it has everything at your disposal... Keep up the Videos and Training !!! Love you guys and God bless !!!
The information system I was using is not tied to the tool. It is called ShopKey Pro (Mitchell On-Demand) and it runs about $160 a month for the program. Not cheap. If you are a DIY guy and just need it for a few cars a month, you can purchase the info (same as I use) for individual cars for $20 for a months access and I believe you can print too? Pass that off to your customers eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Hi Paul and Caleb, I lived in Tucson Az. for a while and worked in this field ( auto mechanics) and the vehicles in the wrecking yards are in better shape than the vehicles on the road in Pa. But everything is fried!!
I know! I was in that area before and it was unbelievable the shape of some 40 year old cars. My power wagon body is from AZ! That's the entire reason I bought it! I can handle any mechanicals. Needed a solid body and frame as a foundation
Michigan(road salt during the winter)eats those modules up like candy. On those Ford trucks after i check for spark and fuel pressure like you did i usually make a bee line for the module (they split) since that issue is so common, as well as the wire corrosion issues.
Well Done, you guys are amazing and brilliant perfect fix , special thanks to cameraman caleb i just fall in love with his video how clear it's and very easy to understand
I'm old enough to remember working at Ford and having to go through those giant breakout boxes. They were better than poking holes in wires, even in Southern California - we did have that coastal strip that extended 10 miles inland. I've seen some sh*t. I also remember those rollover valves. Great in theory; in execution, not so much. A traffic or speed bump could set them off. I can't remember if that light duty black/gray wire was for radio interference, but I think it was. Maybe still is, although you'd like to think we're beyond that, these days. Remember when certain cars would get to intersections and die because of the communications equipment interference with the early PCMs? I only have vague recollections of that, since it was early enough in the production of whatever make/model of car it was, and it wasn't my make/model of car.
I'm with ya on the starting fluid issue. Except that I refuse to use it and you cannot find a can of it in my shop. It's way too easy to use my KV paddle to check for ignition (sometimes) LOL.
I use clear nail polish to brush over my probing holes that I pierce into wires when testing. I repair a fleet and never had one corrode later on, I'm the one that'd work on it if they did....
19:57 careful, you're gonna trigger the soldering purists! No crimping, we must solder so the joint will become brittle and break again in a few years.
Many times I find soldering old wire nearly impossible do to the surface corrosion of the copper. In the salt water marine environment we have better luck with the crimp connectors with heat shrink and hot glue. There are times we have to run new wire from one end to the other because the corrosion has traveled all of the way up and even turning the wire to copper dust. We also use a product to coat open connections, battery terminals, and metal parts called Linebacker from Zep. It is an anti corrosion spray that dries to what I think is some kind of wax. I also use it on and in connectors if I think they might be subject to salt water spray or bilge water. Good for battery connections also. I don't think any plug connection can be made mechanically salt proof. Just one grain of it will do a lot of damage on electrical systems.
Thank you for your wonderful videos.. I am still learning alot from you.. Cannot wiat for another video.. Thanks from Mexicali,Baja California Mexico.. I live about 15 minutes from the USA boarder which would be Calexico,California.. Thanks Again from Franco Perez. May God bless you and your fam.
The heat shrink crimp connectors are great except from where you crimp it causes a break in the heat shrink and corrosion sinks into those areas. If I have some of that liquid tape I put a little bit liquid tape on that as well and that would not have issues down the road.
Thanks Paul love your videos using my SD test light it helped me diagnose my bad AC compressor on my Honda . Connecting to the positive side of the battery I read ground on the positive side of the compressor connector . With the connection in , the condenser fuse continues to blow when I disconnect the compressor power feed the circuit stays energized and condenser fans runs normally . Your videos have helped me to save money for me and my family in these tough times . God bless you and your family
I solved a intermittent no start problem on a E350 2012 recently, it was the SRS Module under driver seat. The communication with the fuel pump went through the srs module and since the srs module was completely rusty, the signal could not pass.
With these early to mid 2000 trucks n vans if I see them at work one of the 1st things I do it look at the FP driver modules/wiring. Very common fault on these Gravy work up here in Canada
I noticed a blinking red light under the steering column. Even when the key was turned off, maybe we have an alarm system issue that was hooked up to the fuel pump?? This is only a thought at this point I have not seen you attack a fuel pump yet.
in this case that is correct but it is not to control fuel pressure as that is done by a mechanical fuel psi regulator in the tank. So it would seem this is simply to reduce fuel pump volume/current flow, which allows less of an alternator load. It is silly if you ask me, but I know of other manufactures that do this too. There is a variation to this same fuel system in that they don't use a fuel psi regulator, and there would be a rail psi sensor on that design, where they are controlling pump speed to control pressure. But that is not being done here. Not sure why all this would be done to save a few pennies on gas mileage from alternator loads
Hi Dan. So. I get all that. I'm really appreciating your work .👍🏻 l fallow circuits . Electronics hard wire .wireless. alarms so knowing that . Power supply is some what all ways an issue. Video signals are the same . Everything comes back to a central station . We can find voltage drop bad contacts . Bad components. We some times have to find control switches or other issues. So we can do & replace or repair every thing in front of situation. So why is finding or replacing /repairing so Dam difficult. Please lm just asking yeah lm good at what l do as you are 👍🏻
So you can actually see that it's shielded on the diagram: (11:23)... I believe that dotted circle around the FPRNT wire indicates that it is shielded; you can even see where it ties to that other ground wire: where it says NCA. I was wondering what they symbolism was (the dotted circle).. Now I just deduced that it must be a symbol for shielding- it makes perfect sense now. its so confusing when you see stuff like that and you don't know what it means. But I do now. :)
You said "it's interesting that it's often the power that corrodes, and not the ground" -- That's not always true-- and it depends on the type of metals that you're dealing with. It's known as "galvanic corrosion" and there is a range of "noble metals" that can react differently depending on how you arrange the different metals in a circuit. For example how they put a sacrificial anode on boats (usually zink I believe) to save it from corroding. Practical Engineering did a pretty good video explaining all this stuff, called: "These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust"
With copper wire on negative ground cars, it's always the 12v side that'a corroded. Real old cars were positive ground (I may be using the wrong terms here) but the block and frame would have been 12v or maybe 6v at the time. Anyway, I wonder if those corroded differently
@@ScannerDanner You should watch that video explaining nobel metals though. It's worth your time. called: These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust
With a fuel system, that would have to be GDI systems that may use that terminology as there is a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump. I don't know, I'm not sure I've heard that term applied to a fuel system. But the ignition system, the primary circuit is what creates the magnetic field to collapse around the secondary windings to make spark. Anything on the spark side is the secondary. It starts at the coil and includes plugs and wires. The primary would be the 12v side that is switched on and off by a module or ECM Also, you could call a relay as having a primary and secondary. Again terms not used, but technically it would be correct. The primary would be your low current side and the secondary would be the load carrying higher current side.
I see this all the time, from all over the world. Customer thinks they can handle it and change the pump after some Google searches for no fuel pressure
@@ScannerDanner I totally get that, not to to long ago I had a crank no start on fusion I believe it was. Customer had installed a new fuel pump and a bunch of other parts and couldn't get it to start. The thing was out of fuel, best part was the fuel light was on. Then about a month agoI had a crank no start on a Nissan. It again had several parts thrown at it, it had no fuel or spark. It was 4qts low on oil, added 4qts of oil and it fired right up. Can't get tunnel vision on one system,. Far to often I see guys chasing codes that were set due to a result and not the cause.
@@moneymikesupplymusic no problem. It all depends on what repair your doing. If it's an airbag, then absolutely you should have the battery disconnected. If it's a hybrid, then absolutely the high voltage system should be isolated. If it's a starter or alternator replacement, then absolutely you want the battery disconnected. Most other systems, it is absolutely not necessary and only creates problems!
@@ScannerDanner On my van, I am having the same problem. Checked the wires near the fuel pump driver module and they was good. It is a intermittent problem and I want to run a jumper wire from there to inside the van so I can monitor the battery voltage going to the module. What guage of wire do you recommend using?
@@moneymikesupplymusic if you are just tapping in for a voltage measurement, it doesn't matter what gauge wire you use as the current flow for the existing circuit won't be traveling through your jumper
Are you in PA ? If so would you be willing to look at my van im living in and help me figure out why its a weird sound when letting off the gas as im driving maybe make a video of it i wouldn't mind driving to you i stay around DC
Is that because of whatever reason ecu gives command to ignition and fuel pump to stop functioning? But if computer wants not running engine than it should disable injection pulse right? I'm confused...
It's a direction based test! If I also have no spark, there would be zero reason to crawl underneath this van to check pump powers and grounds, because it wouldn't be there! Make sense?
![No Start, No Crank - Suspected Bad ECM - [Auction Truck]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hhbmJprhino/mqdefault.jpg)
I am one of those southern boys, glad I don't wrench up north! 🤣😂🤣😂
Ya it will give u a whole new look at a Subaru especially when you have to replace rear cv shafts due to being seized in the bad wheel bearing.
@@claytoncoolidge992 I’ve gotten my hands on a few rust belt Subarus, down from the NC mountains. Not a fun time, but have gotten them done.
@@MrSubaru1387 ya u want some Michigan rust? 😂😂😂 can send it to you by the lbs
@@claytoncoolidge992 no thanks! 😂😂😂
the sun is shining, the kids are nice to each other, my wife looks fantastic AND an SD video at Pete's!! This should be a beautiful day. Happy Sunday everyone!
😊
Mr. Danner.... that happiness in your voice, when you find the cause of that trouble, shows that you enjoy and feels passion like the first time you were successful finding the solution to that class of problems. Thanks for that passion and keep doing that way!!!
slow down to go fast! a great thing. Eric O also touts that. Prepare a plan for what you want to check and think about what you're anticipating to see on the scope, scan tool etc. This is the fundamentals for any troubleshooting for any trade. When you master this, you can accomplish so much more on so many topics. Paul you always do a great job driving this method home for your audience and the results speak for themselves.
Thank you!
I like working on vehicles, but the problem solving stuff makes me love it, especially when I win.
I still solder and heat shrink , been doing it for 30 plus years as a professional . Hasn't let me down yet and yes I work in the rust belt. You are a great teacher and have a great you tube channel.
Sunday morning , cold n wet here in NZ but coffee's hot and watching a SD video what better way to start the day. Thanks to you both for making this happen.
awesome thank you!
Paul, I absolutely love watching and learning from your videos, please keep them coming 😊😊
Indeed it's been a very very long time at Pete's, really nostalgic I remember all the great lectures you've produced from this place over the years, Simply AWESOME👍🏻
THANKS FOR SHARING SD😍
SPECIAL THANKS TO CAMERAMAN CALEB😎
STAY BLESSED GUY'S❤️
Thank you my brother
You're 100% right on the challenges rust belt techs see that other regions don't. I see stuff you, Eric O and others work on and the issues you face are dramatically different. I'm in CA and the moment I look underneath a car and see it's an east coast car my entire troubleshooting mindset changes. In other words, we're spoiled haha. Great lesson as always man!
Teach how you teach brother, i love how you give the details on parameters!
Pete’s garage? A SnapOn scan tool? It’s gonna b a great Saturday. In one of your recent videos, I think u mentioned it’s hard to beat the SnapOn for its recording features and other good things about it. I have been using my old Verus a little more. I forgot to mention Caleb and his skill set!! Thank u both!!
It was great to be back!! Thanks Bill
Well Done, You guys are doing brilliant, and your son is perfect in editing the videos and highlighting key words and functions on your scanner footage, Once again Thank You So Much.
he will love this comment! as do I! I'm sending this to him. Thank you so much and I agree about his editing and work he does for me
Each Day I watch your Videos I get more valuable experience in the Vehicle Diagnosis and I'm sure I will be professional Auto Technician. Thanks Danner ❤❤❤
Keep it up! Looks like you've been watching a lot!
Great video guys ! Good to see you back in the field doing Diagnostics..I truly believe it’s these type videos that put you where you are today …thanks Paul and Kaleb ..team effort that’s the best
Me too on this. I watched all of your older videos and learned so much. I am retired now and would really appreciate knowing more about the bidirectional capabilities of the Topdon scantool as that one is in my price range $1000 and perhaps compared it to the Launch tool. Again thanks for a great education in diagnostics.
I'm still in the field at my brothers shop too and he always gives me all the hard ones lol
I enjoy seeing someone with a very similar intensity too properly diag,and repair,,You're awesome Paul
@21:25. Thank you, Whoever it was!!
Up here in Quebec, The ultimate rust belt i deal with those types of fault everyday! visual inspection as you teach!!!
I agree with you about starting either. It is so volatile that I've seen the hot wire on the MAF sensor ignite it and actually blow up the air cleaner housing. Way back I cranked over a car that was towed in and had so much either in it you could smell it across the parking lot. There was an explosion that blew the valve covers off of the engine.
The socket mini roll tabe idea was South Main Auto's Eric O. idea, at least that's where I saw it first. Nice of you using it.
So Eric taught you guys and one of you guys taught me 🙂
@@ScannerDanner that doesn't mean you aren't the master 😉
My first move on those old Ford trucks was to slide under it and confirm that the FPM and wiring were corroded. They picked the worst possible place to mount a module with an aluminum housing. It helps to spray the module and connections with something to protect them from salt water and humidity.
I love the salt belt. Green wires and job security!
Paul I got one for you, I changed the fuel pump on my 89
F150, I put everything back together truck would crank, but not start, I check for power and ground at the pump, the fuel pump would work if you took jumper wires and hooked it to a car battery, but wouldn't work if connected to the truck harness. Something told me to check the wires at the pump, the wires on the pump were crossed. I switched the wires truck started right up. Always do a visual inspection
When I do not have brush on electrical tape, I use RTV. I warm it to cure it more quickly. But it has to be the RTV that does not smell like vinegar (acetic acid) as this is corrosive. I use ultra grey as it is oxime based and non corrosive to metal.
Man I miss working in the shop. I don't miss an aching back and torn up hands every day, so I do it for fun now. There is something awesome about being in the shop with some great co-worker's, good tunes (heard the Journey playing), and the vehicle isn't fighting you.
thanks for this video. I think you have been doing a great job on not only the repairs, but the teaching you do to help others on the repairs...
It's funny I just rewatched the video where you bought those Snappy crimpers, great fix and diag
Tape on the socket , great tip.
Bad ground strap on the passenger side underside. Im calling it before I watch the video. Lol
lol same here
I just had that happen to me, the weave ground strap rotted away on a 2011.
Don’t break those fuel line locking clips. Impossible to find new, or the fuel lines are practically extinct
@@BigJohnnyo80 I literally see 2-3 a week for the ground strap. We have a fleet of them vans.
I tested ground and power using the body ground on the door. So I mistakenly thought I had a good circuit. NOPE! Got the pump to run off a ground from the trailer electrical connector 😞
Paul, Before you begin think:
If this is hard, I'm probably doing this wrong and
if this is expensive, I'm probably doing this wrong.
Most repairs are not that hard.
Another great video. Keep up the good work.
I am all for the splice sleeves with the adhesive in them too. It's quick and easy. The key is, don't buy the cheapest ones you can find. I look at it this way, when I worked for GM, they used to supply those sleeves in connector repair kits for a reason. They work, when done correctly. It is also important to have a good set of crimpers. I bought a set online about 10 years ago that are identical to the ones GM supplied us with in our electrical tool kit. They work awesome, a perfect crimp every single time.
Good seen you and your son working together, keep yo the good work
You are The Man, 🎉🎉🎉 dealing with same issues now, Thank you so much sir!
Oh Man, Altho we didn't get him on camera, it's Great to see another video from Pete's Garage. 😊
Got another viewers tip for ya...store that liquid tape upside down. That'll keep it from drying out as easily. I'm sure you've probably heard that one before. Lol
Thanks for another great video bro. Cheers 😎👍
Scanner danner has taught me a bunch...
i've seen the green crusties wick up a foot and a half into a wire. its a pain but i cut and strip till i get clean copper no black or green. best thing i ever used was butyl tape. years ago it was available through euclid heavy duty. nasty sticky crap but it worked like nothing else
Awesome. Thanks for sharing Paul. Cheers.
Great video and info thank you Paul Danner.
I've been searching for info on the reason for this type of system, I was working on a 2010 expedition and the pcm was not sending out a signal to the fuel pump control module. Turned out the circuit on the board of the pcm was burned. All i had to do was to clean then jump the burned part of the circuit. But I've always wondered why there was no fuel pressure sensor on the rail, how does the pcm know what command to tell the the fuel pump module. Now it makes sense. Thank you for sharing this paul!
That Tessa tape is worth every penny for wrapping harnesses. The fabric tape is also quite good if you need more flexibility, or your on the interior near chaff areas.
Always learning from you bro, thanks from SoCal! Love your teaching style, practical and real world stuff for us road techs. Been using those heatshrink crimp connectors for a few years and they’re great! But we don’t have rust…
Awesome! Thank you!
Very interesting diag. Thanks for this video.(danke paul & sohn)👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.
Another simple repair. Almost as simple as those blown GM fuses! Sure glad I live south of the MD line! I and a lot of others drive GM trucks so I'll be sure to remember those.
As usual SD !!! Another great teaching !!! I have got to upgrade my scanner !!! I love the fact that it has everything at your disposal... Keep up the Videos and Training !!! Love you guys and God bless !!!
The information system I was using is not tied to the tool. It is called ShopKey Pro (Mitchell On-Demand) and it runs about $160 a month for the program. Not cheap. If you are a DIY guy and just need it for a few cars a month, you can purchase the info (same as I use) for individual cars for $20 for a months access and I believe you can print too? Pass that off to your customers
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Thank for that info ! I used all data when in the business...Glad you clarified that...
Caleb/Paul,
Great video, diag, and repair - thank you!
Paul (in MA)
Hi Paul and Caleb, I lived in Tucson Az. for a while and worked in this field ( auto mechanics) and the vehicles in the wrecking yards are in better shape than the vehicles on the road in Pa. But everything is fried!!
I know! I was in that area before and it was unbelievable the shape of some 40 year old cars. My power wagon body is from AZ! That's the entire reason I bought it! I can handle any mechanicals. Needed a solid body and frame as a foundation
Excellent diagnosis and trouble shooting.
I love fixing things brought in on a hook or from another shop with $6 in consumables, makes up for the really tough ones
Nice repair, I sometimes walk right past the obvious visual inspection, bad habits die hard. Poking wires who doesn't do that.
Michigan(road salt during the winter)eats those modules up like candy. On those Ford trucks after i check for spark and fuel pressure like you did i usually make a bee line for the module (they split) since that issue is so common, as well as the wire corrosion issues.
Well Done, you guys are amazing and brilliant perfect fix , special thanks to cameraman caleb i just fall in love with his video how clear it's and very easy to understand
Thanks so much!
Good job and nice wiring. You could be an electrician.
another learnning experience Danner,,,
Awesome job
I'm old enough to remember working at Ford and having to go through those giant breakout boxes. They were better than poking holes in wires, even in Southern California - we did have that coastal strip that extended 10 miles inland. I've seen some sh*t.
I also remember those rollover valves. Great in theory; in execution, not so much. A traffic or speed bump could set them off.
I can't remember if that light duty black/gray wire was for radio interference, but I think it was. Maybe still is, although you'd like to think we're beyond that, these days.
Remember when certain cars would get to intersections and die because of the communications equipment interference with the early PCMs? I only have vague recollections of that, since it was early enough in the production of whatever make/model of car it was, and it wasn't my make/model of car.
those breakout boxes sucked :-) Step 1 of a flow chart "install BOB" lol I didn't even know who BOB was back then in the aftermarket 😉😂
Thank you, Mr. Danner.
I'm with ya on the starting fluid issue. Except that I refuse to use it and you cannot find a can of it in my shop. It's way too easy to use my KV paddle to check for ignition (sometimes) LOL.
I watch this video from Iraq
Thanks for u
Dan ... Thanks a lot bro..Caleb also.
Paul Danner :-) and you're welcome
I use clear nail polish to brush over my probing holes that I pierce into wires when testing. I repair a fleet and never had one corrode later on, I'm the one that'd work on it if they did....
I've heard other guys using that too. Off camera I was asking Pete if he had any lol. Thanks!
19:57 careful, you're gonna trigger the soldering purists! No crimping, we must solder so the joint will become brittle and break again in a few years.
Thank you 👍
Many times I find soldering old wire nearly impossible do to the surface corrosion of the copper. In the salt water marine environment we have better luck with the crimp connectors with heat shrink and hot glue. There are times we have to run new wire from one end to the other because the corrosion has traveled all of the way up and even turning the wire to copper dust. We also use a product to coat open connections, battery terminals, and metal parts called Linebacker from Zep. It is an anti corrosion spray that dries to what I think is some kind of wax. I also use it on and in connectors if I think they might be subject to salt water spray or bilge water. Good for battery connections also. I don't think any plug connection can be made mechanically salt proof. Just one grain of it will do a lot of damage on electrical systems.
Thank you for your wonderful videos.. I am still learning alot from you.. Cannot wiat for another video.. Thanks from Mexicali,Baja California Mexico.. I live about 15 minutes from the USA boarder which would be Calexico,California.. Thanks Again from Franco Perez. May God bless you and your fam.
buy his book money well spent compralo
thank you Juan!
thank you!
SD the GOAT
Love your videos dude especially on old Fords
Frame 13:37 👍👊
That’s how I found your channel many years ago while you were using shop air to diagnose an ac system at Pete’s. 😂😂
Luckily i own a 98 ford E250 with the 4.2 v6 4r70w alot easier to work on and replaced fp 2 years ago still going strong too
Gracias amigo
The heat shrink crimp connectors are great except from where you crimp it causes a break in the heat shrink and corrosion sinks into those areas. If I have some of that liquid tape I put a little bit liquid tape on that as well and that would not have issues down the road.
The ones I use have an adhesive that will fill any splits in the outer shell from crimping
Thanks Paul love your videos using my SD test light it helped me diagnose my bad AC compressor on my Honda . Connecting to the positive side of the battery I read ground on the positive side of the compressor connector . With the connection in , the condenser fuse continues to blow when I disconnect the compressor power feed the circuit stays energized and condenser fans runs normally . Your videos have helped me to save money for me and my family in these tough times . God bless you and your family
Thank you! God bless you too my friend
👍 another fine video!
I solved a intermittent no start problem on a E350 2012 recently, it was the SRS Module under driver seat.
The communication with the fuel pump went through the srs module and since the srs module was completely rusty, the signal could not pass.
Nice job
great video team Danner, thanks
With these early to mid 2000 trucks n vans if I see them at work one of the 1st things I do it look at the FP driver modules/wiring.
Very common fault on these
Gravy work up here in Canada
The most basic things make or break a job by hrs. I always carry a fresh battery to fit vehicle if dealing with electrical
Great video, love when you work at Pete's! Does the light you are using belong to Pete? I only remember seeing it in his videos. Thanks for sharing!
No, that was my backup light, my other one finally died.
Hello Paul.Awesome content as always.Thanx bro!
Great stuff as always Paul!
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO
I noticed a blinking red light under the steering column. Even when the key was turned off, maybe we have an alarm system issue that was hooked up to the fuel pump?? This is only a thought at this point I have not seen you attack a fuel pump yet.
never even noticed that
AWESOME OUTSTANDING JOB THANKS
How ironic just last week had to diagnose no fuel and had a bad driver module was in a 2014 F250.
I believe the two speed pump function allows the pump to run at low speed under low engine loads and high speed under high engine loads.
in this case that is correct but it is not to control fuel pressure as that is done by a mechanical fuel psi regulator in the tank. So it would seem this is simply to reduce fuel pump volume/current flow, which allows less of an alternator load. It is silly if you ask me, but I know of other manufactures that do this too. There is a variation to this same fuel system in that they don't use a fuel psi regulator, and there would be a rail psi sensor on that design, where they are controlling pump speed to control pressure. But that is not being done here. Not sure why all this would be done to save a few pennies on gas mileage from alternator loads
Thank you❤
Shout out from the rust belt. - WI edition. We’d be like automotive gods anywhere else.
Hi Dan. So. I get all that. I'm really appreciating your work .👍🏻 l fallow circuits . Electronics hard wire .wireless. alarms so knowing that . Power supply is some what all ways an issue. Video signals are the same . Everything comes back to a central station . We can find voltage drop bad contacts . Bad components. We some times have to find control switches or other issues. So we can do & replace or repair every thing in front of situation. So why is finding or replacing /repairing so Dam difficult. Please lm just asking yeah lm good at what l do as you are 👍🏻
So you can actually see that it's shielded on the diagram: (11:23)... I believe that dotted circle around the FPRNT wire indicates that it is shielded; you can even see where it ties to that other ground wire: where it says NCA. I was wondering what they symbolism was (the dotted circle).. Now I just deduced that it must be a symbol for shielding- it makes perfect sense now. its so confusing when you see stuff like that and you don't know what it means. But I do now. :)
Nice! Oh and NCA = no color available lol
You said "it's interesting that it's often the power that corrodes, and not the ground" -- That's not always true-- and it depends on the type of metals that you're dealing with. It's known as "galvanic corrosion" and there is a range of "noble metals" that can react differently depending on how you arrange the different metals in a circuit. For example how they put a sacrificial anode on boats (usually zink I believe) to save it from corroding. Practical Engineering did a pretty good video explaining all this stuff, called: "These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust"
With copper wire on negative ground cars, it's always the 12v side that'a corroded.
Real old cars were positive ground (I may be using the wrong terms here) but the block and frame would have been 12v or maybe 6v at the time. Anyway, I wonder if those corroded differently
@@ScannerDanner You should watch that video explaining nobel metals though. It's worth your time. called: These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust
I bypassed by inertia switch with a 10 amp mini ATC fuse
What's the primary circuit Vs secondary, I've seen it on fuel system and ignition system as well 🤔
any direction to a video I should watch 🙏
With a fuel system, that would have to be GDI systems that may use that terminology as there is a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump. I don't know, I'm not sure I've heard that term applied to a fuel system. But the ignition system, the primary circuit is what creates the magnetic field to collapse around the secondary windings to make spark. Anything on the spark side is the secondary. It starts at the coil and includes plugs and wires. The primary would be the 12v side that is switched on and off by a module or ECM
Also, you could call a relay as having a primary and secondary. Again terms not used, but technically it would be correct. The primary would be your low current side and the secondary would be the load carrying higher current side.
Great video
They put a fuel pump in, but didn't verify power or ground to the pump?
Yeah, that's rough 😅
I see this all the time, from all over the world. Customer thinks they can handle it and change the pump after some Google searches for no fuel pressure
@@ScannerDanner I totally get that, not to to long ago I had a crank no start on fusion I believe it was. Customer had installed a new fuel pump and a bunch of other parts and couldn't get it to start. The thing was out of fuel, best part was the fuel light was on.
Then about a month agoI had a crank no start on a Nissan. It again had several parts thrown at it, it had no fuel or spark. It was 4qts low on oil, added 4qts of oil and it fired right up.
Can't get tunnel vision on one system,. Far to often I see guys chasing codes that were set due to a result and not the cause.
One thing I never see you do before messing with wires, do you think you should disconnect the battery first?
No, on a 12v system almost never! Why? Because loaded circuit voltage drop testing is what needs to be done.
@@ScannerDanner Well I was talking about not doing testing, when doing repairs. Sorry for the misleading question.
@@moneymikesupplymusic no problem. It all depends on what repair your doing. If it's an airbag, then absolutely you should have the battery disconnected. If it's a hybrid, then absolutely the high voltage system should be isolated. If it's a starter or alternator replacement, then absolutely you want the battery disconnected. Most other systems, it is absolutely not necessary and only creates problems!
@@ScannerDanner On my van, I am having the same problem. Checked the wires near the fuel pump driver module and they was good. It is a intermittent problem and I want to run a jumper wire from there to inside the van so I can monitor the battery voltage going to the module. What guage of wire do you recommend using?
@@moneymikesupplymusic if you are just tapping in for a voltage measurement, it doesn't matter what gauge wire you use as the current flow for the existing circuit won't be traveling through your jumper
Eric O. uses the same tape process.
You know, one of you guys told me to do that with a socket and you all brought that over to me from Eric maybe 🙂? It's genius
Are you in PA ? If so would you be willing to look at my van im living in and help me figure out why its a weird sound when letting off the gas as im driving maybe make a video of it i wouldn't mind driving to you i stay around DC
Why we checked ignition when there's no pressure. Nothing like I'm teaching you something, just want to know why we do that.
Is that because of whatever reason ecu gives command to ignition and fuel pump to stop functioning? But if computer wants not running engine than it should disable injection pulse right? I'm confused...
It's a direction based test! If I also have no spark, there would be zero reason to crawl underneath this van to check pump powers and grounds, because it wouldn't be there!
Make sense?
Oh yea.. right, thanks for answering
Check for corrosion behind drivers fuse holder panel. Often the problem.
LOVE my Tessa tape. Much better and actually easier to use!
You ever use nail polish to seal the wires after you poke them?
Yes!
Check the fuse , 😊
😂😂 great comment! And you know why? It shows me you've been watching. Thank you so much