200 AMP SERVICE UPGRADE | Atlantic Highlands, NJ. Part III
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- Опубліковано 7 січ 2023
- In this video you’ll see a Square D Homeline 200 amp main breaker 40/ 80 panel be installed complete with circuit breakers and whole house surge protection. You’ll see how the meter wiring is accomplished and finally how to reconnect to the utility power company service drop. This is part III of a 3-part series on upgrading an electrical service from 100 amps to 200 amps.
Classic Electric, LLC | Point Pleasant, New Jersey
License & Business # 16557
(732)-770-1437
WANT TO SEE MORE? 200 AMP Service Upgrade WATCH HERE: • How To Upgrade an Elec...
We are a certified Generac standby generator installer. Generac Dealer # 1019500
Classic Electric uses mostly Milwaukee cordless tools and Klein hand tools.
Camera: Go Pro 10
Editing software: Apple iMovie
Animation software: Apple Keynote
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Ron Pecina Jr. is a licensed electrician in the state of New Jersey.
This allows him to apply for electrical permits, work with live conductors,
remove meters, and disconnect service from the utility company.
Electrical Wiring is NOT a hobby. Call a licensed electrician. - Навчання та стиль
Excellent work! So professional... Your 200A upgrade videos are just awesome and interesting. Keep it up!
Thank you very much!
Yes, we are required to use conduit for a service riser here in Oregon. You are lucky Ron, your way is less time consuming. Great video, Thanks, Russ-Electrician from Oregon.
It's different all over the country as it should be. What I'll never understand is states like California and Arizona where the service panel is outdoors and ganged-up with the meter. Now if a breaker trips you have ti go outside to reset the breaker. That never made any sense to me.
@@electricalron yeah also in Colorado, house panels are outside in the cold. Here in Minnesota service riser has to be in conduit. If your conduit goes through the roof, the conduit has to be imc, can’t run pvc.
amazing work!! well done!
You do great work very neat in your work & clean up
Well done Mr. Ron! Appreciate share - All Pro!
Section 230.85 requires an emergency disconnect to be installed for all new electrical services as well as when an electrical service is modified or upgraded.
Service masts used for the support of service-drop or overhead service conductors shall be installed in accordance with 230.28(A) and (B). The service mast shall be of adequate strength or be supported by braces or guy wires to withstand safely the strain imposed by the service-drop or overhead service conductors.
250.24(A)(1) Connect the grounding electrode conductor at any reachable place from the load end of the overhead or underground service conductors, service drop, or service lateral to the terminal or bus-at the service disconnecting means-to which the grounded conductor is connected.
Think I should go back and add the disconnect even if I’ve already gotten the final approval?
Nice job!!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great job Ronnie the Rapper! You make me so proud❤
Great job.
Love these videos...so educational for me. Thank you.
Glad you like them!
Fantastic video! Thanks taking the time to show the process. Have a great 2023!
Thanks, you too!
Superior attitude, superior work. 👍
Thank you!
You're a true professional. I've learned a lot from watching you and I appreciate it. 🤙👍👊
Very clean, pro job. Quality workmanship start to finish.
Thanks 👍
I purchased a piece of property that has 442 aluminum sticking out of the ground two black one white. I bought 442 aluminum that's two black and one stripe and I have to go through and connect to the meter out by the road and to the 200-amp Box + 2 RV boxes and I realized after not messing with this stuff for over 23 years and I'm just an individual on top of it you really have to think of what's going on because I have to connect and heat shrink to the existing wires sticking out of the ground and run 40 feet to the Box you guys definitely have your work cut out for you working on this stuff.
Nice job.... I like the tip about turning away when flipping on the Main Breake.
Glad it was helpful!
Sweet!!!!
Sweet job, and completely by yourself 👍👍. That’s a very long day! Excellent video and description of the work.
Thank you, Chuck!
I started using ratcheting cutters and that klein *big cable* stripper myself recently. They cost a pretty penny but both are life savers.
If the tools saves time in labor it’s worth it!
Hi Ron, I'm a one-man electrical contractor, myself. I noticed in another vid where you're on top of the roof, you have kind of this nice 2" thick rubber tape for going over your butt splices on the drip loops. Between that and the 4-pronged Klein large wire stripper, I've been picking up little tips like those, and I appreciate ya, man. Little stuff like that which a hardened 1000 yard stare master electrician can still learn from another pro... just always looking to ease the burden a little more all the time, ya know? All the best, brother.
Hi Tim, we can all learn from each other. It’s about pulling each other up the ladder, not kicking the ladder out from one another. I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
@Electrician Ron hi, I like your style. Mike Holt says anti oxidant is unnecessary.
Your work looks good! We do the exact same process here in St. Louis Missouri.
However our utility company here requires the meter base with a lever bypass.
I run my own company here and operate the same way you do.
Good looking work!
Thanks for the info! Each utility company is a little different.
I found your channel about a month ago and enjoy your service upgrade videos. I admire your work and would not hesitate to hire you for any electrical work. I am an electrical engineer by trade and worked in the power field almost 40 years. I have a couple of comments. I think you could use a lot less Penetrox on the service connections. I think a bead applied with the bottle nozzle and spread with a small brush would do the job. Burndy says "apply liberally" so I guess that is subject to your own judgement. I know too much is better than too little.
The other comment concerns arc flash hazard. I was involved in an arc flash incident on a 480 volt motor control center years ago before we took arc flash seriously. I was extremely lucky not to lose my vision. We had defeated the door interlock on a starter for a 200 HP motor to check something. The MCC decided to fault on its own just as I had turned my head away to stand up. I still suffered second degree burns on the side of my face and welders flash burn on my eyes. In your work I would wear a face shield, leather gloves and long sleeves when unplugging and plugging the meter in and operating the main breaker. Actually pulling and plugging in the meter is probably the most dangerous task you do since you are making or breaking the circuit with something not designed to do that and the meter condition is unknown to you. The main breaker is brand new and should be in very good condition.
NFPA 70E, Standard for Electrical Safety in the Workplace has a very good guide on arc flash hazard and work practices. It would be worth getting if you do not already have it. Where I worked we adopted NFPA 70E after suffering a number of arc flash incidents. Some involved third degree burns and permanent injury.
Как приятно посмотреть квалифицированную и качественную работу, а также на мастера, выполняющего её (работу) со знанием и уважением 👍😉😎.
Спасибо.
Thank you!
How about a safety glasses or even a shield when you plug in that meter
Wonderful work, sir. I appreciate learning more about your trade through your videos. I’m curious if you’ve ever had to upgrade service for tankless electric water heaters.
Fortunately, most of New Jersey has natural gas access.
Quack quack says the duck seal
Cleanup is easy to do when you are your own boss. When your working for someone else, sometimes the boss wants you out of there and on to a different job and they don't want to pay for you to stay late. Or you get called to do a service call somewhere else. It is much different when you are working for someone else. Also, I would be required to have the panel all labeled properly before leaving. No comebacks. I always hated doing service changes by myself. Here in Oregon your always running conduit, drilling holes in roofs, installing roof jacks and guy wires kits. It was always a very long day by myself. Thanks, Russ-Electrician from Oregon.
Cleaning up and using drop clothes makes a big difference in getting repeat business and referrals. People expect you to do GREAT electrical work but leaving a mess behind is all they'll remember even if you did a good electrical job.
Nice work as always Ron! Love the new Square D panels! Finally someone using their noggins! Have you seen the new Leviton panels at Home Depot?
Not yet! I've seen them before at a Levition presentation some time back at an IEC presentation.
Always install the surge breaker at the top of the electric panel
I bet you do get a lot of comments about the service drop not being in a conduit .I like Square D panel looks clean !
If they’re familiar with NEC article 230 they’d see SE Cable listed as an approved wiring method.
I like to fill the weatherhead with duct seal to help prevent water running inside the cable
I do that sometimes too.
Ron great video!! is it smart( suggested) that I turn off all breakers before turning of the 'Main' or is it ok just to turn off the main and not kill each breaker first? Thx!
Obviously you have a lot of experience as you make it look so easy. Nice R&R of the panel and all the necessary hardware. I wish you worked out in Southern California. I'm looking at doing something similar but to include a critical load panel for a battery backup system. Any electrical company recommendations for the High Desert (Victorville) area?
@@l.rod2827 Sorry, not in California.
Some localities around me still allow for riser without conduit but I myself have never done it that way . I always put my service cables in conduit for the main reason I've seen too many risers and entrance cables that weren't in conduit the outer sheathing would Crack open and allow water in and once water gets in the cable it corroded the aluminum neutral wire and causes you to loose the neutral. I've had to replace several service cables for this reason . If the cables don't receive a lot of direct sun it's not as bad but I still won't install without conduit even if allowed. Also here if changing out complete service or upgrading service if the breaker panel is not directly behind the meter base so that a short nipple can be installed between themthenwe have to install an outdoor disconnect
The old SEU had issues but todays SEU cable is much improved.
Thanks for the great videos Ron! On the Meter sockets! I got a little confused with Horn bypass and the lever bypass! Any info if you don't mind sharing would be great! I know in our area the power company requires a 200 amp meter socket to have a lever bypass! I got curious what the 2 bypasses do! Thanks again for the great videos!
I'm sorry I cant help you. I dont even know the difference between the two either! Around here we use ringless with PSEG and JCPL.
SPD in the box? So Jersey moved up to 2020? Hope this is not late, Happy New Year Ron. Looking classy job well done. 👍.
I included the SPD with this job but were still not 100% on the 2020 NEC yet.
@@electricalron Gotcha. Here in AZ it's to local interpretation. State wide it's the wild west. Thanks for getting back. 🙂
Hey Ron. Are you not a allowed to crimp your service back in, in NJ? Also have you ever used the plastic tap connector covers for your lugs?
How do you secure the bottom meter socket with screws
With all the services you do, you should invest in a cordless Milwaukee H-crimper. It can cover all ranges of wire sizes for the run and tap connections on services. A lot faster and easier than the mechanical crimps when doing services. Just a suggestion.
I was looking at that last night. Only $2700 at Acme Tools. I would be helpful as it not only crimps but also has dyes available to cut large conductors.
@@electricalron seriously think about it. It’s kinda pricey, but it pays for itself after a few jobs…..It’s awesome. And you love Milwaukee tools so there’s a win-win!! Haha
And we cut a ton of wire with the interchangeable head. It’s so fast. Slices thru 500kcmil like nothing.
I forgot my next door neighbor a retired machinist sat in a lounge chair and watched me do the upgrade. I was 20 years when I did it,
Hey Ron, thanks for the video. In part 2 of this upgrade you talked about the multi wire branch circuits. Are those wired in the box as the top 6 breakers on the right side of the box? I assume so since they are done with double pole breakers which will both trip if one half trips.
I have at least one multi wire branch circuit in my house (kitchen) but unfortunately the breakers aren't next to each other right now. Would it be a good idea to have an electrician come out and fix this? Would it also make sense to upgrade to GFCI breakers as well since I don't currently have any GFCI protection in my kitchen?
The double pole breakers are for the MWBC's. They share a neutral conductor. Both of the hot legs should be on opposite legs so you dont overload the neutral conductor.
Good help is a rarity these days. There’s nothing worse than relying on other people and being in a wheelchair I have to rely on other people to run cables for me and do many other things that I can’t do that requires functioning legs.It’s a tad bit frustrating to say the least not being able to do simple 5 second task if I only I could stand up for just 5 seconds. I’m cursed with still enjoying working with my hands and doing physical labour while in a wheelchair.
I like that you use a professional labeling system to identify your breakers. I got a great deal on a used, like new Brother electricians label printer that I use to give everything I do a professional appearance and added utility. You might consider getting some professionally designed labels with your company logo and info to stick onto your panels for repeat business and easy service calls.
Thanks I found youtube chanel. Iam learning electricity. What number of wiring are you using for miror, and how to cut the power outside on mirror to upgrade panel. Please. Thak you.
A 200 amp single family dwelling service requires 2/0 AWG copper or 4/0 AWG aluminum.
Brings back memories I did this upgrade to my parents house in 1980 while working for a electrical contractor a permit was pulled it passed.
Ha, it's like romex but for service conductors.
It's done like this all over the Northeast.
You’re from Point Pleasant where they have the “Point Pleasant Police Depotment” 😊
Hi David, I'm not sure what you are referring to.
@@electricalron Sorry…it’s a skit they use to do on the Jimmy Fallon show. Ha. I’m a journeyman and I enjoy watching your content. Nice work.
So what had my pucker factor at full-scale is seeing you connect your feeders to the service lines. Aluminum ladder? And your proximity to the grounded metal conduit with no gloves or limb coverings would scare the begezus out of me. Am I correct in seeing this as a risky situation or am I missing something?
Fiberglass Werner 28’ 300lb’r.
Is it a N.J. thing with red on the left. Always thought Black,Red,Blue.Nice job other wise
It’s single phase and it does not matter. Black Red Blue is a three-phase configuration so motors spin the right way.
can you cover a video with Circuit breaker Surge protector?
Sure can.
How do you make sure that you aren't grounded? By the way, there is no way I am going near a live wire. I am curious as your comment about "make sure that you aren't grounded" when connecting the city wire to the new house wire.
Because if you’re grounded you give a path for electrons to flow.
Does NJ require the exterior disconnect for fire on the service?
Nope! Not until 9/6/23.
Im not very familiar with SE cable like that. Are the conductors themselves labled with their insulation class? I know NM cannot be removed from its sheath to sleeve it in conduit, but wasnt sure about SE like this.
Service-entrance cable is a listed and approved wiring method for service entrance conductors.
Are you required to have your work inspected afterwards?
Of course. It passed no problem.
Square d panel cover screws always have alignment issue
I'm in Central NJ and I'm considering a panel replacement and service upgrade. How much does a job like this cost?
Each one is different but they’re starting at $2800.00.
Would you get shocked if your touching both ends of the line wire on the incoming service ?
Yes.
People say you should brush the antioxidants on the wire itself. Did you ever hear that?
Rather than contemplate the loss of your face or hands, how about you put the panel cover on before energizing the bus? It would take five minutes tops. And maybe meg-ohm the bus and feeder (branch OCPDs in the OPEN position) up to the weatherhead before energizing? And wear insulated gloves with leather outers to make up the utility, just as the lineman would?
Sure, if I can get the utility company to supply all the tools/ clothing necessary to do all that.
How do you make sure your not grounded ?
Insulated equipment/ tools.
what gauge is the cable
Look like 4/0 New Jersey is on the 2017 code
Seems panel cover screw holes for square d are always out of alignment
You ain’t kidding!!
Hey Ron , it looked like the ladder was aluminum. Is that a path to Ground?.. Thanks for the video , i did enjoy! Always looking to learn... p.s. great name! Sussex county , NJ
Did you really think I'd be tying in a service with an aluminum ladder? Always fiberglass.
@@electricalron And the orange fiberglass for us big guys lol
Nice clean install but this wouldn’t pass code here in Florida
Oh is that right? Why not.
@@electricalron
Florida is on the 2020code the disconnect must be outside next to meter also FPNL requires the grounding be connected in the meter
@@sciatl2505 NJ is 2017 NEC
@@sciatl2505 The NEC allows the GEC to be terminated in either the meter base or the service disconnect equipment. So if "FPNL" requires something else, it's irrelevant elsewhere.
Surprised you’re using seu for the riser……didn’t know anyone still used that crap 🤮
Just busting chops brother. You do great work
Holy cow that's a lot of antioxidant!!! If u read the bottle it tells u to wipe off excess. But like u put in video, u don't need it. Lol. If that wire corrodes, then u might as well smear it all over the lugs, buss, and all. Same material. It actually changes the torque spec. Which goes against UL listing. Which goes against code. Which is WRONG. So going above and beyond is not what ur doing there. Same as "adding extra grounds to make the house safer" kind of logic. Pure ignorance. Good job tho with the rest of the work!!! I'm h3//bent on getting antioxidants off the market.
Don’t worry I know all about grounding and only a fool would add additional grounds to “improve” the grounding.
@Electrician Ron "additional" grounds connected properly to the main grounding system is amazing. So yes, more grounds the better in ONLY that senerio. Mainly talking about Separately Derived Systems. I.E. home standby generators with their own ground rod. Big no no. Some ppl install ground rods at heat pumps. Also huge no no. The Grounding Differential Potential is huge in the instant lighting were to strike. Causing thousands of volts to go up the EGC and potentially burn ur, or ur clients, home to the ground. So yes, "more grounds the better" saying can and will be extremely dangerous for those arrogant people set in their ways.
Your work looks good! We do the exact same process here in St. Louis Missouri.
However our utility company here requires the meter base with a lever bypass.
I run my own company here and operate the same way you do.
Good looking work!
Cheers brother!