You can. He catches details like derating the SER because its a feeder and securing the romex within 1 foot of the panel that most electricians I know miss.
DO I HAVE TO USE 1/0 CABLE (3 TRIPLEX) OR 4/0 (4PLEX) FOR CALIFORNIA PGE PANEL UPGRADE? THE ONE FROM THE POLE TO MY HOUSE IS 3TRIPLEX 1/0 CABLE!! PLEASE HELP
Great vid, but there are a couple things that would be a great add, explain why are the breakers all on 1 side in the subpanel..(does it matter?), also what is the gauge on the wire from main to sub?, also How many breakers can you use in a sub box and how is the breaker amperage determined when choosing the breaker for the main box? Placement of the wires in the main box in terms of where does the Red hot go vs the black? …these would be great adds
Hey to answer a couple of your questions. The placement of the black or red dose not matter. With ac the polarity swaps 60 times a second(60 hz) as long as you keep the hot off the neutral bar your good
The size of sub panel is based on what ever you need. You can make it as big as the service breaker. You have 100amp coming in you can use a 100amp breaker it supply a 100 amp sub panel.
Breaker size dose not matter it is the service rating of your home. The is a calculated amount based off your square footage the size of oven and all other loads such as dryer ac and electric heat. As long as your new calculated service rating dose not go above the amps you have for your service your good.
Kudos to you for catching the derating. Your deox isn't required on an A8000 series alloy, which all aluminum wire is required to be since the 80's. It isn't bad to use though. It is only required when reworking old actual aluminum connections. And you got the supports within a foot of the box.
This is an impressive video. Very organized and thorough and well thought out. I really like that, instead of just adding the usual "I'm not an electrician" disclaimer you actually brought a professional electrician in to do parts of the video. It's also very well filmed.
Best subpanel installation video I have seen! Thanks for all the amplifying information and shopping list. Most people at the big box stores do not provide the information.
I'm thinking I would have come out of that panel on the right side and relocated (2) of the circuits to the MLO panel on the left so that all of the sub panel feeders are derived from the same feeder from the main. Sad that someone would wire a sub panel without an EGC but it's rewarding to know that good electricians can identify this issue and make it right. Nice video I enjoyed watching it.
Thank you for consolidating all of this information into a very professionally made video. I will have to be doing this installation soon, and this reference seems to be a good trustworthy one-stop-shop. As a courtesy for your efforts, I've also liked, subscribed, and clicked the bell for your channel. Thank you
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
I’m sorry but all this “check with your inspector and ask him for guidance” is absolute joke. I’m not sure if you’re living on a different planet but inspectors HATE you as a DIYer. They will do nothing to help you and will actively try to put roadblocks in the way of you are doing something DIY. They are usually past tradesmen and loathe the idea you don’t need them or a licensed electrician.
55 years in the trade as a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor and the only time that I have ever used Aluminum Wiring was for a underground feeder from the Outside 120/240 VAC 200 Amp Meter base on a Power pole to a Main Panel ! And that was a USE Triplex Direct Burial cable approved by the Power Company and AHJ . I sleeved it in 2 '' Schedule 80 PVC Conduit buried 24 '' below grade for a 50' run .
For example Main House panel to Workshop 100 amp sub panel the direct burial cable you would use is "Triplex Direct Burial"? That is only 3 lines, I do not need four like this video talks about?
Many ,many new licensed individuals are not qualified guys many of them faked their resume for the 2 years required experience in the field for residential wiring and 4 years experience for commercial wiring ok and I mean many of them are trying To work O j t - means on the job training ok
Lol I didn't catch that the first time watching. Me personally I use a robertson/square bit for real good torque but specs on receps arnt high like 15 to 20 ft pounds so it doesn't take much. Over tourquing is a thing btw and can damage conductors.
Good overall... but my question is why show a subpanel run from another subpanel (that was wired incorrectly) instead of to the main panel which most people will be doing. I found this to be confusing.
Mainly cause main panel is full most time or it's easier to access. I think in this case there was more room? Idk but I believe that may be why and also he was gonna have to re work and add a ground and float the sub panel he is feeding from so why not lol
Exactly my question, and says to "add ground bar and remove the bond strap" with just an absent minded wave at the box, doesn't show wtf he's even talking about.
So I'm to understand, the box he's wiring at 17:00 was actually another sub panel? But if it was a real main panel, you would actually leave the bonding screw and ground connecting the ground and neutral? That part was actually quite confusing.
always a dummy in the bunch, i have asked 3 electricians and gotten 3 answers. Can an aluminum triplex be run underground in conduit? wanting to run 100 amp sub to a shop 100 feet distance. charts say i need to use a 1/0 wire. was thinking triplex for economics of the run. also since triplex is 3 wire, cant the ground be run with a stake at the shop end?
Forget what you’ve heard. Yes you can but don’t. For a 100 amp feeder, you would need 2-2-2-4 URD DYKE (that’s just what they call it). That is a burial grade cable but you can run it in conduit if you want. And no “stake” at the end. The #4 in the 2-2-2-4 would be your grounding conductor.
By the NEC 2020 Code , ALL 120 VAC 15 & 20 Amp branch circuits are to be on AFCI Breakers ! And if it's for Outside Receptacles , Garage Receptacles , Kitchen Receptacles and Bathroom receptacles , has to be on Combination AFCI & GFCI Breakers !!
Great video! I like how instead of you telling us what you think is correct, you have the professionals who KNOW what is correct doing the instruction! Time to go check out some of your other videos now!
Greetings - Nice video but there are some things folks need to consider. I will detail them here for your viewers. 1) The abrasion bushing is not required for use with cable, while it is above the minimums it is simply not necessary as the clamp will secure the cable in place. The bushings that are mandated via 300.4(G) or within the specific raceway articles are for abrasion while doing the install as well as after the install. Notice that 300.4(G) makes no mention of cable. 2) The use of Anti-Oxidation Paste is optional unless mandated by the manufacturer. In fact, none of the UL 67 listed panelboards require or are testing with anti-oxidant compounds. Now, that is also optional and above the minimum standards so the reason I mention this is not to let an inspector tell you otherwise. However, we at Electrical Code Academy, Inc. encourage its use. 3) You really should mention that all terminations MUST be torqued to a specific inch pound or foot pound depending on the termination size, this is part of 110.3(B) as the manufactures state these values on the labels in the cabinet but also as required in 110.14(D) as well. This is vital to the longevity of the termination due to conductor thermal expansion and contraction over time, too tight is equally as bad as too lose. 4) The panel your "electrician" is using is improperly wired as noted. However, he made a statement that he would come back and install a separate equipment grounding bus (terminal bar) but to do that he also would need to replace that SER Cable between the two enclosures since that would need to take place first before any new EGC bar was added otherwise it defeats the purpose and doesn't remove the improper case to neutral connection of 250.24(A)(5) from taking place. 5) Never use anything to "bang" in a circuit breaker. Just firm pressure as it could be a gapping issue that "banging" it in could create more issues, such as arching and poor surface contact due to gap displacement so push firm but never "BANG" it in place with the back of a hammer. Just some things for your viewers to think about......as the NEC is a minimum safety standard and going above the minimums are fine but maintaining the minimums are required. Semper Fi Soldier.
Thank you my friend very well done you are a great teacher I will be installing 100-amp subpanel which will be 60 feet from the main panel any suggestion related to wire how many breakers does,or advisable for panel box 100 amp in your opinion. I hope something good happen for you today
Missed something... I see that the first subpanel installation incorrectly cut the ground wire instead of separating it to its own bus in the subpanel. I also see that you've attempted to correct that by adding a seperate ground bus and and isolating the neutrals from it then connecting the ground wire from the new subpanel to it. But I didn't see where you returned the new corrected ground to the main panel. As far as I can tell, there is no ground returning either subpanel back to the main panel. Is that correct?
I know this was 4 months ago but I hate when a valid question goes unanswered. So the video doesn't actually show them fixing the issues with the existing subpanel. It cuts from him hooking up the wire in the existing subpanel abd explaining what was needed to fix it, to the new subpanel in the addition...you are correct in order to fix the existing subpanel they need to extend the ground to the main panel...
Really liked your video. I learned a lot. I saw that there is a maximum height for the sub panel box, is the a minimum height for the box? Thanks for your help.
Absolute amazing video, lot of information and well explained, I’m impressed, I looked everywhere to find information about this. I’m very grateful. Thank you do much.
Why are you applying anti-ox compound? Its not required by the NEC, or the the wire MFG or the panel/lug MFG, and the wire does not oxidize unless your using wire from pre-1980. In the section of the video about connecting the sub panel to the main panel; It was said to add a grounding bar and move all the grounding wires to the bar. It should be noted, the grounding conductor coming into the panel as to be added first or it will be and ungrounded system. Torqueing per the MFG instruction and the NEC was also missed.
I'm an electrical engineer but not an electrician. I've wired several houses and various projects but don't do it enough to remember all the details. These videos are great for that, especially from someone who is a professional everyday person. Everything he's done is exactly how I do it and that's refreshing knowing I'm doing it right. Funny story...my dad, also an electrical engineer, but not an electrician was wiring an addition to the house, and I was helping. I was around 12-13 and for the next 20 years thinking "white" was hot and "black" was neutral. I was changing a plug on the 2nd floor and didn't bother killing the circuit. Instead, I just remembered to NOT touch the white wire. When it came to the black wire...well, I was "shocked". An electrician friend finally clued me in. Fast forward another 10 years and while talking to my dad, I told him what my electrician friend told me. He started snickering and said he ended up going back and rewiring the addition, black to hot. Needless to say, I was "shocked" again and told him my experience asked if he didn't think it important letting me know he taught me wrong, instead of me learning the hard way? He kept snickering....
@8:04 Square D, and probably others, require you to remove 3 screws from the ground bar to install the lug adapter to ensure the full length of the lug is in contact with thr ground bar.
Hey Sarg, at about 06:35, your Master Electrician talked about de-rating or lowering the current rating of the wire when in insulation. Can you please ask him about this? I am studying for an exam and feel frustrated that I cannot find specifics in the code book other than 310.14 (A).(3). and a formula in 310.15 (B).(1). It sounded like he was giving some good conservative advice, I am just hoping for more information. Thanks Brother.
When sizing service feeders they just have to be able to handle 83% of the service ampacity so for a 100 amp service you need service conductors with an ampacity of 83 amps. if you go to the chart on 310.15b16 you find al #2 in the 75 degree column (because SER cable shown here has XHHW-2 conductors which are rated at 90 degree but your terminals limit you to 75 degree) has an ampacity of 90 amps. Now i too see nowhere it talks about "ran through insulation" in the code book for derating factors. With no mention of ambient temperature correction, voltage drop and there are no more than 3 current carrying conductors I don't see why to derate to 80 amps 90 should be acceptable but if someone find where this is a code reference would be helpful.
So if I'm trying to install a 100 amp sub panel and the wire is going 30' through an uninsulated crawlspace, and then the last 15' through insulation, do I use 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 stranded aluminum SER?
Thank you so much for this video. I'm doing a travel trailer remodel into a tiny home and we are ditching the distro panel for a breaker box so we can run more power into the unit and have full size appliances. This gives me the confidence to take the project on!!!
I need to install a 100 amp sub panel that's going about 175 feet from my house. I know I need feeder wire and was thinking about using aluminum wire but I keep getting conflicting information. Some say I need 2/0 aluminum feeder and some say 4/0 aluminum feeder. What would you recommend and should I just not be cheap and go with copper wire and if so what size? If you can give me any advice I would deeply appreciate you and it would be a blessing. Thank you and great video.
What would I do if I have three #6 Copper conductors over 200' to an outbuilding, so no ground lead from Main Panel. Two 120V circuits in the outbuilding. Currently ground and neutral from all outlets are "bonded" to outlet neutral leads and supply Neutral in the sunpanel. Can I just drive a ground rod for the building and move the outlet grounds to that, or MUST I run a 4th conductor for ground? BTW, I'm concerned more with the SAFE way than the legal way ;)
Which is better a Sub panel or a manual 6- Circuit transfer switch , which will last longer ? Next to I can add more then 6 ~ Circuits to a Sub panel , the ALL POWER MANUAL TRANSFER SWITCH is only 35A @ 120v And A Question if anyone is able to answer “ My inverter is 230v 96A x 1 phase can I take and wire it to 1 phase and bend a wire like a U from One circuit breaker to the other on a 120 V breaker bixv 100 amp circuit breaker box ?
The manufacturer of that panel says not to use any anti oxidants that have petroleum in them. The one you are using has Petrolatum. Petrolatum, or petroleum jelly, derived from petroleum. So you are not suppose to use that product on Square D panels. ********************** "The use of an antioxidant , such as Noalox, on Panelboard Main Lugs is not required. The lugs are UL listed for use with copper or aluminum conductors without the use of ANY anti-oxidation supplement. The use of an antioxidant is not prohibited, but assurances must be made that the brand used, is a NON PETROLEUM based product. If a petroleum based product is used and comes in contact with the insulating base, the insulating base material can be degraded. "
I hate watching Untrained '' Amateurs ''doing Electrical Work that should be done by Trained Certified Licensed Electrical Professionals !!! So many mistakes, shoddy work practices, and not knowing the CODES !!!
Very informative video. Thank your for sharing your knowledge. Question: In your video, you run a 4-wire cable from one subpanel to another subpanel. I take it that doing that is OK. Am I right?
Great video! I see that you used aluminum wiring. Do you need to add the antioxidant when using copper wire? Also, I need to add a sub panel in my house but the main panel is rated at 100 amps and is full. Can a 80 or 100 amp sub panel be added as I require a 220 volt circuits and 20 amp outlets for operating tools and equipment?
Well if you watched the video it says only needed with aluminum because copper can't be used. If you have to ask questions that are already answered you should prob hire someone this is dangerous if you aren't fully aware.
No you don’t use it on copper it won’t hurt but Just not needed. Also per code it’s not needed on the newer aluminum wire any more we use now days. It was needed for old school aluminum because it would heat up, but the stuff we use today is not pure aluminum so per code it’s not needed. But I do recommend it because it can help with corrosion especially if you live near the ocean like Florida or Cali …
Antioxidant isn't required on copper wire because even when it oxidizes, it does not lose any of it's conductivity. It's not even needed for Aluminum (AA-8000) but it doesn't hurt to use it. You can add a subpanel of any size since you'll be restricted by the breaker at the main panel. You can go with 100A for the subpanel but if your main is already full and you think it's not enough, would be best to upgrade to a 200A service.
Thanks for sharing the video Leather! Need some guidance and honest opinion on whether it makes more sense to add an EV connector to my current 100A panel, or do you suggest adding a sub-panel specifically for it? We do not have solar, but would program and charge the vehicle during non-peak hours throughout the night when needed. Thanks in advance and Semper Fi.
Thanks for your video. I truly appreciate it, but I am one of those people who feel like something is missing. From the beginning when you started to doing the subpanel I didn’t see where the 4 wire came from or how it’s connected to the main box.
HELP, please. We have a 97 Pennical doublewide Zone III. One by one the recepticals are failing and a few switches. The recepticals actually start scorching. One actually caught fire. One company refused the job. They said it would take up too much time. They suggested I move. Or get somewhere cheaper like a zone 1 or a shed. I was referred by a business owner to an independent worker. He has come out and said that the neutral bar is bad. I have the cover off the panel (Cutler Hammer 200 Amp interior Main panel, original. The service is on a pole) I see absolutely no obvious damage or loose wiring. He said his meter showed 0 ( I think) It is all too much. He said he was surptised than any of the recepticals are working. He put the meter on it. He also found nothing loose. I allowed him to order a new bar (already paid for it.) I dont know much about electric supply for a house (I have done things like running new wires and installing recepticals and breakers.) I also ran the 220 for my former home. But this has me baffled. I tried to replace switch to outside light and gave up. It has the push in type fidgit box with the blades. I know that mobile homes are different. Ive been told that trailer panels have their own grounding. ??? I just need your opinion as to this issue. Ive been trying ever since my husband passed to get someone to help me fix it. Ive called every name Ive been given. Only 3 have shown up in 7 years. I ran the first one off. He was a total jerk. Do you think that he or I might be missing something? Call me desperate.
So how do you figure out if you need a sub panel? Can you add a sub panel to a house that already has a 100 amp service?? I'm buying a house with a 100amp service but I would like it upgraded to 200amp service. But if I can just add a sub panel for the other 100amp that would be great!!
Sgt???? Why leave everything to the Inspector??????????????? I say we leave fear and brown nosing in a forgotten corner In a far Hanger !! Just saying ! And that's my opinion and of course it's not a fact !!! But whom am I today to argue with anyone in a world where the wrong is right !!!!!?????
Sarge, you stated you are installing a new sub-panel that is powered from an existing previously installed "old" sub-panel that is powered by another older sub panel. This is confusing. I came here looking for example of installing a sub panel off of a main panel and it started out great but.... Sir, with respect the connection to the old sub panel has stumped me a bit. The connections made in the "new" sub panel were very clear but when connecting it to the old so panel not so much. You did not have the ground bar to be added but you stated once the new ground bar is installed that all existing grounds are to be moved to the added ground bar and that the two existing bar will be strictly for neutral. Is that typical for an installation of one new sub panel to one existing main panel? How is your "new" sub panel actually grounded if the "old" sub panel has no ground wire as it was cut off by someone else? Also at the end you stated something very important, "REMOVING THE BOND STRAP" but gave it zero explanation.
Sergeant Donovan,? When were you in the Marine Corps? And were you and 1142 what was your room or west? I was in the core 79 to 92. One of my several MOS is was 1142 I was the individual with every time they said “we need to warm bodies for this school or that school. I always had my hand in the air.
Please i want to get this clear. According to the link: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxGCAUW6y90FseuIsIN4M263BlVkk2Fp0q. Neutral wires that are twisted together, when loosed can introduce a back feed of 240v that can burn up the devices for opposite phases. However, you still connected the two neutrals wires on a common busbar. Will it not have thesame effect when you try to loose them from the busbar?
The format is great and I can certainly appreciate that but it doesn't address a lot of things and creates at least one violation. It's a sub from a sub. Does one of those subs have to be series rated? De ox hasn't been required on those conductors in decades. The aluminum wire is damaged. There's stripping with linesman and dykes. The extension of grounding conductors in the branch ckt box is too short. The first sub panel is recessed to far and creates exposure more than 1/4". There's no torque wrench, no torque screwdriver, not even a mention of the mfg torque requirement. The bushing on the first sub panel isn't required because it doesn't do anything. This shows all the bad habits that shouldn't be reproduced.
I think black and white stripe wire should be neutral and the solid black power. He has it connected the opposite way. I guess he wanted to match the black and red stripe wire to it. But I have never seen a solid black wire used as neutral????😢😮😅
People KILL the cable with no-ox. Is that really necessary? Ive used enough to make sure theres a film over all the surface but dont goop it up like mad.
Great video, but I have conduit. I added a sub panel and have no ground wires. My feed was 3 wires, 2 hots and a neutral. The conduit bonds the grounds together between the two boxes. Is it “legal”?
Except in England you would not be allowed to carry out this work and if you did no insurance company would give you insurance and if something went wrong and possibly people get injured or killed you would be in prison for a long time,is everybody allowed to act like a cowboy in your country?
Show me in the nec where subpanel is talked about. There is no such word or code section. Part of the problem is the slang in terms causing confusion. Appreciate the effort though
I replaced my own breaker box with a bigger one. Did the reinstall just how the old one was, all grounds on the bonding. 2 inspectors had no issue with that... Not a damn thing connected to an entire grounding bar that was preinstalled in the box.
what I dislike about this video that you jumped to a different project setting when connecting the subpanel to the main, it is confusing. but thanks for all the info.
So with the 4 wire cable with a 80 amp breaker running downstairs of the house to the conectected garage. does the 4 wires cable need to be in a pvc pipe?
Why this master electrician is cutting conductors too short in the panel, grounds too short in a 1 gang box, and wiring receptacles with hot wire first ground last is beyond me. Thought he knows better
On the second example he didn’t say any thing about how dangerous it was that the grounding wire that had been cut off and not connected or that he needed to connect it to the grounding terminal. Thats a pretty big GAFF boys.
So even if you have a main disconnect in the sub panel (I have one in both sub and main), grounds and neutrals still need to be separated until it reaches the main?
Safety glasses on top of the head are useless. Every part of this job had potential for eye injury. 2nd guy no safety glasses also until he needed his magnefiers.
This is a very well done video, I love the Shopping List you provided and the detail you put into making this Amazing video...Thank you! You have earned my Subscription.
What sup on blood tv and nap with the team that lights it and for real it's like I'm more bringing on hell not this life I want this life and bringing it on all you have to do is face it and stop building piping and placing pipes and stringing the fan so with all my life I'm in love today with the rest of the time appointed for me hello my favorite is ink on skin and no hair
I feel as though I can trust this information. That means a lot. Semper Fi
You can. He catches details like derating the SER because its a feeder and securing the romex within 1 foot of the panel that most electricians I know miss.
DO I HAVE TO USE 1/0 CABLE (3 TRIPLEX) OR 4/0 (4PLEX) FOR CALIFORNIA PGE PANEL UPGRADE? THE ONE FROM THE POLE TO MY HOUSE IS 3TRIPLEX 1/0 CABLE!! PLEASE HELP
@@michael7324 if i wanted to hire an electrician and pay $300/hr, i would not be here!! lol
@@infoinfo3594 Maybe you should ASK an electrician. I sir am not...
Sempre Fi
Great vid, but there are a couple things that would be a great add, explain why are the breakers all on 1 side in the subpanel..(does it matter?), also what is the gauge on the wire from main to sub?, also How many breakers can you use in a sub box and how is the breaker amperage determined when choosing the breaker for the main box? Placement of the wires in the main box in terms of where does the Red hot go vs the black? …these would be great adds
Hey to answer a couple of your questions. The placement of the black or red dose not matter. With ac the polarity swaps 60 times a second(60 hz) as long as you keep the hot off the neutral bar your good
The side or location of breakers do not matter you can put them in any order.
The size of sub panel is based on what ever you need. You can make it as big as the service breaker. You have 100amp coming in you can use a 100amp breaker it supply a 100 amp sub panel.
Breaker size dose not matter it is the service rating of your home. The is a calculated amount based off your square footage the size of oven and all other loads such as dryer ac and electric heat. As long as your new calculated service rating dose not go above the amps you have for your service your good.
The gage of wire is based on the size of your service going in.100 amp sub panel will need a larger wire than a 60 amp sub panel.
Hire a professional. Electrical fires are the number one cause for homes burning down in the United States.
Kudos to you for catching the derating. Your deox isn't required on an A8000 series alloy, which all aluminum wire is required to be since the 80's. It isn't bad to use though. It is only required when reworking old actual aluminum connections.
And you got the supports within a foot of the box.
Why he derrated? Cause of the SE cable?
@Rayray He said he went thru insulation. I'm sure there is the distance factor as well.
This is an impressive video. Very organized and thorough and well thought out. I really like that, instead of just adding the usual "I'm not an electrician" disclaimer you actually brought a professional electrician in to do parts of the video. It's also very well filmed.
Best subpanel installation video I have seen! Thanks for all the amplifying information and shopping list. Most people at the big box stores do not provide the information.
If the folks working at the big box store know what they're doing, they wouldn't be working at the big box store.
Yep watched a number of them and they were missing something. This is THOROUGH 😊😊😊
I'm thinking I would have come out of that panel on the right side and relocated (2) of the circuits to the MLO panel on the left so that all of the sub panel feeders are derived from the same feeder from the main. Sad that someone would wire a sub panel without an EGC but it's rewarding to know that good electricians can identify this issue and make it right. Nice video I enjoyed watching it.
Thank you for consolidating all of this information into a very professionally made video. I will have to be doing this installation soon, and this reference seems to be a good trustworthy one-stop-shop. As a courtesy for your efforts, I've also liked, subscribed, and clicked the bell for your channel. Thank you
No
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
I’m sorry but all this “check with your inspector and ask him for guidance” is absolute joke. I’m not sure if you’re living on a different planet but inspectors HATE you as a DIYer. They will do nothing to help you and will actively try to put roadblocks in the way of you are doing something DIY. They are usually past tradesmen and loathe the idea you don’t need them or a licensed electrician.
I’d like to know how he fixed that cut off ground in the sub panel feeder.
Install a seperate ground from the main panel to the existing sub.
55 years in the trade as a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor and the only time that I have ever used Aluminum Wiring was for a underground feeder from the Outside 120/240 VAC 200 Amp Meter base on a Power pole to a Main Panel ! And that was a USE Triplex Direct Burial cable approved by the Power Company and AHJ . I sleeved it in 2 '' Schedule 80 PVC Conduit buried 24 '' below grade for a 50' run .
For example Main House panel to Workshop 100 amp sub panel the direct burial cable you would use is "Triplex Direct Burial"? That is only 3 lines, I do not need four like this video talks about?
@@adampricer6131 you do need 4-wire
Thanks for listing out your entire resume and work experience 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Many ,many new licensed individuals are not qualified guys many of them faked their resume for the 2 years required experience in the field for residential wiring and 4 years experience for commercial wiring ok and I mean many of them are trying
To work O j t - means on the job training ok
Great electrical instructions. Very precise and easy to understand and especially without dumb music in the background.
Excellent video! However, at 32:40, I do think the Electrician needs a longer screwdriver, to tighten the terminals on the GFCI receptacle.
Lol I didn't catch that the first time watching. Me personally I use a robertson/square bit for real good torque but specs on receps arnt high like 15 to 20 ft pounds so it doesn't take much. Over tourquing is a thing btw and can damage conductors.
Can I install NEMA 14/50 to charge my Tesla from this 100A sub-panel?
Good overall... but my question is why show a subpanel run from another subpanel (that was wired incorrectly) instead of to the main panel which most people will be doing. I found this to be confusing.
Mainly cause main panel is full most time or it's easier to access. I think in this case there was more room? Idk but I believe that may be why and also he was gonna have to re work and add a ground and float the sub panel he is feeding from so why not lol
Exactly my question, and says to "add ground bar and remove the bond strap" with just an absent minded wave at the box, doesn't show wtf he's even talking about.
So I'm to understand, the box he's wiring at 17:00 was actually another sub panel? But if it was a real main panel, you would actually leave the bonding screw and ground connecting the ground and neutral? That part was actually quite confusing.
Same issue I have with this video. Moving onto the next video and this one is getting a thumbsdown from me.
The excellent laborer has a few videos with a little more detail. I think might help you out.
always a dummy in the bunch, i have asked 3 electricians and gotten 3 answers. Can an aluminum triplex be run underground in conduit? wanting to run 100 amp sub to a shop 100 feet distance. charts say i need to use a 1/0 wire. was thinking triplex for economics of the run. also since triplex is 3 wire, cant the ground be run with a stake at the shop end?
Forget what you’ve heard. Yes you can but don’t. For a 100 amp feeder, you would need 2-2-2-4 URD DYKE (that’s just what they call it). That is a burial grade cable but you can run it in conduit if you want. And no “stake” at the end. The #4 in the 2-2-2-4 would be your grounding conductor.
By the NEC 2020 Code , ALL 120 VAC 15 & 20 Amp branch circuits are to be on AFCI Breakers ! And if it's for Outside Receptacles , Garage Receptacles , Kitchen Receptacles and Bathroom receptacles , has to be on Combination AFCI & GFCI Breakers !!
Not exactly but okay
@@electricaf365 ; Yes, EXACTLY because it is CODE !!!!
@@electricaf365I was worried this was true, can you explain why it isn't?
idk why I watch these videos even though I'm an electrician and already know all of this lol.
Because wise people(like you) realize they can always learn something new. or a better way to do something.
#LifelongLearning
Thing is, CAN you always see the mistakes made by others? The NEC has its merits, NOT ALL
ELECTRICAL WORK IS DONE
"CORRECTLY!!!!"
They have never tongues like a silver tongue devil whom can sell you ice in Alaska
A real electrician would be cursing the whole time.
Great video! I like how instead of you telling us what you think is correct, you have the professionals who KNOW what is correct doing the instruction! Time to go check out some of your other videos now!
Greetings - Nice video but there are some things folks need to consider. I will detail them here for your viewers. 1) The abrasion bushing is not required for use with cable, while it is above the minimums it is simply not necessary as the clamp will secure the cable in place. The bushings that are mandated via 300.4(G) or within the specific raceway articles are for abrasion while doing the install as well as after the install. Notice that 300.4(G) makes no mention of cable. 2) The use of Anti-Oxidation Paste is optional unless mandated by the manufacturer. In fact, none of the UL 67 listed panelboards require or are testing with anti-oxidant compounds. Now, that is also optional and above the minimum standards so the reason I mention this is not to let an inspector tell you otherwise. However, we at Electrical Code Academy, Inc. encourage its use. 3) You really should mention that all terminations MUST be torqued to a specific inch pound or foot pound depending on the termination size, this is part of 110.3(B) as the manufactures state these values on the labels in the cabinet but also as required in 110.14(D) as well. This is vital to the longevity of the termination due to conductor thermal expansion and contraction over time, too tight is equally as bad as too lose. 4) The panel your "electrician" is using is improperly wired as noted. However, he made a statement that he would come back and install a separate equipment grounding bus (terminal bar) but to do that he also would need to replace that SER Cable between the two enclosures since that would need to take place first before any new EGC bar was added otherwise it defeats the purpose and doesn't remove the improper case to neutral connection of 250.24(A)(5) from taking place. 5) Never use anything to "bang" in a circuit breaker. Just firm pressure as it could be a gapping issue that "banging" it in could create more issues, such as arching and poor surface contact due to gap displacement so push firm but never "BANG" it in place with the back of a hammer. Just some things for your viewers to think about......as the NEC is a minimum safety standard and going above the minimums are fine but maintaining the minimums are required. Semper Fi Soldier.
Drywall screw smdh. We’re not carpenters we’re electricians buy a wafer head screw.
40 seconds into the video and I'm already liking it and subscribing
Whats with all the noalox? Kinda goupy. I thought a very thin coating was best, as its not very conductive?
😻😻😍😍🏡🏡❤️❤️🥰🥰🌹🌹💞💞🤩🤩💚🙋🙋👁️👁️🌹🌹💞💞👍👍👍🥰👷👷💞💞
This is an amazing tutorial. Thank you for all the thought and work you put into this it really helped.
Thanks!
Thank you my friend very well done you are a great teacher I will be installing 100-amp subpanel which will be 60 feet from the main panel any suggestion related to wire how many breakers does,or advisable for panel box 100 amp in your opinion.
I hope something good happen for you today
Missed something... I see that the first subpanel installation incorrectly cut the ground wire instead of separating it to its own bus in the subpanel. I also see that you've attempted to correct that by adding a seperate ground bus and and isolating the neutrals from it then connecting the ground wire from the new subpanel to it. But I didn't see where you returned the new corrected ground to the main panel. As far as I can tell, there is no ground returning either subpanel back to the main panel. Is that correct?
I know this was 4 months ago but I hate when a valid question goes unanswered. So the video doesn't actually show them fixing the issues with the existing subpanel. It cuts from him hooking up the wire in the existing subpanel abd explaining what was needed to fix it, to the new subpanel in the addition...you are correct in order to fix the existing subpanel they need to extend the ground to the main panel...
Can SER cable be run without conduit in a basement Inside the walls for a subpanel...?
Yes
@@electricaf365 this means yes to my question ...?
Really liked your video. I learned a lot. I saw that there is a maximum height for the sub panel box, is the a minimum height for the box? Thanks for your help.
why did you feed in like 10' of cable when you only needed 6" xD
I recommend hooking up the sub feed last. It makes installing the other wires much easier.
Easier and much safer. No lock out required
Nice. Should have watched this before I blew the main 200 amp breaker with panel screw touching a cable.
Absolute amazing video, lot of information and well explained, I’m impressed, I looked everywhere to find information about this. I’m very grateful.
Thank you do much.
I'm learning what I need to do from this video. Hope I don't burn the place down. Wish me luck boys.
Hope it turned out ok.
Why are you applying anti-ox compound? Its not required by the NEC, or the the wire MFG or the panel/lug MFG, and the wire does not oxidize unless your using wire from pre-1980.
In the section of the video about connecting the sub panel to the main panel; It was said to add a grounding bar and move all the grounding wires to the bar. It should be noted, the grounding conductor coming into the panel as to be added first or it will be and ungrounded system.
Torqueing per the MFG instruction and the NEC was also missed.
I'm an electrical engineer but not an electrician. I've wired several houses and various projects but don't do it enough to remember all the details. These videos are great for that, especially from someone who is a professional everyday person. Everything he's done is exactly how I do it and that's refreshing knowing I'm doing it right. Funny story...my dad, also an electrical engineer, but not an electrician was wiring an addition to the house, and I was helping. I was around 12-13 and for the next 20 years thinking "white" was hot and "black" was neutral. I was changing a plug on the 2nd floor and didn't bother killing the circuit. Instead, I just remembered to NOT touch the white wire. When it came to the black wire...well, I was "shocked". An electrician friend finally clued me in. Fast forward another 10 years and while talking to my dad, I told him what my electrician friend told me. He started snickering and said he ended up going back and rewiring the addition, black to hot. Needless to say, I was "shocked" again and told him my experience asked if he didn't think it important letting me know he taught me wrong, instead of me learning the hard way? He kept snickering....
Dad is a demon lol
As a Homeowner , IF you live outside of the City limits , you can do your Electrical Work without a permit !!
🤣🤣🤣🤣 100% not true
@8:04 Square D, and probably others, require you to remove 3 screws from the ground bar to install the lug adapter to ensure the full length of the lug is in contact with thr ground bar.
Hey Sarg, at about 06:35, your Master Electrician talked about de-rating or lowering the current rating of the wire when in insulation. Can you please ask him about this? I am studying for an exam and feel frustrated that I cannot find specifics in the code book other than 310.14 (A).(3). and a formula in 310.15 (B).(1).
It sounded like he was giving some good conservative advice, I am just hoping for more information.
Thanks Brother.
When sizing service feeders they just have to be able to handle 83% of the service ampacity so for a 100 amp service you need service conductors with an ampacity of 83 amps. if you go to the chart on 310.15b16 you find al #2 in the 75 degree column (because SER cable shown here has XHHW-2 conductors which are rated at 90 degree but your terminals limit you to 75 degree) has an ampacity of 90 amps. Now i too see nowhere it talks about "ran through insulation" in the code book for derating factors. With no mention of ambient temperature correction, voltage drop and there are no more than 3 current carrying conductors I don't see why to derate to 80 amps 90 should be acceptable but if someone find where this is a code reference would be helpful.
Man, you took all the guess work out of it Sgt.
From a retired Lt Col. Many Thanks !
Wulfy
A lot of great info being presented in a way that is very easy to understand. Well done.
Thanks for making this video, it was just what I needed to see how to wire a sub panel in my garage!!!!!!!! Great job !!!!!!!!!
So if I'm trying to install a 100 amp sub panel and the wire is going 30' through an uninsulated crawlspace, and then the last 15' through insulation, do I use 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 stranded aluminum SER?
Thank you so much for this video. I'm doing a travel trailer remodel into a tiny home and we are ditching the distro panel for a breaker box so we can run more power into the unit and have full size appliances. This gives me the confidence to take the project on!!!
I need to install a 100 amp sub panel that's going about 175 feet from my house. I know I need feeder wire and was thinking about using aluminum wire but I keep getting conflicting information. Some say I need 2/0 aluminum feeder and some say 4/0 aluminum feeder. What would you recommend and should I just not be cheap and go with copper wire and if so what size? If you can give me any advice I would deeply appreciate you and it would be a blessing. Thank you and great video.
I learned alot watching this guy do his work. He obviously has done this before. Thanks for making this.
What would I do if I have three #6 Copper conductors over 200' to an outbuilding, so no ground lead from Main Panel.
Two 120V circuits in the outbuilding.
Currently ground and neutral from all outlets are "bonded" to outlet neutral leads and supply Neutral in the sunpanel.
Can I just drive a ground rod for the building and move the outlet grounds to that, or MUST I run a 4th conductor for ground?
BTW, I'm concerned more with the SAFE way than the legal way ;)
Which is better a Sub panel or a manual 6- Circuit transfer switch , which will last longer ? Next to I can add more then 6 ~ Circuits to a Sub panel , the ALL POWER MANUAL TRANSFER SWITCH is only 35A @ 120v And A Question if anyone is able to answer “ My inverter is 230v 96A x 1 phase can I take and wire it to 1 phase and bend a wire like a U from One circuit breaker to the other on a 120 V breaker bixv 100 amp circuit breaker box ?
The manufacturer of that panel says not to use any anti oxidants that have petroleum in them. The one you are using has Petrolatum. Petrolatum, or petroleum jelly, derived from petroleum. So you are not suppose to use that product on Square D panels.
**********************
"The use of an antioxidant , such as Noalox, on Panelboard Main Lugs is not required.
The lugs are UL listed for use with copper or aluminum conductors without the use of ANY anti-oxidation supplement. The use of an antioxidant is not prohibited, but assurances must be made that the brand used, is a NON PETROLEUM based product. If a petroleum based product is used and comes in contact with the insulating base, the insulating base material can be degraded. "
I hate watching Untrained '' Amateurs ''doing Electrical Work that should be done by Trained Certified Licensed Electrical Professionals !!! So many mistakes, shoddy work practices, and not knowing the CODES !!!
Very informative video. Thank your for sharing your knowledge.
Question: In your video, you run a 4-wire cable from one subpanel to another subpanel. I take it that doing that is OK. Am I right?
How did you fix the 1st sub panel ground that was cut?
Great video! I see that you used aluminum wiring. Do you need to add the antioxidant when using copper wire? Also, I need to add a sub panel in my house but the main panel is rated at 100 amps and is full. Can a 80 or 100 amp sub panel be added as I require a 220 volt circuits and 20 amp outlets for operating tools and equipment?
Well if you watched the video it says only needed with aluminum because copper can't be used. If you have to ask questions that are already answered you should prob hire someone this is dangerous if you aren't fully aware.
No you don’t use it on copper it won’t hurt but Just not needed. Also per code it’s not needed on the newer aluminum wire any more we use now days. It was needed for old school aluminum because it would heat up, but the stuff we use today is not pure aluminum so per code it’s not needed. But I do recommend it because it can help with corrosion especially if you live near the ocean like Florida or Cali …
Antioxidant isn't required on copper wire because even when it oxidizes, it does not lose any of it's conductivity. It's not even needed for Aluminum (AA-8000) but it doesn't hurt to use it. You can add a subpanel of any size since you'll be restricted by the breaker at the main panel. You can go with 100A for the subpanel but if your main is already full and you think it's not enough, would be best to upgrade to a 200A service.
The inspector is not a guide for the untrained.
Thanks for sharing the video Leather! Need some guidance and honest opinion on whether it makes more sense to add an EV connector to my current 100A panel, or do you suggest adding a sub-panel specifically for it? We do not have solar, but would program and charge the vehicle during non-peak hours throughout the night when needed. Thanks in advance and Semper Fi.
Sorry for you clients that don't do your home work on your contractor , good luck many of your contractors have many lawsuits
Thanks for your video. I truly appreciate it, but I am one of those people who feel like something is missing. From the beginning when you started to doing the subpanel I didn’t see where the 4 wire came from or how it’s connected to the main box.
HELP, please. We have a 97 Pennical doublewide Zone III. One by one the recepticals are failing and a few switches. The recepticals actually start scorching. One actually caught fire. One company refused the job. They said it would take up too much time. They suggested I move. Or get somewhere cheaper like a zone 1 or a shed. I was referred by a business owner to an independent worker. He has come out and said that the neutral bar is bad. I have the cover off the panel (Cutler Hammer 200 Amp interior Main panel, original. The service is on a pole) I see absolutely no obvious damage or loose wiring. He said his meter showed 0 ( I think) It is all too much. He said he was surptised than any of the recepticals are working. He put the meter on it. He also found nothing loose. I allowed him to order a new bar (already paid for it.) I dont know much about electric supply for a house (I have done things like running new wires and installing recepticals and breakers.) I also ran the 220 for my former home. But this has me baffled. I tried to replace switch to outside light and gave up. It has the push in type fidgit box with the blades. I know that mobile homes are different. Ive been told that trailer panels have their own grounding. ??? I just need your opinion as to this issue. Ive been trying ever since my husband passed to get someone to help me fix it. Ive called every name Ive been given. Only 3 have shown up in 7 years. I ran the first one off. He was a total jerk. Do you think that he or I might be missing something? Call me desperate.
So how do you figure out if you need a sub panel? Can you add a sub panel to a house that already has a 100 amp service?? I'm buying a house with a 100amp service but I would like it upgraded to 200amp service. But if I can just add a sub panel for the other 100amp that would be great!!
Sgt???? Why leave everything to the Inspector??????????????? I say we leave fear and brown nosing in a forgotten corner In a far Hanger !! Just saying ! And that's my opinion and of course it's not a fact !!! But whom am I today to argue with anyone in a world where the wrong is right !!!!!?????
Sarge, you stated you are installing a new sub-panel that is powered from an existing previously installed "old" sub-panel that is powered by another older sub panel. This is confusing. I came here looking for example of installing a sub panel off of a main panel and it started out great but.... Sir, with respect the connection to the old sub panel has stumped me a bit.
The connections made in the "new" sub panel were very clear but when connecting it to the old so panel not so much.
You did not have the ground bar to be added but you stated once the new ground bar is installed that all existing grounds are to be moved to the added ground bar and that the two existing bar will be strictly for neutral. Is that typical for an installation of one new sub panel to one existing main panel? How is your "new" sub panel actually grounded if the "old" sub panel has no ground wire as it was cut off by someone else? Also at the end you stated something very important, "REMOVING THE BOND STRAP" but gave it zero explanation.
Hello please can you give me the NAME of a book that can help me learn Canadian and American domestic electrical wiring Please, I need it

Hey do you like making DIY videos and putting them on youtube? Don't bother. SGT.Donovan is all you will ever need...Should be a damn General btw!
Watch the Vid from Mike Holt.... NO oxide is needed or used in ANY of his installs and he explains why.
Sergeant Donovan,? When were you in the Marine Corps? And were you and 1142 what was your room or west? I was in the core 79 to 92. One of my several MOS is was 1142 I was the individual with every time they said “we need to warm bodies for this school or that school. I always had my hand in the air.
Please i want to get this clear. According to the link: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxGCAUW6y90FseuIsIN4M263BlVkk2Fp0q. Neutral wires that are twisted together, when loosed can introduce a back feed of 240v that can burn up the devices for opposite phases. However, you still connected the two neutrals wires on a common busbar. Will it not have thesame effect when you try to loose them from the busbar?
I am curious if the existing subpanel was inspected yet approved, shouldn't that inspector be reprimanded?😮
Studying for part 107 to be compliant with the FAA for flying drones commercially also
The format is great and I can certainly appreciate that but it doesn't address a lot of things and creates at least one violation.
It's a sub from a sub. Does one of those subs have to be series rated?
De ox hasn't been required on those conductors in decades. The aluminum wire is damaged. There's stripping with linesman and dykes. The extension of grounding conductors in the branch ckt box is too short. The first sub panel is recessed to far and creates exposure more than 1/4". There's no torque wrench, no torque screwdriver, not even a mention of the mfg torque requirement. The bushing on the first sub panel isn't required because it doesn't do anything. This shows all the bad habits that shouldn't be reproduced.
I think black and white stripe wire should be neutral and the solid black power. He has it connected the opposite way. I guess he wanted to match the black and red stripe wire to it. But I have never seen a solid black wire used as neutral????😢😮😅
I was looking at the chevron in the beginning… and by the time they said OOOOH RAY i had subed…. 29 palms for me devil
People KILL the cable with no-ox. Is that really necessary? Ive used enough to make sure theres a film over all the surface but dont goop it up like mad.
Sgt donovan like to connect a 3 phrase 80 curtis compressor230v with mag box what I need 50 amp ssg juarez
Great video, but I have conduit. I added a sub panel and have no ground wires. My feed was 3 wires, 2 hots and a neutral. The conduit bonds the grounds together between the two boxes. Is it “legal”?
He's Wrong again ! You are suppose to use Oxi-Guard Grease on all terminal connections of AL to AL and CU to AL !!
Except in England you would not be allowed to carry out this work and if you did no insurance company would give you insurance and if something went wrong and possibly people get injured or killed you would be in prison for a long time,is everybody allowed to act like a cowboy in your country?
Show me in the nec where subpanel is talked about. There is no such word or code section. Part of the problem is the slang in terms causing confusion. Appreciate the effort though
I replaced my own breaker box with a bigger one. Did the reinstall just how the old one was, all grounds on the bonding. 2 inspectors had no issue with that... Not a damn thing connected to an entire grounding bar that was preinstalled in the box.
what I dislike about this video that you jumped to a different project setting when connecting the subpanel to the main, it is confusing. but thanks for all the info.
Damn this dude didn't have his oxidizer gel in his Romex strippers not with them should have had a checklist before you did the video 😁🤔
So with the 4 wire cable with a 80 amp breaker running downstairs of the house to the conectected garage. does the 4 wires cable need to be in a pvc pipe?
Can an outlet for a level two charger (for electric car) be installed to the sub panel except to the GFCI Outlet? Is the install the same way?
1. Where is the bushing where the feeder enters the bottom of the panel. 2. the 3/4" romex connector is not rated for 3 12-2 cables.
Why this master electrician is cutting conductors too short in the panel, grounds too short in a 1 gang box, and wiring receptacles with hot wire first ground last is beyond me. Thought he knows better
So you don't even sleeve the earthwire with oversleeping,sorry that's just poor electrical practice in our country England
Great Vid but, you don't explain why CU stranded is more advantageous vs AL,
On the second example he didn’t say any thing about how dangerous it was that the grounding wire that had been cut off and not connected or that he needed to connect it to the grounding terminal. Thats a pretty big GAFF boys.
22:40 okay, here's the plan. take a couple of days, go home, get all your work tools in one place. when you think you're ready to work give us a call.
So even if you have a main disconnect in the sub panel (I have one in both sub and main), grounds and neutrals still need to be separated until it reaches the main?
i wonder if he cleaned up all that stuff he just chucked on the floor......probably not
Other than the service feed wiring from the utility, why on earth would you use aluminum wiring?
Safety glasses on top of the head are useless. Every part of this job had potential for eye injury. 2nd guy no safety glasses also until he needed his magnefiers.
I see my electrical box as an opportunity to flex on the neighbors, so I got 1000 Amp service put in. Wait till Flanders gets a load of this!
This is a very well done video, I love the Shopping List you provided and the detail you put into making this Amazing video...Thank you! You have earned my Subscription.
What sup on blood tv and nap with the team that lights it and for real it's like I'm more bringing on hell not this life I want this life and bringing it on all you have to do is face it and stop building piping and placing pipes and stringing the fan so with all my life I'm in love today with the rest of the time appointed for me hello my favorite is ink on skin and no hair
That's an mlo panel. You should never install a main breaker in it. And you alway start with landing the ground not the neutral or hots.
Neutral and ground aren't bonded in the subpanel because we want the fault to go back the the main panel and to ground from there?