An inspector taught me a trick for top hub assemblies. What I do now is I use the threaded hub, of course, then my male adapter, but instead of inserting the riser mast directly into the adapter I put about a 4" stub in there. Then I slide the bell end of my pipe over the stub and butt it up to the adapter. This way there is no lip for water to collect on; and if for some reason it separates there water would have to travel up the inside of the bell and over the stub to get into the can. Every video you get better and better; you're becoming a household name around here. Love that you learn from the feedback. Charge on! ⚡
nice. As a DIYer home owner, it is videos like this that I learn and improve my work. I have refactored my house electrical a couple of times over the past 25 years. The 125amp service I installed 25 years ago, including mast, meter base with disconnect outside and siemens panel, improved the VERY OLD 4 circuit FUSE panel - geeez - along with their tubes and knobs wiring. Bare wire mostly as the insulation was LONG GONE. It was nice to install the romex. The inspector was very helpful and pointed out my errors. Once fixed, it returned and all was well. I read the code and research what I NEED to do. Now I have been adding solar along with batteries. Out in Utah. Thanks for the videos for actual experiences you have
I love that you didn't edit out hitting yourself in the head with the enclosure cover! That's me all day long.... Plus seeing you not pretwist the conductors before putting on the wire nuts helps my arguments at work, haha
Pardon my ignorance here guys but, I thought you are not allowed to work on these things unless you are a license electrician. Maybe you are a license electrician ? I looked into this but in NJ (Ron you can correct me if I am wrong) you need a permit to electrical work. A part of the permit application HAS to be filled by a licensed electrician, with his or her license number. How would a DIY home owner would this work?
@@dennispatel6639 I am not licensed electrician, but here a homeowner can do the work. Other electric work inside the home as well. Just need the permit. I Live in Utah, different rules. I could not pull or install the meter but home owner can get a permit to do the work of service panel installation, after the city power company severs the grid connection. After disconnected, I installed the list of items I mentioned, then inspector came, ok'd it, he called the city utility who came back and reconnected the grid lines. Small rural city (20,000+). It is called the wild, wild west
@@norsk54472 Hey Thank you for breaking that down. I looked though the permit application once or twice and the instruction calls for a part of the application be filled out by a licensed electrician or an electrical contractor along with their ID number if i am not mistaking. So i am thinking, even to pull a permit you would need a licensed electrician. I have never tried pulling a permit or went though the process so idk this for sure. I really enjoy watching Rons videos, very informational. I might not be able to legally do the work but, i like to know how things are done.
Hi Ron love the videos, can believe how much I have learned from your videos. I was reading your intro and think you were a victim of auto correct, you have tricentennial for the period when you must have 34 hours of continuing education, I think the word should have been triennial. Great idea prepping ahead of time to catch errors in parts, I think everyone has been tripped up by supplier giving out the wrong part(s) at some point.
As far as i know, for the 100 amp breaker that was installed for the main service disconnect, a screw must be put though the breaker (notice the whole in the breaker for it) as another means of securing the main breaker. NEC 408.36(D): Back-Fed Devices. Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are backfed and used to terminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall be secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a pull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel. Love the vids ron, keep up the good work
When I was in the electrical field, what you had done in this video would had been a typical or standard electrical upgrade. Of which then, the metering and electrical equipment, service cables are updated to current code. Inside the structure, you worked with the existing wiring, as is. That is code in Wisconsin and Illinois. Up to, year 2015. Did this many of times for customers.
Hi Ron, the original voltage issue, is a classic open neutral with no pipe ground. Creates hi-low leg on service. 99% of time its open nuetral on service to pole.
Great work Ron. That PVC riser is a work of art. I wouldn’t worry about another strap by the gutter- it ain’t going anywhere, not with how well you glued it.
Ron, For some reason I feel that you are the best person in the entire universe to pose this puzzler to. I just had a heat pump installed yesterday. It's 240v. It works fine but every time I turn it on, my electric stove starts to click. I turn the heat pump off, it stops. Would you have any idea what in the world is going on?! Thanks. Jim
I saw you cut that neutral before the other hot when disconnecting the service lol but I know you had the meter pulled beforehand 👍 glad you’re back to making more content sir. Great video as usual 👍
@@electricianron_New_Jersey yes sir ! Years ago ,when I was first starting in the trade , I learned that the hard way lol. It’s not funny but I’ve never made that mistake again.
Like watching your videos. Being a 36 year electrician I like to see how others in different parts of the country install services. Most services here in SW Louisiana the ground and neutral are bonded at the transformers so in the panel we separate out neutrals and grounds. You do nice work. Keep on keeping on. Yep. Also new subscriber here.
I'm not sure whether this was technically ever permitted, but apparently some years back a cord and plug connection as a disconnect means for a water heater was a somewhat common practice. I found the water heater in my stepfather's 1973 ranch home was plugged into a nema 6-30 receptacle, a piece of 10-2 Cu-Clad NM from the plug to the water heater, receptacle fed by 8/2 SEU aluminum cable, breaker box in a bedroom closet on the other end of the house, when I was helping dad do some remodeling to fix the previous owner's screw ups involving the wiring, some of which was failed aluminum terminations on the general purpose receptacles. The kitchen was wired with 10-2 Cu-Clad, other circuits were solid aluminum, some were copper..
Hey Ron, Love your work thanks for sharing. I am sure I must not be seeing correctly, but it appears that your top #4 and boot seems to be connected to the 20 amp breaker above the MB. The bottom lug of the MB appears vacant. I am sure I am missing something….Paul
I love your videos, and you obviously know your stuff. As for the bend around the gutter, maybe you could have used an LB? I don't know what the actual clearance is in that area, I see it was tight. But then you could have kept the pipe tight to the siding and gotten another strap in a little easier. But of course then you'd have to worry about another point of water intrusion into the service equipment, and a little extra labor of pulling the conductors through, so I think you did the right thing just bending it like you did. I'm envious of how organized you are. I do my best to stay organized and efficient, but the company I work for isn't super organized.
Great video Ron. I like how you explain and show everything you are doing from start to finish. I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ron for a detailed service upgrade. I am surprised you didn’t use Penitox/Nolox on the line conductors in the meter pan, especially being so close to the ocean. Also, why didn’t you rubber/leather electrician’s gloves when handling the live conductors coming in from the street when up on the roof? Thanks, Bill
Great video. Great editing and narration. Even though I will likely hire an electrician to do this work for me I like to understand the what and why of it all. Thanks.
Greetings dear) thanks for your work and review on it, I'm watching you from another continent (Russia). You are a master of your craft and a great teacher. Can you please tell me what is the cost of 1 kW?
That was an impressive job because you did not have a lot of space and all the electrician's need to watch this video and see that don't complain just do it.
Hi Ron great job. A customer of mine needs a 200-amp service upgrade. The only available meter/disconnect combo was the one that had eight spaces for circuit breakers. I didn't want this I just simply wanted a combination meter/disconnect but they don't have that back ordered for a year "supposedly" My question is I need to install a 200-amp panel in their house can I tap off of this meter/disconnect 8 circuit panel combo to feed the indoor sub panel 200 amp? I'm just concerned about this 8-circuit space that I'm not even going to be using Outdoors Thanks
By the way love your work &love how you explain things and wouldn’t mind working with someone like yourself I’m eager to learn willing to learn and live in New JerseySo what kind of encouragement for someone that in the trade have been little taken advantage of and love to do the trade
Panel clearance side to side is a total of 30" wide (minimum) or the width of the panel if the panel is wider. I am in MA don't think it would pass clearance wise. I have one to do a my nephews cottage and the panel is in a closet and I have to put in a wider door.
Great Video Ron! always excited for the upload. i have seen people put Noalox on the irreversible screws that go into the meter hub, is that worth it to do?
Excellent video, I learned a lot from watching this. When running PVC outdoors like with this particular installation, do you ever have the need to use an expansion coupling? Curious if you came up with a solution for where you could strap the conduit where youi cut the pipe and added a coupling by the eave. As an apprentice I find your vidoes to be very helpful as I get to see how you do your work. Its like looking over my journeymans shoulder but you show me another way things can be done. Thank you so much!
Love your videos. Excellent work, as always. Technical question: I notice that non-metallic liquid tight fittings don’t come with bushings. Are bushings required when connecting non-metallic liquid tight conduit to boxes (towards protecting the conductors from being damaged)?
So were you screwed over after you attached the 2" hub to the meter can? Or those bolts were reversible and you could get it off and not have to throw away a meter can. That'd be bad. You could bolt a small piece of PT lumber or Azek to build out a spacer to strap the riser near the fascia? Honestly looks fine as is, in my opinion, unless another strap is required. Wow that was a VERY snug space to work on panel replacement. Bet your arms were pretty strained after working sideways like that. The codes here in MN are pretty much the same, rehab and repair are pretty much grandfathered to whatever code was at the time of the building. Obviously you can do any commonsense upgrades you want but you don't have to. Nice correction to the water heater, good call using carflex and fittings. Never even seen that used inside. I also never even knew a disconnect was needed for a water heater out of proximity to the panel. Makes perfect sense. My furnace has a light switch, but I imagine that's probably optional since the breaker is like 15 feet away. Learning volumes of info from your channel as always.
Something to think about with EV charging and the possibility of multiple vehicles you may need to charge at home . Most families have at least 2 cars . Then kids may have a car . You could say 4 cars charging maybe to much for a 200 amp service . It's interesting you can double the size of the service but the power companies wire size remains the same . I wonder if their will be a point if EVs do take over if their will be enough electricians to support this changeover with change outs and charger installations ?
As the feed lines are in the open air, they remain cooler than the conductors in conduit in the house, hence they can use smaller wire than I expected as well, for the larger service
@@norsk54472 Yes I understand that but I believe it is undersized by code standards . My belief the expense is so high to have to replace aerial secondary wires for every upgrade that it's not done . They would rather wait to failure to replace . Of course that can be a hazard . Looking up at many secondary lines . Especially the single conductor ones I'd a bit scary . I have seen single aerial solid number 10 conducters feeding residences today . Places like we saw in Puerto Rico with overhead lines that looked like spaghetti and came crashing down in hurricanes . Just find it off there seems to be different standards for the power infrastructure.
Some power companies offer special rates for EVs to be charged at certain times. This setup needs another meter and utility co will change the feed to bigger conductors. So no need to touch existing service. The vehicle charge(s)r is hooked up to 2nd service and billed for the special rate.
@@ptso7580 I actually gave a bid awhile ago to put in separate meter for charging in socal and yes separate service feeders were required . It doesn't seem to be a standard
When you were installing those two GFCI breakers, I noticed that you only connected the hot wires to those breakers. Shouldn't the neutral wires be connected to those breakers as well or can those breakers still function properly without them?
Good catch! Yes, originally I did not wire the GFCI breakers correctly and when I went to check everything before leaving I turned on kitchen lights and the breaker tripped immediately. I was pissed because I couldn’t leave it like that so I opened up the panel and wired the circuit neutral to the breaker.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thanks for your prompt replies. Yeah, that must be frustrating have a light switch trip a breaker like that. At least you were able to fix the issue by connecting those neutral wires to the breakers. Hopefully, you left enough slack in those wires.
When you have CSST installed in your home. The natural gas pipe is already bonded to the system ground by the equipment grounding conductor that supply's electrical power to either your furnace or boiler.
It’s UF cable. This house is built a trailer. After Hurricane Sandy it looks like it was all rewired except for the service. So a lot of the wiring is outdoors beneath the structure.
Depends where you live, but that setup is grandfathered in. If you moved the load center more than 3 feet from original location then you have to follow current codes.
The water pipes never really made up for any electrode but they do help. The main reason why they have to be bonded is because if something shorts out against the pipe, it won't trip the breaker. For example, someone is running a dehumidifier in the basement or they have a freezer plugged into an extension cord, they run it over a copper or steel water pipe and eventually the cord wears and rubs through and the hot conductor shorts to the pipe. Someone comes along and grabs the pipe and they touch the washer or dryer. ZAP!
The water piping system is bonded to the system grounded neutral to limit voltage potential. If it’s not bonded there’s no way to clear a fault and then you could die if you become that path for the electrons to flow back to the source.
If I remember Sch 80 is only needed as a riser from the earth into a building where there could be reasonable physical damage. I think it's also used for PVC encasement in concrete.
An inspector taught me a trick for top hub assemblies. What I do now is I use the threaded hub, of course, then my male adapter, but instead of inserting the riser mast directly into the adapter I put about a 4" stub in there. Then I slide the bell end of my pipe over the stub and butt it up to the adapter. This way there is no lip for water to collect on; and if for some reason it separates there water would have to travel up the inside of the bell and over the stub to get into the can.
Every video you get better and better; you're becoming a household name around here. Love that you learn from the feedback. Charge on! ⚡
That bell bottom trick is a great idea!! I will definitely try that on the next one. Thanks for that tip!
My mind is blown that I never thought to do that. Are you in New Jersey?
nice. As a DIYer home owner, it is videos like this that I learn and improve my work. I have refactored my house electrical a couple of times over the past 25 years. The 125amp service I installed 25 years ago, including mast, meter base with disconnect outside and siemens panel, improved the VERY OLD 4 circuit FUSE panel - geeez - along with their tubes and knobs wiring. Bare wire mostly as the insulation was LONG GONE. It was nice to install the romex. The inspector was very helpful and pointed out my errors. Once fixed, it returned and all was well. I read the code and research what I NEED to do. Now I have been adding solar along with batteries. Out in Utah. Thanks for the videos for actual experiences you have
That’s the American spirit my friend! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I love that you didn't edit out hitting yourself in the head with the enclosure cover! That's me all day long.... Plus seeing you not pretwist the conductors before putting on the wire nuts helps my arguments at work, haha
Pardon my ignorance here guys but, I thought you are not allowed to work on these things unless you are a license electrician. Maybe you are a license electrician ?
I looked into this but in NJ (Ron you can correct me if I am wrong) you need a permit to electrical work. A part of the permit application HAS to be filled by a licensed electrician, with his or her license number.
How would a DIY home owner would this work?
@@dennispatel6639 I am not licensed electrician, but here a homeowner can do the work. Other electric work inside the home as well. Just need the permit. I Live in Utah, different rules. I could not pull or install the meter but home owner can get a permit to do the work of service panel installation, after the city power company severs the grid connection. After disconnected, I installed the list of items I mentioned, then inspector came, ok'd it, he called the city utility who came back and reconnected the grid lines. Small rural city (20,000+). It is called the wild, wild west
@@norsk54472 Hey Thank you for breaking that down. I looked though the permit application once or twice and the instruction calls for a part of the application be filled out by a licensed electrician or an electrical contractor along with their ID number if i am not mistaking. So i am thinking, even to pull a permit you would need a licensed electrician. I have never tried pulling a permit or went though the process so idk this for sure.
I really enjoy watching Rons videos, very informational. I might not be able to legally do the work but, i like to know how things are done.
Hi Ron love the videos, can believe how much I have learned from your videos. I was reading your intro and think you were a victim of auto correct, you have tricentennial for the period when you must have 34 hours of continuing education, I think the word should have been triennial.
Great idea prepping ahead of time to catch errors in parts, I think everyone has been tripped up by supplier giving out the wrong part(s) at some point.
As far as i know, for the 100 amp breaker that was installed for the main service disconnect, a screw must be put though the breaker (notice the whole in the breaker for it) as another means of securing the main breaker.
NEC 408.36(D): Back-Fed Devices. Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are backfed and used to terminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall be secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a pull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel.
Love the vids ron, keep up the good work
The MB came installed with the panel and is advertised as such too.
When I was in the electrical field, what you had done in this video would had been a typical or standard electrical upgrade. Of which then, the metering and electrical equipment, service cables are updated to current code. Inside the structure, you worked with the existing wiring, as is. That is code in Wisconsin and Illinois. Up to, year 2015. Did this many of times for customers.
Hi Ron, the original voltage issue, is a classic open neutral with no pipe ground. Creates hi-low leg on service. 99% of time its open nuetral on service to pole.
That was already check by JCPL so this must be that 1%.
Working space I don't need working space! Nice job
Another excellent job, great workmanship. Also Ron I think you're going to need a hardhat lol ...
I wasn't expecting that to happen!
Very nice work Ron. Wish you also serviced Atlantic County .
Ron the man, Happy Father's day, must be nice working regularly down at the shore!
Great save (in slo mo) when you removed the last screw from the old panel.
Great work Ron. That PVC riser is a work of art. I wouldn’t worry about another strap by the gutter- it ain’t going anywhere, not with how well you glued it.
Ron,
For some reason I feel that you are the best person in the entire universe to pose this puzzler to. I just had a heat pump installed yesterday. It's 240v. It works fine but every time I turn it on, my electric stove starts to click. I turn the heat pump off, it stops.
Would you have any idea what in the world is going on?!
Thanks.
Jim
I am amazed you fit into that space, even more that house. Your war wagon looks bugger the house. As always clean work, and thanks for the vids.😊
I saw you cut that neutral before the other hot when disconnecting the service lol but I know you had the meter pulled beforehand 👍 glad you’re back to making more content sir. Great video as usual 👍
Always remove the meter first because the meter is a load itself and could shock you from the leg that’s cut through the meter!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey yes sir ! Years ago ,when I was first starting in the trade , I learned that the hard way lol. It’s not funny but I’ve never made that mistake again.
Like watching your videos. Being a 36 year electrician I like to see how others in different parts of the country install services. Most services here in SW Louisiana the ground and neutral are bonded at the transformers so in the panel we separate out neutrals and grounds. You do nice work. Keep on keeping on. Yep. Also new subscriber here.
Thank you. Glad you enjoy the videos.
I'm not sure whether this was technically ever permitted, but apparently some years back a cord and plug connection as a disconnect means for a water heater was a somewhat common practice. I found the water heater in my stepfather's 1973 ranch home was plugged into a nema 6-30 receptacle, a piece of 10-2 Cu-Clad NM from the plug to the water heater, receptacle fed by 8/2 SEU aluminum cable, breaker box in a bedroom closet on the other end of the house, when I was helping dad do some remodeling to fix the previous owner's screw ups involving the wiring, some of which was failed aluminum terminations on the general purpose receptacles. The kitchen was wired with 10-2 Cu-Clad, other circuits were solid aluminum, some were copper..
Cord and plug is still acceptable but uncommon in NJ.
You mention using strut but worry about rusting, they do make Fiberglass strut that would probably look good
Now there’s something I did not know. Thanks!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey they also make aluminum and stainless strut. Also they make stainless and aluminum strut straps.
@@mcarroll598 Stainless strut, now that would probably cost a fortune
On that strapping issue … just do what you said but use stainless strut and straps 👍 or make a stand-off with SS all thread and a SS minerallac strap.
I wish that door on the panel swong open toward the other side. Great video!
Great job. Thanks for sharing.
That was a great video. Thank you for sharing your work with us
Good job Ron.
Hey Ron, Love your work thanks for sharing. I am sure I must not be seeing correctly, but it appears that your top #4 and boot seems to be connected to the 20 amp breaker above the MB. The bottom lug of the MB appears vacant. I am sure I am missing something….Paul
Sweet job as always Ron. Don’t worry about the length of your videos. 👍👍
Happy Father’s Day!
Ron, Thanks for the video. Once again great content. Best regards from Chicago.
Thanks very much. Usually the guys from the Chicago area crucify me for not using EMT conduit everywhere.
I love your videos, and you obviously know your stuff. As for the bend around the gutter, maybe you could have used an LB? I don't know what the actual clearance is in that area, I see it was tight. But then you could have kept the pipe tight to the siding and gotten another strap in a little easier. But of course then you'd have to worry about another point of water intrusion into the service equipment, and a little extra labor of pulling the conductors through, so I think you did the right thing just bending it like you did. I'm envious of how organized you are. I do my best to stay organized and efficient, but the company I work for isn't super organized.
Great video Ron. I like how you explain and show everything you are doing from start to finish. I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ron for a detailed service upgrade. I am surprised you didn’t use Penitox/Nolox on the line conductors in the meter pan, especially being so close to the ocean. Also, why didn’t you rubber/leather electrician’s gloves when handling the live conductors coming in from the street when up on the roof? Thanks, Bill
Because I’m very careful not to ground myself while working hot.
Great video. Great editing and narration. Even though I will likely hire an electrician to do this work for me I like to understand the what and why of it all. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Ron great job. Question though, does the nec require a disconnect switch outside the house for a new service?
Hey Ron! Nice work as always! Detailed, organized and meticulous . God Bless🇺🇸🇺🇸
Greetings dear) thanks for your work and review on it, I'm watching you from another continent (Russia). You are a master of your craft and a great teacher. Can you please tell me what is the cost of 1 kW?
Love the videos man
Are you allowed to do stand off straps like they do for gas work? All depending on your inspectors ?
That was an impressive job because you did not have a lot of space and all the electrician's need to watch this video and see that don't complain just do it.
Cool video Ron keep them coming back lol 😂❤🎉😢
Nice work. Good teacher.
I appreciate you saying that. Thank you!
Hi Ron great job. A customer of mine needs a 200-amp service upgrade. The only available meter/disconnect combo was the one that had eight spaces for circuit breakers. I didn't want this I just simply wanted a combination meter/disconnect but they don't have that back ordered for a year "supposedly" My question is I need to install a 200-amp panel in their house can I tap off of this meter/disconnect 8 circuit panel combo to feed the indoor sub panel 200 amp?
I'm just concerned about this 8-circuit space that I'm not even going to be using Outdoors
Thanks
Do you need to get locates in order to drive ground rods?
By the way love your work &love how you explain things and wouldn’t mind working with someone like yourself I’m eager to learn willing to learn and live in New JerseySo what kind of encouragement for someone that in the trade have been little taken advantage of and love to do the trade
Did you glue the box offset
Panel clearance side to side is a total of 30" wide (minimum) or the width of the panel if the panel is wider. I am in MA don't think it would pass clearance wise. I have one to do a my nephews cottage and the panel is in a closet and I have to put in a wider door.
In NJ we have the rehab code which allows “like for like” installations.
what's the name of the service connector you used to tie in the street power to the house power on the roof?
Excellent video and work on the upgrade Ron!
Ron, what happens when you upgrade a service panel and the wiring to the outlets and lights is the cloth covered wire?
Ron thank you for making a video for us. Great work as always, keep it up !
Great Video Ron! always excited for the upload. i have seen people put Noalox on the irreversible screws that go into the meter hub, is that worth it to do?
Excellent video, I learned a lot from watching this. When running PVC outdoors like with this particular installation, do you ever have the need to use an expansion coupling? Curious if you came up with a solution for where you could strap the conduit where youi cut the pipe and added a coupling by the eave. As an apprentice I find your vidoes to be very helpful as I get to see how you do your work. Its like looking over my journeymans shoulder but you show me another way things can be done. Thank you so much!
Glad I could help Ryan!
Great Video, Ron! Funny question: do you ever have concerns about people stealing your stuff or even getting mugged while your working outside?
I’m fortunate to be able to chose who and where I work. So no, I don’t give it much thought.
Love your videos. Excellent work, as always.
Technical question: I notice that non-metallic liquid tight fittings don’t come with bushings. Are bushings required when connecting non-metallic liquid tight conduit to boxes (towards protecting the conductors from being damaged)?
#4 copper conductors and larger are required to have plastic bushings.
Got it. Thank you. Happy Father’s Day.
So were you screwed over after you attached the 2" hub to the meter can? Or those bolts were reversible and you could get it off and not have to throw away a meter can. That'd be bad.
You could bolt a small piece of PT lumber or Azek to build out a spacer to strap the riser near the fascia? Honestly looks fine as is, in my opinion, unless another strap is required.
Wow that was a VERY snug space to work on panel replacement. Bet your arms were pretty strained after working sideways like that.
The codes here in MN are pretty much the same, rehab and repair are pretty much grandfathered to whatever code was at the time of the building. Obviously you can do any commonsense upgrades you want but you don't have to.
Nice correction to the water heater, good call using carflex and fittings. Never even seen that used inside. I also never even knew a disconnect was needed for a water heater out of proximity to the panel. Makes perfect sense. My furnace has a light switch, but I imagine that's probably optional since the breaker is like 15 feet away.
Learning volumes of info from your channel as always.
Nice job! Great informative content! Keep em coming!
Thanks! Will do!
In MD 150amp is min
Something to think about with EV charging and the possibility of multiple vehicles you may need to charge at home . Most families have at least 2 cars . Then kids may have a car . You could say 4 cars charging maybe to much for a 200 amp service . It's interesting you can double the size of the service but the power companies wire size remains the same . I wonder if their will be a point if EVs do take over if their will be enough electricians to support this changeover with change outs and charger installations ?
As the feed lines are in the open air, they remain cooler than the conductors in conduit in the house, hence they can use smaller wire than I expected as well, for the larger service
@@norsk54472 Yes I understand that but I believe it is undersized by code standards . My belief the expense is so high to have to replace aerial secondary wires for every upgrade that it's not done . They would rather wait to failure to replace . Of course that can be a hazard . Looking up at many secondary lines . Especially the single conductor ones I'd a bit scary . I have seen single aerial solid number 10 conducters feeding residences today . Places like we saw in Puerto Rico with overhead lines that looked like spaghetti and came crashing down in hurricanes . Just find it off there seems to be different standards for the power infrastructure.
@@stevencole7331 aaah, thank you for the insight on other reasons
Some power companies offer special rates for EVs to be charged at certain times. This setup needs another meter and utility co will change the feed to bigger conductors. So no need to touch existing service. The vehicle charge(s)r is hooked up to 2nd service and billed for the special rate.
@@ptso7580 I actually gave a bid awhile ago to put in separate meter for charging in socal and yes separate service feeders were required . It doesn't seem to be a standard
I know the service drop location is up to the POCO but on that flat roof that wouldn't pass in most locations. Nothing much you can do about it.
Why do you say that? This passed inspection over a year ago.
Question is there any reason why sealant shouldn’t be used on the nipple that feeds into the house? Doesn’t water find its way inside if you Dont?
There a 5-10º pitch on the nipple so that won't happen.
When you were installing those two GFCI breakers, I noticed that you only connected the hot wires to those breakers. Shouldn't the neutral wires be connected to those breakers as well or can those breakers still function properly without them?
Good catch! Yes, originally I did not wire the GFCI breakers correctly and when I went to check everything before leaving I turned on kitchen lights and the breaker tripped immediately. I was pissed because I couldn’t leave it like that so I opened up the panel and wired the circuit neutral to the breaker.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thanks for your prompt replies. Yeah, that must be frustrating have a light switch trip a breaker like that. At least you were able to fix the issue by connecting those neutral wires to the breakers. Hopefully, you left enough slack in those wires.
Nice Vid
When do you have to bond the gas pipe?
When you have CSST installed in your home. The natural gas pipe is already bonded to the system ground by the equipment grounding conductor that supply's electrical power to either your furnace or boiler.
Did they use triplex to the meter box, and do you use T-90 wire anywhere. I see you use THHN a lot and can that be more expensive than T-90?
He's probably using T90, I think that's just THHN/THWN rated for 90C. I think it's pretty much all you can buy these days.
Is 4 awg copper good for 100amps they told me I would have to get the 3 awg
#4 AWG is good for 100 amp services.
You didn’t label the breaker
None of the usual penetrox on the service conductors at the meter can? I figured you absolutely would have, given the proximity to the ocean here.
I think he ran copper conductors so it's not necessary
Ron, is that black sheethed NM cable? Not sure if I’ve ever seen that before.
It’s UF cable. This house is built a trailer. After Hurricane Sandy it looks like it was all rewired except for the service. So a lot of the wiring is outdoors beneath the structure.
Homeowner may need to move the water heater a little, away from panel for proper clearance.
Rehab sub code.
Depends where you live, but that setup is grandfathered in. If you moved the load center more than 3 feet from original location then you have to follow current codes.
I am seeing code violations throughout this video
Oh yeah? Name them with a code reference.
I would upgrade everything to 200 amps for future use.
Okay.
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The water pipes never really made up for any electrode but they do help. The main reason why they have to be bonded is because if something shorts out against the pipe, it won't trip the breaker. For example, someone is running a dehumidifier in the basement or they have a freezer plugged into an extension cord, they run it over a copper or steel water pipe and eventually the cord wears and rubs through and the hot conductor shorts to the pipe. Someone comes along and grabs the pipe and they touch the washer or dryer. ZAP!
The water piping system is bonded to the system grounded neutral to limit voltage potential. If it’s not bonded there’s no way to clear a fault and then you could die if you become that path for the electrons to flow back to the source.
❤️ "Promo SM"
Hey Ron the service raiser needs to be sch80?
Only if it’s subject to physical damage.
If I remember Sch 80 is only needed as a riser from the earth into a building where there could be reasonable physical damage. I think it's also used for PVC encasement in concrete.