I like the way you talk to the camera you (actually talk) it feels like we're having a real conversation. You're sharing your wisdom with us. Great teacher
OMG, I'm a DYI weekend warrior. Have just ripped my bathroom apart to build in a walk in shower, new floors, sink, toilet, everything. I've been watching your videos for 3 days, cant get enough, and can't wait to really get started.
Sir, where did you come from, you majestic UA-cam unicorn? I've been digging through DIY youtube for months, just, like, piles of trendy videos about how to build a mid century inspired marble effect vinyl kitchen open shelving with hairpin legs, and here you are, very accurately describing to me the best way to keep my bathroom from turning into a rotten pile of mush. You have personally and directly saved me from the worst of my home renovation impulses. Thank you, so very very much.
Jeff the way you're doing and talking at the same time and thing. You are very professional. You must be a teacher because the way you handle your job seem so easy
Redguard Pro Tip: You're note supposed to lay on RedGuard thick. its supposed to be laid on thin initially. You need to prime it. Thick right off the bat will crack as it cures from red to pink. especially at any seam or changes of plane. Also, changes of plane should be reinforced with either a mesh or fiberglass felt for full shower (wall to floor). Cracks = Water penetration = failure of the waterproofing. Jeff is doing wall to wall seams only.
My son and I are doing our second DIY dry bed shower using durock board on the wall . We watched all the videos and the best info on this video is using Red Guard. Tape you joint real good and RED GUARD till it bleeds . Jeff does a great job explaining all the system you can use.
You are a Godsend. I had to tear out a shower surround and the wallboard beneath it due to mold in a 110-year-old house. I do not have the resources to hire someone. I even took some bids from local workers and I knew their plan was to rip me off because they just weren't charging me enough. I know what the materials cost. I did my own research and decided to do it myself with the help of my son and use RedGard. At the end of this video, I lit up when I saw you using it. And you recommended using it in just the manner I was planning on using it. Thank you for your great videos and advice. We hang the drywall tomorrow.
I don't know how anyone could give these videos a thumbs down. Such a treasure trove of info. I'm about to use the Redgard since that's what the tile installer recommended. I'm way more confident on how to do it now. But now i'm way less confident that it will last the lifetime of the tub! Thank you again! I am tackling things around the house I never thought I could!
I very much appreciate how much detail you go into in these videos. I'm about to start a bathroom remodel and I chose the KERI-BOARD over their liner because it seemed to be a better fit for my abilities and I'd rather spend a little more on something that's going to get me tiling in fewer steps.
I have actually avoided costly mistakes because of your videos. Thank you. I am a lot more proficient in a lot of home construction areas. Keep up the awesome vids.
Big Diy guy here in the middle of my first master shower remodel. Your compilation video is amazing! First one I've seen that really explained the different ways and how they work. Definitely a member now and thank you so much for your hard work! Off to see how you do your shower base. Mainly scary part for me.
I love to to see the "old tried and true" methods and you are an excellent guide and teacher, thank you for your dedication to the crafts you are a pure joy to watch!
I really liked the third system in this video, do you have a complete start to finish video on that install? The custom shower pan seems like what I would have to do. Great Video and thanks again.
thank you sir for showing people all the possible ways and the types of waterproofing one can execute using various products the right way without mickey mousing it through.The work speaks for itself the way you do it guy. Thanks again.
Jeff, at 37 min into this video you installed the shower valve seal backwards. I did the same thing by mistake. The theory is the slope on the rubber seal is supposed to channel the water to the shower side, not to the inside of the wall. Very insidious detail, and unlikely to be an issue.
whenever I watch your show you give us much more information than other shows, and tell us more practical and lower costs, I like it, and learn more, thank you.
I have watched many of your videos and I really don't think there is someone out there who takes the time to not only talk about a specific aspect of building/ renovation but to talk and teach your viewers multiple ways in which to go about it ! Im a carpenter from Scotland and I could watch your videos all day ! I really don't think there would be a difference from learning in person or to watch you on the screen, you are very thorough and I never have to go back and "watch that bit again" its very easy viewing and Im sure everyone would agree we can tell the methods you use have been tried and tested which gives us confidence In applying them. Thanks again and keep up the good work ! I look forward to your next video. P.S you can tell your son is the brains behind the operation haha
Really like these compilation videos! Would be great if you had more details in the video description outlining the materials used and when in the video the material is shown. That way it makes it easier to skip to the specific products/materials we're interested in
Thank you, Jeff, for making this look simple enough for me to try myself. Previous homeowners used drywall and luan! Now I have mold behind the shower. With this and your video on replacing plumbing with PEX, I'm ready to do it right! I appreciate your videos. I always lean so much.
Great Vid! Thanks for all the info! I would love to see a video of do's and dont's for durock/cement board backing on shower installations. A more detailed video going into things to know when installing the board at the shower pan. What to know and how to install the board on over shower pan pvc liner. I've seen many different techniques with basic explanation, but not found one that is detailed from absolute start to finish. Could you give some advice in this regards please?
Thanks very much. I’m getting ready to do our daughter’s’ bathroom. And this video helped tremendously. I feel comfortable now not using cement board or messing w/a complicated membrane system.
Awesome videos Jeff! I've been a contractor for years and you have a really nice way of explaining things, very practical and flexible. There's always a different way to do something that is right and doesn't break the bank.
Good demo and instruction. Consider throwing a rubber backed little bathroom rug into the tub or shower while working in there. It protects from scratches and dings.
You have some helpful videos on certain things. Showing products that work with the Kerdi system when the Schluter products you need aren't available. If you are using these products while being a contractor is a no-no. Using these products can void the Schluter warranty if you end up having a problem. I take pictures of all processes while installing this system to protect myself. I am Schluter certified. I do a lot of high end custom showers. I occasionally take my Schluter book out or watch my DVD as a refresher course. Honestly I think you should do the same. I know you are trying to help people and that's great but I do see some things you could brush up on. I'm not trying to offend you I'm just trying to help a fellow tile brother out. Keep up the good work. I enjoy the videos.
You are bang on about using modified mortar...I just learned the hard way....luckily the cement board wasn't properly primed so it was easy to peel off the red guard that was applied...LOL...or maybe not...
Mud job tiled surrounds commonly last 50 years or more without mold or rot issues, and are often torn out only because the tile is out of style. They last because there is no paper in the surround, and any moisture that does weep in can dry out without issue. Durrock is the modern equivalent to that time proven system; same approach, but less labor intensive. It's also inexpensive. Other than Durock being heavy, I see few advantages for the DIYer in paying the high material costs for Schluter's system, especially the variant that uses paper faced drywall in the surround. No matter how loudly they claim it's waterproof, no installation is perfect. The important thing is how the system handles small amounts of moisture that eventually will penetrate, and for that, a cement based substrate is better. If you actually read their warranty, you'll see it covers only the failed portion of the assembly, and there are other limitations...don't expect your shower to be rebuilt for free. For the pro, Schluter's system may reduce labor costs enough to offset it's high material cost; I don't know about that. Whatever the case, it's silly to pick any system that has paper in the shower when other equal or lower cost alternatives are readily available. My 2 cents.
Hi Bob, I agree in principle that no install is perfect. That is why I love Schluter. It is engineered so beyond perfect that anyone trying to do a good job cannot possibly screw it up unless they do it on purpose. In the world of DIY I trust homeowners to do a great job with good information. I don't trust contractors to have as much integrity!
I am a total amateur DIYer. I have done two showers and will do two more in my new house. All the DIYers that I know are doing it to save money. They don't have money to burn. They also want to go to home depot or lowes and get the material. Cement backer board, backer board screws and finished off with red guard are all in stock and the big construction stores.
Bob, I must take issue with one of your claims. "The important thing is how the system handles small amounts of moisture that eventually will penetrate, and for that, a cement based substrate is better." Just to understand your claim Are you referring to a Water in/ water out pan with a durock wall substructure as being superior to a topically applied sheet membrane utilizing a bonded flange drain assembly? NOTE: you didn't mention a vapor barrier behind the CBU? (TCNA B-415, ANSI A108 02 3-8) which is necessary if you are not using a topical waterproofing membrane (ANSI A118-10). While both systems are approved there are many disadvantages to the traditional method in a modern home. The two most relevant are The traditional method does not handle changes in plane (Niches, Benches, curbless, and many curbs. This is a primary cause of residential shower installation Failures in the US. The surface membranes solve this inadequacy of the traditional mudbed/CBU. The second issue. Modern homes are very air tight to meet energy effency standards. When a shower leaks into a cavity where it used to evaporate today a small leak will wet rot and mold, this becomes a health hazard. Because CBU / vapor barrier behind (let alone CBU only, which you seem to suggest) installs are much more likely to leak when the above details are included than with a topical waterproofing system even if the competency of installation is marginal (Schluter in this case) It would be wise to to use a topical membrane.
I disagree. The problem is not that water will eventually dry if it gets into the mud, it's that if the shower is use daily (if it's the only shower in the house that's pretty much a guarantee), there's not enough time for the moisture to dry out so it just collects and collects and mold eventually grows behind the mud and you get all sorts of issues. Waterproofing is really the best way to go. Prevent water penetration from the beginning.
Bob the problem with cement boards is that they do not have the same thickness or more importantly the density of the old mud set systems of days gone by. My experiences inform me that you are correct about the old mud set system. I've never Once found rot or mold behind those old assemblies. I have found lots of rot behind cement boards installations where it was the only thing installed on the wood substrate. Cement boards are not water proof. No exceptions. They are water resistant only. Meaning they are not affected by water but they do not stop the migration of water into the substrate. I installed that system for many years but I recognized the limitations of it so I developed work arounds. I always installed self adhesive and self sealing flashing on the face of studs so that water could not be absorbed into the studs. This was before I researched and then attended both of schluters 2 day seminars/ workshops. What they explain in great scientific detail is that their membrane is completely water and vapor Proof! When installed properly, water in any form cannot find a way through their system. That's why it's fine to use paper faced drywall. I was skeptical of the system the first time I encountered it but after having the science explained to me I use it with total confidence. Not because of the warranty (I quote the late great Chris Farley "I'll take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I've got spare time, but what are you gonna have? A estranged piece of shit") I trust it because it makes scientific sense, that it will perform better over the long haul than my augmented cement boards assembles ever could. While I remain confident that those showers don't leak water (I've yet to get a call back in 15 years) but those could never be moisture vapor proof so they are susceptible to mold. Since the schluter is so much lighter, easier and tremendously better at its intended purpose it's foolish not to use it.
Great video. Im getting ready to redo my home shower because the previous owner didn't water proof the walls and the tile is starting to fall. Those were some great ideas. Just gained another subscriber.
I just replaced a shower with a jetted tub in our master bathroom, used James Hardie hydrodefence "waterproof" cementboard backing, then used Kerdieband on all the seams. I'm not a contractor, but I've done about 4 showers this way and it seems to work. I've been tempted to try the redguard method, but so far the idea of putting it directly over drywall has made me too nervous. Lol.
You sir are one if not "The" best DIY construction video host I have seen yet on here. You are very clear, knowledgeable, and very thorough with your videos as well as adding little tips and things to watch out for to the point that you provide a lot of information in a short time and makes for a much more enjoyable video to watch. Thank you very much for your videos and for sharing informative views and ideas.
You should always use a damp sponge over your drywall before applying thinset for the kerdi system. Same goes with any tile installation, you dont want your walls to get its first drink of water from your mortar. This is extremely important when installing tile over Hardie board. A dry wall or floor will draw too much moisture out of the mortar, reducing its bond strength. In the case of very dry underlayments like Hardie board so much moisture can be drawn out of the mortar that it can cause it to break bond with the tile itself.
Compilation videos are great! Thanks for taking the time to pack em together. After watching this, I'm confident I can do the job myself and the right way.
Awesome demos for sealing systems! Have removed a tub and building a shower enclosure which is being built on existing concrete floor, single story residence in Arizona. Just grateful for the best advice to properly seal the entire system correctly. Thank for all the video instructions! Absolutely needed and hoping I don't screw it up!
Well done....very informative , well rounded, and nice to see different methods/options. One comment, while I think the Schluter system and products are awesome and as you pointed out a costly option. I'm not sure mentioning the warranty of that system is warranted given that there is no warranty from the instant you introduce your Lepage seal and bond product in place of the shluter caulking that is not readily available. My only concern is that the better part of your audience is DIYers that will follow you procedure to the letter and in the event somewhere along the way they slip up and it results in a failure of some sort, they might think, no problem , i paid the top dollar for the high end product and Jeff said it had a 10 yr warranty, which will be voided. As you clearly stated, it is warrantied providing it is installed per spec. IMO, even if you can't get the shluter caulking/sealant at the major big box stores, if you're going to spend that kind of money, it would be advisable to order it online ....find it and buy it from whereever you must......otherwise, you're probably far better off with the more cost effective red guard option.....just my 2 cents
Great hints one thing that drives be crazy after fourty years in the trade is setters who don't protect the tubs a peace of scrap carpeting makes a perfect cushion for both walking on and dropping tools if you have to replace a tub there's your day wrecked. Home Depot used to carry the notched trowel for kerdi may wanna check.
I use painters tape along the top edge of the tub. I use 2" tape and tape over the lip into the vertical section of tub. It can stay there until you have installed the grout. Then you just peel it up and throw it out. Maybe $1 in blue tape and the tub edge is protected. I use cardboard for the base of the tub and an old drop cloth or my old grout cleanup towels to give me some padding in case I drop a tile or tool or anything. I chipped the porcelain on a tub once and I almost cried. Not again.
As soon as the tub is installed I box it in with plywood, leaving enough gap around the edges for backerboard and tile. I can walk on it, dance on it, drop tools on it, park my truck on it... After seeing another contractor have to replace a $1500 porcelain tub, I don't mess around when it comes to protecting them. Blue tape the gap to keep out dust and granules, cut the tape back as needed when tiling, grouting and caulking.
@@tedspens Similar to my thought except to just make it a flat platform. I couple padded 2by's at the edges keeps it in place. Would seem especially beneficial if doing multiple tubs. They're all the same size to you move a partial sheet of plywood that's a few inches thick from job to job with a little tape to seal the edge each time. $0.02
I bought a house not too long ago. The aqua defense over drywall is what my boy friend and i went with. As far as ease of use it wasnt too bad and really didnt take much time
I fastened durock cement board to the studs, one fastener every 6 inches, taped the joints with alkali resistant mesh tape and thinset, filled the screw holes with thinset, used waterproof fabric on the corners and at the tile flange with mapei’s version of Red Guard, put 2 coats of the same stuff on the durock, let it dry and it was very waterproof. I tiled after that, mixed the grout with liquid sealer and grouted. Shower is solid.
your statements are true about tile installation. mortar base adhesive for stone tile is the best way to go. Personally I have repaired 100 year old shower surrounds an they were made to last. Also Installed from scratch , the want it now install and custom. you speak Truth.
Hello, First off I want to compliment you for having by far the best DIY channel on the web. You Deserve a TV Show. Which type of water proofing do you suggest for a steam shower?
Love all your videos Jeff. Thanks. I am curious about the roll-on waterproof membrane. Now that you've created a new surface of membrane over the drywall, that's what the thinset for the tile is going to stick to. Does that have enough integrity so that the weight of the tile wont just pull the membrane off the drywall? Thanks
I've watched soo many of your videos and it has helped me tremendously! Thank you for sharing your skills in a easy, straight forward way. I will be using the kerdie board system this weekend. Thanks a bunch!
Schluter Kirdi and Ditra both allow the use of polymer-modified thin set mortars to bond the product to the sub-straight; both products also allow the use of speed-setting polymer-modified thin set mortars in setting tile over them. Other than that I liked the info; I’ve used Red Guard too and had good results. Both beat rubber.
Well done, Jeff! I liked your comment about being able to create a shower niche at the right height after some of the tile has been placed. Maybe you can demonstrate that further in a later video. Cheers!
I must gutted the shower. Re did the drywall, sealed it with the Lepage 2 in 1 seal and painted over with mapai aquadefence. Will tile tomorrow. Also with do the floor. Following the vidéo. 😀
Jeff, I've been watching all your shower video's. Thanks, I've ran my installed the valves, shower pan and ran the pex as you demonstrated. I intend to use the Schluter Kerdi board/system for my shower walls. What I've missed is what's needed for the ceiling? I will have a rain shower head from the center of the shower, plus the usual shower head. I know I can use the Kerdi board for the ceiling but at $100 for a 4x8 sheet, maybe I"m wasting my money where I don't need that level of waterproofing protection. Should I use mold resistant drywall, etc. Please advise. Thanks!
Love your videos Jeff. We need your help though.... I've seen video after video where you are cutting out the old drywall and then installing cement board, or kerdi, or Mold Resistant Drywall and then you leave a gap where the old drywall meets the new product. See 49:14 in the above video. How do you finish that transition between the old and the new? And who do you do it so it doesn't look like a transition?
Thank you for your very informative videos. We are in the process of tearing out an old tub and the surround, and are planning to install a walk-in shower instead. We are just homeowners with quite a bit of experience in renovating our homes. This will be our first conversion, and we wanted to be sure that we are successful in waterproofing our new shower. You make it easy to understand the potential pitfalls, and the importance of "following directions." Thanks again!
Did I miss cement board? I see that more in your newer videos. How does cement board compare to mold resistant drywall? Based on what I have seen on your channel I think I would choose cement board.
I agree and cement board is still a common and economical product. Not sure why Jeff didn't address this. The only problem I'm aware of with cement boards, like Durock, is that they are heavy to work with and take a little more effort to cut.
Can I do the version with Schulter Kerri-boards boards right to the floor. I have a claw tub and want to put tile on floor and wall. Also, I am feeling more and more confident the more of your videos I watch. Thank you sooo much! My father passed-away a year ago and we just bought our first house. The moments of struggle I will undoubtedly have while embarking on our DIY bathroom remodel make me feel comfort that I now have someone to “call” virtually (which would have been my father) for my questions. Thank you.
IMHO The best system is #30 felt paper directly stapled to the wall studs, lapping inside corners both directions and lapped properly from the pan up to the ceiling then a fat bead of silicone applied on top of the felt over the staples on each stud then 1/2" cement board screwed directly to the studs. Then mesh tape all the joints before tiling. ..that's how I have built them for a long time and never had 1 issue. Nothing bonds a tile down better then good old fashioned cement board. Easy to install, easy to build custom boxes, shelves, seats, the entire system is the cost of a roll of felt and a couple tubes of silicone $20 👍
I am wondering if you could also use a lightweight synthetic polymer underlayment instead of the the felt paper. The synthetic underlayment has replaced felt in roofing applications and most roofers recommend it now over felt. I suspect that the underlayment is much easier to install than felt but would probably be more expensive than felt.
@@picklerix6162 You could use anything waterproof really. You could use Tyvek, 6mil poly, etc.etc. but I would still keep it 3ft tall pieces lapped like 8 inches from the bottom up, it provides a small amount of air exchange into the wall cavity and would keep it from getting mouldy.
Hey Jeff thanks for the video love how you showed the different ways of WATERPROOFING a shower. My wife and I just purchased a home that was built in 1956 that needs a lot of updating guess what I'm doing in spring lol The shower and I need it to last so again THANKS FOR THE VID
I was always told that the place most likely to fail was where the lower edge of the wall met the top lip of the shower. When the tile came down over the lip, water could wick up behind the tile and start molding or tile failure. This seems to be glossed over in this video. What am I missing? You mentioned that the cement in the corner in the segment on the Schluter tape is supposed to expend below the corner and is cemented in. BUT, nothing seems to be done for the rest of the length where the tub joins the wall. Is there a time in the video you could mention that explains this? Cement is much stronger in compression than in tension. So, don't try to stretch or bend the cement if you want to avoid cracking it. One of the ways to avoid weakining the seal between wall and tub was to put weight in the tub while it set up. When the water was drained, the cement would relax and be slightly compressed. When the tub was used, the load on the cement would not be any greater than what it was when the cement first set. Is this still good advice? Thanks for the videos. PS Thanks, too for pointing out the differences in product availability between the Canadian and US markets!
Your video are so informative I love watching all of them and I learn so much each and every time. This video has made up my mind on which water proofing method I'm going to use in my shower this year. I feel the mold resistant with the RedGard is just hands down the best for the price. Thank you! Keep the videos coming!Lawrence
I using Hardi backer and red guard with large format porcelain tiles on top. What type of thinset do you recommend? I wish I had a contractor in my area like you.
I would stick with non-modified.. You are essentially the same as Kerdi, AFA moisture sealing. Modified thinset doesn't cure properly when between 2 impervious surfaces.
How about using cement board and RedGuard? I have used all the systems that you've showed for waterproofing showers. I have found that I usually have to demo drywall anyway behind old shower walls, so i just replace with 1/2 Durock, tape the seams and install RedGuard. Seems to be the fastest most cost effective way for my area here in Charlotte, NC. I really love your channel, you are always very thorough, and you explain your process very well. Thanks. Casey K
I prefer the advise of a craftsman over a salesman any day and it is easy to spot the difference. A salesman spends his time talking about how great a single product is, and convincing you it's inconveniences are really assets. A craftsman spends his time telling you what works and what doesn't, regardless who makes it. Anyone who says "there are a lot of systems' but only explains one over and over is a salesman.
Great video! Love the format. One the best I've watched from you. The tub/shower waterproofing methods have been a real nightmare over the years, wrong materials being applied and used the wrong way. Your demonstration was excellent! With so many new products coming out today there's no reason why a job can't be done with a true solid system. Thanks for sharing the basics of these. I would like to see a better system for sealing the tub to the wall though, water always defies the rules of gravity there, traveling up behind the tile or wallboard. Thanks again!
funny you mention that. we have been using a sealant to bond the tub to the membrane, Schluter now suggests that you use the kerdi band to go under the tile and onto the tub. The excess can be trimmed off after you tile.
Thank you so much for making the time and effort to produce these fantastic videos. Although I am from Australia and we have different products available, your content is really informative. One "HUGE" thumbs up for your great work. Please keep it up. Cheers :)
The comment at 52:30 is absolutely key! After 20 or so years, no matter what product you put on the wall, most women are going to want a more "modern" product. So you really can't go wrong using (1) moisture-resistant drywall; (2) then seal the seams well with a quality mold & water-resistant product that bonds & seals those critical joints (I like DAP 3.0 Advanced Plumbing Sealant); and (3) then use a liquid membrane product, such as RedGuard. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and you'll have a shower that should last 25 yrs.
Hey Jeff, having trouble finding a solid answer to this question, I just got our shower hot mopped and I want to use Kerdi Board on the walls, but I'm wondering if I can use the concrete and Kerdi tape method to seal the Kerdi Board to the actual hot mop tar flooring or if there's a better way to seal it to the tar? Thanks so much!
Great summary of different bathroom waterproofing techniques. I did get a bit confused in the installation differences between # 1 & # 3. They both use the Schluter membrane. So what is the difference? Is the difference in installing it over a bathtub in the first and a walk-in shower in the second? With regards to # 4, could you provide information on a couple of other liquid membranes you might recommend for bathroom waterproofing?
Love what you and your family do to help teach all of us diyers how to correctly get things done. Nothing beats the satisfaction of seeing a job that looks great and functions like it should that was done with our own hands. I don’t know if you’ve done a video on how to create a shower base with a mortar bed, I’ve seen the Schlutter membrane over mortar but I want to tackle making the pre-slope and mortar bed. It seems that there is a thousand ways to do but I don’t have the confidence in the fly by night one off video guys. If I have missed one of your videos that shows the process, please point me in the right direction. Thank you again for all that you do, and please keep the footage coming. P.s- went out and bought a laser level, IT IS F*^~ING AMAZING!!! Can’t for the life of me figure out how I built anything without it LOL
I hope I'm not the only one who can see what kind of garbage this Schluder system (or whatever it's called is). Don't get me wrong, I think videos Jeff makes are awesome, but I see something wrong here. 1. Can't buy their brand caulking- no warranty 2. Cut off gasket around shower head valve- no warranty 3. Many other corners that you have to cut because their specific product is unavailable- no warranty In conclusion- don't but this crap!!!
If you're talking about water resistant liners, could you consider a liner that is rubber, and thick which is used for making water features like fish ponds, and the like for landscaping. I think it's made by Goodyear Rubber. I can buy it and have used it against foundations to waterproof an area that otherwise would absorb groundwater, and also for water features. I can buy it in bulk off a 12 foot roll any size I need. Can there be a way to adhere it to a wall evenly and assure it will stick? It is rubbery, and supple, but will cement stick to it? If there's a question about length of time a product would be waterproof, I feel this might give a 50 year assurance or greater. This is just me thinking about durability, and longevity. I cannot live with the idea of redoing a bathroom after 10 years or so, and believe in overkill for the sake of the home, the house that shelters us in comfort for generations to come. I don't believe in cheap floors, MDF cabinets, cheap windows, and 20 year shingles. Pay good even if it hurts because down the road, you'll be kicking yourself in the butt for not doing the right thing out of the gate. Yet, if you need to camouflage a problem for the sake of selling the house to an unsuspecting new buyer, by all means screw them into thinking they're getting a new bathroom, and shame on you. This is just my opinion. Thumbs up for your review, and double thumbs up for a response. Thanks!
Two critiques, non modified is required for installing kerdi because since the material is impervious to water the latex additive wil never dry out. That will cause the joints to fail. The non modified being only dependent on Portland cement to create the bond will use all of the moisture in the mortar to create a very dense matrix that will be waterproof if a 2" leap joint is used. Second is that it is important to wipe down the drywall prior to applying the mortar to keep the drywall from absorbing some of the water out of the mortar so that the cement can create a proper bond between the board and the membrane.
So, if you can’t get the Kerri sealant, and they won’t warranty their product without it, what good is using their product at all? You pay $110 a board and $30 for a 16 foot roll of their membrane, and then you can’t get the final piece needed for the 10 year warranty to apply... That sounds like a scam to me!!!
Truth ... there are a lot of people who tile - whom shouldn’t. Saddens me that I found one - now I’m faced with making a silk purse out of a Sow’s Ear: or just ripping it out and starting over. The bright side is I ask my non-qualified person to leave half way through. Do I finish and hope for the best - or rip it down. 😬😬😬 I’m just glad I know enough to know bad work and I’m brave enough to Stop. Enjoyed your: surround options -Video.
Hey Boss . I love all your videos one question in mind if you got time to respond is . ... what about the ceiling if the tub should i use a water proof drywall or regular and just paint over with mould resistance painting?
It is believed, among many professionals, that Green Board (which is mold resistant, not waterproof) is not to be used above wet areas in horizontal position as it sag.
Hey Jeff, Great video..! You have a nack for explaining things in such a way that even this Ole' gal can comprehend it. The house we bought in the master bath, the owners installed a jacuzzi tub with a shower arm over head. Which was clever, EXCEPT...He started the tile above the tub, (Crappy job), and never finished it. He enclosed the tub (3 walls), with about an 18" front wall on either side, enclosed from ceiling down about 18-20", leaving a decent size opening. I guess you'd call it a gratto? The idea is really cool, but It looks like he used the red rubbery paint that supposedly waterproofs, then hung dry wall, then started applying the tile on that. Not sure what he used for glue, and did not finish the tile. It definately was used in taking a bath, and showering. Your video is Awesome in showing how to fix our problem. Thank-You SO MUCH..! God Bless :-)
I like the way you talk to the camera you (actually talk) it feels like we're having a real conversation. You're sharing your wisdom with us. Great teacher
Nice! Got to give it away to keep it. Giving Builds the soul
This!!!
Agree with you. Good stuff.
well said
OMG, I'm a DYI weekend warrior. Have just ripped my bathroom apart to build in a walk in shower, new floors, sink, toilet, everything. I've been watching your videos for 3 days, cant get enough, and can't wait to really get started.
Sir, where did you come from, you majestic UA-cam unicorn? I've been digging through DIY youtube for months, just, like, piles of trendy videos about how to build a mid century inspired marble effect vinyl kitchen open shelving with hairpin legs, and here you are, very accurately describing to me the best way to keep my bathroom from turning into a rotten pile of mush. You have personally and directly saved me from the worst of my home renovation impulses. Thank you, so very very much.
Happy to help. Cheers|! BTW I have been here for 3 years.
Jeff the way you're doing and talking at the same time and thing. You are very professional. You must be a teacher because the way you handle your job seem so easy
Redguard Pro Tip: You're note supposed to lay on RedGuard thick. its supposed to be laid on thin initially. You need to prime it. Thick right off the bat will crack as it cures from red to pink. especially at any seam or changes of plane. Also, changes of plane should be reinforced with either a mesh or fiberglass felt for full shower (wall to floor). Cracks = Water penetration = failure of the waterproofing.
Jeff is doing wall to wall seams only.
My son and I are doing our second DIY dry bed shower using durock board on the wall . We watched all the videos and the best info on this video is using Red Guard. Tape you joint real good and RED GUARD till it bleeds . Jeff does a great job explaining all the system you can use.
Cheers jim, thanks!
Just bought a home in the states and I’m a retired carpenter.... I love how relaxed you are in explaining everything. Your videos are great 👍
You are a Godsend. I had to tear out a shower surround and the wallboard beneath it due to mold in a 110-year-old house. I do not have the resources to hire someone. I even took some bids from local workers and I knew their plan was to rip me off because they just weren't charging me enough. I know what the materials cost. I did my own research and decided to do it myself with the help of my son and use RedGard. At the end of this video, I lit up when I saw you using it. And you recommended using it in just the manner I was planning on using it. Thank you for your great videos and advice. We hang the drywall tomorrow.
I don't know how anyone could give these videos a thumbs down. Such a treasure trove of info. I'm about to use the Redgard since that's what the tile installer recommended. I'm way more confident on how to do it now. But now i'm way less confident that it will last the lifetime of the tub! Thank you again! I am tackling things around the house I never thought I could!
I very much appreciate how much detail you go into in these videos. I'm about to start a bathroom remodel and I chose the KERI-BOARD over their liner because it seemed to be a better fit for my abilities and I'd rather spend a little more on something that's going to get me tiling in fewer steps.
I have actually avoided costly mistakes because of your videos. Thank you. I am a lot more proficient in a lot of home construction areas. Keep up the awesome vids.
it's nice to see and hear someone go thru thoroughly..never heard of this system.but will try
Big Diy guy here in the middle of my first master shower remodel. Your compilation video is amazing! First one I've seen that really explained the different ways and how they work. Definitely a member now and thank you so much for your hard work! Off to see how you do your shower base. Mainly scary part for me.
A homeowner here. I thank you for your informative videos. Very much appreciated. God be with you :)
Thank you very kindly!
I love to to see the "old tried and true" methods and you are an excellent guide and teacher, thank you for your dedication to the crafts you are a pure joy to watch!
We are doing our whole bathroom and we are doing the Redgard option in the shower. This made us both feel 100% confident. Thank you.
Cheers Bobby, sounds like you have a good plan there!
I really liked the third system in this video, do you have a complete start to finish video on that install? The custom shower pan seems like what I would have to do. Great Video and thanks again.
thank you sir for showing people all the possible ways and the types of waterproofing one can execute using various products the right way without mickey mousing it through.The work speaks for itself the way you do it guy. Thanks again.
Jeff, at 37 min into this video you installed the shower valve seal backwards. I did the same thing by mistake. The theory is the slope on the rubber seal is supposed to channel the water to the shower side, not to the inside of the wall. Very insidious detail, and unlikely to be an issue.
whenever I watch your show you give us much more information than other shows, and tell us more practical and lower costs, I like it, and learn more, thank you.
Glad to help! Cheers!
I have watched many of your videos and I really don't think there is someone out there who takes the time to not only talk about a specific aspect of building/ renovation but to talk and teach your viewers multiple ways in which to go about it ! Im a carpenter from Scotland and I could watch your videos all day ! I really don't think there would be a difference from learning in person or to watch you on the screen, you are very thorough and I never have to go back and "watch that bit again" its very easy viewing and Im sure everyone would agree we can tell the methods you use have been tried and tested which gives us confidence In applying them. Thanks again and keep up the good work ! I look forward to your next video. P.S you can tell your son is the brains behind the operation haha
Best Bath remodel channel on the internet. Really helped me plan my remodel. Now, I feel really confident. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Really like these compilation videos! Would be great if you had more details in the video description outlining the materials used and when in the video the material is shown. That way it makes it easier to skip to the specific products/materials we're interested in
I like the way you show us the way to do the work in simple words and demonstration. You also explain why and how to do it.
Cheers William!
ive been installing tile for 12 yrs and we always used du-rock and tape and thin-set, never had any problems!
so you don't need a waterproofing membrane?
Still need red guard,durock is not waterproof
Does anyone else feel like they can concur any project after watching this guy??? 🤔👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
You're the Bob Ross of renovations.
Thank you, Jeff, for making this look simple enough for me to try myself. Previous homeowners used drywall and luan! Now I have mold behind the shower. With this and your video on replacing plumbing with PEX, I'm ready to do it right! I appreciate your videos. I always lean so much.
Thanks for being so thorough with the how's and why's while keeping it simple. Awesome video.
I have used Schluter for 19 years and it is a superior product!!!
Cheers and have a great Christmas!
Great Vid! Thanks for all the info!
I would love to see a video of do's and dont's for durock/cement board backing on shower installations. A more detailed video going into things to know when installing the board at the shower pan. What to know and how to install the board on over shower pan pvc liner. I've seen many different techniques with basic explanation, but not found one that is detailed from absolute start to finish. Could you give some advice in this regards please?
Thanks very much. I’m getting ready to do our daughter’s’ bathroom. And this video helped tremendously. I feel comfortable now not using cement board or messing w/a complicated membrane system.
Awesome videos Jeff! I've been a contractor for years and you have a really nice way of explaining things, very practical and flexible. There's always a different way to do something that is right and doesn't break the bank.
Cheers, we like to cover best practices and best options so folks have choices based on budget restraint.
Good demo and instruction. Consider throwing a rubber backed little bathroom rug into the tub or shower while working in there. It protects from scratches and dings.
You have some helpful videos on certain things. Showing products that work with the Kerdi system when the Schluter products you need aren't available. If you are using these products while being a contractor is a no-no. Using these products can void the Schluter warranty if you end up having a problem. I take pictures of all processes while installing this system to protect myself. I am Schluter certified. I do a lot of high end custom showers. I occasionally take my Schluter book out or watch my DVD as a refresher course. Honestly I think you should do the same. I know you are trying to help people and that's great but I do see some things you could brush up on. I'm not trying to offend you I'm just trying to help a fellow tile brother out. Keep up the good work. I enjoy the videos.
as he said, if the shops dont sell it you are already buying a product thats warranty is basically a waste of time.
You are bang on about using modified mortar...I just learned the hard way....luckily the cement board wasn't properly primed so it was easy to peel off the red guard that was applied...LOL...or maybe not...
Mud job tiled surrounds commonly last 50 years or more without mold or rot issues, and are often torn out only because the tile is out of style. They last because there is no paper in the surround, and any moisture that does weep in can dry out without issue. Durrock is the modern equivalent to that time proven system; same approach, but less labor intensive. It's also inexpensive. Other than Durock being heavy, I see few advantages for the DIYer in paying the high material costs for Schluter's system, especially the variant that uses paper faced drywall in the surround. No matter how loudly they claim it's waterproof, no installation is perfect. The important thing is how the system handles small amounts of moisture that eventually will penetrate, and for that, a cement based substrate is better. If you actually read their warranty, you'll see it covers only the failed portion of the assembly, and there are other limitations...don't expect your shower to be rebuilt for free. For the pro, Schluter's system may reduce labor costs enough to offset it's high material cost; I don't know about that. Whatever the case, it's silly to pick any system that has paper in the shower when other equal or lower cost alternatives are readily available. My 2 cents.
Hi Bob, I agree in principle that no install is perfect. That is why I love Schluter. It is engineered so beyond perfect that anyone trying to do a good job cannot possibly screw it up unless they do it on purpose. In the world of DIY I trust homeowners to do a great job with good information. I don't trust contractors to have as much integrity!
I am a total amateur DIYer. I have done two showers and will do two more in my new house. All the DIYers that I know are doing it to save money. They don't have money to burn. They also want to go to home depot or lowes and get the material. Cement backer board, backer board screws and finished off with red guard are all in stock and the big construction stores.
Bob, I must take issue with one of your claims. "The important thing is how the system handles small amounts of moisture that eventually will penetrate, and for that, a cement based substrate is better." Just to understand your claim Are you referring to a Water in/ water out pan with a durock wall substructure as being superior to a topically applied sheet membrane utilizing a bonded flange drain assembly?
NOTE: you didn't mention a vapor barrier behind the CBU? (TCNA B-415, ANSI A108 02 3-8) which is necessary if you are not using a topical waterproofing membrane (ANSI A118-10).
While both systems are approved there are many disadvantages to the traditional method in a modern home. The two most relevant are The traditional method does not handle changes in plane (Niches, Benches, curbless, and many curbs. This is a primary cause of residential shower installation Failures in the US. The surface membranes solve this inadequacy of the traditional mudbed/CBU.
The second issue. Modern homes are very air tight to meet energy effency standards. When a shower leaks into a cavity where it used to evaporate today a small leak will wet rot and mold, this becomes a health hazard.
Because CBU / vapor barrier behind (let alone CBU only, which you seem to suggest) installs are much more likely to leak when the above details are included than with a topical waterproofing system even if the competency of installation is marginal (Schluter in this case) It would be wise to to use a topical membrane.
I disagree. The problem is not that water will eventually dry if it gets into the mud, it's that if the shower is use daily (if it's the only shower in the house that's pretty much a guarantee), there's not enough time for the moisture to dry out so it just collects and collects and mold eventually grows behind the mud and you get all sorts of issues. Waterproofing is really the best way to go. Prevent water penetration from the beginning.
Bob the problem with cement boards is that they do not have the same thickness or more importantly the density of the old mud set systems of days gone by. My experiences inform me that you are correct about the old mud set system. I've never Once found rot or mold behind those old assemblies. I have found lots of rot behind cement boards installations where it was the only thing installed on the wood substrate. Cement boards are not water proof. No exceptions. They are water resistant only. Meaning they are not affected by water but they do not stop the migration of water into the substrate. I installed that system for many years but I recognized the limitations of it so I developed work arounds. I always installed self adhesive and self sealing flashing on the face of studs so that water could not be absorbed into the studs. This was before I researched and then attended both of schluters 2 day seminars/ workshops. What they explain in great scientific detail is that their membrane is completely water and vapor Proof! When installed properly, water in any form cannot find a way through their system. That's why it's fine to use paper faced drywall. I was skeptical of the system the first time I encountered it but after having the science explained to me I use it with total confidence. Not because of the warranty (I quote the late great Chris Farley "I'll take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I've got spare time, but what are you gonna have? A estranged piece of shit") I trust it because it makes scientific sense, that it will perform better over the long haul than my augmented cement boards assembles ever could. While I remain confident that those showers don't leak water (I've yet to get a call back in 15 years) but those could never be moisture vapor proof so they are susceptible to mold. Since the schluter is so much lighter, easier and tremendously better at its intended purpose it's foolish not to use it.
Great video. Im getting ready to redo my home shower because the previous owner didn't water proof the walls and the tile is starting to fall. Those were some great ideas. Just gained another subscriber.
Hi Jesse, in most cases the shower comes without waterproofing from the builder as well. Cheers!
I just replaced a shower with a jetted tub in our master bathroom, used James Hardie hydrodefence "waterproof" cementboard backing, then used Kerdieband on all the seams. I'm not a contractor, but I've done about 4 showers this way and it seems to work. I've been tempted to try the redguard method, but so far the idea of putting it directly over drywall has made me too nervous. Lol.
You sir are one if not "The" best DIY construction video host I have seen yet on here. You are very clear, knowledgeable, and very thorough with your videos as well as adding little tips and things to watch out for to the point that you provide a lot of information in a short time and makes for a much more enjoyable video to watch. Thank you very much for your videos and for sharing informative views and ideas.
Cheers Jess!
You should always use a damp sponge over your drywall before applying thinset for the kerdi system. Same goes with any tile installation, you dont want your walls to get its first drink of water from your mortar. This is extremely important when installing tile over Hardie board. A dry wall or floor will draw too much moisture out of the mortar, reducing its bond strength. In the case of very dry underlayments like Hardie board so much moisture can be drawn out of the mortar that it can cause it to break bond with the tile itself.
Actually a concrete bonding agent should be rolled over any drywall or plaster to avoid any bonding issues.
dmith smith
Water works fine if you keep it wet ahead of you
Paranoid much?
@@chrisj197438 It does, but the bonding agent really works good at keeping it wetted. Nothing sucks worse then a dry bond on sheetrock.
He skipped the the most important step. He failed to give the Sheetrock a drink.
I love your videos! You are like the Bob Ross of home renovations! You make every project seem simple and fun!
Compilation videos are great! Thanks for taking the time to pack em together. After watching this, I'm confident I can do the job myself and the right way.
Awesome demos for sealing systems! Have removed a tub and building a shower enclosure which is being built on existing concrete floor, single story residence in Arizona. Just grateful for the best advice to properly seal the entire system correctly. Thank for all the video instructions! Absolutely needed and hoping I don't screw it up!
Hi Jim, I hope all is going well. If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comment son any video. Cheers!
I’m gonna redo my bathroom soon so I been watching a lot of your video and I feel like I’m know a lot now THANK YOU 😊
Wish me luck
Thank you Jeff. You are an outstanding teacher who inspires confidence and teaches the Why's. Love your videos.
Well done....very informative , well rounded, and nice to see different methods/options. One comment, while I think the Schluter system and products are awesome and as you pointed out a costly option. I'm not sure mentioning the warranty of that system is warranted given that there is no warranty from the instant you introduce your Lepage seal and bond product in place of the shluter caulking that is not readily available. My only concern is that the better part of your audience is DIYers that will follow you procedure to the letter and in the event somewhere along the way they slip up and it results in a failure of some sort, they might think, no problem , i paid the top dollar for the high end product and Jeff said it had a 10 yr warranty, which will be voided. As you clearly stated, it is warrantied providing it is installed per spec. IMO, even if you can't get the shluter caulking/sealant at the major big box stores, if you're going to spend that kind of money, it would be advisable to order it online ....find it and buy it from whereever you must......otherwise, you're probably far better off with the more cost effective red guard option.....just my 2 cents
Excellent tip for the installation of the Schluter Niche. I have done it before and I got awesome feedback from my customer.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great hints one thing that drives be crazy after fourty years in the trade is setters who don't protect the tubs a peace of scrap carpeting makes a perfect cushion for both walking on and dropping tools if you have to replace a tub there's your day wrecked. Home Depot used to carry the notched trowel for kerdi may wanna check.
I prefer a thick moving blanket instead of an old carpet.
I use painters tape along the top edge of the tub. I use 2" tape and tape over the lip into the vertical section of tub. It can stay there until you have installed the grout. Then you just peel it up and throw it out. Maybe $1 in blue tape and the tub edge is protected.
I use cardboard for the base of the tub and an old drop cloth or my old grout cleanup towels to give me some padding in case I drop a tile or tool or anything.
I chipped the porcelain on a tub once and I almost cried. Not again.
Putting in a basement bathroom
As soon as the tub is installed I box it in with plywood, leaving enough gap around the edges for backerboard and tile. I can walk on it, dance on it, drop tools on it, park my truck on it... After seeing another contractor have to replace a $1500 porcelain tub, I don't mess around when it comes to protecting them. Blue tape the gap to keep out dust and granules, cut the tape back as needed when tiling, grouting and caulking.
@@tedspens Similar to my thought except to just make it a flat platform. I couple padded 2by's at the edges keeps it in place. Would seem especially beneficial if doing multiple tubs. They're all the same size to you move a partial sheet of plywood that's a few inches thick from job to job with a little tape to seal the edge each time. $0.02
Fine job on all your videos. You explain it clear, and if I missed something I just play it back. Make it easy.....
Hi Jeff. Great videos! I am in the U.S. Can't seem to find the LePage 2 in 1 seal and Bond. Is there another brand you can recommend? Thanks.
I bought a house not too long ago. The aqua defense over drywall is what my boy friend and i went with. As far as ease of use it wasnt too bad and really didnt take much time
45:50 the most useful information for me... amazing... is what I was missing... thank you so much.
I fastened durock cement board to the studs, one fastener every 6 inches, taped the joints with alkali resistant mesh tape and thinset, filled the screw holes with thinset, used waterproof fabric on the corners and at the tile flange with mapei’s version of Red Guard, put 2 coats of the same stuff on the durock, let it dry and it was very waterproof. I tiled after that, mixed the grout with liquid sealer and grouted. Shower is solid.
Nicely done Mike. Cheers!
your statements are true about tile installation. mortar base adhesive for stone tile is the best way to go.
Personally I have repaired 100 year old shower surrounds an they were made to last.
Also Installed from scratch , the want it now install and custom. you speak Truth.
Cheers John!
Hello, First off I want to compliment you for having by far the best DIY channel on the web. You Deserve a TV Show. Which type of water proofing do you suggest for a steam shower?
Love all your videos Jeff. Thanks. I am curious about the roll-on waterproof membrane. Now that you've created a new surface of membrane over the drywall, that's what the thinset for the tile is going to stick to. Does that have enough integrity so that the weight of the tile wont just pull the membrane off the drywall? Thanks
So clear ! just the right amount of info cadence with out too much blablabla thank you
I've watched soo many of your videos and it has helped me tremendously! Thank you for sharing your skills in a easy, straight forward way. I will be using the kerdie board system this weekend. Thanks a bunch!
You are a awesome teacher , you have made me quite confident that I can do my own bathroom .... Thumb Up you and your channel .
Hey Jeff can you do a video on taking a tub out and doing a walk in shower. Shower pan/shower curb etc
Ericka Robinson go to Schluter site
I second this !
Schluter Kirdi and Ditra both allow the use of polymer-modified thin set mortars to bond the product to the sub-straight; both products also allow the use of speed-setting polymer-modified thin set mortars in setting tile over them. Other than that I liked the info; I’ve used Red Guard too and had good results. Both beat rubber.
Well done, Jeff! I liked your comment about being able to create a shower niche at the right height after some of the tile has been placed. Maybe you can demonstrate that further in a later video. Cheers!
definitely. Cheers!
I must gutted the shower. Re did the drywall, sealed it with the Lepage 2 in 1 seal and painted over with mapai aquadefence. Will tile tomorrow. Also with do the floor. Following the vidéo. 😀
Jeff, I've been watching all your shower video's. Thanks, I've ran my installed the valves, shower pan and ran the pex as you demonstrated. I intend to use the Schluter Kerdi board/system for my shower walls. What I've missed is what's needed for the ceiling? I will have a rain shower head from the center of the shower, plus the usual shower head. I know I can use the Kerdi board for the ceiling but at $100 for a 4x8 sheet, maybe I"m wasting my money where I don't need that level of waterproofing protection. Should I use mold resistant drywall, etc. Please advise. Thanks!
Love your videos Jeff. We need your help though.... I've seen video after video where you are cutting out the old drywall and then installing cement board, or kerdi, or Mold Resistant Drywall and then you leave a gap where the old drywall meets the new product. See 49:14 in the above video. How do you finish that transition between the old and the new? And who do you do it so it doesn't look like a transition?
I am a big fan and You are doing a wonderful job teaching.
Thank you for your very informative videos. We are in the process of tearing out an old tub and the surround, and are planning to install a walk-in shower instead. We are just homeowners with quite a bit of experience in renovating our homes. This will be our first conversion, and we wanted to be sure that we are successful in waterproofing our new shower. You make it easy to understand the potential pitfalls, and the importance of "following directions." Thanks again!
Did I miss cement board? I see that more in your newer videos. How does cement board compare to mold resistant drywall? Based on what I have seen on your channel I think I would choose cement board.
How does it compare in terms of what?
I agree and cement board is still a common and economical product. Not sure why Jeff didn't address this. The only problem I'm aware of with cement boards, like Durock, is that they are heavy to work with and take a little more effort to cut.
Can I do the version with Schulter Kerri-boards boards right to the floor. I have a claw tub and want to put tile on floor and wall. Also, I am feeling more and more confident the more of your videos I watch. Thank you sooo much! My father passed-away a year ago and we just bought our first house. The moments of struggle I will undoubtedly have while embarking on our DIY bathroom remodel make me feel comfort that I now have someone to “call” virtually (which would have been my father) for my questions. Thank you.
IMHO The best system is #30 felt paper directly stapled to the wall studs, lapping inside corners both directions and lapped properly from the pan up to the ceiling then a fat bead of silicone applied on top of the felt over the staples on each stud then 1/2" cement board screwed directly to the studs.
Then mesh tape all the joints before tiling. ..that's how I have built them for a long time and never had 1 issue. Nothing bonds a tile down better then good old fashioned cement board.
Easy to install, easy to build custom boxes, shelves, seats, the entire system is the cost of a roll of felt and a couple tubes of silicone $20 👍
I am wondering if you could also use a lightweight synthetic polymer underlayment instead of the the felt paper. The synthetic underlayment has replaced felt in roofing applications and most roofers recommend it now over felt. I suspect that the underlayment is much easier to install than felt but would probably be more expensive than felt.
@@picklerix6162 You could use anything waterproof really. You could use Tyvek, 6mil poly, etc.etc. but I would still keep it 3ft tall pieces lapped like 8 inches from the bottom up, it provides a small amount of air exchange into the wall cavity and would keep it from getting mouldy.
Hey Jeff thanks for the video love how you showed the different ways of WATERPROOFING a shower. My wife and I just purchased a home that was built in 1956 that needs a lot of updating guess what I'm doing in spring lol The shower and I need it to last so again THANKS FOR THE VID
My pleasure, cheers!
I was always told that the place most likely to fail was where the lower edge of the wall met the top lip of the shower. When the tile came down over the lip, water could wick up behind the tile and start molding or tile failure. This seems to be glossed over in this video. What am I missing? You mentioned that the cement in the corner in the segment on the Schluter tape is supposed to expend below the corner and is cemented in. BUT, nothing seems to be done for the rest of the length where the tub joins the wall. Is there a time in the video you could mention that explains this? Cement is much stronger in compression than in tension. So, don't try to stretch or bend the cement if you want to avoid cracking it. One of the ways to avoid weakining the seal between wall and tub was to put weight in the tub while it set up. When the water was drained, the cement would relax and be slightly compressed. When the tub was used, the load on the cement would not be any greater than what it was when the cement first set. Is this still good advice?
Thanks for the videos.
PS Thanks, too for pointing out the differences in product availability between the Canadian and US markets!
He mentions this aspect in another bathroom renovation video. Guess you gotta watch them all and take notes
I thought the Kerdi bd in 2nd video should come down to overlap lip of tub not quit touching on bottom, leave a small 1/4" or so gap?
Your video are so informative I love watching all of them and I learn so much each and every time. This video has made up my mind on which water proofing method I'm going to use in my shower this year. I feel the mold resistant with the RedGard is just hands down the best for the price. Thank you! Keep the videos coming!Lawrence
Great choice Brian, You will be very happy with that product. Cheers!
I using Hardi backer and red guard with large format porcelain tiles on top. What type of thinset do you recommend? I wish I had a contractor in my area like you.
I would stick with non-modified.. You are essentially the same as Kerdi, AFA moisture sealing. Modified thinset doesn't cure properly when between 2 impervious surfaces.
Thank you for this information. I truly appreciate it.
How about using cement board and RedGuard? I have used all the systems that you've showed for waterproofing showers. I have found that I usually have to demo drywall anyway behind old shower walls, so i just replace with 1/2 Durock, tape the seams and install RedGuard. Seems to be the fastest most cost effective way for my area here in Charlotte, NC.
I really love your channel, you are always very thorough, and you explain your process very well. Thanks. Casey K
remind me to get a one piece shower enclosure or a self standing bathtub.
I was taught to mix it thinner for uncoupling membrane because it grabs the cloth backing better.
Down here on the state's they don't require a big ass gap in the sheet rock.
What's the deal with that, in the first bathroom
Thought I was the only one alarmed by that
He said he cut it short on purpose to show that the Kerdi-band waterproof membrane strip would suffice if Kerdi-board was a bit short.
Your compilation video is great. And I really appreciate the concise to the point format. You don't waste any time getting your point across.
I prefer the advise of a craftsman over a salesman any day and it is easy to spot the difference. A salesman spends his time talking about how great a single product is, and convincing you it's inconveniences are really assets. A craftsman spends his time telling you what works and what doesn't, regardless who makes it. Anyone who says "there are a lot of systems' but only explains one over and over is a salesman.
Appreciate your sharing the positives and negatives of different techniques.
I’m using redgard for my tub/shower walls. Want to know what type of mortor I can use over the redgard. Thank you
What did u end up using? Im trying to find out what thinset is recommended for over redgard
Has anyone found this answer?
I like the realism and honesty!
Amazing practical methods of getting stuff done.
Great video! Love the format. One the best I've watched from you. The tub/shower waterproofing methods have been a real nightmare over the years, wrong materials being applied and used the wrong way. Your demonstration was excellent! With so many new products coming out today there's no reason why a job can't be done with a true solid system. Thanks for sharing the basics of these. I would like to see a better system for sealing the tub to the wall though, water always defies the rules of gravity there, traveling up behind the tile or wallboard. Thanks again!
funny you mention that. we have been using a sealant to bond the tub to the membrane, Schluter now suggests that you use the kerdi band to go under the tile and onto the tub. The excess can be trimmed off after you tile.
Thank you so much for making the time and effort to produce these fantastic videos. Although I am from Australia and we have different products available, your content is really informative. One "HUGE" thumbs up for your great work. Please keep it up. Cheers :)
The comment at 52:30 is absolutely key! After 20 or so years, no matter what product you put on the wall, most women are going to want a more "modern" product. So you really can't go wrong using (1) moisture-resistant drywall; (2) then seal the seams well with a quality mold & water-resistant product that bonds & seals those critical joints (I like DAP 3.0 Advanced Plumbing Sealant); and (3) then use a liquid membrane product, such as RedGuard. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and you'll have a shower that should last 25 yrs.
Hey Jeff, having trouble finding a solid answer to this question, I just got our shower hot mopped and I want to use Kerdi Board on the walls, but I'm wondering if I can use the concrete and Kerdi tape method to seal the Kerdi Board to the actual hot mop tar flooring or if there's a better way to seal it to the tar? Thanks so much!
Great summary of different bathroom waterproofing techniques.
I did get a bit confused in the installation differences between # 1 & # 3. They both use the Schluter membrane. So what is the difference? Is the difference in installing it over a bathtub in the first and a walk-in shower in the second?
With regards to # 4, could you provide information on a couple of other liquid membranes you might recommend for bathroom waterproofing?
TEC makes a liquid membrane.
Love what you and your family do to help teach all of us diyers how to correctly get things done. Nothing beats the satisfaction of seeing a job that looks great and functions like it should that was done with our own hands. I don’t know if you’ve done a video on how to create a shower base with a mortar bed, I’ve seen the Schlutter membrane over mortar but I want to tackle making the pre-slope and mortar bed. It seems that there is a thousand ways to do but I don’t have the confidence in the fly by night one off video guys. If I have missed one of your videos that shows the process, please point me in the right direction. Thank you again for all that you do, and please keep the footage coming.
P.s- went out and bought a laser level, IT IS F*^~ING AMAZING!!! Can’t for the life of me figure out how I built anything without it LOL
Thank you for a great video and for sharing your knowledge. Gave me more confidence!
Cheers!
I hope I'm not the only one who can see what kind of garbage this Schluder system (or whatever it's called is). Don't get me wrong, I think videos Jeff makes are awesome, but I see something wrong here.
1. Can't buy their brand caulking- no warranty
2. Cut off gasket around shower head valve- no warranty
3. Many other corners that you have to cut because their specific product is unavailable- no warranty
In conclusion- don't but this crap!!!
Have used Redguard and its a great. Also used Densshield. Thanks Jeff
If you're talking about water resistant liners, could you consider a liner that is rubber, and thick which is used for making water features like fish ponds, and the like for landscaping. I think it's made by Goodyear Rubber. I can buy it and have used it against foundations to waterproof an area that otherwise would absorb groundwater, and also for water features. I can buy it in bulk off a 12 foot roll any size I need. Can there be a way to adhere it to a wall evenly and assure it will stick? It is rubbery, and supple, but will cement stick to it? If there's a question about length of time a product would be waterproof, I feel this might give a 50 year assurance or greater. This is just me thinking about durability, and longevity. I cannot live with the idea of redoing a bathroom after 10 years or so, and believe in overkill for the sake of the home, the house that shelters us in comfort for generations to come. I don't believe in cheap floors, MDF cabinets, cheap windows, and 20 year shingles. Pay good even if it hurts because down the road, you'll be kicking yourself in the butt for not doing the right thing out of the gate. Yet, if you need to camouflage a problem for the sake of selling the house to an unsuspecting new buyer, by all means screw them into thinking they're getting a new bathroom, and shame on you. This is just my opinion. Thumbs up for your review, and double thumbs up for a response. Thanks!
the pvc liner has a few defects in thew install technique that allow for major problems and smells down the road. This is a much superior system.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thanks for your reply
Two critiques, non modified is required for installing kerdi because since the material is impervious to water the latex additive wil never dry out. That will cause the joints to fail. The non modified being only dependent on Portland cement to create the bond will use all of the moisture in the mortar to create a very dense matrix that will be waterproof if a 2" leap joint is used. Second is that it is important to wipe down the drywall prior to applying the mortar to keep the drywall from absorbing some of the water out of the mortar so that the cement can create a proper bond between the board and the membrane.
So, if you can’t get the Kerri sealant, and they won’t warranty their product without it, what good is using their product at all? You pay $110 a board and $30 for a 16 foot roll of their membrane, and then you can’t get the final piece needed for the 10 year warranty to apply... That sounds like a scam to me!!!
Truth ... there are a lot of people who tile - whom shouldn’t. Saddens me that I found one - now I’m faced with making a silk purse out of a Sow’s Ear: or just ripping it out and starting over. The bright side is I ask my non-qualified person to leave half way through. Do I finish and hope for the best - or rip it down. 😬😬😬 I’m just glad I know enough to know bad work and I’m brave enough to Stop.
Enjoyed your: surround options -Video.
Always a tough call. In many jurisdictions tile sets have a specific license.
Hey Boss . I love all your videos one question in mind if you got time to respond is . ... what about the ceiling if the tub should i use a water proof drywall or regular and just paint over with mould resistance painting?
It is believed, among many professionals, that Green Board (which is mold resistant, not waterproof) is not to be used above wet areas in horizontal position as it sag.
Hey Jeff,
Great video..! You have a nack for explaining things in such a way that even this Ole' gal can comprehend it. The house we bought in the master bath, the owners installed a jacuzzi tub with a shower arm over head. Which was clever, EXCEPT...He started the tile above the tub, (Crappy job), and never finished it. He enclosed the tub (3 walls), with about an 18" front wall on either side, enclosed from ceiling down about 18-20", leaving a decent size opening. I guess you'd call it a gratto? The idea is really cool, but It looks like he used the red rubbery paint that supposedly waterproofs, then hung dry wall, then started applying the tile on that. Not sure what he used for glue, and did not finish the tile. It definately was used in taking a bath, and showering. Your video is Awesome in showing how to fix our problem. Thank-You SO MUCH..! God Bless :-)
I personally love the compilation videos!
Thanks for telling us Samuel. Good to get the feedback.