I have a ls vtec 94 acura integra boosted with oem b16 cams and forge rods and pistons .runs on a garret 62/62 turbo its close to 400hp next week im going to dyno it … nice job john lets hope the eg hits 800 hp .im watching your videos from puerto rico 🇵🇷💪👀
Man must not live on bread alone, but by every word that comes forth from the mouth of God. Jesus loves you brother John and wants a relationship with you. Open up your bible today if you don’t have one order one God is alive and always wants to talk to his children. Thanks for the car content God bless you ❤️
Just a suggestion man, your body can only break down around 30 grams in one sitting that will be useful. Spreading out the protein equally will be more beneficial 👍🏼
i hope you spent a good amount of time cleaning all possible oil and coolant out of the headstud holes, when that stuff goes through a few heat cycles its well known that it can cause your headstuds to loosen up an head gasket to blow. and take it from me, ive had a couple headstuds blow out at about 600hp because of this problem. it will also cause your headstuds to spin like they did when you were torquing them down. getting a loose feeling, then tightening again.
You guys are right about the 80 ft-lbs thing, but you’re incorrect about the lube part. Nowhere in the instructions does it say to lubricate the block tread side of the studs. Will be retorquing off camera.
@@boosted_john it’s just a given bud. Threads get lube. For future reference it’ll help keep the studs from becoming stuck in the block if this motor doesn’t come apart for a while. But to each their own. I’ve never had any issues lubing the threads into the block, you’ve probably never had any issues not doing it.
@@boosted_john i lube the stud threads that goes into block with motor oil and than tourqe them to about 20 lbs so that they would back out and than i lube the nuts that hold the head down with the arp lube that come with the kit
Can someone pls help me on with my ring gap?? I have wiseco pistons 10:5 lsvtec I want to run some boost but not everyday maybe like some race days but mainly it’s my daily driver
Yo dude how do u think u can run boost in som days n then on other days without take the turbo stuff off n just put a header on in n run full exhaust.i just DNT understand watu say by u wanna run boost on some days LMFAO. U must be real young dude n haven't worked on a car B4 or nun like dat. Like messing with a motor n I would recommend u taking ur motor to som1 that knows wat they doing bcuz u comn Fk somn up 4 sure
This is PER ARP 1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser. 2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension. 3. If the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER. 4. Screw studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”. NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP. 5. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment. 6. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used. PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS 7. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 80 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
If “screw head studs into block” comes before “lubricate threads”, then you are only able to lubricator the top threads since the bottom threads are already in the block. Clean and dry.
@@boosted_john thanks bro! First of all congrats on how far you’ve come on your youtube journey. I wanna give this whole youtube thing a shot. Could you recommend me some kind of computer and editing software that I could use!?
when i do any headgasket i dont put the copper spray on them anymore and I dont put in the aftermarket market head studs in frist anymore i clean the block surface and head surface and aftermarket head studs than put head gasket on the right way than put head on than put the aftermarket head studs in
Bro you hit the nail on the head @2:50 . I needed to hear that ngl. I appreciate this upload John
I got you homie. Get to work 🤘
I have a ls vtec 94 acura integra boosted with oem b16 cams and forge rods and pistons .runs on a garret 62/62 turbo its close to 400hp next week im going to dyno it … nice job john lets hope the eg hits 800 hp .im watching your videos from puerto rico 🇵🇷💪👀
Wtfff how do u get parts over there bro
Hondas and Rotors are our thing, check prestige performance, faster motorsports, redstartmotorsport, and chapulin performance 🙌🏻 all from P.R 🇵🇷
Man must not live on bread alone, but by every word that comes forth from the mouth of God. Jesus loves you brother John and wants a relationship with you. Open up your bible today if you don’t have one order one God is alive and always wants to talk to his children. Thanks for the car content God bless you ❤️
Amen to that ❤️
A good dose of Vitamin G (Gratitude) is so therapeutic. I’m getting my dose right now. LY ❤
Love ya mom ❤️
Nice one bro 👍 👍 👍
Just a suggestion man, your body can only break down around 30 grams in one sitting that will be useful. Spreading out the protein equally will be more beneficial 👍🏼
i hope you spent a good amount of time cleaning all possible oil and coolant out of the headstud holes, when that stuff goes through a few heat cycles its well known that it can cause your headstuds to loosen up an head gasket to blow. and take it from me, ive had a couple headstuds blow out at about 600hp because of this problem. it will also cause your headstuds to spin like they did when you were torquing them down. getting a loose feeling, then tightening again.
the arp tourqe specs are three step to 80 ft lbs on bsereis with there lube
Yup, @5:09 it did that because there was no lube.
You guys are right about the 80 ft-lbs thing, but you’re incorrect about the lube part. Nowhere in the instructions does it say to lubricate the block tread side of the studs.
Will be retorquing off camera.
@@boosted_john it’s just a given bud. Threads get lube. For future reference it’ll help keep the studs from becoming stuck in the block if this motor doesn’t come apart for a while. But to each their own. I’ve never had any issues lubing the threads into the block, you’ve probably never had any issues not doing it.
@@boosted_john also lube under the nuts and on the washers but I’m sure you did that part.
@@boosted_john i lube the stud threads that goes into block with motor oil and than tourqe them to about 20 lbs so that they would back out and than i lube the nuts that hold the head down with the arp lube that come with the kit
100 ft lbs is really scarry doing head studs on a gsr lol makes me want to cry
Congrats on 70k! I just realized lol
How much snow u have now lol I’m by Champaign got like 3 inches yesterday and supposed to be 60 next wensday lol
Zero inches my man.
You have a indomorph physic. You should be far more concerned about you carb I take
I just try to eat everything within arms reach haha
Love watching you John, can't wait to get my honda on the road again, watching you love spanner ing on yours makes me want mine so much more!
“Spannering” haha
Good luck with your build homie!
Just picked up a Widebody
B swapped 00” DX Hatchback, live in the DMV NoVa area and need a shop to do this exact kind of work
Can someone pls help me on with my ring gap?? I have wiseco pistons 10:5 lsvtec I want to run some boost but not everyday maybe like some race days but mainly it’s my daily driver
Yo dude how do u think u can run boost in som days n then on other days without take the turbo stuff off n just put a header on in n run full exhaust.i just DNT understand watu say by u wanna run boost on some days LMFAO. U must be real young dude n haven't worked on a car B4 or nun like dat. Like messing with a motor n I would recommend u taking ur motor to som1 that knows wat they doing bcuz u comn Fk somn up 4 sure
Top ring .18
Second ring .21
Oil ring good to go out of the box. But it all depends on how much boost/power you want to make
2024 Is it man! Make yourself a Little better each day is the best thing you can do! Love the outlook John! Keep on brother!
Hi bro do u think that the ac can fix With your spec of manifold and turbo ?
Maybe. Depends what turbo you’re running I think.
Love these videos I’m a apprentice mechanic and I’m watching this on my break 😂
I got top at 9:04 😂
Nice car like it
God every time a video drops I stop by love the video john your my inspiration to keep going on my hatch ❤
❤❤
Love the cave. Love how real youre chanel is brother. Thanks for the motivation
At this point this car need reviving every 3 months
lol. No joke. Imagine being me.
Love the work john, best up and coming. cant wait to see how far you go.
This is PER ARP
1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser.
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3. If the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
4. Screw studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”.
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE
FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
5. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment.
6. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
7. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 80 ft lbs
with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
If “screw head studs into block” comes before “lubricate threads”, then you are only able to lubricator the top threads since the bottom threads are already in the block. Clean and dry.
@@boosted_johnthat is correct
Do you have flashpro on 8th gen? If not it will wake it up quite a bit on basemaps even though it’s best to get a proper tune.
I do not have one yet. I will get one at some point. Just got bigger fish to fry at the moment.
Hell yea new uploadddd🙌
What camera do you use bro!?
Sony A6400
Sigma 10-18mm f2.8
@@boosted_john thanks bro! First of all congrats on how far you’ve come on your youtube journey. I wanna give this whole youtube thing a shot. Could you recommend me some kind of computer and editing software that I could use!?
@@jprides4000 iPhone + cap cut.
Don’t buy anything until you’ve been doing it consistently for about a year.
I like the font at 5:00 :)
Big Brixton Lead guy over here
when i do any headgasket i dont put the copper spray on them anymore and I dont put in the aftermarket market head studs in frist anymore i clean the block surface and head surface and aftermarket head studs than put head gasket on the right way than put head on than put the aftermarket head studs in