66 Chevy-Install 3 point seatbelts
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- We installed seatbelts of the more modern variety. Much safer, I think. Still have more to do.
Don't forget to check out our new website, where you can get apparel and some of Mrshevyshevy's metal art. Go to mrhevyshevy.com/
Enjoy watching you're family working together. Seat belts was a wise decision. I've owned a few of the '60-'66 Chevy trucks. I highly recommend buying the gas tank kit to intall tank at rear. I got my kits from Chevy Duty. Can be installed half a day. Lil extra time I opted to cut a fuel door from a first generation S10 to mount on bedside for filler. I used my trucks as trucks so I didn't want filler on bed floor. Even with stock fuel tank in great condition. I would smell fuel every now and then. For $200-$250 you can make truck safer for your daughter. You do great work and have giving me ideas to help on my projects,...Thanks!!!
Compressor and electric fans are pretty heavy loads on a 1966 electrical system. That battery may be a bit soft, as well. Keep checking grounds - your brake lights may be on because of something back-feeding through the brake lights in search of a chassis ground. Seen stranger things. Truck is looking and sounding terrific!
I did shoulder harnesses on my 55 big window the exact same way. Thanks and glad little miss has them in.
Mike
upper seat belt anchor strength looks ok to me. Very responsible of you to provide seat belts.
Thanks to this video i found how to intall my 3 poinfs seatbelts in my 54 chevy 3100 which had none from factory...
Have to have them here in Puerto Rico by law...
Excellent
I believe your body would rip in half before that plate pulled through the sheet metal.
Slick job on the seatbelt shoulder support, but I agree with beefing up that area for surety.
That shoulder belt bracket, mounted the way you have it, is more than strong enough to do the job. If you hit something hard enough to have the shoulder harness pull hard enough to tear that mounting plate through that sheet metal, you're going to be dead anyway.
Unplug the wire going to the brake lights AT THE SWITCH and read that "un-plugged" wire for voltage. If it has 12v, something is "back feeding" power to the lamps. If there is power at BOTH sides of the switch, the switch is shorted out or closed due to positioning. Of course, you probably have it figured out by now. ;o)
A 94 amp alternator from a mid 80's 454 truck with an electric radiator booster fan will work just fine on there. I had problems with alternators from the parts store, would only last about a year. I bought a 94 amp core online and rebuilt it myself with a HD kit, no problems so far.
Nice job, really glad I stumbled on your videos. Love the level of detail you provide.
Convert to a si alternator , check turn signal switch for possible brake light issue.
Those seat belts turned out nice!
Man I thought for sure you scared those tail lights straight....Seat belts are looking good 👍
Those original alts on those old trucks are only 37amp and 42amp if I remember right. Not near enough to run all the add ons. Need to upgrade .......... I Owned a bunch of those old trucks and worked in auto parts sales and repair for many many years.....Thanks for the videos.
This works, but what I did was tack weld the back plate to a length of 1/4” round rod, hold it up inside the pillar, bolt the 3 point harness mount on there then give the 1/4” bar a twist and break it off. This way you don’t have any ugly screw heads around the harness mount.
A hybrid of both your methods is to just put a pop rivet in the lower hole since the belt covers it. In the future if you have to take the seat belts out you might have trouble getting that plate to not spin and wish it had a rivet to hold it in place
Great job on those seat belts ! Now you just need to get rid of that in cab fuel tank.
Those seatbelts look nice in the '66.
I think them shoulder straps are strong enough. most stock shoulder straps are set up the same way. ... Gotta love Charlie Daniels ..
Granny does your dog bite? No child, no.
MostlymoparIH Chicken in the bread pan pickin out dough
You got me.
Have a great day Dean.
Thank you for the information on where to get belt parts
Shoulder belts?? Oh man I would have just run with lap belts. Looks awesome though thanks for sharing another fabulous show 🍦🍨🍦cheers.
I know that the shoulder belts take away from the look of the truck, but they will provide so much more protection than just a lap belt. I was driving a 1970 Buick Electra in 1974 and was wearing both the lap and shoulder belts when I was hit head on by a drunk driver in a Cadillac. I walked away with only bruises from the belts which was far better than the unbelted other driver who had massive head and chest injuries from the steering wheel. I was that rare teenager back then that buckled up both the lap and shoulder belts when I drove
Check that brake light switch on the brake pedal. It is adjustable and may be backed out to far.
Nope. 95% chance it's either a ground or a short. If it was the brake light switch, the position of the ignition switch would not be a factor. I say 95% because I've learned to never completely rule out anything until the problem is solved. I suppose, somehow, it could end up being the brake light switch, but I doubt it. He should add a test ground to his brake light circuit. and if that doesn't help, cut the power feed to the brake light switch, tap into any convenient source of constant power, and run a wire from there to the brake light switch - Problem solved and have a beer to celebrate.
you may also want to consider installing some sort of headrest to protect her head in the event of a rear end collision.
Let's not get crazy here. The man also owns motorcycles and allows his kids to ride on them. You're safer in a totally stock classic truck with no seat belt at all, gas tank in the cab, and worn out drum brakes on all four corners than you are riding a scooter at any speed, whether you're wearing a helmet or not.
PULL THE BRAKE PEDAL UP AND SEE IF THE LIGHTS GO OUT. Tis the brake pedal falling down making the lights come on. Mine came on even when the truck wasn't running. They sell springs to push the brake pedal up...but in my case it didn't move the pedal up far enough.
if that was the case, the brake lights would be on all the time. His brake lights come on only when the ignition key is on the "on " position. The problem almost certainly has nothing to do with his brake light switch.
Hey, thanks for your video on grip tight for stripped bolts, I'm going to give that a try on a problem starter I can't get off.
Thanks for watching. I've got a number of special tools and tricks for taking care of that problem. Someday, I'm going to make another video, covering all of them. I've had the exact same problem as the one you're facing, with a starter on a '98 GMC K3500. The grip tight sockets worked just fine.
I believe that upper seatbelt plate should go behind the sheet metal, no?
Great video Bruther, thanks for sharing with us!
My pleasure!!
It's a little bit like wrestlin' snakes ain't it.. Got my shirt. Thanks!
Cool
Nice job on those seat belts sir.
you ever use the larger alternator off the early 62 diesals work real well if you put the smaller pully on them I use them all the time hope this helps
6.2 diesels
I used to have one around here somewhere...
Great tip thank you so much! I just got a 1964 GMC 3500 with a big 305 V6 One ton..do you no ware I can get parts for it? Like breaks suspension . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
if the brake lights only come on when the key is on, I would think it has to be cross feeding from the turn signals somehow
It is, from the left turn signal.
The seat back out again! Oh no! Good Vid. Thank's
Nice job.
MrHevyshevy , don't you have a smaller alternator pull that would spin it faster at a lower RPM
Hi, I wanted to order seat belts like you got, but ad said wouldn't work with gas tank behind seat, I emailed Seat Belt Solutions but no response unless it was a typo. Thanks
Worked for me. My gas tank is behind the seat.
Look in the hole for obstacles and what not.
Is that so ya know what ta do and what not ta do?
That was the idea.
Could I use the upper bolts on the panel you said to reinforce as a mounting point for the upper portion of the belt in my 65 Suburban? There are several of these going up the panel and was thinking they might be good for mounting? Thanks
How ya get the wire unhooked from bracket?
Have you had any thoughts on moving the fuel tank out of the cab ? and back to the spare tire area . I don't like the idea of all that gas behind me and have moved them in the past for safety . I have used a early mustang tank and with chev minded thoughts maybe a Nova or Vega tank would work . Truck looks great .
I did that on a '70 Chevy truck I used to have. I used a fuel tank from a '72 Blazer and a filler neck assembly from the same vintage Chevy pick up with an auxiliary fuel tank. Pretty much a direct bolt-in. Perhaps MrHevyshevy could accomplish the same thing using a '60 - '66 Suburban/panel truck tank. The downside is, you sacrifice your stock spare tire mounting location.
Where do the seatbelts come from?
What kit is this? I am gonna start working on my 66 c10 and I am paraplegic so I definitely need to install seat belts so I dont slide all over the bench seat.
the more amps you take away, the more you need to replace.
mr hevyshevy what king of camera do you use to make these videos i saw it one time but couldnt tell what kind it was . i like your videos buddy keep it up
Canon SX40HS
charlie daniels sounded good
Do they make power steering pump setups for the 283. I'm doing a 54 new yorker that has no engine an tranny, or a Buick 350 I have laying around but the Buick is hard to find accessories for. The car has power steering,so I would do a 283 if I could run power steering pump on it thanks
Anything off a small block chevy will fit.
how many Amps is that Alternator? I ran a 105 amp internal regulator (87-90 Camaro tpi v8 original application) on my 72 Chevelle 350 with the orginal 72 Chevelle V belt pulley.
37 amps..not enough.
On the External regulator they made a 61, 62, 63 & 68 amp. Those are a direct swap, other then pulley may need changed.
could the brake light problem be the brake light switch behind the pedal needing adjustment?..... thanks for sharing sir....
I doubt it. He said that the brake lights come on and stay on, whenever the ignition switch is turned on, whether the brake pedal is depressed or not. The problem is almost certainly upstream from the brake light switch. What I would do, is disconnect the power feed to the brake light switch and run a new wire to any source of constant 12 volt (whether key is turned on or not) power. If that took care of the problem, I'd just leave it like that and not worry about it again. I know it's a Mickey Mouse fix, but what the hell. It's an old truck and it almost certainly wouldn't cause any other unintended problems. Plus, who wants to tear a whole wiring harness apart, searching for a needle in a haystack problem, when an alternative quick fix is that easy?
i have come across some brake light switches that get a bit sticky in the on position so when the ignition is turned on the brake lights stay on... you're right about the needle in a haystack. wiring can be a nightmare to find the fault....
Will you be adding 3 point belts to the 55?
Where did you get the kit
I don’t remember now. I think it’s in the video
Where did you get the kit from?
The most useless install video on UA-cam.