Diagnosing Low Oil Pressure Concern GM Pick Up Truck
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- Diagnosing Low Oil Pressure Concern In a Chevrolet Silverado. LS based engine With DOD/AFM system that has been deactivated. I also talk a small amount about Oil consumption for these trucks. There is a TSB for said oil consumption that claimed a bad lifter can cause it and I come to a unexpected conclusion.
Favorite coffee
amzn.to/2HfmkCt
amzn.to/2Q4hfA4
My website
www.crazedperformancerepair.com/
Crazed Performance Repair UA-cam channel
To show some love support me with PayPal at crazedtech85@gmail.com
Automotive technician - Авто та транспорт
Dude, you put a LOT of thought into this. Refreshing. The stealership would not allow a tech to spend that much time (cause you can't bill for it) trying to use the scientific method at diagnosing problems. Appreciate you sharing it with us!
It’s a GM Truck. They suck. 😂😂😂
@@philipcbarrera1537
Yeah. I only got 238,000 miles out of my oil pump. Darn it.
GM oil pressure spec 12psi at 1200rpm - looks like you pass. Flutter - not a concern unless lifter noise. Oil pressure can very depending on where measured - LF oil galley (before filter) LR oil galley (after filter). After filter may be less than before filter if filter is restricted (dirty) PF48e Oil filter bypass valve 12psi. Note - filter change overdue when you see oil pressure drop from normal indicating oil filter restricting. Oil pressure very low at sensor could be due to filter screen below sensor on AFM engines. FYI - oil to cooler lines is after filter.
Would a site glass be useful for oil flow evaluation - maybe. Aerated oil can typically be seen on the dipstick if it is a root cause issue.
Using an old oil cooler line set with some clear vinyl tubing (capable of handling the pressure) attached between the tubes (i.e. bypass the rad cooler) would be a simple setup to see what's going on. Single bolt to attach at the oil pan. Could put clear tube inline and maintain cooler connections.
Lastly - When dealing with a seriously low oil pressure issue (as measured with a mechanical gauge at left side of engine oil galley), pull oil pan, block off oil pick up tube screen and oil filter supply holes, pressurize the LF oil galley with 20psi oil and see if excessive oil leaking (pump relief valve, pick up tube O ring or cracked tube). Pressurize the LR oil galley and see if the AFM manifold, cam or main bearings or lifters have excessive oil flow. Air check the AFM relief in the oil pan to see if it's leaking.
I had watched this video before I experienced low oil pressure. Today at a red light I looked down to see the pressure gage at 10psi. Thank you to this channel because I have already disabled the AFM and knew that 10psi was enough at idle to keep things oiled. The moment the engine is given any gas the oil pressure shoots right up. I think that I am to blame for this issue. I changed the oil and used an oil brand that I have never used as well as an oil filter brand I have never used. Donaldson oil filter? Anyway thank you again for having shared so much of what you know to help us out here in the rat race.
So what was your problem?
I had A 2005 Silverado with 5.3.. It was the O-rings in the pickup tube.. One where the pickup tube is joined in the middle and another O-ring where it mates up to the oil pump. Both O-rings were deteriorated and allowed it to suck air. Also, I switched from SAE 5W-30 to SAE 10W-40. to improve oil pressure on an engine with 200K miles. It now has 310K miles, and is still holding pressure.
This one ended up being a leaking lifter.
Thanks for the analysis!
I had the same issue and I fixed it with berryman's B12 chemtool I paid $4 for a can of it at Dollar General I put it directly in my oil before I changed it I ran the engine for 15 minutes and then I drained it and put Pennzoil full synthetic and that completely fixed it
I just wanna say thank you for Helping me with my oil pressure Sensor on my 1990 Chevy S 10 Tahoe
Thank you for the teaching, keep them rolling. :)
You bet! I make sure to post new video at least once a week.
Otc makes a oil filter pressure tester. You remove the filter and screw it in place. Could add a hose and a glass window or clear hose then add a valve and just have the valve just barely cracked into a funnel to go back into the oil fill to have a way to see what is going on for air in the oil.
Very interesting. And ingenious.
2012 silverado. Came in with a dead sender. Replaced it and it seemed fine. As it warms up,oil pressure drops and eventually reaches zero. Tried another sender and same issue. New screen.
Oil pressure zero, stop engine and immediately restart, oil pressure goes back up and slowly starts to plummet back to zero. Living in the boonies in canada, obtaining a pressure gauge adapter is next to impossible. Guess i will go online and see what i can get. M16x1.5, correct? All the kits i looked at dont list adapter sizes.
So, used old sensor to make adaptor. Plug in block behind p/s pump. Engine warmed up and placed under load. 52 psi at oil pump and 6 psi on dash/scan tool.
Changed oil and filter and its resolved.
Now 45 psi at oil pump and roughly the same at dash.
It had a corrected rich condition, thinking diluted oil washed particles into filter. Caused it to restrict oil flow.
I changed my oil and filter last week. The old filter was a WIX 57060XP and the new filter was an AC Delco PF48E. Noticed immediately that the oil pressure dropped by 15-25 PSI throughout the next driving cycle of 250 miles. I pulled off the PF48E and put on a new 57060XP and oil pressure was back to normal.
Sounds like your engine is dirty and contaminating the filter. The wix filter just has less pleats which means it can't hold as much contaminants because it's a cheaper filter.
I could hear the valve fluctuations perfectly in time with the gauge fluctuations. I haven't seen the entire video yet, but I predict I'll hear the engine smooth out after you flush the engine.
I hope you get paid for your effort. I completely understand your desire to make a concrete diagnosis for your customer. I hate throwing parts at a problem too, but sometimes guys like yourself (and myself) can get over invested in diagnosis, to the point that throwing in that part from a best guess would have been a better solution than trying to understand the problem. I've found that working with more than one tech can really help with unusual problems, it often gives the confidence to make a best guess recommendation or alternatively pushes us to continue down the diagnosis path. I work alone right now too and I find myself working for free down the rabbit hole more than I should. (I found your video while researching an oil pressure issue for a customer, HA)
Isn't that the dang Truth. At the same time though I win often enough it usually pans out. Key word usually lol
I love LS engines and LS engine swaps planning to LS swap my grandmas rascal scooter next
My 04 suburban did the same thing after I put in a v8 can of restore. Drained and flushed the oil,pressure came back but still fluctuated. Put some washers as shims on the pressure valve on the pump and problem solved.
Nice.
I'd add 6 ounces of SignalTech Hydraulic Assist Blinker Fluid to the crank case. Problem solved.
I have a question I changed the oil pan I ring it worked but 1yr later no functions AFM disabled but could the loss of pressure be from AFM plate o-rings under intake
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
I purchased your lifter repair kit and it works great. I have used it on a couple of trucks and it was very easy to use. Unfortunately my own truck has started acting up. I've freed the #7 cyl lifter twice it required a slight tap and it pops free.
My oil pressure is to low at idle (approx 5-10 psi) it jumps up to 20psi off idle when warm. Ive done the usual screen replacement, Lucas oil, etc. I tore the front of the engine apart to replace the O ring in the oil pump. My question is if my oil pressure jumps back up after the O ring will it help stop my lifter from sticking? Or should I just pop the head and replace the lifters.
Thanks in advance I appreciate the help
As long as the vlom mod and tune to disable AFM are done, it shouldn't happen again. This is unless there is a more serious issue. If that's done and it happens again you likely have bad locks or the lifter is spun in the bore from a bad plastic guide. If it is spun in the bore the camshaft will also be damaged.
I want to test the oil pressure on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 5.3 L .but I don't know what the tool looks like to test it can you give me any ideas.
It applies to all LS engines, doesnt matter if from 97-2016...
The fluctuation you see are pulses from the spur gear pump itself also the psi drop could have been one of the two bypass regulators sticking . There's one in the pump and one in the pan the one in the pump is know to stick open letting oil psi bypass
I have actually come to believe that the fluctuations have been coming from leaking lifters. I will be releasing a new video on the new problem that I have found in the next couple of weeks.
Drop the pan replace the high flow pump see if that helps it be nice to know time is money and you have more money in thought
There is a service bulletin as per GM Technical Service number PIP4158H: Low Oil Pump Pressure Due To Sticking Oil Pressure Relief Valve - (Aug 7, 2019) based on my 25 years as GM Tech I recommend to have a look at engine oil pump, specially on those high millage trucks, 90% of the time is the oil pump. Either due to a sticking oil pressure relief valve or a weak-worn out valve spring that is inside the pressure relief valve.
This one ended up being the lifters causing the issue. I have yet to have an oil pump fail on these. I've seen a lot with over 300k miles even.ive also found those service bulletin's have been a joke lately. For example, they claim the oil pan relief valve causes oil consumption. 99% of the time it's the PCV baffling being plugged or the lifters squirting so much oil they saturate the drain holes on the baffling.
I have a 02 Blazer with the v-6. At start up I have 60 psi. When it gets hot at idle it's around 20. The engine is as quiet as a mouse and has lots of power. I did add some MMO just for good measure.
That's normal oil pressure for a older blazer. They typically hot idle around 20-30psi if I recall correctly. Been a long time since I've worked on one.
@ crazed performance repair. I love all your videos, very informative. My question to you is: I have a 2019 Silverado 5.3 that had 2 lifters go out @ 12000 miles. Dealership replaced and is now running great. My question is ... Would it behove me to install the Range device to deactivate DOD.?
Maybe, is it new enough to have the DFM system? If it's still under warranty I would leave it as is until warranty is up. After the issue shows a couple times tell them this engine is apparently junk and you want a replacement. Your tired of just replacing lifters lol
First I'd like to say thank you for the information you put out there. It is very helpful. I have a 2012 Suburban and it has developed an issue that I think is related to the lifters. It pulled the valve covers off and everything seems to be working and oiling as it should. They sounded it makes is more of a squeak than a tick or a knock. It kind of sounds like a squeak from a bad bearing with a slight tick sound. Check the bolts on the VLOM and most of them were loose. The vehicle is not showing any codes or misfires and seems to run perfect. Could that be a spun lifter?
It could be, but pull the belt off first and see if the noise is gone. It might just be a pulley or bearing on the belt system making noise.
This could be my description but I've tried to remove all belts and still get the squeeze from what seems to be the front of the cam?
I want to buy both oil pressure tools. Top forward and at the oil filter too.
Al M.
Replace the 0- ring , after sitting all day if the lifters clader at START up you lost the prime in the pick up tube , this is the first sign of a failing o-ring , also cause of low pressure, can also cause collapsed lifter during start up, replace o-ring asap
Quick question that little filter under the oil pressure sensor on the vlom if you completely remoe it all together and leave it empty can that cause a problem
I was wondering the thing. I am doing a rebuild and my sensor does not have a filter there for a 2007 escalade. Not sure if prior owner removed it caused all my problems!!
1/2 qt lucas + 2 qt ATF + Lucas engine treatment = problem solved?
I have been watching your videos after having the VLOM issues that you have covered. Thanks so much and I regret not disabling the DOD sooner. After tearing into my engine and trying the lifter release trick I had to go deeper into the engine and pull the head. Upon fixing what was bad it was all put back together again properly (disabled DOD) my pressure gets so low the dash lights up. Is this because I only disabled the DOD and didn't install the plug you sell under the sending unit (filter and sending unit changed out last year)?
Did you remove DOD/AFM mechanically camshaft and all or just change lifters? Did you shut AFM off in the tune?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I only sent the computer in for a DOD disable so that I won't have to deal with DOD issues now that I am over 200k miles. No other mechanical modification to delete the DOD. My question is, does the computer DOD disable while having the same lifters and VLOM configuration as stock have anything to do with my low oil pressure now? Do I need to pull the VLOM again and install the VLOM plug under the sending unit to get gauge pressure to go up? Your videos are so helpful!
I'm somewhat interested. I'm pretty sure my 05 4.8 needs the oil pump o ring replacement soon. It's down to 28-30psi at idle. I'm going to try the jacking up and adding 2 qts oil first and see if that helps.
When you do, get K&W/CRC 5 minute flush,run for 6-7 minutes idle only, drain it, replace the oil pump ring wiyh Fel Pro or Melling and clean the pan, windage tray, and pickup tube. Replace the oil pan gasket with Fel Pro Permadry You may consider a brand new Oil pressure sensor too, put good oil in the truck, not crap like Penzoil, Quaker, or Mobil 1.
@@shadowopsairman1583 your advice sounds good except for the oil looks like you need to do some research. I found the majority of good mechanics have no idea what they're talking about when it comes to that kind of stuff.
I thing what you are seeing is the PR valve in the pump moving back and forth to maintain oil pressure.
I actually come to believe that it is a lifter this is a video ua-cam.com/video/3piBma7QqWU/v-deo.html that I did later with a lifter tick that I am pretty sure would have looked the same on the gauge.
The oil gauge on the cluster has a buffer to show a steady reading as well as the fuel gauge. 20+ oil pressure at operation temp while idling is good!!!
@@JaMizal7 Yes the gauge has a buffer built in but the oil pressure should never really go below 30 psi on a AFM equipped engine. If the system is turned off it won't hurt the engine to be lower than 30 psi as long as it is above 10 psi.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair my 07 Yukon 5.3 at cold start is over 40psi oil pressure but when it gets to normal temp it sits around 20psi. I heard this is normal?
One other question I changed the lifters on both sides and new lifters but after putting it all back together I didn't change the oil.
Change the oil derp
Dude, a new tool to make and sell to us. I'll purchase it.
Ill buy one
I know it's been 2 years on this post but I need help! So I have an '09 Silverado with the 5.3l. The AFM went bad ~8 months ago and had a delete done, mechanical and tune. Before the truck went in my oil pressure was fine, but after I got it back is when trouble started (used a "mechanic" because I didn't have confidence/time to do myself then). Cold cranked it would be ~40 lbs but would then drop to ~20 once warmed up. Did some research and found the oil pickup tube o-ring issue. I decided to start there as well as a new pump and pressure sensor, but it took me a couple months to get money for parts. When I dropped the oil pan, I noticed the AFM pressure relief valve was still present. So I pulled intake and found the mechanic did not put the AFM tower plugs in either. I installed these plugs, AFM towers and relief valve, as well as replaced the o-ring and pump and sensor (pulled screen out all together as new one did not fit back under sensor) with all new gaskets.
At this point I thought I'd be good, but it was still having the same issue. Guess I should say that I did not have any knocking, ticking, or rattling before AFM went out or after at this point. Still having my oil pressure issue though, I decided to replace the crank and rod bearings but had to wait to get the money. Fast forward about 5 months, and my new oil pump went out, I didn't know I had to prime it. So I bought another pump, the bearings, new front and rear main seals, new timing chain, new gaskets, and my 4th sensor! Get all this done, the old bearings actually looked decent for 184k miles on the truck (no major signs of wear ie copper showing or gouges in the old bearings at all). I even got the screen in under the sensor by trimming off nobs from both ends of it. Get the motor back in the truck, yes I primed the pump this time, and cranked it up. Pressure was just over 40. I was golden, or so I thought. Let the truck sit and idle while I put front tires back on along with my brush guard. Once the truck was up to operational temps, pressure was back down at ~20. The next day, it had gotten dark, I checkeded the oil and it was low. I guess because I had the motor bottom end completely tore apart, the factory stated 6 qts was not enough with the oil cooler system getting drained as well (even from the section in the radiator). I add a 7th quart of oil and pressure on cold crank reasches ~60 then drops to ~20 still upon reaching operational temps. At this point I do not have a clue what to do.
I bought truck with ~155k miles and maintain regular maintenance, prior to me I have no idea. My choice of oil is Orielly brand full synthetic 5w-30 with basic Microgaurd filter. I have seen some say brand of filter fixed their similar issue, but could it really be that simple? If not, I came across a post about a relief valve inside the pump itself, but across 3 different pumps back to back? Please help as I like my truck and really DO NOT want to buy a new (to me) truck. I'm quite ready to just drop it over a cliff. Any help greatly appreciated.
I know is being more than year.. where you able to fix the issue??? I'm on the same boat, I have about 30psi cold, and while it warm up it slow drops pressure almost down to 0. I have the DOD delete performed and it did have 40 psi when it was done. AFM was also tuned out. No pressure sensor screen. I recently replace the O-ring thinking that was the issue, but it looks like it didn't fix it at all and stayed the same. I haven't changed the oil pump. This is for a 2011 4x4 GMC sierra 5.3 with the LC9 engine. I don't want to just throw in parts for it not to work. It has new mobil 1 oil and wix XP filter.
@justyouraverageguy4771 yes and no, I changed oil pump, cam and crank bearings, sensors and everything else I could think of. Nothing helped until I stopped using the store brand oil and oil filters as well as started running 10w-40 oil. Pressure would still drop to just over 20 when warmed up, but it stayed high enough to not trip codes in computer. Hope this helps
@@countrysoldier Thank you for responding.. I did put 10w-30 oil, but I no difference. Oil keeps dropping slowing while warming up. and reaches like 0 in the gauge...which brand f oil and which filter u started using?
@@justyouraverageguy4771 valvoline oil and k&n oil filter
I have a 2013 Tahoe with the 5.3L in it and I am running at temp about 15-18 occasional 20 psi of oil pressure at idle, I just change the oil pressure switch and screen due to a P0521 CEL, and still maintained the same pressure, old screen looked clean as hell due to the Tahoe only having 30k miles, I’m stumped local stealership can’t get get me in till 12/28/20 for diagnosis, my next route was to pull the pan and check the pickup tube o ring but at a loss on where to go from here
I have 2012 Tahoe . I get 25psi at idle. About 38 psi while driving below 2000 rpm. Is that considered normal?
@@zmanphx yeah that’s normal, my local dealership told me that it was a oil pressure switch fault, they pulled resistance on wiring and sensor itself and it was Unsat, so I bought there AcDelco switch and filter and put it in and same issue remained, so I am hoping that maybe being a AFM motor maybe being on amsoil and using there filter, that has plugged up and gone into a bypass state thus depleting my oil pressure, amsoil sent me new oil and a wix filter to try my theory I’ll update after 1/4/21 when it arrives
@kwade9138 any updates ?
@@juanguerrero2282 my bad the wix filter was the trick, I ended up having the motor gone through did some head work and dod delete cam, headers and that’s where I honestly should of started DOD/AFM is not necessary for what it “saves” in my opinion ain’t worth the hassles it causes
how long do you rune the engine with ATF before draining oil and replacing? thanks
He has a video on engine flushing with ATF. 5 or 6 qts ATF for up to 8 hours but monitoring the oil pressure for a plugged oil filter
Dark oil is the detergent package doing it's job.
Whats a detergent package
@@juniorpineda4151 what the companies put into the oil that cleans up sludge but really the dark oil is also a good sign since the dirt is suspended within the oil so when you drain the oil, it comes out with the oil.
@@paquesepas6696 oh i thought dark oil was just burnt oil
@@juniorpineda4151 eventually yeah but I mean after only a few months your oil is usually already blackened but still good
I have an 06 Silverado with a 4.8 L and it only has about 30 pounds oil pressure When hot
11 avalanche looses oil pressure over corse of 1000 miles. Can then change oil and filter and a couple days later the pressure will return back to around 45 while driving. After about 1000 miles again back down to 25 while driving. Have replaced sensor several times. Any idea where to look. Find it strange that a fresh oil change brings the oil pressure back for a bit
My 2012 gmc sierra does the exact same thing..
That's seafoam cleaner with the Lucas label
Great videos with good info,my 5.3 Silverado drops oil pressure to about 10psi a few minutes after start,also pulled oil cap and got no blow back or pressure build up with my hand covering it,could this be a bad vlom gasket?
All vehicles drop psi shortly after start up as the rpm's lower. Also oil pressure will drop as the oil warms up. What pressure is it at hot?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks for your reply,right well it drops way down to just above zero when hot,like 10 psi I guess,and the low oil pressure light comes on,but I got the oil sensor and the vlom filter changed,its holding at 45psi at idle now,just hope the damage isnt done,a collapsed lifter will give a loud tick with a misfire too right?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ok just got the driver side valve cover off and cylinder 7 lifter is collapsed I have lot of up lift on the rocker,and another question,some of the rockers on the other head have side to side play is this normal?
I'm having the same issues... Let us know what you do
The side to side movement is normal to a extent, the once you see it on are likely the valves that are closed. You should watch my latest video on collapsed lifters if you have not seen it yet. Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html
Where exactly do you connect the mechanical Guage into. I'm having a hard time finding the location. I have a 2013 chevy silverado 1500
I built a adapter for the oil cooler spot. There is also a port on driver's front of block.
I've been doing the ATF for years buy used car sludge buildup in engine I would put a quart of transmission fluid in engine even if it's overfilled it running hot high idle we're about 10 20 minutes and then drain all the oil out
Whats the ATF added for? Whats it suppose to do
Sludge and carbon cleaning
Hi..
I have silverado 2003 6.0 lq9
And i have low oil pressure on the guage and on the screen massage..
I replaced the oil pump to Melling with high volume and more pressure, new o-ring, pan cleaning, new pan gasket, new oil pressure sensor.
The pressure is still low, but the sound is very good and he drive good.
What you think it can be?
Thanks.
Have you checked pressure with a mechanical gauge yet? Might just have a bad sensor.
I WONDER IF IT'S A COMPUTER PROBLEM? LIKE THE ECU
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I’m having same issue wirh a new sensor
Often times the second cam bearing can cause oil volume loss thus pressure loss.
I know this is an old video but hopefully you still get alerts. We just bought our son a 2006 Silverado z71 5.3 v8. Our newest issue is the oil pressure. His instrument panel does need fixed I think, Nothing worked at first then we replace the oil sensor and thermostat and now those dash gauges work. His oil pressure will stay at 40 for a while driving then suddenly drop to 20. I was going to grab some ATF tomorrow to flush it, do you think that may be the issue? He put Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank should we run that in the oil right before he changes the oil? When we bought it the pipes from the cold packs back were not even connected and held on with mechanics wire. We are trying to do the work ourselves so he can learn but my dad, brother and husband are all working nights this week so I am trying to help him (and me) figure this out so the poor kid can finally drive after 3 months of sitting in the driveway, days after buying it. This truck is Nickle and diming us but I guess when you buy a truck for $3000 you get a $3000 truck. Who Knew 🤣🤣 I am unsure of where to start. Do you think instrument panel is just incorrect and I should fix that first or focus on under the hood. I appreciate any and all help
There are lots of common issues not related to oil guage. did you check screen under sensor yet? Send me a message about this at crazedperformancerepair.com and I'll get you a copy of my common oil pressure issues.
Can I run 10-30 engine oil in a 2007 Chevy suburban LS AFM flex fuel 2wheel 5.3l or synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer I ask because of the little screen in the oil pressure gauge could clogged my oil pressure fluctuates can I run a thicker oil because oil needs to get between the lifters I have disactivated AFM management
Yes thicker oil is fine. Just don't make it too thick if you live in a cold climate.
Thank you for a really good video.. I have a question maybe you have seen.
2012 Avalanche with 5.3, and #7 VIN w/120K miles. I had a lifter go bad on my #6 cylinder. At that time I had a relatively new oil sending unit and was seeing good oil pressure (40 at speed, 20 at idle). I put in all new lifters (by Elgin). I used a new updated GM VLOM # 12571609. I had the head shaved and a valve job done. Also installed a new oil sending unit. Prior to doing this I had flushed the engine 2 times trying to free up the stuck lifter. After assembly I immediately put in a Range AFM disabler (I’m not sure if the lifters have ever been engaged). Engine runs great, problem is my oil pressure slowly started dropping on the gage. I tried replacing the sending unit again and because I second guessed myself on the head gasket direction so I replaced them again (they were fine). Still same problem and continually getting worse to the point where I’m seeing 15 while driving, and near zero at stop. Interesting is I see a bit of an upswing while driving and letting off the accelerator.
At startup (cold) I’m getting 40 - 45 psi then after warm up 15 at speed and near zero at stop
I added oil and put truck on a hill to check the O ring - no improvement.
I changed the oil filter several times. I tried the PF64 as many have suggested - no improvement
I get no lifter noise regardless of the oil pressure, just alarms on the dash board.
I purchased a device that replaces the oil filter and gives a port to check the pressure - Pressure is good there! 50 at speed and 20 at idle (hot)
Any ideas? Could it just be my dash gauge but then again the computer is reading the signal off the sender not the actual gauge. Could it be the new VLOM? (I threw the old one away ) I know the screen is clean wondering if the port from the engine could as debris in the port hole below the screen. Could air bubbles be causing this? Up until I read good pressure mechanically I was planning to replace the pump.
Thanks for any advice
Pete Lines
20psi idle hot is 15-20psi low for that engine. Hit the subscribe and the bell because this weekend I am releasing a video that might be your exact issue.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks, will be looking for it! Already subscribed.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I put a manual gauge at the VLOM and still low. In fact pressure has now dropped to near zero at the VLOM. I stuck a long wire down the hole to make sure there was nothing in there. Wire goes down about 1 foot. Sprayed cleaner down the hole. Even at 2 pounds I am not getting any noise.
@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have da same problem because mines doing da same 50 at cold and 15 at idled and 0 at stop (warm) will it be lifters
@Molon Lave how did you fix your problem cause I have da same
Awesome video great info. When you do engine flush what all do you put in engine and how long do you run it?
My usual oil flush consist of draining engine and using ATF in place of all the oil then letting it idle for 4-8 hrs with the occasional check of pressure and slow rev up of engine to get the atf flowing. if the pressure starts to get to low I will replace the filter because usually that means it is plugging up the filter. then I change the oil and add new filter when I feel it has cleaned up enough. The next oil change will be 1500-2500miles depending on situation
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair letting an engine idle for 8 hours?
@@doctorfeinstone6524 yes, so the ATF can do the job gently cleaning out the engine. It seems excessive sure, but it works wonders and really helps clean them up.
4-8 hrs🔥🔥🔥👀are you sure you are mechanic
And for the other guy that ask how long should he let run read the instruction
I would drop the pan, windage tray and pickup tube to clean a serious sludge problem.
2000 Silverado 5.3 oil dropped about 10lbs in a week. Backed up a steep bank; still low pressure, so o-ring is good. Got a mechanical gauge and 3/8npt to 1/8npt adapter to put in engine block, supposedly at a drillway below alternator and behind steering pump, which you can't see.
Can't I simply make a pipe T and connect the gauge to the cooler as you did? I also saw mention of a plug by the oil cooler, but not sure which one would work.
As long as she's not throwing codes, I'm not willing to fight the sensor unit because I'm on blood thinners, and don't want to spend an hour trying to stop a cut from bleeding!
I made a adaptor to go where the oil cooler lines go that has a pipe thread in it. You can make one out of a chunk of aluminum just make sure the oil can flow across it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oh man, thanks; I was a bit Leary of feeding a gauge from the radiator after seeing only direct T fittings at the sensor, a filter port?, or a drillway behind the steering pump. You gave me an easy fourth!
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Finally, I got a galvanized 3/8" T and a close nipple. The stock fitting worked well screwing into that, and the close nipple into the radiator, but the adapter fitting from Amazon was the cxorrect thread count but no taper, so I wrapped a LOT of teflon tape plus had to put an o-ring on to get a seal.
Pressure was all over the map from an 18lb idle shooting to 40 on throttle but backing down immediately to 20. On the road pressures shot UP to 35-45psi. I did my 1st ever motor flush then new oil (and changed to high-mile syn) and Mobil filter. Now pressures are still fluctuated but are 38-55 and spikes to 60, but dash gauge is steady and showing former pressures of 40-48, problem solved, no new engine needed!
Still an 18lb idle tho.
Additionally, I find that with the feed line to the gauge being on top, traps air into the line, and may be the cause of the fluctuations- just re-oiled my differential and no time to play with gauges; one of my planetary gears looks like it went through a war!
i am having drop in oil pressure after a few minutes of driving after fixing a collapsed lifter, I am wondering if maybe this is causing a drop in oil pressure by shooting out too much oil? Is this something you have seen before?
It's rare, did you address the oil screen under the pressure sensor? Also keep in mind, low oil pressure is what causes lifters to fail in these. So most likely it was a issue before you fixed the lifter. You just didn't notice till after.
Although it did look like the fluttering of said gage slowly lessened as you add more fluid and raised the backend. Just my opinion maybe, but it looked a little less.
It was a very leaky lifter in the end.
I see a bunch of these trucks with low oil pressure at idle. They set an oil pressure sensor performance code at idle due to low oil pressure (I have seen 8psi with a mechanical gauge). I put a high pressure/high volume oil pump in them to create more pressure (bandaid, maybe). MY current ride (2007 5.3l with software DOD delete) had noisy lifters at idle before, now its been quiet for 30k and with no known engine issues. Pressure at idle is 20 on the dash gauge with a Melling 10296 oil pump. I am running it until it dies. My theory is worn cam bearings causing the drop. Not pulling the engine for that though.
I have 2 2007. Both have a low oil pressure issue. One gave me the light a few times to stop the engine. Mine was engine sludge. I few flushes and a new oil pressure filter and now I have 45+psi at idle. I did replace the lifter cover with the new design, but I haven't pulled the oil pan to install the splash guard. 150K going for 300k for this Burban. How do you guys feel about the splash guard in the oil pan?
@@PosiP I would not personally bother to install it unless you were already in it. If I were you I would install the Melling 10296 oil pump while there.
@@mph5896 I'm in it deep. I have two of them. For me, it was just dirty and a clogged oil filter that made oil pressure sending unit to send a low-pressure alarm. But is that real or is it just a clogged filter? One of the reasons for a second opinion or this new device.
Yup besides, as long as you get the 10psi per 1k rpm you will be fine.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Per factory Specs for a LMG engine:
Oil Pressure - Minimum - Hot:
1,000 RPM 152 kPa (22 psig)
2,000 RPM 207 kPa (30 psig)
3,000 RPM 228 kPa (33 psig)
Active Fuel Management Relief Valve Oil Pressure - as Measured at Oil Pressure Sensor Location:
Maximum 379 - 517 kPa (55 - 75 psig)
Awesome vid:))) I saw something on Shroders box vid addressing the quick fluctuating needle . My neighbors truck 07 4x4 5.3 147 thou miles oil pressure dropped to zero slowly. If I let sit for few hours start pressure goes to 11 at Idle at 2000 RPM will be at 40 for bout 3- 5 minutes then drop off slowly to zero. I have added half quart of diesel fuel and have started every morning and evening for the past 4 days doing the ole school flush. NO change.
Oil and filter has been changed regularly. I will try the rear end up submerging pick up tube at pump. What did you make at engine block cooler hook up to attach gauge? I'm holding off on the sending unit and screen guess..
Best; Tom
Your Screen is most likely plugged under the sender with that symptom. I made my adapter before I knew this amzn.to/2Yex5N5 was available. Basically same thing though. I don't think anyone makes one like my inline tester yet though.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ; Thanks for the fast response:)) Can I pose the question; So when oil is cold it is heavier and I would think if screen clogged I should have less or no pressure until oil warm to make it thru screen. The Oil has always been changed regular and has looked good last 3 Changes I have done. I did the rear und up test to see if o-ring area was issue. No change, same end result. Best; Tom
It would at least show more air but may still also have more pressure unless it cavitates pump. When the oil is thick it will also struggle to squeeze past bearings and lifters clearance areas thus flows much slower and takes less oil to make same pressure. When the pump has a set volume it will increase the pressure since the volume need isn't there with thick oil.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks again:)) I'll keep ya updated on the eventual repair.. Best; Tom
Does stuck lifter cause oil pressure issue as well ?
Yes it can especially if the VLOM is loose.
How long do you run atf in the oil for? Never heard of that before.
Depends on how bad it is. If the motor really needs a flush I will let it idle all day while checking the oil pressure and occasionally giving it a short slow rev up. If oil pressure starts to get low I change the oil filter and run it more.
I used to add a quart of ATF about 500 miles before my next oil change every 5th oil change.. worked great
O ring on the pickup tube gets hard
So could you run kerosene through the crank case to clean up the lifters like you did 30 years ago?
In a small amount sure but I prefer ATF
always ran atf in gasoline engines to clean them and kerosene or small amount of gas to clean a diesel motor.kerosine works there too
p.s. very small amt gas to diesel,ask someone first
atf is high detergent /10 weight oil= kero can strip off the thin layer of oil/lube bonded to surfaces.......i always stuck to trans fluid.....
@@mikeray1544 how long do you rune the engine with ATF before draining oil and replacing? thanks
Hey I have a 06 gto ls2 and I have a glow shift aftermarket gauge installed and I see that I'm getting 22PSI at idle when its really warm coolant temp 200-220 do you see this as a problem or normal?
That is likely normal. I'm pretty sure the 06 gto was never equipped with AFM. I haven't seen one yet at least. The AFM engines are the ones that needed higher oil pressure and thus came factory high volume oil pump.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks for your reply! I have also noticed a slight ticking coming from the bottom of the engine bay intermittently, it seems to go away when the engine is really hot would that typically be an exhaust leak in your experience?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair @CrazedPerformanceRepair Actually it does it when it's warm sometimes it sounds more like a clicking or light tapping that comes and goes or at least I notice it when the sound bounces off the ground doesn't seem like it's coming from the top of the engine for this reason, any insight would be greatly appreciated!
LS engines have a tendency to wear out the oil pumps because of the aluminum housing and that the oil pump turns at the same speed of the crankshaft melting makes it good high quality heavy duty high flow oil pump used to lower oil pressure spring high pressure spring too much pressure for stock engine just waste gas mileage
I have a 6.2 with low oil psi only when hot i have replaced everything from lifters high volume pump all new timing components rebuilt it from top to bottom still exact results no change at all
Any ideas that could help me out this is driving me nuts
Likely the 2nd cam bearing. I have a cam bearing replacement video you might want to check out.
Did you fix your problem?? Same issue here on 5.3 😪 new oil pump,afm lifters , vlom , pushrods, oil pan pressure relief valve, 3 cylinder not working 4 6 7 afm cylinders .. number 1 collapsed but now is working now the ones that were working are not working
Where do you connect the oil pressure gauge exactly??
I made an adapter for where the oil cooler option goes.
I fought a oil pressure issue long story short it was the valley pan gasket o rings leaking causing fluctuation.
If that was the case you must not have AFM equipped engine.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Oil can pass through either valley pan gasket but it is not a afm engine it’s a common issue on the 07 6.2 that has been a problem that many never figured out.
@@keysautorepair6038 The non afm engine with a valley pan leak shouldn't fluctuate pressure. It might drop pressure but should't fluctuate. Now if it was a leaky lifter like this one it could fluctuate.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it was doing both and that’s a fact have all the data to back it up!
Use a flashlight and a slow motion of ur phone camera to see bubbles
Can you explain that point in 19:20 about DOD Psi 27 Psi pls
www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Melling-tech-bulletin-on-GM-LS-Deactivation-Lifter-Issues-3.1.18-1.pdf
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Good information
Say, I changed out my o-ring on my pickup tube and also changed out oil sending unit with the screen. All acdelco parts. Still oil pressure dropped to zero after about a minute of idle. Any advice?
Matt Johnson,Seen a video on here where a Mexican guy had the same issue,turned out to be a bad vlom gasket
ua-cam.com/video/nfhmddqWROE/v-deo.html
But why the vlom?
It's barbell bypass on the back of the block behind the cover
Light the sight glass from the back!
Lol, you did it the second time.
My oil pressure gauge is buried to the max, over pressure and not working. Solution??
Sending unit is likely bad, I've seen that a few times now.
Why would you add atf to oil
Oil pressure relief spring
Was a lifter issue.
What is considered normal oil pressure at idle for 2012 5.3? I get about 25 psi.
35-45psi hot idle yours is low and wil lead to lifter failure.
20 to 25psi at temp at idle in drive is absolutely normal. Dod /afm doesn't require high psi at idle. Cylinder deactivation doesn't occur at idle. This video is driving me nuts!!!!
@@JerseyFrank007 AFM activates at damn near idle on many vehicles equipped when coming to a stop sign. If the video drives you nuts stop watching it... Facepalm
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair....I had to watch a bunch to verify if your thought processes are sound. Some things yes... some things no. There are certain criteria the ecm needs to meet in order for the dod process to initiate. You're flat wrong on some of it.... effectively causing alarm to some of your viewers. Not cool.
@@JerseyFrank007 then explain to me what the criteria is that the system is attempting to activate right before a stop at basically idle RPM. I have not only experienced it but also believe I show it happening at the end of one of my videos while showing what happens with the VLOM mod no tune. Since your so smart explain the oil pressure talked about here www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Melling-tech-bulletin-on-GM-LS-Deactivation-Lifter-Issues-3.1.18-1.pdf it should never drop below 27psi to be safe from failure. That is why I say 30psi. It Gives a little cushion for worn/broken down oil. I won't claim to be right all the time and have been wrong many times before. Unless you have some form of concrete proof otherwise I have to say you are 100% wrong on 20psi at idle being normal for pre 2014 AFM equipped gm v8.
I have a 2011 Silverado engine light came on code was p0521 oil Gage is working fine changed the oil pressure sensor and a day later the light came back on reading same code what else could be the problem?
What oil pressure reading are you seeing on the gauge?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it's right in between 40 and the first mark...goes up when I hit the gas to 40 and above?
@@steveallen4004 turn key on but leave engine off, what does it read then?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it's reading just a little above 0
@@steveallen4004 interested well it seems to be working fine then, what the heck? I wonder if it does something intermittent that throws the code? I'll have to try and look closer into that code if I get a moment here.
Help I'm having low oil pressure 10 psi. no warning indicator light pops up for it but I'm concerned about it I'm worried if that's too low of an oil pressure I have an 08 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2 L I did my oil pickup tube and I also did my oil sending unit and remove the intake manifold using one of your videos which was very helpful my question is is 10 psi in oil pressure or should I be worried about changing my oil pump? I hear you say in the video that 10 psi is enough and that we shouldn't have to worry because we're not running a DOD system is it true
10psi is too low on that engine. It won't harm anything as long as it goes up with RPM but it's a indicator you are loosing pressure from an issue somewhere. Considering how low it is, if you have already checked the screen under the oil pressure sensor and change oil filter. Then it might be the second cam bearing is worn out.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it does go up on RPM to about 21 PSI but that's about it it won't go any higher. When I start the engine on a cold start it's at 45 PSI the truck has a slight oil leak nothing serious 2 drips 3 drips a day. So you don't think it could be the oil pump at all???. I did the oil pressure sensor and screen, oil pick tube o ring, changed the oil filter. I'm really stumped on this.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair just watched your video on replacement of a camshaft bearing. Does a motor have to be removed to do this job I know you have to remove it to get to the last one but the other three I should be able to get to without removing the head correct?
@@phillyspeaks I believe you have to remove the heads so you can pull lifters to do it. Not positive though I've never tried. Might be possible if you lock lifters at max hight with dowels.
It can be done in vehicle with heads and lifters out though. Just not the last one of course. However, It is a lot harder than doing it with engine out though. Might just be worth pulling it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair so is 10psi to 21psi on a load bad? It does fluctuate but that's what I'm getting when the truck is warmed up.
2007 Chevy 5.3 I’m working on a dod I replaced vlom and oil pump oring 45 cold and 19 hot I’ve been working on cars for 35 years it is kick my ass if you can tell me anything I would appreciate it
Turn off the DOD,do my VLOM mod as seen at 27:17 on ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html and just run thicker oil.
Yes you should rent.
a screen does not block pressure but will block flow , sorry that is as far as i got , good luck
If you don't have adequate flow you won't achieve pressure.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair no flow for a static sensor
@@Danimal100 there's a entire oil valve system after that screen not just a sensor.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair OH , i stand corrected
Why not patent it sell to GM and send me a check nice product
These engines are a pain..lol I've done everything and still get low pressure after 5 minutes of running
where you able to find the fix?
lifters are below the heads$$$$$$
Do you have an email? I want send vedio for my car, it become in open loop in 2300RPM and thottle open 40 %
Should be at bottom of description but depending on size you may have to upload it to UA-cam as unlisted and send me the link.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Ok thanx
Yo is this for rent?
I could Rent it I suppose. I have about $230 into making it. You cover the cost as a down then when I get it back I suppose I'll refund everything except $20 plus whatever shipping cost is. PM me on my website crazedperformancerepair.com about it and we can work it out. Maybe message me a screenshot of this conversation on UA-cam.
I would like to buy one. Hit me up with a message and let me know.
Make one for me and sell it to me plz
It cost me almost $250 to make if I recall correctly. Honestly I have only used it twice since I made it. I can make one if you like u suppose. I will have to look into what it's going to cost though. Shoot me a message on my website If you are actually interested.
It makes me laugh that of all the issues I see people highlighting most of the predominantly are due to oil issue's, having said that its mostly due to extended oil change intervals, poor quality (cheap) oils or usually both, the multiplier is when they consume some oil and are constantly topped with the belief that it doesn't need hanging as often because its getting new oil regularly. Then the kicker is GM cops flack for these issues which are owner induced, the reason they put Service Soon warning based on milage and idle time etc is to try to make it idiot proof and avoid these long term issues, but so many average Joe motorists think they know better and chose to ignore this, there is NO substitute for good regular maintenance no matter how sophisticated these motors get and yet too many people are willing to roll the dice then blame GM when they have an issue, isn't it funny that mot ALLl vehicles have the problem which points to operating conditions induced, you get the guys who have 500, 000 miles on motors with no issue's, you think they just got lucky ??
you're reading to much into the fluctuation, first you should have just removed the oil pressure sending unit and screwed in your oil pressure gauge at that point.
Don't rent it. Sell it for 200$.thank you
These engines are a piece of junk
20 psi at idle is perfectly fine. Technically 5 psi per 1000 RPM. Especially high mileage engine. If you add 90 weight cold additive the pressure will go up. The fluctuation is just gauge. This whole video is bullshit. Get an experienced mechanic people. Will save money in long run.
Minimum oil pressure for AFM/DOD is 27psi per gm. So the real BS is your comment, if this was non AFM engine your comment would be relevant but these are high volume systems. Educate yourself first please.