The video is a little old so it is probably taken care of by now but for what it is worth I just fixed my 2005 Z71 5.3 Tahoe with 330,000 miles on her, I can almost guarantee that it is the oil pick up tube oil ring and it will just keep getting worse, you will start to aerate your oil and develop some lifter tick and it will just plain fail completely pretty soon so it best to tackle it now. 4x4s are kind of a pain to drop the pan but it is not too bad, but bad enough that you don't want to re-do it right way so replace your oil pump while you are there. No need for high pressure or high flow pumps, get oem or a Melling standard pump they come with the o-ring (cost is about $120.00, oil pan gasket $60.00, timing chain gasket kit $45.00), if you know what you are doing (I did not) and have the tools (I did) you can get done in a half of a day, easily over a weekend (I am Electrical Engineer not a mechanic, so what do I know). My Tahoe now runs like a brand new truck 45 psi on start and almost 60 with a light rev, it really feels like a different vehicle.
Man I been messin with a 2002 Tahoe 5.3 with 325,000 miles and what do I find not only what you encountered but a lot of sludge in pan , not to mention the failed oil pump......thanks glad I watched your video
@@pascualthedford2511 There are a lot of videos out there just do a UA-cam search on oil pickup o ring. If memory serves me I believe that A1 auto had a really good video but like I said there are a ton of videos, it is a very common issue.
I had A 2005 Silverado with 5.3.. It was the O-rings in the pickup tube.. One where the pickup tube is joined in the middle and another O-ring where it mates up to the oil pump. Both O-rings were deteriorated and allowed it to suck air. The bad part for me was it was a 4WD truck, and I had to remove the transfer case in order to remove the oil pan.. to install two $2 O-rings. Also, I switched from SAE 5W-30 to SAE 10W-40. to improve oil pressure on a engine with 200K miles. It now has 310K miles, and is still holding pressure.
I have several friends with these GM V8 engines. Try using 5 quarts of 5W30 oil and then adding 1 quart of Marvel mystery oil (or) transmission fluid at every oil change. This can help to clean the engine long term while not being so harsh as the solvent in the motor flush that was used in the video. The white lines in your oil as it was draining were metal particles, most likely worn bearings. So yes there is some wear going on in your engine but it does have a lot of miles so it is what it is.
I have a 2000 5.3 , 260,000 runs strong. The pick up tube o ring seal is the most common problem with low oil pressure on these. In your case as dirty as that oil looked. I would have went a step further and drained it after the flush and filled it up with straight kerosene and pulled ignition fuse to turn it over a little without starting the engine to circulate it thru the engine and let it set a couple days. Then turn it over again. Then drain and install new oil and filter. This would really clean the sump screen and the whole system. My oil pressure is good now. No tick at start up. 40 at start up and 30 idle warm. Try it before you tear into it. Don't be scared.
For those thst have this issue. Try pouring 1 or 2 bottles of ATP-205 in the oil. It's a seal conditioner/sweller. Fully compatible with oil so you can leave it till next oil change. In these engines the o rings get shrunken and hard over time and ATP-205 will make them as close as new.
I use the same flush for my wife’s friend. She has a Kia soul I did 1 quart of transmission fluid and one flush at the same time for 30 minutes and it was fine and it cleaned it really good. she’s a single mom. She would go over on her oil change intervals
I add marvel mystery oil to my engine, about 100 miles before every oil change since my GMC sierra what’s new. Marvel has detergent that helps keep an engine from building up sludge and deposits. It breaks down the varnish that cooks on to the metal parts in the motor. You might consider running some marvel in that engine for a few oil changes. Your truck is in great condition for 230,000 miles. Because of its good condition, it might warrant putting a remanufactured engine in it.
I had the same issue with a brand new swap engine in August of 2022, it seems these swap engines sit on the shelf for weeks or months at a time before they wind you in your driveway for installation into your vehicle, with that said my new engine sway had very low oil pressure on my initial startup but no tapping or knocking, so I changed the sending switch with zero effects, I then did an oil flush still nothing, my next step was to pull the oil pan and replace the oil pickup tube o-ring, however while I had the oil pan off I installed 10 small washers in the oil pump spring housing, please note when I pulled the oil pan the pickup tube screen was clean as a whistle, which lead me to believe my oil pump was working correctly but not producing the required oil pressure, so in stead of removing the front engine cover I simply installed 10 small washers to the oil pump spring and now my oil pressure reads 40psi at idle and 60 at throttle, I can't say with any certainty that this trick will work for you I only used this after watching several video's that showed using small washers on the low volume stock ls oil pumps will increase your oil pressure, and you should know that the high volume oil pumps come with a longer and stronger spring or with small washers, it all depends on the manufacture you purchase your high volume oil pump from, hope this helps anyone who is dealing with low oil pressure on your GM or Chevy ls engine.
@Thekidsinafrica14 Just curious what's your oil pressure at cruising highway speed let's say 70mph? Mine is a 6.2L but it's around d 39-40 psi at about 1800 rpm .253K miles.
5-10 psi at idle up to 20psi seems like a win. Like the others say check the pickup o-ring when you address the pan gasket but on old sbc the dealer only needed 8 psi at idle to not have to do warranty work
I'm "spectacle" too. Hahaha. Seems the motor flush doesn't clog anything up if you do a basic oil change after a couple hundred miles after the flush since the residue isn't going to clear out immediately after flushing. Full synthetic will keep gradually cleaning after initiial flush. I pulled the pan off my 5.3 to replace the gasket after flushing and basic oil change a week later, and no issues. Slightly raised oil pressure btw. 5 psi I believe.... Which was exactly what the truck needed. Didn't want to play games with clogging the oil pick up and it was clear after that process. Just my experience. I did it to a 302 Windsor that was sludged without another basic oil change a week later and after a couple months, lost oil pressure and threw a rod. Oil pick up was clogged. Don't be afraid of motor flush if done with good intentions. If it's really sludged, just drive it for as long as possible or take the chance and do multiple oil changes in short intervals. I also prefer using an oil stabilizer after for piece of mind with leaks and added lubrication since I don't mess with new cars. Just my experience being a shade tree mechanic and glorified parts changer. Not an actual mechanic.
Oil sending unit, including screen, and oil pump pickup oring. Probably the most common issue on these engines. Can’t imagine pulling an engine and then finding out it was just the oring lol
Yeah I figured it was the O ring but with my lift kit you have to raise the motor to pull the man and the rear Main was leaking anyway so I decided to pull it to freshen up the whole thing👍🏻
@@Krummin I'll go out on a limb and say yes the rear main seal will affect oil pressure or at least one that was leaking as bad as mine. My oil pressure sits steady at 40 after I had it fixed. $875 at a tranny shop. A standard mechanic will charge around $1600. I had a multiple misfire showing up on my scanner w the check engine light coming on. That too went away after the pressure stabalized. 230k on a LM7
If you still have issues afterwards. Then you know you done all you could and it's time to tear into it. Also I have found that changing the tiny oil filter between oil changes helps with oil pressure too. That's a tiny filter for a V8 engine. It clogs quickly.
I like a basic filter , no favorite. No extra guard or filtration. Cause some have been known to cause oil flow issues. I did a fresh oil change and a fram extra guard filter and oil wouldn't flow to the top end. Changed the filter and problem solved. No frame oil filter for me. Only basic.
Drive that ole girl, I have a 05 5.3 that I’ve had since new and the last 6 years I’ve had no oil pressure at idle, you just got to nascar drive it with both feet,When you come to a stop . My truck has 411,500 miles on it , still going! Drive it every day, it’s at just under 40psi of pressure when driving down the road. It’s like others have stated, pick up tube o ring and pick up screen clogged that will fix your problem.
Mine is an 02 Tahoe with 250k miles and it had just one quarter of the oil pressure and making a lot of lifters noise and I did replaced the O ring on the oil pump and put 3q of diesel in the engine with 3q of old oil and ran it for 10m on idle; put new high mileage oil and now sounds like a brand new engine . I was desperate because I was thinking of replacing my engine, it’s been 9k miles since and still running strong. Note : do your oil change more often. I do mine every 3500 now before this problem I did it every 5000 miles.
Im sure this is remedied now but the likely culprit is a bad oring on pickup tude and or the screen on the sensor being clogged up. At 230k miles itd be beneficial to change oil pump and timing chain as well.
My 2013 Tahoe had the same symptoms. I did a complete oil change with filter and now I have 40-45 @ 1800 RPMs. It goes down to 20-25 at idle but it increases as I drive. Will probably needf to get those o-rings done like everybody says. I used the Mobil1 full synthetic 0w-30w.
I got an Escalade ext with the 6.0 the oring is not always the fix. I put a melling high volume oil pump with a new oring and my oil pressure still goes down once it’s warm. It’s more than likely worn bearings
Why not use Amsoil motor flush, i see Amsoil Keychain or something when started your 5.3, i have 6.2 Denali same problem. I did Amsoil flush it did help ,with some heavier oil. Used 10-40 have bout 230,000 miles. Nice video
I have a 2004 Silverado 4x4 with a 5.3 that has 210,000 miles on it, I bought a few months ago and started to get a check engine light. It was for the knock sensors. So, I replaced them. Pain in the ass, you have to pull the intake manifold and the fuel injector wiring is a nightmare to remove without damage. Then I started getting a low engine oil pressure warning on my display. WTF? How are they even related? Anyway, I replaced the oil pressure sending unit (another pain in the ass) and changed the oil and filter with a factory oil filter and 10w-30 synthetic oil. It changed nothing. Plus, my instrument panel shows 40 psi oil pressure all of the time, even with the engine off. I have driven it for a few thousand miles, and it runs well, just get the annoying oil pressure warning every 15 minutes or so. Took it to a shop and he said it might be the engine management computer and the oil pressure gauge issue would require an instrument cluster replacement. Lots of money to get rid of the issue yet it runs fine. Being a diesel mechanic all my life, I told the shop, if the oil pressure was that low it would have blown up long ago. I'm just going to run it for now and put up with annoying oil pressure warning. Thanks for the video, you have a NICE truck. BTW the 5.3 has lots of hp and tows my trailer like it was nothing. :)
I have a similar issue right now on a 2007 Corolla. I had a Check Engine light triggered by the Knock Sensor and decided to replace it. My engine, which never knocked before, started knocking with the new sensor on so I swapped it again for my old one to see if my new sensor was defective. Then my engine oil pressure started getting low every 5 minutes of driving... In my case, when the pressure goes down, it makes a noise in the engine bay which forces me to stop the car and restart it. Upon restart, the oil pressure error and the noise usually both go away for another couple of minutes...
I just did the same thing brand new melling high volume high pressure pump new oring and new pickup tube yet I’m still getting very low like 5-7 pressure at idle with lots of noise. I’m at a loss unless passages are clogged in the block. Also replaced the pressure sensor.
@@stevenhopson5916 The camshaft thrust plate is something I replaced also. It was a $30 part. I read a couple people changed all you mentioned and still had low oil pressure and it ended up being the thrust plate. Also it could be the cam bearings.
Lol. I just did this a week ago. Set up to do the pickup tube and o-ring and wasn't able to do it after just having back surgery. So I was like fk it, (had that exact bottle that I never used) started it up after that and running at close to 40 and 60 accelerating. So grateful that it worked. I'm sold on that way of cleaning it out... definitely worth the try.
Forgot to mention, I went back to the factory oil filter (ac Delco) and changed oil sending unit twice just to make sure. Now that I think back, I started getting low oil issues with the wix oil filter. Could have been the issue or just a coincidence. Idk
O ring/pickup tube/oil pump..Fel Pro with red grease lube...Save your money for the next 5.3 build to teach GM's big mistake on this design flaw..No Motor Medic from Dollar Store......
How does it look like i have same problem on a 2005 ford f150 its saying it has low oil pressure changed the Camshaft sensors camshaft soneloids And oil pressure sensor and nothing its on same thing nothing of that has worked!?😢
Is a motor flush a bad idea, no it helps remove harmful varnishes and other gunk, i personally us atf fluid to flush mine, will it help clear up a slight ticking if you have noise, yes it can, can it fix a problem with low oil pressure or burning oil, for the most part no, if you have low oil pressure or burning oil youll have parts that need replaced, in this case most likely an oil pump and a few gaskets
I have 2010 about 2 years ago my gauge did the same thing.removed oil screen .now have 45 to50 lb no problem now. Oil change 3 to 4000 mi. Has 245.00 miles . I just put too copper tires on front today.
If you use the flush and the bearings are War you're going to remove all the crud around the main bearings and you will have worse oil pressure is some of the crowd around your bearings to help keep up your oil pressure if your oil pressure is that low then you have other problems you need to diagnose what the problem is and fix it the right way the pickup tube o-ring would be a likely possibility a leaky or bad oil pressure switch be leaking oil also check for exterior leaks putting the flush in your vehicle will probably cause your oil pressure to go down more especially with a motor that has a lot of miles on it for example a vehicle that has 108,000 miles the bearings are worn putting flesh in your vehicle will make your oil pressure drop even more
But did you changed the oil pump as well?? I have the same issue but I'm thinking of replacing the whole oil pump while at it . that's what mechanic told me
There's two types of motor flushes... Solvents (diesel, rubbing alcohol, ect) And Detergents ( lab made chemicals specifically designed to do one job and one job only, flush the sludge and revive/unharm seals) Your flush is the crappy solvent
My 04 has this same problem and it pisses me off because there is no good reason why they did the oil pickup with a o ring instead of two machine surfaces
Ok so I have a 2000 Z71 with the 5.3 188000 miles same problem as yours my mechanic dropped the pan cleaned it out because he said it was full of crud and I have owned this truck since new and also always run full synthetic replaced the pickup tube the o ring to it plus another o ring don't remember what it was called and replaced a screen on the sending unit my pressure was at 20 just like yours now after all this I'm back at 40 at idle and on acceleration back up to 55 60 psi more than likely yours needs the same thing
I have experienced the synthetic oils build up a plastic like crud and for this reason I will not use synthetic. Standard oil only for me. I don't agree with buying higher prices oil that's supposed to be better but actually can build up worse than conventional and cause problems. Not telling anyone what to do , run what you believe in. The proof is in the pudding to me. Seeing is believing. Don't believe all the bs they represent products to be.
Do you have the 5.3? What filter do you use? I have found cheap filters cause the oil pressure to be lower.. thinking of starting to use WIX or Napa. Thanks!
I have a 07 new body style Chevrolet Silverado four-wheel drive with a 6.0 LTZ 220,000 Mi and I put three oil pressure sensors in in the last 2 months my gauge doesn't work gauge doesn't work and truck is wanting to cut off on me after it gets warm anybody have any ideas what it might be
I love it. I’ve had it for about 7 years and never had any issues. I put a k&n washable filter on it and saved a lot of money. Installed 2 k&ns on my dads Silverado and the quality is just as good!
@@harleystillwell7519 that’s good to know! They are half the cost of the K&N intakes, but I think K&N charges a lot because they know some people are going to pay it regardless. I think I will look into an AF Dynamic intake and then eventually get a K&N or Airaid replacement filter for it. Thank you!
buy this Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush - 500 Milliliters , 3-4 bottle and by cheap walmart oil 5w-30 and flush it 3 times, and drop the pan to check
@@harleystillwell7519 dang I had the same issue with my oil pressure starting off okay then oil pressure starts dropping to zero then I had to drop the front axle and was able to fix it. O ring just fell apart when I get to it
Well your first problem is the oil you’re using… valvoline is absolute trash!.. put some castrol edge or Pennzoil ultra platinum in there.. your truck will thank u 🙏
I replaced oil pump to a high-volume oil pump I replaced pickup tube check my cam bearings when I had oil pan off everything look good I replace oil pressure sensor screen the gauge in the truck would have 50 lb of oil pressure cold start idle around 23 lbs warmed up to 210 running temperature 39 lb of oil pressure running down the freeway step on it really hard let it go back down to speed limit engage with slowly descend to zero put an external gauge on the prime hole on the side of the block where your oil pump is cold start had 80 lb of oil pressure warmed up to 210 had 59 lb of oil pressure but the gauge inside the car was saying I still had low oil pressure doesn't make any sense now I need to check the oil pressure at the oil pressure sensor but that is really hard to get to to hook up an external gauge my next step is going to be checking the oil pressure off of my oil cooler line I will have to tap into that and put an external Gage just to see if my oil pressure changes.
Did you know the monkeys that designed and engineered that abomination of a 5.3 liter engine. Each generation GM tries to make the worse engine/truck combination. My 2007 Tahoe has 315k and I never knew who or when the oil changes were done. I now have the low oil pressure warning. I think it was the two containers or bar stop leak, pint of STP and pint of AT 205 I put in it a week ago. I two will fill oil reservoir with motor flush and gamble.
The video is a little old so it is probably taken care of by now but for what it is worth I just fixed my 2005 Z71 5.3 Tahoe with 330,000 miles on her, I can almost guarantee that it is the oil pick up tube oil ring and it will just keep getting worse, you will start to aerate your oil and develop some lifter tick and it will just plain fail completely pretty soon so it best to tackle it now. 4x4s are kind of a pain to drop the pan but it is not too bad, but bad enough that you don't want to re-do it right way so replace your oil pump while you are there. No need for high pressure or high flow pumps, get oem or a Melling standard pump they come with the o-ring (cost is about $120.00, oil pan gasket $60.00, timing chain gasket kit $45.00), if you know what you are doing (I did not) and have the tools (I did) you can get done in a half of a day, easily over a weekend (I am Electrical Engineer not a mechanic, so what do I know). My Tahoe now runs like a brand new truck 45 psi on start and almost 60 with a light rev, it really feels like a different vehicle.
Man I been messin with a 2002 Tahoe 5.3 with 325,000 miles and what do I find not only what you encountered but a lot of sludge in pan , not to mention the failed oil pump......thanks glad I watched your video
Thanks for this, any videos you found helpful in replacing those? I have lifter tick now and it’s annoying
@@pascualthedford2511 There are a lot of videos out there just do a UA-cam search on oil pickup o ring. If memory serves me I believe that A1 auto had a really good video but like I said there are a ton of videos, it is a very common issue.
I have a 2012 Sierra and agree with mrkattm.
ua-cam.com/video/JPPOBQWJ6Fc/v-deo.htmlsi=xJsENcC7Gphe2nIP
I had A 2005 Silverado with 5.3.. It was the O-rings in the pickup tube.. One where the pickup tube is joined in the middle and another O-ring where it mates up to the oil pump. Both O-rings were deteriorated and allowed it to suck air. The bad part for me was it was a 4WD truck, and I had to remove the transfer case in order to remove the oil pan.. to install two $2 O-rings. Also, I switched from SAE 5W-30 to SAE 10W-40. to improve oil pressure on a engine with 200K miles. It now has 310K miles, and is still holding pressure.
I have several friends with these GM V8 engines. Try using 5 quarts of 5W30 oil and then adding 1 quart of Marvel mystery oil (or) transmission fluid at every oil change. This can help to clean the engine long term while not being so harsh as the solvent in the motor flush that was used in the video. The white lines in your oil as it was draining were metal particles, most likely worn bearings. So yes there is some wear going on in your engine but it does have a lot of miles so it is what it is.
upf48r filter per TSB + 1 qrt lucas high mileage.
I have a 2000 5.3 , 260,000 runs strong. The pick up tube o ring seal is the most common problem with low oil pressure on these. In your case as dirty as that oil looked. I would have went a step further and drained it after the flush and filled it up with straight kerosene and pulled ignition fuse to turn it over a little without starting the engine to circulate it thru the engine and let it set a couple days. Then turn it over again. Then drain and install new oil and filter. This would really clean the sump screen and the whole system. My oil pressure is good now. No tick at start up. 40 at start up and 30 idle warm. Try it before you tear into it. Don't be scared.
For those thst have this issue. Try pouring 1 or 2 bottles of ATP-205 in the oil. It's a seal conditioner/sweller. Fully compatible with oil so you can leave it till next oil change. In these engines the o rings get shrunken and hard over time and ATP-205 will make them as close as new.
I use the same flush for my wife’s friend. She has a Kia soul I did 1 quart of transmission fluid and one flush at the same time for 30 minutes and it was fine and it cleaned it really good. she’s a single mom. She would go over on her oil change intervals
I add marvel mystery oil to my engine, about 100 miles before every oil change since my GMC sierra what’s new. Marvel has detergent that helps keep an engine from building up sludge and deposits. It breaks down the varnish that cooks on to the metal parts in the motor. You might consider running some marvel in that engine for a few oil changes. Your truck is in great condition for 230,000 miles. Because of its good condition, it might warrant putting a remanufactured engine in it.
I had the same issue with a brand new swap engine in August of 2022, it seems these swap engines sit on the shelf for weeks or months at a time before they wind you in your driveway for installation into your vehicle, with that said my new engine sway had very low oil pressure on my initial startup but no tapping or knocking, so I changed the sending switch with zero effects, I then did an oil flush still nothing, my next step was to pull the oil pan and replace the oil pickup tube o-ring, however while I had the oil pan off I installed 10 small washers in the oil pump spring housing, please note when I pulled the oil pan the pickup tube screen was clean as a whistle, which lead me to believe my oil pump was working correctly but not producing the required oil pressure, so in stead of removing the front engine cover I simply installed 10 small washers to the oil pump spring and now my oil pressure reads 40psi at idle and 60 at throttle, I can't say with any certainty that this trick will work for you I only used this after watching several video's that showed using small washers on the low volume stock ls oil pumps will increase your oil pressure, and you should know that the high volume oil pumps come with a longer and stronger spring or with small washers, it all depends on the manufacture you purchase your high volume oil pump from, hope this helps anyone who is dealing with low oil pressure on your GM or Chevy ls engine.
It’s your o-ring bud goes from pickup tube to oil pump
Yep had same issue was cracked suckin air
Not always the oring. I changed my oring and got a melling high volume oil pump and it still goes down once it’s warm.
@@Thekidsinafrica14 same. I’m thinking it’s got a cam Bearing spun at this point
Or oil pressure relief valve in the pump.
@Thekidsinafrica14 Just curious what's your oil pressure at cruising highway speed let's say 70mph? Mine is a 6.2L but it's around d 39-40 psi at about 1800 rpm .253K miles.
5-10 psi at idle up to 20psi seems like a win. Like the others say check the pickup o-ring when you address the pan gasket but on old sbc the dealer only needed 8 psi at idle to not have to do warranty work
I'm "spectacle" too. Hahaha. Seems the motor flush doesn't clog anything up if you do a basic oil change after a couple hundred miles after the flush since the residue isn't going to clear out immediately after flushing. Full synthetic will keep gradually cleaning after initiial flush. I pulled the pan off my 5.3 to replace the gasket after flushing and basic oil change a week later, and no issues. Slightly raised oil pressure btw. 5 psi I believe.... Which was exactly what the truck needed. Didn't want to play games with clogging the oil pick up and it was clear after that process. Just my experience. I did it to a 302 Windsor that was sludged without another basic oil change a week later and after a couple months, lost oil pressure and threw a rod. Oil pick up was clogged. Don't be afraid of motor flush if done with good intentions. If it's really sludged, just drive it for as long as possible or take the chance and do multiple oil changes in short intervals. I also prefer using an oil stabilizer after for piece of mind with leaks and added lubrication since I don't mess with new cars. Just my experience being a shade tree mechanic and glorified parts changer. Not an actual mechanic.
Did you change the screen under the Pressure Sensor? Yeah and pull the pan and change the O ring on the pickup tube.
Yeah did everything
Oil sending unit, including screen, and oil pump pickup oring. Probably the most common issue on these engines. Can’t imagine pulling an engine and then finding out it was just the oring lol
Yeah I figured it was the O ring but with my lift kit you have to raise the motor to pull the man and the rear Main was leaking anyway so I decided to pull it to freshen up the whole thing👍🏻
On my LS3 the oil pressure drops to 13-15 psi when the oil temperature is 245F and above. I don't know if it should be like this or not.
@@harleystillwell7519I'm curious if the rear main is an issue with oil pressure. I just replaced the ring on my '04 Silverado, no fix
@@Krummin I'll go out on a limb and say yes the rear main seal will affect oil pressure or at least one that was leaking as bad as mine. My oil pressure sits steady at 40 after I had it fixed. $875 at a tranny shop. A standard mechanic will charge around $1600. I had a multiple misfire showing up on my scanner w the check engine light coming on. That too went away after the pressure stabalized. 230k on a LM7
If you still have issues afterwards. Then you know you done all you could and it's time to tear into it. Also I have found that changing the tiny oil filter between oil changes helps with oil pressure too. That's a tiny filter for a V8 engine. It clogs quickly.
Thank you sir but already fixed it up and she’s running great
@@harleystillwell7519 Was it the pick up tube o ring?
Do you have a favorite filter you like to use? Thanks
I like a basic filter , no favorite. No extra guard or filtration. Cause some have been known to cause oil flow issues. I did a fresh oil change and a fram extra guard filter and oil wouldn't flow to the top end. Changed the filter and problem solved. No frame oil filter for me. Only basic.
@@harleystillwell7519what turned out to be wrong with it, im having the same issue with a 6.0
Drive that ole girl, I have a 05 5.3 that I’ve had since new and the last 6 years I’ve had no oil pressure at idle, you just got to nascar drive it with both feet,When you come to a stop . My truck has 411,500 miles on it , still going! Drive it every day, it’s at just under 40psi of pressure when driving down the road. It’s like others have stated, pick up tube o ring and pick up screen clogged that will fix your problem.
Mine is an 02 Tahoe with 250k miles and it had just one quarter of the oil pressure and making a lot of lifters noise and I did replaced the O ring on the oil pump and put 3q of diesel in the engine with 3q of old oil and ran it for 10m on idle; put new high mileage oil and now sounds like a brand new engine . I was desperate because I was thinking of replacing my engine, it’s been 9k miles since and still running strong. Note : do your oil change more often. I do mine every 3500 now before this problem I did it every 5000 miles.
Im sure this is remedied now but the likely culprit is a bad oring on pickup tude and or the screen on the sensor being clogged up. At 230k miles itd be beneficial to change oil pump and timing chain as well.
My 2013 Tahoe had the same symptoms. I did a complete oil change with filter and now I have 40-45 @ 1800 RPMs. It goes down to 20-25 at idle but it increases as I drive. Will probably needf to get those o-rings done like everybody says. I used the Mobil1 full synthetic 0w-30w.
I got an Escalade ext with the 6.0 the oring is not always the fix. I put a melling high volume oil pump with a new oring and my oil pressure still goes down once it’s warm. It’s more than likely worn bearings
I did the same exact thing with my 06 Yukon Denali and I’m having the same problem and I have lifter tick
Why not use Amsoil motor flush, i see Amsoil Keychain or something when started your 5.3, i have 6.2 Denali same problem. I did Amsoil flush it did help ,with some heavier oil. Used 10-40 have bout 230,000 miles. Nice video
I have a 2004 Silverado 4x4 with a 5.3 that has 210,000 miles on it, I bought a few months ago and started to get a check engine light. It was for the knock sensors. So, I replaced them. Pain in the ass, you have to pull the intake manifold and the fuel injector wiring is a nightmare to remove without damage. Then I started getting a low engine oil pressure warning on my display. WTF? How are they even related? Anyway, I replaced the oil pressure sending unit (another pain in the ass) and changed the oil and filter with a factory oil filter and 10w-30 synthetic oil. It changed nothing. Plus, my instrument panel shows 40 psi oil pressure all of the time, even with the engine off. I have driven it for a few thousand miles, and it runs well, just get the annoying oil pressure warning every 15 minutes or so. Took it to a shop and he said it might be the engine management computer and the oil pressure gauge issue would require an instrument cluster replacement. Lots of money to get rid of the issue yet it runs fine. Being a diesel mechanic all my life, I told the shop, if the oil pressure was that low it would have blown up long ago. I'm just going to run it for now and put up with annoying oil pressure warning. Thanks for the video, you have a NICE truck. BTW the 5.3 has lots of hp and tows my trailer like it was nothing. :)
I have a similar issue right now on a 2007 Corolla. I had a Check Engine light triggered by the Knock Sensor and decided to replace it. My engine, which never knocked before, started knocking with the new sensor on so I swapped it again for my old one to see if my new sensor was defective. Then my engine oil pressure started getting low every 5 minutes of driving... In my case, when the pressure goes down, it makes a noise in the engine bay which forces me to stop the car and restart it. Upon restart, the oil pressure error and the noise usually both go away for another couple of minutes...
Just had the same problem, new high volume oil pump and obviously the new o-ring. Now I’m over 60 psi on throttle and over 40 at idle.
I just did the same thing brand new melling high volume high pressure pump new oring and new pickup tube yet I’m still getting very low like 5-7 pressure at idle with lots of noise. I’m at a loss unless passages are clogged in the block. Also replaced the pressure sensor.
@@stevenhopson5916
The camshaft thrust plate is something I replaced also. It was a $30 part. I read a couple people changed all you mentioned and still had low oil pressure and it ended up being the thrust plate. Also it could be the cam bearings.
Make sure you use the ac delco or fram motor oil filter .
I changed my oil pressure sensor, filter and Oil pump. PSI lives at around 18 to 20 psi.
the white grey streaks are likely to be bearing material.
It’s the oil pickup tube oring they eventually split causing a drop in pressure just drop the pan and change it out.
Correct
try 10W 30 helps with oil pressure.
Faulty Delco filters can be the problem. Use Mobil 1 or Wix
Had the same problem did oil pump kit I did a high pressure pump I’m 45-50 at warm idle
Lol. I just did this a week ago. Set up to do the pickup tube and o-ring and wasn't able to do it after just having back surgery. So I was like fk it, (had that exact bottle that I never used) started it up after that and running at close to 40 and 60 accelerating. So grateful that it worked. I'm sold on that way of cleaning it out... definitely worth the try.
Forgot to mention, I went back to the factory oil filter (ac Delco) and changed oil sending unit twice just to make sure.
Now that I think back, I started getting low oil issues with the wix oil filter. Could have been the issue or just a coincidence. Idk
It is almost always oil pump pick up tube O ring.
Correct that’s what it was👍🏻
@@harleystillwell7519 mine too!
Did you change oil pump as well??
@@joaquingarcia363 I did a lot of work to the motor so when I upgraded the camshaft I did a high volume oil pump
Marvel mystery oil help mines a whole lot I had thick mud like sludge coming out mines had a hard knock put this stuff in and worked perfectly
I have that problem too. Found that i have some sludge on my engine. Idk about flushing it is a 280k 2005 chevy silverado 5.3 LT.
I would replace the oil pump and rod bearings . I have did a few cars and instant oil pressure .🎉
Change the oil galley as well plus the oil ring
O ring/pickup tube/oil pump..Fel Pro with red grease lube...Save your money for the next 5.3 build to teach GM's big mistake on this design flaw..No Motor Medic from Dollar Store......
It’s definitely the pickup tube oring I’ve fixed it on quite a few of these
Yep it was
How does it look like i have same problem on a 2005 ford f150 its saying it has low oil pressure changed the
Camshaft sensors camshaft soneloids
And oil pressure sensor and nothing its on same thing nothing of that has worked!?😢
Change your oil pressure sensor to see if thats just going out or clogged up.
He changed it.. he said that right in the beginning of the video.
That was supposed to say Is sea foam
Please stop trusting the cluster gauge. Hook a scan tool up to know for sure what your psi actually is!
Is a motor flush a bad idea, no it helps remove harmful varnishes and other gunk, i personally us atf fluid to flush mine, will it help clear up a slight ticking if you have noise, yes it can, can it fix a problem with low oil pressure or burning oil, for the most part no, if you have low oil pressure or burning oil youll have parts that need replaced, in this case most likely an oil pump and a few gaskets
i got 311000 on mine. still good oil pressure
On my LS3 the oil pressure drops to 13-15 psi when the oil temperature is 245F and above. I don't know if it should be like this or not.
I’m sorry I don’t know either but that’s not super low, especially at that temp I think that’s okay
I have 2010 about 2 years ago my gauge did the same thing.removed oil screen .now have 45 to50 lb no problem now. Oil change 3 to 4000 mi. Has 245.00 miles . I just put too copper tires on front today.
On my fourth set of tires.
If you use the flush and the bearings are War you're going to remove all the crud around the main bearings and you will have worse oil pressure is some of the crowd around your bearings to help keep up your oil pressure if your oil pressure is that low then you have other problems you need to diagnose what the problem is and fix it the right way the pickup tube o-ring would be a likely possibility a leaky or bad oil pressure switch be leaking oil also check for exterior leaks putting the flush in your vehicle will probably cause your oil pressure to go down more especially with a motor that has a lot of miles on it for example a vehicle that has 108,000 miles the bearings are worn putting flesh in your vehicle will make your oil pressure drop even more
25 psi oil pressure is the minimum, 65 psi is the maximum.
you have to cut the oil filter to check for metal.
I opened up a 5.3, i cound't believe the slug in the motor. I would flush it again... At least a gallon of slug/grease.
My 6.0 has 280k and I just 😊it diesel 15-40 in it and gained 10 psi while drive idle site at 40 instead of 30 lol
It's an old engine.... Put thicker oil in it
How thick do you recommend
I run q
10-40 in mine, just be careful because they have a roller cam@@oliveroflores1599
Same problem on my 13 silverado 5.3. new oil pickup and new seal ring on pickup tube problem solved back at 40psi. my 5.3 has 234k
Yep solved mine too!
But did you changed the oil pump as well?? I have the same issue but I'm thinking of replacing the whole oil pump while at it . that's what mechanic told me
I've changed the sender, sender screen, O-ring, and the oil pump!!! Still very low pressure.. This is my last idea, although I hate to flush anything.
All that and it’s still low? How many miles?? That’s crazy
Flushed it.. Didn't help :(@@harleystillwell7519
200k getting a mechanical tester today to verify@@harleystillwell7519
@@harleystillwell7519I’m having this issue with 150k only 🫣
I wonder about the quality of the oil.
Why did you let it get it get so dirty. Drop pan put o ring in drop tube. No correct to misuse
Like others have said. It's probably the O-ring on the pickup tube
It was👍🏻
There's two types of motor flushes...
Solvents (diesel, rubbing alcohol, ect)
And Detergents ( lab made chemicals specifically designed to do one job and one job only, flush the sludge and revive/unharm seals)
Your flush is the crappy solvent
What is your product of choice?
My 04 has this same problem and it pisses me off because there is no good reason why they did the oil pickup with a o ring instead of two machine surfaces
Agreed with that. So dumb
@@harleystillwell7519was this what solved the issue?
No gauge swipe on koeo ? Is that normal ?
Ok so I have a 2000 Z71 with the 5.3
188000 miles same problem as yours my mechanic dropped the pan cleaned it out because he said it was full of crud and I have owned this truck since new and also always run full synthetic replaced the pickup tube the o ring to it plus another o ring don't remember what it was called and replaced a screen on the sending unit my pressure was at 20 just like yours now after all this I'm back at 40 at idle and on acceleration back up to 55 60 psi more than likely yours needs the same thing
I have experienced the synthetic oils build up a plastic like crud and for this reason I will not use synthetic. Standard oil only for me. I don't agree with buying higher prices oil that's supposed to be better but actually can build up worse than conventional and cause problems. Not telling anyone what to do , run what you believe in. The proof is in the pudding to me. Seeing is believing. Don't believe all the bs they represent products to be.
That's A Nice truck, Anyways Mines Doing The Same Exact Thing At Idle BUT Once I Drive it, It Doesn't do it Anymore..
Mine has 300k. I run 10w40 Valvoline maxlife and it has 40 at idle and gets higher with rpm
Do you have the 5.3? What filter do you use? I have found cheap filters cause the oil pressure to be lower.. thinking of starting to use WIX or Napa. Thanks!
@@RickMandanga-cm6ph I have a 4.8 and only use the acdelco filter pf46e
that oil looks insane, I'd fill with regular oil run it like 100 miles and drain it again
I’m having the same problem but my engine only has 1800 miles on it…
That’s brand new🤦🏼♂️
I have a 07 new body style Chevrolet Silverado four-wheel drive with a 6.0 LTZ 220,000 Mi and I put three oil pressure sensors in in the last 2 months my gauge doesn't work gauge doesn't work and truck is wanting to cut off on me after it gets warm anybody have any ideas what it might be
How do you like the AF Dynamics intake? I’ve seen them on Amazon and didn’t know how good they are.
I love it. I’ve had it for about 7 years and never had any issues. I put a k&n washable filter on it and saved a lot of money. Installed 2 k&ns on my dads Silverado and the quality is just as good!
@@harleystillwell7519 that’s good to know! They are half the cost of the K&N intakes, but I think K&N charges a lot because they know some people are going to pay it regardless.
I think I will look into an AF Dynamic intake and then eventually get a K&N or Airaid replacement filter for it.
Thank you!
@@bdtaylor1979 absolutely! I would definitely go that route👍🏻
@@harleystillwell7519 I appreciate it!
buy this Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush - 500 Milliliters , 3-4 bottle and by cheap walmart oil 5w-30 and flush it 3 times, and drop the pan to check
Bro that's a beautiful truck whatever it is just fix it I have one it does not die
i had the same issue changed my oil fixed my issue
They say ur suppose to let it run 10 min then drain and add clean oil again
Drop your oil pan and drop the pickup tube change the o ring then install it all back.
Can’t drop the pan with a lift kit on these. Sucks
@@harleystillwell7519 dang I had the same issue with my oil pressure starting off okay then oil pressure starts dropping to zero then I had to drop the front axle and was able to fix it. O ring just fell apart when I get to it
@@harleystillwell7519 but it looks like you got it fixed after your engine rebuild 👍
@@harleystillwell7519 but it looks like you got it fixed after your engine rebuild 👍
Running at 40 lbs is ok
You must flush the engine twice in a row, running the engine for at least 15 minutes each time.
that is not a real oil pressure sensor on the chevy , you should find the oil sensor and replace it and or put a real oil sensor that uses pressure
I heard using c phone and your oil changes helps out a lot to a cleaning out the engine
C phone or seafoam? 🤣🤣🤣
Maybe use seafoam instead of motor flush.
Good video 👍🏼
My truck is doing the same exact thing
Replace oil pressure sensor then O ring on the pump and you’ll be good!
@@harleystillwell7519 done and done and nothing same symptoms
@@harleystillwell7519how do you check a oil pressure to see if its working
Thats a sexy pickup
Thank you!
I have the same problem
It looks like i seen silver bearing material or cam wear
Well your first problem is the oil you’re using… valvoline is absolute trash!.. put some castrol edge or Pennzoil ultra platinum in there.. your truck will thank u 🙏
Just move to 10w-40 amsoil and call it a day.
replace your main bearing.
Change the filter. Seems simple but that’s all it is.
Go 10w-40 or 50
DAWG, THAT COLOR IS CLEAN. Hope you get it all squared away
Thanks man! Yep she’s all good to go now with a fat cam and 50 psi🤘🏼🤘🏼
@@harleystillwell7519was it the cam
What was the fix?@@harleystillwell7519
Anybody with a Hoonigan sticker probably explains the problem. 😂😂😂
Do you want to sell those ltz wheels I seen against the wall
Sadly I sold them last winter
It's your oil pump...it's bypassing
By bypassing do you mean it’s getting by the O-ring?
Update?
It was just the O ring on the pick up tube. Now it’s got a cam and fun stuff haha
Did you ever figure this out?
After taking the motor apart I found the O ring on my oil pick up tube was flattened out and needed replaced. Very common on these
@@harleystillwell7519 all Gm engines
It's scary to run a flush on these engines since the oil ports are so small and can clog easy.
It’s kerosene.
change oil every 3000 to 4000 miles never go beyond that.
I replaced oil pump to a high-volume oil pump I replaced pickup tube check my cam bearings when I had oil pan off everything look good I replace oil pressure sensor screen the gauge in the truck would have 50 lb of oil pressure cold start idle around 23 lbs warmed up to 210 running temperature 39 lb of oil pressure running down the freeway step on it really hard let it go back down to speed limit engage with slowly descend to zero put an external gauge on the prime hole on the side of the block where your oil pump is cold start had 80 lb of oil pressure warmed up to 210 had 59 lb of oil pressure but the gauge inside the car was saying I still had low oil pressure doesn't make any sense now I need to check the oil pressure at the oil pressure sensor but that is really hard to get to to hook up an external gauge my next step is going to be checking the oil pressure off of my oil cooler line I will have to tap into that and put an external Gage just to see if my oil pressure changes.
Bearing material bro
Spun main bearing...now all the bearings are shot. I could see the bearing shards on your catch pan
So Everyone Gunna Juss View Vid n Act Like Dey Don't 🫣See Dose Big Azz Silver Shiney Shavings In Hiz Catch Pan🤦🏿♂️
Are there any symptoms to know if you spun a bearing
Did you know the monkeys that designed and engineered that abomination of a 5.3 liter engine. Each generation GM tries to make the worse engine/truck combination. My 2007 Tahoe has 315k and I never knew who or when the oil changes were done. I now have the low oil pressure warning. I think it was the two containers or bar stop leak, pint of STP and pint of AT 205 I put in it a week ago. I two will fill oil reservoir with motor flush and gamble.
Take oil screen out
I have the same problem just changed my o ring on the pickup tube didn't help. FUCKING POS GM
oil is cheap engines are not
burnt oil contains a lot of metal