The seal doesn’t have to be broken for it to suck in air that causes low oil pressure if the seal is flatter on the edges and feels hard it’s most likely the seal anyways. I don’t think you did anything wrong it’s a common problem for the engines.
@@tonychavez6686 it seems like it has fixed the problem, as it has been several months since I filmed this video and I have not had the low oil pressure condition again.
@@BadHombreGarage you should pin this or a similar comment to the top of the comments. i came back to the video to say the samething, if the Oring is square and stayed in the pump its still likely the Oring. Pinning this comment would help people that come here looking for answers.
I have 50 years as a mechanic both automotive and heavy equipment. Today watching your video, I learned it is possible to spend the day banging my head into the undercarriage and knuckles into sharp steel then crawl out smiling. Good job. I don't know if you are a father, but you should be. Most people I know would have kicked and cussed the truck then fixed it with a for sale sign.
Your right my 3500 dump truck has been a lemon 🍋. New engine new tranny new steering column signal light out be starter dump doesn’t lower. Now the oil pressure is low. I’m headed to lowes for the “for sale sign
@@sancasmiadas1 I wasn't trying to say it's a lemon just that most people would drive it as is or dump some heavy oil in it. I think it's called too lazy to care. Anyway you have some nice hot rods.
Yeah you are right Jeff they just get rid of there car 🚙 hey I also have the same problem with my 2003 gmc Yukon Denali oil pressure drops still I replaced oil pump the pick up tip or ring and add a new oil and new filter and it still does the same thing. It also has a new oil pressure sending unit can’t figure it out yet. The funny thing about it is that the truck runs smooth even though the oil drops all the way to zero there’s no knocking and it doesn’t shut off still wondering What the problem is
good stuff. 2006 GMC 6.0 @ 280K miles. I had a low oil pressure issue at start up and when warm, and a tick... several shops wanted to pull the heads and were telling me it was a failed lifter. several indicated it was oil pump failure. i chased it for a year, and finally figured out it was this simple o-ring, problem solved. I wish more people knew about about this issue. the forums are full of people chasing this ticking/low pressure issue and this o-ring is often the problem.
I have same truck same miles always ran good on 40lbs one day it started dropping an within 2 or 3 days it was at 20 went to go somewhere and it went to 18 or 19 an the oil light came on so I decided to take it to a shop he told me they are notorious for clogged pickup tubes an he said he's fixed many with a special chemical drains the oil an pumps it into the oil pan let's it sit for 3 days to eat all the gunk up lol well took him 6 months to do that and it didn't work tells me it needs a oil pump 1200$ I was mad not about the price because how he told me he would do it half ass as it gets didn't drop the oil pan at all an slammed the new high velocity pump in and calls me this morning its fixed I got it done I payed him 1200 and said thanks very much hopped in my truck an it had the same 19 to 20lbs of oil pressure he even told me the o ring was fine im kicking my teeth out right this second
I had the same issue with my 2007 Tahoe. I replaced both the o-ring, oil pressure sensor and the screen under the oil pressure sensor only to have the issue persist! I finally FIXED the issue by pouring 1 quart of "Motor Medic" motor flush in the engine oil fill tube as directed. I followed the instructions on the bottle and BINGO! My oil pressure consistently holds great pressure even after long road trips (6hrs). I was super skeptical about any snake oil gimmicks, but it works! $13 dollar fix. Make sure to perform the flush with a cold engine, then change the oil/filter directly after the flush!
I was watching another video on this issue and he showed how the pressure relief valve in the oil pump can get debris in it and stay open. I suspect your engine flush may have cleaned out the debris. ua-cam.com/video/DoCQEdXYTGQ/v-deo.html
My Serria GMC did the same thing I pull the oil pan down hoping to find an issue with the pickup tube as well. I found the same thing. As you nothing. Low oil pressure reading. I decided I would drive it till it dies and put another engine in it. That was a 100.000 miles ago it's still moving forward. Hey, anytime you learn something it's a plus I enjoyed your video. Very clean no cursing you are a good guy 👍
I had the same problem on my 02 Silverado 5.3 L, but my oil pressure went down to 0 PSI at idle, raise the engine speed, and goes to 10 PSI . And it was not the oil pressure switch either. But I went a few steps farther, and I replace the oil pump with a high volume, high-pressure pump from Milling. and when I was in there and a new timing chain & gears...........$ 60.00 more for that. I got a lot of miles on my truck, over 200,000 miles. Oil pressure is good now, 50 PSI at idle, and at freeway speeds, 60 PSI like it should be. GREAT Video Bad Hombre!
You definitely took care of this problem the correct way. I’ve sold the Yukon in this video, but now have a ‘03 Silverado with the 6.0L. I’m really hoping I don’t have to do any of these projects on it soon!
Had the same symptoms with my 08 Yukon Denali with the 6.2 L, but it wasn't the O ring or Oil pump, or internal oil leak. It turned to be a failing oil pressure sending unit with a clogged screen. The sensor gradually failed because the plastic in the part would expand as the motor got up to operating temperature. I simply replaced the sensor and screen. Took literally 10 minutes without removing the intake manifold. I tested a brand new sending unit and it read a lower pressure the hotter the plastic in the part got. Hooked up a mechanical oil pressure guage and the oil pressure was just fine despite the erroneous reading at the guage, but accurate enough. But it's worth checking out the easy possibilities first.
@BadHombreGarage I have the same low oil pressure in my 2004 GMC Savana. What ended up happening with yours? Did you figure out the cause? I'm about to start my journey in figuring out the cause of mine.
Motor Medic Motor Flush, before an oil change run it at idle in your engine for 5 minutes (may need to drain a quart of oil first to make room for it). Then change the oil/filter. It makes all the difference in the world. Pushed my previously too low oil pressure up by ~10 psi on average.
I think you and the comments from others may have saved me some time. I have a 2008 Suburban with only 40k miles on it. I and several mechanics were in disbelief the oil pump could be bad. I don't know why any of them did not know about the O-ring issue. My Suburban has very low miles but that o-ring is still 14 years old.
@@BadHombreGarage I finally towed my 2008 Suburban from old house to new house (only 3 miles away). I am going to start the work soon. Took me awhile to find your video to watch the procedure again.
Note to self, after you fix the clock spring in the Journey get a new creeper and do this pita on the Silverado.Thanx for the video,i may have the confidence to do it now, if simply just the fact i am not alone.
I starting having the problem long time ago, so i changed the oil and the oil pressure sending unit and boom it fixed the problem. Then started doing it again months later and i changed my oil and my pressure went up a little but not for too long, so I took my truck to the mechanic and he replaced the manifold seal because it was bad ok. The truck was fine and now it doing it again. Im going to changed my oil and probably the sending unit and if that doesn't fix the problem I might have to do what you just did. I have a 2996 dodge.
I’m not sure what the issues are with the Dodge engines, I just know that this is a common issue on GM LS engines. Perhaps if you read through the comments in this video you might find some good ideas on how to fix your issue.
2008 sierra 6.0 Starts cold at 40psi Run it for 5-10 minutes psi at 20 and idles at 10-15psi. Already replaced o ring and pressure sensor and screen. Thinking about replacing the oil pump next based off of other comments
Bummer that the other things didn’t fix the problem, it’s not fun to keep tearing into these things. It could be a few things- oil pump, worn bearings, who knows. I’m with you, maybe replace the oil pump and see if that fixes it.
O man. You were halfway there to getting oil pump replaced!! Hopefully this fixed the issue. They like to get brittle and hard and don’t have to crack to cause pressure loss issues
1:20 oh you got time today........... love it. And I need to tackle this same issue in my 01 silverado. I'm at 415k and I hate when I have to whack the gas to get my pressure back up. And that ticking comes from that worn o ring too
Great video! I’m suspecting the o-ring is the issue with my 2005 Sierra with the 5.3, though it’s intermittent. And I feel like it got worse when I stopped using ACDelco oil filters and started using Wix XP, as the higher quality filter media could have increased the pressure at the pickup tube and exacerbated the o-ring failure. Or at least that’s how my logic sees it. Either way I feel like it’s worth a shot at 243k miles, and my oil sending unit was already replaced about 30k ago when the pressure gauge needle stayed all the way to the right.
That could be the problem, though the intermittent part had me wondering if it might be something else. It’s not too hard to change and have that peace of mind though. Thanks for watching the video.
Next step is to put a manual pressure guage to veify true oil pressure. If that is good, flush the engine with a solvent or diesel , or even motor flush. Seen this happen before on long drives.
Try changing the oil pressure relief valve spring. I seen a guy claim the valve gets jammed and, sometimes caught in there. The springs just for added pressure. Something to look at.
I agree you need to change oil pressure release valve spring you might as well put a new oil pump on while you're at it and take care of any future problems
I'm about to replace my o-ring as well. I read a memo from the dealer to their shop guys. It said after approx 125000 miles the o ring can become flat, which causes air to seep in. This can effect oil pressure intermittently. I'm experiencing lifter tick and was hoping this would help. I noticed in your video the o-ring was flat. I'm curious if you're still experiencing low oil pressure after replacement?
My DAD RIP POP’S and I were visiting about my 68 CAMARO and it’s oil pressure problem. It has original engine 327 and it runs great. However the guy I bought it from 35yrs ago told me he and his son rebuilt the motor. My dad drag raced cars my whole young life. I removed the pan changed the pump,new all steel drive rod (no plastic collar)checked oil galleys,gauges,new lines with no success. First start the car drive it while good oil pressure few hours of driving oil pressure would go down,even worse pull up to stop sign and it would drop to about 10lbs. I was having a fit And DAD ask me a question about the rebuild of engine and did the man install with a cam bar his own bearings and I said yes why do ask. His reply was the guy had misaligned 1 of the oil holes. I didn’t believe him just couldn’t wrap my head around it. Well my son and I just tore the motor down 4 months ago. And guess what? There it was just like DAD said cam bearing oil hole was half covered. Anyway for what ever it’s worth I learned a valuable lesson. And my Son doesn’t let me forget.
I've got a 2001 1500 HD 6 liter it starts out at 40 psi then drops down to 20 or lower if I don't keep the rpm's up when it warms up. Once I drive 3 miles it shoots back to 40 psi . I'm sure I have the same problem
It might be. From what I’ve learned though this process and through others’ comments, there are different issues that cause this. It turns out for me, changing the o-ring fixed the low oil pressure problem.
Most of the time its the oring. I've also seen the oil pump rotor get a little wear and make low pressure when warm. I had a 2000 6.0 engine it started at around 160000 and the truck still runs and it has 300000 miles now. Tuff engine.
Just found your video on the same problem I was having. After replacing the pick-up tube o-ring, now the truck is giving me "oil pressure Low" alarm and the needle indicates "0". So I didn't correctly place the new o-ring on. So now i have to redo the whole job. ( 03 GMC yukon Denali w/ 6.0 engine)
I saw another video on you tube about ls engine low oil pressure where the man took out 10 more bolt to remove that shield to see the cheap stamped camshaft bearing walking out of the 2nd journal causing loss of oil pressure. Apparently common problem. Good luck and God Bless
Mine is a 2018 with a 5.3. Apparently GM has engineered these newer engines with tighter tolerances and thin viscosity oil. Mine can idle at 22 pounds which is normal according to the dealership specs. That stopped me from worrying. I still keep an eye on it. Good luck. Take no man's word on it but see the book for yourself.
@@Dboyquicks10 I hope that isn't the problem for you or any of us! I'll say that I haven't had any issues since I did this o-ring replacement. Time will tell.
my 07 Tahoe 5.3 with 175k miles has 17psi at idle and 38psi at 2k rpm on hot oil, cold new oil i get up to almost 40psi at idle and 50psi at 2k for a couple of miles so i changed the oring installed updated oil pan valve slinger but still have exactly same oil pressure i guess next i will try new oil pump truck runs great
if you notice the outer part of the O-Ring is Flattened, So it has lossed it's shape, and the new O-Ring is Rounded, because it is full sized, like it should be. So your Work is Not in vain! You did need to replace it. Mine was the same way and gained about 15 lbs pressure.
What a nipper dang if it is dang if it's not already thinking it's the pump wondering though if there is a screen in side of the filter housing as well restricting flow.
Well… after this video was made I did not have any low oil pressure problems! So I actually believe that the o-ring was the problem. Maybe it was just worn? Thanks for watching.
I had a backlog that I was going to pace out for a while, but then just decided to publish them. I’m planning to make 2 more videos this weekend, God willing!
Same problem with mine (5.3L Vortec, 2007 GM SIerra 1500 2WD). I could do this with an overhead lift but cricks in my neck and shoulders would kill me lying down and wrenching up. I've been researching this a LONG time. My neighbor, pretty knowledgable in mechanics, predicts a collapsed/stuck lifter which seems a common problem in these horrible motors. There was ONE other UA-cam video (a girl mechanic!) who seemed to hit my issue dead on point. Before messing with a deep motor job of lifter replacement, there is a metal plate atop the intake manifold that channels oil. It literally took her about an hour to remove what she needed to and replace the $200 part. It is a crap shoot because I didn't see nor did she show any way to test it but once she put a new one in.....oil pressure problems were resolved. Best of luck. This motor makes me say "Never again!" to GMC. I liked this truck better than my old Silverado but this motor is SHI!!!!!!! * By the way, on another note, look into the AFM delete devices sold. Plug and play and they supposedly will disable the AFM which makes your 8 cylinder motor shut 4 cylinders down to conserve gas. JUNK IDEA!!!!! This is what causes the blessed lifters to collapse and stick.
I have not heard about that piece the gal in the other video replaced. It seems to me that the lifer issues occur with the engines with the economy-minded cylinder shutdown, otherwise they seem to be good engines. Read the comments here, especially the one pinned to the top- there are a lot of good ideas viewers have added. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If it is the o-ring The oil pressure should be worse when it is cold then when it is warm, because The oil comes up the pick up tube easier when it is warm, at least that’s the way it was on my 5.3 Vortech
Great video! nice presentation! Got my 04 avalanche 1500 with the same engine 5.3L month ago and having this low oil pressure problem.. fluctuating gauge and long runs drop the gauge to the very 0.. my journey brought me here. Gonna check with local repair shop how much would they charge me for the O-Ring replacement. I wonder if they could swap the gasket on the oil pan at the same time too.. if it doesn't help, I will head for the oil pump replacement...
Hey Joe, good video on pulling the pan it;s to bad the O ring wasn't problem, ok i have to ask what was the cam shaft doing hanging around, lol, oh and by the way congrats on 1000 subs
Thanks Mike, it turns out the o-ring was the issue! I believe it had become flat and was allowing a leak. I have not had the low oil pressure issue since I swapped it out.
Hey man. Love the video. Especially the sweet tunes with time elapse. I’ve got the same thing going on with my 05 Denali. Replace the pressure sending unit. And now pressure maxes out at almost 40. Then drops as the motor warms up. I saw another video where the old o ring didn’t look bad, but replacing it fixed it. What have you found to fix your issue? Would really appreciate your input. Thanx.
No problem! Actually, after driving the vehicle for a few thousand miles since this video, I haven’t had the low oil pressure problem again. So- I believe the o-ring did fix it.
@@BadHombreGarage the O-rings kind of shrink, from age and heat, they don't always crack, and just the tiniest gap causes the issue... THEY ALL do from GM... so yes I have to do all my LS engines... lol GM.. Im doing my 6.2 Caddy next... it will destroy your engine...
If that didnt make the difference you were looking to get then more then likely your going to have to deal with the plunger after removing oil pump. Simple but common on these motors, Basically oil is getting pulled back down. Plunger on these get stuck not allowing the oil to go through and just cycles back down. Might as well change the oil pump since you have to deal with plunger (separate issue) but connected. Good luck
Number 2 cam cam bearing ! They'll creep forward and leave the oil hole partly exposed dumping the oil back into the oil pan they are notorious for this as GM's use a rolled cam bearing with a lock tab instead of a one solid bearing as it's cheaper for GM and the customer pays the price in the end! Form a 70 year old GM mechanic of 50 year's experience it will get worse SLOWLY but surely!!!
40 psi on cold start it s ok , you dont have problem. I dont know how many milles you have on this motor, but maybe put 10w40 oil if you have high millage
The fact that it stayed in the pump and not on the tube shows that it could have been sucking air around the tube instead of the pump side. The ring is supposed to be round, when they are flat.
would it make sense to put a tiny bead of sealer inside n out side that o ring before reinstall ???????????? Any one try this ever, Ive done this on turbo pedestal o rings and have over 500k on that change out and never have a leak Hmmmm wonder wonder
@@BadHombreGarage if its not the oil pressure sensor or the o ring on the oil sending unit you either have a bad oil pump or bad cam barring's or crank/main barring's
I have a 2003 Corvette. It came with the LS-1 5.7 liter engine. I don't see the tube you're referring to. Is the Corvette engine somehow different? The only issue it had was with the oil pressure sending unit completely failing (0 PSI on the gage). Maybe the 5.7 engine is somehow different?
I believe that the oil pressure sender could easily fail; I’ve had to replace a couple of them. The 5.7 is different than the 5.3/6.0, and honestly I do not know if the 5.7 has a similar oil system as the 5.3.
It could be, worn out cam bearings will cause low oil pressure. Lots of good inputs here in the comments on what else could cause this. In my case, after I made this video I didn’t have the problem any more, so it just have been the o ring.
%100 works just had it done , 9/10 mechanics would not replace my gasket/o ring be issue they said “that’s not the issue” their full of shit, if you have low oil pressure but it does move when you accelerate then this IS probably the fix, don’t let a mechanic talk you into some other bullshit!
ua-cam.com/video/iOlWhwQCqO0/v-deo.html Check out this video, it shows how I replaced that switch. Spoiler alert: I did not put a new screen in, because there wasn’t one in there with the old one! Some awesome viewers commented in that video that the screens came in other years, not the 2006.
I watched your video. I am sorry it was not the oil pick up tube o-ring. I have a 2008 Suburban 5.3L and it was the o-ring. I also have a 2005 Silverado and I am experiencing oil pressure drops to 10 psi with the same problem. Don't know the cause. By chance, did you discover the problem with your truck ? What was the cause of the oil pressure loss ?
Thanks for watching. Yes, I did sort out the issue- it was the o-ring! The one in the car must have been flattened, because after this episode was made I did not have any oil pressure problems.
How many miles on your engine before you had to replace o ring and have u replaced the oil pressure switch before you took that step to replace o ring thanks and good video I subbed !
I can’t remember exactly, but it had around 180K miles. I did replace the pressure sensor (I have a video of that too) first. Changing the o-ring did fix the problem!
2008 Suburban with similar symptoms and 215k miles. 40 PSI cold, 10 at hot idle. Did you find your answer? I did the sending unit, O-ring, lifters already. Just checked for walked out cam bearings and don’t have one... starting to think they might just be slightly worn enough to be a problem. When I went to inspect crankcase for walked bearings I did discover a slight pinch in my o-ring so I’ll replace it and see what happens... Maybe a new higher volume Melling pump will make up for the wearing out block? Great video! Cheers
Thanks for the compliment! Fixing this o-ring seemed to fix the problem for my Yukon. I’ve heard one issue people have is with the oil pump bypass- like some gunk gets in there and lets the oil bypass once it gets warm and thins out. So, if that’s the case then I suspect a new oil pump would fix the problem. That’s a lot of work though... I might try a little marvel mystery oil, then an oil change with a different brand filter and maybe some thicker oil. That’s what I’ll do if I get the problem again.
I think this is the last part of my problem...I had low to dropping oil pressure and a fluttering and jumpy gage on the dash.... I replaced my oil pressure sensor sender n camshaft position sensor (since I was back there topside) and that steadied the Guage but I still have a flicker on the needle and the pressure doesn't read right unless I'm over filled with oil.... so I think I'm flooding the o ring with the overfill n when drained to proper level my pressures aren't right. Good thing the oil pan is leaking too lol..... so I'll get a new gasket on there for more than a $5 oring.... and all that work.
Did you figure out oil pressure issue. I know this video is a year old and I looked through other videos and Don't see a problem solved one. My truck has the same issue and I am thinking the seals around the afm solenoids are leaking. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for watching! I sold this Yukon a few months ago and never took the chance to do a follow up video to this one. Yes, after I did this o-ring swap I no longer had the low pressure issue so it fixed the problem. I haven’t heard about the solenoid issue you mentioned, but I’d consider it if it’s an easy fix.
Thanks, just seems odd to me if the oil pump is sucking air that oil pressure would be higher cold, when the oil is thick and harder to suck up and lower warm when it is easier to suck up. Since the o-ring is before the pump would mean it is sucking air and no leaking oil out.
@@detroitdiy I think it is because the colder, thicker oil has a harder time sneaking past the o-ring, whereas the warm, thin oil slips by much more easily.
Hey my name is Richard and I have the same problem but have also done the same thing to my 05 Denali xl what was the outcome of this problem if I may ask ??..
Richard, this o-ring change fixed my low oil pressure problems! If you read through the comments, you’ll see varying results with this- but again in my case changing the o-ring fixed the problem. Good luck to you Sir, thanks for watching!
Great video! I have the same kind of oil pressures on my 2004 Silverado 5.3 4WD with 203,000 on it. Did you ever figure out what the real "smoking gun" is? If so, please share your discovery. I don't want to have to drop the oil pan either ;)
Yes, thank you for watching and for the comment! I ought to do a follow up video, but here's the story: after being disappointed in this video, I put the yukon back together and drove it for another year without another single incident of low oil pressure! So I guess the o-ring was the smoking gun. It's kind of a pain to pull the pan and change it, but if I can do it anyone can.
@@BadHombreGarage Thanks for your quick response. You know, I initially didn't think I could replace the knock sensors in my 2004 because it just looked so daunting. But I watched some videos and, well, I did it. Now you are helping me gain the confidence to replace that pesky O-ring. At age 76, it's not much fun crawling around under my truck. But I believe it needs to be done, and I thank you for making it look at least do-able...if not easy ;)
Gm put a memo out to their service dept saying, pickup tube o-ring, after 150000 miles, is worn flat and causes air to seep in and needs replacement. This can cause intermittent low oil pressure and lifter tick. In your video the o-ring looks flat. I'm curious if you might have fixed the issue. Do you still have low oil pressure?
@@BadHombreGarage what ended up being the fix?? My 11' Silverado 1500 is doing the same thing, starts at about 50 and drops to 18 at worst after it's warm at idle. Driving it seems to stay between 28-38...
Mine was replaced not even a year ago. Probably 10k miles tops ago and im having low oil pressure recently. Do u think it could have gone that bad that quickly?
Did you ever figure this out? I’m headed down the same road. Already did the sensor/screen and o ring with no success. I’m only at 72k on a 2013 Tahoe.
Yes, it turns out the low oil pressure was corrected by the o-ring in my Yukon. It’s a shame you’re facing the same issue with such low miles! Maybe time for an oil pump?
2006 Silverado with 6.0. I have extremely low oil pressure on cold morning start ups. Once motor warms up it’ll hold 40+ pressure reset of day. Think the Oring could be bad and expand once motor warms up?
Hmm, that’s an interesting thing. Usually, one would expect high oil pressure initially and low after it warms up. I’m really hoping someone on here can chime in with their experience if they’ve had the same issue.
Once the oil warms up, it is much easier for the pump to physically suck it through the pick up tube without getting air introduced. Imagine a thick milkshake (very cold and thick oil) vs. chocolate milk (not so thick) My car only started doing this recently, when it's pretty cold outside for a few weeks at a time , yet once warmed fully from a real good drive it doesn't. Another forum member had said his only did this when it was cold as well. A good test I've heard was to elevate the rear of vehicle to get the oil level in the oil pan to cover the o-ring area. I will try this method, if pressure does indeed go up, you know exactly where the problem lies. I'm 99% sure it is my problem, especially after seeing my forum members comment.
@@BadHombreGarage I'm having the same problem with my 5.3.. I've been doing an engine flush every oil change seems to help.. was also thinking about doing the same changing that o ring. Probably still will just cause.
@@jamiedubois5052 the engine flush probably won’t hurt, but if there is an internal leak then yeah a guy probably ought to get to the bottom of it. Best of luck to you- let us all know how it turns out.
First of all chevy sucks! I been dealing with every defect these vortec engines have.. Change my o ring and same problem. You need to change o ring, oil pump, pick up tube. What i did for now that I saw in a video is this. Before doing oil change like 100 miles, drain a quart of oil and add mystery oil to help clean engine. When ready to change oil do it at night and let the oil drain overnight. Then get a wix oil filter and the recommended oil and this will help. My oil pressure went from 20 at idle, 25 driving to 35 at idle, 40 sometimes 45 at driving. Still going to change but when I have time and money lol. Oh and I change my engine because of lifters and the engine I put in it from the salvage had the same problem. So they fix it and 4 years later my lifters are sounding again
Was there any change in the oil pressure? The o ring looked like it was no longer flexible, it looked flat all around the outside. Could of been sucking some air.
I follow the Yukon XL group on Facebook and someone mentioned that they simply changed their oil filter and that it fixed their pressure issue, now I don’t know the details whether the filter was damaged/defective but since you have that leak coming from the filter, are you sure you’re filter isn’t lose or bad ? Please let me know what you find out
That’s a good idea- I actually have not had any issues with the oil pressure since I did this o-ring replacement. I have changed the oil and filter a couple of times since then, so I’m sure the filter is tight now. I usually use Wix filters, but had to go with a Delco brand last time, so I’ll keep an eye on the pressure and see if it changes. What is the full name of the FB group? I’d like to join and hang this video on there- it might be helpful.
@@chrisconner5439 yes, it fixed the issue. I think the o-ring was flattened, which was allowing a leak. One viewer commented that there was a GM bulletin that went out saying that could happen.
If you change the oil but skip the filter one time, you'll possibly end up showing near 0 oil pressure. It's a known thing and there's a TSB on it. I did this once because I couldn't find the filter I bought a couple weeks prior and had no way to get another. Started getting low oil pressure warnings. Found the TSB, changed only the oil filter and pressure was back to normal.
I don’t believe there is a screen in this engine. I dug around with a hook and I got right in there with my little camera and didn’t see a screen. Another viewer added that they didn’t start putting screens in until 2007.
Could be a lot of stuff- but usually something basic like needing new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Also- a new clean air filter is helpful. If that stuff is all new maybe it’s a dirty or malfunctioning mass air flow sensor?
OK what was the outcome? I really need to know because I have a 2006 Yukon Dinali when I first started there’s zero oil pressure I mean it’s really low! I have to raise the RPMs and really get the oil flowing especially in cold weather. I changed the pressure switch but it still doing it I changed the oil and used some synthetic oil stabilizer by Lucas. Is it the weight of my oil is it the type of oil does that have anything to do with it? Please help me! I’m concerned that there isn’t any oil pressure enough so that I’m hearing lifters. Once the engine is up and going and I drive a little bit it maintains all pressure.
With my Yukon, changing this o-ring cured my oil pressure problems. The pressure went back to normal (around 35 psi) after this change, and stayed that way for a year or so at least until I sold the vehicle this past summer. The weight and type of oil you use will affect your oil pressure, for sure. Personally, when I started seeing the low oil pressure problem I used conventional 20w-50, which is thicker than the recommended oil (5w-20). I went with conventional too, not because I have any science to prove anything, but I feel like when I use synthetic it leaks a lot easier and therefore probably (I felt) was able to slip around that o-ring more and make the internal leak worse.
@@BadHombreGarage what about doing a flush with Motor Medic before going through all the o-ring change? I saw another post about the spring getting stuck.
@@julieberry2793 I have received comments here on the effectiveness of the flush. I have not tried it, but some people have said it is effective. I guess it couldn't hurt, right? Probably a less expensive shot at fixing this.
The seal doesn’t have to be broken for it to suck in air that causes low oil pressure if the seal is flatter on the edges and feels hard it’s most likely the seal anyways. I don’t think you did anything wrong it’s a common problem for the engines.
Good call, I think you’re right. It seems like this fix corrected the problem.
@@BadHombreGarage Pls Clarify, Did the replacement of O-ring on the pick-up line fix the issue?? If not, what else was done? Thanks.
@@tonychavez6686 it seems like it has fixed the problem, as it has been several months since I filmed this video and I have not had the low oil pressure condition again.
@@BadHombreGarage you should pin this or a similar comment to the top of the comments. i came back to the video to say the samething, if the Oring is square and stayed in the pump its still likely the Oring. Pinning this comment would help people that come here looking for answers.
@@vamperalmighty good call! Thanks.
I have 50 years as a mechanic both automotive and heavy equipment. Today watching your video, I learned it is possible to spend the day banging my head into the undercarriage and knuckles into sharp steel then crawl out smiling. Good job. I don't know if you are a father, but you should be. Most people I know would have kicked and cussed the truck then fixed it with a for sale sign.
Ha! That’s great, thank you. I am a father, and sometimes I wish I was as patient with my kids as I can be with a stupid car.
Your right my 3500 dump truck has been a lemon 🍋. New engine new tranny new steering column signal light out be starter dump doesn’t lower. Now the oil pressure is low. I’m headed to lowes for the “for sale sign
@@sancasmiadas1 I wasn't trying to say it's a lemon just that most people would drive it as is or dump some heavy oil in it. I think it's called too lazy to care. Anyway you have some nice hot rods.
Yeah you are right Jeff they just get rid of there car 🚙 hey I also have the same problem with my 2003 gmc Yukon Denali oil pressure drops still I replaced oil pump the pick up tip or ring and add a new oil and new filter and it still does the same thing. It also has a new oil pressure sending unit can’t figure it out yet. The funny thing about it is that the truck runs smooth even though the oil drops all the way to zero there’s no knocking and it doesn’t shut off still wondering What the problem is
Sorry for my spelling 😂
good stuff. 2006 GMC 6.0 @ 280K miles. I had a low oil pressure issue at start up and when warm, and a tick... several shops wanted to pull the heads and were telling me it was a failed lifter. several indicated it was oil pump failure. i chased it for a year, and finally figured out it was this simple o-ring, problem solved. I wish more people knew about about this issue. the forums are full of people chasing this ticking/low pressure issue and this o-ring is often the problem.
Great! I’m glad it worked out for you. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
I have same truck same miles always ran good on 40lbs one day it started dropping an within 2 or 3 days it was at 20 went to go somewhere and it went to 18 or 19 an the oil light came on so I decided to take it to a shop he told me they are notorious for clogged pickup tubes an he said he's fixed many with a special chemical drains the oil an pumps it into the oil pan let's it sit for 3 days to eat all the gunk up lol well took him 6 months to do that and it didn't work tells me it needs a oil pump 1200$ I was mad not about the price because how he told me he would do it half ass as it gets didn't drop the oil pan at all an slammed the new high velocity pump in and calls me this morning its fixed I got it done I payed him 1200 and said thanks very much hopped in my truck an it had the same 19 to 20lbs of oil pressure he even told me the o ring was fine im kicking my teeth out right this second
@@bricehale6593 that’s a bummer. These engines can be frustrating!
I had the same issue with my 2007 Tahoe. I replaced both the o-ring, oil pressure sensor and the screen under the oil pressure sensor only to have the issue persist! I finally FIXED the issue by pouring 1 quart of "Motor Medic" motor flush in the engine oil fill tube as directed. I followed the instructions on the bottle and BINGO! My oil pressure consistently holds great pressure even after long road trips (6hrs). I was super skeptical about any snake oil gimmicks, but it works! $13 dollar fix. Make sure to perform the flush with a cold engine, then change the oil/filter directly after the flush!
Wow, cool! Thanks for the comment- it will give others a different option for fixing this problem.
I was watching another video on this issue and he showed how the pressure relief valve in the oil pump can get debris in it and stay open. I suspect your engine flush may have cleaned out the debris. ua-cam.com/video/DoCQEdXYTGQ/v-deo.html
Did the same thing and totally worked. Thanks!!
My Serria GMC did the same thing I pull the oil pan down hoping to find an issue with the pickup tube as well. I found the same thing. As you nothing. Low oil pressure reading. I decided I would drive it till it dies and put another engine in it. That was a 100.000 miles ago it's still moving forward. Hey, anytime you learn something it's a plus I enjoyed your video. Very clean no cursing you are a good guy 👍
Thank you for the kind words!!
I had the same problem on my 02 Silverado 5.3 L, but my oil pressure went down to 0 PSI at idle, raise the engine
speed, and goes to 10 PSI . And it was not the oil pressure switch either.
But I went a few steps farther, and I replace the oil pump with a high volume, high-pressure pump from Milling.
and when I was in there and a new timing chain & gears...........$ 60.00 more for that.
I got a lot of miles on my truck, over 200,000 miles.
Oil pressure is good now, 50 PSI at idle, and at freeway speeds, 60 PSI like it should be.
GREAT Video Bad Hombre!
You definitely took care of this problem the correct way. I’ve sold the Yukon in this video, but now have a ‘03 Silverado with the 6.0L. I’m really hoping I don’t have to do any of these projects on it soon!
Could you please let me know the model number of the oil pump?
Question- did yours when1st start go up to 20psi?
Given the amount of oil that had been leaking, I am sure that the new pan gasket helped a bit with that. So this experiment was somewhat beneficial.
It was very helpful!
That o ring was flattened in shape so it would probably suck air. I wish you had videoed test drive and oil pressure readings afterwards.
Man, I should have. This change corrected the problem and it had normal pressure afterwards, around 40 psi.
Hey Hombre. Even though I didn't learn anything today, I still enjoy watching gearheads wrenching on cars. Thanks for sharing.👍👍🍁
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Had the same symptoms with my 08 Yukon Denali with the 6.2 L, but it wasn't the O ring or Oil pump, or internal oil leak. It turned to be a failing oil pressure sending unit with a clogged screen. The sensor gradually failed because the plastic in the part would expand as the motor got up to operating temperature. I simply replaced the sensor and screen. Took literally 10 minutes without removing the intake manifold. I tested a brand new sending unit and it read a lower pressure the hotter the plastic in the part got. Hooked up a mechanical oil pressure guage and the oil pressure was just fine despite the erroneous reading at the guage, but accurate enough. But it's worth checking out the easy possibilities first.
Heck yeah, good job. That’s another common issue with these motors.
This video is exactly what I've been looking for. Same issue. Thank you good sir
That’s great! I’m glad you found it helpful.
@BadHombreGarage I have the same low oil pressure in my 2004 GMC Savana. What ended up happening with yours? Did you figure out the cause? I'm about to start my journey in figuring out the cause of mine.
I learned that this issue was in fact solved by replacing the o-ring. @@stevenpeterson5981
Motor Medic Motor Flush, before an oil change run it at idle in your engine for 5 minutes (may need to drain a quart of oil first to make room for it). Then change the oil/filter. It makes all the difference in the world. Pushed my previously too low oil pressure up by ~10 psi on average.
Wow! I wonder how that works?
I think you and the comments from others may have saved me some time. I have a 2008 Suburban with only 40k miles on it. I and several mechanics were in disbelief the oil pump could be bad. I don't know why any of them did not know about the O-ring issue. My Suburban has very low miles but that o-ring is still 14 years old.
Great! Well I hope this is what you need. Let us all know if it works.
@@BadHombreGarage I finally towed my 2008 Suburban from old house to new house (only 3 miles away). I am going to start the work soon. Took me awhile to find your video to watch the procedure again.
@@dwebster68 good luck!
@@dwebster68 so did the replacement o-ring fix your oil pressure?
Great video bro. Anyone working on cars is going to learn either way good or bad. All turns into experience. 🙏🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Thanks for watching, and for the kind words!
Note to self, after you fix the clock spring in the Journey get a new creeper and do this pita on the Silverado.Thanx for the video,i may have the confidence to do it now, if simply just the fact i am not alone.
It can be done, I mean if I can do it anyone can. Just be patient.
Thank you. And thank God for your good attitude. Good video.
Wow, thanks! Thanks for watching.
I starting having the problem long time ago, so i changed the oil and the oil pressure sending unit and boom it fixed the problem. Then started doing it again months later and i changed my oil and my pressure went up a little but not for too long, so I took my truck to the mechanic and he replaced the manifold seal because it was bad ok. The truck was fine and now it doing it again. Im going to changed my oil and probably the sending unit and if that doesn't fix the problem I might have to do what you just did. I have a 2996 dodge.
I’m not sure what the issues are with the Dodge engines, I just know that this is a common issue on GM LS engines. Perhaps if you read through the comments in this video you might find some good ideas on how to fix your issue.
2008 sierra 6.0
Starts cold at 40psi
Run it for 5-10 minutes psi at 20 and idles at 10-15psi.
Already replaced o ring and pressure sensor and screen. Thinking about replacing the oil pump next based off of other comments
Bummer that the other things didn’t fix the problem, it’s not fun to keep tearing into these things. It could be a few things- oil pump, worn bearings, who knows. I’m with you, maybe replace the oil pump and see if that fixes it.
Did it fix it??
Any update?
@@jryoung5460 sold lol
Just did this same procedure on an 09 Tahoe. o ring wasn't broken but was also flattened out like yours was. Changed it out and the issue went away
Brilliant! This fixed my issues too. Well, not all of them, but the oil pressure issues.
O man. You were halfway there to getting oil pump replaced!! Hopefully this fixed the issue. They like to get brittle and hard and don’t have to crack to cause pressure loss issues
You are right! Thankfully this fixed the issue.
@@BadHombreGarage I am doing that right now on my wife's Chevy Avalanche 👊💕🇨🇦
1:20 oh you got time today........... love it. And I need to tackle this same issue in my 01 silverado. I'm at 415k and I hate when I have to whack the gas to get my pressure back up. And that ticking comes from that worn o ring too
Man, 415K! Nice.
Try about 5 oil flush and run 10w-30 on long road trips and install an oil cooler and temperature sensor, high flow quality oil filter
Thanks for the tips!
Great video! I’m suspecting the o-ring is the issue with my 2005 Sierra with the 5.3, though it’s intermittent. And I feel like it got worse when I stopped using ACDelco oil filters and started using Wix XP, as the higher quality filter media could have increased the pressure at the pickup tube and exacerbated the o-ring failure. Or at least that’s how my logic sees it. Either way I feel like it’s worth a shot at 243k miles, and my oil sending unit was already replaced about 30k ago when the pressure gauge needle stayed all the way to the right.
That could be the problem, though the intermittent part had me wondering if it might be something else. It’s not too hard to change and have that peace of mind though. Thanks for watching the video.
Next step is to put a manual pressure guage to veify true oil pressure. If that is good, flush the engine with a solvent or diesel , or even motor flush. Seen this happen before on long drives.
I like the idea of using the manual pressure gauge.
Good idea!
Try changing the oil pressure relief valve spring. I seen a guy claim the valve gets jammed and, sometimes caught in there. The springs just for added pressure. Something to look at.
Thanks! Still a big pain to get in there and fix, but it might be necessary.
I agree you need to change oil pressure release valve spring you might as well put a new oil pump on while you're at it and take care of any future problems
@@davidjohoson8397 I agree.
I'm about to replace my o-ring as well. I read a memo from the dealer to their shop guys. It said after approx 125000 miles the o ring can become flat, which causes air to seep in. This can effect oil pressure intermittently. I'm experiencing lifter tick and was hoping this would help. I noticed in your video the o-ring was flat. I'm curious if you're still experiencing low oil pressure after replacement?
God job. I encountered the same thing with my Avalanche
How did you solve it? Was it the o-ring?
My DAD RIP POP’S and I were visiting about my 68 CAMARO and it’s oil pressure problem. It has original engine 327 and it runs great. However the guy I bought it from 35yrs ago told me he and his son rebuilt the motor. My dad drag raced cars my whole young life. I removed the pan changed the pump,new all steel drive rod (no plastic collar)checked oil galleys,gauges,new lines with no success. First start the car drive it while good oil pressure few hours of driving oil pressure would go down,even worse pull up to stop sign and it would drop to about 10lbs. I was having a fit And DAD ask me a question about the rebuild of engine and did the man install with a cam bar his own bearings and I said yes why do ask. His reply was the guy had misaligned 1 of the oil holes. I didn’t believe him just couldn’t wrap my head around it. Well my son and I just tore the motor down 4 months ago. And guess what? There it was just like DAD said cam bearing oil hole was half covered. Anyway for what ever it’s worth I learned a valuable lesson. And my Son doesn’t let me forget.
Thanks for sharing! I love the lessons I’ve learned from my Dad with old Chevy engines.
Subscribed! I like your honesty!!
Haha! Thanks man, I appreciate the support!
Awesome video, I have just started to get into cars my self, got a few videos on my channel. Loved yours 🙏🏼
Awesome! Thank you! I'll check your channel out!
I've got a 2001 1500 HD 6 liter it starts out at 40 psi then drops down to 20 or lower if I don't keep the rpm's up when it warms up. Once I drive 3 miles it shoots back to 40 psi . I'm sure I have the same problem
It might be. From what I’ve learned though this process and through others’ comments, there are different issues that cause this. It turns out for me, changing the o-ring fixed the low oil pressure problem.
@@BadHombreGarage I've got 293,000 miles on it so I'll try the O ring first. Thanks for the info.
Most of the time its the oring. I've also seen the oil pump rotor get a little wear and make low pressure when warm. I had a 2000 6.0 engine it started at around 160000 and the truck still runs and it has 300000 miles now. Tuff engine.
Nice! This turned out to be the o-ring. The oil pressure was back to normal after this fix.
Just found your video on the same problem I was having. After replacing the pick-up tube o-ring, now the truck is giving me "oil pressure Low" alarm and the needle indicates "0". So I didn't correctly place the new o-ring on. So now i have to redo the whole job. ( 03 GMC yukon Denali w/ 6.0 engine)
Oh man, that stinks. Sorry to hear! At least you know it’ll go quicker this time.
I saw another video on you tube about ls engine low oil pressure where the man took out 10 more bolt to remove that shield to see the cheap stamped camshaft bearing walking out of the 2nd journal causing loss of oil pressure. Apparently common problem. Good luck and God Bless
That’s interesting! I will check it out, thanks!
I saw that one as well. Now I'm nervous about my 6.0
Mine is a 2018 with a 5.3. Apparently GM has engineered these newer engines with tighter tolerances and thin viscosity oil. Mine can idle at 22 pounds which is normal according to the dealership specs. That stopped me from worrying. I still keep an eye on it. Good luck. Take no man's word on it but see the book for yourself.
@@Dboyquicks10 I hope that isn't the problem for you or any of us! I'll say that I haven't had any issues since I did this o-ring replacement. Time will tell.
@@buckwheat7673 Thanks for that info- it does help a guy rest easier at night.
my 07 Tahoe 5.3 with 175k miles has 17psi at idle and 38psi at 2k rpm on hot oil, cold new oil i get up to almost 40psi at idle and 50psi at 2k for a couple of miles so i changed the oring installed updated oil pan valve slinger but still have exactly same oil pressure i guess next i will try new oil pump truck runs great
Ah, bummer that the o-ring didn’t fix it. Let me know if the oil pump does.
I have a 2016 chevy silverado 1500 with the 5.3 its doing the same thing it has just over 180000mi i think ill be doing this soon hopefully it fixs it
Hopefully!
if you notice the outer part of the O-Ring is Flattened, So it has lossed it's shape, and the new O-Ring is Rounded, because it is full sized, like it should be. So your Work is Not in vain! You did need to replace it. Mine was the same way and gained about 15 lbs pressure.
Yep, changing this o-ring fixed the problem!
What a nipper dang if it is dang if it's not already thinking it's the pump wondering though if there is a screen in side of the filter housing as well restricting flow.
It turned out that replacing the o-ring did fix the low oil press problem. Maybe it was leaking past it?
Great job !!!! Sorry that wasn't the issue. I'm having the same problem. I'll check the vlom 1st. Good going boss !!!
Well… after this video was made I did not have any low oil pressure problems! So I actually believe that the o-ring was the problem. Maybe it was just worn? Thanks for watching.
@@BadHombreGarage perfect. Ill be doing this maybe tomorrow, but mine isn't 4x4 so I'll have a hair less work.
@TruthOrDie777 com2 no. It's was actually an oil flush that fixed it. I normally don't do oil flushes.
Good video. Thanks.Might be doing that some day.
Thanks for watching!
Geez pumpin out the hits!!
I had a backlog that I was going to pace out for a while, but then just decided to publish them. I’m planning to make 2 more videos this weekend, God willing!
Nice video
. i just got the code for my h2 oll low preasure
Thanks for watching. Hopefully it is an easy fix!
Have you figured out what the problem was? I'm just happy I don't have to pull the pan off now lol
Yep! This o-ring replacement fixed my low oil pressure issue.
Same problem with mine (5.3L Vortec, 2007 GM SIerra 1500 2WD). I could do this with an overhead lift but cricks in my neck and shoulders would kill me lying down and wrenching up. I've been researching this a LONG time. My neighbor, pretty knowledgable in mechanics, predicts a collapsed/stuck lifter which seems a common problem in these horrible motors. There was ONE other UA-cam video (a girl mechanic!) who seemed to hit my issue dead on point. Before messing with a deep motor job of lifter replacement, there is a metal plate atop the intake manifold that channels oil. It literally took her about an hour to remove what she needed to and replace the $200 part. It is a crap shoot because I didn't see nor did she show any way to test it but once she put a new one in.....oil pressure problems were resolved. Best of luck. This motor makes me say "Never again!" to GMC. I liked this truck better than my old Silverado but this motor is SHI!!!!!!! * By the way, on another note, look into the AFM delete devices sold. Plug and play and they supposedly will disable the AFM which makes your 8 cylinder motor shut 4 cylinders down to conserve gas. JUNK IDEA!!!!! This is what causes the blessed lifters to collapse and stick.
I have not heard about that piece the gal in the other video replaced. It seems to me that the lifer issues occur with the engines with the economy-minded cylinder shutdown, otherwise they seem to be good engines. Read the comments here, especially the one pinned to the top- there are a lot of good ideas viewers have added. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The oring is flat on the OD, I replaced pumps n orings in yukon n tahoe.
Hope this fixed ur problem
I don’t think I noticed that when I did the video. Replacing the o-ring did in fact fix the low oil pressure issue.
🤷🏾♂️we live we learn. I’m suspecting the same thing on my 5.3 and this video just made me feel way better if it’s not that damn O ring.
Thanks! And actually, after almost a year- that problem had not come back. It looks like this o-ring change fixed the problem.
If it is the o-ring The oil pressure should be worse when it is cold then when it is warm, because The oil comes up the pick up tube easier when it is warm, at least that’s the way it was on my 5.3 Vortech
After a year or so, the pressure seemed to hold from the o-ring fix.
What was your fix then?
@@RickMandanga-cm6ph drop the front axle and the oil pan, replace the o-ring that connects the sump tube to the pump
Great video! nice presentation! Got my 04 avalanche 1500 with the same engine 5.3L month ago and having this low oil pressure problem.. fluctuating gauge and long runs drop the gauge to the very 0.. my journey brought me here. Gonna check with local repair shop how much would they charge me for the O-Ring replacement. I wonder if they could swap the gasket on the oil pan at the same time too.. if it doesn't help, I will head for the oil pump replacement...
Right on, I hope this helps. I recommend a new gasket while the oil pan is off anyway, a guy might as well do it. Good luck 👍
@@BadHombreGarage thank you Brother
Likely the pressure relief valve sticking slightly open on the oil pump…
Could be…
Hey Joe, good video on pulling the pan it;s to bad the O ring wasn't problem, ok i have to ask what was the cam shaft doing hanging around, lol, oh and by the way congrats on 1000 subs
Thanks Mike, it turns out the o-ring was the issue! I believe it had become flat and was allowing a leak. I have not had the low oil pressure issue since I swapped it out.
I also start with gloves and finish with dirty hands.haha
Haha! True.
Hey man.
Love the video.
Especially the sweet tunes with time elapse.
I’ve got the same thing going on with my 05 Denali. Replace the pressure sending unit. And now pressure maxes out at almost 40. Then drops as the motor warms up.
I saw another video where the old o ring didn’t look bad, but replacing it fixed it.
What have you found to fix your issue?
Would really appreciate your input.
Thanx.
After I replaced the o-ring I have not had the oil pressure problem, so I believe it has fixed it!
Thanks for showing the process, even if that wasn’t the problem in the end 👍
No problem! Actually, after driving the vehicle for a few thousand miles since this video, I haven’t had the low oil pressure problem again. So- I believe the o-ring did fix it.
@@BadHombreGarage the O-rings kind of shrink, from age and heat, they don't always crack, and just the tiniest gap causes the issue... THEY ALL do from GM... so yes I have to do all my LS engines... lol GM.. Im doing my 6.2 Caddy next... it will destroy your engine...
@@sketchydustin8372 thanks! Yep, it seemed to be the problem I was having.
If that didnt make the difference you were looking to get then more then likely your going to have to deal with the plunger after removing oil pump. Simple but common on these motors, Basically oil is getting pulled back down. Plunger on these get stuck not allowing the oil to go through and just cycles back down. Might as well change the oil pump since you have to deal with plunger (separate issue) but connected. Good luck
Right on, thanks for the good info! My car seems to be fixed by this o-ring replacement, but if it drops oil pressure again I’ll do the oil pump.
Number 2 cam cam bearing ! They'll creep forward and leave the oil hole partly exposed dumping the oil back into the oil pan they are notorious for this as GM's use a rolled cam bearing with a lock tab instead of a one solid bearing as it's cheaper for GM and the customer pays the price in the end! Form a 70 year old GM mechanic of 50 year's experience it will get worse SLOWLY but surely!!!
Thanks for the input!
Check out Ultimate Ls no oil pressure low oil pressure diagnosis video
Will do! Thanks.
40 psi on cold start it s ok , you dont have problem. I dont know how many milles you have on this motor, but maybe put 10w40 oil if you have high millage
Good call, it is better now.
Or possibly the tiny screen on the oil pressure sensor up near the firewall. $6.00 screen that can take out an engine lol
Good call- actually this truck doesn’t have that screen. I checked.
The fact that it stayed in the pump and not on the tube shows that it could have been sucking air around the tube instead of the pump side. The ring is supposed to be round, when they are flat.
Good point! It was in fact this o-ring that was causing the problem; after this fix the oil pressure was normal.
@@BadHombreGarage honestly a poor design, should have been recalled and updated to a redesign pump/pickup that is made onto the pump instead.
would it make sense to put a tiny bead of sealer inside n out side that o ring before reinstall ???????????? Any one try this ever, Ive done this on turbo pedestal o rings and have over 500k on that change out and never have a leak Hmmmm wonder wonder
Ehh, I don’t think I’d try it. I hope someone that has tried it comments here and lets us all know how it went.
In my Denali 05 lifter noise and the pressure oil gauge is all the way down on the other side, is that possible the pump is bad?
That is a possibility, for sure. If the engine is making lifter noise, I'd say that something is bad other than just the gauge, that's for sure.
@@BadHombreGarage o ok thank you I will decide what to do then ....
its your oil pump. But dont put your pan on before you change it or youll have to remove it again
Thanks for the inputs!
You can do the pump while you have the pan off depending on the mileage.. but it's not the pump
That just means you have bad crank or rod barrings thats also easy to do with the engine in the vehicle
Copy, I hope that’s not it!
@@BadHombreGarage if its not the oil pressure sensor or the o ring on the oil sending unit you either have a bad oil pump or bad cam barring's or crank/main barring's
@@parzival5884 yup.
I have a 2003 Corvette. It came with the LS-1 5.7 liter engine. I don't see the tube you're referring to. Is the Corvette engine somehow different? The only issue it had was with the oil pressure sending unit completely failing (0 PSI on the gage). Maybe the 5.7 engine is somehow different?
I believe that the oil pressure sender could easily fail; I’ve had to replace a couple of them. The 5.7 is different than the 5.3/6.0, and honestly I do not know if the 5.7 has a similar oil system as the 5.3.
I have the same problem on my 01 6.0. I'm thinking maybe cam bearing are worn
It could be, worn out cam bearings will cause low oil pressure. Lots of good inputs here in the comments on what else could cause this. In my case, after I made this video I didn’t have the problem any more, so it just have been the o ring.
A yota and chevy fan?👍👍
And Jeep!
Great video sir I plan on don’t this to a 2002 1500 suburban 😔 how did u clean out the pick up tube and filter ?
I used a spray can of brake cleaner and wiped it out with a clean rag. I just made sure not to leave any lint or debris in the tube.
%100 works just had it done , 9/10 mechanics would not replace my gasket/o ring be issue they said “that’s not the issue” their full of shit, if you have low oil pressure but it does move when you accelerate then this IS probably the fix, don’t let a mechanic talk you into some other bullshit!
Thanks for watching and adding the support!
Good job
Thanks!
When doing the "oil pressure sensor switch" you changed the screen at the bottom? I'm sure you did as you seem fairly thorough!
ua-cam.com/video/iOlWhwQCqO0/v-deo.html
Check out this video, it shows how I replaced that switch. Spoiler alert: I did not put a new screen in, because there wasn’t one in there with the old one! Some awesome viewers commented in that video that the screens came in other years, not the 2006.
It's the oil pump
It probably could use a new pump.
They dont have to be broken, it can suck in air even when the oring is just flattened out. Did you ever figure anything out?
You’re right! This has fixed my low oil pressure problem. So far, at least it seems.
I watched your video. I am sorry it was not the oil pick up tube o-ring. I have a 2008 Suburban 5.3L and it was the o-ring.
I also have a 2005 Silverado and I am experiencing oil pressure drops to 10 psi with the same problem. Don't know the cause.
By chance, did you discover the problem with your truck ? What was the cause of the oil pressure loss ?
Thanks for watching. Yes, I did sort out the issue- it was the o-ring! The one in the car must have been flattened, because after this episode was made I did not have any oil pressure problems.
How many miles on your engine before you had to replace o ring and have u replaced the oil pressure switch before you took that step to replace o ring thanks and good video I subbed !
I can’t remember exactly, but it had around 180K miles. I did replace the pressure sensor (I have a video of that too) first. Changing the o-ring did fix the problem!
2008 Suburban with similar symptoms and 215k miles. 40 PSI cold, 10 at hot idle. Did you find your answer?
I did the sending unit, O-ring, lifters already. Just checked for walked out cam bearings and don’t have one... starting to think they might just be slightly worn enough to be a problem. When I went to inspect crankcase for walked bearings I did discover a slight pinch in my o-ring so I’ll replace it and see what happens... Maybe a new higher volume Melling pump will make up for the wearing out block? Great video! Cheers
Thanks for the compliment! Fixing this o-ring seemed to fix the problem for my Yukon. I’ve heard one issue people have is with the oil pump bypass- like some gunk gets in there and lets the oil bypass once it gets warm and thins out. So, if that’s the case then I suspect a new oil pump would fix the problem. That’s a lot of work though... I might try a little marvel mystery oil, then an oil change with a different brand filter and maybe some thicker oil. That’s what I’ll do if I get the problem again.
I think this is the last part of my problem...I had low to dropping oil pressure and a fluttering and jumpy gage on the dash.... I replaced my oil pressure sensor sender n camshaft position sensor (since I was back there topside) and that steadied the Guage but I still have a flicker on the needle and the pressure doesn't read right unless I'm over filled with oil.... so I think I'm flooding the o ring with the overfill n when drained to proper level my pressures aren't right. Good thing the oil pan is leaking too lol..... so I'll get a new gasket on there for more than a $5 oring.... and all that work.
Good idea, might as well do what you can while you’re in there. Let us all know how it goes!
Did you figure out oil pressure issue. I know this video is a year old and I looked through other videos and Don't see a problem solved one. My truck has the same issue and I am thinking the seals around the afm solenoids are leaking. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for watching! I sold this Yukon a few months ago and never took the chance to do a follow up video to this one. Yes, after I did this o-ring swap I no longer had the low pressure issue so it fixed the problem. I haven’t heard about the solenoid issue you mentioned, but I’d consider it if it’s an easy fix.
Thanks, just seems odd to me if the oil pump is sucking air that oil pressure would be higher cold, when the oil is thick and harder to suck up and lower warm when it is easier to suck up. Since the o-ring is before the pump would mean it is sucking air and no leaking oil out.
@@detroitdiy I think it is because the colder, thicker oil has a harder time sneaking past the o-ring, whereas the warm, thin oil slips by much more easily.
Hey my name is Richard and I have the same problem but have also done the same thing to my 05 Denali xl what was the outcome of this problem if I may ask ??..
Richard, this o-ring change fixed my low oil pressure problems! If you read through the comments, you’ll see varying results with this- but again in my case changing the o-ring fixed the problem. Good luck to you Sir, thanks for watching!
Great video! I have the same kind of oil pressures on my 2004 Silverado 5.3 4WD with 203,000 on it. Did you ever figure out what the real "smoking gun" is? If so, please share your discovery. I don't want to have to drop the oil pan either ;)
Yes, thank you for watching and for the comment! I ought to do a follow up video, but here's the story: after being disappointed in this video, I put the yukon back together and drove it for another year without another single incident of low oil pressure! So I guess the o-ring was the smoking gun. It's kind of a pain to pull the pan and change it, but if I can do it anyone can.
@@BadHombreGarage Thanks for your quick response. You know, I initially didn't think I could replace the knock sensors in my 2004 because it just looked so daunting. But I watched some videos and, well, I did it. Now you are helping me gain the confidence to replace that pesky O-ring. At age 76, it's not much fun crawling around under my truck. But I believe it needs to be done, and I thank you for making it look at least do-able...if not easy ;)
Does this Oring problem exist for the 4.8L ?
I’m not sure, I can’t imagine why not but I haven’t heard of it specifically happening with a 4.8. Maybe some other viewers can chime in?
Gm put a memo out to their service dept saying, pickup tube o-ring, after 150000 miles, is worn flat and causes air to seep in and needs replacement. This can cause intermittent low oil pressure and lifter tick. In your video the o-ring looks flat. I'm curious if you might have fixed the issue. Do you still have low oil pressure?
That is really good info!! Yes, mine was flat and replacing it has fixed the issue. Thank you!
We’red you buy the o-ring from?
I believe I found it at O’Reilly auto.
On your next oil change use UPF46R acdelco filter…. Thank me later
I usually go with Wix, is the acdelco superior?
@@BadHombreGarage if is the black WIX filter is fine
So how is the pressure now my truck has same problem ..im thinking of changing the oil pump .good video by the way 👍👍
Thanks! The pressure now is 40 while driving, and at the worst 30 while hot at idle.
@@BadHombreGarage what ended up being the fix?? My 11' Silverado 1500 is doing the same thing, starts at about 50 and drops to 18 at worst after it's warm at idle. Driving it seems to stay between 28-38...
@@chrisfarrell2122 it was the o-ring. Since I did the fix in this video, I haven’t had any problems.
@@BadHombreGarage thank you so much for letting me know!! I really appreciate the quick reply! It's been stressing me out.
Mine was replaced not even a year ago. Probably 10k miles tops ago and im having low oil pressure recently. Do u think it could have gone that bad that quickly?
That’s hard to say, it seems like it should last longer than that.
Did you check the screen under the oil pressure sending unit?
I tried to, but there was no screen installed.
Maybe the oil pump , they're known to get weak .
It could be. So far it seems to be holding steady with just the o-ring change.
Did you ever figure this out? I’m headed down the same road. Already did the sensor/screen and o ring with no success. I’m only at 72k on a 2013 Tahoe.
Yes, it turns out the low oil pressure was corrected by the o-ring in my Yukon. It’s a shame you’re facing the same issue with such low miles! Maybe time for an oil pump?
We’re you able to find a solution
So it didn't raise your oil pressure?
Actually, it did. After this I didn’t have the low oil pressure problem.
2006 Silverado with 6.0. I have extremely low oil pressure on cold morning start ups. Once motor warms up it’ll hold 40+ pressure reset of day. Think the Oring could be bad and expand once motor warms up?
Hmm, that’s an interesting thing. Usually, one would expect high oil pressure initially and low after it warms up. I’m really hoping someone on here can chime in with their experience if they’ve had the same issue.
Once the oil warms up, it is much easier for the pump to physically suck it through the pick up tube without getting air introduced. Imagine a thick milkshake (very cold and thick oil) vs. chocolate milk (not so thick)
My car only started doing this recently, when it's pretty cold outside for a few weeks at a time , yet once warmed fully from a real good drive it doesn't. Another forum member had said his only did this when it was cold as well. A good test I've heard was to elevate the rear of vehicle to get the oil level in the oil pan to cover the o-ring area. I will try this method, if pressure does indeed go up, you know exactly where the problem lies. I'm 99% sure it is my problem, especially after seeing my forum members comment.
@@QuicKurtZX14R let us know how it works out!
@@BadHombreGarage Will do !
I'm not sure but those 5.3 all seem to have the same problem.
It seems pretty common, especially after a lot of miles.
@@BadHombreGarage I'm having the same problem with my 5.3.. I've been doing an engine flush every oil change seems to help.. was also thinking about doing the same changing that o ring. Probably still will just cause.
@@jamiedubois5052 the engine flush probably won’t hurt, but if there is an internal leak then yeah a guy probably ought to get to the bottom of it. Best of luck to you- let us all know how it turns out.
How often does this bad oring happen on the same vehicle? I replace mine about 3 years ago and am having the same problem.
That’s a great question! I would think it would last longer than that, but I hope some others here will chime in with their experience.
LOL LOL LOL😂🤣🤣🤣 it's the sensor,
Thankfully, after changing that o-ring the oil pressure returned to normal and I didn’t have any more issues.
After the o-ring. Did the pressure go to normal.
Yes, it seems like the problem is fixed and has not given me any more low oil pressure indications.
First of all chevy sucks! I been dealing with every defect these vortec engines have.. Change my o ring and same problem. You need to change o ring, oil pump, pick up tube. What i did for now that I saw in a video is this. Before doing oil change like 100 miles, drain a quart of oil and add mystery oil to help clean engine. When ready to change oil do it at night and let the oil drain overnight. Then get a wix oil filter and the recommended oil and this will help. My oil pressure went from 20 at idle, 25 driving to 35 at idle, 40 sometimes 45 at driving. Still going to change but when I have time and money lol. Oh and I change my engine because of lifters and the engine I put in it from the salvage had the same problem. So they fix it and 4 years later my lifters are sounding again
Good advice! Thanks!
Was there any change in the oil pressure? The o ring looked like it was no longer flexible, it looked flat all around the outside. Could of been sucking some air.
Yes, thanks for asking. The problem seemed to be fixed with this procedure as the oil pressure is back to normal.
@@BadHombreGarage Looks like your diagnostic skills were good. Thanks for the reply. Getting ready to do the same job on an 07 5.3.
@@johnreid859 good luck to you Sir! As far as my skills- I guess even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while!
did it fix the problem?
Yes it did.
I follow the Yukon XL group on Facebook and someone mentioned that they simply changed their oil filter and that it fixed their pressure issue, now I don’t know the details whether the filter was damaged/defective but since you have that leak coming from the filter, are you sure you’re filter isn’t lose or bad ? Please let me know what you find out
That’s a good idea- I actually have not had any issues with the oil pressure since I did this o-ring replacement. I have changed the oil and filter a couple of times since then, so I’m sure the filter is tight now. I usually use Wix filters, but had to go with a Delco brand last time, so I’ll keep an eye on the pressure and see if it changes. What is the full name of the FB group? I’d like to join and hang this video on there- it might be helpful.
@@BadHombreGarage So even though your Feeder Tube O ring looked ok...Replacing it fixed your issue?
@@chrisconner5439 yes, it fixed the issue. I think the o-ring was flattened, which was allowing a leak. One viewer commented that there was a GM bulletin that went out saying that could happen.
If you change the oil but skip the filter one time, you'll possibly end up showing near 0 oil pressure. It's a known thing and there's a TSB on it. I did this once because I couldn't find the filter I bought a couple weeks prior and had no way to get another. Started getting low oil pressure warnings. Found the TSB, changed only the oil filter and pressure was back to normal.
Ok. Did you change the "screen" under the oil pressure switch? Have to pull it out with a small hook.
I don’t believe there is a screen in this engine. I dug around with a hook and I got right in there with my little camera and didn’t see a screen. Another viewer added that they didn’t start putting screens in until 2007.
@@BadHombreGarage sounds about right. I had an 08
Great job man, what causes your engine to surge and act a fool when you come to a stop light or sign what's going on with the truck
Could be a lot of stuff- but usually something basic like needing new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Also- a new clean air filter is helpful. If that stuff is all new maybe it’s a dirty or malfunctioning mass air flow sensor?
OK what was the outcome? I really need to know because I have a 2006 Yukon Dinali when I first started there’s zero oil pressure I mean it’s really low! I have to raise the RPMs and really get the oil flowing especially in cold weather. I changed the pressure switch but it still doing it I changed the oil and used some synthetic oil stabilizer by Lucas. Is it the weight of my oil is it the type of oil does that have anything to do with it? Please help me! I’m concerned that there isn’t any oil pressure enough so that I’m hearing lifters. Once the engine is up and going and I drive a little bit it maintains all pressure.
With my Yukon, changing this o-ring cured my oil pressure problems. The pressure went back to normal (around 35 psi) after this change, and stayed that way for a year or so at least until I sold the vehicle this past summer. The weight and type of oil you use will affect your oil pressure, for sure. Personally, when I started seeing the low oil pressure problem I used conventional 20w-50, which is thicker than the recommended oil (5w-20). I went with conventional too, not because I have any science to prove anything, but I feel like when I use synthetic it leaks a lot easier and therefore probably (I felt) was able to slip around that o-ring more and make the internal leak worse.
@@BadHombreGarage what about doing a flush with Motor Medic before going through all the o-ring change? I saw another post about the spring getting stuck.
@@julieberry2793 I have received comments here on the effectiveness of the flush. I have not tried it, but some people have said it is effective. I guess it couldn't hurt, right? Probably a less expensive shot at fixing this.