0 or Low Oil Pressure? Chevy Suburban, 5.3l Vortec 2007-2014, Tahoe, Yukon. Diagnose and Fix Easiest
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2019
- Sorry this video is filmed with my phone and not edited properly. This might not work for everyone but can't believe it worked for me. Seemed like bad oil pump, GM Master Tech told me it was. I started with oil pressure sensor located on back of intake manifold, replaced the sensor as well as the screen/filter below it. Was able to replace the filter and screen without removing the intake manifold. That seemed to fix it but after 10 minutes or so with new parts in there oil pressure dropped again. Didn't make sense for it to be a oil pump with no noise in the engine when it was saying 0 pressure. So last ditch effort was to use a quart of atf and a bottle of seafoam in the oil to try and clear up any gunk or sludge blocking sensor. I use 10w30 and the heavier weight maybe was part of the reason for this sludge but at any rate it fixed it, oil pressure solid around 40 psi and up. Drove it a couple hours at different speeds and oil pressure is now good and stabiltrack and traction control and all other dummy lights are off. I think i unplugged battery overnight for lights to turn off. Gotta try this before anything else its easy and good for your engine anyways. After the oil pressure is back to normal its good idea to change oil and get all that gunk out of there. LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE Thanks guys almost 1k!
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FREAKIN GENIUS!!!!
My 07 Tahoe ran with oil pressure just at 20. The “low oil, shut engine off” light would come on. After doing this oil psi is at 40 idle and 60 when running. Never was that high before. My mechanic thought I should’ve replaced the engine.
Time for a NEW MECHANIC!!
Good to hear. These engines are trash though with that afm. As they do cause a lot of issues. Better to get a older one before cylinder on demand or after. I think 2012 they had it sorted out
So what you did again? Just making sure I heard this right. You just put a 1 qut of Transmission fluid and seafoam and how long you leave it there inside the engine?
Ran engine for 5 minutes then changed it
I guess I plan on doing this to my 08 GMC Sierra that I just got with the first oil change I do on it since at idle the oil pressure sits at 15-20psi and then it’ll start ticking but runs and drives fine with no problems or lights on it with oil pressure around 40 psi while driving
@@mrhighway have the same question
I’m glad I found your video. Had an appointment set up later this week to have my dealer look into this issue. Saw your video and did exactly like you said and after adding the fluids my pressure started to work it’s way back down to around 5 but then has slowly climbed up to about 30 at idle
Unfortunately this might not be a permanent solution as sludge continues to build up
The comments are giving me hope! Its a little bit over midnight as I am seeing this video.I can't wait till the morning to try it on my car.I have chevy traverse and my car have this exact problem. Infact, I already changed the oil when it first happened and it got beer for almost 2 weeks.But I didn't drive it for two connective days and the problem comes back.I was frustrated this time, I hope this trick will work on car too. Thank you for the video
Those have a different engine so not assuming this is your problem
So I was driving my 250,000 mile Yukon daily. This just happened to me. I was freaking out cause I thought it was time for a new engine. I put a bottle of sea foam, 1 qt of tranny fluid in and let it run for 3 min or so. Changed the oil. Changed the oil pressure switch and cleaned the screen. Fired it up and it’s all good. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
For sure.
This is great! Thank you for making this video. My 2010 XL does the same thing right before an oil change is needed. Oil change with a WIX XP oil filter does the trick. The xp is a 2 dollar upgrade from the standard WIX. I only have the issue around 15% oil life. I'm definitely going to add seafoam before the next change. 115,000 miles and loving it. I'm hoping the upgraded filter also helps as it's designed for synthetic oil
Maybe helps. Need to deactivate the afm to fix the problem really before it's too late
@@g3mccotter I put it in manual 5. It won't activate the AFM unless you go to 6 but if you just shift it to D than it's active in most gears. I don't think it messes up anything. I was tired of feeling like I did not have power driving at lower speed in the city so I tried shifting it manually with the buttons and figured it out.
I was having the same issues with my 2007 Chevy Silverado. Additionally to the oil pressure dropping issue, sometimes my engine would run rough as if I was missing on one or two cylinders. But sometimes it would run fine and I would only experience the oil pressure dropping with engine warmup.
Anyway, after trying the Seafoam treatment in my oil, I noticed the oil pressure stayed normal for a little bit longer.
So I ended up doing three oil changes and using the Seafoam treatment.
My truck is now and has been running perfect for several months now.
I'm pretty sure I'm now going to be doing a Seafoam treatment every time I do an oil change.
Thanks for making this video.
Sounds good. Yeah with the afm in these things it builds up crazy sludge I think
You can do the same thing with transmission fluid the transmission fluid is a cleaner it will clean your lifters and all
You put the seafoam in your gas tank or oil?
@@coreymercer3920 oil.
I added it to my engine oil. I let my engine run for a little bit. Then I changed my oil. Things cleared up enough for me to be able to drive my truck. But it still was chattering and running rough. I added seafoam again and drove about 30 miles. I changed the oil again, I didn't see phone and drove about 50 miles. After changing oil that had cleaned out everything pretty well and started running smooth. I'm still driving the truck today.
@@quentinbell5617how’s the 5.3 holding up after a year of that?
Worked!!!!! Oil pressure is back up. 2012 chevy Tahoe LT running like a charm.
Crazy huh haha
What’s the trick
IMPORTANT! READ! this is my experience. I was coming due for an oil change at 237000 miles. I was about a quart of oil low. For the first time ever that warning light came on to "stop engine" due to low oil pressure. I took my foot off the gas and saw the pressure drop to zero. Fortunately I was a block and a half (less than an eighth of a mile) from home when this happen. When I stepped on the gas the pressure went to 15 and I was home and shut the engine off. I put almost a quart of oil in the engine to be full. My pressure went to 35 when cold start and dropped to 26 when engine warmed up. I studied you tube lessons on this. Auto Zone tested and said oil sensor needed to be replaced. A you tune lesson or two said put in medical oil flush, run engine at idle for 5 minute, change oil, use good oil filter, and use a quart of Lucia Oil stabilizer. I followed these directions having oil change at Wal-Mart directly after 5 minute flush. My oil pressure improved! It was 36 to 41 whether running in park or driving at 55 mph. I drove 20 miles to auto repair shop. That oil pressure maintained itself. By calling around this mechanic agreed to replace the sensor without removing the intake manifold and just working behind the top of the engine. The cost for sensor and labor wss $165. But this is when my awareness enhanced. He showed me the screen just after removing it. It only had a few specks of crud in it. I mean like 95% clean. When the job was done and I drove it the pressure was actually 1 psi LESS than when I drove my 2008 Yukon there. Still stable oil pressure as when I drove there. I then heard if we use an oil flush once a year at this mileage we will never have a problem with oil pressure. My conclusion: I did not need to replace the oil pressure sensor once I saw with confidence my oil pressure was good and stable going to the mechanic. Try this. If it works you save money, time, and worries. This was my experience. Wish you the best.
Thanks so much for this comment. My 08 suburban has been having this issue for a while. Stopped driving it because it was such an issue. Going to try this out. Hopefully it’s a fix.
I’m going through this right now with my 08 Surburban and I’m so irritated and lost for words!! I’m going try everything you done and pray it works 🙏🏿
@@eprice8709did u try it out?
What model is your truck’
Appreciate the mad detail dawgg. Having this problem now but imma try it and hope it works.
Well it worked! Just like you said. After running the ATF and seafoam, got a little thicker gunky oil out of the pan. Used full synthetic 5/30 and put in the AC Delco black filter. Noticed immediately the pressure well above 40#, increases with engine rev. Drove for 30 miles and stayed the same with ~ 30# at idle on warm engine. Solved!?! What would we do without you people getting your vids on here. Thanks for taking the time.
So awesome to hear. Yeah I couldn't believe when mine worked I was very grateful since multiple people were telling me I needed a new engine. Yeah those oil pressure sound right.
Is it still good?
g3mccotter it worked for u how long did it take ?
Still running Ok. 30#-35# after engine is hot.
How’s it holding up ? Any updates on the pressure ?
Exactly what I am experiencing. I changed the oil pressure sensor then had to take to the dealer. I changed my valve cover gaskets due to leaks but my valve cover bolt holes were stripped. Dealer installed heli coil kit and new valve covers, drove the truck and said oil pressure was good. I picked it up, drove 10 miles and oil pressure dropped to zero. Back to dealer and they did a manual pressure test which was 20 psi @ 3000 RPM and 0 psi at Idle. They said it was indicative of bearing failure and suggested a new engine. I told them to check the oil pickup tube screen for blockage and to change the o-ring on the pickup tube. They're doing that this week. I'm pretty sure it will work. Like yours, I have zero engine noise. 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L Vortec.
Yeah hopefully that solves it. Stripped bolt holes are no fun
Hi Richard, what was the end result after they changed the o-ring on the pickup tube?
@@micahrobinson5224 they've been sitting on it since I posted this, giving me excuses as to why they haven't got it done. I called them today ready to tell them I was taking it somewhere else, but when I called they said it was being worked on and should be done by end of day today. Stay tuned.
@@micahrobinson5224 well, they found a piece of cam bearing in the oil pan. Again they say new engine. Waiting to see if Warranty company will cover it.
@@micahrobinson5224 warranty company (Route 66) is paying $3K towards a new engine. I found a company that remanufactures the 5.3 with a D.O.D. Deleted engine for a few hundred more than the D.O.D. engine, S&J Engines. Lead time is 12-14 weeks on delivery. I'm also thinking about poly engine mounts from AFP. Dealer would not install a D.O.D. Deleted engine, says GM won't allow it, but that's ok because they charge $2800+ for an engine install and the mechanic I got is $900. I'm good with saving $2K! Hope to be in my truck by mid May.
Thanks for the video. Thought we had a bad pump or o ring on my sons truck. I knew of this method but didn’t want to do it because I thought the truck was maintained correctly. Previous owner is related. Did this and it did the trick.
Good to hear. Surprised me when it worked and everyone else it's worked for.
@LUNAR FLEX luckily for me, it was as easy as an engine flush. Which is basically what running a quart of transmission fluid and a pint of Berryman in your crankcase, along with your engine oil. My engine was all gummed up.
I have the same problem & my smog check won’t pass did this also happen to you ? I’ll be trying it out tomorrow but just wondering
if the smog Check also didn’t pass for anyone else .
Have similar problems. Here is what to look for not in any particular order. Bad sending unit, Bad oil seals, rear main seal, o ring on the oil pick up tube in pan cracked, oil pump worn, and Cheap restrictive oil filters. I do recommend the oil flush trick on older high mileage engines too. Good luck!
Good call
I’m having same problem, had sensor changed, head gaskets and was good for a while. Started doing oil pressure low stop engine again today.
You can try this if your engine doesn't sound like it's out of oil like the gauge says.
I’ve had this issue and it was solved with a new oil filter and oil change. I believe the filter was getting clogged enough to drop pressure. I use quick change oil service place and suspect the filters are cheap.
There's so much sludge from the afm it gets clogged everywhere
I had this same problem. My oil pressure fluctuated and fell low enough for the same alert to come on. The car had no signs of low oil pressure; no knocking, no increased temperature, or reduced power. We tried quite a few things. The one thing that fixed it the gauge and alert problem was to simply change the oil filter. I have about 25% life left on the oil, so I will be changing it soon enough. During the course of regular driving, it never dropped below 40 psi, except at stoplights, while it idled, and that still stayed in the 30 psi range. I'm sure that this is a symptom of something else, but that put my mind at ease. I will add ATF to my oil right before my next change, for sure.
Yeah. Could be all the gunk in the oil is getting caught in the filter and restricting flow but then you would see hear symptoms of low oil so that's what's weird.
What brand oil filter are you running ? A certain one I need to get ?
@@g3mccotter How long you let the ATF oil inside the engine?
@@mrhighway u ever get this answer ?
@@mrhighway I ran the atf in there for maybe 30 mins idling. Once pressures were good I drove it probably 10 miles next couple days to make sure it was good.
Going to give this a try. Bought a 2011 yukon. Had low oil pressure. 1st changed oil pressure sensor and screen. No effect. Then changed oil pump, oil pressure relief valve, and broken pickup tube o-ring. Oil pressure improved but not where it should be. Oil pressure starts cold at about 30 then drops as it warms. Went to slightly thicker oil resulting in very slight improvement. Always using full synthetic. No ticking, no knocking, no misfires. Also going to try switching to the OEM oil filter (AC Delco) after the seafoam treatment.
This is more a fix if you haven't done all that yet. Haha maybe it will work for you though.
@@g3mccotter what else is there? I have an 08 escalade I just got with no oil pressure, except I have the lifter noise like this guys 2011 yukon, im really not getting any pressure.
So did it work 🤔🧐
I had this same problem, changed the sensor, and sensor filter. It got s little better, then I changed my STP oil filter with a mobile 1 filter, and now it holds about 40 psi while hot.
Nice. Sounds like your filter was grabbing all the gunk from afm causing sludge
@@g3mccotter I started running mobile 1 full synthetic and a k&n oil filter, and changing the oil filter every 2500 miles, and I only run the mobile 1 up to 7500 miles not the 10k it's guaranteed for
@@bmoretrading7295 I run the mobile 1 full synthetic with the k&n oil filter and change the filter every 2500 miles or so.
Yeah. Had the same problem on my 2007 Suburban. 3 times after oil changes at a well known oil change place where they were using Cheap FRAM oil filters to save a buck. I could be driving along and the pressure would slowly drop to zero giving me an alarm. I would put the truck in neutral and shut the engine off for 2 seconds and restart while coasting along. Pressure came back to 40 immediately on restart. Changed to WIX filters (insisted the oil change place install my provided WIX filter) and never had the problem again. Something was breaking down in the filter after 1k miles. Decided to change my own oil after that so I know the quality of the oil and filter. Saw a UA-cam video where they tore apart oil filters to show the quality. FRAM was rated worst and WIX among the best.
Yup. Never use fram
I did this trick. And it seems to work. Will update after a few weeks. I only let mine run with seafoam and tranny fluid for about 30 mins. Then did oil change. 40 psi at idle and 50-60 psi driving 😀
Good to hear
Man I'm so glad you found a possible solution to this. All the other videos I've seen are the exact same, they change the oil pressure switch and say ok that should work. Well not with mine, I changed the pressure switch and the P0521 code keeps coming up. Oil pressure on my dash is good but it still keeps throwing that code. No one that I found explains why
When I using 5w30 oil in my car that code P0521 would come on constantly but when I changed to the oil I was suppose to be using 5w20 oil that code hasn't returned.
@@RandomMind same here, I changed the oil and put in the correct oil for my truck and it hasn't happened since. I did change all the coils, spark plugs, and wires tho because it felt like it was missing but it's running a lot better now.
This happened to me with my 2007 Suburban 5.3 yesterday. Been noticing oil pressure seemed lower and lower. No smoking or noises, no indication it's something major. Oil level fine. Dash says oil life 33%. Using Delco oil filter with Mobil1 5w30 synthetic oil.
Gonna change this sensor and screen then run engine oil flush through it and change oil to see what it does.
Keep us posted
Di you fix it? I just have the exactly same problem on my 07 chevy suburban..what di you do if you already fixed?
@@joguadal72 I ordered parts and stuff for it. Everything I've checked so far points to this being the culprit (it is a known thing on the 5.3 with AFM).
Make SURE you change the screen under the sensor. That screen acts as a filter to screen out the oil before going to the valve lifters. (Some people just say to poke holes in it or whatever - *do NOT do that* trust me!)
@@joguadal72 I ordered parts and stuff for it. Everything I've checked so far points to this being the culprit (it is a known thing on the 5.3 with AFM).
Make SURE you change the screen under the sensor. That screen acts as a filter to screen out the oil before going to the valve lifters. (Some people just say to poke holes in it or whatever - *do NOT do that* trust me!)
@@JenniferFuchek so how’s it turn out?
This worked, saw the sludge come out of her. Back to normal PSI🎉
You saw the sludge come out?
I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 4x4 z71 and it would read 40psi at start then quickly drop to 20psi eventually 0psi when i would first start it in the mornings during cold weather seasons, I always made sure the oil level was correct, first i replaced my oil pressure sensor along with a new screen with it, new oil, oil filter after that I was getting great oil pressure well 2 weeks later my oil psi drops down again. I finally just got the o ring replaced on the oil pick up tube its reading 40psi at idle and 60psi at highway speeds couldn't be happier. I Strongly recommend getting the o ring replace
Yeah I've heard this can be a culprit.
This is exactly what my 09 Silverado is doing. At crank up about 45 psi and gradually falls to 20 psi and pretty much stays there. I had the oil pressure sensor and filter changed. So I’ll have the O ring done next.
Well I replaced the O ring and still had low oil pressure, so I replaced the oil pressure sensor switch again thinking it might be bad, still having low oil pressure. Crank up 40 psi, gradually falls to 20 and stays. Any ideas?
@@peppercombs same here!! Lmk. When you fix it
Well... It's my turn to confirm or deny. Got the exact same issues, Stabiltract warning and all. I get the same 40 PSI pressure that slowly drops to zero until the alarm goes off. It's been 6 months since last oil change due to remote work and moving states. Still got the thicker summer oil in it and even some heavy STP additive due to heavy towing of tandem axle trailer and it's now anywhere from 20 degrees to minus 13 here. So definitely time to change the oil and refresh. I started by putting some motor flush (small amount, 25% of bottle) in with some High Mileage Sea Foam also. That's one of my favorite combos. I'd use pure naptha also if I could find it. I'll keep you posted how this goes. I may have to switch to the ATF + SF combo. I also suspect my oil filter at this point is actually creating a blockage/restricting flow... so looking to replace that and see what change occurs pre and post?
Owned this rig 3 years now. 163K miles on her. This condition struck last weekend for the first time, while on a ski trip. Had to turn around 5 miles out of town and head home to swap out vehicles. That's how serious we took this condition. We thought the motor was going to be toast. So we limped our way back home stopping every couple miles as PSI on hwy dropped to zero, trying to avoid real engine damage. Found out she had a CarQuest Standard Oil Filter for conventional oil, not for synthetic oil, which I paid for (cheap $5 filter, only 5,000 mile protection, truck has 12,000 miles since last oil change, part #R84060). Truck sat all week. So last night, I began dumping some High Mileage SeaFoam and some Motor Flush into the vehicle. Let it run for 2-3 mins... then shut it off. I did this 3-4 times and let it sit over night and most of today in freezing weather. I got to the Oil Change facility here in town, and explained what was going on. I put 1.5 quarts of motor flush in ($9 Walmart)... and let it run for 15+ mins total, turning the car off intermittently (30 mins overall). Pressure was never higher than 20 psi, no matter what I did here. I handed her over and gave the guys my own, new FRAM Synthetic optimized filter ($8 Walmart) and let them change the oil. Truck came out and had 32 psi right away and was holding at idle of 500 rpms. I drove her 50 miles, hwy, right out of the parking lot, after this because I could see she was immediately popping up to 39, 40, 42, 45 psi (normal) and holding and if I'm going to have a problem, I want to know it now. I did put the other half can of Seafoam in the new oil so it continues to clean and will leave it in. Guys, gals... this did the job and I had PSI back immediately after getting that old oil filter off the engine. (A critical step and likely cause of most of the flow restriction) Comparing methods: The ATF fluid is hydraulic fluid, not motor oil, and has detergents in it. The motor flush is full of organic solvents that eat sludge and varnish faster, it's diesel fuel, kerosene, benzene, napthalene and other sludge dissolving solvents. Both are good options. And I feel bad for anyone out there that has been burned by the Dealership misdiagnosing the issue and resorting to thousands in unnecessary and preventable engine repairs. Let's get the word out on these inexpensive solutions. Change your oil filter immediately!! That's the bottom line. Thanks @g3mccotter for making this vid bro! Huge high five, Sir. First round of beer is on me. 😃 Total cost of all fluids, oil change, new filter to fix issue = $150 (reducible to $70 next time). No OEM parts were replaced. Cost of new Engine = $7,000 plus 15-30 days dealer shop time. Do you want to make several months payments on the Dealership General Manager's six figure Ski Boat? (a real thing, I used to work for one of these azz holes) Or save that money and put it towards your kids? You decide.
Update: Solution Confirmed!! This Solution May Be Faster when using Solvent Technology Rather Than Detergent. Total Time to Fix: 90-120 mins Root Cause: Standard Oil Filter Causing most of Blockage, Likely Sludge Build Up due to reduced oil pressure. Resolution: Priority #1, Replace Oil Filter with High Quality FRAM Ultra Synthetic "double media" Filter (FRAM Part XG10060 series for 2008 5.3L V8 Tahoe). Seriously... what's an extra $3 over standard filter?? You're $7,000 Engine deserves this! #2, Treat w/ Seafoam + Motor Flush or SF + ATF to clean sludge from engine and oil pressure sensor and internal screens. Add most of motor flush at oil change station. Don't rev engine or drive without increasing oil viscosity first to get to JiffyLube or Grease Monkey. It ok to go over dip stick max to solve issue. I was 3 quarts high slowly rolling into Grease Monkey. Oil viscosity is what matters most. I did hold idle at
Just had the same issue and this seems to have resolved it. Thanks 👍
Crazy. Good to hear
I would kiss you if I could! Had the exact problem, I did the sensor/screen. Had the same issue after. Did exactly what you did and it fully worked like you said! Thank you
Glad to hear.
After watching your video I added the seafoam and after driving it over an hour and idle for a while it got fix GREAT CONTENT it helped me a lot I had replace the sensor as well and now it’s fixed! Thanks !
Awesome to hear. It's really crazy it worked. I couldn't believe it when my gauge starting going up after hour or so of idling and driving around.
I just had my oil changed last week and my 03 suburban is doing this.. question.. if I put a bottle of that seafoam in it I drive around and or let it run idle for a bout an hour? also my oil level is covering all but the highest marking on dipstick is it gonna be ok to ads that in or would it be too full? just wanted to clarify so i dont fuck anything up ive just really started doing my own work on my truck about 2 years ago..still learning a lot
Bleed the oil pressure sensor, turn on engine and let a little oil come out the outlet on the oil pressure sensor! Easy fix! Replace the oil pressure sensor and it should work!
So take sensor out, start engine, let oil come out then put sensor back in and voila?
g3mccotter that easy had that problem and finally it works like a charm now
I got 2006 trailblazer 5.3l i change the sending units switch and screen filter, and oil gage still dropping down tired of this, any recommendations if your fixed
Just did this today and it worked!
Makes sense, I didn't think of it but I'm going to give it a try. Thx
07 tahoe I changed oil about 2000 miles later started losing all oil pressure like this so I changed filters to a Mobil 1 an problem was fixed. Since then I used Mobil 1 oil filter never had problem again!
I've heard good results from that oil filter
I’m in the process of trying this now. Praying it works
Update: it worked perfectly
same thing happen to my 2013 Chevy Truck Siverado 1500, what i did is Drain the old oil and use a 5 qtrs AFT with the oil fliter in and letting run for 6-8 hour, after drain the ATF and replace the oil fliter and use 15-40 oil with 1 qtrs of AFT and that fix my oil sensor problem. A local Mechanic gave me that instruction Easy Fix i was told
So now you always run it with a quart of atf?
As far as now my 2013 Chevy Silverado is running great, But after a thousand mile I did the Same routine again, a mechanic gave me the instructions on how to do this clean out of any gum build up in the Oil system including Oil Sensor, so hope it works for you as it worked for me
This is happening to me right now. I'm guessing it the sensor but I'll have to see into it. Doesn't lose power doesn't overheat no other problems
My 2013 Chevy Silverado is running Great after I did what the Mechanic had told me to do, It’s been over sometime now driving thousands of miles continuing using the 15-40 oil with the AFT with my Truck having 289g miles on and still running great
My 2013 Chevy Silverado is still running great with no Problem after the Procedure I’ve done with the AFT oil and after,
I’d go for the o ring on the pickup tube. Known common problem with the LS engines.
But that would merritt actually restricting oil flow causing engine damage quickly. Mine never did.
No, I had a split o ring on mine and all it did was slightly reduced pressure. Still did the job, but not efficiently until i replaced it. New pan and oil cooler gasket and no more leaks either. This is in a 180k 07 yukon denali 6.2.
Where's this at??
Damn anybody else see the guy across the street clean build ❤
I have a 2013 Chevy Tahoe 5.3, changed the oil pressure sensor and it stays between 25-30 at idle when when then goes up to 40-60 on acceleration. When I had my 08 Tahoe my oil pressure always stayed at 40 and it never got lower than that other than the car burning the oil. I’m thinking about changing the oil pump next but I’ll try this first because the motor sounds strong, no ticks or anything.
I wouldn't be too worried with that pressure at idle. Using acdelco filters I think helps
Having the same problem on my 07 avalanche, I thought maybe it's because my cluster stopped working. But I'm going to check it out asap
If all those lights and warnings going off if it's not a bad cluster probably. If you're just reading low oil pressure hard to say without diagnosing if it's actually low. If it has afm its probably burning oil and probably killing the engine slowly
What was it?
I have the same thing going on with my 07 Yukon and I'm thinking about doing a AFM-dod delete a delete the check valve in the oil pan
Yeah it's a good call if you plan on keeping it. Probably too late to save that engine though damage is already done.
@@g3mccotter naw it's not damage it runs to good when get ready to start on it I'm going to some videos on UA-cam of it.. right now I'm a mds delete on a 2013 dodge ram hemi 5.7 look me up.
This has happened to me twice. I stopped at a gas station and bought STP oil treatment, it stopped the alarm and brought my oil pressure up from 0 to 20 and I went and got a oil change and everything went back to normal.
5w30 doesn’t last that long, it gets broken down fast. When it gets to thin then you will get no oil pressure. I recommend Lucas oil treatment and add 10w30.
I was using 10w30. This is a much bigger problem I think. As I have oil pressure since I am not getting any ticking or Knocking
@@g3mccotter buenas noches. Tengo el mismo problema con una tahoe 2007. Me pueden ayudar. No hablo ingles
@@g3mccotter I do not speak English. can you help me. I have the same oil pressure problem as the video with a 2007 tahie. I changed the oil bulb twice and I still have the failure when heating low

@@johanaromero4774 todavia nececitas traductor/alluda?
I replaced my oil filter with the oil filter that has the built-in anti drain back valve, plus good quality hi mileage Desox 1 gen 3 oil. Drove the tahoe for awhile. It cleared the low oil pressure warning. I think with the anti drain back valve the oil stays in the engine to keep the oil pressure in acceptable range. My oil pressure is still be at around 10 psi on the hot day and idle at stop, but the low oil pressure light went away. May be a GM design engineer can explain why the oil filter can fix this in my case. By the way the local autopart stores in my area only have one filter I am looking for. I bought the last anti drain filter in my area.
10 psi is too low
All modern oil filters have anti drain and pressure relief bypasses integral to the filter.
Service traction control is your number 7 ignition pack coil
Good to know. That comes up with all sorts of problems though
So in looking into this, I believe that the number on the gauge is a composite of the value on the regular oil pressure sensor on the side of the engine and the sensor with the screen on the top back of the engine. The computer reads these two and creates a composite value that drives the gauge. But it seems to weight the data from the screened sensor higher..and that software routine is the same that calculates how much life is left on your oil. So if there are bits and pieces of gunk in these really dirty engines, they are probably affecting that top sensor. The Seaform/B12Chemtool/ATF routine may be the only want to clean the gunk. What does not make sense is that if you turn off the car, and restart, the PSI immediately returns to 40 PSI. No o-ring issue would explain that. Maybe a gunked up oil pick up screen, or plugged return galleys? Nah, think it is software!
That's interesting. I know a lot of different scenarios led me to not believe this would do anything. I do think its somehow related to the afm problem with these and burning all the oil and gumming everything up in there.
The AFM lifter issue turns out that 5w20 oil is too heavy and combined with the oil gumming causes the AFM lifters to lock in place. Had this happen twice. Once, we ended up replacing all left side lifters. Happened again on the opposite side bank. Added 8 ounces of marvel MO and 6 ounces of B12ChemTool and the lifters unstuck themselves within a few minutes. Has not been a problem since. New 5.3 and 6.0L are spec'd with 0w oils. But that said, the real problem with these engines is the EGR pickup in the pan and the left side rocker cover. Both suck up oil vapor into the intake and coat everything. GM has TSB to solve the pickup issue in the pan but you have to drop the pan. GM redesigned the left side rocker cover twice to eliminate this issue up top. Note: use the dorman part as it is identical and 1/3 the cost. Back to the gauge, when we pulled the lifter on left side, I replaced the sensor and the screen. Both were fine and clean. I never had these silly issues on the old chevy 350 and Pontiac engines!!! One step forward and two back.
One other issue that seems to rear its ugly head is the oil pump bypass valve. I wonder if gunk it jamming this open. How could a vehicle have 4-5 events where pressure went to zero magically come back to full pressure. Only two other places, oil pump high pressure bypass and the oil filter bypass. Maybe we can get a GMC district service rep drunk have him spill all the beans on these engines!
@@WestonWaylandRotary Exactly what I think...
I have an 09 tahoe and my vehicle did something similar. I changed the radiator and the replacement had 2 extra ports that arent used. After this change my system wont pressurize and my oil pressure was sitting on 80 yesterday and now 0 today. Im going to try the sea foam and oil change for the oil pressure issue. I may start with the thermostat for the pressure issue.
Sounds like you got the wrong rad. Or there's an oil cooler you forgot to hook back up to it. Otherwise your oil pressure is most likely not related at all
Always change the sensor first before going through the hassle of dropping pan and fixing o ring
Why?
@@MegaHowtoMan hassle
What If you got the AFM DOD Deleted like i had done and now i have a slight oil leak not from the motor or anything but its from around the back area,Should i still look into this
Yeah you don't want oil leaks. Of you deactivated the dod or afm that helps but often the damage is already done.
Same issue with a 2007 Yukon xl I bought yesterday. Check engine light came on but zero physical symptoms then oil pressure low light and dinging came on and gauge read zero. Changed oil and filter fixed the gauge but not the check engine light. Got it coded at the local parts store it’s saying the sensor is bad. The filters/screens with the sensors are known to clog and throw warning from what I’ve read.
Reset that code probably go away.
If you look at your ground cable from engine/trans to your firewall, it is horribly corroded. (Green) This cable is known to cause all kinds of communication problems with modules. Cure is to run 24 inch cable from the stud where cable is on firewall to the bolt on alternator fixture/wire clamp. You do not have to take the webbed cable off unless you replace it. I am being cheap. You are adding another route for ground. I see your wires that go thru the clamp on alternator bracket are all exposed. Check to see if these wires are chaffed from rubbing on the inside of the clamp. They can chaff with movement of engine. One end is on inner fender well which does not move when engine moves. Can trigger all kinds of codes that have nothing to do with the problem. Bad grounds or grounds that should not be there confuses computers.
Thanks for that tip for sure. Good to know. If I get another I'll look out for it
I need help I did the dod delete on my 2015 5.3 suburban I changed everything from oil pump to lifters camshaft and now that I put the truck back together it has low oil pressure when it warm up what did I did wrong I also strip my valley cover for the dod delete but I still got the valley cover plug to the motor should I on plug it since it doesn't got nothing
I'm not sure. Lots could have gone wrong on reassembly. Hook manual oil pressure gauge up and go from there
This happens to me every time it’s time to change the oil! Same truck too. As soon as I change the oil filter everything goes back to normal... I have no clue why! But I have went through this at least 6 times and every time I change the oil it fixes it
Yeah oil gets dirty from burning up because of the afm and then doesn't register on the gauge.
@@g3mccotter just seemed strange to me because all other vehicles I’ve had could go over oil change mileage as long as oil levels were good. Not the ole Chevy tho! Almost like clock work. Low oil pressure warning every 3000-4000 miles. Funny thing about it is it never shows signs of low pressure other than the gauge and annoying dinging. First time it happened I changed sending unit and used motor flush with no results. Then I just changed the oil to get motor flush out, scratching my head and thinking I may have big problems. Cranked it back up to get it to the shop and BAM! All was good
That works for me as well. I believe its because the oil filter is too small. It literally isn't much bigger than the one on my motorcycle. Obviously it could be something else but I think its related to the size of the oil filter.
I'm having the same issues... QUIT USING CRAP FILTERS.. .I had been going to jiffy lube to get my oil changed, they use CRAP filters... so far, I've changed the oil, or just the filter and it has fixed it every time... but.. it seems to be getting worse.. first time oil life was 90% next time 85% .. then 80... this time 60% going to change the filter and install a WIX filter .. hopefully that will fix it again. Also put seafoam in it and hoping to clean the gunk out.. will run it for 100 miles and change the oil and filter if I get good pressure again. Probably won't be going back to jiffy lube
Do it yourself brother, also try synthetic. These newer motors need it.
There is also a little valve train filter screen down in intake below where sensor is that causes this as well,have only seen a couple vids on this,isnpossie to do using a pick to get it out, but some say is easier to just remove the intake
I replaced the screen filter under the oil pressure switch. Was able to do it with intake on. Hurt my arm but manageable. I think I broke some of the plastic that was in the way but wasn't necessary
Literally just got done swapping my pressure sensor on my 07 Tahoe. No need to remove the intake. Just a little contortion of your hand and some cramping. Took me about 45 mins and that was with stopping to cus at the truck.
I have the same proplem.but I would substain oil pressure untill around 3thousand rpm and pressure would ping from 0 back to 40.i thought it might be the pick up line check the gasket it was good.it turned out to be the oil pressure sensor wasn't all the way plugged n.Now I can do 120 with absolutely no drop on oil gauge.its worth a check if u are having this proplem
For sure. Yeah a unplugged sensor or bad connection would be a nice easy fix
I had just recently had the motor rebuilt.fix that problem.Now today I got to change the oil and they never put the gasket on the oil plug lol.im no mechanic but even I know to do that .have a good one
Happened me twice. LONG story short, changed oil, it was fine. BOTH TIMES!😫🙂
When you change the sensor, slap a manual gauge on it before replacing the sensor and it will give a correct reading. Could be the Guage cluster itself.
Yup good call. Could always be gauge cluster
I have a Chevrolet suburban 2007 5.3L 8v flex. I changed the pressure sensor and the filter 3 times. I changed and cleaning my oil pan and gasket. I changed my oil pump with a high volume one and gasket on the pick up tube. I also changed my CYLINDER DEACTIVATION SOLENOID. The psi the gauge stays strong at 40 and 50 but then drops to 20 psi then 10 psi. It has improved but the pressure still goes down. Any suggestions
10 seems too low at idle. I would check your oil pressure manually since you've done everything. If that is consistent with your gauge cluster go for a compression and leak down. Power seem normal? No engine noises?
It may be the sensor for now, if not a sudden drop in pressure like that would likely be the pressure relief valve in the pump sticking. If you do the pump, or it starts ticking always replace the O-ring seal on the pick up tube, and the camshaft thrust plate (the thrust plate has a built in gasket that seals the lifter gallery). Either of those 2 things will destroy the camshaft if ignored.
Thanks. Yeah I've read about those needing addressed on these. Was this just an issue with the afm from 07 to 10?
Yup going thru the same problem right now as I type this I have 2011 avalanche and the mechanic installed new cam bearings, new camshaft, new crankshaft and crankshaft bearings, new ls7 lifters ,oil pressure sensor, did a DOD delete, new high volume oil pump with new O ring on pick up tube, anyways he forgot to replace the camshaft thrust plate idk why he would forget that but hoping that would solved my low oil pressure issue I’ll give u guys a update when it’s all done …
@@lenny_miller2357so what happened with your problem
Was it the plate ?
Did all kinds of work to bring my 94 chevy (5.0) oil pressure up. It was low at hot idle. Ended up having to replace the crank/rod bearings as the old ones were worn and let too much pressure escape. Seemed to do the trick but it was not a fun job!
Yeah low oil pressure readings on the older platform are not going to be same as once engines got afm
Service traction control has been common in all the suburban videos!
Yeah that stuff starts acting up at the first sign of any issues it seems
Service track is the dod 99% of the time fix that itll fix the service track code my avalanche did that until I deleted the dod and flashed the pcm all is well other than that Oil Pressure going from 20-25 at idle hot but good when driving 40-45 so may have something still going but u remove the dod system trucks will run forever
Seems to be that the #1 plug on my 5.3 fowls out and causes a miss, which causes my stabilitrac traction light to come on with a rough idle. When that happens and the light comes on now, the first thing I check is the #1 plug.
Yup going thru the same problem right now as I type this I have 2011 avalanche and the mechanic installed new cam bearings, new camshaft, new crankshaft and crankshaft bearings, new ls7 lifters ,oil pressure sensor, did a DOD delete, new high volume oil pump with new O ring on pick up tube, anyways he forgot to replace the camshaft thrust plate idk why he would forget that but hoping that would solved my low oil pressure issue I’ll give u guys a update when it’s all done …
Geez I would hope so
so u drove the car with the seafoam and atf for an hr? is it safe?
I have the same problem on my 2011 Chevy Tahoe LT change out my oil pressure sending unit and it still ran same and it became that it was the oil sending unit ring on the oil pan. You have to drop the oil pan and take your pick up tube and it has a rubber seal that goes into the pump. That is bad that’s why you’re losing pressure. It doesn’t show oil pressure Didn’t too much oil air
Soon as I change that out my pressures at about 4550 when I crank it now it’s running fine but it never clicked. Never had a sound on the top cause I was getting enough oil it’s just that it wasn’t holding pressure to show the gauge what I had . Hope that helps you.
Yes this is a pretty likely culprit
I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe I went to leave and run an errand and all the sudden my dash started dinging saying low oil pressure I shut it off got out checked my oil my cap was loose so I tightened it would that cause it? But now my needle is floating between 0-20 but mostly staying at 20
Probably not from your oil cap no. Same issues as so these. Yours has it also it's just called dod or something
New oil pump and pick up tube o ring. New oil pressure sensor and screen. Cold start is 39ish on the pressure gauge and slowly drops to about 15 as it warms up. Idk. Also did an engine flush with motor medic at last oil change and that had no effect. Any clues?
15 at idle on a warm engine is about right for these. Want to see 40+ I believe on loads
Ok bought my 07 Tahoe last month. didn't notice the pressure was low on test drive but engine was really smooth and no check engine light was on. Two weeks later after only driving it on the weekends the check engine light came on. Code was for oil pressure. Did my research and common problems were pressure sensor and oil pump pick up tube o-ring. Did the o-ring first since I figured why not get the hard one done first and sure enough the o-ring was flat, hard and split. On cold start it would idle at 40psi but still dropped down to 20psi once warm and check engine light came back on. Just swapped the sensor and same.
Pick up tube is next. Or just flush it then change oil
@@g3mccotter pick up tube was the first thing I did. Did a flush and changed the oil filter. That seems to have worked
I think my issue is the relief valve is stuck. I never had this problem until I drove through Tennessee and found out about the feature with the automatic downshift in steep hills...
Wait what? Tennessee def has hills. My year didn't have auto downshift...
@@g3mccotter I still haven't fixed the issue but today, I noticed that the oil pressure increases when the engine switches from 8 cylinders to 4, so I definitely think its a valve somewhere or possibly the pick up tube o-ring. FYI, my engine has over 300k on it and I never had an issue until that damn trip to Tennessee...
@@bigseksi5514 my oil pressure increases on downshifts too. The higher the RPM the higher the PSI right?
My 08 Silverado 170k has low Oil psi Around 15psi when its cold.but when it gets hot it holds around 35psi, 40 while driving. Any imput?
Seems like weird oil pressure sensor, or gauge cluster maybe. It should be high when it's cold and get lower after warm
15 is below spec at idle. You may have some internal problems bud. I would start with the sending unit and screen under it and make sure the screen isnt dirty.
Hey I’m having similar problems on 09 suburban, I replaced sensor, did tune up, and new head gasket. I just haven’t tried this method or oil pump,mine have same lights on and does makes a tick noise, also sits around 15/20 psi steady. I want to try this method before trying oil pump or getting new motor where did u pour the atf and seafoam into so I can see if that fixes my problem and will it turn off service traction controls and stabilize links messages off … hope to get a reply soon plz help!!
All in the oil. If your engine has a tick though it might actually be low oil pressure.
I had a similar problem, and after opening the oil pump, I found that the spring was broken
I replaced the springs with a new one, a little longer, and now the oil pressure is 60, and when the car is hot it reaches above 40.
Interesting. Haven't heard of a broken spring on the oil pump yet
I have the exact same problem. Exact! 2012 suburban 5.3 engine. Starts out around 40 lb, ..slowly drops off to zero. Replaced sensor made no difference. Screen was not that dirty and the sensor looked clean. Engine sounds good also but I'm afraid to run it. Just bought the truck and within 120 miles this started. This problem doesn't seem to be addressed so far on You tube. Could be one of many problems viewed so far. Thanks for the video. Will be trying a few things in the next few weeks, maybe get lucky...and will post if I have any luck. Good luck. I'll be watching.
If it doesn't make any noise in top end after an hour of idling I would do what I did here and drive it around a bunch to see if it clears it up like mine did.
Not sure what you mean by "drive it around a bunch". With the ATF fluid and seafoam still in it? Initially mine didn't lose pressure quite as rapidly as your video showed, but took about 8-10 min. driving to get to the dreaded "ding... shut engine down"...just a steady drop off as engine warmed up. Now with ATF and seafoam it is at 40-45 psi cold engine start and will rev up to 50+ shortly after start up 2000-3000 rpm. Warm will be 25-30# after 15 min idle. Revving then up to about 30#. I will try an hour of idling with the stuff still in it. A dealer shop said the black UPF48R oil filter may help. Seems to me that this is kind of cheating the problem, but maybe high mileage vehicles respond to it. Thanks for the reply.
It's the o ring in the oil pick up tube
My burb does this as well..... drove it for 2 hours with the warning dinging at me... changed the oil filter and it would be fine for another 6 months
Change your valve cover to the updated with the square pcv part 264-969
My truck stays at 0 and says oil pressure low turn engine off can I just change the oilfilter and change the oil ???? Whould that fix my problem
Does your engine run for awhile without any ticking, knocking while saying this?
Just changed the Oil Pressure sensor and the screen under it, replaced the pick up tube O ring and gasket. New oil and filter. No oil pressure, oil light comes in after 15 seconds but no engine light. Any suggestions on what to check next?
Could be your gauge cluster. Main question is if it's saying 0 oil pressure does engine start knocking or ticking? If it runs for more than 5 mins and no engine noise it's getting oil pressure. Could also manually check oil pressure
g3mccotter i believe it’s the pump, after running for a few seconds it does tick. I got a oil pump coming in tomorrow.
After replace the pump is it fix problem ? And what is oil pressure now ?
@@bradleyp9123 how did it go? I got mines change about a month ago.. the oil pump. Paid lots of money, I’m back to same problem.
I know it's a pain bit make sure u didn't pinch the o ring. It happens to the best of us. Other than that make sure ur getting oil to the top of motor and if so it may be electronic
I just wanna know if it’s good to mix 5/20 and 5/30 since I read it’s the same oil but a little different, because I just had this problem just yesterday. I checked my oil and it covered 4 of the wholes so I just added a little more. Yesterday I drove it like nothing, and as I’m driving back home the low pressure light popped back up. I’m only 18 and I just got a 2008 Chevy for my birthday and it’s my first car 🙏
Don't want to mix oils. Or run that light weight of one in these
Do you put the seafoam right after a new oil change or right b4 you change your oil?
I put it in with atf before oil change. You could run it after also
Need some help guys. Last night it wasn't on drove my car to work in the morning and it was very icey out and my check engine light came on so after looking around on the dash i noticed my oil pressure gauge is pinned at 0 "IT DOES NOT MOVE AT ALL" just pinned to 0 and my remote start wont work either. 2013 Sierra
Check oil and go from there. If it was colder than usual some things could be stuck and just needs warming up. If you hear ticking or knocking shut it off and be happy your gauge works
I'm having this problem right now. 07 Sierra 1500. Mines lifted and has tons of electrical problems. Wouldnt turn over recently after 2 years.. I guess I had a short with my ground. Mechanic installed ground cables from battery to the body, and to the engine. My oil pressure went from 40 ish to 0 within 2 minutes prior to that. I haven't done anything else to it besides keep driving the truck. Now it went from going to 0 after a few minutes, to being parked for 30 minutes while im typing this and it's chilling idling at 10 psi which is way too low but the sensor hasn't kicked in yet. At first we thought it was the BCM or the starter bcuz it wouldn't turn over. It was a ground short. Then the low oil pressure , watching all you guys videos, im thinking it's the actual fuel pump. All my lights turned on once I fixed the short. But now it's running fine. And the engine still doesn't knock or scratch. But it's literally been idling at 9 psi for 30 minutes now
Sounds like a lot of issues going on. Try and solve the engine lights first that are un related to oil pressure. Sometimes lots of different dash lights is just a bad battery actually. I would replace all battery cables and try a new battery if yours is a couple years old
@@g3mccotter I’m having same issues, the traction control light came on & it’s hard to start. I have to hold the key & the motor turns slow. I believe it’s a bad battery because it’ll start fine with a jump box. Im thinking the battery is the cause if the check engine light with different codes & today low oil but the level is good. I’m also thinking it could be clogged, truck has been sitting a couple of weeks
The stabilitrack and check engine warning with the traction control is from your spark plugs btw, had the same problem. I promise that's all it is 💯
Those warnings go off for different problems actually all sorts of issues will cause those warnings. Mine went away once oil pressure gauge was reading right.
I replaced all my speed sensors and it cleared all my track an abs lights.
I've changed out all my plugs/wires and still have Stabilitrak issue....
@@ericnorth7032Make sure there are no cracks in your air intake, any air sucking in on the engine side of your air sensor can foul up your computer because it doesn't know what is going on. Especially around the air chambers (resonators) that branch off your air intake. I found a hole and my truck went from sounding like it was running on 7 cylinders to purring like it was brand new.
@addisoncorley2244 do you drive fast, is why you changed your speed sensors? I ask this because I push my suburban to its highest mph all the time, and I have ALL of the above mentioned warning lights on, on my dash.
My oil pressure dropped to 0 pressure, it was the oil pressure switch on my 2009 Tahoe. Mechanic charged me $165.00 to replace it.
Might be more than that. See how long it goes without issues
Wow... Talk about frustrating... Watch this video while in your Tahoe having the same issue. LOL. The combo of my trucks alarm & the alarm in the video will make you want to pull your hair out.
I replaced the sensor But didn't realize there was a metal screen filter under it. Hoping that fixes it.
Probably a much deeper underlying issue. Really need to determine if you're getting actual 0 oil pressure like the gauge says.
09 z71 5.3 Cold start 42-45 plus psi At idle. After 5 minutes settles at 40-42 at idle and normal driving. After running for 20 minutes, the oil pressure gauge drops to around 20-25 when at idle Back up to 40-42 under acceleration. New oil pump and sending unit. Still does it. Engine is smooth quiet and strong Is this normal on 2nd gens? My previous 02 4.8 and 00 5.3 held 40-42psi all the time. Never dropped
This seems low, however most of mine with afm were similar. Under load even after heated up it should be more like 50psi or so I would say and then 40 for light load and idle. Check your levels often, I know mine from burning oil would get low and my pressure would do different stuff. Get a manual gauge on it and run through same scenarios, it could be your gauge cluster also. I think my 6.2 always had 40 psi and then around 50 or 60 at load, 6.2 didn't have afm for those years...
@@g3mccotter thank you. Yeah I’ll use a manual gauge to test I’ll keep trouble shooting. Still need to disable the afm also. At about 180kmiles should we still continue to use conventional 5w30?
@@dailys1979 Up to you and driving habits and conditions. If oil pressure is good I don't see why not.
Same I did the dod delete but replaced everything but saw a hack to add shims to the oil pump and slightly crush the valve on the oil pan to increase pressure and claim to neve rave an issue after I may try but no issues so I may stick with it until I have problems also someone said if u remove the dod system 10 psi and up will give u no issues as the dod system needs at least 27 psi to close the secondary lifters fast enough so hope that helps 🍻 also a buddy that works at the gm dealer says to run 10w30 up to 10w50 and call it a day I run 10w30 dully synthetic with lucal synthetic additive and no issues other than the pressure getting to that 20 psi range at idle but driving is fine 40-45 and 50 cold start
What should start up oil pressure gage be at? 5.3 12' tahoe
Chevy states you need to remove the screen from that sensor/switch they plug up, im having similar problem after i replace that switch, I was told the O rings in the pump get war out
Yeah could be a number of issues. The afm on these is broken and cause oil consumption which is the real problem
Have a 6.0 in a express van. Sometimes it has zero pull pressure at startup, and stays at zero until you rev it a bit. Then pressure jumps up good and stays good until you shut it off. Changed the pickup tube ring and problem still there. Any ideas?
Get a manual oil pressure gauge on it. Could just be your cluster.
@@g3mccotter when it doesn't show pressure, the engine seems to knock more. So I don't think it's a cluster/gauge issue.
@@skliros9235 ever find out?
@@20tea . The problem all the sudden disappeared. Not sure if it's due to the warmer weather or what...
@@skliros9235 Maybe it's running poor due to a leak in the intake manifold gasket. Usually poor operation in colder weather, but warmer weather the gasket is more flexable and allow a better seal. That's my guess anyway.
My 6.0 does this and it fresh out of the machine shop? At first sensor read nothing so I replaced it and now I'm getting this?
Did you replace screen under sensor? Maybe just run without it.
Check it manually with a gauge, could also be gauge cluster
@@g3mccotter no screen
Did you add the sea foam and atf to your oil or did you put the sea foam in your gas tank
Both in the oil
I rebuilt my engine on my 2007 Cheve Avalanche . Went through the breakin period changed oil at 500 miles , then drove another 1800 miles , then gauge dropped to zero , and stays on zero . Engine runs fine no knocking or ticking . I have replaced oil sensor still zero . Checked oil pressure at the side of block near oil pump , I have 45 psi there , and thats where I am . Any advice on what to check next ?
If that has afm that could be your problem. Or your gauge cluster. Could be the screen under the sensor. Also the pickup screen on the oil tube in the pan I've heard gets clogged
if you have 0 oil pressure at all times, it might be time to pull the intake and check the harness to the oil pressure sensor. I've recently worked on 3 different vehicles withing the last 6 months with the 5.3 and 6.0 that have had an issue with rodents chewing up the wiring. Not too bad of a repair, just not enough room to repair the wiring without removing the intake. Good luck!
@@MrVjimmeye Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I believe the only wiring under the intake (on my 02 Avalanche) is for the two knock sensors. I do agree with always checking the wiring connections. I wish I knew there was a small filter under my 5.3L oil pressure sender. (That was a harder job than I thought it would have been). My issue was possibly the socket that I was using though. (Standard deep 1/2 drive Snap on.
im having the same issue with my 07 Avalanche. But at sustained speeds over 60 mph the pressure gauge shoots up past 80 and the low oil pressure chime goes off with the flashing light
@@Okiesquatch I found out what was wrong with my Avalanche . The number 4 cam bearing came out of its area, thats what caused it to loose oil pressure. The machine shop that installed it did a shit job on installing it. so I had to take the engine back out and take it to them to fix. Now i have been 6000 miles and no problem .
How long did you leave the seafoam and transmission fluid in the engine?
Did you change oil after?
Probably 20 miles. Yeah change oil and filter after.
I've got the same story and what I'm going to do is change the oring on my pickup tube
Hopefully that solves it
My chevy 2009 suburban does the same but mine has the knocking sound from the engine any idea wat that means?
It means your gauge is accurate and your engine needs replaced.
I have a 2008 Chevy suburban LT I wanted to ask anybody in you when you driving do the oil pressure gauge supposed to be moving up and down every time I accelerate when I'm pressing the gas my oil gauges move up and down what do that mean is that normal ??? Because the car lot where I got the suburban from said that's normal ??
Yeah when you have a load the oil pressure should go up
Hello!
I’m having the same problem with my 2012 Suburban. Changed the oil pressure sensor 2 months ago with a autozone part. Then it got low pressure again. Replace it again and same day got the check engine light again. Scanner detected same code oil pressure. This time I replaced it with original part from Chevy dealer. Oil pressure is still low. I’m going to try that cleaner you used. How much did you pour into the oil of each?
Followed the instructions on seafoam and then a quart or so of atf
@@g3mccotter Okay still haven't tried it yet. Will do so. I use synthetic oil will that be an issue with the ATF and Seafood? I wonder if the place that did my oil change used a different oil than it has been using previous. Or just a coincidence that got oil change on 3/5 and got the low oil pressure on 3/10 five days laters after I originally replaced the oil pressure sensor in January.
Hey man I just recently having the same problem but I’m in Alaska so the engine doesn’t turn bc it takes too much power for it to warm up the engine but I too had to sane rocking noise through out the summer and yesterday morning when it gave out on me 11-7-22 when car gave out on me
Sounds like your engine seized
So a quart of atf and what seafoam to get I wanna try this before I go pay my buddy to do a pickup tube oring
There's only one seafood for cleaning engines
Does the oil pressure switch have a filter? My 2013 Sierra 5.3L does, about to see how dirty it is today, OP staying around 22psi past week
Yeah there's a little screen filter below oil pressure sensor you can get out with a small curved pick after the sensor is out. Careful.
@@g3mccotter I will be using 10mm bolt threads to remove safely without damaging it, so I can clean and keep as a spare
I heard its the cam bearings
I have a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Lt. I've changed the oil pressure sensor 3 times and filter screen. The check engine light still comes on after driving around 30-40 miles. It struggles with power going up hills on the freeway. Oil pressure doesn't go all the way to 0 and it never tells me the oil is low. A couple of mechanics told me my oil pump is fine so I don't know what to do. Should I try your method before dropping the oil pan to check the O ring❓
Struggling with power and low oil pressure sounds like your engine is on its way out.
@@g3mccotter it's pretty reliable and only has 78,000 miles on it. It only struggles with acceleration while driving up steep hills on the freeway. Engine runs smooth, doesn't overheat or smoke.
Next you should show how to fix the stabilitrak blinking light
That goes away with everything else. It pops up when other lights turn on. Even a low battery will make that light illuminate
How long do you leave the atf in there? Do you run it or just let it idle?
I drove it around for an hour or so. Once the oil pressure was good is probably all that's needed before an oil change.
Did you replace the filter under the oil pressure sending unit? They are known for clogging up and the oil can't pass through and needs to be replaced when you replace the sending unit.
I did replace it
What was the main problem? How did you fix it. Great video info
Oil sludge clogging up sensors to dash. Clean and flush then oil change with new filter
So you are at good pressure all the time now
I’m gonna try this
Had this issue on my 07 Tahoe. Replaced oil pressure sensor, that did not solve the problem. Ended up dropping oil pan and replacing oil pick up tube o-ring. Problem solved. While you have the pan off make sure and replace oil pressure relief valve.
Good call
I have an update: I don't have a problem with my oil pressure anymore, the check engine light doesn't come on either. I went to AutoZone, changed the oil and filter only using gm recommended oil and filter, and I also have only been using premium gas. The oil pressure gauge goes from approx. 21 @ idle, to 41 when I'm on the highway. I've learned this is a sensitive engine, I know this won't help everyone but maybe it'll help someone else.
That's good information. The ac delco filter is always what I used, as far as oil it varied. Premium gas is interesting. I can't help but think running e85 for a few tanks would help also then change fuel filter after.
@@g3mccotter well I also replaced all the coil packs with ac delco, originally I had a code pop up for cyl 2 misfire and it's running smoother now. I get one thing accomplished and something else needs replaced. My main focus now is my key fob works when it wants to. I replaced the battery and that didn't help, I replaced the key fob and that didn't help, I even tried putting 2 batteries in place of the 1 key fob battery and that didn't help. I think I've narrowed it down to the keyless remote entry module but the dealership wants $300 for the part and another $120 to program it. I found a video on UA-cam on how to get around that so, yea I'm pretty frustrated but I'm getting there.
@@somanynamesilltrythis0180 bcm?
@@dustinrhodes1335 I replaced the key fob module and it's been working since.
How much sea foam do you add? Do you still add the 6 quarts and then sea foam?
1 bottle of sea foam. These engines all burn oil with that afm so they're never full of oil unless you just filled it. But don't overfill your oil
I made a hole in the screen works fine. had problem once with mobile one oil filter don't use them anymore.
You made a hole in the filter screen below the oil pressure sensor? Or a hole in your oil filter?
I made it in the screen below Oil Sensor
@@g3mccotter its your problem fixed? I got the same problem
@BARKIM ENERGY to me wouldn't do nothing because with hole or not its the same compression will detect the sensor, my opinion
I have a 2014 Tahoe I replace the cam and lifters and oil pump I got it on eBay for cheap I put everything together and the oil pressure is a 20 but when it gets hot goes to 0
That's not good. I thought they had afm sorted by those years. Why did you replace?